I’m so pleased to bring you all the Moon Landing Blanket free pattern! Named for its resemblance to moon boots and for those outlandish bobbles, Moon Landing is a unique hexagon blanket that …

With his mysterious hooded cloak, this fox free crochet pattern will be a charming addition to your amigurumi animal collection!

I still can’t believe Rozeta is out there already. I’ve been keeping it for myself for such a long time (for over two years). And suddenly it went LIVE last week. And you even started to make gauge swatches. I am happy, scared, nervous and excited – all in one! But there is no way to go back, haha. So today we begin! Part 1 of Rozeta CAL is done in tapestry crochet – we will be growing a cute flower. If you made a gauge swatch last week, just continue with it, as your swatch is also a part of Week 1. And if this is the first time you hear about Rozeta, please check General Information HERE and a photo-tutorial for Special Stitches and Techniques HERE. If you are late to the party, there are still kits available for purchase, through they are flying fast. Kits are available from most Scheepjes retailers: local Scheepjes stockists (Please, support your local yarn shop!!) Wool Warehouse* (International) Black Sheep Wools* (International) Deramores* (International) Caro’s Atelier* (Netherlands and Europe) I hope you did a thorough home work last week and organized your colors according to the color key. Week 1 is a great opportunity to double check your gauge as you will find exact yarn amounts of each color you should use to complete it. Please, carefully weigh your skeins (without the labels) before and after work to see how much yarn you used. And also measure your piece after you are done. Then you can be sure you are “on track” with gauge and yardages, and yarn in the kit will be enough to finish the blanket successfully. Here is a couple of extra notes for you: Relax! The tension of the inner yarn should be relaxed and even. If you pull it (even a little bit), it may result in shrinking of your mandala and it will become smaller. Make sure your stitches are even throughout. Tighten a loop a bit after every color change. Don’t try to make your piece look perfect. The inner yarn WILL be seen through the stitches, especially if you work with Our Tribe yarn. If you missed an increase on previous round, just add extra increase on the current round without frogging and remaking. In wide sections with one color these extra increases will not be noticeable. Though ideally you should be careful, count well and not miss anything :) IMPORTANT! To make sure your gauge doesn’t change throughout the pattern, please check it after every few rounds: the mandala must stay flat! Approximate measurements of every part are given in the pattern to help you. For an easy check: one row with dc (in tapestry) measures approx. 1cm/0.39” in height in Our Tribe yarn and 1.115cm/0.44” in Colour Crafter yarn. Find complete written instructions on Scheepjes website HERE. And don’t forget to check videos by Esther of It’s All in A Nutshell: UK right handed, UK left handed, NL right handed, NL left handed. Photo-Tutorial Round 1. First two rounds are worked with main color only. Round 3. On this round we start using new color and continue to work in tapestry crochet. Rounds 4-6 Round 7. Please, note that first two dc (increase) will be made in same stitch as join. Slight cupping after this round is normal. Please, gently stretch your mandala with hands to see if it’s flat. In the end of this round you will change to another color for Colour Crafter version. Round 8 Round 9 Round 10 Round 11. Don’t miss a slip stitch in the beginning of the round!! The repeat section on this round will start and end differently – in the middle of main color. To make the join invisible, don’t grab contrast yarn up when joining the round, but do it with only Yarn A. the join on the right side will be neater, and you’ll have floats of yarn on the back side. Round 12 Round 13 Round 14 And we are done with Part 1. See you next week :) Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.

This charming Rabbit Free Crochet Pattern comes together quickly with continuous rounds of single crochet. Get the pattern here!

Enjoy this free big apple amigurumi pattern by Hobimstand. Create two cute crochet green apple and red apple for yourself or your beloved child!

My large and colorful Zoodiacs C2C Crochet Afghan - 12 squares depicting the 12 animals in the Chinese Zodiac, worked with c2c crochet and joined together.

