ebony limed buffet, via 1stdibs The last few years I have been getting more requests to "do something" with old furniture pieces, adding ornament, refinishing wood, repairing gilding, etc. I love working on furniture and the special challenges each piece presents. "before" orange varnished oak One of the hardest things to work with is bright orange oak --- a tough one because of the assertive grain among other issues. Oh yes, you can fill it and paint it, but why not find a way to work with it? In this age of cheap laminate furniture, solid wood is something to be celebrated! One project I had recently I took my inspiration from a midcentury piece of cerused oak, also known as limed oak. Inspiration: 1943 Paul Frankl limed oak dresser, at 1stdibs. In the sixteenth century this finish was created to help deter insects and rot in oak beams and paneling, by filling the grain with lime or lead-white and wax, but after a while it became a fashionable way to lighten up and enhance the the look of the wood. Cerused oak finishes were also fashionable in Art Deco and midcentury interiors for furniture, floors, cabinetry, and paneling, and is now once again very much on trend. Note: I am not talking about the pickled "slimy pink" whitewash that was all the rage in the 1980s. A good cerused finish shows the grain in contrast to the rest of the surface. High contrast between the wood and the grain is a really effective look. Please note this is not a technique useful for any kind of soft wood (pine, cedar, redwood, etc.) nor do I advise trying this on any kind of plywood or veneer. Inspiration: circa 1950 James Mont bench in ebony limed oak. I found many instructionals for liming wood on the internet but none with pictures. I like pictures! So I decided to share the process of transforming this orange varnish oak piece into something more fabulous and moderne looking. How to Make a Cerused Oak Finish: Apply Citristrip liberally. 1. Make samples! Don't do this directly on a piece you care about. Always test an area or get some scrap wood to try out your materials! 2. Strip and clean: First, we need to strip off that varnish. I like Citristrip for this kind of thing. Let it sit for at least a half hour then scrub in the direction of the grain with a stiff stripping pad or brush. raising the grain with a brass brush Once you have removed all of the varnish, rinse the wood thoroughly with water. 3. Raise the Grain While the wood is still damp, scrub lightly with a brass brush. Brass will not discolor the wood nor be too rough. If you are starting with raw wood, simply get it wet and scrub it a bit to raise the grain. Rinse thoroughly, then let dry. 4. Light Sanding After the wood is dry, lightly sand to smooth out the top, and get all the dust and bits off with steel wool and/or stiff bristle brush. You should then have a very clean oak surface with pronounced grain pattern. Clean oak with deep grain pattern 5. Dye the Wood Black Make sure your wood is dry, and let's get some color on it! Do not use "stain." Stain will absorb into the softer parts of the wood more than the rest of it. Instead you want to dye it. Apply the dye with a brush, rag, or pad ebonized oak Aniline dye will soak into all the wood evenly without leaving any kind of residue. You may get it in powder form - like raw pigment but much finer ground - to dissolve in water or denatured alcohol. Aniline dyes tend to be opaque, leave no lap marks, and dry quickly. There are also pre-mixed "super penetrating" dyes that use acetone as a vehicle and are very effective. If you buy this kind of thing, please read the MSDS carefully, and wear the proper protection. In some cases you need 2 applications if you want to get a good solid color. *****Note: In this demo I used a dye that I had on hand, but check out this tutorial on how to make your own inexpensive iron acetate to ebonize wood. This natural option for ebonizing wood uses a solution made from steel wool and vinegar, and is an extremely effective and affordable way to blacken the oak.****** 6. Seal the surface: At this point what we have is an evenly dyed, fairly matte, and absorbent surface. It needs to be sealed mainly to make it a bit slicker, which will make the following steps easier. tinting some amber shellac to a clear black Shellac is perfect for this as it will not build up or fill the grain, and it dries quickly. And if the shellac is tinted with a drop of black (or the same color as the dye underneath), it will add to the depth of the finish. In addition to keeping the color from migrating into the wax, the shellac makes it easier to lightly wipe the liming off the surface while leaving it in the grain. Remember too much tint will slow the drying time of the shellac and add volume, so use just few drops. Apply one or two thinned coats of shellac to your surface and allow to dry thoroughly. "liming wax" my home-made mix of wax paste and whiting 7. Liming: Liming wax is available pre-mixed but I made my own by mixing clear microcrystalline wax and whiting (chalk). You can also use white powdered pigment or lime powder mixed into wax paste. Make sure the wax paste you use is a type that will dry fairly hard, and does not turn yellow. filling the grain with liming wax Rubbing the wax into the grain and removing excess Cover the whole surface, use a liberal amount of liming wax and push it into the grain with steel wool or a soft cloth. Immediately wipe off the excess with a soft cloth. Sealing the surface with clear wax Let dry thoroughly. You can repeat the liming if needed, or go straight to sealing. 8. Seal the finish To seal this finish you need only add another layer or two of clear wax, and buff. Microcrystalline wax is made with low odor mineral spirits and dries quickly and quite hard and impervious. finished surface! Options: I have achieved this look using paints and acrylic finishes, but I have to say using more traditional materials makes this far easier and the finish has more depth. It feels very smooth to the touch and is quite durable as a furniture finish, and very easy to maintain. You may also try this finish with different colors. And obviously, the nicer the grain of the wood, the more appealing the finish will look. Lynne Rutter Studio

