How to Make a Winter Riding Skirt from Canvas and Fleece Step-by-Step Guide This is my general guide to making a canvas fleece lined riding ...
This is a digitized version of an 1895 split riding skirt in the “double breasted” style. It is shaped by a dart on either side of the front, two darts on either side of the center back, and pleated to size in the back. Two rows of buttons run along the front of either leg. These hold in place a modesty panel which may be attached to the front of the split skirt when desired. The skirt is intended to be approximately calf-length in order to not get caught in your bicycle. In this pattern, a classic bag pocket is included and is hidden in the left-hand side placket closure. Pattern Notes & Sizing • No seam allowance included. Add as desired. • Waist: 24” • Outside Length: 40 ½” • Inseam: 29 ½” • Seat: 42” • The skirt is drafted intentionally long. The hem is meant to sit at about calf to mid calf. Adjust accordingly to your height. You Will Receive: PDF with pattern sheet to be printed at home on standard 8.5x11" printer paper PDF with detailed printing, assembly, and sewing instructions including additional sources. PDF with a guide to grading/sizing your sewing pattern
Riding skirt for women is made for riding in cold season. This riding clothes keeps you and your horse warm and comfort. Water resistant and windproof outer fabric + insulation protects your legs from cold, rain or snow. ➤ Light and warm equestrian skirt ➤ Easy to put on and to take off Please choose size in drop down menu: ➤Size S-M-L: Waist can be adjusted by velcro fastening: 24-41 inch (62-104 cm) Length: 35 inch (89 cm). ➤Size XL-XXL: Waist can be adjusted by velcro fastening: 41-50 inch (104-130 cm) Length: 35 inch (89 cm). 👉Size guidelines👈 If you're on the end of the small size please order the larger size. ✓ Fabric color may differ slightly from the colors in the photo due to monitor settings. ✓ Washing instructions: machine wash at 35 degrees, iron at 40 degrees.
Which skirt should I choose? Hands down, this is our most frequently asked question. The answer is always the same: it depends on what you want to do, and when and where you are doing it. Arctic Horse All Weather skirts offer so much versatility: wear them teaching/taking lessons, riding, working outside, running errands, hiking, and going to dinner. These skirts are gorgeous and do their job so you can do yours. All skirts are made in Alaska by women making a living wage, and we use American Made materials as much as possible. Although choosing one skirt can be difficult (imagine choosing only one jacket for all seasons/activities?), being specific about your comfort preferences, and your local environment can really help narrow it down. All of the skirts add a degree of warmth, all are waterproof or water-resistant, and they all serve multiple-functions. That really narrowed it down for you, didn't it? Not to worry, below is a guide to Arctic Horse All Weather Riding skirts, and some of the conditions to consider when choosing your riding skirt. All photos credited to the amazingly talented Gutierrez Photography. Cold-Weather Riding and Working Living in Alaska, the first skirt I dreamt up was insulated, because, did I mention I live in Alaska? We have four seasons here, Almost Winter, Winter, Still Winter, and Construction. See, along with better being able to choose a riding skirt, you now know an Alaska joke, thanks to this post. You're welcome. For very cold conditions, our two warmest skirts are the Full Arctic Insulated Riding Skirt (shown above in plum) and the Narrow Arctic Insulated Riding skirt. Both insulated riding skirts are waterproof, and are equally warm- thanks to 6 ounces of super light, extremely warm insulation insulation doesn't require quilting to stay in place, so there aren't holes all over the skirt to lose heat through same insulation used by the US Military for soldiers, (and it's machine washable). The main differences between the Narrow Arctic Insulated Riding Skirt and the Full Arctic Insulated Riding skirt lie in their construction. The Full Arctic has no rear zipper, and serves as a quarter sheet on your horse's back. The Narrow Arctic Insulated Riding skirt does have a rear zipper, which splits the skirt to only cover the rider's legs while riding. The picture below shows how differently the two skirts look on the horse's back. So, first consideration should be whether you want the skirt to cover the horse's back. My Appaloosa loves the extra warmth on his back, but doesn't need to have it. My friend's Rocky Mountain mare absolutely always requires a quarter sheet for cold weather riding, so her Full Arctic Riding skirt cuts out the need for the quarter sheet, and saves her a step. I prefer riding in the Full Arctic, it's a warm cocoon that captures my horse's heat and transfers it to me. Can't beat that heater! For sheer looks on the ground, the Full Arctic and Narrow Arctic insulated skirts have very different profiles. The Full Arctic has more material, and is more, well... full. The Narrow Arctic Insulated Riding Skirt has a sleeker outline, because it has less material, and a rear zipper. Both are very pretty and flattering. Like all of our skirts, these skirts are easy to put on and take off, thanks to our front two-way zipper that unzips at the top (oh yeah, you can take it on and off while riding your horse, no need to dismount). Or, you can zip the front zipper down to step into it, if you don't feel like completely undoing the whole zipper. Ladies, we made these things easy for you (don't you have enough to wrangle without wrestling with your clothes?). For working around the barn, I prefer the Narrow Arctic Insulated Riding skirt, because it has less material. However, a friend who spends a lot of time on her 4-wheeler around her farm loves the Full Arctic because she doesn't have to unzip the skirt