Hello! I posted a lot of Christmassy things lately. Time for something else! In this post, I’ll explain how I give my dolls hair. This method seems a bit complicated at the beginning but trust me i…
Hello! I posted a lot of Christmassy things lately. Time for something else! In this post, I’ll explain how I give my dolls hair. This method seems a bit complicated at the beginning but trust me i…
Hello! I posted a lot of Christmassy things lately. Time for something else! In this post, I’ll explain how I give my dolls hair. This method seems a bit complicated at the beginning but trust me i…
Hello! I posted a lot of Christmassy things lately. Time for something else! In this post, I’ll explain how I give my dolls hair. This method seems a bit complicated at the beginning but trust me i…
Hello! I posted a lot of Christmassy things lately. Time for something else! In this post, I’ll explain how I give my dolls hair. This method seems a bit complicated at the beginning but trust me i…
Hello! I posted a lot of Christmassy things lately. Time for something else! In this post, I’ll explain how I give my dolls hair. This method seems a bit complicated at the beginning but trust me i…
I picked up this Pinkie Pie from the thrift shop for $.99 - and over John's protests: "Where are you going to put that?" "Your room, if you ask nicely." (This from the guy with the Fluttershy shrine in his man cave. I mean, REALLY.) Despite being covered in stickers & having a matted frizzball for hair, Pinkie was in perfect shape. Besides, I remembered seeing some tips on Pinterest for de-frizzing doll hair, and I wanted to give it a shot. About five hours later... BEHOLD: I used a different method on the tail versus the mane, and you can see the tail is a little more messy and natural looking, while the mane has those perfect Shirley Temple ringlets. I like the mane best, but really, both ways work! So for the tail, I rolled sections of hair over a section of a drinking straw, bent the straw in half, and secured the two ends with a small rubber band: Next I dunked the hair in almost-boiling water for a good minute or so: I let the hair cool, squeezed off the excess water, and had this: Not bad! For comparison, this is what I started with: I tried the same method for the mane, but I made my sections of hair way too big, so the resulting curls were... less than impressive: Meh. So next I tried wrapping much smaller sections of hair around a thin wooden dowel and flat-ironing, like so: Bingo! Worked like a charm. Of course you have to watch your heat level, since the hair IS plastic, but I had to crank my adjustable heat iron up halfway before the curl would hold, and even then I had to hold it on the hair for several long seconds. (Don't worry; there were no fumes or funny smells.) Really the only hard part was separating out the hair to begin with, since the doll hair was incredibly rough and snaggy, and individual strands tend to stretch out instead of break. It gave me something to do while John and I watched TV, though, so I didn't mind. Oh, and I used a small comb, but mostly just the very tip of it to separate the worst of the tangles. (There's a doll hair detangling spray you can make by mixing a little liquid fabric softener in water, but I didn't have any softener on hand. It looks really helpful, though, so next time!) Since it's hard to iron the very ends of the ringlets without burning yourself, you can trim off any frizzy tips when you're done. I didn't bother, so you can see the bottom of my curls are a little rough. Adds character, though, right? You can also just flat iron the hair straight if you don't want curls, but I'd recommend still working in small sections to keep it smooth. And that's it! So, now to find a matching Fluttershy... Any questions or tips? Share 'em in the comments! ***** Come see ALL of my craft projects on one page, right here!
Fixing messy doll hair and removing surface dirt from your doll is easy and works on almost any doll, old or new. All you need is some plain lotion, shampoo, and conditioner.
Click through to find out how to add and arrange doll hair from yarn. I'll be using my Eve Gonk to make an UP-hairstyle: bun, ponytail and more!
I picked up this Pinkie Pie from the thrift shop for $.99 - and over John's protests: "Where are you going to put that?" "Your room, if you ask nicely." (This from the guy with the Fluttershy shrine in his man cave. I mean, REALLY.) Despite being covered in stickers & having a matted frizzball for hair, Pinkie was in perfect shape. Besides, I remembered seeing some tips on Pinterest for de-frizzing doll hair, and I wanted to give it a shot. About five hours later... BEHOLD: I used a different method on the tail versus the mane, and you can see the tail is a little more messy and natural looking, while the mane has those perfect Shirley Temple ringlets. I like the mane best, but really, both ways work! So for the tail, I rolled sections of hair over a section of a drinking straw, bent the straw in half, and secured the two ends with a small rubber band: Next I dunked the hair in almost-boiling water for a good minute or so: I let the hair cool, squeezed off the excess water, and had this: Not bad! For comparison, this is what I started with: I tried the same method for the mane, but I made my sections of hair way too big, so the resulting curls were... less than impressive: Meh. So next I tried wrapping much smaller sections of hair around a thin wooden dowel and flat-ironing, like so: Bingo! Worked like a charm. Of course you have to watch your heat level, since the hair IS plastic, but I had to crank my adjustable heat iron up halfway before the curl would hold, and even then I had to hold it on the hair for several long seconds. (Don't worry; there were no fumes or funny smells.) Really the only hard part was separating out the hair to begin with, since the doll hair was incredibly rough and snaggy, and individual strands tend to stretch out instead of break. It gave me something to do while John and I watched TV, though, so I didn't mind. Oh, and I used a small comb, but mostly just the very tip of it to separate the worst of the tangles. (There's a doll hair detangling spray you can make by mixing a little liquid fabric softener in water, but I didn't have any softener on hand. It looks really helpful, though, so next time!) Since it's hard to iron the very ends of the ringlets without burning yourself, you can trim off any frizzy tips when you're done. I didn't bother, so you can see the bottom of my curls are a little rough. Adds character, though, right? You can also just flat iron the hair straight if you don't want curls, but I'd recommend still working in small sections to keep it smooth. And that's it! So, now to find a matching Fluttershy... Any questions or tips? Share 'em in the comments! ***** Come see ALL of my craft projects on one page, right here!
