La princesa es fiel a su silueta 'corola' mientras su hermana innova con un vestido 'wrap'

Gestern backte ich meine erste "Auftragstorte" - eine Tauftorte für den Neffen eines Freundes! Hätte ich bei der zusage vor einiger Zeit...

Moooooin, letztens habe ich ja so beiläufig erwähnt, dass ich versucht habe, meine allerersten Karten zur Konfirmation / Kommunion zu werkeln und das ich nicht wirklich mit dem Endergebnis zufrieden war und mir auch zum Teil die zündelnde Idee fehlte. Bin da ja leider immer sehr Selbstkritisch und diese Eigenschaft steht mir so manches Mal im Weg. Aber wie letztens schon erwähnt, dieses Thema liegen mir absolut gar nicht. Die heutigen Karten sind (denke ich) zeigetauglich und gefallen mir recht gut. Eine habe ich bewußt ohne Kirchliche Symbole gelassen. In meinem Stempelgewusel habe ich für dieses Thema auch nur zwei Schriftstempel, die ich mir extra erst zugelegt habe und Symbole fehlen mir völlig. Man sollte ja von allem etwas haben, aber das kommt nach und nach. Eines möchte ich eben noch los werden. Ich bedanke mich ganz herzlich bei euch für die vielen lieben Kommentare! Es freut mich sehr, dass dieses kleine Giveaway so gut bei euch ankam. In der nächsten Woche kann es sein, dass ihr kaum etwas von mir hören werdet. Mein Mann hat Urlaub und wir wollen so einiges hier im und am Haus ausmisten und aufräumen. Da wird wohl etwas die Zeit für das liebste Hobby fehlen ;c) So, genug gequatscht, hier sind die Ergebnisse. Ein wunderschönes Wochenende wünsche ich euch und sende ganz liebe Grüße aus dem kalten und windigen Wilhelmshaven. Eure Jenny Material: CS: Flüsterweiß und Wasabigrün von SU Pergamentpapier von SU Stempelfarben: Wasabigrün, Pazifikblau, Zartblau, Himbeerrot, Glutrot, Wassermelone, Kürbisgelb, Osterglocke Den Schriftzug habe ich ausgedruckt. Die Kreise habe ich aus dem Restmaterial von einem SU Stempelset ausgestanzt. Dazu wurde die BigShot und die Kreise #2 von SU benutzt. Material: CS: Saharasand und Petrol von SU Dünner graumelierter Farbkarton vom Hagebaumarkt DP: "Silhouetten" von SU Dekoband in Petrol von ALDI Hintergrundstempel: En Francais von SU Spruchstempel: Alexandra Renke Manufaktur Stempelfarbe: Anthrazitgrau und Petrol von SU Zarter Zweig, Sizzlitz Formen von SU

Hier im Shop - www.hansemann.de - findest Ihr alle verwendeten Materialien - klick!

Dimensional ceremonial replica goblet measures approx. 8” tall x 4” wide x 3.75” deep. Pair with grapes 3d cluster with leaves to use as a decoration for a first communion celebration, or other special occasions. Stem can be reinforced with a .75” dowel segment. ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes: A base hexagon B stem C bowl wedges (6) D bowl rim strips (6) E bowl neck reinforcement F knob G base contour wedges (6) H bowl interior masking wedges (6) I center stem opening mask J IHS medallion and base shapes NOTE: Two slightly different gold shades were used to cut the shapes: A, B, D & E are slightly brighter gold. 2. Prepare the stem by folding on vertical perforation lines to form a tube. Fold top flange tabs back slightly. 3. Overlap the plain long side edge to the opposite tab perforation line and glue side seam. NOTE: it is possible to fold the stem shape flat during the seam gluing process, then shape it back into a tube. 4. Prepare the base hexagon shape by folding the sides back on the perforation lines and the tab lines. Fold the small triangular tabs back between the side sections. Push the center hex tabs inward. 5. Form the base into a box by bringing the plain side short edge to overlap at the adjacent tab perforation line and glue in place. Repeat for all 6 seams. 6. Fold the base long edge tabs under and glue in place. During the gluing process it will help to secure the tabs flat and completely adhered by . . . . . . using a flat slightly pointed tool such as this spatula to work the tab corners to be glued crisp and flat. 7. Insert the top of the stem pole through the base hex center opening . . . . . . and move the base hex all the way to the bottom of the stem pole. NOTE that the bottom of the stem should line up exactly with the straight bottom edge of the center hole tabs. This will put the bottom of the stem even with the base hex edges as they sit on the table top surface and provide stability for the chalice base. 8. Bend the base tabs back slightly to apply glue between tabs and stem pole. Replace and apply pressure to attach. 9. If desired, it is recommended that a 3/4" diameter wood dowel length be inserted into the stem pole tube to provide strength to the chalice. Insert the dowel end to the perforation at the top tab, then mark length exactly at the end of the stem tube. 10. Cut the dowel to size, then reinsert. Apply adhesive to the inside of the tube as feasible to help the dowel stay securely in place. Make sure the dowel bottom is even with the tube bottom. 11. Prepare the bowl wedges by folding side tabs back, folding on the horizontal contour perforation lines. 