In this post, I'll show you how to clean and troubleshoot your new Singer Featherweight sewing machine to ensure that everything is in good working order.
Oiling your machine can seem intimidating for the mechanically-challenged, but like most things I'll cover here, it becomes quick and eas...
I've created the Pricing Guide for Vintage Sewing Machines that will help you answer the question, “Is this a good price to pay for a vintage sewing machine?”. This PDF download is full of information to help you determine what price you should pay when you find your perfect machine(s). While I
We have been asked for these rubber feet many times in the past. But today we have the ability to re-manufactured the rubber feet. They are direct replacement for Singer Featherweight 222k / 221k vintage sewing machines rubber feet. 5 Pack covers both the 222k and the 221k Featherweight models.
This is truly amazing what has been designed here. For Singer Featherweight sewing machine owners and lovers, here is a pattern and a tutorial that will show
The Singer "Featherweight" became a classic sewing machine due to its portable nature and sturdy simplicity. Learn more about these popular vintage sewing machines.
Creative Arts Blogger Michele Bilyeu shares her sewing, quilting, and crafting journey from Alaska to Oregon and back again.
This is truly amazing what has been designed here. For Singer Featherweight sewing machine owners and lovers, here is a pattern and a tutorial that will show
Produced from the mid to late 1960's in Kilbowie Scotland, this machine was something fresh and new to the Singer Featherweight market. The official Singer color was called
Long story short-- I am a big yard sale shopper....however lately I haven't been going....sad, I know.
Produced from the mid to late 1960's in Kilbowie Scotland, this machine was something fresh and new to the Singer Featherweight market. The official Singer color was called
Singer 221K Featherweight - GOLD SINGER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY These decals are a recreation of the original decals found on the Singer 221K Featherweight sewing machine. The decals are printed on clear backed waterslide decals for easy application to your machine. All orders come with easy application instructions. Find us on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/SewingMachinesandDecals PLEASE NOTE: All decals are created with the aim to get them as close to the original as possible, however it is important to note that we will not be responsible for any perceived differences between the original decals and the decals supplied, including colour variations and size differences.
For those who have been longing for a beautiful folding card table for a Singer Featherweight sewing machine your time has come.
Today, in part 4 of the Getting To Know Your Featherweight Series, you will learn how to thread a Singer Featherweight Sewing Machine from start to finish.Suggested Products:1) Crosswound Spool of thread: Aurifil or Presencia2) Thread Stand or Thread Post3) Schmetz Needles4) Thread Cutterz or Thread Snips5) Super Easy Machine Needle Threader6) Singer Featherweight Instruction Manual 221 or 222 To begin, you will need to turn the handwheel (which is technically called a “balance wheel”) towards you until the thread take-up lever is at its highest position. Turning the handwheel in the proper direction is something important to remember! You always, always, always want to turn the handwheel towards you and not away from you. Even if you are sewing in reverse, the handwheel will still be turned toward you – in the same direction and manner as in the video tutorial. If you ever turn the handwheel away from you it causes the thread to catch incorrectly around the bobbin assembly and can result in a thread jam…. But not to worry if that happens accidentally, because there is a video tutorial (from the Featherweight Schoolhouse page) to help with removing the jammed thread. Now you will need to determine what kind of thread spool you are using. Is it a stacked spool or a cross-wound spool? A stacked spool has thread that is wound round and round stacking the thread strands one on top of the other. A cross-wound spool has thread that wound on the spool in a crisscross pattern. If you are using a stacked spool of thread then place the spool on the spool pin. Your thread will go directly from the spool to the first upper thread guide... Like this: If using an Aurifil cross-wound spool then it helps to remove the bottom orange disk so the thread doesn’t get caught on the bottom and will unwind smoothly as it goes to the needle. With a cross-wound spool then it is highly recommended that you use a Thread Stand or Thread Post that is designed specifically for the Featherweight. There is has an excellent video tutorial on the Featherweight Schoolhouse on the importance of using a Thread Stand. Shop Thread Stand for Singer Featherweight 221 or 222 HereShop Thread Post for Vintage Singer Sewing Machines Here Cross-wound spools require the thread to be lifted off the spool, versus pulled from the side (which causes a wobble of the spool). Bring the thread strand first to the stand’s upper guide then back down through the hole at the base of the shaft, then directly over to the first upper thread guide on the machine. NEW, Updated Thread Path! Now your thread won't slip out of the Thread Stand guide whether you use it for a spool on the top of the machine or with a cone at the back! Simply thread the hole through the base of the shaft before going to the first thread guide on the machine. Like this.... When using larger cones - you simply adjust the placement of the Thread Stand to accommodate front to back, which allows the thread to flow easily off of the cone from the table as shown below. The remaining steps for threading the machine will be the same for all spool types. Place your right hand on the thread to hold it taut for the next couple of steps….. Using your left hand, grab the thread and bring it straight down and slip it between the tension disks. Make sure it’s between