Description PATENTED NOV. 19, 1907. E. H. WRIGHT. v BUSTLB. APPLICATION FILED JAN.31.1907. N VE N TO? 27% 12 /1 01" W/TNESSES rapid 8 wm/ll F60 A TTOHNE rs "HE mmms PETERS ca. WASHINGTON, o. a EMILY HIGENBOTI-IAM WRIGHT, OF PORT WASHINGTON, NEW YORK. BUSTLE Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Nov. 19, 1907. Application filed a ary 31.1907. Serial No. 354.995 T 0 all whom it may concern: Be it known that I, EMILY HIGENBOTHAM WRIGHT, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Port Washington, in the county of Nassau and State of New York, have invented a new and Improved Bustle, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description. The invention relates to wearing apparel, and its object is to provide a new and improved bustle,which is simple, durable and exceedingly light in construction, and arranged to maintain its shape under all conditions of legitimate use, and to insure a proper hanging of the wearers skirt. The invention consists of novel features and parts and combinations of the same, which will be more fully described hereinaf- I ter and then pointed out in the claims. A practical embodiment of the invention is represented in the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification, in which similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the views. Figure 1 is a face view of the improvement; Fig. 2 is a transverse section of the same, on the line 22 .of Fig. 1, and Fig. 3 is an enlarged sectional perspective view of a portion of the body of the bustle. The body A of the bustle is formed of a stiff material, preferably papier mach, formed of several paper layers A and a layer A of a textile fabric, such as muslin, interosed between the paper layers A, to reinforce the papier-mach body A. The body A has an approximately spherical curvature, that is, is arched in a lengthwise and transverse direction, and is of crescent shape when viewed in plan, the wall of the recess A being curved to fit the waist of the wearer, and the corners or points of the body A being provided with eyelets B for receiving tying strings C, by which the bustle is secured in place on the waist of the wearer. In order to stiffen the body A, the outer portion A is preferably corrugated, the corrugations following or being concentric with the peripheral edge of the body A, as plainly indicated. in Fig. 1. The inner portion A of the body A is provided with inwardly extending apertured projections A, the walls of the apertures being preferably reinforced by gromets D. Now by use of the projections A the body A is spaced at the inner portion A from the next nether garment of the wearer, and the overlying skirt or like outer garment extends smoothly over the outer face of the body A, but as the inward projections A form depressions on the outer face of the body A (see Fig. 2) it is evident that suitable vents are bad by way of the apertured projections A, to allow proper ventilation on both the inner and outer faces of the bustle. In manufacturing the body A, the paper material with the reinforcing layer A embedded in the material is pressed into shape while the paper is in a moist condition, and for this purpose use is made of suit able molds, it being understood that the material on setting and hardening permanently maintains the form given to the body by the mold. A bustle made in the manner described is exceedingly durable, extremely light, and insures a' proper hanging of the skirt at all times. Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent: 1.. As a new article of manufacture, a bustle consisting of a body made of a stiff material and of an approximately spherical curvature, the body having inwardly extending apertured projections for forming vents, and attaching devices at the points of the said body. 2. As a new article of manufacture, a bus tle comprising a body made of stiff material of a uniform thickness, and of an approximately spherical curvature and crescent shape, the stiff material consisting of papier-mach reinforced by a textile fabric, and apertured projections permanently arranged on the inner face of said body. 3. As a new article of manufacture, a bustle comprising a body made of stiff material of a unlform thickness, and of an approximately spherical curvature and crescent shape, the stiff material consisting of papiermach reinforced by a textile fabric, the body having apertured projections on its inner face and depressions on its outer face 0pposite the projections. 4. As a new article of manufacture, a bustle comprising abody made of stifl'materia] of a uniform thickness and of an approximately spherical curvature and crescent shape, the said stiff material being formed of several paper layers, and a reinforcing piece of a textile fabric interposed between the paper vided with corrugations following its peripheral edge. 5. As a new article of manufacture, a bustle comprising a body made of stiff material of a uniform thickness and of an approximately spherical curvature and crescent shape, the outer portion of the body being corrugated, the corrugations following the peripheral edge ofithe body. 6. As a new article of manufacture, a bus tle comprising a body made of stiff material of a uniform thickness and of an approximately spherical curvature and crescent corrugated, the corrugations following the peripheral edge of the body, and the inner portion of the body being provided with inwardly extending apertured projections to provide vents for the bustle. In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses. EMILY HIGENBOTHAM WRIGHT. Witnesses: EDWARD D. PALMER, WILKINSON D. WRIGHT, MAURICE LEVI; layers, the body being apertured and proshape, the outer portion of the body being 15

