Je vous propose la traduction en français du Classic Ribbed hat de Purl Soho. Un bonnet en côtes classiques au tricot.
Lidia Crochet Tricot vous explique comment calculer les tailles au crochet et tricot. Vous avez beaucoup des astuces et des tableau avec des tailles.
Tu souhaites tricoter un bonnet et tu cherches des infos sur la laine, le nombre de mailles à monter ou un modèle ? Tu es au bon endroit !
Bonnet au tricotbonjour,pour les froids qui sont là, un bonnet qui se réalise à 2 aiguilles, et en fait vous en aurez deux, en effet il me manquait quelque
Tu souhaites tricoter un bonnet et tu cherches des infos sur la laine, le nombre de mailles à monter ou un modèle ? Tu es au bon endroit !
Un modèle publié dans Mon tricot M 147 de 1977 : un bonnet de meunier tricoté en rond, aux aiguilles n° 3 et 5, en côtes 2/2 et jersey. Fournitures : 350 g de fil Dim-dam moyen acrylique et laine 4 fils, soit 150 g rouge, 50 g violet, 50 g rose indien, 50 g vert, 50 g bleu ; un jeu de 5 aiguilles n° 3 1/2 ; un jeu de 5 aiguilles n° 5. Points employés : jersey en tournant : toujours à l'endroit ; côtes 2/2 en tournant : * 2 m endroit, 2 m envers *. Échantillon : un carré de 10 cm en jersey avec les aiguilles n° 5 = 21 mailles et 27 rangs. Réalisation : monter 112 m avec le fil rouge et les aiguilles n° 3 1/2, tricoter en tournant en côtes 2/2 ainsi : 6 tours rouges, 2 tours violets, 5 tours rouges, 2 tours roses, 5 tours rouges, 2 tours vers, 5 tours rouges, 2 tours bleus, 5 tours rouges. Continuer en jersey ainsi : 1 tour rouge en y répartissant 14 diminutions. Il reste 98 mailles. Prendre les aiguilles n° 5 et travailler ainsi : * 4 tours violets, 4 tours rouges, 2 tours roses, 4 tours rouges, 4 tours verts, 4 tours rouges, 2 tours bleus, 4 tours rouges, 4 tours roses, 4 tours rouges, 2 tours violets, 4 tours rouges, 4 tours bleus, 4 tours rouges, 2 tours roses, 4 tours rouges, 4 tours violets, 4 tours rouges, 2 tours verts, 4 tours rouges, 4 tours roses, 4 tours rouges, 2 tours bleus, 4 tours rouges, 4 tours verts, 4 tours rouges, 2 tours violets, 4 tours rouges, 4 tours bleus, 4 tours rouges, 2 tours verts, 4 tours rouges *. Répéter de * à * en répartissant 12 diminutions à la 3è rayure rouge, 10 diminutions à la 7è rayure rouge, 9 diminutions à la 10è rayure rouge. Il reste 67 mailles. A 115 cm du début (40è rayure rouge), répartir 9 diminutions. Répéter ces diminutions à la 41è rayure rouge. Il reste 49 mailles. Au dernier tour de cette rayure, tricoter les mailles ensemble 2 par 2 puis passer le fil dans les 25 m restantes et serrer. Faire un pompon en enroulant autour d'un carton de 7 cm de large, quelques centimètres de chaque coloris. Fixer le pompon au bout de l'écharpe.
Ma voisine va accoucher dans les jours qui viennent. J’ai donc eu envie de lui offrir un petit bonnet de naissance qu’elle pourra mettre tout de suite à son bébé. J’ai eu des diff…
Ce joli bonnet à fausses torsades : j'aime beaucoup ce dessin, qui est vraiment simple à faire, vous trouverez toutes les explications.
Même en été on peut tricoter et porter des bonnets! Pour vos vacances au bord de la mer ce bonnet complètera votre tenue marine.... Utilisez un fil coton qui se tricote avec des aiguilles n°3,5. Il vous faut deux pelotes La qualité Mississippi de Katia...