the disks and not in front or behind them. Bring the thread around and under the take-up spring, continuing on around. The take-up spring should raise up as the thread is brought all the way around and into the retaining fork on the tension unit. Then direct the thread behind the wire thread guide (directly above the tension unit). Next, go up and through the take-up lever from right to left. Bring the thread down and into the eyelet on the faceplate. Usually, you can catch the thread from the back of the eyelet. Continue threading to the next lower wire thread guide as well as the last needle clamp thread guide directly above the needle. Some Featherweights have this last guide situated in such a way that the thread enters from the right, but most Featherweights have the thread entering this last guide from the left. Remember from our last video how important it was to have the flat side of the needle facing left? Well, this last threading step is just as important, too, for proper stitch formation. The thread goes through the needle from the right to the left – or an easy way to remember is INSIDE OUT. From inside the machine to the outside. If the thread or needle is difficult to see then be sure to try our super easy machine needle threader in the shop. It takes away the hit & miss guesswork and easily threads the needle! The instruction manual says to draw about 2 inches of thread through the eye of the needle, but we recommend pulling several inches to have more to work with before you sew. Once you get used to threading your machine the proper way, you’ll zip through machine threading every time, no matter what kind of thread spool you use! Be sure to review video #1, 2 and 3 in this Getting To Know Your Featherweight series because our next tutorial will be all about how to pull the bobbin thread up to the surface and prepare for sewing! NEXT: Getting To Know Your Featherweight Part 5: Prepare for Sewing
From 1933 to 1969, this timeline provides a detailed history of the Singer Featherweight 221, 222 and all the details surrounding this Singer Sewing Machine. 1933:On October 3, 1933, Singer commissioned the first batch of 10,000 model 221 sewing machines, marketing them as the Singer Featherweight. Experimenting with the design and aesthetics of this new model, some of the distinctions varied, so do not be surprised if you find some subtle changes from machine to machine within this first batch. The first 200 machines (approximately) had these distinctions: Photo Courtesy of Rob Andre' Stevens 0.6 amp foot controllers different bobbin case positioning plate bracket (throat plate) bud decal on the bed of the machine The thread take-up lever had a straighter arm. The back arm decal was different in size and design. The front handwheel decal was incomplete. The upper handwheel decal had one additional loop on the end of the decal. The font lettering was thinner on the "The Singer Manufacturing Co." decal. After the first 1500 machines (approximately), the bed stop was removed. The bed stop prevented the bed from hitting the thumb screw on the faceplate. Serial number placement was moved from under the drip pan tray to the bottom exterior so that it could be seen on the bottom end closest to the bed extension without removing the bottom tray. However, the serial number block underneath remained in the mold until 1937. After the first 2000 machines (approximately) the drip pan color changed from silver to the common black. Also after the first 3000 machines (approximately) the arm decal behind the motor is eliminated. The case changed from Type I to Type II case. It still had the green interior of Type I, but it did not have the bracket to hold down the machine or the hanger for the foot controller.Type I: Type II: In late 1933 the hook assembly style changed. 1934: The Singer Featherweight makes its debut to the public at the Chicago World's Fair, featuring a specialty badge "Century of Progress Chicago 1934". Late 1934, the case changed from Type II to Type III, which has D-Ring Case Handle and a black interior. The latchesalso changed. 1935: Corduroy Case Lid Insert was introduced. It is now referred to as the Type I Case Lid Insert and is the most difficult to find of the two types. You can compare this one with Type II Case Lid Insert which came out in 1939.Photo Courtesy of Jane Lynch The needle guide at the bottom of the faceplate was changed from a loop to a slight bend with the thread entering in the opposite direction. June of 1935, the bobbin winder tension bracket changes from school bell style to a black, flat front mounting style. (This allowed them to use the same base mold.) 1936: Teeny tiny number references were added to the motor band. Specialty Badged machine "Texas Centennial Exposition 1836 - 1936" was issued to a select few Featherweight machines and sold at the Texas Centennial Exposition, a World's Fair commemorating Texas' independence from Mexico. In mid-1936, bobbin winder tension bracket was modified and mounted to the top of the base rather than the front side of the machine. The bobbin winder wheel was changed from being flat (unmarked) to "cupped". The base mold was modified from being split (aka: "split base") under the electrical terminal to being solid. This kept the terminal more secure and protected. Foot controller was changed from metal to bakelite (an early type of plastic) with slots on the top. In late 1936, foot controller was changed to a solid bakelite - the most common type found with old Singers today. 1937: In late-1937 the faceplate changed slightly in the scrollwork design. Along the thread guides, it went from being shiny chrome to having scroll work added to match the rest of the faceplate. The bed decal that wrapped around the light switch corner was changed to stop at the bobbin winder tension bracket. Original 1933 serial number block (inside, under the drip pan tray) was removed from the mold. Late 1937, numbered dial tension units were issued with all Featherweights and continued as standard. This took theguesswork out of tension adjustments. 