Meet new dolls from the Moose Toys - the creators of the Kindi Kids, Shopkins, Oh My Gif, pikmi Poms, Gogo Galaxy and many other.These will be their first Fashion dolls and they are called Fail FixDolls are released and available now!The main concept of the Fail Fix dolls is that you have to
I have a very large collection of AG dolls and the majority of them came to me secondhand. Over the years I have learned how to repair almost every issue I have encountered. Today let’s focus on loose limbs. American Girl doll vinyl limbs are attached to the body with an elastic cord from inside the limbs going into the body. After years of play the elastic can stretch out causing the legs to hang out of the sockets. Storing or displaying dolls in a sitting position can lead to loose limbs quickly. All of my dolls stand when on display and lay down if they are being stored. I picked up this 1998 Molly locally for $25. She was in great overall condition, but all of her limbs were swinging from their sockets so she could no longer stand or hold anything. Here is a step-by-step tutorial on how to re-string a doll. To begin you will need tweezers, needle nosed pliers, crimp sleeve connectors (I use this size), bungee cord (found at Hobby Lobby) and scissors. I also used a dowel rod or wooden spoon (not pictured) later on. Using tweezers, I loosened the neck strings and removed her head. Next I removed all fluff and set it aside. [gallery type=square size=medium ids=1611,1612,1613] Using scissors, I cut the existing elastic cords. I removed all the pieces from inside the cloth body. There will be four tension cups in the body and one in each limb for a total of eight. It will require the pliers (and some patience 😉) to remove the tension cups from the limbs. Sometimes they come out easily and sometimes they don’t, it just depends on the doll. In my experience newer dolls are much harder than older ones and require more strength to get them out. [gallery type=square columns=2 size=medium ids=1614,1615,1616,1617] Cut off four pieces of the bungee cord, making each piece about 3 1/2 inches. Here’s the part where you need 3 hands! 😂 Using the pliers, crimp one of the sleeves near the end of the cord while pulling it on both ends. You want the cord to be stretched slightly when the crimp sleeve clamps down on it. Place a tension cup onto the cord. [gallery size=medium type=square ids=1618,1619,1620] Push the cord with crimped sleeve and tension cup into the limb. Thread the cord sticking out into the socket on the body and pull it up into the body. [gallery type=square size=medium ids=1621,1622,1623] String a tension cup onto the cord and then a crimp sleeve. Pull on the cord while squeezing the pliers on the crimp sleeve. ALWAYS create tension on the cords when clamping down the crimp sleeves, this will keep the limbs tight when the doll is finished. [gallery type=square columns=2 size=medium ids=1624,1625,1626,1627] Repeat the steps until all limbs are re-attached. Refill the body with the fiber fill fluff. I use a dowel rod to manipulate the fluff in the body. Sometimes the fiber fill can make the body appear lumpy if it’s not evenly distributed, so the dowel rod can be helpful. You could use the handle of a wooden spoon also. Once the body is filled, re-attach the head. [gallery type=square size=medium ids=1628,1629,1630] Now your doll is tight and can stand on her own again! Yay Molly! 😊 If your doll needs a makeover visit A Doll Cleaning Tutorial or Restoring Doll Hair Tutorial.
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As a child I used to love my Guatemalan worry dolls, I still do. My mom told me to whisper my worries to the dolls and they would fix them ...