12. Join the first two wedges by lining up the straight side edges of each contour level to the corresponding tab perforation line of the adjacent level. Work on one level or strata at a time, applying pressure until secure, then bending to align the next level, and so forth until all five strata are aligned and joined. 13. Continue adding a wedge to the previous assembly in the same manner until all six wedges are joined. 14. Complete the final bowl side seam by overlapping the final plain edges to the corresponding tab perf lines as previously done. 15. Prepare the rim strips by folding in half on the long perforation line, and also bending the end tab back slightly. 16. Position and glue the first strip in place wrapped over the bowl top edge, with the strip (without the end tab) centered over one wedge section. The right straight end should line up with the wedge-to-wedge seam. NOTE: make sure the end tab remains free and un-glued. The final rim strip will be inserted under the tab, then it will be glued. 17. Continue to position the remaining five rim strips and glue in place, tucking the straight right end under the left tab of the previously-placed rim strip. Once the added strip is secure, glue the overlapping end tab down. 18. Prepare the base contour wedges by folding the side tabs back slightly. Also fold the horizontal perf lines: bottom folds back as a mountain fold; remaining two folds are valley folds. 19. Join the contour wedges in a fashion similar to the way bowl wedges were joined. First join two wedge sections, then continue adding the remaining wedges until . . . . . . the final wedge seam remains. Overlap, align edge to perf line and glue tabs in place. 20. Insert the stem pole through the contour tube. Align and insert the bottom tab pairs with the slot pairs on each section of the hex base. 21. On the base underside, bend the tabs back toward the hex edge and glue in place. 22. Prepare the knob shape by folding bottom curved tabs back (valley fold), and all other folds as mountain folds, including the small triangular tabs between each upper and lower wedge sections. 23. Shape the knob by joining seams between sections: overlap the short straight edge to the perf line of the adjacent tab and glue in place. Shown here is the first of the top seams. Also complete the seams for the bottom seams, shown here. 24. Complete the final seam by bringing straight end edges overlap at the opposite end tab perf lines. Line up the center, top and bottom sections, one at a time, and glue in place to create a knob tube. 25. Slide the knob tube over the top of the stem and move down as far as easily possible, just to place it out of the way for the time being. 26. Insert the stem top tabs end into the bottom of the bowl hex opening . . . . . . and adjust until the tab perf lines each line up with the straight edge of a corresponding straight edge of the bowl hex opening. Apply glue to the tabs, press back, centered in the wedge section, and apply pressure until secure. NOTE: a critical action in this point in the process is to make sure that the bowl is attached well to the stem tabs, AND that the bowl rim is parallel with the base bottom/table top surface, with bowl evenly perpendicular to the table top surface. Use any "squaring-up" tool available to check and adjust immediately while the glue is still curing. Brace, if necessary, to allow to harden correctly before proceeding. 27. Prepare the bowl neck reinforcing collar by folding top tabs back slightly, and each section back slightly on vertical perf lines. 28. Position and glue each band section to one face of the stem, just below the bowl edge, while also gluing a petal tab to the bottom section of the corresponding bowl wedge. Continue to wrap and glue the band sections and petal tabs until entire collar is in place. 29. Slide the knob up the stem until the straight top edge lines up exactly next to the collar lower straight edge. Before sliding into final position, apply glue next to the collar edge. Also bend bottom petal tabs back to apply glue to them, then reposition and glue in place to the faces of the stem. 30. Prepare the interior masking shapes by folding as shown. 31. Apply glue to the underside of each wedge, then slip into the bowl interior, and align each, centered with a bowl main wedge section. Side edges will be slightly offset in from the main wedge seam lines . . . . . . and the top straight edge will abut with the backside lower rim strip edge. (The purpose of the interior masking wedge is to conceal the seam tabs and dress up the interior space.) 32. Apply glue to the underside tabs of the center circle mask shape. Insert into the bottom of the bowl, adjust so that each petal tab is centered with the wedge shapes, then apply pressure to secure in place. 33. Layer and glue together the base and face IHS medallion shapes. 34. Position and glue in place on the wedge section that you select as the chalice's front. Here (with decorative grapes cluster) is the finished chalice.