A beautiful and very well crafted black and cream cerused oak cabinet with from Paris. The original interior plaque displays a French cabiniet maker, the hardware is antiqued brass and the interior a solid quarter sawn natural oak with 4 interior shelves

Every year I have written a post about kitchens. One year I wrote about all-white kitchens. Last year I wrote about Greige (grey/beige) kitchens, and this year I'm writing about my new love, cerused French oak kitchens! 1 - source Cerused means that the oak floor/cabinet has lime or wax applied into the grain of the

Cerused Oak Dining Table

About Stunning cabinet by James Mont. It is finished in a glamorous black cerused oak, and the small pedestals at each end have a gilded carved bamboo motif.

Cerusing is a wood finishing technique that emphasizes the natural character of grain in wood. This is also called a “limed finish” because of the white liming wax or diluted paint used in modern cerusing techniques. A cerused wood finish mutes the original color of the wood and greatly emphasizes the wood’s natural grain and texture. It’s used in a variety of applications such as furniture, chests, cabinets, cabinetry, and even light fixtures.

We get asked a lot about how to achieve the beautiful oak finishes seen on Instagram and Pinterest, and recently broke each finish down in our Ask A Cabinetmaker Facebook group, so wanted to be sure to post here as well. While it isn't important for the homeowner to know exactly how to achieve each finish, being able to identify the characteristics of each will help when discussing finish options with your cabinetmaker.(Design credit: The Lifestyled Co)Natural FinishesLet's start with the simple

Every year I have written a post about kitchens. One year I wrote about all-white kitchens. Last year I wrote about Greige (grey/beige) kitchens, and this year I'm writing about my new love, cerused French oak kitchens! 1 - source Cerused means that the oak floor/cabinet has lime or wax applied into the grain of the

French parchment and cerused oak cabinet, circa 1940s.

Cerused oak cabinets are always in style. Keep reading to discover how to properly execute a kitchen or bathroom remodel with cerused oak cabinets.

About Designed by Simon Stewart for Masterpiece 2019, the Plexus Cabinet combines black cerused with tessellated selenite inlaid into the doors and top. Simply finished internally with two cerused oak shelves. The doors have an integrated finger notch, removing the need for separate handles. This cabinet is an example of the work we do with more unusual materials for creating our bespoke and customised furniture. We can produce any size of cabinet in a variety of finishes. Please look at our other listings for inspiration or contact us for more details.

