Read all the item description before checkout. Orders CANNOT be cancelled. International shipment. USA: Takes 3 to 8 weeks to deliver after dispatch Other countries: May take 2 to 3 months to deliver (because of the Pandemic) (many airlines cancelled routes) Package includes: Drill Point drill pen Dotting cement Sheng drill plate Tweezers Embroidered cloth Diamonds bag Choose Round or Square diamonds 100% brand new and high quality Renderings for reference only, The size to prevail in kind The diamond paintings are semi-finished products, dont include frames! This is DIY diamond painting, not finished picture, need you finish it by yourself Diamond cover the canvas complete, it is 100% full diamond embroidery Unique beauty and fashion design Perfect to decorate your living room or bedroom to match different decoration style Style: 5D Diamond Painting Quantity: 1 Set DIY Diamond painting production steps: 1. Open the box and check the diamond draw special tools. 2. View the resin diamond color, arranged in order of coding. 3. Uncover tape drawing above, you will see a lot of symbols corresponding to the color coding. 4. According to the corresponding color coded clamp the corresponding the resin inlaid diamonds. 5. Suggested that one type of the resin diamond one set completed faster. 6. In order to create a perfect diamond painting, drawings put together in one place every row symbols do not have to stay stuck diamonds. 7. To cut a good figure on the drawings hold sorted array mounted to the plane of the material above. 8. Splices need flat against the neat, do not have cracks. 9. After a good fight, the rest of the gap at the glue corresponding symbols of diamonds. 10. To complete a good diamond drawing, put it in your selection of a suitable framework (the restaurant does not provide a framework). Tips: 1. The resin diamond inedible, do not let children play in order to avoid accidents such as swallowing. 2. Drawing need to be kept clean, otherwise, the adhesive strength is affected. If there is dirt adhesion can influence them with low-temperature solid iron. 3. Diamonds to remain sticky gum tightness. Note: Size for manual measurement, there may be a 0 to 2 cm error, belongs to the normal phenomenon. And due to the difference between different monitors, the picture may not reflect the actual color of the item. Thank you! USA: Takes 3 to 8 weeks to deliver after dispatch Other countries: May take 2 to 3 months to deliver (because of the Pandemic) (many airlines cancelled routes) We dont ship to Argentina, Brazil, Costa Rica, India, Nigeria, South Africa and Venezuela

Cowboys and Angels is a triangular shawl worked flat from the top down. The garter stitch body is framed by trellis pattern bands and bobbles. Easy trellis pattern and relaxing garter stitch make this a fun and entertaining knit… a versatile, but special, companion for everyday.Original Yarn Hedgehog Fibres Merino DK (219 yds/200 m per 115 g) 4 skeins, shown in color Pollen Or approximately 875 yds (800 m) of a similar yarn.Gauge 15.5 sts x 32 rows = 4 x 4” (10 x 10 cm) in Garter stitch on US 7 (4.5 mm) needles after blocking. 16 sts x 32 rows = 4 x 4” (10 x 10 cm) in Trellis pattern on US 7 (4.5 mm) needles after blocking. Gauge is not crucial for this project but will affect yardage and final size when different.Size Approximately 31.5” (80 cm) deep along center, 79” (201 cm) wingspan from tip to tip.