to straddle her machine, and uses the excess material like a cocoon around her legs. Your call, you can work/play/ride in both. Once you wear an insulated skirt you are going to wonder why you allowed your legs to freeze all these long years. Total life changer. Ladies, next on the list of the cold weather skirt train is the Outlander Wool Riding Skirt. Lined with micro-fleece (did you really think I'd put wool against your skin?), this medium weight American wool from humanely sheared sheep will make you feel like you've been transported into 1700's Scotland. It's romantic, it's gorgeous and feminine, it's real, and it will keep you so cozy warm. I mention it's real, because it is so hard to find a true wool skirt these days. I've tried, believe me. Hence, the reason we now we make them. The Outlander Wool Riding Skirt is the Full style, designed to cover the horse's back like a quarter sheet (no rear zipper). Wool is naturally water-resistant, and as a natural fiber, has the ability to breath. The Outlander is so versatile, you can do chores and ride in this skirt, then wear it to the office or out to dinner. You'll turn every head along the way. The fact that you can canter across a field in it can be your little I'm-so-Gone-with-the-Wind- secret. No one at the office is going to believe you that it's a riding skirt anyway (take pictures for proof). Unless you forget to clean it, and you smell like a horse. But, then, that's their problem, because horses smell amazing. The Short Narrow Arctic Riding Skirt is nearly the same as her big sister, the Long Narrow Arctic, except it's shorter- 19,
A hazy sort of freezing mist hung in the air around the trailer where the horses were tied, fully harnessed and hitched to their partners waiting to hook on to the big bobsleds for a
Which skirt should I choose? Hands down, this is our most frequently asked question. The answer is always the same: it depends on what you want to do, and when and where you are doing it. Arctic Horse All Weather skirts offer so much versatility: wear them teaching/taking lessons, riding, working outside, running errands, hiking, and going to dinner. These skirts are gorgeous and do their job so you can do yours. All skirts are made in Alaska by women making a living wage, and we use American Made materials as much as possible. Although choosing one skirt can be difficult (imagine choosing only one jacket for all seasons/activities?), being specific about your comfort preferences, and your local environment can really help narrow it down. All of the skirts add a degree of warmth, all are waterproof or water-resistant, and they all serve multiple-functions. That really narrowed it down for you, didn't it? Not to worry, below is a guide to Arctic Horse All Weather Riding skirts, and some of the conditions to consider when choosing your riding skirt. All photos credited to the amazingly talented Gutierrez Photography. Cold-Weather Riding and Working Living in Alaska, the first skirt I dreamt up was insulated, because, did I mention I live in Alaska? We have four seasons here, Almost Winter, Winter, Still Winter, and Construction. See, along with better being able to choose a riding skirt, you now know an Alaska joke, thanks to this post. You're welcome. For very cold conditions, our two warmest skirts are the Full Arctic Insulated Riding Skirt (shown above in plum) and the Narrow Arctic Insulated Riding skirt. Both insulated riding skirts are waterproof, and are equally warm- thanks to 6 ounces of super light, extremely warm insulation insulation doesn't require quilting to stay in place, so there aren't holes all over the skirt to lose heat through same insulation used by the US Military for soldiers, (and it's machine washable). The main differences between the Narrow Arctic Insulated Riding Skirt and the Full Arctic Insulated Riding skirt lie in their construction. The Full Arctic has no rear zipper, and serves as a quarter sheet on your horse's back. The Narrow Arctic Insulated Riding skirt does have a rear zipper, which splits the skirt to only cover the rider's legs while riding. The picture below shows how differently the two skirts look on the horse's back. So, first consideration should be whether you want the skirt to cover the horse's back. My Appaloosa loves the extra warmth on his back, but doesn't need to have it. My friend's Rocky Mountain mare absolutely always requires a quarter sheet for cold weather riding, so her Full Arctic Riding skirt cuts out the need for the quarter sheet, and saves her a step. I prefer riding in the Full Arctic, it's a warm cocoon that captures my horse's heat and transfers it to me. Can't beat that heater! For sheer looks on the ground, the Full Arctic and Narrow Arctic insulated skirts have very different profiles. The Full Arctic has more material, and is more, well... full. The Narrow Arctic Insulated Riding Skirt has a sleeker outline, because it has less material, and a rear zipper. Both are very pretty and flattering. Like all of our skirts, these skirts are easy to put on and take off, thanks to our front two-way zipper that unzips at the top (oh yeah, you can take it on and off while riding your horse, no need to dismount). Or, you can zip the front zipper down to step into it, if you don't feel like completely undoing the whole zipper. Ladies, we made these things easy for you (don't you have enough to wrangle without wrestling with your clothes?). For working around the barn, I prefer the Narrow Arctic Insulated Riding skirt, because it has less material. However, a friend who spends a lot of time on her 4-wheeler around her farm loves the Full Arctic because she doesn't have to unzip the skirt to straddle her machine, and uses the excess material like a cocoon around her legs. Your call, you can work/play/ride in both. Once you wear an insulated skirt you are going to wonder why you allowed your legs