Description (No Model.) . M. B. HAMMOND; BUSTLEJ Patented Nov 15, 1887. N4 PETERa Pnulnilhuwp er. Wnhingmn. Did UNITED STATES PATENT Erica. M. BURDETTE HAMMOND, or BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT. BUSTLE. SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 373,286, dated November 15, 1887. Application tiled May 31, 1887. Serial No. 239,802. (No model.) .To aZZ whom it may concern.- Be it known that I, M. BURDETTE HAM: MOND, a citizen of the United States, residing at Bridgeport, in the county of Fairlield and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Folding Bustles; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear,.and exact description of the. invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same. My invention relates to the construction of folding bustles, and has for its object to provide a simple and inexpensive construction that may be readily folded, and that, in both the expanded and collapsed positions, will have increased strength at the upper portion thereof, so that there will be no possibility of the bustle becoming crushed or bent in the slightest by the weight of a heavy dress. With these ends in view I have devised the simple and novel construction, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, numbers being used to denote the several parts. Figure 1 is a perspective illustrating my improved bustlein the distended position, and Fig. 2 is a side elevation showing it in the collapsed position. 1 denotes the belt, and 2 strips connecting the bustle to the belt. 3 denotes the foundation-piece, which extends upward from the bottom at each side of the bustle and across the top of the bustle. 4 denotes ribs eyeleted, pivoted, or otherwise loosely secured to the foundation-piece, and 5 denotes a stay-piece, which extends upward from the bottom of the bustle in the distended position and'curves over at the top, as clearly shown in Fig. 1, the normal position of the stay-piece being, in fact, parallel or substantially parallel with the foundationpiece. This stay-piece is eyeleted, riveted, or otherwise secured to each of the ribs at each side of the bustle. Any number of ribs may of course be used, depending upon the style and shape of the bustle. 6 is a supplemental rib, the opposite ends of which are pivoted to the stay-piece, and which lies between the stay-piece and the upper rib. the stay-piece, supplemental rib, or ribs, if more than one are used, and each of the ribs I proper of the bustle. It should be noted that each of the connections of the ribs, supplemental ribs, stay-piece, and foundation-piece to each other is a loose-that is, a pivot-connection, so that when the bust-1e is pressed inward the parts will fold readily over each other, as clearly shown in Fig. 2. 8 denotes an adjusting cord extending across the bustle and connecting the opposite sides of the foundation-piece, so that the width ofthe bustle may be readily adjusted to suit the taste of the wearer or the style of the dress. The operation of folding is similar to that of other bustles oithis class, and will be readily understood from Fig. 2. In order to return the bustle to the distended position after it has been collapsed, any ordinary means may be usedfor example, springs 9, at opposite sides of the bustle, which extend diagonally from one rib near the foundation-piece to a rib above it, but are attached to the upper rib some distance out toward the back, as shown in Fig. 1. This spring may be a piece of elastic or a coiled spring, and may be placed outside of the stay-piece, as at the right in Fig. 1, or inside of the stay-piece, as at the left in Fig. 1. The foundatioupiece, stay-piece, and the ribs may be made of any ordinary or preferred materialas round, fiat, or twin wire. In my improved bustle twin wire will be found to have ample strength for the purpose required. The effect of the stay-piece is to give great strength to that portion of the bustle where most strength is requiredthat is, at the top of the bustle, but some distance out from the belt. In my improved bustle the weight of the heaviest cloth dresses will have no effect what- ICO details of construction may be greatly varied without departing from the spirit of my invention. I claim- 1. A folding bustle consisting of a foundn tion;piece, a series of ribs pivotally connected thereto, it stay-piece extending over the top and pivotally connected to each rib on opposite sides thereof, a strip connecting the ribs with the foundation-piece, and springs by which the bustle is returned to the distended position. 2. The foundation -piece, substantially as described, the ribs pivotally connected thereto, and the stay-piece extending over the top of the hustle and pivotally connected to the ribs on opposite sides, in combination with a supplemental rib pivoted to the stay-piece, a connecting-strip, and springs for returning the bustle to the distended position. 3. In afolding bustle, the combination, with a foundation-piece, ribs pivotully connected thereto, and a strip connecting the ribs with the fonndation-piece, of a stay-piece, 5, pivotally connected to the ribs on opposite sides thereof and curving over at the top to form a support for the dress in use. In testimony whereof I afiix my signature in presence of two witnesses. M. BURDETTE HAMMOND. W'itnesses: A. M. Woosrnn, O. E. RUGGLEs.