How To Fix Frizzy Doll Hair. Perfect For Ponies. Thanks for having a look. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Thank you for following me. Followers are always appreciated. My friend limit is maxed out. But still keep sending the request and I'll follow you. Have a happy and healthy day. 😄
New Patterns from valspierssews
One Way to Fix a Journey Girls Arm A while back I showed you how to fix Dana's arm. Some people noted that their doll's shoulder joint did not look the same as Dana's did. I found out the the newer Journey Girls have two types of shoulder joints. Most still have the joint like Dana, but some of the dolls (Meredith, Mikaela, and Kyla) have different joints. This tutorial is on how to fix/replace this new type of joint. Before we start, let me tell you that this is not the easiest replacement to do. If any of you have an American Girl doll and have replaced her strings, Journey Girls joints are not as simple as that. It takes some commitment to do this fix; probably about 2 hrs at least. Also the vinyl chest piece is solid on the bottom, so opening the cloth back will not help with the shoulder joint. Here are the tools you will need: Needle nosed pliers (curved is better) Wire cutter Scissors Small flat head screwdriver X-acto knife or hobby knife Embossing tool or hair dryer Drill with a 5/32 size bit 100 grit sandpaper Ruler Supplies you will need for 2 joints: Bungee cord (found online or at some camping stores) Four 5/16 brass compression inserts (found at hardware stores - usually in the plumbing department) Four 1 inch leg tips The shoulder joint of the Journey Girls is made up of two parts. A flat coin shaped piece with a rod protruding from the center of it sits in the body. This connects to a sphere with a hole in the middle, that resides in the arm of the doll. Most of the time the broken arm occurs because the rod breaks off of the coin shaped base, leaving you with a flat hard plastic piece in the body and the sphere with a rod attached to it in the arm. If you're lucky you may be able to grab the rod and pull the sphere out of the arm without heating the vinyl. In my experience this doesn't happen, but if you wiggle the arm enough it technically should be able to happen. What I have experienced is that without the heat the rod will shear off and then it is more difficult to get the sphere out of the arm. So I would suggest heating the vinyl arm to make it more pliable. With the needle nosed pliers grab the rod and wiggle it back and forth will pulling out from the arm. If you rotate the sphere so that the side shows, the sphere will start to pop out. Once the sphere is sideways so that you can see the ridge, warm the vinyl again (if it is not still warm), grab the ridge, rotate and pull. You can also stick the screwdriver in the end of the sphere that does not have the broken rod in it (if there is room). Pull the screwdriver towards you, do not use a levering motion. If you use a levering motion it will push on the vinyl and could ruin the arm. So be careful. You can also squeeze the arm at the shoulder, this will help push the sphere out also. If you can get the sphere out of the arm without damaging it, you will be able to reuse it. If it gets too damaged, don't worry, I'll show you how to replace it. Once the sphere is out of the dolls arm, you need to get the flat coin piece out of the body. I had to heat the vinyl a little with the embossing tool to get this out. There is glue on the coin. As you heat the joint it should release the glue. Drill through the coin so that there is something to hold onto. After heating the vinyl on the body use the drill bit or needle nose pliers to pull the coin out. Wiggle and pull. As you pull there may be places where the glue is stuck to the coin. You can heat the vinyl on the body a little to loosen it or cut it off with the X-acto knife. Just make sure to only cut in the circle, not on the curved part. Whether you use the sphere or if you use the leg tips (more on that in a moment) you will have to cut the vinyl out in the armhole of the body. Use the X-acto knife to make a hole by following the larger circle's outline as a guide.. Use an up and down sawing motion to cut the vinyl. Do not cut any of the curved part of the arm hole out. If you are using the sphere Remove the rod from the sphere. You have to break off the tip of the rod, then push it out of the sphere from the side that you just broke off. Put the sphere to the side. You have to make a replacement part for the coin using the leg ends. From the rounded base measure up 3/16 or 1/4 of an inch and make a mark. Using the X-acto knife, carefully, make a cut (about the size of the knife blade) on the mark parallel to the rounded edge (you are going to be shortening the tip so that it becomes like a small bowl or cup). I then made a cut perpendicular to the line up towards the open top of the leg tip. This made it possible for me to use my scissors and cut all the way around the tip so that the cup was 3/16 of an inch high. I took the cup and sanded the cut edge with 100 grit sandpaper so that the edge was smooth. It doesn't have to be perfect, just not jagged. Drill a hole in the middle of the tip with the 5/32 drill bit. The easiest way to do this is to flip it so the round or spherical part of the tip is down. Find the middle and drill through it. If you are fixing one arm, you will need two of these cups. Next cut a piece of the bungee cord about 6 inches long. Tie a knot at one end as close to the end of the bungee as you can make it. Slide the brass sleeve onto the bungee cord with the fluted end (the larger end) of the sleeve facing towards the knot. Use the pliers or the wire cutter to crimp the brass sleeve. The sleeve needs to be compressed enough that it will not slide on the bungee. Once you have the sleeve crimped on the bungee slide the sphere onto the bungee cord so that the square end is facing away from the knot and the brass sleeve is through the sphere. Add the leg end to the bungee cord with the cut off end of the leg towards the sphere. Then add the brass sleeve with the flanged end towards the leg end. Here's where it