1939: Specialty Badged machine "Golden Gate Exposition San Francisco 1939" was issued to a select few Featherweight machines and sold at the Exposition's first year, which commemorated San Francisco's two new bridges (Bay Bridge and Golden Gate Bridge). Around this era, there were some Featherweights that had the Singer decal on the top of the machine instead of on the light housing. It is not guaranteed that a particular number or set of machines were like this, but most AF38**** serial number Featherweights have the decal placed here, indicating that it was not simply a one-time accidental placement. Another Corduroy Case Lid insert was introduced. This one is referred to now as Type II. Compare this style with the earlier one from 1935. December 1939 - a very small handful of Featherweights were finished with a Wrinkle finish (aka Crinkle), which included the matching wrinkle faceplate. 1940: Specialty Badged machine "Golden Gate Exposition San Francisco 1940" was issued to a select few Featherweight machines and sold at the Exposition's second year, which commemorated San Francisco's two new bridges (Bay Bridge and Golden Gate Bridge). The "SINGER" decal on the light housing was positioned lower and more on the front, and the font remained the same for one batch before being changed to the bolder lettering. The Stitch length indicator, which had always been chrome plated, was now painted black with silver-colored numbers. The contrast made it a bit easier to read. August 1940 - a very small handful of Featherweights were finished with a Wrinkle finish (aka Crinkle), however, the Wrinkle Featherweights in this batch were most likely put into storage and not distributed until 1947, when they received the chromed, striated faceplate. 1941: By 1941, the chromed handwheel had been replaced with the solid black, japanned finish. July 1941, a handful of machines in this batch are distributed with blackened parts due to the moratorium on chromium for war efforts. The faceplate, presser bar lever, and stitch length indicator are the most notable parts that make the machines in this category distinctive, but even they can sometimes vary. These novelty machines are now known as "Blackside" Featherweights and are a bit elusive. Serial numbers are not consecutive so it is difficult to pinpoint the distribution of various blackened parts. Foot controllers were changed again from bakelite to metal. The cord came out of the controller from the left side, rather than the right like its earlier version from 1933-1936. 1942-1944: No Featherweights (as well as other family sewing machines) were produced during this time period due to the Limitation Order L-98, which was issued by the War Production Board. The Singer Manufacturing Company was one of many manufacturers ordered by the US Government to convert parts of their factories for war production materials. 1945 September 1945, a second batch of machines included a few "Blackside" Featherweights (like they did in 1941). Again, serial numbers are not consecutive, so it is difficult to pinpoint exact distribution of the various blackened parts. 1946 Mid-1946, Singer returned to issuing the solid bakelite foot controllers with all Featherweights. 1947 The modern, sleek-designed striated faceplate is introduced and the scrolled faceplate is no longer issued on the USA made Featherweights.*The scrolled faceplates continued until about 1951 on the Featherweights that were made in the UK. Type IV Case was issued, which had a C-shaped leather handle and was attached to the lid with pins rather than D-rings. An "M.R." decal, abbreviated for "Marcas Registrar" began appearing on a few machines. If a Featherweight has this extra decal it will be found under the front oval badge and under the decal on the back arm of the machine. M.R. is the Spanish equivalent to ® or TM in that it was given for exclusive rights to a product, name, slogan, etc. for Latin-American countries, but some machines with this decal never left the USA. Bobbin Winder was changed from the cupped version to the beveled style. August 1947, Featherweight production begins in the United Kingdom (Kilbowie, Scotland) at what was then Singer's largest factory. 1950 Specialty Badges "A Century of Sewing Service 1851-1951" were issued to a vast number of Featherweight machines (and other Singer models) to commemorate Singer Manufacturing Company's 100-year anniversary. Machines were given this specialty badge until 1952. The exact number of these badged Featherweights is not known but it could be 200,000 or more. 1951 Singer changed to a Type V case in the USA. The top tray design of the older cases was removed for a more compact compartment tray on the left side. The lid now held a bracket for the foot controller to slide in and out of easily. Light switch changed from the bed of the machine to the top of the lamp on 221K machines and continued with this style for the 222K as well. 1952 Graduated Throat Plate replaced the traditional plate which did not have any seam guide markings. The Featherweight badge changed from the centennial series to one with a black ring. 1953 July 1953, the Singer 222K Free-Arm Featherweight was introduced in the UK, Europe, Australia and some in Canada. This machine was not marketed in the USA. Production of the 222k continued until 1961. About midway through 1953 Singer added the small "221-" emblem below the main badge. Singer changed to a Type VI case for the USA made machines. The case handle was now secured to the lid in conjunction with the foot controller bracket. The clasp style also changed. 1954 The classic "Egyptian Scroll" or "Celtic" decals were replaced with what is now referred to as the "Paperclip" or "Prism" design. Bobbin winder was changed from the beveled to the solid stamped wheel. The manual style changed from the classic vertical green to the horizontal dark blue style but was only seen with some Featherweights. All others had the classic version. 1959 "Red S" Singer Logo was added to the badge, replacing the traditional vibrating shuttle logo. The "Red S Badge" continued through 1961. These are found on Featherweights made in the UK. 1961 Production ceased for black Singer Featherweights. 1961-1969 Two new colors of Featherweights were on the scene. Color #1 -- The Tan Featherweight was more like a black Featherweight with the longer bed extension and internal gear driven mechanism. This color Featherweight was manufactured mostly at the St. John's Factory in Quebec, Canada. Color #2 -- Officially called "Pale Turquoise" and often referred to as "celery green", but more commonly known now as a "White Featherweight". The case was mint green and ivory or light blue and navy. The White Featherweight had many cosmetic differences in addition to an internal belt drive. Save