did you know it is eight years since i started tippity tapping away here on my shiny happy place. i went way back and found my first post. i really truly had no idea what i was doing, nor where i was going and those were perhaps the happiest times of my rambling blogging journey. and it is without doubt, if it were not for my blog and you dearest readers i would not have done so many wonderful things, met so many wonderful peachy dearies and grown in so many wonderful ways. i spent many happy times, regaling whoever may happen to wish to read, clan moments, critter moments, crafty moments, thrifting moments and any other moments that i chose to share. and it goes without saying, there have been many other moments i did not share. some pants, some peachy. gosh this does sound like it is turning into a farewell swan song, which is not my intention, for this is written not with sadness but happiness in my heart. i am happy to be leaving this lovely shiny place just as it is, for anyone who may care to visit or stumble upon me. however i have decided it is time to retire my blogging hat, carefully placing it back in my kitchen drawer and to continue treading the path i have started out upon in recent times. you will find me happily woolly tattooing and making little knits in preparation for my online 'atelier of sorts for small beings & grown~ups' opening later in the year. i will of course still be found over on facebook as and when nitty gritty things and photos need to be shared and you will find me daily in my happy place over on instagram. in a few months i have high hopes my new shiny online home will be all set up, a place for folks to visit and see what handmade wares i have for sale, all made slowly, with beautiful yarns and vintage materials. in my head i am seeing it as a happy heirloom collection of sorts and in my hands, those thoughts are slowly but surely coming together and so before i close the final floral curtain upon this rambling and at times, bumbling stage, can i just say, i have been nothing but humbled by the kindness of others who came through the life i shared for the past 8 years. you shared my laughter, you shared my joy, you shared my pain and you shared my tears. how truly lucky am i in life to have had all this and more. and if this is it, if this is as good as it gets, then that is a~okay with me. for i have been blessed, and i will never feel quite so loved again and okay to be me, as the times i rambled on here and you choose to listen. thank you, thank you kindly dearest readers, old ones, new ones, furry ones and fruity cake ones. it may look like the end, but i assure you, it is not it truly really is not. the end this is just the beginning ...