Wir ist ein Anbieter im Bereich der Gastgeschenke und Give-aways für Hochzeiten, Geburten, Taufen, Kommunion, Konfirmation, Jugendweihe, Geburtstage… . Mit viel Spaß an der Gestaltung und unendlichen kreativen Ideen, gestalten wir Ihre ganz persönlichen Wünsche. Reagenzglas (Kunststoff) 20ml, 150 x 16 mm + Korken Inhalt: 12g Bitte teilen Sie uns nach dem Kauf folgende Details mit: 1. Die gewünschte/n Farben Sie können eine Farbe wählen oder kreieren Sie Ihre eigene Mischung (zwei oder drei Farben) Zur Zeit können Sie bei den Schokolinsen und Satinbändchen unter folgenden Möglichkeiten wählen: 1.Rot 2.Lila 3.Pink 4.Türkis 5.Blau 6.Grün 7.Weiß 8.Gold Weitere Farben auf Anfrage. 2. Die gewünschte Form für den Anhänger 1. Herz 2. Fisch 3. Kreis 4. Blütenkreis … und Ihren Wunsch für den Aufdruck, sowie die Farbe des Anhängers. Wenn wir alle Infos haben, fertigen wir Ihren besonderen Wunsch zeitnah an. Bitte bedenken Sie, dass wir erst nach Zahlungseingang mit der Herstellung beginnen. Die auf den Bildern zu sehende Dekoration gehört nicht zum Lieferumfang. Mini Schokolinsen mit buntem Zuckerüberzug Zutaten: Vollmilchschokolade (65%): (Zucker, Kakaobutter, Vollmilchpulver, Kakaomasse, Süßmolkenpulver, Milchzucker, Magermilchpulver, Emulgator: Sojalecithine, Vanilleextrakt), Zucker, Glukosesirup, Farbstoffe: E 171, E 163,E 120, E 141, E 100 E 131 Verdickungsmittel: Gummi arabicum, Gelatine, Vanilleextrakt, Überzugsmittel: Bienen- und Carnaubawachs. Vollmilchschokolade: mindestens 30% Kakaobestandteile Kann Spuren von Erdnüssen und Schalenfrüchten enthalten. Durchschnittliche Nährwerte pro 100 g 1 Portion (25 g)** % (25 g)* Energie 2010 kJ 503 kJ 6 % Energie 478 kcal 120 kcal Fett 18,0 g 4,5 g 6 % davon gesättigte Fettsäuren 11,9 g 3,0 g 15 % Kohlenhydrate 73,8 g 18,5 g 7 % davon Zucker 67,8 g 17,0 g 19 % Ballaststoffe 1,2 g 0,3 g Eiweiß 4,7 g 1,2 g 2 % Salz 0,14 g 0,04 g 1 % *Referenzmenge für einen durchschnittlichen Erwachsenen (8.400 kJ / 2.000 kcal). **1 Portion = 25 g Stückmaße und Stückgewicht Durchmesser ca. 9,4 – 10,5 mm Höhe ca. 4,5 – 5,5 mm Lagerbedingungen Kühl und trocken, max. 25°C , 40 % rel. Feuchte Ursprungsland Deutschland

Nach den Neuigkeiten gibt es heute auch noch etwas kreatives für heute :) Mir haben die Regenbogen-Farben von meiner letzten Karte so gut gefallen und ich habe überlegt, wie ich es noch auf Papier bringen kann. Da ich leider keinen Stempel in der Form habe, habe ich einfach Moosgummi (was auch noch ganz weit unten in einer Kiste lag und noch niemals benutzt wurde) genommen, zurecht geschnitten und mit doppelseitigem Klebeband auf einen Acrylblock geklebt. Es klappte wunderbar und sogar mit Stempelreiniger, ließ er sich gut reinigen, so dass ich zumindest die hellen und dunklen Farben mit zwei Moosgummistempeln benutzen konnte. Bei so einfachen Formen isr das eine tolle Alternative, wenn man mal nichts passendes da hat. Noch etwas Pergamentpapier mit dem passenden Worten ausgedruckt, ein kleines Kreuz ausgeschnitten und fertig ist sie. Nachträglich begrüße ich ganz herzlich meine neuen Leserinnen! Schön, dass ihr zu mir gefunden habt :) Ein sehr schönes WE wünsche ich euch; erholt euch gut! Liebe Grüße, eure Jenny Material: CS: Flüsterweiß und Zartblau von SU Pergamentpapier von SU Stempelfarben SU: Wasabigrün, Pazifikblau, Zartblau, Himbeerrot, Glutrot, Wassermelone, Kürbisgelb, Osterglocke.