Every once in a while, fashion - like art, music, food, children and other aspects of one's life - goes through an unfortunate phase. One such phase occurred in the 19th century. The bustle. I'm not sure if this fashion tort will ever again inflict its beasty society upon right-thinking members of society. We cannot,…

The enduring fascination with lingerie

We are the the most famous shop worldwide for buying antique dresses, antique gowns, antique hats, antique shoes, antique corsets, antique lingerie.

Time for pretty pictures again, this time of black bustle dresses. I'd guess ranging from ca. 1875 to ca. 1885. All from La Mode Illustree. Beware of a very image-heavy post, because I'm bad at choosing. They're placed chronologically, so you can see the progress in styles from big and fluffy to sleek to the revival…

I know, it's the middle of July, and where I am it's the middle of summer. Despite that, I'm doing a post with pictures of winter bustle dresses. The main reason is that I got new shoes! American Duchess was having a sale, and I couldn't resist, and I got the Victoria carriage boots. They're…

I had my very first successful alterations appointment on Tuesday. [THANK YOU 2ND BRIDE FOR YOUR RECOMMENDATION!!!] Surprisingly, it was the very first time I had ever...

Drexel University professor David Raizman is currently directing the History of Modern Design NEH Summer Institute here in the URBN Center. The group includes visiting scholars who are leading discussions for twenty-five selected college faculty members, with the goal of preparing them to "meet the increasing demand for . . . courses on modern design history." One of…

Women’s clothes as an aid to dating photographs.