Angel Baby Gowns and Burial Wraps, preemie clothing, NICU gowns

These stays are certainly the most complex cording project I've done, so I wanted to share how I've been going about it! First off, I'm using a totally different cording method than the ones shown in my Making a Corded Petticoat post. In both methods shown in that tutorial, the cord was put in place first and its channel was sewn around it. Those methods work just fine for a corded petticoat, but won't work very well for these stays. Instead, I'm sewing channels into the fabric first, then inserting the cording afterwards. As a reminder, this is the pattern I'm working with: Fabric Prep Since the criss-cross cording is the most difficult part of these stays, that's what we'll focus on. Each of the squares that make up the criss-cross pattern are only 0.25" wide, so they're very small and difficult to sew accurately. The space between each square forms the channel that the cord threads through. I'm using a green shot cotton as the pretty outer fashion layer of the stays, with two layers of thin but tightly woven white cotton as the strength layers. My stitches will go through all three layers of fabric, but the cording will be run between the two white layers of cotton. The first challenge was figuring out how to mark the stitching guidelines on the fabric. I could have made all the markings on the back of each piece, but I find that the top side of my stitching often looks a bit more precise than the back, so I needed a way to mark the green fabric so that I could stitch accurately, but not have the markings visible later. Squares marked with water soluble pen, with a penny for scale. At first I tried using a water soluble fabric marker that had a relatively fine tip. It showed up very well on the fabric, but since it is a marker and the fabric wicked the ink out a bit, the line it left was fairly thick. The thicker line made it very hard to see where exactly to stitch. Some of my test squares were more parallelogram than square, and the width of the squares varied between 5/16" and 3/16" wide. It may seem like I'm being overly picky, but that is a difference of 1/8", which means I was off in some areas by the width of half of a square! When working at such a small scale, even a little bit of deviation becomes extremely obvious. Wibbly wobbly stitching due to wide fabric marker guidelines. I considered using a fine mechanical pencil to draw more precise, accurate lines, but there were two potential issues. One, I was worried it wouldn't wash off well, leaving me with pencil lines all over my stays. Two, it's actually pretty hard to draw an accurate line on this fabric with a mechanical pencil, as the pressure of the lead warps and distorts the fabric as you're trying to draw. Can't draw a straight line b/c the pressure of the lead warps the fabric. Luckily, I was able to solve both issues at once with my favorite secret weapon: Mah super-sekrit weapon. Shh, don't tell! Starch has saved my butt on many a sewing project. Here, it serves two purposes. First, it stiffens the fabric so that it is almost paper-like, so now I can easily draw on it using the mechanical pencil without the fabric distorting. Now I can get perfectly straight, thin, highly accurate stitching lines! With starched fabric, no distortion! Comparison of marker lines vs mechanical pencil lines. Second, thanks to Lifeofglamour's various experiments with tinting starch for use on ruffs, I know that very often, pigments and dirt that are mixed in with or sitting on top of starch wash out without staining the fabric. When I tested this theory on my fabric, washing the starch out washed the pencil marks down the drain too! You can buy spray on starch or the liquid kind you dip your fabric into from the store, but thanks to Frolicking Frocks (dude, check out those petticoats!) I'm a convert to making my own out of cornstarch. My test stitching proves much more straight and accurate with the pencil guidelines, and after washing all evidence of the pencil lead is gone! Now that I've got that settled, the last step before stitching is to use a lightbox to trace my design onto the fabric. Stitching My original plan was to hand-stitch the stays, but I came to my senses after attempting a sample. I tried using my modern sewing machine, but it's very hard to stitch a line precisely 0.25" and stop in exactly the right place using the pedal control, so I pulled out the little Singer 99 hand crank machine I refurbished a few years ago instead. Remember this one? Isn't she pretty? With a hand crank, it's really easy to stop right at the exact number of stitches you want. A lot of fiddling and several tests later, I settled on a stitch length calibrated to precisely 1/16 of an inch, giving me squares that were 4 stitches wide on each side. Getting the correct stitch size is no mean feat on these old machines, since you set the length by screwing an unlabeled knob in or out as needed. That knob is the stitch length regulator. Notice the distinct lack of numbers or any useful markings of any sort? Now that I've got the length set, sewing each square is now as easy as starting the needle in the right place, sewing 4 stitches, sinking the needle on the 4th stitch, raising the presser foot, turning the fabric, putting the foot down again, sewing 4 more stitches, etc, all the way around the square. This leaves a bunch of thread tails all over the place. Of course I can't just trim them because the stitching would come out, so the loose threads are pulled to the back and tied off. Since I'm a bit paranoid about the knots coming undone, I put a dot of Fray-Check on each to prevent unraveling. Remember to test the Fray-Check on an inconspicuous spot first! My layers are thin, and on the first few knots I used too much and it soaked through to the front. Threads pulled to the back for tying. At first I was tying the threads after each square, but it's more efficient to sew several squares, then flip to the back and start pulling through/tying off. The problem with doing it that way is that those loose tails get in the way of stitching, and if you sew through the tail of a square a few rows down it's a mess to untangle. Luckily, I'm owned by two exceedingly furry felines, and thus have a clothing de-furring brush that doubles as a way to clear all my loose threads off to one side with a single swipe. Guess the fuzzbeasts are good for something. There's something like 200 tiny squares on just ONE front panel, plus more on each side panel, so you can see why this has been taking me a while! Cording After washing the starch out, drying, and pressing each piece, it's FINALLY time to stuff some cord in there. I'm using the same Sugar n' Cream cotton cord that I used in my corded petticoat. You'll want a cord of a width that fits fairly snugly in your channels, so choose accordingly, or stitch your channels to accommodate the cord you wish to use. I'm using a thick, blunt needle with a wide eye. Tapestry needles are perfect. The eye should be large enough that the cord just fits through it, but not so big that the needle won't fit through your channels with the now doubled cord in tow. I also have a pair needle nose pliers, because despite my best efforts, the eye of my needle still gets stuck in the fabric sometimes. When I made my last pair of corded stays, I broke the only good needle I had and swapped to one that was nearly the same, only sharp instead of blunt. It sorta worked, but the sharp tip kept shredding the fabric on both sides, and those scrapes later unraveled into larger holes, allowing the cord to poke out. I wouldn't have minded if they were all on the inside, but most of them were on the pretty outside! If all you can get is a sharp needle, grind the tip down. Holes in channels caused by sharp needle shredding fabric. Sadly, these are on the front, so they show when I wear it. On the backside of the stays, I poke the needle through just one layer of fabric right at the start of a channel. Since the needle is blunt, with some fabrics an awl is needed to start the hole. It takes a bit of practice to get the tip to go through just one layer of fabric, but practice makes perfect, right? Using an awl to start the hole. Threading the needle into the channel. Once inside, the needle is pushed down the length of the channel, dragging the cord behind it. It's tight, and I have to moosh (super technical term) and manipulate the fabric around the needle to move it along. Sometimes the pliers are necessary to pull the needle through the channel too. The eye is stuck at the entry to the channel, so I use pliers to help it along. At the opposite end, I poke the tip of the needle back out through the back fabric and pull it out, taking care to not pull all the cording out with it! The pliers are also super useful here, as the eye of the needle generally gets stuck on the way out. All the pushing and pulling on the needle is pretty rough on my fingers; using the pliers instead solves that problem. The downside is that I'm more likely to break a needle when pulling on it with the pliers. It's easier on my fingers to just use the pliers to pull the needle out. I don't trim the cord close to the fabric just yet; instead I cut it so there's about 1" still hanging out, then move on to the other channels. The places where the cords cross are a bit tricky to get through, but it's doable. Eventually I end up with a small forest of cord ends growing out of the back of the stays. Well that's a right mess. Once I've got a whole section done, I start trimming the stray tails. I cut the cord pretty close to the fabric, but not right flush with it. There are till some tiny tails hanging out. Trimmed close, with just a little bit hanging out. Then, without holding onto the cord, I tug on both ends of the channel, stretching the fabric slightly. Most of the tails pop back into their holes and disappear. A few are still sticking out a bit, but this is the inside of the garment, so I don't care overmuch. Gently stretching each channel. There are still holes at the start and end of each channel, but again, it's the inside, and they close up a little with time anyways. No more tails! Wow, that got lengthy! If any part of this tutorial isn't clear, let me know and I'll try to unmuddy it a bit. If you've got a cool cording project you're working on, show us in the comments! I've still got a few panels to go, so I'm off to the sewing table again for another late night.