to freeze all these long years. Total life changer. Ladies, next on the list of the cold weather skirt train is the Outlander Wool Riding Skirt. Lined with micro-fleece (did you really think I'd put wool against your skin?), this medium weight American wool from humanely sheared sheep will make you feel like you've been transported into 1700's Scotland. It's romantic, it's gorgeous and feminine, it's real, and it will keep you so cozy warm. I mention it's real, because it is so hard to find a true wool skirt these days. I've tried, believe me. Hence, the reason we now we make them. The Outlander Wool Riding Skirt is the Full style, designed to cover the horse's back like a quarter sheet (no rear zipper). Wool is naturally water-resistant, and as a natural fiber, has the ability to breath. The Outlander is so versatile, you can do chores and ride in this skirt, then wear it to the office or out to dinner. You'll turn every head along the way. The fact that you can canter across a field in it can be your little I'm-so-Gone-with-the-Wind- secret. No one at the office is going to believe you that it's a riding skirt anyway (take pictures for proof). Unless you forget to clean it, and you smell like a horse. But, then, that's their problem, because horses smell amazing. The Short Narrow Arctic Riding Skirt is nearly the same as her big sister, the Long Narrow Arctic, except it's shorter- 19,
A lovely cotton corduroy riding skirt. It is is a "fan" skirt styled from the late 19th century. The skirt has a waistband and buttons in the back. Cotton corduroy. Dry Clean or hand wash cold. Proudly made by Recollections in America. The model is wearing a jacket which is available and priced separately. The following are approximate finished waist measurements and include room for ease of movement. Waist (in inches) XS 28 S 29.5 M 31.5 L 35.5 XL 41 XXL 44 3XL 50 4XL 56.5
How to Make a Winter Riding Skirt from Canvas and Fleece Step-by-Step Guide This is my general guide to making a canvas fleece lined riding skirt. This "pattern" will help guide you make a heavy duty washable, daily use circle skirt that is split down the front to keep you and your horse warm. It works a bit like a wearable half sheet. If you have any questions by all means leave a comment and I'll try and answer it to the best of my ability. Supplies: I think there's the guts of about three skirts here. Christmas circa 2017 Yours Truly at about 2am sometime in December regretting her entrepreneurial endeavors. Fleece Fabric 3-4 yards Canvas or other outer fabric of choice 3-4 yards (same amount as Fleece, if you're bigger or taller- get 4 yards, average body type 3.5 will do and smaller as little as 3) A few heavy duty sewing needles for your machine Thread to match canvas/outer fabric. heavy duty recommended snaps- sew on (get 2) or pound in (get 4- this is the speediest/easiest way to go) Large dinner plate (I'll explain. promise.) Measuring tape If your outer fabric is cotton, canvas or you even suspect it might shrink. Go wash it. This is important. Measure your Body You'll want to get a couple of measurements to help you diagram out how you will cut out your pieces. Measure your waist. Measure it with the appropriate number of layers you intend to be wearing. add a smidge extra for the potential for Christmas feasting. Write that number down. Outseam. This is on your pants from the top of your pants/hipbone/where you want your skirt resting to your ankle. If you can't get your outseam- your inseam + 4-5 inches works fine. Hated Math we're going to have to do some So we're going to have to do some circle-ometry. This skirt is a full circle skirt. Don't worry I'll walk you through it. Your waist measurement determines the waistband of your skirt. You'll want to add 2.5 inches to it for overlap for your snaps. In order to diagram out and cut out your pieces we need to determine the radius of the circle that is your waist + 2.5 inches. Circumference (waist measurement + 2.5 inches) = 2* radius* pi. So you can solve for your Radius as r = C/(3.14 x 2) Alternatively: just visit this site and plug in your waist measurement + 2.5 inches into the circumference and take the returning radius value. Circumference Calculator Write down that radius value. We're gonna need that. Alright. you'll need these numbers to get you going: Waist Radius Outseam Waist Radius + Outseam and we'll work out some diagramming. Diagraming and Laying out the Skirt pieces After gathering together all these numbers, we can draw the pattern for our skirt. If you use your measuring tape and a pin, you will not actually have to create a paper pattern, you can sketch out your skirt pieces directly onto your fabric and cut away. I usually use sidewalk chalk since it washes out easily. but any washable marker will do. Refer to the following image. Get out a sheet of paper and sketch out your own so you have a guide. Our pattern relies on four quarter circles- with the back of the skirt combined into a single half circle, and two quarter circles for the front. Once you've assigned the appropriate values its time to trace out your skirt. The best way I've found to do this is to stick a pin in the corner of your fabric and use your measuring tape to form a rudimentary string protractor. you can move along the radius and create an arc that is the quarter hole that will be for your waist. Do the bottom of your skirt the same way- leaving your pin where it is and measuring down your outseam + waist measurement. This should give you a quarter circle on your fabric with a quarter circle hole at the top. Using a pin and your measuring tape as a string protractor. I usually work on carpet- which acts as a great peg-board. Cut out this piece. You will trace it to cut out the rest of your pieces of the skirt. You will need 6 pieces total- both fleece lining and canvas outer. How I lay out my pieces on fabric. Cut the