Honig als Gastgeschenk – die kleine Aufmerksamkeit für Ihre Gäste. Perfekt für Ihre Hochzeit, Kommunion, Konfirmation, Taufe, Geburtstag oder jedes andere Fest. Gerne möchte man sich bei seinen Gästen für das Kommen, das schöne Fest & die Geschenke bedanken. Überraschen Sie Ihre Gäste mit einem besonderen Gastgeschenk, Giveaway oder Sie verwenden die Gläser als Platzkarte. Honig - süße Gastgeschenke sind die besondere Art Danke zu sagen. Man kann die Geschenkgläser charmant in die Tischdekoration einbinden oder man platziert sie auf einem Tisch, von dem sich jeder Gast ein kleines Geschenk mitnehmen kann. Damit Ihr süßes Gastgeschenk ganz persönlich ist, werden Ihre Textwünsche, Gästenamen, Name/n und der entsprechende Anlass individuell auf hochglänzende Etiketten aufgedruckt. Diese können Sie einfach auf die Deckel der kleinen Honiggläser kleben und zaubern im Handumdrehen ein wundervolles persönliches Gastgeschenk. Eine Rolle Satinband liegt Ihrer Bestellung ebenfalls bei, damit Sie Ihr Gastgeschenk mit einer hübschen Schleife versehen können. Ihre Bestellung beinhaltet: ♥ feiner cremiger Bioland Bienenhonig a 50g ♥ Blütenhonig-Etikett auf dem Glas ♥ hochglänzende Etiketten für den Glasdeckel auf Bogen personalisiert mit Ihrem Textwunsch, Gästenamen, Name/n und Anlass ♥ Satinband auf Rolle Größe der Gläser Ø 45,0mm, Höhe: 50,0mm Einzelpreis pro Glas 2,49€ - 49,80Euro/1kg WEITERE INFORMATIONEN AUF: WWW.MARGOTSIMKEREI.DE Herstellungsart handmade with ♥ love Honig aus meiner kleinen Imkerei in liebevoller Handarbeit geschleudert, cremig gerührt und abgefüllt. Kein Honig ist wie der andere. Denn jedes Bienenvolk hat seine eigene Art, ihn herzustellen und es ist entscheidend, welche Blüten oder Bäume mitwirken. Deshalb können die Farbtöne des Honigs variieren und entsprechen möglicherweise nicht den Farbtönen auf den Abbildungen. Deutscher Bio-Honig aus der kleinen feinen Bioland Imkerei im Westerwald Aus kontrolliert biologischem Anbau: DE-ÖKO-006 Bioland Betriebsnummer: 401620 Lagerung: kühl, dunkel und trocken

Voici une dernière proposition de deux activités autour de l'album Les orteils n'ont pas de nom. Pour remettre ces activités en contexte, n'hésitez pas à relire l'histoire avant de commencer.Activité 1 Le but de l'activité est de recoller sur les orteils les nombres donnés comme noms dans le bon ordre. Cela va permettre de travailler la reconnaissance des nombres écrits ainsi que la récitation de la comptine numérique. Enfants : En prenant la page du livre comme modèle, colle les étiquettes avec

I work very closely with the Bride and Groom to ensure we get your dream wedding cake designed.

Dimensional ceremonial replica goblet measures approx. 8” tall x 4” wide x 3.75” deep. Pair with grapes 3d cluster with leaves to use as a decoration for a first communion celebration, or other special occasions. Stem can be reinforced with a .75” dowel segment. ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes: A base hexagon B stem C bowl wedges (6) D bowl rim strips (6) E bowl neck reinforcement F knob G base contour wedges (6) H bowl interior masking wedges (6) I center stem opening mask J IHS medallion and base shapes NOTE: Two slightly different gold shades were used to cut the shapes: A, B, D & E are slightly brighter gold. 2. Prepare the stem by folding on vertical perforation lines to form a tube. Fold top flange tabs back slightly. 3. Overlap the plain long side edge to the opposite tab perforation line and glue side seam. NOTE: it is possible to fold the stem shape flat during the seam gluing process, then shape it back into a tube. 4. Prepare the base hexagon shape by folding the sides back on the perforation lines and the tab lines. Fold the small triangular tabs back between the side sections. Push the center hex tabs inward. 5. Form the base into a box by bringing the plain side short edge to overlap at the adjacent tab perforation line and glue in place. Repeat for all 6 seams. 6. Fold the base long edge tabs under and glue in place. During the gluing process it will help to secure the tabs flat and completely adhered by . . . . . . using a flat slightly pointed tool such as this spatula to work the tab corners to be glued crisp and flat. 7. Insert the top of the stem pole through the base hex center opening . . . . . . and move the base hex all the way to the bottom of the stem pole. NOTE that the bottom of the stem should line up exactly with the straight bottom edge of the center hole tabs. This will put the bottom of the stem even with the base hex edges as they sit on the table top surface and provide stability for the chalice base. 8. Bend the base tabs back slightly to apply glue between tabs and stem pole. Replace and apply pressure to attach. 9. If desired, it is recommended that a 3/4" diameter wood dowel length be inserted into the stem pole tube to provide strength to the chalice. Insert the dowel end to the perforation at the top tab, then mark length exactly at the end of the stem tube. 10. Cut the dowel to size, then reinsert. Apply adhesive to the inside of the tube as feasible to help the dowel stay securely in place. Make sure the dowel bottom is even with the tube bottom. 