¿Buscando ideas para animar una pared? Cuadros, láminas y fotografías son un recurso perfecto. Inspírate en estos ambientes y crea composiciones con marcos a medida que sumen estilo a la decoración.
Compra Cuadro abstracto y colorido con ilustraciones en tonos azules y beige. Ideal para ambientes modernos, salones y salas de estar. Elige el tamaño y enmarcación que mejor te venga. La decoración es cuestión de gustos, y se te ha gustado esta obra podrás ver más del mismo estilo en nuestra colección de cuadros abstractos o cuadros coloridos
¿Quieres decorar alguna pared con fotografías? Mira estas 10 buenas ideas para decorar las paredes con fotos e inspírate.
Los marcos para fotos de madera son geniales para colocar todo tipo de gráficos y decorar todo espacio o crear una magnifica obra de arte para exponer.
Compra Cuadro de paisaje efecto acuarela con montañas y lago en tonos verdes y azules, además de frases sobre la obra. Un estilo diferente con un color especial, ese verde azulado tan especial. Para ver más obras de este estilo entra en nuestra colección de cuadros ilustración o cuadros de paisajes y naturaleza
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Do you have a lot of Plein Air paintings in your studio, and you want to give them nice frames on a budget? Well, look no further. Here is how I make some simple, inexpensive floater frames for my paintings. Materials: -1x2 Select Pine, Oak or Poplar (I think the texture of poplar is best if you are painting the frame and plan on doing an antique finish. Pine or oak looks better if you are staining and varnishing). Since this can be expensive at about $1 per board foot, we want to use this for the outside only. -1x2 Cheap pine (This will go on the inside of the frame. I paid $.99 for each 8ft piece). Look at the wood edge-on and make sure you get the straightest pieces you can find. -Wood Glue -E6000 Glue -Paint or stain/varnish -D-Ring hangers -Hanging wire Tools: -Measuring tape -C-Clamps or bar clamps -Band clamps -Miter Saw or table saw -Staple Gun Start with 1x2 pieces of cheap pine (left) and your nicer wood, in this case "Select pine" (right) Lay the nice piece face-down on your work table. The side that faces down is going to be the outside of the frame, so choose the best looking side. Apply wood glue to the cheap piece of pine, and place it on the top of the nice wood. Use a ruler to set the depth. Your painting is going to rest on this piece of wood, so keep in mind where the front of the painting will end up. I like to have my paintings inset 1/8 inch. Since this painting is on a panel that's about 1/4 inch, I'm going to set the depth at 3/8 inch. Once you measure the correct depth, use a c-clamp or a bar clamp to brace the pieces together while the glue dries. I like to measure the depth and put a clamp every foot or so. The more clamps, the straighter it will be. Use a pen to mark the back side of the molding. Using a miter saw, cut a 45 degree angle off the end. Next, take your painting and set it 1/8" from the edge. Always measure off the actual painting to ensure accuracy. Make a mark on the wood 1/8" from the other edge of the painting, and then use your saw to cut it. I like to cut the piece a little bit bigger than it should be, and then shave away small slices at a time until it is just the right size. Measure it up against the painting. It should have about 1/8" extra on either side. Use the backside of this first piece to measure off the opposite side of the frame. The most important thing now is to make sure each piece is exactly the same length as the opposite side. Once again, cut the piece a tiny bit bigger than you need it, and then use the saw to shave off thin slices, constantly comparing it back to the first piece. We're splitting hairs here... it needs to be perfect! The slightest difference in length will result in noticeable gaps in the corners. Repeat these steps for the other dimension of the painting. Test-fit your pieces together and make sure they join up right. Set up a band clamp around your frame, but don't tighten it yet. Remember the mark you made on the back side of the molding? Make sure it is facing down on each piece! Place glue on all the edges to be joined. Tighten the band clamp. As you tighten it, check how the corners are lining up. Make adjustments as you need to, and then tighten the clamp the rest of the way. With the clamp tightened, flip the frame over. Put a couple staples in each corner. You may notice that the back-side may have some slight gaps. That's ok, since we won't see it. We only really need to make sure the front and the edges line up and look as clean as possible. Flip it back over and put the painting in. Perfect fit! There is a 1/8" gap all the way around. This is where the "floater" name comes from. Leave the frame to dry overnight, then give them a good sanding in the morning. I like using a palm/rotary sander. Pay attention to the corners and edges. If you have any gaps where the pieces join, you can fill them in with wood filler. Use plenty. Let it dry overnight. Once this is dry, use a palm sander again and sand until it is flush. Now for painting. For my large frames, I like to use stain and satin polyurethane varnish. For my smaller frames, I came up with an antiqued gold look. Begin by spraying the frames with a bright gold. It's too bright on its own, so we need to tarnish it a bit... Brush on some burnt sienna ink. Let it soak momentarily, and then smear/dab with a paper towel. Use a couple coats if you want the frame to look more tarnished.You could use oil paint, wood stain, or just about anything else. Tint the gold in a way that would compliment your paintings. Using some black acrylic, paint the inside edge of the frame. You can paint the edge of your panel black too if you want. Use a flexible, silicon type glue to affix the painting to the frame. I like E6000. Put a pea-sized amount in each corner, and then gently place the painting on top. Center the panel. You can use pieces of cardboard as shims: place between the frame and panel edge while the glue sets. Let it dry overnight. When the glue is dry, put on some D-Rings and hanging wire. Bigger Frames: I like to use 1x3 planks for any paintings that are on stretched canvas. Set the depth the same way as the smaller frames. So, the frame for a 1 1/2" canvas would have a depth of 1 5/8". On a larger piece, I like to bump up the edge gap to 1/4". Also, when I'm using 1x3" planks, I like to have something more than just glue holding them together. I use pocket-hole screws when building the molding. When you are attaching the stretched canvas to the frame, use pieces of cardboard as spacers/shims to hold in the painting. Flip it over, and use screws to attach the frame. If you don't use the cardboard spacers the painting can get off-centered. Well, that's how I make frames. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Happy painting!