first one (left) and then trace it for your remaining pieces. The center piece forms the back of the skirt and you'll save yourself an extra seam by not cutting it in the center. What about that Dinner Plate you mentioned? I'm so glad you asked. I like to add a curved finish to the front opening of my skirt, so for a nice round neat edge, take your two (four really- you'll do it for both your lining and your outer) quarters- paying attention to orientation if your fabric has a right and a wrong side (they will need to be in opposite corners so you cant just lay out a stack and cut them all together unless you've first faced the pieces opposite eachother) and stick your dinner plate in that corner so it lies tangent to the bottom of the skirt and the straight front edge and trace then cut. Leave your half circle piece as is. Pockets optional- but easy and highly recommended. These don't require any measurements other than what you consider a decent opening size and are sewn directly into the seam of your outer (canvas skirt). I usually decide my aperture to be about the length of my hand- and it works pretty good. I make my pockets out of my fleece fabric so they keep my hands toasty. I like to make my pockets about 11" deep and 6" wide so I can fit a lot in them and I round the edges into a general pocket shape. Sewing the Skirt Now that we have all our skirt pieces cut-out we can sew them into something coherent. The first thing I do is sew in the pockets. To do so lay your pocket pieces on what would be the outside of your skirt (the patterned side if your skirt has a pattern) See diagram- Sew along the aperture (blue line) leaving the outside of the pocket (yellow lines) open. You'll close that up once you've sewn along the side seams. Once you've sewn the apertures of all four half pockets its time to sew the side seams. You'll do this right sides together. Pin first. then sew. Do as the diagram speaks unto you. You'll start that seam where the aperature of your pockets leave off. Sew the same side seams with your fleece. No pockets to worry about this time. Next go sew your pockets into pockets. Here is a helpful video for this whole pocket thing. How to sew seam pockets Alright. Now with both the top and the bottom of your skirt made- its time to sew it together. Lay it right sides together and go to town pinning. Then sew along the bottom edge and center front. Leave the top open. sew the outer canvas to the inner canvas as shown in yellow. Turn right side out. If you want you can tack your outer canvas down to your inner fleece about six inches from the edge. This looks very nice and can be done with a contrast thread to make it pop. Alrighty. Our Skirt part is all done. Time to move onto the waistband. The Waistband Belt Loops First thing to do is make some belt loops. I make five belt loops- two for the front and three for the back. the first time I made a skirt I simply used ribbon, but making your belt loops from your fleece and canvas looks very classy and is quite sturdy. each belt loop will be about 5 inches long by 1.5 inches wide. I usually cut strips of my canvas (25"x1.5") and fleece (25"x1.7") and sew them together then turn inside out and cut every five inches to make my individual belt loops. A little of the lining fabric will show on the edge as a kind of "piping" I also "tack down" the fleece to the canvas as I did with the skirt just in from the edge. Set those belt loops aside, we'll use them in a minute. Waistband Building the waistband is fairly simple. cut two rectangles out of your canvas- they will be long strips "waist measurement + 2.5 inches" x 5 inches. From here, lay your five belt loops where you'd like them to sit on one of your strips,- one in center back, two to either side and two in what would be center front when you fasten the skirt. Pin them in place. Lay the second strip of fabric over it, dead even, and rearrange/add more pins so you can move on to sewing. I will warn this is an unholy amount of fabric for your machine to go through if you don't have a heavy duty machine. Go slow. and try not to cry like I did when you break your fifth heavy duty sewing needle. Sew around the edge like the image below, leaving the bottom of the waistband open so you can attach it in the next step. Sew along the edge leaving the bottom edge open. Turn inside out when done. Sewing the Skirt to the Waistband Remember how we were lamenting the death of our sewing needles previously? It gets worse. Pin the outside of the waistband to the skirt, right sides together (belt loops to where the outside would be). Pin through both the canvas and the fleece layers, and through your belt loops. If you don't have faith in your pins- go and stitch the bottoms of the belt loops down to the waistband. Sew the skirt to the waistband. Next- if you're going with the sew on snaps route- do that now. I usually add a couple layers of scrap canvas as interfacing when I do this. If you're going the Pound-in Snaps method, rejoice in your lazy ingenuity and proceed knowing you saved yourself an hour's work. Alright, the final bit of sewing. If you're using canvas, getting it wet with a spray bottle works just as well as ironing, but fold over the inner edge of the waistband, and pin in place over the seam you just did. I have found that you can machine stitch this down if you use a thread that matches your outer color being careful not to go over your belt loops. However you can also hand stitch it with a felling stitch if you're either a perfectionist or a glutton for punishment. Your skirt is pretty much done. If you went the pound in route for your snaps- go get your hammer. The packaging for those snaps should have the directions included, so I wont outline that here. This one had three brass pound in snaps and looked lovely in coral and navy. Hope this was helpful and everyone makes some beautiful Riding Skirts!