starts to get tuff. Pull the non-knotted end of the bungee cord as tight as you can, while pushing the sleeve down towards the sphere, then crimp the sleeve. Make sure to really crimp the sleeve so that it does not move on the bungee. Make a knot in the bungee as close as possible to the brass sleeve. Then cut the excess bungee off. This is your new fixed joint. Now it's time to get it back into the doll. I found it was easiest to put the sphere into the arm first, and then put the leg end in the body. To do this, heat the hole in the arm until the vinyl is flexible. Once the vinyl is squishy push the sphere straight down into the arm. Wiggling it or twisting it helps it get into the arm hole easier. The sphere can get stuck a little as it hits the little ridge of plastic halfway up the sphere. To get the sphere all the way in, push one edge of the sphere in first, working your way around the sphere. Once the middle edge is in the arm, the sphere slides in easily. Next warm the vinyl on the body around the arm hole. Stretch the bungee far enough that you can get the tip of the screwdriver in the end not in the arm. Push the leg tip into the hole in the body, wiggling it or turning it sideways to get it in all the way in. It should pull flat onto the inside of the body once it is in all the way. If everything is done right the arm should move well, but stay positioned when placed up or down. If you can't use the sphere I broke my sphere, because I wasn't careful, so I had to make a new joint. The best thing I came up with were plastic leg tips. I used 7/8 inch tips, but I actually think that the 1 inch tips will work better. From the rounded base measure up 3/16 or 1/4 of an inch and make a mark. Using the X-acto knife, carefully, make a cut (about the size of the knife blade) on the mark parallel to the rounded edge (you are going to be shortening the tip so that it becomes like a small bowl or cup). I then made a cut perpendicular to the line up towards the open top of the leg tip. This made it possible for me to use my scissors and cut all the way around the tip so that the cup was 3/16 of an inch high. I took the cup and sanded the cut edge with 100 grit sandpaper so that the edge was smooth. It doesn't have to be perfect, just not jagged. Drill a hole in the middle of the tip with the 5/32 drill bit. The easiest way to do this is to flip it so the round or spherical part of the tip is down. Find the middle and drill through it. If you are fixing one arm, you will need two of these cups. The photo shows four, because I replaced both arms on Meredith. Next, cut a brass insert in half with the wire cutter. This flattened the end of the insert when I did it, so I had to use the needle nosed pliers to make the sleeve round again. You will need two sleeves for one arm replacement, but only one of them needs to be shortened. Next cut a piece of the bungee cord about 6 inches long. Tie a knot at one end as close to the end of the bungee as you can make it. Slide the longer sleeve onto the bungee cord with the fluted end (the larger end) of the sleeve facing away from the knot. Use the pliers or the wire cutter to crimp the brass sleeve. The sleeve needs to be compressed enough that it will not slide on the bungee. Once you have the sleeve crimped on the bungee, slide one of the tips onto the bungee so that the rounded edge is against the fluted side of the brass sleeve. Next, slide the other tip onto the bungee cord the opposite way that the first one was slide on. It should form kind of a sphere with the two tips. Slide the shortened sleeve onto the bungee with the fluted side towards the rounded edge of the second tip. Here's where it starts to get tuff. Pull the non-knotted end of the bungee cord as tight as you can, while pushing the sleeve down towards the tip. Make the bungee cord as tight as possible and push the sleeve and tip down as close as you can to the other tip, then crimp the sleeve. Make sure to really crimp the sleeve so that it does not move on the bungee. If you pull the tips apart there should be no more than a half inch between them. This is your new joint. Now let's put it back in your doll. I found it was easiest to put the tip into the arm first, and then put the other one in the body. To do this, heat the arm hole until the vinyl is flexible. Pull the tips apart a little, then using the screwdriver, push the tip with the short sleeve into the arm. Wiggle the screwdriver to get the tip in the hole. It may be easier to angle the tip so one edge is in the hole. Get that edge pushed in as far as you can, then push the tip in until the whole thing is in the arm. Using the bungee you can pull it back so that it is flat against the arm hole. It's hard to see in the photos, but the tip should fit right into the arm hole and create kind of a cup, pressing against the curved edge of the arm. Warm the vinyl on the body around the arm hole. Stretch the bungee far enough that you can get the tip of the screwdriver in the end not in the arm. Again push the tip into the hole in the body, wiggling it or turning it sideways to get it in all the way. It should pull flat onto the inside of the body. If everything is done right the arm should move well, but stay positioned when placed that way. I have done this replacement twice now. Once on Meredith (both arms) and once on Mikaela (one arm). In both cases the arms moved better than before, with no hitch in them. They were also able to go out to the side more. If the arms don't stay up on their own, then the bungee cord is not tight enough...so make sure that bungee cord is tight! This design is based off of the joint in an American Girl doll. If you are having trouble following my directions you should be able to look up "American Girl Doll restringing" on YouTube and find some videos about how to kind of do this. I am hoping to post a video at some point, but my video skills are not very good...so for right now a post will have to do. I will be posting instructions on how to fix leg joints with in a week or so. If you have any questions please feel free to e-mail me: [email protected] I hope this helps one of you Journey Girls fans.
