Dremel 7300-PT vs 7350-PET vs 7760-PGK Comparison - the differences, similarities, & features of each, as well as which one might be best
Once I got started making himmeli-inspired shapes, I couldn’t stop. The only thing that stopped me from making brass versions of the other straw prototypes I came up with was that my hands were sore from cutting too many brass tubes. But this morning it occurred to me that a cutting wheel on a Dremel […]
Dry fit for the windows, doors & panels. (the plastic film is still on the windows) I need to trim & adjust the positioning then add the...
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The leading dremels of 2024 will help you make beautiful wood carvings with ease. Learn more with this handy buyer's guide.
I have a beautiful wooden spoon, one of my favorite things in my kitchen. It was carved by hand and because of that, it was expensive. Totally worth it, in my view, but a once in a lifetime purchase for me. Every now and then I wish I could afford to give one as a gift but cost prohibits. So when I stumbled on an old article from Mother Earth News on how to carve your own wooden spoon, I was intrigued.
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Could you please do a sigil on appearing glowing, ethereal and beautiful? “I appear glowing, ethereal, and beautiful” sigil
Here is a guide on how I designed and built the orrery. At a later stage I will put together a pdf containing all of these. Feel free to use...
The best Dremel tool for modelling (scale model making & building, & modification), & also miniatures (inc. figurines & action figures)
There is one tool that is probably more useful than most of the other tools put together and that of course is the Dremel. This article tells you more about your new Dremel 3000 tool, the accessories that come with it and how to use it.
These wooden potato mashers and porridge spurtles were commissioned by an elderly Scottish chap looking to give presents to his family. I made 7 of each as requested. The design of the potato masher was described to me, and luckily I managed to see a nice example (no touching allowed mind you), in the Welsh Museum of Rural Life just before I started to make them. The green wood I used was fresh maple, some lovely green tinged cherry, and a whiter cherry. I turned a variety of handle shapes and mashing ends as the wood allowed on the pole lathe. All are approximately 18" tall. The mashing ends are about 3" diameter. They would probably also be useful for tenderizing your nearest and dearest in the kitchen. (Joke) The design of the porridge spurtle was a copy of his own that he'd used for the last 40 years. He made porridge every day, or every other day, letting it rest - I can't remember which. His own spurtle had worn down 1" shorter than it should have been, and so his hand was getting too close to the cooking pot. The practical feature of this design is that the ball rests comfortably above your hand, as if holding a pen. He also insisted that the ends should taper. I made a variety of designs as the wood dictated. Five were turned from pear wood and another three from cherry. One of the pear spurtles had a peculiar kink at the top when it dried out, since the thin point above the ball sat on a knot. I had meant to keep this one for myself but somehow he ended up getting a bonus spurtle. Lucky old him! Everything was burnished with greenwood shavings from the lathe and oiled with culinary linseed oil a few times. I was very pleased with the finished work.
As I am now getting ready to think about transporting my Nyckelharpa I have started working towards getting the outlines marked out. The first move was to use a cello peg reamer to open out the straight drilled peg holes in the Neck and Reinforcement Plate. One small note for future plans: I had the holes drilled out to 8mm, but it would have saved me half an evening if I drilled them out to 10mm first. Hey-ho. Ok, so I cheated. I bought ready made Cello Tuning Pegs because it was a lot cheaper than buying the tools to shape the wood blocks I have. I have also push fitted the two rows of Guitar Tuners for the Sympathetic Strings. This means I can now start working out what size transport case I need. I have found my Keys! I took the Left Keyguide (top in the picture) off and worked my way along the one end of each of the ten 'C' Keys. The Keys were roughly cut down to shape on the Dremel saw and then I cut and sanded them down to fit the slots. They need to be loose enough to slide freely and account for any humidity that might cause them to swell and get stuck. Then I started the same process at the other end. Exciting isn't it! Alright - maybe not. Once I had the first key done I had to test fit it properly of course! In just a week I was able to get all ten 'C' keys fitted at the other end too. The finger ends need some tidying up especially 8 and 9 that are almost touching each other. It is traditional to make pretty shapes out of these and I'm not planning on skipping that although I might not get too over the top with it. Now I have to start the whole process again with the twenty 'A' Keys, three of which present their own special challenge of crossing the two layers of keys. That said, I think I'm going to be concentrating on the Tailpiece for the next week and then I'll face the 'A's. In other news; Last weekend I went to Halsway Manor again where Vicki Swan was hosting a Nyckelharpa Festival Weekend. This provided an oppertunity to meet like minded people and see a concert by the very talented Josefina Paulson and Torbjörn Näsbom. I think it might a while before I reach their level! Speaking of which... Having played two notes on a Nyckelharpa in March, I now have a first lesson booked for 18th November, and I'm booked in for Vicki's Beginner's Weekend at Halsway Manor in March. In the mean time let's see what the next week brings.