Is your machine skipping stitches, or looping strangely after it was sewing just perfectly moments before? Most all stitch problems on a Singer Featherweight have to do with the way it is threaded. Unlike most modern machines and even a few older Singer models, the Featherweight 221 & 222K needle needs to face a certain direction, the thread gets inserted opposite of norm and the bobbin is counterclockwise. If I didn’t know any better I’d say everything is backward! Nevertheless, follow this tutorial and you’ll have perfect stitches in a matter of a few minutes. So, if your machine is already threaded, take it all out and let’s begin again……Suggested Products:1) Crosswound Spool of thread: Aurifil or Presencia2) Thread Stand or Thread Post3) Schmetz Needles4) Bobbins5) Thread Cutterz or Thread Snips6) Singer Featherweight Instruction Manual 221 or 222 ************************** How to Thread a Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K First, let’s start with the Bobbin and Bobbin Case: Hold the bobbin between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, with the thread on top drawing from right to left, as shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 1 With the left hand holding the bobbin case as shown in Fig. 1, the slot in the edge being at the top, place the bobbin into the bobbin case as shown in Figure 2. Figure 2 Figure 3 Then pull the thread into the slot as shown in Fig. 2, and back under the tension spring into the slot at the end of the tension spring as shown in Fig. 3. Figure 4 Turn the balance wheel over toward you until the thread take-up lever (6) is raised to its highest position. Place the spool of thread on the spool pin at the top of the machine; pass the thread through the thread guide (1) at the left, down, under and from the right to the left between the tension discs (2). Hold the spool tightly with the right hand and with the left hand pull the thread up under the thread take-up spring (4) until it enters the retaining fork (3), then pass the thread up and back of the wire thread guide (5) and from the right to the left through the hole (6) in the end of the thread take-up lever, down into the eyelet (7), at the side of the face plate, into the lower wire thread guide (8), into the guide (9) in the needle clamp, then from right to left through the eye of the needle (10). Draw about two inches of thread through the eye of the needle with which to commence sewing. To Replace the Bobbin Case After threading, take the bobbin case by the latch, holding it between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Fig. 5 Bobbin Case Threaded and Replaced Place the bobbin case on the center stud (A, Fig. 5) of the bobbin case base with the thread drawing from the top of the bobbin case. Release the latch and press the bobbin case back until the latch catches the groove near the end of the stud. Allow about three inches of thread to hang free from the bobbin case and turn down the bed extension. CAUTION — In case the throat plate is removed for cleaning the stitch-forming mechanism, etc., make certain, when replacing the throat plate, that the position finger (A2, Fig. 5) of the bobbin case base enters the notch (B2, Fig. 5) of the position plate attached to the underside of the throat plate. To Set the Needle Turn the balance wheel over toward you until the needle bar is at its highest position, and loosen the thumb screw (A Fig. 6) in the needle clamp. Figure 6. Positioning of Needle in Needle Clamp Have the flat side of the shank of the needle toward the left as shown above and put the needle up into the clamp as far as it will go. Then tighten the thumb screw. Threading the Machine Pull the thread from the spool and catch it on the thread guide then take it straight down into the tension unit being sure to catch it between the tension discs. Going clockwise, wind it around the tension unit until you get to the take-up spring. Resting the thread on your left index finger, pulling it taut, lift it up and over the spring wire to catch it on the retaining fork. Hook the thread around the back of the wire thread guide and go up to the hole of the thread take-up. Thread it from the right to the left. Pass the thread down through the eyelet on the side of the face plate into the lower wire thread guide and then into the guide in the needle clamp. See the following illustrations. When inserting a needle, make sure the needle’s flat side is facing the left. Thread the needle always from the right to the left on a Singer Featherweight 221, 222 and 301. After winding the bobbin, it will need to be placed in a position so that the thread is going counter-clockwise. Place it in the bobbin case this way. Hook the thread into the slot and back under the tension spring into the slot at the end of the tension spring. Be sure to leave enough thread hanging from the bobbin case so that the needle thread will catch it. Holding the thread in the left hand, turn the hand wheel towards you with your right hand – lowering the needle and thread, then raising it back up again. You should be able to somewhat feel it catch the bobbin thread below. Pull the thread with your left hand which will bring up the bobbin thread in a loop. Pull the bobbin thread out and let both threads go to the back of the presser foot as shown below. You are now ready to sew! Enjoy Sewing on your Singer Featherweight 221 or 222K!