Knit Turban Hat Free Knitting Pattern
Un snood et son bonnet au point reliefbonjoursi vous aimez les dessins qui sortent de l'ordinaire vous allez être ravie avec celui-ciil me fait
Nous avons mis en ligne aujourd'hui un patron tricot beret pour vous suggérer de l'inspiration une fois votre pelote de laine et vos aiguilles près à travailler.
Version_imprimable_Bonnet_lutin F.A.Q. Facile et rapide à faire pour un résultat tout mignon. Taille premier âge. Pour changer la taille d'un bonnet, voir la F.A.Q. Il vous faut 1 pelote de laine de 50 grammes.Aiguilles n° 3 et n° 3,5 Points employés...
Bonnet et moufles little miss au tricot : un joli ensemble pour nos bébés, avec le bonnet, les moufles et aussi les chaussettes
Circonférence crânienne: 52-55cm; Longueur verticale: 20cm; Matériel nécessaire: 100 g fir Brand Martha Stewart Extra Soft Wool Blend; Circulaire André n° 4 et n° 4,5; Une Andrea serviable; Crochet n° 4; 1 marqueur; Un bouton en nacre. Densité de tricot: 18 mailles = 10 cm. Explication du tricot: 88 mailles sont montées sur l'aiguille n°4. Points
Le tricot se fait tout doux pour les bébés. Cet ensemble DIY de pull, bonnet et chaussons au point mousse sera idéal pour tenir votre bout de chou au chaud cet hiver ! Découvrez vite ce patron de tricot gratuit !
Aujourd'hui, je vous propose de vous tricoter un joli bonnet avec un gros pompon, et un revers (en laine simple) Toujours tricoté avec des...
These Basket Weave Hat Beanie Free Knitting Patterns are perfect easy knitting patterns for beginners. Easy, beginner, colorful, fade, boy, girl, beanie, basket weave, hat
modele tricot bonnet femme torsade #11
Aujourd'hui, je vous propose de vous tricoter un joli bonnet avec un gros pompon, et un revers (en laine simple) Toujours tricoté avec des...
- périmètre cranien : 56 cm env - 3 pelotes de laine de coloris différents (ici rose, bleu et gris) - échantillon 10 cm : 17 m soit aig entre n° 4,5 et 5,5 selon votre façon de tricoter (ggt = glisser, glisser, tricoter) - pour le tricot en hélice...
Iris Bloom Bonnet First and foremost: yes, this yarn is divine. Simply heavenly. Gorgeous, lovely to knit, and beautifully variegated. But even if you don't have or can't find this particular fiber, you're in luck, because I have a sneaking suspicion that this super fun hat would look great in almost any worsted weight yarn. And if that's not incentive enough to make this hat, then consider this: I actually wrote up two patterns for this little beauty - one version that includes knitting in the round, and one that's made entirely on straight needles. Both begin in the same way, below. Note as of 11/24/15: This hat fits like an adult small. I have adapted the in-the-round version of the pattern for an adult large in the comments below. :) Update February 22, 2021: For some reason, the comments no longer seem to work on this post. Please email me with any questions at [email protected]. Yarn: Malabrigo Rios (100% Merino Superwash; 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams); #416 Indiecita - one skein This stitch pattern makes me wanna say "yeah!" My kids would be so embarrassed. Needles: One set of straight needles in size US 5, one set of straight needles in size US 7, one 16" circular needle in size US 7, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 7 (if you're knitting it entirely on straight needles, you don't need the circulars or dpns) Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette So let's get started! For either version of this hat, we'll be working from the brim of the piece, and we'll begin by working back and forth rather than in the round. As such, using your straight needles in size US 5, cast on 118 stitches loosely. Then work the following rows: Edging Row 1 (wrong side): p2, * k2, p2; rep from * Edging Row 2: k2, * p2, k2 * Knit rows 1 & 2 until the piece measures just over 1" and you've just finished Edging Row 1. Then we'll knit one marker placement row, as follows: Marker Placement Row (right side): k2, (p2, k2) 4 times, place marker, (p2, k2) 20 times, p2, place marker, k2, * p2, k2 * until end of row Complete this marker placement row and switch to your straight size US 7 needles. Then, we'll begin the main pattern, which is Knit-Twist Lattice from page 149 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. To do it, you'll need the following notation: rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right) You can also find videos for these techniques below: And once you've got that down, we'll proceed like so: Row 1 and all odd rows (wrong side): purl, slipping extra markers when you come to them Row 2: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (114 stitches) Row 4: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (110 stitches) Row 6: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (106 stitches) Row 8: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 * until you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (104 stitches) Row 