Manage content via Ghost's Admin API, with secure role-based authentication. Read more on Ghost Docs 👉
Ultimate Footer Builder - Addon WPBakery Page Builder (formerly Visual Composer) free download, nulled Check more at https://www.geckothemes.com/ultimate-footer-builder-addon-wpbakery-page-builder-formerly-visual-composer/
We all know that the WordPress Settings API is hard, and while it provides you with more control, there is a need for a single API that can be used to build admin panel settings pages, meta boxes...
Gmart E-commerce React Native App is a complete solution for your store, this is fully functional and ready to use app with React and NodeJS framework, REST API backend. It has a powerful admin panel for managing products with options, users, categories, orders, privacy policy, about and much more. Gmart comes with functionality to charge payment with Razor pay.
Reactify is a developer-friendly powerful reactjs template developed with redux, react hooks, redux-thunk, webpack 4, laravel and bootstrap 4.. It is fully responsive and supports RTL languages with an integrated language translation method. It provides ready to use components, widgets, and pages which makes it super easy to build a new admin panel as per requirement. It comes with pre-integrated API methods that provide you the power to build your dynamic listing pages with ease. Directly usable widgets give you the flexibility to show multiple details on your dashboard and other pages. If you are building a SAAS product please purchase an extended license. Reactify has dashboards like Ecommerce, CRM, Saas, Agency, and News with ready to u
PRICES MAY VARY. Part of Helikon's Bushcraft Line. Main compartment loop lined for individual customisation. Front loop panel for hook-backed patches or tags. Durable YKK zipper fastening. Rubberized glove-friendly zipper pulls allow a firm grip. Zipped mesh pocket under the opening flap Durable drag handle. Elastic shock cord on top for strapping additional gear. Nylon straps with hook-and-loop ties for extra attachments at the bottom. Two external side pockets with elasticated cuffs sized for water bottles Hook-and-loop secured expandable admin pocket with multiple slots and high-quality grommet to attach a keys. Adjustable and detachable H-Suspenders with sternum strap and multiple D-Rings. Padded back and waist panels for added shock resistance 1.96" (50mm) wide hip belt with quick rel
Liferay plugin portal json web services :- liferay support the rest api. by using that we have to create restful web services and the data format of that is json.liferay internally supports to create json services. it already have many portal json web services, these are simple url calls by using web services, we can get the json data and use any where to consume web services.in this tutorial i am guiding you about the plugin portal web services of liferay. you can see all portal json web service by accessing following url. http://localhost:8080/api/jsonws/to make a restful web services follow the following steps:-1. create service.xml in your plugin portlet project.service.xml
Warrior Assault Systems Low Profile Plate Carrier V2 The Warrior Assault Systems Low Profile Plate Carrier V2 is the newest, coolest and most low profile carrier in the Warrior Assault lineup. Super quick to connect and ditch using the quick connectors on the cummerbund, the Low Profile Carrier V2 comes with Ladder Side Cummerbunds The Patent Pending Warrior LPC Low Profile Plate Carrier represents a new generation of armor carriers. Designed with direct input from serving operators within the SF community, the LPC incorporates many new features that combine to make it one of the best carriers on the market today. The LPC features our new air vent thermo pads, which allows heat to evaporate from the body and increase the airflow to assist in cooling. The Thermo Pad also helps to decrease the back plate signature associated with ballistic trauma. The LPC incorporates our speed clip system, which allows very rapid removal of the carrier on a day to day basis, but also in an emergency situation, no complicated cables to worry about, and reassembly takes seconds. The LPC utilizes state of the art materials to reduce the overall signature and weight. It comes as standard with a removable MOLLE front flap held in place by 2 vertical QASM clips and hook and loop which allows the panel to be removed and replaced with a wide variety of preconfigured panels that are both weapon and mission specific. The carrier holds 10” x 12” ICW and stand alone plates front and back, and up to 6” x 6” side plates and soft armor. Warrior Assault Systems Low Profile Plate Carrier V2 Features: 500D Crye MultiCam NylonThermo Pads for Cooling & Comfortcompatible with the RPC panel’sInterchangeable Front PanelsHolds Hard & Soft ArmorQuick release Speed ClipsLarge Upper Admin PocketRemovable shoulder PadsHyperlon shouldersLow profileLightweight
**CLEARANCE/SALE ITEMS (Multicam® only) ARE FINAL SALE. STRIKE INDUSTRIES WILL ONLY REVIEW AND OFFER WARRANTY REPLACEMENTS FROM MANUFACTURER DEFECTS.** The Boogeyman Chest Rig Bag is designed to be a low-profile lightweight modular system for you to customize for any mission-specific setup. From the Strike Gear® line of soft goods, this versatile Boogeyman can be used as a chest rig, mini range bag (minus ammo), messenger bag, Conceal Carry Weapon (CCW), Everyday Carry (EDC), medical kit, tool bag, hiking/outdoor hip pack, belt pack and plenty more. The Boogeyman is made with YKK zippers that include a U-shaped nylon pull tab for fast and comfortable opening of the pockets. When looking to design the most modular system, a must was to add side webbing loops to provide a wide range of possibilities to store, attach, or clip various items. At the sides of the front pocket, there are 4-way stretch storage pockets for such items as knives, multi-tools, and pistol magazines. Inside the main pocket, you will find three (x3) elastic webbing loops to organize your gear or insert rifle/pistol magazines. In the front pocket, you will find four (x4) individual elastic webbing loops. The main pocket can fit an AR500 plate up to 6”x8”. With organization in mind for the user, inside both the main and front pockets of the Boogeyman Chest Rig Bag you will find a loop side lined wall to organize your gear