Bustles — The Gilded Thimble

Description UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE. THOMAS A. EARL, OF NORTH ATTLEBOROUGH, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR v TO HIMSELF AND CHARLES A. DURGIN. IMPROVEMENT IN BUSTLES. Specification forming` part of Letters Patent No. 25,786, dated October l1, 1859. To all lwhom, t may concern: Be it known that I, THoMAs A. EARL, of North Attleborough, Bristol county, Massachusetts, have invented a new and Improved Adjustable Bustle for the Expansion of Ladies7 Dresses; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description thereof, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, figures, and letters of reference thereon, making part of this specification. In the said drawings, Figure 1 denotes a side elevation of my improved bustle detached from the skirt on a person. Fig.'2 is a side elevation of the same attached to and made part of a hoopskirt when not on a person. Fig. 3 is a back side View of the same. Similar letters of reference indicate like parts in all the drawings. In the manufacture of ladies skirtsA it has been found desirable, and is now by the trade deemed a prerequisite, that all skirts shall be provided with some device by which the bustle or expansion may be regulated. Heretofore all devices for this purpose have consisted of lacings or similar devices which were incon- Venient and illy contrived for this purpose, subjecting the wearer to inconveniece in adjusting, and disagreeable on the person. The nature of my invention is to effectually remedy all these objections and provide a bustle of the simplest construction and capable of ready adjustment, as will be more fully hereinafter set forth. To this end, and to enable others skilled in the art to make and use my invention, I will proceed to describe its construction and operation. A A represent hoops, secured together in circular form by metallic fastenings. B B are the vertical supporting-strips, attached to the hoops by sewing or proper fastenings. C C are segments of hoops, which reach about half-way around the person, and are secured in like manner to the supporting-strips as the hoops, the ends being made fast at b. D is the belt, having a proper clasp, a, or fastening to secure it around the waist of the person. E is a projecting piece, which is securely fastened to the belt at c, as seen in Fig. 3. F is a metallic clasp fitted to the projecting piece E, so as to slide thereon, and is held in place by friction or otherwise. G is a strip, which is secured to the ends of the segments C C, as shown in Figs. l and 3, and passes through the slide F at d. Operation: The bustle being placed upon the wearer, the clasp F on the piece E (which ts the hollow of the back,and is consequently held at an angle) being up to the belt there is little or no expansion, and to adjust it to any degree is only necessary to reach back the hand and move the clasp F on the projecting piece E down, which,by means of the strip G, draws back the segments,and thereby expands the dress to the desired fashionable position. The adjustment is almost instantly accomplished and to any degree by moving the clasp up to or away from the belt D. I do not conne myself to a bustle attached to a hooped skirt, as I intend to apply them to the various kinds of ladies skirts, or use them separately, as described; neither do I limit myself to any style of clasp or mechanism for operating it. I claim The segments O, supported as described, in combination with the projecting strut E, slide F, and strip G, the whole being constructed and operated substantially as set forth and described. THOMAS A. EARL. [L s] Witnesses: G. A. DURGIN, D. G. BowLANDs.

Finding the wedding gown of your dreams is similar to finding the man of your dreams-- there are lots of options, but when you find the one ...

