Fun Macramé Angel DIY Tutorial + Video
Might have just made a biblically accurate angel tree topper
A few girlfriends came over this week for a Christmas craft night. A couple of us had seen book page angel wings and it seemed like a fun project to do
Please read the entire page carefully before you buy! It is NOT a kit, floss and fabric NOT included Premium counted cross stitch chart. Stitches: 200w x 400h Finished Size : 14 count: 14.3” X 28.6”; 36.3 cm X 72.6 cm 18 count: 11.1” X 22.2”; 28.2 cm X 56.4 cm 22 count: 9.09” X 18.2”; 23.1 cm X 46.4 cm Color: 90 (charted for DMC floss); uses solid floss colors, All stitches are full Stitches. No half stitches or back stitching. Black & White PDF electronic Pattern chart with Symbols. Picture shows stitched results, not original art. You can download your pattern immediately after the payment. DISCLAIMER: Due to the limitations & inconsistencies of various display monitors, the colors you see on your screen may not be a totally accurate reproduction of the actual product. Screen images are intended as a guide only and should not be regarded as absolutely correct. This chart has been designed and printed with our best intentions of being without mistakes. However, the possibility of human error, printing mistakes or the variation of individual stitching does exist, and we regret that we cannot be responsible for this.
Approx: 3" to 3.75" tall This listing is for 1 Random Sonny Angel Japanese designed figure He may bring you happiness
These stays are certainly the most complex cording project I've done, so I wanted to share how I've been going about it! First off, I'm using a totally different cording method than the ones shown in my Making a Corded Petticoat post. In both methods shown in that tutorial, the cord was put in place first and its channel was sewn around it. Those methods work just fine for a corded petticoat, but won't work very well for these stays. Instead, I'm sewing channels into the fabric first, then inserting the cording afterwards. As a reminder, this is the pattern I'm working with: Fabric Prep Since the criss-cross cording is the most difficult part of these stays, that's what we'll focus on. Each of the squares that make up the criss-cross pattern are only 0.25" wide, so they're very small and difficult to sew accurately. The space between each square forms the channel that the cord threads through. I'm using a green shot cotton as the pretty outer fashion layer of the stays, with two layers of thin but tightly woven white cotton as the strength layers. My stitches will go through all three layers of fabric, but the cording will be run between the two white layers of cotton. The first challenge was figuring out how to mark the stitching guidelines on the fabric. I could have made all the markings on the back of each piece, but I find that the top side of my stitching often looks a bit more precise than the back, so I needed a way to mark the green fabric so that I could stitch accurately, but not have the markings visible later. Squares marked with water soluble pen, with a penny for scale. At first I tried using a water soluble fabric marker that had a relatively fine tip. It showed up very well on the fabric, but since it is a marker and the fabric wicked the ink out a bit, the line it left was fairly thick. The thicker line made it very hard to see where exactly to stitch. Some of my test squares were more parallelogram than square, and the width of the squares varied between 5/16" and 3/16" wide. It may seem like I'm being overly picky, but that is a difference of 1/8", which means I was off in some areas by the width of half of a square! When working at such a small scale, even a little bit of deviation becomes extremely obvious. Wibbly wobbly stitching due to wide fabric marker guidelines. I considered using a fine mechanical pencil to draw more precise, accurate lines, but there were two potential issues. One, I was worried it wouldn't wash off well, leaving me with pencil lines all over my stays. Two, it's actually pretty hard to draw an accurate line on this fabric with a mechanical pencil, as the pressure of the lead warps and distorts the fabric as you're trying to draw. Can't draw a straight line b/c the pressure of the lead warps the fabric. Luckily, I was able to solve both issues at once with my favorite secret weapon: Mah super-sekrit weapon. Shh, don't tell! Starch has saved my butt on many a sewing project. Here, it serves two purposes. First, it stiffens the fabric so that it is almost paper-like, so now I can easily draw on it using the mechanical pencil without the fabric distorting. Now