Sea Square was designed especially for Granny Square Day 2019 and Chunky Monkey yarn by Scheepjes. It uses a combination of linen stitch and “brioche” crochet. With lots of texture, light weight and nice drape. It can be turned into a pillow cover or used as an afghan block. Disclosure: this blog post contains affiliate links (marked with *) Pattern Notes Sea Square is worked in rounds with alternating right and wrong sides. The rounds are joined in the corners. Only one color is used per round and yarn is not cut at the end of every round (unless otherwise stated in the pattern). What you’ll need Yarn in three colors. I used "Chunky Monkey" by Scheepjes* (Aran, 100% Premium Acrylic; 100g/116m/127yds.), yarn weight: Aran (8 wpi) Yarn A: 1218 x 1 ball (60g) Yarn B: 2005 x 1 ball (25g) Yarn C: 1302 x 1 ball (55g) Crochet hook 5mm or size needed to get an acceptable gauge. Gauge for Chunky Monkey: after 7 rounds square measures 10cm/4” across. Alternative yarn – Scheepjes "Softfun"* (DK; 60% Cotton x 40% Acrylic; 50g/140m/153yrds): Yarn A: 2466 x 1 ball (20g) Yarn B: 2510 x 1 ball (10g) Yarn C: 2519 x 1 ball (15g) Crochet hook 3.5mm Gauge for Softfun: after 10 rounds square measures 10cm/4” across. Alternative yarn – Scheepjes "Stone Washed"* (Sport; 78% Cotton x 22% Acrylic; 50g/130m/142yrds) Yarn A: 813 x 1 ball (25g) Yarn B: 804 x 1 ball (10g) Yarn C: 830 x 1 ball (17g) Crochet hook 4mm Gauge for Stone Washed: after 10 rounds square measures 10cm/4” across. Alternative yarn – Scheepjes "Organicon"* (Fingering; 100% Cotton Organic Soft; 50g/170m/186yrds): Yarn A: 216 x 1 ball (13g) Yarn B: 200 x 1 ball (6g) Yarn C: 201 x 1 ball (11g) Crochet hook 3mm Gauge for Organicon: after 13 rounds square measures 10cm/4” across. This square was made by Laura Jackson (aka @taemombo) Finished size The size of the finished square depends on the yarn and hook you use. Mine are approx. 35cm/13.5” for Chunky Monkey, 25cm/10” for Softfun and Stone Washed, 18cm/7" for Organicon. Abbreviations (US terms) and Stitch guide BPdc (back post double crochet): yo, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice. ch – chain dc (double crochet): yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice. FPdc (front post double crochet): yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice. FPtr2tog (front post treble crochet 2 together): [yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, (yo, pull through 2 lps) twice] twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook. sc (single crochet): insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook. rep – repeat ss (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull second lp through the first lp on hook. st(s) – stitch(es) yo – yarn over Pattern repeats: […….] x times work the instructions between brackets the total number of times stated *…….; rep from * to ….. work the instructions after * and then rep that section as instructed INSTRUCTIONS An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video-tutorials are NOT allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you! Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions and photo-tutorial HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy. Round 1 (RS): With Yarn A. Make magic ring, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st – here and throughout), [ch2, 1sc into ring] x4, join with ss into first sp, turn (change to Yarn B, don’t cut Yarn A) – 4 sc, 4 ch2-sps Round 2 (WS): With Yarn B. Ch1, 1sc in same sp, [ch1, skip next st, (sc, ch2, sc) in next sp] x3, ch1, skip next st, 1sc in same sp where first sc of the rounds was made, ch2, join with ss in first st inserting the hook from back to front, turn, ss in next sp (change back to Yarn A by grabbing it up behind work) – 2sc and 1 ch1-sp on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 3 (RS): With Yarn A. Ch2, 1sc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp; rep from * to last sc before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip next st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp in the corner] x3, rep from * to ** once more, 1sc in last ch2-sp (where first sc of the round was made – here and throughout), join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn B), turn – 3 sc and 2 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 4 (WS): With Yarn B. Ch1, 1sc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp; rep from * to one sc left before next ch2-sp in the corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next ch2-sp, ch2, join with ss in first st inserting the hook from back to front, turn, ss in next sp (change to Yarn A) – 4 sc and 3 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Rounds 5-8: Rep Rounds 3-4 twice Round 9: As Round 3, don’t turn at the end of the round – 9 sc and 8 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 10 (RS): Continue on RS with Yarn B. Ch3 (counts as ch2-sp), hdc in same sp, [*hdc in next sc, 1FPdc around st of same color from 2 rounds directly below, skip sp behind FPdc, rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner, hdc in next sc**, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2-sp in the corner] x3, rep from * to ** once more, 1hdc in last ch2-sp, join with ss into first sp, don’t change yarn, don’t turn – 8 FPdc, 11 hdc on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 11 (RS): Continue on RS and with Yarn B. Ch3 (counts as ch2-sp), hdc in same sp, [1BPdc around each st to ch2-sp in next corner, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2-sp] x3, 1BPdc around each st to last ch2-sp, 1hdc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp, turn (change to Yarn C, cut Yarn B) – 19 BPdc and 2hdc on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 12 (WS): With Yarn C. Ch1, 1sc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next st; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, ch2, join with ss in first st inserting the hook from back to front, turn, ss in next sp (change to Yarn A) – 12 sc and 11 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 13 (RS): With Yarn A. Ch2, sc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in skipped st from 2 rounds below (in front of work), ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn C), turn – 5 dc, 8sc and 12 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 14 (WS): With Yarn C. As Round 4 – 14 sc and 13 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 15 (RS): Ch2, sc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, *ch1, FPtr2tog (make first leg around st of same color from 2 rounds directly below, skip next st of same color from 2 rounds below, make second leg around next st of same color from 2 rounds below), ch1, 1sc in sp directly above same st as second leg of FPtr2tog just made; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in next ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn C), turn – 6 FPtr2tog, 9 sc and 14 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Rounds 16-19: Rep Rounds 14-15 twice. After Round 19 you’ll have 8 FPtr2tog, 11 sc and 18 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 20: Rep round 4 – 20 sc and 19 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 21 (RS): With Yarn A. Ch2, sc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1FPdc around sc of same color from 2 rounds below, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, 1FPdc around next st of same color from 2 rounds below; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn C, cut Yarn A), don’t turn – 10 FPdc, 11sc, 20 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Next rounds are made on RS. Rounds 22-24 (RS): With Yarn C. As Round 3. After Round 24 you’ll have 24 sc and 23 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Fasten off. Weave in all tails. Block square to measurements. Congratulations!! Your Sea Square is now finished! Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions and photo-tutorial HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy. Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.