Description proper position on the wearer. view from the under side, showing the con-` Uiv/ITED STATES PATENT GEEIcE. ` ROBERT BIERING, OF NEW YORK, N. Y. IMPRovEMENT IN BUsTLEs. Specicaticn forming part of Letters Patent No. 168,130, dated September 28, 1875; application led Mayl 3,A 1875. To all whom't may concern: Be it known thatl, ROBERT BrERrNe, of . the city, county, and State of New York, Yhaveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in PompadouuBustles, of which the following is' a specification: My invention relates to that class of'bustles which, when secured to the waist of the it consists in the lower portion being remova- .bly and adjustablyattached to the upper or bustle proper; also, in the construction and forms of the" said bustle, as will be hereinafter fully described. In the drawings, Figure l is a perspective view, "showing my improved bustle in its Fig. 24 is a struction ofthe trail-support. Fig.3 is avfront view, showing the bustle detached from `the wearer. Fig. et is a side view, showing the adjustment of the trail-support. Figs. 5 and 6 are,respectively, plan and sectional views, illustrating the manner of removing the springs. Heretofore,.in constructing bustles of this class, it has been `customary to make them similar to one-half of a hoop-skirt, having no bodycloth, and consisting only of a series of springs bent into the form of a semicircle, i and connected together by tapes properly arranged and spaced. This form'provides no support whatever. for the trail of the dress. My ,bustle consists of two distinct portions: The upper part or bustle proper A, and the lower part B, which I will designate as'the trail-support. The bustle A is, preferably, ` angle named being obtuse, it follows that' assisting in its support. whenl the ends of the band O are brought around and fastened in front the said wings stand out full, and are drawn smoothly over thehips of the wearer, thus holding' the bustle firmly in place, (see Fig. 1,) and materially With these gussets or wings it is imposible `for thev bustle to slip'around to the side of the wearer. E E are webs. of cloth secured at one edge to the bustle, and provided at their free edges with eyelets for lacing. In theordinary bustle the lacing vcannot be accomplished while the bustle is attached to the wearer; but in mine, as herein shown, the ends of the lace-cord are passed upthrough eyelets in the top of the bustle at b, and tied on the outside, thus rendering the padjustment easy and convenient after the bustle is put on. rlhe edges of the. bustle are stiffened by the insertion of springs c c, which extend upward from the bottom of the bustle A to the points d d, justabove the lower corners of the wings D D. The lower portion or trail-support B is 'formed of one thickness of cloth only', to avoid unnecessary weight, and the shirrs are formed by stitching on tape of suitable width, asA shownat j, in Fig. 5. The upper edge of thev trail-support conforms in size to the lower edge of the bustle proper, and is attached removably and adjustably thereto by means of buttons e e, or other equivalent device. I provide several button-holes in the support B, arranged vertically, one above the other, preferably in three rows, one at each side, and one behind, by which means the trail-support may be adjusted as to height. By engaging the lower button-holes at the sides, and the upper at the back, as in Fig. 4, the trail is caused to droop behind. Beversing the operation causes a reverse eiiect. By the proper shaping of the cloth and arrangement of the shirrs or spring-cases, I produce the gracefully-curved projecting support j one or more rows of muslin ruffles, fi, stitched thereon, as shown. f-terial maybe substituted, as, for instance, 2 p f j 168,130 t 0r, if desired, other mastriped or figured dark fabric, to resemble balmoral skirts. suitable eyelets and laces for adjusting the width, are required for the trail-support B, as well as the bustle A. To prevent said sup port from wrinkling at the bottom, I provide the edges with stiffening-'springs g g, which extend upward to a point about half-way to the junction of the two portions A B. To enable the entire garment to be washed, I provide for the easy removal of the springs, as follows: At a point, k, near one end of the shirrs, said shirr is cut or omitted for a short space. rllhe spring is removed (see Fig. 6) by bending up the exposed portion, which releases the short end; the spring may then be drawn fout. By reversing the operation, the spring is readily replaced. ,j To prevent the bustle from swinging sidewise, or backward, and retain it closely to the person, I provide bands G G, preferably of muslim in two thicknesses with strips of elastic webbing interposed or inserted in suitable shirrs while in a state of tension. These bands may be attached to the bustle in any convenient manner, but preferably removable, and after the bustle is put on are brought round y to the front and secured together. Their elas- Yticity permits the free use of the limbs in the act of sitting down, or when walking. It will sometimes be desirable to remove the part B entirely, and wear only the part A. This can, of course, be done very readily either before or after putting on. Having thus described my invention, I claim- Webs E' E', provided with- 1. The bustle A, provided with a waistband, C, and wings D D, arranged to be drawn over the hips, when constructed substantially in the manner shown. 2. A bustle, A, provided with an adjustable and removable lower portion or trail-support, B, when constructed and arranged in the manner substantially as shown. 3. A bustle, A, provided with Webs E E, having suitable laces and lacing-holes, the ends of the said laces passing out through holes in the top of the bustle at b, so as to be idjusted from and tied on the outside, as .set orth. 4. In combination with the bustle A, the trail-support B, attached adjustably and removably thereto, and provided with a curved rear projection, f, substantially as shown, and for the purposes set forth. 5. In combination with the bustle A and trailsupport B, constructed as herein described, the elastic bands G G, as and for the purposes specified. 6. A pannier or bustle constructed with a series of concealed pockets, j j, having openings h h, iu combination with springs a a detachably inserted iu the pockets j j, substantially as and for the purpose set forth. In witness whereof I have hereunto signed my name in the presence of two subscribing witnesses. ROBERTY BIEBING. Witnesses HENRY OONNETT, ARTHUR C.. FRASER.

Undergarments and supports were the foundation underpinning female fashion up until the early twentieth century. Foundation garments formed the rigid basis that moulded the contours of the wearers body into fashionable silhouettes, further enhanced by the drape and shape of the garment worn on top. One of the earliest examples of a foundation garment in…

One of hundreds of thousands of free digital items from The New York Public Library.

There are many good things about The Buccaneers (1995), the BBC miniseries based on an unfinished novel by Edith Wharton. It’s delightful eye candy all around — set in the late 1870s to…

Discover the extraordinary structures that gave Victorian fashion its form.