Now with size layers. This is not a printed pattern. This is a digital download. You will receive a link sent to the email used to order. You will receive several files in letter size: How to print, the front and back of the cover, the sewing instructions, and the pattern tiled in color. You will also receive several A0 sizes files: The entire pattern in color with solid lines, and the entire pattern in black and white with dashed lines with size layers. This means you can print the pattern in just the size you want by using a copy shop or tiling the pattern yourself and printing it on your home printer using the "poster" option in Adobe Acrobat. This is a link to the Adobe help page on how to use the poster option: Split Skirt 1890S HORSEBACK RIDING, BICYCLE, OR SPORTING SKIRT, 1940S BIB SKIRT, 1930S BEACH PAJAMAS GAUCHO, PALAZZO, WIDE LEG, AND SAILOR PANTS WITH PATCH POCKETS AND OPTIONAL BIB FRONT -FALL FRONT OR ZIPPER BACK CONSTRUCTION Sewing Pattern with Sizes 6 36, All Included Laughing Moon Mercantile 150 - Ladies Split Skirt, Culottes, or Palazzo Pants: Note: Views A, B, and C have a fully functioning fall front that closes with buttons. This is correct period construction for the 1890s through the 1940s. View D does not have a fall front but has a zipper at center back for modern or easy construction. All Views have a total of eight panels. There are two optional patch pockets on the side fronts. There are two options for length: View B has a shorter length of 31 inches and Views A, C, and D have a length of 40 inches. View A is the long length with the option of a panel that can be buttoned to the front of the skirt to disguise the fact that it is actually a split skirt. Views A and Ds front waistband is at the natural waist. View Bs center front extends upward about 4 inches for a short bib. The bib is held up by suspenders that go over the shoulders and cross in the back and attach at the back waistband. View C is the longer skirt with the center front pieces extending about 10 1/2 inches for a longer bib. The bib is held up with suspenders the same as View B. View D is the longer skirt that does not have a fall front and instead has a center back opening that closes with a zipper. All fabrics for all Views are easiest to construct with a solid color because matching plaids or prints across the 8 panels would be an advanced sewing skill. Or, the panels could be of dissimilar fabrics as a design choice.
Black insulated riding skirt keeps you and your horse warm and comfort. Riding skirt is made of water repellent and windproof fabric that can protect you from cold, rain or snow while riding. Insulated skirt: ➤ Light and warm ➤ Water repellent and windproof fabric ➤ Easy to put on and to take off ➤ Straps for fastening of a skirt on legs ➤ Fabric is easy to clean Please choose size in drop down menu: ➤Size S-M-L: Waist can be adjusted by velcro fastening: 24-41 inch (62-104 cm) Length: 35 inch (89 cm). ➤Size XL-XXL: Waist can be adjusted by velcro fastening: 41-50 inch (104-130 cm) Length: 35 inch (89 cm). 👉Size guidelines👈 If you're on the end of the small size please order the larger size. ✓ Washing instructions: machine wash at 35 degrees, iron at 40 degrees.
