As you probably know, I am very fond of the embroidery technique called long and short stitching, and I hope more and more people fall in love with it and see that it is actually not that scary and not that hard. Well, it is not that easy either and it requires some time and patience to get friendly with it. But it is totally worth it, isn't it? By today I actually have plenty of material on this blog about long and short stitch as well as needle painting. So I decided to gather it all up in this post for easy access! Save it to Pinterest or your browser bookmarks because if I ever write something new on the topic of needle painting or long and short stitch, I will be adding it here :) Long and short stitch tutorial Let's start with the basics. I recommend you going to the long and short stitch tutorial and trying to replicate every step from there. There are some tips at the end of the post, so make sure you check them out as well. Personally, I believe the two crucial points for your long and short stitch to take off are: keeping a consistent direction of stitches varying the "levels" where you start your stitches When there is a certain inconsistency in the direction of your stitches, it usually stands out and breaks the general “flow” of your stitching. Unless, of course, you make a conscious decision to break that flow for a certain artistic purpose. As for the second point... In my personal opinion (which kind of differs from many other artists) is that it is not the length of the stitches per se that should be varying. But rather, the “levels” at which you start the stitches. And this is something I have learnt on my own and found it much easier, to be honest. I speak about it in more detail in my online needle painting course since it is easier to explain in the video while actually showing you how it works. But in short, you can, in fact, keep the length of your stitches the same or they can end at the same level. It doesn't really change anything. The most important is where you start these stitches. And for your blending to be smoother, you need at least 2, but better 3-4 “levels” where you start these stitches. And then make them as long as you like, just make sure they end significantly below the mark for the next row (I will link a separate post on that below, called “getting your rows right"). Now, suppose you already worked the little petal from the tutorial. Congratulations if yours looks the same! If it doesn't that's totally fine, we all need some time to reach that point. I mean, I wrote that tutorial not at the beginning of my embroidery journey, you know what I mean? But let's be real, an exercise like that is quite an isolated practice. The real questions and issues will arise when you actually use it in your practice. And for your practice to go smooth, I have prepared a series of needle painting tips that I will also list below. Long and short stitch practice If you need some ideas on where to actually get this long and short stitching practice while not feeling too lost, I have several Stitch Alongs already completed and ready for you to start whenever you want! The benefit of these Stitch Alongs is that you have detailed step-by-step pictures for virtually every stage of working a design so the visual support is quite strong. (By the way, if you have any suggestions for a new Stitch Along, feel free to drop your ideas in the comments) I will list all the current Stitch-Alongs from this blog in the order of difficulty (from the easiest to the toughest): Cecelia Rose Trish Burr's Pansies Trish Burr's Magnolia If you want more guidance in your learning and prefer video material over pictures, make sure to check out the Needle painting for beginners course. There we work special exercises imitating various realistic situations you can encounter in long and short stitching and all of the material is presented in detailed video lessons. Long and short stitch tips And, like I said, while you start practicing your long and short stitching, inevitably, there will be new questions and confusing moments. I'm trying to cover them little by little and I made a special tag for these posts: needle painting tips. You can go to the tag and check them out there, but for better convenience, I will list all of the posts here (and I will be adding the new ones here too, that's why I encourage you to save it): Color blending tips (color theory and case study on which color combinations work better) Leaves practice (another case study on color combinations) Levels of long and short stitch (a case study on the “levels” of starting your stitches) Diagonal shading (step by step guide) Shading in patches (step by step guide) Shading on shading, is it worth it? (contemplating on one of the ways of multiple-row long and short stitching and looking at the pros and cons) Must watch Youtube tutorials (I wonder if you noticed how much I LOVE visual learning) Importance of correct direction (a case study with examples and tips) Filling a shape with long and short stitching (it can be used as a filler in a solid color too) Secret behind getting your rows right (how to make sure that your rows will correspond to the pattern) Youtube video of a process More layers = better shading? (does the number of rows and colors affect the result of your shading?) So here's your guide! I know this pile of information can be overwhelming but don't get discouraged, okay? Just learn it step by step and continue your practice. You will reach your goal as long as you move even if it is an inch a day. And, most importantly, enjoy! :)

Long and short stitch, also known as "thread-painting" or "needle-painting" is a challenging yet rewarding embroidery skill. Use this stitch to create color gradations and shading or highlighting to give your subjects a three dimensional look. Here are a few key ideas I have discovered through many hours of long and sh

