MITERED BORDERS Here is one of my favorite ways to border a quilt, especially if I have multiple borders, or want the print or stripe to "turn the corner" and frame the quilt, like a picture frame! In this technique, the border strips are first sewn together and measured, the mitered angles are pre-cut, and then the borders are stitched to the quilt. This "cut first" method of adding Mitered Borders creates even, accurate borders that lie flat every time! BORDER STRIP SETS I'm making a quilt that uses three borders. Since I'll be mitering the corners, extra fabric must be added to each border length. To calculate how long to cut the strips for the inner border, I'll measure the quilt in three places, then average those measurements (see the previous post). Then I'll take the quilt measurement and add 2 times the width of the border strip, plus a couple more inches for good measure. My inner border strips are cut at 2-1/4" wide. 2 x 2-1/4" = 4-1/2". So I'll add 4-1/2" plus another 2" to the measurement of the quilt. I cut my border strips from selvage to selvage. When necessary, I piece strips together end to end to get the right measurement. I'm generous with this measurement because I don't want to be short when cutting the 45-degree angle. If the quilt is square, cut 4 equal-sized inner border strips. If the quilt is rectangular, repeat the calculations for the other length. Cut 2 equal strips for the top and bottom borders, and 2 equal strips for the side borders. For the next border, I start with the previous border measurement and then add 2 x the width of that border strip plus a little more for good measure. I'd repeat this process for each round of borders, always fudging on the generous side so I have enough fabric to make the diagonal cut. Then, I sew each set together in order. Match the centers of each strip, then sew the strips together using 1/4" seam allowance. Press seams toward the outer border. Make 4 Border Strip Sets. Now, let's get these borders sewn to the quilt top. SUPPLIES * Finished, pressed quilt center * Pieced Border Strip Sets (see above) - one for each side of the quilt * 24" ruler with a 45-degree marking, another small ruler for marking * FrixionTM pen or other removable fabric marker * Rotary Cutting equipment INSTRUCTIONS 1) MEASURE THE QUILT. For quilt side borders, measure the quilt from top to bottom in a few places but not at the edge where the quilt can stretch. Take an average of your measurements then subtract two seam allowance widths. If sewing with 1/4 inch seam allowances, subtract 1/2 inch. This is your LENGTH MEASUREMENT. Write that number down for reference. For the quilt top and bottom borders, Repeat to calculate the WIDTH MEASUREMENT, also subtracting 1/2" from that measurement. Write the number down. 2) MARK BORDER SEGMENTS. Fold each pieced border set in half to find the center. Finger-press, pin, or mark with a removable marker such as a Frixion Pen. Working on one edge at a time, position the pieced border unit wrong side up with the inner border toward you. Refer to the recorded length measurement and divide that number in half. Begin measuring from the center mark toward the border end. Measure an equal amount on each side of the center mark, and draw a small line at that point. Make another mark exactly 1/4" from the inside raw edge of the border strip set making a little cross-hatch marking +. Re-check the measurement by measuring from one cross-hatch point to the other. This is correct if it is the same as your quilt measurement minus 1/2". Repeat for each border strip set. 3) CUT THE MITERED ANGLES. Lay out the border strip, wrong side up, with the inner border closest to you (see ↑ diagram). Align the ruler on the border strip, and slide the ruler until the 45-degree mark on the ruler is straight along one edge of the border unit and the long edge of the ruler intersects the cross-hatch mark. Draw a line along the edge of your ruler. This is your STITCHING line. Scoot and slide the ruler 1/4" toward the end of the border unit and draw another line. This is the CUTTING line. Do not cut until both ends have been measured, marked, and measured again to double-check, then cut on the cutting line angles using a rotary blade and ruler. 4) STITCH BORDERS TO THE QUILT. First, mark the corners of your quilt top. Measure 1/4" in from each edge at the corners to mark another little cross-hatch +. This will match up with the mark on the border strips. Push a PIN through the center of the marks to match up and anchor the two pieces, then insert another pin adjacent to the anchor pin to secure the layers. Remove the anchor pin, then continue to pin along the length of the quilt. matching centers and easing if necessary. Stitch from mark + to mark +, using 1/4" seam allowance. Backstitch at each start and stop. 5) REPEAT steps 1 through 4 to measure, mark, cut, and stitch the remaining borders to the quilt, one at a time, in any order. 6) STICH MITERS. Fold the quilt diagonally in half, bringing the raw edges of the quilt top right sides together. I usually pin this in place to prep for the final seam. Match the border strip seams and pin the miter-cut edges together. Stitch, using 1/4" seam. Begin at the inner corner, at the + mark. Take one stitch, then back-stitch to lock the stitches at the mark. Continue stitching to the outer edge, then back-stitch again at the end. 7) PRESS mitered seams open, and press the border seams toward the outer border. This will produce pretty accurate borders with a very neat miter. Give the quilt a final press and it's ready to quilt! Starflowers Whether you use this border application when you want your print to turn a corner and frame the quilt center, or use it as a method to ensure the quilt lays flat, it will produce a lovely finish! ~ Deonn