The Featherweight is like many other vintage and collectible items; having all the original accessories makes the item more desirable and possibly even more valuable. The question then must be asked,
Give your Featherweight a
Last year in Paducah, KY at the AQS Quilt Show, I bought a pattern for this Featherweight Cover-Up and Thread Catcher from Chris Moline. What a great idea to protect our precious antique vintage sewing machines while in storage or travel, and at the same time, keep our sewing area neat with a pocket to catch snippets and threads. Note: This is not an advertisement, and I have no affiliation with Chris, but it is fun to share such great ideas! Isn’t this a great idea!?! The instructions provided in the pattern are minimal, but as my Grandma used to say “How hard can it be?” It looks easy enough, and a simple pattern. The only real challenge (to me) was a little clip – how to sew around that little clip had me stumped – so the pattern sat around for a quite a while, cut out, but unsewn. You know how sometimes when you can’t sleep, your mind wanders aimlessly? That’s when I realized, "Oh! Yes! I know how to do this!" I had some pre-quilted fabric and binding strips on hand; so if it didn’t work out, it would be an inexpensive trial run. At the clip, I stretched the edge way apart, pinned it well, and kept the needle down at the corners. For binding, one strip cut from selvage to selvage was plenty. Maybe I will make another Cover-Up someday. Next time, my Cover-Up will be appliqued with a flower and bird from my Baltimore Garden Quilt pattern! Fans of vintage Singer Featherweight sewing machines will want to know about this pattern, so I contacted Chris. (I don’t think she has a website.) Here is information directly from Chris: "This pattern is $2.75 plus $1.00 in postage. Orders for the pattern only can be placed by mailing a check made out to Chris Moline, 1168 Hyde Park Lane, Naperville, IL 60565. If they desire additional featherweight items, I would suggest they call 630-357-8055. For orders over $10 they can use VISA, MasterCard or Discover. I am running a bit low on the pattern after this year's quilt show season, but am planning to go out today and get more printed, as it has been very popular." - Thanks Chris! P.S. The light on the left of my sewing machine is a magnetic, battery operated barbeque grill light. Another great idea for sewing on the go! Keep Stitching! Barbara M. Burnham Author of Baltimore Garden Quilt (c) 2015 Barbara M. Burnham. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any kind is expressly prohibited without prior written authorization.
Tweet Thank you for coming to my Featherweight Skill Series! There are thousands of us who love our little 221s but need or want a little more "know-how" on using them to their fullest potential. I hope my posts and videos will help you get more know-how and confidence in using your beautiful Featherweight. Enjoy the classes! Class #7 - Adjustable Hemmer Class supply list: Your fully threaded sewing machine, the Adjustable Hemmer, two or three practice strips of fabric cut on the grain line: 5" X WOF (width of fabric) Let's get sewing! The first thing to say about this accessory is it is to be used for straight seams. Hemming around curves will not produce good results. If you're hemming curtains or items that require a long, straight hem, this is your go-to tool. Not every project calls for narrow hems! With this attachment, you can sew hems from 3/16" to whatever depth you need. The unit looks complex but the mystery is over when you understand what it does. The part of the unit on the upper edge turns your fabric edge under and the part on the lower edge with the numbers on it measures the amount of fabric that is folded over for the hem depth. Let's look at the back. You can easily find the needle hole at the top. Under it are two hooks that turn the fabric edge under to form the roll for stitching. The lower left curved edge is the measuring gauge. Here it is with fabric in loaded it. From the back: you can see how the fabric needs to be caught in the hooks to form the curl. And how it will look from the top: your fabric goes off to the left and the hem is being formed with the attachment. You are stitching on the back of your project. I think it's easiest to load the fabric into the hemmer before you attach it to the sewing machine. That way, you know the curl is forming. Bring the needle all the way up. Hold the fabric and hemmer in your right hand and screw it in place. The hem is being stitched on the back of the project. Your tension should be neat and even! The numbers on the gauge indicate 1/8" increments. My setting has the pointer at 4/8", which is 1/2". The guide will allow up to a scant 1" hem. Change the width by unscrewing the knob and sliding the gauge to the number width you want. Tighten the knob enough to hold it in place. The video shows my procedure for using it as a measured hemmer. What if you want a larger hem? Maybe one that's 2"... Notice the notch at the end of the gauge Unscrew the knob and slide towards the notch until the gauge can turn down and to the left. Don't force it. Carefully ease it around into this position. When you insert the fabric into the hooks, it will look like this underneath the unit- And from the top- the edge of the fabric is turned under while the unit sits on top of the hem. Nothing is going through the measurement guide. All you are using in this position are the hooks to form the curl. This way, your hem can be any size you want and anywhere you want it!! Mount the foot onto the machine first and ease the rolled edge into the hooks. With wide hemming, you would want to turn the width over and finger-press or pin it to help keep it in place while you stitch. This is not required, of course, but do whatever will help you get the best result! Practicing a lot helps too! This video demonstrates using the hemmer on wide hems. Here's another hem I made with the adjustable hemmer. The back- Notice how it stitches right along the edge? You have to watch and sew slowly to stay on the rolled edge! The front- After this is pressed, it will look even better! Homework: Take your fabric strips and hem a 5/8" hem and a 2" hem. Remember 1) this foot is used for straight, on-grain hems 2) load the fabric in the unit and then attach to machine 3) you are stitching on the inside, or on the back, of your project, and 4) sew slowly and watch that the stitches are catching the roll of the fabric. I hope you have been encouraged to use your Adjustable Hemmer. If you need one, let me know. I have some extras that I can sell. Please share your pics on our Facebook group page, Featherweight Skill Series, so we can see your creations! If you like the series, please share the link with your friends, pin it to Pinterest, join my Facebook group... Most importantly, "Let's get sewing!"
