Runway Ralph Lauren Fall/Winter 2012-2013 RUNWAY, COUTURE COLLECTIONS AT COOL CHIC STYLE FASHION Fashion news, street style, models, backstage, accessories. (Previous: Runway) Let’s keep in touch! Bloglovin / Instagram / Twitter / Tumblr / Facebook / Pinterest
I just finished reading "The Just City" by Jo Walton, and I would very much recommend it. Now why, might you ask, would a story about someone realizing Plato's ideal of a city state, relate to the Attire language? Because we deal both justly, and unjustly, in how we attire ourselves. How we choose to present ourselves to the world is predicated largely on how our culture imagines we should be. Regardless of how individual we claim ourselves, we are informed and affected by the culture of which we are a part. So, we bring onto our bodies the imagery, shapes, colors and proportions that best express the dominant cultural aesthetic of the time we inhabit. The hipster dudes of the San Francisco Mission District are expressing less of themselves, than they are of the dominant cultural paradigm, though if you challenged them on it they would deny you. And those who frequent the Walmarts of the country are also responding to a cultural paradigm, just a different one from that which is considered to be fashionable or hip. And both are equally valid in their own sphere of influence, though we decry the Walmart people, without considering their lives, or world. Unfair, that. So what I'm getting at here is the desire on my part, at least, to try for a just sartorial city. I want a place where people can express what they wish to, without fear of dismissal, or fierce negativity. We spend so much of our time judging people harshly for their choices. Why? Mostly we bolster our own sagging egos by that. Strengthen your own ego, and you don't need to diss others choices. To that end I will say this. Own your style. Own it proudly, honestly, and with strength. These are the visual words you give to the world, MEAN them. They are your truth, so say it out loud, and without equivocation. Say it, because its who you are. Say it, because its your heart, mind, and spirit out there on the line. Say it, because your reality is all you have to give to the people who encounter you, and they deserve your truth. If at the end of any day, ever, the ideal is to communicate with each other some facet of who we are, then by all means tell your truth right at the start. You may never have another chance. This language I call Attire has seemingly endless numbers of words to use. Learn the language, and use it. The world wants to know who you are.
female dandy.
Dr. Andre Churchwell in Central Park, Oct 20, 2012 Well look who came to visit right before the big storm - before all the leaves were blown away? Why it was Dr. Churchwell, of course! He could be called the flaneur of Central Park here. Autumn in New York, why does it seem so inviting? The song by Vernon Duke performed by Ella Fitzgerald is our soundtrack today.... What I most enjoy about Dr. Churchwell's well developed style is that he's bold with color and comes up with the most wonderful combinations...and he has so much fun with it. It takes a creative eye to see color this way. Clothing notes: Hat: custom made pinch crown pork pie styled after Fred Aistaire Suit: bespoke maroon window pane by Len Logsdail, in a hacking style with turn back cuffs and slanted pockets Shirt: custom shirt from Turnbull & Asser Tie: Drake's from FM Allen in Nashville Pocket Square: Drake's for Alan Flusser Vest: with lapels in suede Shoes: Northampton by Stephen Kempson Glasses: Ralph Lauren
There was a point made by the menswear style writer G. Bruce Boyer that, above all, clothes should be comfortable. I don't remember where I read that though. I myself have often made the mistake of desperately trying to get a slender line on my body (given that I am quite out of shape) or that I would wear shoes that were too narrow for the bridge of my foot to the point of discomfort. It is my opinion that when we sacrifice comfort for the sake of style we are diminishing our individuality because we are effectively telling those that walk past us that we are willing to do anything to look good, to the point that it is unnatural. And to be natural, means to be at ease with oneself, to flow with the nature around you. You can't do that if you are too stiff in your jeans. You can't do that if your shoulders can't move in your jacket. Which is all the more reason that G. Bruce Boyer's statement holds true - there's no point in having beautiful clothes if they make you feel uncomfortable. The elegance of the Golden Era of the tuxedo and those photos of the sartorial splendour of the inter-war period (think Fred Astaire) often show men wearing pants that look over-sized for the wearer. Initially when Dandy Wellington came past my Studio the other week I thought the same thing. Until you see him tap dance. Then you realise that his trousers are cut to give him room to move and a freedom of movement you won't find in modern tailored clothing. His shoulders in his jacket also seemed to offer the same freedom. Only his collar seemed to be somewhat snugly fit. It makes sense, that as an entertainer in a jazz band, you can't play an instrument, dance or sing without using your body to swing. It would be inelegant to be watching something as flowing as jazz with an entertainer performing short staccato movements with his arms and legs. For 2017, taking style cues from Dandy Wellington, my aim is to not pursue silhouette as aggressively and opt more for comfort. If it's comfortable, you will wear it more. If it's comfortable, you will wear it in as many seasons as possible. If it's comfortable, you won't ever want to throw it out. This year, give yourself some room to swing. Dandy is wearing the Le Noeud Papillon 'Rory' bow tie above, and below the bow tie 'Guillaume'.
They're known as quaintrelles.
Spigato, tweed, principe di Galles: i corposi tessuti nati per il menswear ben si adattano a una femminilità sofisticata, intellettuale e ironica. Ma anche (diversamente) sexy
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