As you probably know, I am very fond of the embroidery technique called long and short stitching, and I hope more and more people fall in love with it and see that it is actually not that scary and not that hard. Well, it is not that easy either and it requires some time and patience to get friendly with it. But it is totally worth it, isn't it? By today I actually have plenty of material on this blog about long and short stitch as well as needle painting. So I decided to gather it all up in this post for easy access! Save it to Pinterest or your browser bookmarks because if I ever write something new on the topic of needle painting or long and short stitch, I will be adding it here :) Long and short stitch tutorial Let's start with the basics. I recommend you going to the long and short stitch tutorial and trying to replicate every step from there. There are some tips at the end of the post, so make sure you check them out as well. Personally, I believe the two crucial points for your long and short stitch to take off are: keeping a consistent direction of stitches varying the "levels" where you start your stitches When there is a certain inconsistency in the direction of your stitches, it usually stands out and breaks the general “flow” of your stitching. Unless, of course, you make a conscious decision to break that flow for a certain artistic purpose. As for the second point... In my personal opinion (which kind of differs from many other artists) is that it is not the length of the stitches per se that should be varying. But rather, the “levels” at which you start the stitches. And this is something I have learnt on my own and found it much easier, to be honest. I speak about it in more detail in my online needle painting course since it is easier to explain in the video while actually showing you how it works. But in short, you can, in fact, keep the length of your stitches the same or they can end at the same level. It doesn't really change anything. The most important is where you start these stitches. And for your blending to be smoother, you need at least 2, but better 3-4 “levels” where you start these stitches. And then make them as long as you like, just make sure they end significantly below the mark for the next row (I will link a separate post on that below, called “getting your rows right"). Now, suppose you already worked the little petal from the tutorial. Congratulations if yours looks the same! If it doesn't that's totally fine, we all need some time to reach that point. I mean, I wrote that tutorial not at the beginning of my embroidery journey, you know what I mean? But let's be real, an exercise like that is quite an isolated practice. The real questions and issues will arise when you actually use it in your practice. And for your practice to go smooth, I have prepared a series of needle painting tips that I will also list below. Long and short stitch practice If you need some ideas on where to actually get this long and short stitching practice while not feeling too lost, I have several Stitch Alongs already completed and ready for you to start whenever you want! The benefit of these Stitch Alongs is that you have detailed step-by-step pictures for virtually every stage of working a design so the visual support is quite strong. (By the way, if you have any suggestions for a new Stitch Along, feel free to drop your ideas in the comments) I will list all the current Stitch-Alongs from this blog in the order of difficulty (from the easiest to the toughest): Cecelia Rose Trish Burr's Pansies Trish Burr's Magnolia If you want more guidance in your learning and prefer video material over pictures, make sure to check out the Needle painting for beginners course. There we work special exercises imitating various realistic situations you can encounter in long and short stitching and all of the material is presented in detailed video lessons. Long and short stitch tips And, like I said, while you start practicing your long and short stitching, inevitably, there will be new questions and confusing moments. I'm trying to cover them little by little and I made a special tag for these posts: needle painting tips. You can go to the tag and check them out there, but for better convenience, I will list all of the posts here (and I will be adding the new ones here too, that's why I encourage you to save it): Color blending tips (color theory and case study on which color combinations work better) Leaves practice (another case study on color combinations) Levels of long and short stitch (a case study on the “levels” of starting your stitches) Diagonal shading (step by step guide) Shading in patches (step by step guide) Shading on shading, is it worth it? (contemplating on one of the ways of multiple-row long and short stitching and looking at the pros and cons) Must watch Youtube tutorials (I wonder if you noticed how much I LOVE visual learning) Importance of correct direction (a case study with examples and tips) Filling a shape with long and short stitching (it can be used as a filler in a solid color too) Secret behind getting your rows right (how to make sure that your rows will correspond to the pattern) Youtube video of a process More layers = better shading? (does the number of rows and colors affect the result of your shading?) So here's your guide! I know this pile of information can be overwhelming but don't get discouraged, okay? Just learn it step by step and continue your practice. You will reach your goal as long as you move even if it is an inch a day. And, most importantly, enjoy! :)

I’m super excited about this week's topic - using long and short stitches to create painterly effects on your canvases! If you’ve ever wanted to stitch

Long and short stitch is the key stitch used in the silk shading technique. While simple in concept, it's taken practice to get to grips with it.