Our regular extension table measures 17.5x17.5in with a section to fit your sewing machine nicely. This extension table fits White and Black Singer Featherweight machines. Thickness is generally.5in to .75in due with the average being in the middle or thicker. Due to these being unique and made of wood that is why there may be a difference. We Make this out of Pine to create a sturdy, lightweight, unique but economical extension table. Each table comes with 4 adjustable legs and a handle for easy transportation. On each table we engrave a standard 12in ruler and for an additional cost we can engrave a custom text or image on the upper arm or middle section. We make the tables in 4 standard wood types. Pine which is our default but we have Alder, Maple and Walnut. If you would like a different wood type then please message us and we can make a custom order.
A few weeks ago I asked a group of sampler stitchers - "how do YOU define freehand embroidery within a counted sampler?" There were lots of replies and varying definitions but one thing that did come across was that many who normally work within the safety of a counted chart are a little apprehensive about venturing into "uncharted territory". Hands Across the Sea Samplers will shortly be releasing a chart of a beautiful and unusual Scottish sampler that has small freehand motifs. They do not need to be included as the sampler will stand well without them, they could even be cross stitched. However, we want to take the fear out of freehand and for you to be able to stitch these with confidence and enjoyment. I have designed a small chart and step-by-step photo trail tutorial for you. Whilst this motif has been made up it incorporates all the actual flowers that are freehand stitched in the Scottish sampler. The tutorial uses the stitches found in the orginal sampler. When I first started stitching a freehand design I was a little nervous of drawing a shape onto my linen. Tracing a design has issues with dimensions in relation to the linen count. Without a guide line it is easy for the embroidery to "grow" out of proportion. I prefer, where possible, to tack a loose outline with my needle, sketching out the shape in thread. The lines and placement of a motif are easily changed and refined without leaving the fabric marked. This is the method we have used for our reproduction and within the sampler's chart there are guide lines for the freehand motifs laid out in the same manner as above . There are close up photographs of each of the stitched freehand motifs within the chart. Using the graph above roughly tack out the stems and one flower head. There is no need to count this out exactly - this is freehand. Listen to your needle, she will guide you. The sampler's flower stems are made up of short satin stitches but stem stitch would work well if you prefer. We do not recommend sewing tightly packed stitches to start - they are hard to unpick if your shape is not right. Travel up the stem spacing the stitches out so that you are getting a feel for the shape. When you get to the top and you are happy with the shape, work your way back down filling in the stem with the desired coverage. Repeat for the next stem. I want my stems to curve and not bend in hard angles. To curve my outline I use a couching stitch to lift my loosely tacked line. See how the shape softens. Keep repeating the process. Until all the stems are stitched. Turn over your work. Your waste knot and some uncovered tack lines will be showing. Clip out the visible tack lines and remove the waste knot. There is no need to secure it. Be careful not to clip out the flower head ! Turn your work back over and stitch the stamens on the first flower. All you need are two or more straight satin stitches. Do not worry about counting out your stitches. Your flowers will be individual, think about the shapes you are hoping to achieve and experiment. For the third flower I tacked out the shape of the petals first. I then used the same process for the stems to stitch the flower. Make your stitches a little shorter than those on the stem. Each of the stamens are formed with a single thread with two passes. The tips on the orginal sampler are over one cross stitches. Stitch them slightly on the loose side. The next flower is made up of three steps. First stitch the vertical satin stitches. A single thread with two passes. Then add the three long horizontal satin stitches and finish with the short diagonal stitches to the outer edges. The final stem has a row of hanging flowers. Use a tacking stitch to decide on placement. Then embroider the flowers with satin stitches. The last step is to add the leaves. Leave the leaves until last so that they can be shaped to sit well with the flower heads. Hands Across the Sea Samplers hope that you will stitch this small motif and that it takes the fear out of freehand for you. If you have any questions we are here to help. We would enjoy seeing some photos of your stitched motif. The Scottish sampler will be released at the end of August and with its autumnal palette will be a perfect project for the Fall.
Singer sewing machines have existed since 1851. From the cast iron treadle-operated machines before the advent of electricity, to the iron “modern” machines of the 1950’s, many a seamstress has owned a Singer.