Está em busca de quadros, gravuras ou fotografias para decorar as paredes da sua casa de praia? Ou pretende levar o clima praiano para...
A question I seem to have come across a lot recently is how to develop your style as an artist – both as questions from others and as I think about my own art work. I have a slight issue with the word ‘style’ when it comes to creating art of any description: it seems too […]
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aborda conmigo como colocar de forma correcta los cuadros y fotos en tu vivienda
I recently decided to switch most of my office frames from black to white, for a cleaner, brighter look. Most of the frames I can paint, of course, but my black shadowbox frames have glass that can't be removed, and I couldn't find the same size again in white. The "before." So, together John and I figured out how to turn any fat frame into a shadowbox frame, and it's a lot easier than you think. All you need are a few simple tools, some acid-free foam board, and four glazier points. (I'll explain what those are in a minute.) We used this 5x7 frame from Ikea, which costs a whopping $2.99: Ikea frames are perfect for this tutorial, but you can use any frame that's nice and fat on the sides - say, an inch or more - and any size frame, as well. First, open up your frame and use pliers to yank out the metal brads or staples: Next replace the glass and backer board, and measure the depth from the board to the edge of your frame, like so: This measurement will tell you how wide to cut your foam core strips. Our strips were about three quarters of an inch thick. Make sure you use archival quality, acid-free foam core. You should be able to find it at your local craft store. Don't cut the foam core with scissors; it will crush the edges. Instead, use a craft or utility blade. To keep the blade from wobbling while you cut, brace it against a level or other straight edge with your finger, like John's doing here: Next mark your foam strip's length against your frame: Cut the strip, and then glue it to the interior side of your frame. Make sure the nicer edge of your foam strip is facing down towards the glass, and the rougher cut (if there is one) is facing up towards you. Did I mention you should have your glass in place before gluing the foam strip down? No? Ok, make sure you have your glass in place before gluing the strip down! Now repeat this process for all four sides of your frame. Gluing the final piece in place. Now replace your art, hold the original backer board in place, and take a peek: Not bad, eh? See how crisp the inside edges look? You'd never know that wasn't part of the original frame! (This is when I realized the paper behind my art has discolored, btw. I'll have to replace it soon.) We're not done yet, though; we still have to secure our frame's backer board. You could just duct tape the thing on, of course, but John and I wanted a stronger and more elegant solution, so we eventually decided on glazier's points. Glazier points are small metal triangular pieces used in installing glass panes. You can find them in any hardware store, and they're crazy cheap. (Maybe a dollar or two for a big pack.) To place the points, first mark where you want them to be on your frame with the backer board in place. Then remove the backer board and use a utility blade to notch a small slit at each mark: (If your frame is a soft wood, you can skip this step. Ikea frames have a hard enamel finish, though, so the notches help a lot.) Once you've made all four slits, replace your art and backer board again and use a large flat head screwdriver to carefully push the glazier points in place: When you're done, the back of your frame should look like this: And that's it! If you ever need to change your artwork, you can just pop the points out again with a screwdriver. My "before" art card still needs new paper, but here's another ACEO in my finished shadowbox frame: I couldn't be happier with how this turned out - and now I'm off to do the rest of my frames! I hope this helps if you ever find yourself in need of a cheap and easy shadowbox. And as always, please send me a picture if you try this out yourself! ***** Come see ALL of my craft projects on one page, right here!
John Payne, Senior Conservator of Paintings at the National Gallery of Victoria, describes in detail the various innovative frame designs, many of which may be described as Orientalist, used by thi…
¿Quieres decorar alguna pared con fotografías? Mira estas 10 buenas ideas para decorar las paredes con fotos e inspírate.
Compra Cuadro minimalista y geométrico, de tonos marrones y blancos. Un cuadro cargado de geometrías en forma de ondas consiguiendo también cierta sensación de 3D. Puedes escoger de entre nuestras enmarcaciones artesanales y únicas. Si te encanta este estilo,...
Que los marcos se inventaron para colocar fotos y pinturas en ellos no es nada nuevo. Aunque lo que debería destacar es el contenido y no el continente, desde hace siglos la gente ha sabido reconocer la belleza que desprenden muchos modelos. Sobre todo me refiero a esos marcos antiguos con intrincados detalles elaborados a […]