11. Prepare the bowl wedges by folding side tabs back, folding on the horizontal contour perforation lines. 12. Join the first two wedges by lining up the straight side edges of each contour level to the corresponding tab perforation line of the adjacent level. Work on one level or strata at a time, applying pressure until secure, then bending to align the next level, and so forth until all five strata are aligned and joined. 13. Continue adding a wedge to the previous assembly in the same manner until all six wedges are joined. 14. Complete the final bowl side seam by overlapping the final plain edges to the corresponding tab perf lines as previously done. 15. Prepare the rim strips by folding in half on the long perforation line, and also bending the end tab back slightly. 16. Position and glue the first strip in place wrapped over the bowl top edge, with the strip (without the end tab) centered over one wedge section. The right straight end should line up with the wedge-to-wedge seam. NOTE: make sure the end tab remains free and un-glued. The final rim strip will be inserted under the tab, then it will be glued. 17. Continue to position the remaining five rim strips and glue in place, tucking the straight right end under the left tab of the previously-placed rim strip. Once the added strip is secure, glue the overlapping end tab down. 18. Prepare the base contour wedges by folding the side tabs back slightly. Also fold the horizontal perf lines: bottom folds back as a mountain fold; remaining two folds are valley folds. 19. Join the contour wedges in a fashion similar to the way bowl wedges were joined. First join two wedge sections, then continue adding the remaining wedges until . . . . . . the final wedge seam remains. Overlap, align edge to perf line and glue tabs in place. 20. Insert the stem pole through the contour tube. Align and insert the bottom tab pairs with the slot pairs on each section of the hex base. 21. On the base underside, bend the tabs back toward the hex edge and glue in place. 22. Prepare the knob shape by folding bottom curved tabs back (valley fold), and all other folds as mountain folds, including the small triangular tabs between each upper and lower wedge sections. 23. Shape the knob by joining seams between sections: overlap the short straight edge to the perf line of the adjacent tab and glue in place. Shown here is the first of the top seams. Also complete the seams for the bottom seams, shown here. 24. Complete the final seam by bringing straight end edges overlap at the opposite end tab perf lines. Line up the center, top and bottom sections, one at a time, and glue in place to create a knob tube. 25. Slide the knob tube over the top of the stem and move down as far as easily possible, just to place it out of the way for the time being. 26. Insert the stem top tabs end into the bottom of the bowl hex opening . . . . . . and adjust until the tab perf lines each line up with the straight edge of a corresponding straight edge of the bowl hex opening. Apply glue to the tabs, press back, centered in the wedge section, and apply pressure until secure. NOTE: a critical action in this point in the process is to make sure that the bowl is attached well to the stem tabs, AND that the bowl rim is parallel with the base bottom/table top surface, with bowl evenly perpendicular to the table top surface. Use any "squaring-up" tool available to check and adjust immediately while the glue is still curing. Brace, if necessary, to allow to harden correctly before proceeding. 27. Prepare the bowl neck reinforcing collar by folding top tabs back slightly, and each section back slightly on vertical perf lines. 28. Position and glue each band section to one face of the stem, just below the bowl edge, while also gluing a petal tab to the bottom section of the corresponding bowl wedge. Continue to wrap and glue the band sections and petal tabs until entire collar is in place. 29. Slide the knob up the stem until the straight top edge lines up exactly next to the collar lower straight edge. Before sliding into final position, apply glue next to the collar edge. Also bend bottom petal tabs back to apply glue to them, then reposition and glue in place to the faces of the stem. 30. Prepare the interior masking shapes by folding as shown. 31. Apply glue to the underside of each wedge, then slip into the bowl interior, and align each, centered with a bowl main wedge section. Side edges will be slightly offset in from the main wedge seam lines . . . . . . and the top straight edge will abut with the backside lower rim strip edge. (The purpose of the interior masking wedge is to conceal the seam tabs and dress up the interior space.) 32. Apply glue to the underside tabs of the center circle mask shape. Insert into the bottom of the bowl, adjust so that each petal tab is centered with the wedge shapes, then apply pressure to secure in place. 33. Layer and glue together the base and face IHS medallion shapes. 34. Position and glue in place on the wedge section that you select as the chalice's front. Here (with decorative grapes cluster) is the finished chalice.