Which skirt should I choose? Hands down, this is our most frequently asked question. The answer is always the same: it depends on what you want to do, and when and where you are doing it. Arctic Horse All Weather skirts offer so much versatility: wear them teaching/taking lessons, riding, working outside, running errands, hiking, and going to dinner. These skirts are gorgeous and do their job so you can do yours. All skirts are made in Alaska by women making a living wage, and we use American Made materials as much as possible. Although choosing one skirt can be difficult (imagine choosing only one jacket for all seasons/activities?), being specific about your comfort preferences, and your local environment can really help narrow it down. All of the skirts add a degree of warmth, all are waterproof or water-resistant, and they all serve multiple-functions. That really narrowed it down for you, didn't it? Not to worry, below is a guide to Arctic Horse All Weather Riding skirts, and some of the conditions to consider when choosing your riding skirt. All photos credited to the amazingly talented Gutierrez Photography. Cold-Weather Riding and Working Living in Alaska, the first skirt I dreamt up was insulated, because, did I mention I live in Alaska? We have four seasons here, Almost Winter, Winter, Still Winter, and Construction. See, along with better being able to choose a riding skirt, you now know an Alaska joke, thanks to this post. You're welcome. For very cold conditions, our two warmest skirts are the Full Arctic Insulated Riding Skirt (shown above in plum) and the Narrow Arctic Insulated Riding skirt. Both insulated riding skirts are waterproof, and are equally warm- thanks to 6 ounces of super light, extremely warm insulation insulation doesn't require quilting to stay in place, so there aren't holes all over the skirt to lose heat through same insulation used by the US Military for soldiers, (and it's machine washable). The main differences between the Narrow Arctic Insulated Riding Skirt and the Full Arctic Insulated Riding skirt lie in their construction. The Full Arctic has no rear zipper, and serves as a quarter sheet on your horse's back. The Narrow Arctic Insulated Riding skirt does have a rear zipper, which splits the skirt to only cover the rider's legs while riding. The picture below shows how differently the two skirts look on the horse's back. So, first consideration should be whether you want the skirt to cover the horse's back. My Appaloosa loves the extra warmth on his back, but doesn't need to have it. My friend's Rocky Mountain mare absolutely always requires a quarter sheet for cold weather riding, so her Full Arctic Riding skirt cuts out the need for the quarter sheet, and saves her a step. I prefer riding in the Full Arctic, it's a warm cocoon that captures my horse's heat and transfers it to me. Can't beat that heater! For sheer looks on the ground, the Full Arctic and Narrow Arctic insulated skirts have very different profiles. The Full Arctic has more material, and is more, well... full. The Narrow Arctic Insulated Riding Skirt has a sleeker outline, because it has less material, and a rear zipper. Both are very pretty and flattering. Like all of our skirts, these skirts are easy to put on and take off, thanks to our front two-way zipper that unzips at the top (oh yeah, you can take it on and off while riding your horse, no need to dismount). Or, you can zip the front zipper down to step into it, if you don't feel like completely undoing the whole zipper. Ladies, we made these things easy for you (don't you have enough to wrangle without wrestling with your clothes?). For working around the barn, I prefer the Narrow Arctic Insulated Riding skirt, because it has less material. However, a friend who spends a lot of time on her 4-wheeler around her farm loves the Full Arctic because she doesn't have to unzip the skirt to straddle her machine, and uses the excess material like a cocoon around her legs. Your call, you can work/play/ride in both. Once you wear an insulated skirt you are going to wonder why you allowed your legs to freeze all these long years. Total life changer. Ladies, next on the list of the cold weather skirt train is the Outlander Wool Riding Skirt. Lined with micro-fleece (did you really think I'd put wool against your skin?), this medium weight American wool from humanely sheared sheep will make you feel like you've been transported into 1700's Scotland. It's romantic, it's gorgeous and feminine, it's real, and it will keep you so cozy warm. I mention it's real, because it is so hard to find a true wool skirt these days. I've tried, believe me. Hence, the reason we now we make them. The Outlander Wool Riding Skirt is the Full style, designed to cover the horse's back like a quarter sheet (no rear zipper). Wool is naturally water-resistant, and as a natural fiber, has the ability to breath. The Outlander is so versatile, you can do chores and ride in this skirt, then wear it to the office or out to dinner. You'll turn every head along the way. The fact that you can canter across a field in it can be your little I'm-so-Gone-with-the-Wind- secret. No one at the office is going to believe you that it's a riding skirt anyway (take pictures for proof). Unless you forget to clean it, and you smell like a horse. But, then, that's their problem, because horses smell amazing. The Short Narrow Arctic Riding Skirt is nearly the same as her big sister, the Long Narrow Arctic, except it's shorter- 19,
On your next Tweed Ride, Cycle in a Skirt! You need our pattern for this beautiful ladies' pleated split cycling skirt. Gorgeous pleats front and back enhance the elegance of this sportive garment, based on an original pattern from the 1910s. All 11 sizes (waists 20″ through 40″, hips 34" through 54") are included in one digital download. Also included are assembly instructions, embellishment suggestions, and the extensive historical notes you’ve come to expect from Reconstructing History. Your purchase delivers as a PDF download. Just open and print on your home computer. (Full-size print shop version available upon request.) Suggested Fabrics: worsted wool, whipcord, heavy cotton twill Notions: thread, buttons for front closure Yardage Requirements: 6 yards at least 54" wide (less if piecing) Let us help you! At Reconstructing History, we want to see you wearing the best garments you are capable of making. Email us at info [!at] reconstructinghistory.com and we will answer any questions you might have.
