Woman's sack and petticoat, 1760-65, British; yellow silk figured with white floral trails, Spitalfields, 1755-60; altered 1870-1910
This week l've dusted off the sewing machine to make a couple of projects and hoped you might like to share them with me. Usually when l'm inspired to sew something l head for the back room where l have a pretty large stock of vintage fabrics, trims, braids and cottons etc.This allows me to not only recycle, but also to create something unique. As the weather is getting cold l decided to make some armwarmers which are great to tuck up under 3/4 sleeves or even longish short sleeves. To make them l've just found an old top and cut the sleeves off. The sleeve seam is cut open to allow all the trims to be sewn on flat. Here I've used vintage heavy lace, and 3 rows of pale cream lace which has been pleated as l've sewn.Then added ribbon to hide the messy stitching. The seam is then resewn to fit and elastic added to the end that tucks under your oversleeve, so they don't fall down..... Voila!! easy. l was on a roll, so found a large piece of vintage curtain fabric and cut around the shape of a top l like the shape off. Just sewed the shoulder seams first then sewed some heavy lace along the front neckline and then added the neckband. sewed all the side/arm seams and added the sleeve and waist bands. The sleeves are a wee bit tight but will be o.k in the warmer weather, without sleeves underneath. Sometimes the library has great books and a few weeks ago l borrowed this lovely book called Silk. (Jacques Anquetil). l took some pics of my fave's which l'm showing here. Pics. 18th century emboidered silk bodice, and silk court shoes. . 18th century French brocade and pekin (fine soft silk) on frock. Left. 18th century brocaded lampas (type of fabric) silk. Right. Chine velvet patterned 19th century chair. Peacock tapestry 1773. Silk brocade owned by Russia's Catherine the Great. Right. Damask drapes with lampas silk border. 19th century French portrait of Rose Caron wearing satin and silk chiffon frock. Over the years l've been able to collect a few silk embroideries, they often also have some form of handpainting. l'm pretty sure these are both machine done but still beautifully done and typically Asian. Gorgeous bed linens using a variety of fabrics from Bellanottelinens Have a wonderful relaxing weekend, til next time. Bron.
Viele Kleidungsstücke von Frauen im 18. Jahrhundert haben Verziehrungen mit kleinen Puschelborten (ein besseres deutsches Wort ist mir bislang nicht eingefallen). Besonders häufig sind mir diese kleinen gewebten Bänder bei Kleidern der 1750er bis 1770er über den Weg gelaufen. Im Modemuseum Residenzschloss Ludwigsburg gibt es etliche erhaltene Originale, ein Besuch dort lohnt sich auf jeden Fall. Im Museum gibt es sogar einen Stohhut mit dieser Art der Verzierung.
MET LACMA Fly fringe, a historical trim which eludes costumers today and was very common on 18th century gowns. Made from silk filament threads tied and knotted in little arrangements then the cut ends fluffed into tiny cute little puffs. Usually woven into or sewn/knotted onto another base trim (like above) fly fringe is distinctly 18th century and can add a new level of frill and accuracy to modern reconstructions. I have always wanted to play around with making some fly fringe trim of my own so last week I sat down with whatever I could find in my studio that would sorta work. The real fly fringe and the best reproductions are made from natural silk filament threads, meaning that the strands of silk fiber are not twisted into a stronger thread but left lying together parallel for maximum shine and fluff. I currently don't have any of this type of silk thread but I decided to play with what I had laying around, silky dmc embroidery thread. Wrong in so many ways, a twisted thread, polyester not silk and too bright to be naturally dyed but good enough for practicing. these particular 'flys' were actually made from the long threads making up a polyester satin ribbon I tore apart This is a combination of colors and knots tied onto ivory base trim, patriotic no? :) The fly fringe itself is easy enough to make. First get some silky (preferably silk) thread and tie pairs of knots in the strand every inch and a quarter or so. See below here I used one strand of white and one of black tied together Once you have a foot or so of thread tied like this it becomes difficult to keep going precisely so its time to start cutting! Cut the 'flys' apart by cutting in the center empty space between the sets of knots. Once you have lots of these little cut 'flys' you can start sewing them directly to your base trim or project but often trims were built up in bunches with fly fringe so I kept going. Using a new strand of thread knot in the first 'flys' you made between knots. here I have threaded the black 'flys' between the strands of white thread and tied knots on either side to hold the 'flys' secure Then you can cut these apart as before and have little crosses or keep them together in bunches of 'flys' and let them dangle off of your trim. like so! I made the ends of the cut 'flys' fluffy and frayed by running them over my finger nails like curling ribbon with scissors on a present. It seemed to work quite well and I was rather pleased with the fly fringes I was able to create with admittedly poor materials. stringing on the bundles of fringes some fly fringe mock-ups I came up with In lovely pastel colors For the last sample I made I experimented with adding ribbons into the mix. Again silk ribbon would have been preferred but polyester didn't look so bad. I tied little layered lengths of blue ribbon into the fly fringe and also made little gathered flowers to sew on my trim every few inches. The very fringy trim at the top of this image was made by taking frayed ribbon and knotting it together every so often my sample pinned onto a stray silk bodice As there is the Rocky Mountain Sew Expo in Denver this next week I am hoping there will be silk threads for sale from on of the vendors. Then I can make some real silk fly fringe to go on my soon to be remodeled robe a l'anglaise!