Dimensional ceremonial replica goblet measures approx. 8” tall x 4” wide x 3.75” deep. Pair with grapes 3d cluster with leaves to use as a decoration for a first communion celebration, or other special occasions. Stem can be reinforced with a .75” dowel segment. ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes: A base hexagon B stem C bowl wedges (6) D bowl rim strips (6) E bowl neck reinforcement F knob G base contour wedges (6) H bowl interior masking wedges (6) I center stem opening mask J IHS medallion and base shapes NOTE: Two slightly different gold shades were used to cut the shapes: A, B, D & E are slightly brighter gold. 2. Prepare the stem by folding on vertical perforation lines to form a tube. Fold top flange tabs back slightly. 3. Overlap the plain long side edge to the opposite tab perforation line and glue side seam. NOTE: it is possible to fold the stem shape flat during the seam gluing process, then shape it back into a tube. 4. Prepare the base hexagon shape by folding the sides back on the perforation lines and the tab lines. Fold the small triangular tabs back between the side sections. Push the center hex tabs inward. 5. Form the base into a box by bringing the plain side short edge to overlap at the adjacent tab perforation line and glue in place. Repeat for all 6 seams. 6. Fold the base long edge tabs under and glue in place. During the gluing process it will help to secure the tabs flat and completely adhered by . . . . . . using a flat slightly pointed tool such as this spatula to work the tab corners to be glued crisp and flat. 7. Insert the top of the stem pole through the base hex center opening . . . . . . and move the base hex all the way to the bottom of the stem pole. NOTE that the bottom of the stem should line up exactly with the straight bottom edge of the center hole tabs. This will put the bottom of the stem even with the base hex edges as they sit on the table top surface and provide stability for the chalice base. 8. Bend the base tabs back slightly to apply glue between tabs and stem pole. Replace and apply pressure to attach. 9. If desired, it is recommended that a 3/4" diameter wood dowel length be inserted into the stem pole tube to provide strength to the chalice. Insert the dowel end to the perforation at the top tab, then mark length exactly at the end of the stem tube. 10. Cut the dowel to size, then reinsert. Apply adhesive to the inside of the tube as feasible to help the dowel stay securely in place. Make sure the dowel bottom is even with the tube bottom. 11. Prepare the bowl wedges by folding side tabs back, folding on the horizontal contour perforation lines. 12. Join the first two wedges by lining up the straight side edges of each contour level to the corresponding tab perforation line of the adjacent level. Work on one level or strata at a time, applying pressure until secure, then bending to align the next level, and so forth until all five strata are aligned and joined. 13. Continue adding a wedge to the previous assembly in the same manner until all six wedges are joined. 14. Complete the final bowl side seam by overlapping the final plain edges to the corresponding tab perf lines as previously done. 15. Prepare the rim strips by folding in half on the long perforation line, and also bending the end tab back slightly. 16. Position and glue the first strip in place wrapped over the bowl top edge, with the strip (without the end tab) centered over one wedge section. The right straight end should line up with the wedge-to-wedge seam. NOTE: make sure the end tab remains free and un-glued. The final rim strip will be inserted under the tab, then it will be glued. 17. Continue to position the remaining five rim strips and glue in place, tucking the straight right end under the left tab of the previously-placed rim strip. Once the added strip is secure, glue the overlapping end tab down. 18. Prepare the base contour wedges by folding the side tabs back slightly. Also fold the horizontal perf lines: bottom folds back as a mountain fold; remaining two folds are valley folds. 19. Join the contour wedges in a fashion similar to the way bowl wedges were joined. First join two wedge sections, then continue adding the remaining wedges until . . . . . . the final wedge seam remains. Overlap, align edge to perf line and glue tabs in place. 20. Insert the stem pole through the contour tube. Align and insert the bottom tab pairs with the slot pairs on each section of the hex base. 21. On the base underside, bend the tabs back toward the hex edge and glue in place. 22. Prepare the knob shape by folding bottom curved tabs back (valley fold), and all other folds as mountain folds, including the small triangular tabs between each upper and lower wedge sections. 23. Shape the knob by joining seams between sections: overlap the short straight edge to the perf line of the adjacent tab and glue in place. Shown here is the first of the top seams. Also complete the seams for the bottom seams, shown here. 24. Complete the final seam by bringing straight end edges overlap at the opposite end tab perf lines. Line up the center, top and bottom sections, one at a time, and glue in place to create a knob tube. 25. Slide the knob tube over the top of the stem and move down as far as easily possible, just to place it out of the way for the time being. 