What is the difference between Riding Skirts? Winter Skirt, Rain Skirt and All-weather fleece-based one - we have prepared a brief overview for you! :)
This modern riding skirt (which is inspired the costume aesthetic in the TV show Outlander) will be made exactly to your measurements with a luxurious 100% wool fabric of your choice.The last two i…
Riding skirt for women is made for riding in cold season. This riding clothes keeps you and your horse warm and comfort. Water resistant and windproof outer fabric + insulation protects your legs from cold, rain or snow. ➤ Light and warm equestrian skirt ➤ Easy to put on and to take off Please choose size in drop down menu: ➤Size S-M-L: Waist can be adjusted by velcro fastening: 24-41 inch (62-104 cm) Length: 35 inch (89 cm). ➤Size XL-XXL: Waist can be adjusted by velcro fastening: 41-50 inch (104-130 cm) Length: 35 inch (89 cm). 👉Size guidelines👈 If you're on the end of the small size please order the larger size. ✓ Fabric color may differ slightly from the colors in the photo due to monitor settings. ✓ Washing instructions: machine wash at 35 degrees, iron at 40 degrees.
How to Make a Winter Riding Skirt from Canvas and Fleece Step-by-Step Guide This is my general guide to making a canvas fleece lined riding skirt. This "pattern" will help guide you make a heavy duty washable, daily use circle skirt that is split down the front to keep you and your horse warm. It works a bit like a wearable half sheet. If you have any questions by all means leave a comment and I'll try and answer it to the best of my ability. Supplies: I think there's the guts of about three skirts here. Christmas circa 2017 Yours Truly at about 2am sometime in December regretting her entrepreneurial endeavors. Fleece Fabric 3-4 yards Canvas or other outer fabric of choice 3-4 yards (same amount as Fleece, if you're bigger or taller- get 4 yards, average body type 3.5 will do and smaller as little as 3) A few heavy duty sewing needles for your machine Thread to match canvas/outer fabric. heavy duty recommended snaps- sew on (get 2) or pound in (get 4- this is the speediest/easiest way to go) Large dinner plate (I'll explain. promise.) Measuring tape If your outer fabric is cotton, canvas or you even suspect it might shrink. Go wash it. This is important. Measure your Body You'll want to get a couple of measurements to help you diagram out how you will cut out your pieces. Measure your waist. Measure it with the appropriate number of layers you intend to be wearing. add a smidge extra for the potential for Christmas feasting. Write that number down. Outseam. This is on your pants from the top of your pants/hipbone/where you want your skirt resting to your ankle. If you can't get your outseam- your inseam + 4-5 inches works fine. Hated Math we're going to have to do some So we're going to have to do some circle-ometry. This skirt is a full circle skirt. Don't worry I'll walk you through it. Your waist measurement determines the waistband of your skirt. You'll want to add 2.5 inches to it for overlap for your snaps. In order to diagram out and cut out your pieces we need to determine the radius of the circle that is your waist + 2.5 inches. Circumference (waist measurement + 2.5 inches) = 2* radius* pi. So you can solve for your Radius as r = C/(3.14 x 2) Alternatively: just visit this site and plug in your waist measurement + 2.5 inches into the circumference and take the returning radius value. Circumference Calculator Write down that radius value. We're gonna need that. Alright. you'll need these numbers to get you going: Waist Radius Outseam Waist Radius + Outseam and we'll work out some diagramming. Diagraming and Laying out the Skirt pieces After gathering together all these numbers, we can draw the pattern for our skirt. If you use your measuring tape and a pin, you will not actually have to create a paper pattern, you can sketch out your skirt pieces directly onto your fabric and cut away. I usually use sidewalk chalk since it washes out easily. but any washable marker will do. Refer to the following image. Get out a sheet of paper and sketch out your own so you have a guide. Our pattern relies on four quarter circles- with the back of the skirt combined into a single half circle, and two quarter circles for the front. Once you've assigned the appropriate values its time to trace out your skirt. The best way I've found to do this is to stick a pin in the corner of your fabric and use your measuring tape to form a rudimentary string protractor. you can move along the radius and create an arc that is the quarter hole that will be for your waist. Do the bottom of your skirt the same way- leaving your pin where it is and measuring down your outseam + waist measurement. This should give you a quarter circle on your fabric with a quarter circle hole at the top. Using a pin and your measuring tape as a string protractor. I usually work on carpet- which acts as a great peg-board. Cut out this piece. You will trace it to cut out the rest of your pieces of the skirt. You will need 6 pieces total- both fleece lining and canvas outer. How I lay out my pieces on fabric. Cut the first one (left) and then trace it for your remaining pieces. The center piece forms the back of the skirt and you'll save yourself an extra seam by not cutting it in the center. What about that Dinner Plate you mentioned? I'm so glad you asked. I like to add a curved finish to the front opening of my skirt, so for a nice round neat edge, take your two (four really- you'll