I can get perfectly straight, thin, highly accurate stitching lines! With starched fabric, no distortion! Comparison of marker lines vs mechanical pencil lines. Second, thanks to Lifeofglamour's various experiments with tinting starch for use on ruffs, I know that very often, pigments and dirt that are mixed in with or sitting on top of starch wash out without staining the fabric. When I tested this theory on my fabric, washing the starch out washed the pencil marks down the drain too! You can buy spray on starch or the liquid kind you dip your fabric into from the store, but thanks to Frolicking Frocks (dude, check out those petticoats!) I'm a convert to making my own out of cornstarch. My test stitching proves much more straight and accurate with the pencil guidelines, and after washing all evidence of the pencil lead is gone! Now that I've got that settled, the last step before stitching is to use a lightbox to trace my design onto the fabric. Stitching My original plan was to hand-stitch the stays, but I came to my senses after attempting a sample. I tried using my modern sewing machine, but it's very hard to stitch a line precisely 0.25" and stop in exactly the right place using the pedal control, so I pulled out the little Singer 99 hand crank machine I refurbished a few years ago instead. Remember this one? Isn't she pretty? With a hand crank, it's really easy to stop right at the exact number of stitches you want. A lot of fiddling and several tests later, I settled on a stitch length calibrated to precisely 1/16 of an inch, giving me squares that were 4 stitches wide on each side. Getting the correct stitch size is no mean feat on these old machines, since you set the length by screwing an unlabeled knob in or out as needed. That knob is the stitch length regulator. Notice the distinct lack of numbers or any useful markings of any sort? Now that I've got the length set, sewing each square is now as easy as starting the needle in the right place, sewing 4 stitches, sinking the needle on the 4th stitch, raising the presser foot, turning the fabric, putting the foot down again, sewing 4 more stitches, etc, all the way around the square. This leaves a bunch of thread tails all over the place. Of course I can't just trim them because the stitching would come out, so the loose threads are pulled to the back and tied off. Since I'm a bit paranoid about the knots coming undone, I put a dot of Fray-Check on each to prevent unraveling. Remember to test the Fray-Check on an inconspicuous spot first! My layers are thin, and on the first few knots I used too much and it soaked through to the front. Threads pulled to the back for tying. At first I was tying the threads after each square, but it's more efficient to sew several squares, then flip to the back and start pulling through/tying off. The problem with doing it that way is that those loose tails get in the way of stitching, and if you sew through the tail of a square a few rows down it's a mess to untangle. Luckily, I'm owned by two exceedingly furry felines, and thus have a clothing de-furring brush that doubles as a way to clear all my loose threads off to one side with a single swipe. Guess the fuzzbeasts are good for something. There's something like 200 tiny squares on just ONE front panel, plus more on each side panel, so you can see why this has been taking me a while! Cording After washing the starch out, drying, and pressing each piece, it's FINALLY time to stuff some cord in there. I'm using the same Sugar n' Cream cotton cord that I used in my corded petticoat. You'll want a cord of a width that fits fairly snugly in your channels, so choose accordingly, or stitch your channels to accommodate the cord you wish to use. I'm using a thick, blunt needle with a wide eye. Tapestry needles are perfect. The eye should be large enough that the cord just fits through it, but not so big that the needle won't fit through your channels with the now doubled cord in tow. I also have a pair needle nose pliers, because despite my best efforts, the eye of my needle still gets stuck in the fabric sometimes. When I made my last pair of corded stays, I broke the only good needle I had and swapped to one that was nearly the same, only sharp instead of blunt. It sorta worked, but the sharp tip kept shredding the fabric on both sides, and those scrapes later unraveled into larger holes, allowing the cord to poke out. I wouldn't have minded if they were all on the inside, but most of them were on the pretty outside! If all you can get is a sharp needle, grind the tip down. Holes in channels caused by sharp needle shredding fabric. Sadly, these