Things I've learned about caring for and restoring American Girl dolls. Basic Hair Care Always use a brush from American Girl OR go to your local beauty supply and get a "wig brush". Your doll's hair is the same high quality synthetic hair used for human wigs. It needs to be brushed with a wire bristle brush. A regular vinyl hairbrush will roughen the texture of the dolls hair and create frizziness. Also, don't use the wire doll brush on human hair and then on the dolls hair. The oils from human hair damage the texture of the doll's hair as well. $5 wig brush from beauty supply $8 brush from American Girl The VERY BEST shampoo for AG doll hair I am VERY happy with the results I got using wig shampoo and conditioner. I got it at the beauty supply store for around $8.00 for each bottle. I purchased both the shampoo & conditioner. The conditioner is a leave-in spray bottle. I expect these 2 bottles to last a long time since I used very little for each doll. I used both on 3 different dolls. Our Molly, our Madame Alexander 18" doll & my 1975 Madame Alexander baby doll. All 3 dolls hair came out super soft and smelling lovely! I highly recommend this for doll hair. It is made especially for synthetic hair and does a great job. Molly who is from 1986 had very dry and damaged hair and the leave-in conditioner added shine. The 2 Madame Alexander dolls both came out soft and shiny. On the left is our Molly and on the right is our Madame Alexander 18" doll. The best treatment for dry damaged hair - a Hot Water dunk Hot Water Dunk I decided to do a dunk on my Kirsten who is 20+ years old. Her hair was very dry and brittle. Basically you heat water to boiling, then pour water into a bowl and let it cool for 5 minutes. Then dunk the dolls hair avoiding the wig area on the head. You can do more than one dunk if needed. Dunk avoiding wig area. Before and After Doing a Downy Dunk A Downy dunk can be a great low cost treatment if you don't want to buy wig shampoo & conditioner, which I recommend. The down side is it can sometimes leave a film on the hair if not rinsed sufficiently. Cleaning your doll's skin I really like using a paste of water and baking soda. With a soft cloth dampened in the baking soda paste, gently clean the doll's vinyl skin. I have also heard that magic erasers are very good for cleaning the doll's skin. Cleaning the doll's cloth body I would try to do surface cleaning with a mild soap solution, but be VERY CAREFUL not to get the body too wet. If the doll needs more than a surface cleaning the dolls head can be removed and all the stuffing removed and the body washed, but I would, personally, try and avoid this. If you feel your doll needs this deeper cleaning do some research and be REALLY sure you want to take your doll apart! Don't get your doll's eyes wet!! If you get the doll's eyes wet they turn silver like the picture below: SO, be careful! I got another great tip from a reader! Myrtleedop said... Water is not good for doll eyes, but the silver eye is not caused by water but is instead a factory defect. One that the American girls people will fix for free since it is a flaw from their supplier. You do have to send the doll to them and pay for shipping though. See the American Girls site for their "hospital" info, and phone them the verify this info. I had a Bitty Baby with one silver eye a few years ago that was taken care of with no charge. Removing nail polish from dolls skin This is super easy, just be sure to use Acetone free or Non-Acetone nail polish remover. Be careful on the dolls face! Polish remover can remove painted features, lip and cheek color! Nail polish with acetone will melt the dolls skin! Removing ink from Doll's skin First try the magic eraser and baking soda. If these don't shift the ink, I have heard that ink can be bleached out of doll skin using any acne medicine with 10% Benzoyl Peroxide. Dab the acne medicine on the ink spot and lay the doll in direct sunlight. It may take several repetitions before any results are seen. Be sure the cream has 10% benzoyl peroxide! Before & After I also had good luck removing pen with non-acetone nail polish remover. This was on a leg though and it did leave a slight trace after. Before after That's all for now. If I think of anything else I will add it later! I wanted to add a great tip from our reader, T Haddad about how to rid bad odors from dolls. T Haddad said... Hi, I just wanted thank you for sharing your information on American Girl doll care. I found an Elizabeth on line at eBay and won the auction (yea). But when she arrived she had a very bad cigarette smell 😕. So I had to clean and detox her. I had washed her with my Pantene shampoo and conditioner and it just did not look great. So I followed your tip about wig shampoo and conditioner and wow what a difference. Her hair looks lovely and silky. Also I would share a tip I found from YouTube about dolls that have come from a home with cigarette smell. I was not sure but I thought oh well it's worth try. I placed the doll in a large sealable bag I covered her eyes with cotton balls and taped them down firmly. Then I added unused kitty litter (just enough to cover her sleeping area when I laid her in the bag)and let her sleep for a few weeks (6 to be exact). I would check on her, fearing the dust would settle into her. But when removed from her catnap the smoke smell was gone. Yes I had to wash her and double check the leg and arms due to some kitty litter did get into the socket area, but it was worth the extra cleaning ( I had to check her sockets several times). Actually I was amazed that this process worked and no dust got into her eye do to the firm taping. Just wanted to share and say thank you, I enjoy your blog.