crochet Dahlia Flower Applique free pattern

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Well hello there! Long time no ramble. So, as many of you wanted this pattern for my easy 2-tone diagonal granny square, I thought I'd give you the pattern here. To make the big crazy technicoloured blanket for my niece, I used a 5mm hook and an assortment of random DK yarn in clashy colours. Once I'd made as many squares as I needed, I simply slip stitched them together to join, before adding a border. Hank Deluxe approves... I think?? Here is the basic pattern, which uses UK crochet terms. Once you get to Round 5, you will be on a roll, so it's easy to add further rounds to make your squares bigger using exactly the same method. I think I made these squares using 8 rounds. Hints and tips 1. Turn work over at end of each Round, where indicated, working next Round on opposite side. 2. Each square is made of 2 colours, both yarns stay connected throughout. Leave the yarn not in use dangling down, ready to pick up again later. Fasten off both yarns when square is complete. 3. Blocking each square before joining makes for a beautiful crisp finish. Join squares together by placing 2 squares with RS tog and slip stitch into outside stitches on edge only. Pattern Instructions With Yarn A, ch4, join with ss into first ch to form a ring. Round 1 (RS): Ch3 (counts as first tr throughout), 2tr into ring, ch2, 3tr into ring, ch1. Change to Yarn B by dropping Yarn A to rear of work, then draw through loop of Yarn B. Do not fasten off Yarn A. With Yarn B, ch1, (3tr into ring, ch2) twice. Join with ss into top of ch-3 in Yarn A from start of round. Gently tie loose end of Yarn B onto Yarn A at your colour change-over point to secure. [3 tr per side made]. Turn work over to work next round on reverse side. Round 2 (WS): With Yarn B, ss into ch-2 sp just made, ch3, 1tr into same ch-sp, 1tr in each tr from previous round to next ch-2 sp, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-2 sp, 1tr in each tr from previous round to next ch-2 sp, (2tr, ch1) in ch-2 sp where colours join from previous round. Change to Yarn A by dropping Yarn B to rear of work, pick up Yarn A and pull through loop of Yarn A making a single strand to same height as a tr st (this strand does not count as a st throughout, it should be ignored!), ch1, 2tr in same ch-2 sp. Gently pull Yarn B to secure. 1tr in each tr to next ch-2 sp, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-2 sp, 1tr in each tr to next ch-2 sp, making final tr into top of ch-3 from start of previous round, in same place as the Yarn B join can be seen. (2tr, ch2) in ch-2 sp. Join with ss into top of ch-3 in Yarn B from start of round. [7 tr per side]. Turn work over. Round 3 (RS): With Yarn A, ss into ch-2 sp just made, ch3, 1tr into same ch-sp, 1tr in each tr to next ch-2 sp, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-2 sp, 1tr in each tr to next ch-2 sp, (2tr, ch1) in ch-2 sp where colours join from previous round. Change to Yarn B (using colour-change method as described in Round 2). Ch1, 2tr in same ch-2 sp. Gently pull Yarn A to secure. 1tr in each tr to next ch-2 sp, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-2 sp, 1tr in each tr to next ch-2 sp, making final tr into top of ch-3 from start of previous round, in same place as Yarn A join can be seen. (2tr, ch2) into ch-2 sp. Join with ss into top of ch-3 in Yarn A from start of round. [11 tr per side]. Turn work over. Round 4: Rep Round 2. [15 tr per side] Round 5: Rep Round 3. [19 tr per side]. Fasten off Yarn A and Yarn B, weave in all ends securely. Block squares to shape. Arrange squares as you wish, then join together (see Hints and tips) before adding the Edging. Edging Use 4.5mm hook if a slightly tighter edging is preferred. Round 1: Join yarn into any st on edge, 1dc into each st around, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in each of the four corners. Join with ss into first dc. Round 2: Ch1, rep Round 1. Fasten off yarn, weave in all ends. This technique is so versatile! You can go with a random pattern, or a very stylish geometric pattern like this: This version is called Wild Goose Chase and I made it using an aran yarn and 6mm hook. It first appeared in Crochet Now magazine, issue 16. OK, that's it for now, hope you enjoy this pattern! Esme x