Long and short stitch embroidery is a hand embroidery technique for filling. It is popular for shading flower petals, birds, and animals.

I am so excited to introduce you to the wonderful world of Long and Short Stitch! Long and Short Stitch is a filler-style technique that can be used to fill in large shapes with a lovely textured effect. This stitch works really well in large areas as an alternative to Satin Stitch.

Long and short stitch, also known as "thread-painting" or "needle-painting" is a challenging yet rewarding embroidery skill. Use this stitch to create color gradations and shading or highlighting to give your subjects a three dimensional look. Here are a few key ideas I have discovered through many hours of long and sh

I hadn’t planned to do a series of posts on LSS but it seems that I’m not finished with it yet. This is not intended to be a definitive guide; I am certainly no expert on the subject. These are just my ramblings and pictures of my sample stitching. The method describe in my previous post was based on the Japanese embroidery technique nagamijika-sashinui (alternating LSS). The foundation row consists of long stitches (approx. 10mm) alternating with short stitches (6-7mm). The stitches of the following row are all the same length (approx 10mm) and worked between the long stitches of the foundation row, splitting the short stitches about half way along their length. The stitches of the following rows are also the same length and are worked between the stitches of the preceding row, splitting the stitches of the previous row about one-third along their length. The stitches in the final row are worked in the same way and are shorter, ending in line with the ends of the stitches in the previos row. In her book Painting with a Needle, Young Yang Chung describes a different method; one that uses long and short stitches in every row. The first row is worked in the same way as for nagamijika-sashinui but with slightly shorter stitches (approximately 8mm and 5mm). The following rows also consist of alternating long and short stitches that overlap and interlock the stitches of the preceding row. The long stitches are roughly 13mm and the short stitches about 5mm. Young Yang Chung says that the stitches should come from below the stitches in the previous row rather than split them. She suggests moving the stitch aside with your finger; I found it easier to do this with my tekobari. The stitches do not travel across the fabric as the above diagram suggests. I drew it this way to illustrate how the stitches overlap and interlock. And this is how it looks stitched. Happy Stitching

Learn how to long and short stitch form this tutorial and my tips!

This post provides a rather long answer to my lovely reader Wendy’s question from the last post. Here is the photo of the petal from a distance. Here is the petal next to a ruler. The ruler i…

Here’s Lesson Four in this series of long and short stitch shading lessons. If you’re just joining in, you’ll find an index of the long and short stitch shading lessons available here on Needle ‘n Thread, where you’ll find all the links necessarily to easily access these embroidery lessons. In Lesson Four, we are looking ...

While working on the new spread for the journal, I thought maybe I should share a little tip with you on how to fill irregular shapes with long and short stitching! Especially since there was a similar request recently. See all the other posts on needlepainting tips here. By the way, if you recognize the motif, tell in the comments below! :) I was previously asked about how to fill large spaces with long and short stitching. Like, when you have a motif and you want to fill the white space around it with a color, for example. And the method is pretty much the same that will be demonstrated in this post. The number 1, most important thing to do is: choose the direction of your stitches and stick with it until the end. If it is vertical, keep it vertical even in the smallest corners or curves. Don't think that “since there is very little space there, and it is a curve, so maybe it would look better if I slant my stitches a little to fit better in the curve...” or anything of that sort. No, no, no. The direction of your stitches should be consistent no matter what specifics that area has! And that's pretty much the whole secret. The only thing left is patience because filling large spaces with stitching does take some effort and time. The flower I needed to fill also has an irregular shape. And one could be tempted to fill it with satin stitch in a radial way: starting from the sides and ending at the center. But the vertical stitching looks a bit neater, in my opinion. So, the first thing you can do is to mark the direction of your stitches. I did it with a simple pencil – it doesn't matter if it is permanent because everything will be covered anyway. Then start long and short stitching the way you're used to it. No special tricks here. I'm just using guiding stitches at first and then rely on the direction of the previously worked stitches. You can see that there are corners and curves in the center of this motif but we need to fight the temptation to change the direction of the stitches to fit them in there. It will spoil the appearance of stitching. And here's the outcome! Look forward to the whole spread :)