About This absolute statement piece of a modular bookcase refinished in gorgeous pink cerused oak is by Lou Hodges, designed and produced in California in the 1970s. You can configure this modular set in so many ways, also we have additional sections and shelves if you are looking to combine more pieces into something two or even three times larger. Lou Hodges has become such a collectible designer in the past decade, as 1970s California Modern design has surged in demand and value. This bookcase, refinished in a beautiful pink ceruse, will bring some rock and roll vibe into any room. Consider using as a wall unit, a stand alone room divider, a bookcase or display cabinet or even as an entertainment storage system. Great for your collection of records, books, ephemera, family VHS tapes, or anything you wish to display on probably the most stylish wall unit you could imagine. There are many statement pieces out there, but if you want something truly unique for your client that no one else has - this could be that one thing you don't want to let slip away to your competition. This cerused pink room divider cabinet by Lou Hodges would work great in a Post-Modern, Mid-Century Modern, Space Age Mod, Scandanavian Modern or Danish Modern home or penthouse apartment but could also look fantastic in a Contemporary or Zen / Minimalism room. Also consider mixing it up in a Traditional, Transitional, Hollywood Regency, Classical or Art Deco room with a splash of juxtaposition. Would also be an apt choice in a commercial project such as a hotel lobby lounge or members club, creative design studio or high-rise executive office. MEASUREMENTS: Each Section (2): H 80" x W 34" x D 18" Combined with shelves in the center: H 80" x W 94" x D 18" *Height of the cabinets: 47" and 26" *Cabinets can be adjusted however they must be unscrewed and then screwed back in again. They are not as easy to remove as the shelves are but they can be removed and reattached in a different position if needed. CONDITION: Excellent restored condition, ready for immediate use.

About Majorelle deco cerused oak game dining table Mid-Century, France, 1930s-1940s Beautiful game table that has two positions. The side portions pull-out to make room for leaf that extends the table. This table is in excellent vintage condition and can be used as a dining table or a game table. Sold with the chairs or separately. Table is stamped Majorelle. Measure: Without the leaf Length 32 inches Depth 39.5 inches Height 30 inches With the leaf 69.5 inches Depth 39.5 inches Height 30 inches. In February 1901, Majorelle became one of the founding members of the École de Nancy, alternatively known as the Alliance provinciale des industries d'art, which was a group of artists, architects, art critics, and industrialists in Lorraine who decided to work in a collaborative fashion, and predominantly in the Art Nouveau style. They, headed by Gallé (until his death in 1904, and thereafter by Victor Prouvé) did this for several reasons, chief among which was to ensure a high standard of quality of work in the French decorative arts, of which Lorraine artists were the chief producers at the time. Majorelle was one of the vice-presidents of the group from the outset, remained so throughout the existence of the École de Nancy, and was certainly considered one of the group's leaders. For the most part, he and the other members worked to promote the work of Lorraine decorative artists through their advocacy of the establishment of a school for industrial arts, their participation at major exhibitions (as well as organizing their own shows), and through their collaborative efforts on individual art pieces and buildings, almost all of which were in the Art Nouveau style, and which helped produce to some extant a unity among the art and architecture produced by Lorrainers. Majorelle was consistently one of the internationally renowned figures of the group who could always be found at any show at which the group exhibited. His connections with the Parisian art circles also helped assure the renown of Lorraine artists in the French capital. The École de Nancy, however, was often in short supply of funding, and the formal artistic cooperation among its members slowly seemed to disintegrate during the First World War.

Every year I have written a post about kitchens. One year I wrote about all-white kitchens. Last year I wrote about Greige (grey/beige) kitchens, and this year I'm writing about my new love, cerused French oak kitchens! 1 - source Cerused means that the oak floor/cabinet has lime or wax applied into the grain of the

Once a couple in the entertainment industry bought their starter house in a Los Angeles canyon, they knew they wouldn’t sell it until they were