10: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (102 stitches) Row 12: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (100 stitches) Row 14: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt * until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (98 stitches) Row 16: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 * until you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (96 stitches) Knit rows 1 - 16. At this point, our pattern diverges - first, I will give instructions for how to proceed with this hat in the round. After that, you'll find instructions for finishing it up on straight needles. So, first, the in the round version: Now that we've finished these 16 rows, you should be about to begin a wrong side row. Instead of doing that, however, we're going to join this bad boy in the round. With that in mind, transfer work to your 16" circular needle in size US 7, place marker, and join in round. And then we'll continue like so: Row 1 and all odd rows: knit, slipping extra markers when you come to them Row 2: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 4: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 6: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 * until you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 12: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 14: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt * until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 16: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 * until you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit until end of round Knit rows 1 - 16, and then knit row 1 again, removing extra markers when you come to them. Now it's time to begin the decrease portion of the hat, which goes as follows: Row 1: knit Row 2: * k10, k2tog * (88 stitches) Rows 3 & 4: knit Row 5: * k9, k2tog * (80 stitches) Row 6: knit Row 7: * k8, k2tog * (72 stitches) Row 8: knit You will probably want to switch to your dpns about now... Row 9: * k7, k2tog * (64 stitches) Row 10: * k6, k2tog * (56 stitches) Row 11: * k5, k2tog * (48 stitches) Row 12: * k4, k2tog * (40 stitches) Row 13: * k3, k2tog * (32 stitches) Row 14: * k2, k2tog * (24 stitches) Row 15: * k1, k2tog * (16 stitches) Row 16: * k2tog * (8 stitches) Knit rows 1 - 16, clip your yarn tail, and thread through final 8 stitches. Pull tight, thread to inside of hat, and knot. And now skip to the verrrrrry end of the post (right above the pictures), for the last bit of instructions. And while you in-the-round knitters are doing that, I'll finish up with the straight needle knitters. So if you're working on straight needles, pick up here! Last I left you, you had just finished knitting 16 rows in pattern with decreases. You're going to be continuing in much the same fashion at this point, except without the decreases. So let's proceed like so: Row 1 and all wrong side rows: purl, slipping extra markers when you come to them Row 2: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 4: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 6: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 * until you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 12: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 14: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt * until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 16: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 * until you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit until end of round Knit rows 1 - 16 and then knit row 1 again, removing extra markers when you work it. Now it's time to begin the decrease portion of the hat, which goes as follows: Row 1 (right side): knit Row 2: * p2tog, p10 * (88 stitches) Row 3: knit Row 4: purl Row 5: * k9, k2tog * (80 stitches) Row 6: purl Row 7: * k8, k2tog * (72 stitches) Row 8: purl Row 9: * k7, k2tog * (64 stitches) Row 10: * p2tog, p6 * (56 stitches) Row 11: * k5, k2tog * (48 stitches) Row 12: * p2tog, p4 * (40 stitches) Row 13: * k3, k2tog * (32 stitches) Row 14: * p2tog, p2 * (24 stitches) Row 15: * k1, k2tog * (16 stitches) Row 16: * p2tog * (8 stitches) Knit decrease rows 1 - 16, and then thread final 8 stitches to a scrap of yarn to hold for later. Beginning from where you stopped doing decreases in the original pattern (and where the in-the-round knitters switched to the round), seam hat. When you reach the top, pull seaming thread through final 8 stitches and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot. And now, for both in-the-round and straight needle knitters, we'll wrap up like so: Make 2 roughly 6" yarn tassels (instructions here) and attach to bottom corners of hat. Tuck in ends. Finally, if you completed this hat in the round, you may want to knot together the two stitches where you joined this hat in the round - although it should be fine structurally either way, knotting them will prevent them from pulling apart when this hat is worn. And let's face it - with a hat this cute, you're going to be wearing it a LOT.
