*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

Women's Walking Dress || Women's Renaissance Doublet with Skirt Description: ITEM PICTURED IS FOR SAMPLE PURPOSES ONLY - NOT FOR RETAIL. This walking dress is a beautiful, comfortable addition to your renaissance wardrobe! Made from jacquard or brocade fabric, it is the perfect item to turn heads at the Renaissance Festival! This example of the walking coat features a slate blue cotton jacquard for the doublet, and lined with a lightweight natural colored linen. The doublet features lacing at the back for size adjustment, and a collar lined with interfacing. The front is closed with 4 sets of large hooks and eyes and 3 sets of decorative clasps, available in silver or bronze. The skirt is cut to just above the ankle at the front, while just below the ankle at the back, allowing a flowing skirt without risk of tripping or dragging through mud or leaves. This is truly a wonderful, easy to wear item made to last that will get you many a compliment! This coat is available in the 4 taffeta fabrics above for the doublet. Fabric is limited so order today! Pair this coat with your favorite white shirt, tank top, or camisole, leggings and tall boots for a great warrior princess look. Looking for something more authentic to wear underneath? Check out my linen shirts and chemises in the shop! *Jacket pictured above was made for a client measuring 5'6". Shirt and belt not included. **This item is made to order. When ordering, please message me before confirming the order with your bust size and waist size. If you are looking a longer or shorter skirt, include that in the message. Please allow 4-6 weeks for delivery. If you need it sooner, please contact me for availability. I ACCEPT INSTALLMENT PAYMENTS. Love this design but want to add your own twist to the look? Message me about a custom order today!