Sometimes your dolls need a little bit of grooming for improvement. here I have a Fashionably Floral. Her hairdresser was in rush when she was packed to leave the factory. her hair looks messy and…
Let's get our glam on! Nothing makes a doll look worse than bad hair! I see dolls that aren't in bad shape but their hair makes you cringe. As I have already shared with you, I love to fix up abused dolls and restore them to their former glory. Because of this, I have been able to add a lot of dolls to my collection for a fraction of the cost and so can you! I started fixing up this $30 Julie doll in A Doll Cleaning Tutorial. (If you just bought a tlc doll you will want to start there.) In that post I washed and brushed out the tangles and it really helped but today we are going to take it a step further. Please make sure to only use a wig brush on your doll's hair. (I use this one American Girl Brush.) Below is Julie's hair when I first bought her, after washing and brushing and lastly after a hot water dunk (HWD) and straightening. Nice and shiny! American Girl dolls have nice quality wigs of blended mod-acrylic fibers. Since their hair is basically plastic, the best way to return it to it's original shape and shine is to heat it up. The internet is filled with videos and posts telling you to do a Downy Dunk on your doll's hair to make it soft again. PLEASE DO NOT do this. It does help remove tangles but the fabric softener changes the hair. I made this mistake on my first fixer doll. She had a matted clump of hair and the internet told me to give her a Downy Dunk. Her hair became limp, greasy and it didn't restore shine at all. I was able to comb out the tangle, but the good part of her hair became gross. Her hair attracted dust and had an overall filmy coating. I was able to repair the hair a few years later but let's learn a better way! An American Girl doll has three styles of hair: Straight, Large Curls (or wavy) and Tight Ringlets. How you dunk the hair will depend on the style you want. First let's cover the dunking basics. You do not want to get any water in your doll's eyes, the heat can damage them and the water will eventually make them rust. With the doll's eyes in the closed position, tape a cotton ball or chunk of cotton pad over each eye. Protect the doll's cloth body with a plastic bag. I always start with a good hair washing especially if the doll is used. For instructions on washing your doll's hair visit A Doll Cleaning Tutorial. Bring a large pan of water to boil. Remove the pan from the heat and set your timer for 5 minutes. Once the water has cooled for 5 minutes it's time to dunk. [gallery ids=2255,2257 type=rectangular] You only want the hair to be in the water for 5-6 seconds at a time. I let the stop watch run and repeat the following: dunk hair into water for 5 seconds, pull it out for 5 seconds, dunk for 5 seconds, out for 5 seconds. I dunk about 6 times total. This places the hair in the water for a total of 30 seconds in 5 second intervals. Now lay the doll aside and let the hair cool down. I place the hair in the sink so it cannot puddle around the doll. [gallery ids=2258,2259,2260,2261 type=rectangular] For Straight Hair: Flat iron the hair while it is still wet. I lay the doll on her face (on a cloth for protection) and comb out a small section. With a flat iron on its lowest setting (mine is 140 degrees) start running it quickly over the combed section. If the flat iron is too hot or the hair dries out, it will melt the hair. (Remember your working with plastic.) I keep a spray bottle of water handy and spritz the hair if it starts getting dry. Steam will roll off as you go down the strands, this is normal. I go over each section 3-4 times and then comb down a new section and start over. Once you are finished, let the hair air dry. [gallery ids=2262,2263,2264 type=square] Now for curls! If you want curls or waves, you need to put the hair into curlers before dunking and then follow the dunking process. For Big Curls or Waves: Roll your dolls hair into sponge rollers. Start by spritzing a section of combed hair and roll it up into the rollers. I start in the back at the bottom. If you put the rollers against the scalp it will create poofs. You can find foam rollers anywhere. I use these inexpensive ones, foam hair rollers and keep multiple packs on hand. [gallery ids=2330,2331 type=rectangular] Once the hair is rolled, follow the dunking process above. Let the hair dry completely (over night). Once the hair is completely dry, unroll your beautiful curls. If you just want it to be wavy, use fewer curlers with larger sections of hair. Gently run your fingers through it until the curls loosen to the look you want. My Sonali's hair had been over-brushed by her previous owner, but after a curled HWD it's beautiful and shiny. [gallery ids=2328,2329 type=rectangular] For Tight Curls: Using a pen, pencil or small dowel rod wrap thin sections of wet hair around the pen and secure it with a bobby pin. (Make sure they are tight and secure or the water will pull them out.) Once all curls are in place follow the dunking process above. [gallery ids=2270,2271,2273,2274 type=rectangular] Once the curls are completely dry, remove the pins for tight, fun curls. If the curls are to tight, spritz with water and gently tug on them. This is a great style for dolls with textured hair. I hope this post can help you. If your doll needs help Restoring Doll Bangs, Pin Curls and Hair Parts check out the post. Have fun styling those dolls! [gallery ids=2501,2500 type=rectangular] I have also made How To Re-String A Doll Tutorial. Check it out! 😉
Heddy before (left) and after (right) Rerooting doll hair is an easy way to give your doll a new head of hair. There are many hair styles...
