I learned from the headnote of Maneet Chauhan’s Saag Paneer recipe in 'Chaat' (written with Jody Eddy, from which this recipe is adapted) that “saag means any dish made with leafy greens, not just spinach.” She goes on to explain that she whips up this dish at her home in Nashville when she wants a fortifying nutritional reboot. Use the recipe as a blueprint, she suggests, using only spinach, if you like, or “adding in as many greens as you can get your hands on.” She suggests collards, carrot tops, beet greens, chard or bok choy leaves. “The possibilities are endless,” she writes, “and it’s a fantastic recipe if you cook from a desire to eliminate food waste. All those vegetable tops have a home” with the recipe. Chauhan also suggests swapping out the paneer for feta or other salty, firm cheese. I’m not a huge fan of what feta does in saag. In fact, while store-bought paneer is OK in the dish, if you make home-made paneer and use that, it’s absolutely spectacular.