are on the front, so they show when I wear it. On the backside of the stays, I poke the needle through just one layer of fabric right at the start of a channel. Since the needle is blunt, with some fabrics an awl is needed to start the hole. It takes a bit of practice to get the tip to go through just one layer of fabric, but practice makes perfect, right? Using an awl to start the hole. Threading the needle into the channel. Once inside, the needle is pushed down the length of the channel, dragging the cord behind it. It's tight, and I have to moosh (super technical term) and manipulate the fabric around the needle to move it along. Sometimes the pliers are necessary to pull the needle through the channel too. The eye is stuck at the entry to the channel, so I use pliers to help it along. At the opposite end, I poke the tip of the needle back out through the back fabric and pull it out, taking care to not pull all the cording out with it! The pliers are also super useful here, as the eye of the needle generally gets stuck on the way out. All the pushing and pulling on the needle is pretty rough on my fingers; using the pliers instead solves that problem. The downside is that I'm more likely to break a needle when pulling on it with the pliers. It's easier on my fingers to just use the pliers to pull the needle out. I don't trim the cord close to the fabric just yet; instead I cut it so there's about 1" still hanging out, then move on to the other channels. The places where the cords cross are a bit tricky to get through, but it's doable. Eventually I end up with a small forest of cord ends growing out of the back of the stays. Well that's a right mess. Once I've got a whole section done, I start trimming the stray tails. I cut the cord pretty close to the fabric, but not right flush with it. There are till some tiny tails hanging out. Trimmed close, with just a little bit hanging out. Then, without holding onto the cord, I tug on both ends of the channel, stretching the fabric slightly. Most of the tails pop back into their holes and disappear. A few are still sticking out a bit, but this is the inside of the garment, so I don't care overmuch. Gently stretching each channel. There are still holes at the start and end of each channel, but again, it's the inside, and they close up a little with time anyways. No more tails! Wow, that got lengthy! If any part of this tutorial isn't clear, let me know and I'll try to unmuddy it a bit. If you've got a cool cording project you're working on, show us in the comments! I've still got a few panels to go, so I'm off to the sewing table again for another late night.
****THIS IS NOT A PHYSICAL OBJECT YOU ARE BUYING!! I DO NOT SEND A PATTERN IN THE MAIL! YOU WILL RECEIVE A PDF FILE THAT YOU PRINT OUT AND ASSEMBLE YOURSELF. DRESS / SKIRT/ BRA PATTERN NOT INCLUDED*** Learn how to create these Angel Belle Sleeves! Pattern and written Tutorial included. You will receive 3 files: 1. Printable Angel Belle Pattern (standard letter size) 27 pages 2. Printable Angel Belle Pattern (A4 format) 27 pages 3. Instruction PDF for Angel Belle. A 24 page written tutorial with photos to follow along on how to assemble. -Includes a full list of materials needed. -This is an Adult Size / One-Size-Fits-All. Pattern complete with seam allowances. Pattern complete with seam allowances. -Print out on standard 8.5 x 11-inch paper. TERMS OF USE ********************************************************** Personal use only. Purchase doesn't transfer copyright. All rights reserved to Firefly Path LLC. YOU MAY Use my files on any personal project. YOU MAY NOT By purchasing my files, you agree that you will not resell any part of them. Resale of my files is absolutely prohibited. No elements from my files may be resold. Purchase doesn't transfer copyright. All rights reserved. REFUNDS ********************************************************** Due to the nature of the electronic files provided in this item, no refunds. *This tutorial is written in English only Photographer - Elizabeth Elder Photography Models - Emily O'dette & Elizabeth Elder
Explore aleshurik's 637 photos on Flickr!
April 202 Ministering Handout Wow! What a difference a month makes!!!! It is really hard to believe where we are today compared to a month ago…I hope we will say that again next month!! Times are a little bit scary, but I am so glad that we have a prophet who is pro active and … Continue reading April 2020 Ministering Handout →
Approx: 3" to 3.75" tall This listing is for 1 Random Sonny Angel Japanese designed figure He may bring you happiness
Explore daria.lvovsky's 972 photos on Flickr!