For pattern support please go to the questions thread here. update 04/01: typo correction German translation Cowboys and Angels is a triangular shawl worked flat from the top down. The garter stitch body is framed by trellis pattern bands and bobbles. Easy trellis pattern and relaxing garter stitch make this a fun and entertaining knit… a versatile, but special, companion for everyday. Yarn Hedgehog Fibres Merino DK (219 yds/200 m per 115 g) 4 skeins, shown in color Pollen Or approximately 875 yds (800 m) of a similar yarn. Needles US 7 (4.5 mm) circular needle, 40” (100 cm) long or size needed to get gauge. Gauge 15.5 sts x 32 rows = 4 x 4” (10 x 10 cm) in Garter stitch on US 7 (4.5 mm) needles after blocking. 16 sts x 32 rows = 4 x 4” (10 x 10 cm) in Trellis pattern on US 7 (4.5 mm) needles after blocking. Gauge is not crucial for this project but will affect yardage and final size when different. Size Approximately 31.5” (80 cm) deep along center, 79” (201 cm) wingspan from tip to tip. Materials 4 stitch markers, tapestry needle, blocking tools.

It's not every day that a mistake turns in to a Eureka! moment, but luckily yesterday was that kind of a day. Petticoat cartridge pleated to waistband. If you need a neat, historically accurate way to cram 5+ yards of fabric into a teeny tiny waistband, cartridge pleating is your insane but awesome friend. I LOVE the look and extra volume cartridge pleats give skirts and petticoats, but they are labor intensive and take forever and a day to do. If this type of pleat is a new thing to you, check out Historical Sewing's tutorial on how to make cartridge pleats here, and you'll see what I mean about how time consuming they are! Since I wanted as much floof and poof as possible for my 1830's tucked petticoat, cartridge pleats were really the only way to go. I pulled out the partially finished petticoat and resigned myself to spending an hour or more painstakingly marking out the usual dotted guides for stitching. Only then did I notice that I had made the silly mistake of flat felling the back seam all the way up to the top, leaving no opening for getting in and out of the petticoat. Curses! Out came the seamripper, and out came the stitches. But look what they left behind on my nicely starched fabric... Usually this is a bad thing. Extremely clear needle marks that could possibly act as stitching guides. Of course, the holes left by the two separate lines of stitching don't match up, but what if I used a double needle and stitched two rows of marks at the same time? Now with twice the stabbing power! I've got a pretty big double needle meant for topstitching jeans that was left over from a failed pintucking experiment. The needles are spaced about 1/4" apart, which is a little close for cartridge pleating, but totally workable. Since the double needle is meant for heavy denim, the needles are quite thick and sturdy, which means they'll leave pretty clear holes on certain types of fabric. I popped the double needle in my sewing machine and set the stitch length to the longest possible stitch. I only wanted the marks left by the needle, so I took the bobbin out and unthreaded the machine, then stitched all the way around the top of the petticoat, keeping the right needle about 1/4" away from the edge of the fabric. It worked! Clear, even marks that are perfectly aligned, and it only took a minute or two to do the whole top edge of the petticoat! The largest stitch my machine can make is about 1/8" long, which was a bit small for what I had in mind. However, it's really quite simple to skip every other dot, or more for wider pleats. I've stitched a sample with red thread so that it's easier to see, though of course you'd use a matching color. Sadly, this method won't work for all fabrics; only those that will show the marks left by the needle will do, so YMMV. The marks are extra clear on my cotton petticoat fabric because it's been starched within an inch of its life and is practically paper-like. I tried a sample of wool fabric, but the holes closed right back up. Wool experiment fail. However, silk taffeta worked splendidly, as did various types of crisp cottons. Silk taffeta works! I still have another hour or so of hand-sewing each individual pleat to the waistband ahead of me, but using this trick shaved off more than a third of the total time it takes me to complete cartridge pleats, so I'd call it a win!