Before we start, an important announcement! I'm having a SALE in my Etsy shop: everything is down 15% until the end of March. Hurry up to make your purchase, especially if you already have my designs in the cart! Now, let's get back to the topic :) When you work long and short stitch, one of your main goals should be the correct direction of your stitches. As long as you achieve that, the surface of your stitching will be smooth, and the blending will be easier. Here are two examples. On the left is what my long and short stitch looks like nowadays, and where I'm paying attention to the direction of stitches. On the right is the result of me channeling my former confused beginner self, where I would easily put stitches in the wrong direction. To get my point across better, here are both of the examples with “guiding lines” drawn over the stitching. Take a closer look yourself, first, and try to see the difference in stitching. {ay attention to the direction of my stitches in both examples. Now, a large part of the improvement is due to practicing, of course. But even when you are a beginner and don't have big baggage of worked long and short stitching, there are still some tips for you! Tips for correct direction of stitches 1. Drawing guiding lines First of all, you can draw the guiding lines right on the ground fabric. Often times, authors of embroidery designs already provide you with directions of stitches in their diagrams. But you can also draw it yourself. I usually draw them myself with a standard pencil because it leaves me with more freedom – I can draw as many guiding lines as I need. And sometimes, the way I “feel” the shape, would be slightly different than how the author sees it so I may draw them differently. And I think that's valid too. If in your mind the “strokes” of stitches lie differently, I would recommend following your guts. It would be easier for you to work because otherwise, you would have a slight dissonance between what you see on the diagram and in your mind. 2. Guiding stitches When you gain a bit more experience, you will probably start choosing only one: either drawing guiding lines, or working guiding stitches. However, in the beginning, you might make use of both, actually. The more detailed is your “planning” of stitching, the less confused you will be about the direction of stitches. Then you start filling the space between the guiding stitches. You can make the guiding stitches for each of the rows of long and short stitching. Another way of working guiding stitches is to use running stitching as your guiding lines. It works just as well. Except, that it would be more convenient to work in 1 color, of course. And if you plan to use several colors to create a blending effect, that might be a problem. Otherwise, if you're using long and short stitch as a filler in 1 color, or if your blending is more “vertical” and you don't mind throwing some colors here and there, then there is no harm at all. 3 Pulling the working thread to find the right direction When you are confused about where you should insert the needle for your stitch to lie perfectly in line with the one from the previous row, you can pull the working end of thread and then insert the needle at the suitable point. I constantly use this method, it's like a norm. And because of that I don't always draw guiding lines on the fabric. This way of pulling thread is quite enough. However, there can be different situations. This method largely suits the situation when you need to lay your stitches along straight lines. But the shape could have some curves, it can be round or oval, and then this method would be less helpful. Nevertheless, it is still a great habit to develop and make use of! So here is the finished result of the heart with “correct” direction of stitches. How about seeing the process of working the other one? Here is me, not using any guiding lines, but just working some stitches over the outline. At first glance, it might not seem too bad. But if you look closer and try to continue the lines of the stitches in your mind, you would notice how some of them are bound to cross. Which is not very good. When you start working the second row, the problem becomes more evident. You see how the direction of stitches is changing all the time? Well, I put myself a goal to complete the shape no matter what, while still imagining myself a confused beginner stitcher, and here is the result. Take a closer look at the stitches' direction to understand the difference with another heart. I mean, it actually isn't that bad. The shape is complete and the colors are there. If you look at it from a distance you might not even notice any problem. But there is still room for improvement too. So, I hope today's tips will be helpful in your next project! Check all the previous posts under the tag “needlepainting tips” for more advice!