Sacrificial lamb Stomach unzips to reveal a menagerie of organs vital to any proper animal sacrifice. for sale here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/SophieKM
Nach der zauberhaften Idee von Michaela Bonk mit ihrem freundlichen Einverständnis.Das Babybettchen im Beutel ist für eine kleine Puppenmutti für unterwegs ein praktischer Begleiter. Beutel fix umgekrempelt und tada das Baby liegt im Bettchen und man kann damit spielen.Es ist superschnell gehäkelt und als Mitbringsel das absolute Highlight. Du kannst es in den unterschiedlichsten Farben häkeln und es wird geliebt werden. Gaaanz gewiss!!Auch für Anfänger bestens geeignet. Jegliche Wollreste können dafür verwendet werden.Du erwirbst hier lediglich die Häkelanleitung jedoch NICHT die fertigen Bettchen.Verkauf, Tausch, Vervielfältigung und Veröffentlichung (inkl. Übersetzungen) der Anleitung (einschließlich Veröffentlichung im Internet) sind untersagt. Der Verkauf der fertigen Bettchen ist erlaubt.
Sometimes your dolls need a little bit of grooming for improvement. here I have a Fashionably Floral. Her hairdresser was in rush when she was packed to leave the factory. her hair looks messy and…
Last year in September, I attempted The Journey of Fixing up an American Girl Doll that I bought from ebay that needed TLC (tender-loving-care). In Part 1 of my journey, my sister Hope and I tried our best to fix...
Crochet big doll in blue dress and blue hat. Dolls size is 48 cm . Completely wire structured, dolls and legs can band and fix positions. Dolls clothes are removable . Crochet doll is selling with a bunny . Dolls eyes , nose and months are embroidered, the hair is crocheted .
Large wooden doll stands with rigid holder, handmade of preсious wood, custom production.. Suitable for dolls and teddy bears of various sizes. Strong wooden holder can successfully fix tall or heavy dolls. These stands are made of natural apple, maple, walnut wood and other precious woods with beautiful patterns. The product is environmentally friendly as the wood has not been treated with any chemical agents, varnishes or dyes. The color of each of the stands is the natural color of the wood. The choice of wood is random depending on the raw materials available. (Please note that stands from different parties may differ in color and wood texture from those shown in the photograph) The stand consist of a base and a holder. Holder part consists of a rigid wooden post and an elastic steel wire. There are different shapes of stands bases and holders of different heights. The price of the stand depends on the size of its wooden parts and does not depend on the height of the holder. The holders are collapsible, so they take up little space during transportation and storage. If you want, you can leave the stand collapsible, or permanently connect the base and the holder using universal glue. All these stands are customized; they can be made in strict accordance with the dimensions you specify. So that I can make a stand that will be most suitable for your doll, you must indicate its exact dimensions and individual characteristics (for example, the rigidity of the doll material). How to order the doll stand: In the drop-down windows you can select the desired shape and size of the stand base and the height of the holder. If you need help with choosing the parameters of the stand, write to me and I will be happy to answer your questions. For a custom order you can specify the desired parameters in the "Personalisation" window or message me. To make the most suitable holder I need to know dolls height, distance from its heels to waist and to armpits, body circumference at the level of the waist and armpits. It is also highly advisable to indicate whether the doll is rigid or soft and flexible, and how much weight it has. Also let me know if your doll does not have its own stability on its feet (soft legs or very small feet). Recommendations for choosing the size of the stand: These stands designed to hold dolls and teddy bears with any weight, which are made of different materials - plastic, textile, porcelain, ceramics, polymeric clay e.t.c. Stands of this design will keep the doll in the waist or armpits. Since teddy bears and porcelain dolls weigh more than plastic and textile dolls, they should be supported with larger stand bases! The taller and heavier the doll, the larger the base of the stand should be. For good stability and a beautiful look, choose a base size that is larger than the length of the doll's feet. The depth of the stand base should not be narrower than the thickness of its body. Choose the holder not lower than the distance from the heels to the waist, and not higher than the distance from the heels to the armpits. For dolls 13-15 inch tall and more, as well as heavy dolls and teddies or very soft and bendable dolls of any height, it is recommended to place the holder loop not at the waist level, but higher at the level of the armpits So to choose the correct height for the holder, you need to measure the distance from the doll's heels to her waist and armpits. It is also advisable to indicate the waist circumference of doll` body to shoose the diameter of upper holders part. If you need help with choosing the size of the stand or the store does not have the height of the holder you need - write to me. I will be happy to help you choose the right size or make a holder of the desired height. In my store, you can also see another type of stands Wide stands for heavy or high dolls: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1048526625/wide-doll-stands-to-order-holder-for?click_key=3d3c1cb196088d79f38fdd58b88197b660e944a6%3A1048526625&click_sum=695e40e4&ref=shop_home_active_12&frs=1&sts=1