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My large and colorful Zoodiacs C2C Crochet Afghan - 12 squares depicting the 12 animals in the Chinese Zodiac, worked with c2c crochet and joined together.

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Sea Square was designed especially for Granny Square Day 2019 and Chunky Monkey yarn by Scheepjes. It uses a combination of linen stitch and “brioche” crochet. With lots of texture, light weight and nice drape. It can be turned into a pillow cover or used as an afghan block. Disclosure: this blog post contains affiliate links (marked with *) Pattern Notes Sea Square is worked in rounds with alternating right and wrong sides. The rounds are joined in the corners. Only one color is used per round and yarn is not cut at the end of every round (unless otherwise stated in the pattern). What you’ll need Yarn in three colors. I used "Chunky Monkey" by Scheepjes* (Aran, 100% Premium Acrylic; 100g/116m/127yds.), yarn weight: Aran (8 wpi) Yarn A: 1218 x 1 ball (60g) Yarn B: 2005 x 1 ball (25g) Yarn C: 1302 x 1 ball (55g) Crochet hook 5mm or size needed to get an acceptable gauge. Gauge for Chunky Monkey: after 7 rounds square measures 10cm/4” across. Alternative yarn – Scheepjes "Softfun"* (DK; 60% Cotton x 40% Acrylic; 50g/140m/153yrds): Yarn A: 2466 x 1 ball (20g) Yarn B: 2510 x 1 ball (10g) Yarn C: 2519 x 1 ball (15g) Crochet hook 3.5mm Gauge for Softfun: after 10 rounds square measures 10cm/4” across. Alternative yarn – Scheepjes "Stone Washed"* (Sport; 78% Cotton x 22% Acrylic; 50g/130m/142yrds) Yarn A: 813 x 1 ball (25g) Yarn B: 804 x 1 ball (10g) Yarn C: 830 x 1 ball (17g) Crochet hook 4mm Gauge for Stone Washed: after 10 rounds square measures 10cm/4” across. Alternative yarn – Scheepjes "Organicon"* (Fingering; 100% Cotton Organic Soft; 50g/170m/186yrds): Yarn A: 216 x 1 ball (13g) Yarn B: 200 x 1 ball (6g) Yarn C: 201 x 1 ball (11g) Crochet hook 3mm Gauge for Organicon: after 13 rounds square measures 10cm/4” across. This square was made by Laura Jackson (aka @taemombo) Finished size The size of the finished square depends on the yarn and hook you use. Mine are approx. 35cm/13.5” for Chunky Monkey, 25cm/10” for Softfun and Stone Washed, 18cm/7" for Organicon. Abbreviations (US terms) and Stitch guide BPdc (back post double crochet): yo, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice. ch – chain dc (double crochet): yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice. FPdc (front post double crochet): yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice. FPtr2tog (front post treble crochet 2 together): [yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, (yo, pull through 2 lps) twice] twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook. sc (single crochet): insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook. rep – repeat ss (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull second lp through the first lp on hook. st(s) – stitch(es) yo – yarn over Pattern repeats: […….] x times work the instructions between brackets the total number of times stated *…….; rep from * to ….. work the instructions after * and then rep that section as instructed INSTRUCTIONS An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video-tutorials are NOT allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you! Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions and photo-tutorial HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy. Round 1 (RS): With Yarn A. Make magic ring, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st – here and throughout), [ch2, 1sc into ring] x4, join with ss into first sp, turn (change to Yarn B, don’t cut Yarn A) – 4 sc, 4 ch2-sps Round 2 (WS): With Yarn B. Ch1, 1sc in same sp, [ch1, skip next st, (sc, ch2, sc) in next sp] x3, ch1, skip next st, 1sc in same sp where first sc of the rounds was made, ch2, join with ss in first st inserting the hook from back to front, turn, ss in next sp (change back to Yarn A by grabbing it up behind work) – 2sc and 1 ch1-sp on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 3 (RS): With Yarn A. Ch2, 1sc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp; rep from * to last sc before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip next st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp in the corner] x3, rep from * to ** once more, 1sc in last ch2-sp (where first sc of the round was made – here and throughout), join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn B), turn – 3 sc and 2 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 4 (WS): With Yarn B. Ch1, 1sc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp; rep from * to one sc left before next ch2-sp in the corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next ch2-sp, ch2, join with ss in first st inserting the hook from back to front, turn, ss in next sp (change to Yarn A) – 4 sc and 3 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Rounds 5-8: Rep Rounds 3-4 twice Round 9: As Round 3, don’t turn at the end of the round – 9 sc and 8 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 10 (RS): Continue on RS with Yarn B. Ch3 (counts as ch2-sp), hdc in same sp, [*hdc in next sc, 1FPdc around st of same color from 2 rounds directly below, skip sp behind FPdc, rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner, hdc in next sc**, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2-sp in the corner] x3, rep from * to ** once more, 1hdc in last ch2-sp, join with ss into first sp, don’t change yarn, don’t turn – 8 FPdc, 11 hdc on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 11 (RS): Continue on RS and with Yarn B. Ch3 (counts as ch2-sp), hdc in same sp, [1BPdc around each st to ch2-sp in next corner, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2-sp] x3, 1BPdc around each st to last ch2-sp, 1hdc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp, turn (change to Yarn C, cut Yarn B) – 19 BPdc and 2hdc on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 12 (WS): With Yarn C. Ch1, 1sc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next st; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, ch2, join with ss in first st inserting the hook from back to front, turn, ss in next sp (change to Yarn A) – 12 sc and 11 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 13 (RS): With Yarn A. Ch2, sc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in skipped st from 2 rounds below (in front of work), ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn C), turn – 5 dc, 8sc and 12 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 14 (WS): With Yarn C. As Round 4 – 14 sc and 13 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 15 (RS): Ch2, sc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, *ch1, FPtr2tog (make first leg around st of same color from 2 rounds directly below, skip next st of same color from 2 rounds below, make second leg around next st of same color from 2 rounds below), ch1, 1sc in sp directly above same st as second leg of FPtr2tog just made; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in next ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn C), turn – 6 FPtr2tog, 9 sc and 14 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Rounds 16-19: Rep Rounds 14-15 twice. After Round 19 you’ll have 8 FPtr2tog, 11 sc and 18 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 20: Rep round 4 – 20 sc and 19 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Round 21 (RS): With Yarn A. Ch2, sc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1FPdc around sc of same color from 2 rounds below, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, 1FPdc around next st of same color from 2 rounds below; rep from * to one sc left before ch2-sp in next corner**, ch1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp] x3, rep from * to ** once more, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in last ch2-sp, join with ss in first sp (change to Yarn C, cut Yarn A), don’t turn – 10 FPdc, 11sc, 20 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Next rounds are made on RS. Rounds 22-24 (RS): With Yarn C. As Round 3. After Round 24 you’ll have 24 sc and 23 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner Fasten off. Weave in all tails. Block square to measurements. Congratulations!! Your Sea Square is now finished! Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions and photo-tutorial HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy. Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.

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