do it for both your lining and your outer) quarters- paying attention to orientation if your fabric has a right and a wrong side (they will need to be in opposite corners so you cant just lay out a stack and cut them all together unless you've first faced the pieces opposite eachother) and stick your dinner plate in that corner so it lies tangent to the bottom of the skirt and the straight front edge and trace then cut. Leave your half circle piece as is. Pockets optional- but easy and highly recommended. These don't require any measurements other than what you consider a decent opening size and are sewn directly into the seam of your outer (canvas skirt). I usually decide my aperture to be about the length of my hand- and it works pretty good. I make my pockets out of my fleece fabric so they keep my hands toasty. I like to make my pockets about 11" deep and 6" wide so I can fit a lot in them and I round the edges into a general pocket shape. Sewing the Skirt Now that we have all our skirt pieces cut-out we can sew them into something coherent. The first thing I do is sew in the pockets. To do so lay your pocket pieces on what would be the outside of your skirt (the patterned side if your skirt has a pattern) See diagram- Sew along the aperture (blue line) leaving the outside of the pocket (yellow lines) open. You'll close that up once you've sewn along the side seams. Once you've sewn the apertures of all four half pockets its time to sew the side seams. You'll do this right sides together. Pin first. then sew. Do as the diagram speaks unto you. You'll start that seam where the aperature of your pockets leave off. Sew the same side seams with your fleece. No pockets to worry about this time. Next go sew your pockets into pockets. Here is a helpful video for this whole pocket thing. How to sew seam pockets Alright. Now with both the top and the bottom of your skirt made- its time to sew it together. Lay it right sides together and go to town pinning. Then sew along the bottom edge and center front. Leave the top open. sew the outer canvas to the inner canvas as shown in yellow. Turn right side out. If you want you can tack your outer canvas down to your inner fleece about six inches from the edge. This looks very nice and can be done with a contrast thread to make it pop. Alrighty. Our Skirt part is all done. Time to move onto the waistband. The Waistband Belt Loops First thing to do is make some belt loops. I make five belt loops- two for the front and three for the back. the first time I made a skirt I simply used ribbon, but making your belt loops from your fleece and canvas looks very classy and is quite sturdy. each belt loop will be about 5 inches long by 1.5 inches wide. I usually cut strips of my canvas (25"x1.5") and fleece (25"x1.7") and sew them together then turn inside out and cut every five inches to make my individual belt loops. A little of the lining fabric will show on the edge as a kind of "piping" I also "tack down" the fleece to the canvas as I did with the skirt just in from the edge. Set those belt loops aside, we'll use them in a minute. Waistband Building the waistband is fairly simple. cut two rectangles out of your canvas- they will be long strips "waist measurement + 2.5 inches" x 5 inches. From here, lay your five belt loops where you'd like them to sit on one of your strips,- one in center back, two to either side and two in what would be center front when you fasten the skirt. Pin them in place. Lay the second strip of fabric over it, dead even, and rearrange/add more pins so you can move on to sewing. I will warn this is an unholy amount of fabric for your machine to go through if you don't have a heavy duty machine. Go slow. and try not to cry like I did when you break your fifth heavy duty sewing needle. Sew around the edge like the image below, leaving the bottom of the waistband open so you can attach it in the next step. Sew along the edge leaving the bottom edge open. Turn inside out when done. Sewing the Skirt to the Waistband Remember how we were lamenting the death of our sewing needles previously? It gets worse. Pin the outside of the waistband to the skirt, right sides together (belt loops to where the outside would be). Pin through both the canvas and the fleece layers, and through your belt loops. If you don't have faith in your pins- go and stitch the bottoms of the belt loops down to the waistband. Sew the skirt to the waistband. Next- if you're going with the sew on snaps route- do that now. I usually add a couple layers of scrap canvas as interfacing when I do this. If you're going the Pound-in Snaps method, rejoice in your lazy ingenuity and proceed knowing you saved yourself an hour's work. Alright, the final bit of sewing. If you're using canvas, getting it wet with a spray bottle works just as well as ironing, but fold over the inner edge of the waistband, and pin in place over the seam you just did. I have found that you can machine stitch this down if you use a thread that matches your outer color being careful not to go over your belt loops. However you can also hand stitch it with a felling stitch if you're either a perfectionist or a glutton for punishment. Your skirt is pretty much done. If you went the pound in route for your snaps- go get your hammer. The packaging for those snaps should have the directions included, so I wont outline that here. This one had three brass pound in snaps and looked lovely in coral and navy. Hope this was helpful and everyone makes some beautiful Riding Skirts!