Bonnet au tricotbonjour,pour les froids qui sont là, un bonnet qui se réalise à 2 aiguilles, et en fait vous en aurez deux, en effet il me manquait quelque
#Bonnet
She's A Betty Bonnet Isn't she, though? When's the last time I mentioned how much I love Malabrigo yarn? Let's be honest: I probably bored my kids with that knowledge earlier this morning. However, just because I'm a broken record doesn't mean that you can't make this super-sweet bonnet for yourself or a loved one (and I'll even let you use a chunky weight fiber that isn't Malabrigo if you really insist). My only note is that, while I finished this bad boy with just one skein of the Mecha, or 130 yards, it was a close call so you may need slightly more yarn to complete yours. But don't worry - this fancifully-finished design (check out the back below!) will be worth it either way. Yarn: Malabrigo Mecha (100% Merino Superwash Wool; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #809 Solis - 1 - 2 skeins A closer view of the back finish. It's different, no? Needles: Straight needles in size US 10.5, one 16" circular needle in size US 11 needle, and one set of double pointed needles in size US 11 Notions: Tapestry needle, 5 stitch markers Gauge: 12 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 11 needles So let's make a hat, then! First, then, since we'll begin by knitting flat, go ahead and use your size 10.5 needles to cast on 80 stitches loosely. Then we'll knit some ribbing, as follows: Ribbing Row 1 (wrong side): * p1, k2, p1; rep from * Ribbing Row 2: * k1, p2, k1 * Knit ribbing rows 1 & 2 until piece measures roughly 1.5" and you've just finished row 2 of the pattern. Transfer work to your size US 11 needle (yes, it's circular, but we're still working flat!). Then we'll work one marker placement row, as follows: Marker Placement Row (wrong side): p8, place marker, p24, place marker, p16, place marker, p24, place marker, p8 And once that's done, we'll begin our pattern as well as some decreases, which you'll find below. You'll need the following notation to continue (and you can find videos for the twists below as well): rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right) And once you have that down, we'll continue like so: Row 1 (right side): (lt) 4 times, slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, (rt) 4 times (-2 stitches) Row 2: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them Row 3: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1 slip marker, ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you're two stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1 (-2 stitches) Row 4: purl, slipping all markers when you reach them Knit rows 1 - 4 three times, and then knit rows 1 - 3 once more. Now you should have 16 stitches remaining between your first and second markers, and 64 stitches in total. We're going to join the hat in the round at this point, which your yarn should be in position for since you've left off at the end of a right side row. Anyway, then, join piece in round and place row marker - as a note, you'll probably either want to join by swapping your first and last stitches or reinforce this join when you're done with the hat. Either way, we'll continue as follows: Row 1: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them Row 2: (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times, (lt) 4 times, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, (rt) 4 times Row 3: knit, slipping extra markers when you reach them Row 4: k1, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k2, (lt) 3 times, k1, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, (rt) 3 times, k1 Knit rows 1 - 4 once or twice (I knit them twice; however, for a slightly shallower hat, once would be plenty) and then knit row 1 again. Then we'll begin our decrease rows, as follows: Decrease Row 1: (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times, (lt) 3 times, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) 3 times (60 stitches) Decrease Row 2: knit Decrease Row 3: k1, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, k1 (56 stitches) Decrease Row 4: knit Decrease Row 5: (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, (rt) twice (48 stitches) Decrease Row 6: knit You'll probably want to switch to your dpns about now... Decrease Row 7: k1, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k2, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, k1 (44 stitches) Decrease Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (40 stitches) Decrease Row 9: lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt, lt, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, rt (36 stitches) Decrease Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until end of round (32 stitches) Decrease Row 11: k1, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k2, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're 2 stitches from next marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k1 (24 stitches) Decrease Row 12: lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt, lt, remove marker, (ssk) twice, (k2tog) twice, remove marker, rt (16 stitches) Complete decrease rows 1 - 12. Then, knit across the first 4 stitches of your round. Next, transfer the following 8 stitches to one dpn for grafting, and the final 4 of the round, plus the 4 you just knit, to a second dpn. Using the Kitchener stitch, graft together these remaining 16 stitches. Tuck in ends and block, if desired. Make tassels and affix to bottom corners of hat. Wear proudly, even if you're a Veronica instead.