Today my friend Helen came to share with us how to make a sweet little first doll for a baby from a recycled woollen garment. Helen moved to Australia from New Zealand at the beginning of this year and she brought with her some lovely ideas from the craft group at the Steiner school her daughters attended there. This little doll is not new, rather it is in a classic 'Steiner' style ~ simple, natural fibres and no facial features; what makes it a little different is its lavender 'heart'. We added a small sprinkle of dried lavender flowers wrapped in fleece when we stuffed the bodies to soothe the wee ones off to sleep. Helen also explained that when she was taught to make these little dolls they made them with the inside outside. The reason was because it had been worn by another turing it inside out gave it a new side. Helen didn't mind at all when I asked if it was ok to share today's session in the blog sphere; so I took pictures as we went. They are a bit dodgy tho because I only had my phone camera on me. Everything I write from now on is a bit, shall we say 'organic' ~ there isn't really a pattern or a size; there is a general shape tho! here goes: The picture above shows the shape you need, the (very rough) dimensions of this piece were 13" by 5" and curve your corners. Next make a head. To do that get some fleece and starting small, wind up a tight ball shape until it is the size you need; keep in mind that babies have big heads ~ the proportions are 1/3 head 2/3 body. These dolls are more like 1/4 head 3/4 body...but they are in sleeping bags! Now stitch up your side seams ~ right sides together. You could do this on a machine or by hand using either running stitch or back stitch. Fold it in half lengthwise and starting on one folded edge side, stitch down and around the curve ~ REMEMBER you want to leave a hole in the centre bottom big enough to get your head through so don't keep going all the way round! Start back at the other folded edge and come back down and round the curve leaving a gap. Ok now you put your head in. You will need a length of linen or other strong thread ready to tie off your head. Turn your fabric right way out and fold in in half to find the exact centre on the top edge (not the curved bottom edge with the opening) put in a pin vertically at that point and then push your balled up head fleece through the opening and up to the pin. The pin will hold the ball securish while you pull and stretch the fabric down around it. You are aiming for a neat ball with as few wrinkles as you can manage. Holding the stretched head in one hand wrap your linen thread tightly around the 'neck' of the ball to secure the shape. I wrap three times and knot three times, but whatever works for you. Once you have done that you will have a couple of linen threads hanging loose. Thread them into a needle and pull them through into the inside of the doll to hide them. Ok. if you would like to add a lavender heart here is how. Pull off a longish piece of fleece and lay it across your palm, then add another across the opposite way (so you have a cross or X) pinch up some dried lavender flowers and sprinkle them into the centre of the cross and then carefully wrap first one side, then the other and keep repeating the process til you have a neat little bundle - give it a squeeze to release the heady fragrance. Stuff the doll so that it is cuddly and has plenty of give, not firm, and put in your little 'heart' before you blind stitch up the bottom edge. Next you want to pull in the edges to make it have arms; to do that hold it up and push the sides in with your fingers til you like the look and it is even. Mark the points your fingers were with a couple of pins. Now how you do the next bit depends on if you want a centre bow or not. For a very small baby you might prefer not to have any dangly bits of thread they can get their fingers hooked in, so whatever you prefer. for no bow ~ thread your needed with strong thread, you might like to double it, come up from below your pin and do a couple of small backstitches to secure it then push your needle all the way through and out at your other pin point ~ pull taught ~ turn your needle around and go back through and out the first side ~ pull taught ~ backstitch and knot to secure then push your needle back though the middle and out, snip the thread close to the doll body. To make a bow: put the needle in just to the right of centre leaving a tail long enough to tie into a bow, then push the needle through to the left side, turn it around and push it back coming out to one side of the centre back. make a smallish stitch, say half an inch, across the back and then go back in and come out on the other side seam. Go in once more and come out to the left of the centre front ~ pull taught. You might need someone to help you hold the strings secure while you double knot and double bow. Ok now you just add a hat - you can do this in whatever style you like utilising whichever bit of the garment works. For a long pointy hat, measure around the head to get the length of the flat edgen and try this triangular shape ~ The hat below was made with part of a turtle neck jumper. The two above were from the sleeve cuffs. Sew it up, stitch it on and you are done.
Gluten free angel biscuits, made with both baking powder & yeast, rise high in the oven with layer upon layer of flaky goodness.
Our new Meet the Maker video is here! We have a lovely short film for you this week where you can ‘meet’ Autumn Fussell (aka dottie angel), of Curious and Coe! A friend to Loop for year…