A man's suit with coat, waistcoat and breeches, 1740s, Scottish; Green wool and red wool, trimmed with silver-gilt woven lace; altered 1870-1910
Our Classical Craftsman Molding is an historically accurate trim molding style for 20th century architecture, c. 1900-1930. View our 16 profiles and sizes.
Vertical stripes of open lattice of silk cording and lace trimmed with ribbons.
Date: 1775–1800. Culture: French. Medium: silk. Credit Line: Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1961. Accession Number: C.I.61.13.1a, b. ...
Woman's stomacher of ivory silk taffeta, 1720-1740, British; embroidered with coloured silks and silver thread, chinoiserie design
A woman's mantua, petticoat and stomacher, 1755-1760, English; striped, figured cream silk, brocaded with floral sprigs, Spitalfields, 1748-1750
A woman's gown and petticoat, 1775-80, Scottish; Pink, maroon, yellow and white striped lustring, British, 1770-80
Ribbon, embroidered, ca. 1600, English
Part 1 of a series of blog posts exploring my new book Fabric Manipulation in more detail, looking at the history of the techniques and how I have used them in my own work. I first became fascinate…
It sometimes happens when researching that you innocently follow a possible lead and end up opening a can of worms. This article started out as one such can! It started at the end of our research i…
Women's PLUS SIZED 18th Century Stays, Fully Boned, Corset - Custom Made in USA Please contact me to check my availability before purchasing. STAYS PICTURED ARE NOT AVAILABLE FOR READY RESALE. Each pair is custom, made to order for each individual client. I do not accept deposits for this item. You must pay in full at the time of your purchase. DESCRIPTION: ITEM PICTURED IS FOR SAMPLE PURPOSES. My 18th Century handmade stays are custom fit to your measurements, and FULLY BONED with the highest quality materials and construction to offer superior historical reproduction and support of your outer garment and petticoats. There is a wide-spread fallacy that only metal boning can produce superior support. This is NOT true. The only portion of my stays that are machine stitched are the boning channels and side seams. The custom-made bias-cut edging and interlining are hand-stitched!!! These are the closest you will find to a 100% hand-stitched stays and priced to fit your budget. Shop and compare with stays only half-boned and priced MUCH higher, upwards of $600 for custom fit stays that are made to your measurements as mine are. The concave neckline and straps lifts and supports to create a more alluring décolletage. The split tabs make this the most comfortable stays that you will ever wear - No pinching or chaffing. Sample pictured is doubled laced in front and back which allows for more versatility and size adjustment. Each pair of stays has FOUR layers: fashion fabric, heavy weight fusible hair canvas imported from the UK, and two layers of 100% cotton duck lining for durability and superior ventilation. Trimmed in hand-made bias tape binding that is hand stitched using small, even stitches - NOT SEWN BY MACHINE - for a more historically authentic appearing stays. All of my stays and corsets include this UNIQUE couture detailing for a SUPERIOR historical reproduction. Heavily boned with industrial cable ties (as used by other premier corsetiers in the historical industry) which are MORE DURABLE and thicker than faux baleen for SUPERIOR SUPPORT. Each tie has a pounds per square inch strength of 50 to 75 pounds and does not become misshapen or warped with wear as cheaper "plastics" do. Even large or heavily breasted women can wear my stays and be properly supported. **** Made in the USA by a reputable designer with an excellent customer satisfaction rating. Shopping from a designer in the USA avoids RISKY overseas transactions, expensive shipping and customs fees. FABRIC OPTIONS: - 100% Linen https://fabrics-store.com/all-fabrics?article=IL019 COLORS: Many colors of linen available. COUCHED