Please read the entire page carefully before you buy! It is NOT a kit, floss and fabric NOT included Premium counted cross stitch chart. Stitches: 200w x 400h Finished Size : 14 count: 14.3” X 28.6”; 36.3 cm X 72.6 cm 18 count: 11.1” X 22.2”; 28.2 cm X 56.4 cm 22 count: 9.09” X 18.2”; 23.1 cm X 46.4 cm Color: 90 (charted for DMC floss); uses solid floss colors, All stitches are full Stitches. No half stitches or back stitching. Black & White PDF electronic Pattern chart with Symbols. Picture shows stitched results, not original art. You can download your pattern immediately after the payment. DISCLAIMER: Due to the limitations & inconsistencies of various display monitors, the colors you see on your screen may not be a totally accurate reproduction of the actual product. Screen images are intended as a guide only and should not be regarded as absolutely correct. This chart has been designed and printed with our best intentions of being without mistakes. However, the possibility of human error, printing mistakes or the variation of individual stitching does exist, and we regret that we cannot be responsible for this.

Listing is for a cross stitch pattern. Welcome to our shop, where we do our best to leave you in stitches! Enjoy a more modern take on a classic pastime with our fun, fine art series of cross stitch patterns. Great art decor based on Winged Figure painting. Only full stitches are required to make this project, which also makes it a perfect beginner cross stitch pattern for those who want to try their hand at a full coverage piece. Comes in both pdf and word format. 175 x 247 work area or 9.72 x 13.72 inches on 18 count fabric Instant pdf download comes with: color and symbol cross stitch pattern symbol pattern a short guide for stitching Image to use as a reference Floss color chart Please don't hesitate to ask questions and Happy Stitching:) All of our patterns are for personal use only and are copyrighted 2021 4stitchesandgiggles.

Embroidered Canvas book, pictorial angel and floral motif with two red ribbons. The Booke of Common Prayer (London, 1611) Collection: The British Library

Counted Cross Stitch Pattern "Amur Arrow, Hans Zatzka" If needed, I can assemble the materials and threads. If you're interested write me a personal message. With your purchase you will receive: a pattern with black and white symbols a symbol key page in DMC floss code The first photo is the original work of the artist, last photo shows the result of the finished piece. Size ( on 18 count fabric): 63,5 * 95 cm 450 * 673 stitches 55 colors and 110 blends (DMC).

Counted Cross Stitch Pattern "Spring Fantasy, Hans Zatzka" If needed, I can assemble the materials and threads. If you're interested write me a personal message. With your purchase you will receive: a pattern with black and white symbols a symbol key page in DMC floss code The first photo is the original work of the artist, last photo shows the result of the finished piece. Size ( on 18 count fabric): 360 * 713 stitches 57 colors and 107 blends (DMC) 50,8 * 100,6 cm