Ce modèle de bonnet pour bébé avec pompons m'a été proposé par Carmen (son blog ici) et j'en ai fait la traduction..... Bon tricot à toutes et bonnes vacances! Il vous faut une paire d'aiguilles n° 4 et une pelote de fil (125 m par pelote). Taille...
coucou les tricopines , nous avons toutes des modèles de tricot qu'on a absolument envie de faire, et qu'on ne fait pas - trop beau mais trop compliqué et qu'on refera peut-être.... voici un des miens : cet ensemble bonnet et tour de cou , le nom du...
Floral Mesh Bonnet I can proudly state that this is my first-ever matching product; in fact, it goes with last week's design, the Floral Mesh Scarf. And while I haven't ever used the same stitch pattern week-to-week before, I just couldn't resist with this one since, as soon as I saw the scarf completed, I knew it had to have a bonnet. I also sized it for children through adults for a super-fun, multi-seasonal look that will fit most everyone in your family. Why? Well, 'cause they're all going to want one! Sizes: Child's Small (Child's Large; Teen/Adult Small; Adult Large) (as far as the child's small and the child's large are concerned - think maybe 2 - 5 years for the small, 6 - 12 or so for the large) Yarn: Schoeller + Stahl Pantino (60% Cotton, 40% Acrylic; 98 yards [90 meters]/50 grams); #0007 Egg Yolk (that color name is still made up) - 2 skeins A close-up of the pattern. I left in the creepy eyes because I could. Needles: Straight needles in size US 5, 16" circular needle in size US 5, and one set of dpns, also in size 5 Notions: Tapestry needle, two stitch markers Gauge: 17 stitches = 4 inches So let's make a hat, shall we? First, then, we'll start with the brim of this bonnet, which is knit back and forth. So, using your straight needles, cast on 84 (98; 112; 126) stitches loosely. Then we'll knit a few edging rows, as follows. Notice you'll be placing two stitch markers on your third edging row. Edging Row 1 (right side): purl Edging Row 2: knit Edging Row 3: p8 (p11; p14; p17), place marker, p69 (p77; p85; p93), place marker, purl until end of row And once these three edging rows are done, it's time to work in our Floral Mesh pattern, which is from 218 of Barbara G. Walker's A Fourth Treasury of Knitting Patterns, as well as some decreases. I have written two sets of instructions for this pattern - Set 1 has decreases every other right side row, Set 2 has decreases every right side row. Which sets you'll be knitting and how many depend on the size of the hat you're making. See below for details. Child's Small - Knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 1 twice Child's Large - Knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 1 once, then knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 2 once Adult's Small - Knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 1 twice, then knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 2 once Adult's Large - Knit rows 1- 12 of Set 1 once, then knit rows 1 - 12 of Set 2 twice Set 1: Set 1 Row 1 and all wrong side rows: purl, slipping extra markers when you reach them Set 1 Row 2: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until you have three stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches) Set 1 Row 4: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * yo, slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso (sl2-k1-p2sso), yo, k3, yo, k2tog; rep from * until you have three stitches left before marker, yo, ssk, k1, slip marker, knit until end of row Set 1 Row 6: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, yo, * sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo; rep from * until you have 4 stitches left before marker, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1, slip marker, knit until you have two stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches) Set 1 Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until end of row Set 1 Row 10: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k2, yo, k2tog, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches) Set 1 Row 12: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2tog, yo, * k1, yo, ssk, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2tog, yo; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k1, yo, ssk, slip marker, knit until end of row Set 2: Set 2 Row 1 and all wrong side rows: purl, slipping extra markers when you reach them Set 2 Row 2: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until you have three stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches) Set 2 Row 4: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * yo, slip 2 together knitwise-k1-p2sso (sl2-k1-p2sso), yo, k3, yo, k2tog; rep from * until you have three stitches left before