GROMMETS: Small, narrow grommets MUST be couched for additional $30. Otherwise, Larger, grommets uncouched will be installed. CHAMOIS ARMHOLE GUARDS: Available for additional $10.00 Please CHECK MY AVAILABILITY BEFORE PURCHASING. After you have secured a reservation on my calendar, which can be up to 10 or 12 months wait, please allow at least 9 to 10 weeks for "construction" add approximately 7 days for shipping. COST BREAKDOWN: 2 yards 100% Linen: $48.03- UPDATED COST as of 10-28-22 1 Yard Fusible Hair Canvas Interfacing: $8.00 1 Yard Heavy weight Canvas: $9.00 3 to 5 yards Flat Cotton Corset Laces with plastic tips: $6.00 30 - 40 - 5 mm/.000 Grommets: $6.00 Boning Industrial Cable Ties with PSI of 50 lbs ea: $25.00 5 Yards Hand-Made Bias Tape Trim: 17.00 ___________________________________________ $119.03 Materials & Supplies: $115.04 78 Hours Labor: 265.00 (Full price @ $15 an hour = $1,080 ) ______________________________ TOTAL: $384.03 and up. Choose your size by your MEASUREMENTS in inches, not by your usual dress size. USA SIZES: PLEASE NOTE: An upper body cast is required. I no longer offer to draft a custom pattern for petites or those whose measurements exceed the following standard sizes. Generally, you would go down one or two sizes to allow for some reduction. The only alterations I make is the strap placement. If your measurements are larger than those offered in the size 22, I offer another style in the link below: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1224771034/womens-handmade-18th-century-stays-fully?click_key=dad652770ee2039ad93b1be91643bbd818c04cff%3A1224771034&click_sum=646a871a&ref=shop_home_active_12&frs=1 The following measurement are required: Bust Circumference: ___ Bust Side to mid-Center: ____ Ribs (underbust) Circumference: ___ Ribs Side to Mid Center: ____ Waist Circumference: ____ Waist Side to Mid-Center: ___ Hips: ___ Mid-breast (nipple) to waist: ___ Arm Crease Left and Right: (see PDF Handout that will be sent to you) There are other measurements required that will be available on a PDF. 6 - Bust - 30.5" Waist - 23" Hips (9" below the waist) - 32.5" Back Neck to Waist - 15.5" 8 - Bust - 31.5" Waist - 24" Hips (9" below the waist) - 33.5" Back Neck to Waist - 15.75" 10 - Bust - 32.5" Waist - 25" Hips (9" below the waist) - 34" Back Neck to Waist - 16" 12 - Bust - 34" Waist - 26.5" Hips (9" below the waist) - 36" Back Neck to Waist - 16.25" 14 - Bust - 36" Waist - 28" Hips (9" below the waist) - 38" Back Neck to Waist - 16.5" 16 - Bust - 38" Waist - 30" Hips (9" below the waist) - 40" Back Neck to Waist - 16.75" 18 - Bust - 40" Waist - 32" Hips (9" below the waist) - 42" Back Neck to Waist - 17" 20 - Bust - 42" Waist - 34" Hips (9" below the waist) - 44" Back Neck to Waist - 17.25" 22 - Bust - 44" Waist - 37" Hips (9" below the waist) - 46" Back Neck to Waist - 17 3/8" **Hand made items will have small imperfections. No refunds or exchanges on custom made items. If item is canceled and materials have been purchased, the cost of supplies will be deducted from your refund. For cost breakdown of supplies see above. Thank you!
Our Classical Colonial Molding captures the 18th century, designed after the historic William Gibbes House. Profiles: crown, trim, casing, cornice & more.
From the seller: Circa 18THC. a fine Italian, French or Eiropean silk bodice with inner linen lining.In very good condition. From Me: Last time I checked, Italy and France were both European.... Anyway, it's from between the 1760's and 1780's, which I know isn't terribly helpful. My guess would be more to the 1780's but there are examples of jumps/stays and even bodices from earlier than that with the tail in the back. Check out a bodice and petticoat set from the Kent museum to see what I mean. The Met also has a couple of jumps. However, both have the very unhelpful "18th century" label to them. EDIT: I found out these were previously owned by the MET. :-) Here's the original photographs from their collection.