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** I was mid write-up on an upcoming post for an outfit inspired by the Dutch folk hero, Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer, when I realized this coif needed to be it's own post. (Please excuse the weird, super wide-angle lens of the iPhone's reverse view) Let me back up a bit... As part of my research into my Keanu inspired outfit I hit a stumbling block as to what sort of head covering to make. She is featured in multiple paintings, etching and pamphlets. While the pose and styling remains fairly consistent across most images, there is one significant point of difference: the coifs (caps? veils?). Broadly these fall into two categories: 1) Tails tied over the head... 2) Tails down... I believe both are representative of a Dutch style that really flummoxes me: the tailed veil. What exactly is going on here? Let's consider the second version with the loose tails (assuming the first is the same but with the ends tied over the head). This style of head-covering is fairly typical of mid to late 16th c. Dutch fashion. Pieter Jansz Pourbus, 1550s Although to looks like a close fitting coif, it's more probably a very intricately folded veil which evolved from earlier styles. Now, I'm going to say right out the gate that I have no idea how this was achieved. Zero. None. I've tried folding your standard rectangular veils and couldn't even get close. I'm not sure if I have the shape wrong or if the fabric just isn't fine enough (and probably both) but it's a non-starter. There's no way I can (currently) make a rectangular, tailed veil work. So instead let's take a detour further back in time (just for fun). The version with the ties above the head is not too dissimilar to the "tailed caps" of the mid 15th century. This style is fairly popular with reenactors and there are several suggested patterns for its construction. I'm not sure that I'm totally convinced by any of them, but I decided to try a couple and compare the results...just to see if they sparked any ideas. The first is basically a large trapezoid. (Which didn't quite fit on my cutting board, but the bottom edge is straight across). It's a single layer of fine 2.8oz linen. The on-grain edges are turned with a narrow folded hem. The bias edges have a rolled hem. The narrow side frames the face and the longer points are twisted and tied around the head. The front is also lightly starched (about 4-6" along the narrow edge). The result is fun, but the angle around the face doesn't quite match the period images (and in fact seems to fall in the opposite direction) But it's an attractive shape and can be worn in multiple different ways. Next is a long rectangle with a large 'V' cut out of one end. Again, the tails are twisted and tied on top of the head. The front section is also starched (a bit more heavily this time) as well as being folded down the middle. This helps create the heart shape that frames the face. It still doesn't quite mach the mid 15th c. silhouette above, but it is a closer match for the later 16th c. styles (and so more in the ballpark for what I'm ultimately aiming for). This can also be pinned to the under coif to create different silhouettes. And of course it can also we worn down as a long, split-tailed veil. While both patterns (and all the variants) are super fun to wear I'm still not 100% convinced by either version, if only for the inefficient use of fabric (and resulting wastage). So I'm back to square one. Really, I'm in a position where I'm fairly certain that anything I do will be wrong (historically) so now it's just a matter of picking something that works aesthetically and/or theatrically. So I start thinking about abandoning the veil and making a coif. Conveniently, this is also when I discover this image: Motivated reasoning aside, the image does seem to suggest gathers at the nape of the neck and the tails coming off the front brim (rather than from behind). It's not a total leap. There are early 17th c. coifs that feature long tails, though they don't particularly lend themselves to be twisted in this style. Still, perhaps it's not totally unreasonable to think there may be a hybrid style, especially when looking at the late 16th to early 17th c. images that seem to indicate gathers around the side of the face...which might suggest something other than a folded veil. (Hello again, motivated reasoning! I missed you! Come, pull up a chair. Stay a while...) So with that in mind I decided to adapt the late 16th/early 17th c. coif pattern I've made up previously. My plan was keep the most of the current shape, but then extend the front side sections into tapering tails. (NOTE: This pattern is given in centimeters, the previous patterns are in inches) The linen pattern is cut in light weight linen. Wherever possible a tread is pulled so that the all edges are cut exactly on the grain (basically everything except the tapered, diagonal edge) All edges are then finished with a narrow turned hem (except the diagonal egde, for which I found it easier to to do a rolled hem) Then back edges are whipstitched together (right sides facing) The the bottom. back edge is folded over and stitched down to create a lacing channel. Next, the "hole" formed by the cutout on the top of the head needs to be closed. The is done by running a series of tiny cartridge pleats along the longer edge and then whipstitching them to the narrow front edge. The coif is now complete! Now it's time to shape it... First, the front section is starched, folded down the middle and pressed to create a heart shape to frame the face. (The coif is pressed inside out, so that when flipped the top springs outwards from the central fold) Next, the tails are twisted to form tight "barbels" (as they are lovingly referred to on the Elizabethan Costuming FB Page). It's a tad difficult to see, but the brim is also folded back over itself (just where the ties wrap around the head) in order to encourage it to spring out and upwards. The cap can then be pinned to create subtly different shapes. Flat across the top: Heart shaped: Or even that baffling style where the tails form a ring. And....I think that's about it! Phew! For what was meant to brief side post, this ended up pretty packed. I should also note that all of the above styles are worn over a close fitting coif... ...but for the most part I didn't use my ear irons (or 'oorijzers'). (Oooh...look at her, she's a baby! Back when you still took photos with cameras.) Usually I use oorijzers to help stabilize my starched caps and veils, but found that most styles worked well enough just pinned to the under coif. I did however use ear irons for these two images. (While I found they did help anchor the coif they were not strictly necessary to achieve a similar look. Having said that, I will probably still opt for them when wear this style out of doors and need to account for the wind.) Final thoughts: After all that I still don't think I've gotten much closer to figuring out what's really behind these styles, but it was fun and informative to compare the various shapes and silhouettes. At the very least I've got a couple of good options for my Keanu outfit...which was, after all, the whole point. Hopefully I can get the full post up soon! (EDIT: And HERE it is!) *** Resources & Materials Pattern: -Veils: self drafted/draped -Coif: The Marquess of Winchester Coif #4 (with significant edits) Fabric: -White linen (2.8oz) from WM Booth Draper Trim and Notions: -Linen tape (1/4") for lacing from WM Booth Draper Thread: -White cotton thread (silk finish)