Featherweight history at your fingertips --Enjoy an entertaining look at the history of the Featherweight sewing machine --Expanded third edition updated with the latest research --Packed with photos, stories, and handy information --Learn to date and troubleshoot your machine --A fun read for quilters, Featherweight owners, and history buffs
Tractor Show, Lake Park, GA
Recently a comment was posted about, "well what about the 301 Singer Sewing Machines?" Here is a recent myth busted by Rob Stevens, over on my facebook page, about the Singer 301 machine. 301 Myth busted! The factory burned down, and when they started production again, the A was added. The original 301 was built in NJ, the 301A in Anderson, NC. September 7 at 11:20am · Edited · Like · 2 Rob Andre' Stevens Sorry Sir, that info above is wrong.. That 'fire' myth has been perpetuated for years. Time to set the record straight, here's the 'Real Story' of the added letter 'A'. Sorry for the length, but to tell a truth, the 'facts' are needed. As most know, Singer had one United States manufacturing factory, 'Elizabethport', located in Elizabeth, New Jersey. All sewing machines manufactured there never had a prefix after the model number. Singer had several manufacturing factories overseas, and up to the year 1900, also used no prefix. After the year 1900 all models manufactured overseas then included a prefix after the model number to denote the place of its manufacture. Examples would be our beloved 221K and 222K, manufactured in Kilbowie, Scotland. In 1950 Singer opened the Anderson, South Carolina plant to start manufacture of the all new slant model sewing machines, i.e. the 301 etc, but all the parts tooling was at Elizabethport, NJ, and the 'only' 301's ever made there, was a pilot run of 30 machines, just for testing and inspection, as it was an entirely new sewing machine, and later those 30 were then intentionally destroyed. When the Anderson factory started manufacturing the Singer 301, it did so using the 'NA' serial numbers allotted by NJ in May of 1951. In June 1951, Singer planned to release a "Limited Edition" of Singer 301's during the Centennial Year, and so the Elizabethport factory started producing the 301 parts, shipping them to the Anderson, SC factory for final assembly. In July 1951, the original Company register number log book for the Anderson factory shows that 10,000 serial numbers, i.e. NA000001 - NA010000, were allotted to be manufactured. They were the 'only' allotted Singer 301 serial numbers during the Centennial Year 1951, and only some were badged with 1851 - 1951 Centennial emblems, the rest had the newer black bordered badges. From July - Sept was when the "Limited Edition" of the "Singer 301" were being manufactured at the Anderson factory. Then from 16-30 Sept 1951, the 100th Anniversary of the patenting of the first Singer sewing machine was observed by Singer Manufacturing Company in New York with 9,400 Singer employees. The New Singer Model 301 was displayed at the exhibition of new and old Singer sewing machines, and prior to the general public knowing its existence. During that 2 week event, the new Singer 301 was awarded to many Singer employees. From Oct to Dec '51, the remaining 301's were then shipped to selected Service Center/Stores for sale, even though no advertizement or advance notice had yet been created. In Jan 1952, manufacturing began for the Singer Model 301, serial numbers NA010001-NA186000, allotted to be solely manufactured at the Anderson, SC factory throughout 1952, and in Oct of that year, the Grand Introduction of the 301 was introduced to the public, with all its fanfare and ads. As aforementioned, to avoid creating confusion as to where the 301 was actually being manufactured, Singer had decided, i.e. starting with serial numbers NA186001, to add the prefix "A" to denote it was manufactured at the 'Anderson', South Carolina plant, and so in Jan 1953, the 301 Model Tag became no more, and all slant models thereafter bore an "A", hence the Singer 301A, and later the 401A, 403A, 500A and the final 503A. Now for you 'Collectors' on here, the issuance of a very 'Limited Edition' of a machine is/was a very rare occurrence in the Singer Manufacturing Company's history, as they had never released any Singer Model sewer one year prior to it's introduction date, so it makes those first 10,000 Singer 301's rare birds indeed. One last notable item, on all 'Black' machines, there were two different gold decals used: The very early Singer 301 sewing machines had what they called a "Paperclips" gold decal with the center decal that looks like an "S". Singer 301's after serial # NA130000, and all black 301A's had what they called a "Prism" gold decal with the center decal that looks like an "8". So there you have it, and I'll always give credit where credit is due, as a lot of this info came from 'Singer301.com' ..And so M'Ladys and Gents, adieu.. and to all have a great new week. Facebook group located at: https://www.facebook.com/groups/157457531160/ Ask to join! Here is what I could find: On Pattern Review - several reviews of the Singer 301 machine. http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingMachine/Singer Singer301.com 301 Vintage Sewing Machine Review http://blog.sew-classic.com/2009/03/14/classic-singer-301-301a-vintage-sewing-machine-review.aspx April 1930's 301 Machines http://www.april1930s.com/html/singer_301___301a_machines.html Glenn's Joy of 301 Singer Sewing Machines http://pages.suddenlink.net/joyof301s/glenn.htm http://pages.suddenlink.net/joyof301s/301faqs.htm Grandmother's Sewing Machines 301 http://www.grandmotherssewingmachine.com/singer_301.html Sleepy Cat's Newest Sewing Machine - the 301! http://sleepycathollow.wordpress.com/2009/10/16/1951-singer-301-my-newest-sewing-machine/ A manual for the 301 http://static.onecreativeblog.com/files/singer-301-manual.pdf ISMACS info on the 301 http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/singer-class-301-sewing-machines.html Collecting 301's http://possumjimandelizabeth.com/xhtml/collect_sewing_sing301.html Flicker of 301s http://www.flickr.com/photos/16989706@N00/124804972/ Best Sewing Machine Review of the 301 http://bestsewingmachine.net/sewing-machine-reviews/singer-301 An Ebay Guide and Review of the 301 Singer Sewing Machine http://reviews.ebay.com/Singer-301-Sew-Your-Next-Quilt-on-This-Vintage-Machine_W0QQugidZ10000000002642554 The Black 301 Singer Sewing Machine http://black301.com/ Treadle Quilt's 301 in a different cabinet! http://treadlequilts.blogspot.com/2009/10/my-singer-301-in-queen-anne-cabinet.html Newest edition from what the craft - the 301! http://whatthecraft.com/the-newest-edition-to-my-sewing-family-singer-301/ Susan's Cloches tension and 301 Singer Sewing Machine Thoughts. http://susanscloches.blogspot.com/2010/05/301-youre-moving.htmlhttp://susanscloches.blogspot.com/2010/05/301-youre-moving.html http://susanscloches.blogspot.com/2010/06/tension-and-301.html http://susanscloches.blogspot.com/search/label/Singer%20301 Tomrit 301 Singer! http://tomrit.com/sewing/?p=13 A wordpress blog on the 301 Singer http://singer301.wordpress.com/ Leah's Garden 301 http://leahsgarden.blogspot.com/2009/09/defeat-longer-story.html Penny Quilt Journal on the wonderful 301 machine. http://pennyquiltsjournal.blogspot.com/2009/07/wonderful-old-singer-sewing-machines.html Martha Sews - back story with the 301 machine http://marshasews.blogspot.com/2009/01/my-sewing-back-story.html?showComment=1236948780000 Sew Mama Sew 301 stuff! http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/?p=837 and soon some 301 Singer information from my family! Woo! So enjoy these links! Any more? Please let me know! Table dates provided by Rob Stevens from the facebook group, Gaileee's Singer Featherweights 221 and 222s.