26. Insert the stem top tabs end into the bottom of the bowl hex opening . . . . . . and adjust until the tab perf lines each line up with the straight edge of a corresponding straight edge of the bowl hex opening. Apply glue to the tabs, press back, centered in the wedge section, and apply pressure until secure. NOTE: a critical action in this point in the process is to make sure that the bowl is attached well to the stem tabs, AND that the bowl rim is parallel with the base bottom/table top surface, with bowl evenly perpendicular to the table top surface. Use any "squaring-up" tool available to check and adjust immediately while the glue is still curing. Brace, if necessary, to allow to harden correctly before proceeding. 27. Prepare the bowl neck reinforcing collar by folding top tabs back slightly, and each section back slightly on vertical perf lines. 28. Position and glue each band section to one face of the stem, just below the bowl edge, while also gluing a petal tab to the bottom section of the corresponding bowl wedge. Continue to wrap and glue the band sections and petal tabs until entire collar is in place. 29. Slide the knob up the stem until the straight top edge lines up exactly next to the collar lower straight edge. Before sliding into final position, apply glue next to the collar edge. Also bend bottom petal tabs back to apply glue to them, then reposition and glue in place to the faces of the stem. 30. Prepare the interior masking shapes by folding as shown. 31. Apply glue to the underside of each wedge, then slip into the bowl interior, and align each, centered with a bowl main wedge section. Side edges will be slightly offset in from the main wedge seam lines . . . . . . and the top straight edge will abut with the backside lower rim strip edge. (The purpose of the interior masking wedge is to conceal the seam tabs and dress up the interior space.) 32. Apply glue to the underside tabs of the center circle mask shape. Insert into the bottom of the bowl, adjust so that each petal tab is centered with the wedge shapes, then apply pressure to secure in place. 33. Layer and glue together the base and face IHS medallion shapes. 34. Position and glue in place on the wedge section that you select as the chalice's front. Here (with decorative grapes cluster) is the finished chalice.

Dimensional ceremonial replica goblet measures approx. 8” tall x 4” wide x 3.75” deep. Pair with grapes 3d cluster with leaves to use as a decoration for a first communion celebration, or other special occasions. Stem can be reinforced with a .75” dowel segment. ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes: A base hexagon B stem C bowl wedges (6) D bowl rim strips (6) E bowl neck reinforcement F knob G base contour wedges (6) H bowl interior masking wedges (6) I center stem opening mask J IHS medallion and base shapes NOTE: Two slightly different gold shades were used to cut the shapes: A, B, D & E are slightly brighter gold. 2. Prepare the stem by folding on vertical perforation lines to form a tube. Fold top flange tabs back slightly. 3. Overlap the plain long side edge to the opposite tab perforation line and glue side seam. NOTE: it is possible to fold the stem shape flat during the seam gluing process, then shape it back into a tube. 4. Prepare the base hexagon shape by folding the sides back on the perforation lines and the tab lines. Fold the small triangular tabs back between the side sections. Push the center hex tabs inward. 5. Form the base into a box by bringing the plain side short edge to overlap at the adjacent tab perforation line and glue in place. Repeat for all 6 seams. 6. Fold the base long edge tabs under and glue in place. During the gluing process it will help to secure the tabs flat and completely adhered by . . . . . . using a flat slightly pointed tool such as this spatula to work the tab corners to be glued crisp and flat. 7. Insert the top of the stem pole through the base hex center opening . . . . . . and move the base hex all the way to the bottom of the stem pole. NOTE that the bottom of the stem should line up exactly with the straight bottom edge of the center hole tabs. This will put the bottom of the stem even with the base hex edges as they sit on the table top surface and provide stability for the chalice base. 8. Bend the base tabs back slightly to apply glue between tabs and stem pole. Replace and apply pressure to attach. 9. If desired, it is recommended that a 3/4" diameter wood dowel length be inserted into the stem pole tube to provide strength to the chalice. Insert the dowel end to the perforation at the top tab, then mark length exactly at the end of the stem tube. 10. Cut the dowel to size, then reinsert. Apply adhesive to the inside of the tube as feasible to help the dowel stay securely in place. Make sure the dowel bottom is even with the tube bottom. 11. Prepare the bowl wedges by folding side tabs back, folding on the horizontal contour perforation lines. 12. Join the first two wedges by lining up the straight side edges of each contour level to the corresponding tab perforation line of the adjacent level. Work on one level or strata at a time, applying pressure until secure, then bending to align the next level, and so forth until all five strata are aligned and joined. 13. Continue adding a wedge to the previous assembly in the same manner until all six wedges are joined. 