Just like my Maya basic doll, this crochet doll pattern needs no sewing. It's kind of like a smaller version of Maya. I design this doll for Nutshell Lane Studios group doll of the month for April. You can use any yarn and hook size making it to achieve the size you like. Finished doll size: 12 inches Using worsted weight yarn with size F/ 3.75 mm hook. Pattern is written in US Terminology. Abbreviation: Sc- single crochet Ch- chain Inc- increase Dec- invisible decrease St- stitch Sts- stitches Pattern start Arms: Make two. Crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds from hand to shoulder. Use a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts Round 1: 6 Sc in magic ring Round 2: Inc in each st around (12) Round 3: (Sc in next 3 sts, Inc in next st) repeat around (15) Round 4: Sc around (15) Round 5: Sc in next 5 sts, Bobble stitch in next, Sc in next 9 sts (14sc, 1 bobble to make a thumb) Round 6 : Sc around (15) Round 7: (Sc in next 3 sts, Dec) repeat around (12) Round 8: (Sc in next 4 sts, Dec) repeat around (10) Round 9-18: Sc around (10) Finish off. Arms are made ahead in this pattern for later attachment. Leg 1: Round 1: Ch9, Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 6 sts, 3 Sc in next st, On the other side of chain,Sc in next 6 sts, Inc in next (18) Round 2: Inc in next st, Sc in next 6 sts, Inc in next st, 3 Sc in next st,Inc in next st, Sc in next 6 sts, Inc in next st, 3 Sc in next st (26) Round 3: Inc in next st, Sc in next 8 sts, Inc in next st, (Sc in next st ,Inc in next) x2, Sc in next 8 sts, (Inc in next st, sc in next) x2 (32) Round 4: Sc in each st around working in back loops only. (32) Round 5-6: Sc in each st around (32) Round 7: Sc in next 7 sts, Dec x3, Sc in next 2 sts, Dec x3, Sc in next 11 sts (26) Round 8: Sc in next 6 sts, Dec x2, Sc in next 2 sts, Dec x2, Sc in next 10 sts (22) Round 9: Sc in next 5 sts, Dec x4, Sc in next 9 sts (18) Round 10-23: Sc in each st around (18) Finish off first leg, place marker in 14th stitch. Leg 2: Follow instruction for round 1-23 for the first leg DO NOT finish off. To join both legs with 2nd leg on hook,Continue working Sc in next 4 sts, Ch 2, Slip stitch where you place stitch marker in 1st leg. Start crocheting the Body. (Stuff as you go.) Continue to crochet in continuous spirals without joining the rounds, using a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts. Round 24: Ch 1, Sc in same stitch and each st around Leg 1, Sc along ch 2, Sc in each st around Leg 2, Sc along ch 2 (40) Round 25: Sc in next 8 sts, Inc in next st, Sc in next 19 sts, Inc in next st, Sc in next 11 sts (42) Round 25-28: Sc in each st around (42) Round 29: (Sc in next 12 sts, Dec) repeat around (39) Round 30-31: Sc in each st around (39) Round 32: (Dec, Sc in next 11 sts) repeat around (36) Round 33-34: Sc in each st around (36) Round 35: (Sc in next 10 sts, Dec) repeat around (33) Round 36-37: Sc in each st around (33) Round 38: (Dec, Sc in next 9 sts) repeat around (30) Round 39: Sc in each st around (30) Round 40: Sc in each st around,Crochet arms on the side of body as you go with the thumb facing front. Shoulder: Round 41: (Sc in next st, Dec) repeat around (20) Round 42: (Sc in next 2 sts, Dec) repeat around (15) Neck: (Stuff it FIRMLY) Round 43-44: Sc in each st around (15) Round 45: Sc around working in back loops only. (15) Round 46-49: Sc in each st around (15) Round 50: (Sc in next st, Dec) repeat around (10) Round 51: Dec around (5) Finish off, cut yarn leaving long tail. Using a yarn needle, Thread through each stitch and pull tightly to close the neck. Note: Your doll looks weird right? The neck is made this way to create a floppy head stopper. Head: Attach yarn at the back of the neck,in the remaining loop of round 44. Round 1: Ch 1, Inc in each st around (30) Round 2: (Sc in next 4 sts,Inc in next st) repeat around (36) Round 3: (Sc in next 5 sts,Inc in next st) repeat around (42) Round 4: (Sc in next 6 sts,Inc in next st) repeat around (48) Round 5: (Sc in next 7 sts,Inc in next st) repeat around (54) Round 6-14: Sc in each st around (54) Place Safety eyes between rounds 10-11. Round 15: (Sc in next 7 sts,Dec) repeat around (48) Round 16: (Sc in next 6 sts,Dec) repeat around (42) Round 17: (Sc in next 5 sts,Dec) repeat around (36) Round 18: (Sc in next 4 sts,Dec) repeat around (30) Round 19: (Sc in next 3 sts,Dec) repeat around (24) Stuff the head firmly as you go. Round 20: (Sc in next 2 sts,Dec) repeat around (18) Round 21: (Sc in next st,Dec) repeat around (12) Round 22: Dec around (6) Finish off, cut yarn leaving long tail. Using a yarn needle, Thread through each stitch and pull tightly to close the head. For dress and hair cap pattern CLICK HERE! ** My patterns are free and I would like them to stay that way. You are free to print them out for your personal use. Please do not sell my patterns or say they are your own. You are free to do whatever you want with the finished item. If you are selling them online please link back the pattern and give me credit. If you want to share the pattern please see Terms of use to be guided accordingly.Thanks and enjoy crocheting. ©2018 by Nelly Lopez. All rights reserved