MET LACMA Fly fringe, a historical trim which eludes costumers today and was very common on 18th century gowns. Made from silk filament threads tied and knotted in little arrangements then the cut ends fluffed into tiny cute little puffs. Usually woven into or sewn/knotted onto another base trim (like above) fly fringe is distinctly 18th century and can add a new level of frill and accuracy to modern reconstructions. I have always wanted to play around with making some fly fringe trim of my own so last week I sat down with whatever I could find in my studio that would sorta work. The real fly fringe and the best reproductions are made from natural silk filament threads, meaning that the strands of silk fiber are not twisted into a stronger thread but left lying together parallel for maximum shine and fluff. I currently don't have any of this type of silk thread but I decided to play with what I had laying around, silky dmc embroidery thread. Wrong in so many ways, a twisted thread, polyester not silk and too bright to be naturally dyed but good enough for practicing. these particular 'flys' were actually made from the long threads making up a polyester satin ribbon I tore apart This is a combination of colors and knots tied onto ivory base trim, patriotic no? :) The fly fringe itself is easy enough to make. First get some silky (preferably silk) thread and tie pairs of knots in the strand every inch and a quarter or so. See below here I used one strand of white and one of black tied together Once you have a foot or so of thread tied like this it becomes difficult to keep going precisely so its time to start cutting! Cut the 'flys' apart by cutting in the center empty space between the sets of knots. Once you have lots of these little cut 'flys' you can start sewing them directly to your base trim or project but often trims were built up in bunches with fly fringe so I kept going. Using a new strand of thread knot in the first 'flys' you made between knots. here I have threaded the black 'flys' between the strands of white thread and tied knots on either side to hold the 'flys' secure Then you can cut these apart as before and have little crosses or keep them together in bunches of 'flys' and let them dangle off of your trim. like so! I made the ends of the cut 'flys' fluffy and frayed by running them over my finger nails like curling ribbon with scissors on a present. It seemed to work quite well and I was rather pleased with the fly fringes I was able to create with admittedly poor materials. stringing on the bundles of fringes some fly fringe mock-ups I came up with In lovely pastel colors For the last sample I made I experimented with adding ribbons into the mix. Again silk ribbon would have been preferred but polyester didn't look so bad. I tied little layered lengths of blue ribbon into the fly fringe and also made little gathered flowers to sew on my trim every few inches. The very fringy trim at the top of this image was made by taking frayed ribbon and knotting it together every so often my sample pinned onto a stray silk bodice As there is the Rocky Mountain Sew Expo in Denver this next week I am hoping there will be silk threads for sale from on of the vendors. Then I can make some real silk fly fringe to go on my soon to be remodeled robe a l'anglaise!
Man's formal day coat and waistcoat, c.1760, English; Blue wool, embroidered silver thread & spangles
Detail from a portrait of an unknown lady by Ulrika Fredrica Pasch, 1770 All my sewing projects have been on hold for the ...
Sack and petticoat worn by Mrs Garrick, English, 1760-65, made of Chinese painted silk, 1735-60
One of the earliest hats in the Snowshill costume collection is a mid 18th c. Bergère hat. To the modern eye this hat appears a bland piece of head wear when we think of Georgian fashions; images o…
A man's coat, waistcoat and breeches of beige wool, trimmed with silver-thread ribbon and green-foil buttons, English, 1775-85
A woman's sack and petticoat, 1765-75, English; Yellow silk, pinked and gathered trim, white silk fringe; altered 1870-1910
Woman's stomacher of cream silk, 1760-80, Italian; coloured & silver-gilt embroidery, waistcoat shape
Book containing 99 pages of swatches or samples of silk, Lyon, 1764
Book containing 99 pages of swatches or samples of silk, Lyon, 1764
Isabella reporting, Since so many of you enjoyed my post earlier this week on recreating Georgian silk floss fringe at Colonial William...
Linen chemise, possibly made in Great Britain, 1851
Block printed wool day dress, consisting of a bodice and skirt, about 1848-50
A woman's gown, 1775-80, Scottish; gold-coloured ribbed silk, British, 1770s; altered 1870-1910