14. Complete the final bowl side seam by overlapping the final plain edges to the corresponding tab perf lines as previously done. 15. Prepare the rim strips by folding in half on the long perforation line, and also bending the end tab back slightly. 16. Position and glue the first strip in place wrapped over the bowl top edge, with the strip (without the end tab) centered over one wedge section. The right straight end should line up with the wedge-to-wedge seam. NOTE: make sure the end tab remains free and un-glued. The final rim strip will be inserted under the tab, then it will be glued. 17. Continue to position the remaining five rim strips and glue in place, tucking the straight right end under the left tab of the previously-placed rim strip. Once the added strip is secure, glue the overlapping end tab down. 18. Prepare the base contour wedges by folding the side tabs back slightly. Also fold the horizontal perf lines: bottom folds back as a mountain fold; remaining two folds are valley folds. 19. Join the contour wedges in a fashion similar to the way bowl wedges were joined. First join two wedge sections, then continue adding the remaining wedges until . . . . . . the final wedge seam remains. Overlap, align edge to perf line and glue tabs in place. 20. Insert the stem pole through the contour tube. Align and insert the bottom tab pairs with the slot pairs on each section of the hex base. 21. On the base underside, bend the tabs back toward the hex edge and glue in place. 22. Prepare the knob shape by folding bottom curved tabs back (valley fold), and all other folds as mountain folds, including the small triangular tabs between each upper and lower wedge sections. 23. Shape the knob by joining seams between sections: overlap the short straight edge to the perf line of the adjacent tab and glue in place. Shown here is the first of the top seams. Also complete the seams for the bottom seams, shown here. 24. Complete the final seam by bringing straight end edges overlap at the opposite end tab perf lines. Line up the center, top and bottom sections, one at a time, and glue in place to create a knob tube. 25. Slide the knob tube over the top of the stem and move down as far as easily possible, just to place it out of the way for the time being. 26. Insert the stem top tabs end into the bottom of the bowl hex opening . . . . . . and adjust until the tab perf lines each line up with the straight edge of a corresponding straight edge of the bowl hex opening. Apply glue to the tabs, press back, centered in the wedge section, and apply pressure until secure. NOTE: a critical action in this point in the process is to make sure that the bowl is attached well to the stem tabs, AND that the bowl rim is parallel with the base bottom/table top surface, with bowl evenly perpendicular to the table top surface. Use any "squaring-up" tool available to check and adjust immediately while the glue is still curing. Brace, if necessary, to allow to harden correctly before proceeding. 27. Prepare the bowl neck reinforcing collar by folding top tabs back slightly, and each section back slightly on vertical perf lines. 28. Position and glue each band section to one face of the stem, just below the bowl edge, while also gluing a petal tab to the bottom section of the corresponding bowl wedge. Continue to wrap and glue the band sections and petal tabs until entire collar is in place. 29. Slide the knob up the stem until the straight top edge lines up exactly next to the collar lower straight edge. Before sliding into final position, apply glue next to the collar edge. Also bend bottom petal tabs back to apply glue to them, then reposition and glue in place to the faces of the stem. 30. Prepare the interior masking shapes by folding as shown. 31. Apply glue to the underside of each wedge, then slip into the bowl interior, and align each, centered with a bowl main wedge section. Side edges will be slightly offset in from the main wedge seam lines . . . . . . and the top straight edge will abut with the backside lower rim strip edge. (The purpose of the interior masking wedge is to conceal the seam tabs and dress up the interior space.) 32. Apply glue to the underside tabs of the center circle mask shape. Insert into the bottom of the bowl, adjust so that each petal tab is centered with the wedge shapes, then apply pressure to secure in place. 33. Layer and glue together the base and face IHS medallion shapes. 34. Position and glue in place on the wedge section that you select as the chalice's front. Here (with decorative grapes cluster) is the finished chalice.

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Personalised Mini Nutella Tags for Bonbonniere or give aways Handmade give away/bonbonniere tags that fit a mini nutella jar, mini honey jars, mini plants, mini alcohol bottles etc. for weddings, engagements, birthdays, hens parties, baby showers etc Materials: Printed on 300gsm Matte white paper and twine Give away tags + Twine: $1.10 each - NUTELLA JAR NOT INCLUDED - N o t e - Please note that extra design fees apply, depending on your requirement. If you are ordering outside of Australia, please include your mobile number for shipping purposes. Any questions and queries please email or message, we are here to cater for all your needs. Thank you for visiting Ink Paper Scissors Follow and Tag us on Instagram.com/inkpaperscissors_

Dimensional ceremonial replica goblet measures approx. 8” tall x 4” wide x 3.75” deep. Pair with grapes 3d cluster with leaves ...