This topic is something I've wanted to cover for a while now. It is especially beneficial for beginner embroiderers who are currently exploring long and short stitching and needlepainting. So, today's topic is actually not just “using long and short stitch as a filler”. I mean, we all know that it can be used as one, right? And we all know the main “how's” of using it as a filler: outline the shape and fill with long and short stitches. In fact, the main point that I wanted to speak about today is using long and short stitching to fill a curvy/wavy shape. Or, in other words, a shape where the direction of your stitches has to change slightly. This wording, however, is a bit too heavy for a headline and I just don't know how to phrase it better, haha. Anyway. Why is this topic important? The main problem here is that long and short stitching consists of straight stitches. And one of the characteristics of stitches is that you can't really bend or curl them. Most of the time, it is a straight line between point A and point B that we use in a lot of various ways. It is not a brush stroke that you can lay in any curvy or wavy way you want. So how can you use these straight stitches to not only fill a shape but keep the “flow” of that shape? Actually, the main trick here is the same as with stem stitch. If you go to the Stem StitchCrash Course and take a look at the last point, you will see there what I said about using it for curves. Stem stitch is a straight line, so that's why the secret is the same. Make your stitches shorter! You can start with guiding stitches, as usual, keeping their direction aligned with the shape's outline. After filling the empty space between the stitches, you can start with the second row of stitches. Now, if I'm completely honest, I lose the sense of which stitch is short and which one is long, quite soon after that. So I just vary the length of my stitches and vary the place where they come out from the previous row. If one stitch started lower, I start the other stitch higher, and so on. This is the longest that I allow myself to make the stitches in such cases. The shape didn't reach the main curve yet and is still pretty straight, so I can slack off a little bit and make the stitches longer. Also, don't forget to keep your stitching dense. Currently, there are definitely more stitches here than there were at the beginning point. As you reach the curve, make your stitches shorter. Look carefully at my stitches here and imagine that they are continued longer and longer. If you do that, you will realize that they actually would bump into the outline. That's why we make them shorter. The other rows of stitches will soften the “straightness” and will create an illusion of bending stitches. We are on a finishing line here. The shape is narrowing down and the number of stitches we use to fill it at this part is decreasing, but we still need to maintain the same density. And so, this is the final result. By the way, this is a new design I'm currently working on! It is going to feature a lot of long and short stitch and color blending so it is going to be a GREAT practice for you! :) Hope this post was helpful! Check out the other Needlepainting tips to master it better :)

This topic is something I've wanted to cover for a while now. It is especially beneficial for beginner embroiderers who are currently exploring long and short stitching and needlepainting. So, today's topic is actually not just “using long and short stitch as a filler”. I mean, we all know that it can be used as one, right? And we all know the main “how's” of using it as a filler: outline the shape and fill with long and short stitches. In fact, the main point that I wanted to speak about today is using long and short stitching to fill a curvy/wavy shape. Or, in other words, a shape where the direction of your stitches has to change slightly. This wording, however, is a bit too heavy for a headline and I just don't know how to phrase it better, haha. Anyway. Why is this topic important? The main problem here is that long and short stitching consists of straight stitches. And one of the characteristics of stitches is that you can't really bend or curl them. Most of the time, it is a straight line between point A and point B that we use in a lot of various ways. It is not a brush stroke that you can lay in any curvy or wavy way you want. So how can you use these straight stitches to not only fill a shape but keep the “flow” of that shape? Actually, the main trick here is the same as with stem stitch. If you go to the Stem StitchCrash Course and take a look at the last point, you will see there what I said about using it for curves. Stem stitch is a straight line, so that's why the secret is the same. Make your stitches shorter! You can start with guiding stitches, as usual, keeping their direction aligned with the shape's outline. After filling the empty space between the stitches, you can start with the second row of stitches. Now, if I'm completely honest, I lose the sense of which stitch is short and which one is long, quite soon after that. So I just vary the length of my stitches and vary the place where they come out from the previous row. If one stitch started lower, I start the other stitch higher, and so on. This is the longest that I allow myself to make the stitches in such cases. The shape didn't reach the main curve yet and is still pretty straight, so I can slack off a little bit and make the stitches longer. Also, don't forget to keep your stitching dense. Currently, there are definitely more stitches here than there were at the beginning point. As you reach the curve, make your stitches shorter. Look carefully at my stitches here and imagine that they are continued longer and longer. If you do that, you will realize that they actually would bump into the outline. That's why we make them shorter. The other rows of stitches will soften the “straightness” and will create an illusion of bending stitches. We are on a finishing line here. The shape is narrowing down and the number of stitches we use to fill it at this part is decreasing, but we still need to maintain the same density. And so, this is the final result. By the way, this is a new design I'm currently working on! It is going to feature a lot of long and short stitch and color blending so it is going to be a GREAT practice for you! :) Hope this post was helpful! Check out the other Needlepainting tips to master it better :)

Long and short stitch is the key stitch used in the silk shading technique. While simple in concept, it's taken practice to get to grips with it.

Learn Long and short hand embroidery stitch with this simple video tutorial. This stitch is also called needle painting and is used for filling areas.

In Lesson Five of this series of Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons, we’re looking at element 4 on the sampler, the ribbon-like swirl and the little swash shape in the top right corner. If you are just joining us for these lessons in shading with long and short stitch, you can find all the ...

Hello everyone Hope your week is going well. For several months I have been working with the idea of providing tutorials on my website – am still tinkering with the idea of uploading some vi…