marker, yo, ssk, k1, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches) Set 2 Row 6: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, yo, * sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo; rep from * until you have 4 stitches left before marker, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1, slip marker, knit until you have two stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches) Set 2 Row 8: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches) Set 2 Row 10: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * k2, yo, k2tog, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k3, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches) Set 2 Row 12: ssk, knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2tog, yo, * k1, yo, ssk, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2tog, yo; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left before marker, k1, yo, ssk, slip marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (-2 stitches) Knit the given row combination for your size. At this point, you should have two stitches before your first marker and one after your second. It's also time to join this bad boy in the round. So, transfer work to your 16" circular needle, removing your markers when you do so (to be fair, I've been using my circulars the whole time, but if you are using straight needles than it's time to switch). Place marker, and join in round. Knit for 2" (2.25"; 2"; 2.25") in stockinette. Now we're ready to begin our decreases. Again, these differ slightly for the sizes, but only because you'll be beginning on a different row for each size. See below. Child's Small - begin on decrease row 7 Child's Large - begin on decrease row 5 Adult Small - begin on decrease row 3 Adult Large - begin on decrease row 1 And the decrease rows themselves: Decrease Row 1: * k10, k2tog * (88 stitches) Decrease Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, & 20: knit Decrease Row 3: * k9, k2tog * (80 stitches) Decrease Row 5: * k8, k2tog * (72 stitches) Decrease Row 7: * k7, k2tog * (64 stitches) You may want to switch to your dpns about now... Decrease Row 9: * k6, k2tog * (56 stitches) Decrease Row 11: * k5, k2tog * (48 stitches) Decrease Row 13: * k4, k2tog * (40 stitches) Decrease Row 15: * k3, k2tog * (32 stitches) Decrease Row 17: * k2, k2tog * (24 stitches) Decrease Row 19: * k1, k2tog * (16 stitches) Decrease Row 21: * k2tog * (8 stitches) Knit your given start row through decrease row 21, clip yarn tail, and thread through final 8 stitches. Pull tight, thread to inside of hat, and knot. Using your dpns, pick up 5 stitches along one of the bottom corners of hat, and work an i-cord until it measures 8" (9"; 10"; 11"). Bind off and repeat on other corner. Tuck in ends and block.
Découvrez toutes nos idées de projets à tricoter avec une seule pelote de laine. Vous avez tendance à acheter plus de laine que besoin "au cas où" ?. Une pelote solitaire trône dans votre placard et vous ne savez pas quoi en faire ?
Bonnet pour celles qui ne savent pas ... tricoter à 4 aiguilles, ce n'est pas toujours facile, alors je vous propose ce bonnet tout simple à faire
2 pelotes de fils à tricoter P****** qualité Partner col iris plus qq g de lotus et pétunia aig 5.5 1 crochet 4 Monter 74 m sur les aig et tricoter 12 rg de jersey endroit puis continuer en points de godron(3 rg jersey env, 3 rg de jersey endroit)...
Een makkelijke muts breien. Wil je geen muts kopen, maar heb je er wel een nodig? Heb je wol, breinaalden en beetje tijd, dan is zelf een muts breien helemaal niet moeilijk. Als je de basistechnieken van het breien al onder de knie hebt,...
le béret Capricho de chez Drop aux aiguillesbonjouren général février, c'est peut-être le mois le plus court mais c'est aussi en général le mois le plu
Knit Unisex Cable Beanie Hat Free Knitting Pattern
Fini le jersey qui s'enroule sur lui même et qui roulotte à n'en plus finir. Avec ce nouveau point de tricot, vous découvrirez un jersey qui ne roule pas.
Le bonnet slouchy, c'est un joli bonnet ample avec plein de torsades que j'ai tricoté pour offrir à une personne que j'aime beaucoup pour Noël. J'ai trouvé un patron qui me plaisait bien sur Ravelry, le Star Crossed Slouchy Beret de Natalie Larson, gratuit et en anglais et voilà le résultat : Bonnet slouchy ***** Aiguilles : circulaires, taille 8 Laine
![Knitted Traveling Cable Hat [FREE Knitting Pattern]](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/91/f2/43/91f243ca95741a19b618cffbb793fdc6.jpg)
Make This Gorgeous Knitted Traveling Cable Hat For The Entire Family
Partage de modèles gratuits , trouvés sur le net . Pour avoir bien chaud en hiver , voici un choix d' accessoires au crochet : Bonnets , Chapeaux , Echarpes , Tours de cou , Mitaines , ect ... Belle journée à toutes !,