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

Pictured is an extraordinarily beautiful jacket that is made of high quality black Cleopatra chenille fabric with gold damask print and can either be fully lined in antique gold or black bridal satin, to compliment the overall appearance. Front lace closure with a set of antiqued grommets. Jacket also allows for additional fitting by use of the rear corset lacing. Jacket is floor length with split in the back. For an additional fee there is the optional detachable hood that is made with the same high quality Cleopatra chenille fabric with gold damask print and is fully lined. Lining can be done in antique gold bridal satin or black bridal satin. Hood attaches to jacket with flat corset lacing in black through a set of 4 grommets. If you order the jacket with a hood, please message me indicating black or gold satin for the hood lining. This jacket can be ordered with or without the optional detachable hood. Jacket can be ordered in US women's sizes: 6-22. Approximate finished measurements for each size are: (size 6 - waist 26", bust 34"); (size 8 - waist 27", bust 35"); (size 10 - waist 28", bust 36"); (size 12 - waist 29.5", bust 37"); (size 14 - waist 31", bust 39"); (size 16 - waist 33", bust 41"); (size 18 - waist 35", bust 43"); (size 20 - waist 37", bust 45"); (size 22 - waist 40", bust 47"). Please message me for more information or to place an order. Also available are 1700's pockets to match jacket, to be worn underneath for concealment of carried personal items (keys, phone, etc), for an additional fee. Listing is for jacket only - chemise, skirt, jewelry, and hat not included. Price is for jacket without hood, but can be ordered with detachable hood, prices vary according to which is ordered. Dry clean only. As a customer it is your responsibility to accurately measure and understand what you are buying. I cannot give refunds or accept returns so please measure carefully! Please consider purchasing the Upgrade - Optional Shipping Insurance for your item so you are covered if something is lost or damaged in transit. Sometimes accidents happen. Please see our policy page as to what damages are not covered.

This beautiful overcoat is made of beautiful high quality upholstery burgundy and gold regal pinstripe damask and is fully lined with antique gold bridal satin. Overcoat features puff upper sleeves and a contrasting corset lacing lower sleeve made of the coordinating beautiful gold regal pinstripe damask and trimmed in burgundy. This overcoat is made with a front corset lacing closure with a set of 6 hand set metal grommets and features an attached fully lined hood. Overcoat is floor length (pictured both with and without a hoop skirt worn underneath). Finished and ready to ship! Measurements: Waist – up to 34" (when laced fully closed); bust – up to 40” (when laced fully closed); length – 54” (from nape of neck to bottom rear hem); sleeve length – 24” (corset lacing section – 16”). Please check the measurements of the garment against your own measurements to ensure a proper fit. Please refer to our policy page for information on how to measure yourself. As a customer it is your responsibility to accurately measure and understand what you are buying. I cannot give refunds or accept returns so please measure carefully! Dry clean only. Listing is for overcoat only – all other items shown for display only (skirt and hoop skirt not included). Please consider purchasing the Upgrade - Optional Shipping Insurance for your item so you are covered if something is lost or damaged in transit. Sometimes accidents happen. Please see our policy page as to what damages are not covered.

Our huntress doublet is a rather versatile piece of clothing, simple and yet with its asymmetrical cut a real eye-catcher. It fits to many character concepts and garments from ranger to sorceress and can be individually adjusted to its wearer by its four decorative eight-shaped buckles. In addition, it is tied at the side by leather straps which ensures extreme flexibility. So you can also wear a Gambeson or a chain mail shirt easily underneath. Material: Made of suede Producer: Andracor

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***

*** As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...) Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge. This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off. I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen. And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well! So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump... First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark. Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for. The first look is the one featured in my dress diary... It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff. The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets. The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band. The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif. Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place. Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat. The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery) Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar. To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want. The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent. I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed. Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky... That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time. Finally, a neck band is attached. The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed. (I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me) I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less. I think this look is...okay. I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat. So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF! This is my largest ruff to date. It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets. Ruff mid-set Really, it's a beast. It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy). (One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread) I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results. Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. (But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?) Okay! Ditch the apron! How about a big hat? The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar. You know me! Love the crazy hats! But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up... Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project. I REALLY like this look. It might be my favourite so far. The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet). Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band. Right. Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further... The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff. This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen. And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat! (originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt) This last look is probably my favourite. I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look. This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close. Okay! That's it! In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it. Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make! ***