When someone mentions a home sewing machine, most people immediately think of Singer. Indeed, many Americans saw their grandmothers use this machine type when they were children. Even though the first Singer sewing machine appeared ... Read more
Fits the Featherweight! Stitch your 1/4-inch seams easily with the foot that has a little guide to keep your fabric edges perfectly aligned, or scrolling through the photos above, you can see how it can be nicely used for understitching, depending on how you align it to your seam. Foot will either have a chrome or black guide depending on inventory available at time of order. LOW SHANK: fits the Singer Featherweight 221, 222K and all low, vertical shank Sewing Machines (i.e. 15, 27, 28, 66, 99, 185, 127, 128, 192, 201, 206, 237, 306, 319, 320, 328, as well as many other brands besides Singer) The video tutorial will show and compare all the different 1/4" feet that we carry.
This is truly amazing what has been designed here. For Singer Featherweight sewing machine owners and lovers, here is a pattern and a tutorial that will show
In this post, I'll show you how to clean and troubleshoot your new Singer Featherweight sewing machine to ensure that everything is in good working order.
MACHINE SEWING Book by the Singer Manufacturing Company - a Teacher’s Textbook subtitled "A TREATISE ON THE CARE AND USE OF FAMILY SEWING MACHINES AND THEIR ATTACHMENTS"These are original complete books that may have some wear indicated in the photos. You will receive the exact book shown in the photo(s) matching the variant you select when adding to cart. Published primarily for Teacher’s of Home Economics, these are few and far between and becoming harder and harder to find (especially this 1938 version) as more and more Featherweight collectors see the value in owning such a quality book with a wealth of information. The 1938 version is one of the most collectible Machine Sewing books as it is harder to find than the 1948-50 version, but it still has the Featherweight shown in it. Copyright 1938, and while certainly not specific to the Singer Featherweight 221 or Singer 301A, it is one of the Teacher's Textbook publications that includes information about the portable machines (see photos). Primarily, this is one of the most excellent resources for Singer Attachment collectors as it references many, many Singer Sewing Machine Attachments - including several of the really scarce attachments! Nevertheless, it is still one of the most sought-after book for Featherweight owners' collection. Why? Because this edition was published after the Singer 221 Featherweights were in production, therefore, illustrations are given which reference the actual Featherweight 221 and Case. This book provides instructions and information for attachments with tips and ideas. Machine Know-How, Troubleshooting, Stitch Formation, Vibrating or Long Shuttle, Oscillating Hook, Oscillating Shuttle, Rotary Hook, Single Thread Elastic Chain Stitch. Testing a Needle for Straightness Tension Correctness How to Shorten & Replace a Treadle Belt The Principle Parts of Lock-Stitch Sewing Machines and Their Uses Formation of a Lock Stitch Stitch Formation Diagrams for the Vibrating Shuttle Attachments: Chapter on the Binder & Bias Tape Chapter on the Foot Hemmer & Adjustable Hemmer (giving names to each part of the attachment) Chapter on the Tucker Chapter on the Ruffler Chapters on Fashion-Aid Attachments:Shirring Plate, Gathering Foot, Quilter, Edge-Stitcher, Buttonholes; Binder Attachment, Narrow Hemmer, Adjustable Hemmer, Ruffler, Flange Hemmer, Cording Foot, Blind Stitch Braider, Braiding Presser Foot, Tubular Trimmer, Single Thread Embroidery Attachment #26538, Two-Thread Embroidery Attachment #35505, Gauge Presser Foot with Adjustable Guides, ZigZag Attachment #160620, Hemstitcher, Singercraft Guide, Fagoter, Hand Crank Pinker, Gripper (Sewing Bird), Embroidery or Darning Attachment 160719, Flatwork Darner, Stocking Darner