with any Strike Gear® accessories and inserts (sold separately) as well as any of your favorite patches. Also compatible with many other inserts, pouches, and holders on the market you may already own or want to get that have a hook side backing. On the back side of the Boogeyman, you will find a full loop side wall so you can pair with the Strike Gear® Hook Panel (sold separately) to connect and stack an additional Boogeyman bag to serve as an admin or medical pouch. There are 7 possible areas on the chest rig where you can locate the included ITW Split-Bar body buckles to set the straps however necessity dictates, including configuring buckles to attach the Boogeyman to an existing carrier, chest rig or other soft goods you already have. You can quickly convert the Boogeyman to a messenger bag with a simple unsnap of the button on the back of the bag and store it back we unused. This messenger bag conversion strap can also be used with a 1.5” belt as a belt pack. A D-Ring is located on one side of the top of the Boogeyman so you can lock the main pocket zipper or use as a key hanger and more. Out of the box you will get two (x2) shoulder straps with ITW latch and body buckles and a 3-bar slider adjuster. The included waist strap has the same ITW latch and body buckles but with two (x2) 3-bar slider adjusters which helps with adjustments for configuring the chest rig setup or to convert the Boogeyman into a hip pack perfect for those hiking/outdoor instances. The Field Grey and Black versions of the Boogeyman is made with 500 Denier nylon fabric and the Woodland and MultiCam® versions is made with 420 Denier nylon fabric. The Strike Gear® Boogeyman Chest Rig Bag gives you an extremely modular market option to carry what you need, whether it is a trip to the range or just a normal work day. --Measurements located in PRODUCT SPEC tab-- COMPATIBILITY: Can be used with JPC patterned plate carriers with clips and optional Strike Gear® Hook Adapter. OPTIONAL STRIKE GEAR® ACCESSORIES/INSERTS SOLD SEPARATELY: -Adjustable Shock Cord Holster -Elastic Webbing Loop Holder -Hook Panel -Hook Adapter WARNING AND DISCLAIMER: YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY. EXTREME CARE SHOULD BE USED WHEN HANDLING, TRANSPORTING, STORING, INSERTING OR REMOVING A FIREARM WHEN THIS PRODUCT IS USED WITH A FIREARM. ANY LOADED FIREARM HAS A CHANCE FOR ACCIDENTAL OR NEGLIGENT DISCHARGE. STRIKE INDUSTRIES HAS NO CONTROL OVER YOUR SAFETY AND THE FIREARM YOU USE.
Geminate comes with the advanced feature of "Multiple Odoo Instances" connection with "Single Vue Storefront" which provides a lot of flexibility and saves a lot of server cost and maintenance effort as we dont need to maintain multiple vue storefront instances for multiple odoo servers. so no more one to one connection between single odoo and single vue storefront, enjoy the power of multiple audio with single vue storefront with Geminate Connector . Why Odoo? Odoo is unusual among eCommerce integration options in that it offers ERP, eCommerce, and CMS functionality without the need for extra software. Odoo is a suite of open-source Odoo Integration business software that address all of a company's needs, according to its official website: CRM, eCommerce, accounting, inventory, point of sale, project management, and so on. Overall, Odoo's distinct value proposition is that it is both simple to use and completely integrated. Why Vue Storefront? Vue Storefront provides a user experience that is similar to that of a native mobile app: A look and feel that is consistent with the platform's native appearance and feel, which means: On the home screen, there is an app icon. The app can operate in full screen mode. Because the app caches layouts and content, loading times are reduced after the Service Workers are installed. The mobile app strives to respond to user input as quickly as possible, avoiding the use of the internet as much as feasible. Push notifications can be used to re-engage users. Vue Storefront eliminates the hassle of maintaining multiple native development projects — for example, one for Android and one for iOS – by providing a single platform that reduces development expenses. Furthermore, by allowing Server-Side Rendering for the first webpage load, we can emphasize the importance of SEO in the eCommerce market and provide a solution that can be crawled by search engines. Changing Vue Storefront's default architecture Vue Storefront's architecture incorporates a NoSQL/ElasticSearch database back-end by default. However, the recommended architecture for this project eliminates the Elastic Search data store in favor of directly integrating the front-end with the Odoo back-end to prevent the maintenance of two different data stores. As a result, the new architecture is built on the idea that the front-end should be able to crawl the Odoo back-end API directly, as shown in the picture below. Search Adapter The magnificence known as Search Adapter is a client-facet code that's accountable of retrieving the subsequent information from the back-end: Product Attribute Category Tax rule As a result, this elegance is accountable of loading the product list that looks on the house display and class pages, now no longer handiest while the consumer makes a search. While the default Search Adapter supplied through Vue Storefront retrieves statistics from the ElasticSearch back-cease, this venture makes use of a RESTful API the use of JSON layout as back-end. Changes that should be completed to be able to obtain an operating verbal exchange among the front-end and the Odoo back-end are available in this repo: Odoo module The API improvement of this assignment is packaged as an Odoo module, which consists through the subsequent elements: Controllers Business objects Data files Static web data Controllers They are declared as Python training that cope with requests with the aid of using extended the Controller magnificence from odoo .http package. In the case of this project, there are 3 Controllers: PublicAPIController Handles requests which do now no longer use person authentication. Examples: retrieve products, signal up, etc. PrivateAPIController Handles requests which could use consumer authentication (it is able to both be required or optional). Examples: upload product to cart, edit profile, etc. TokenAPIController Handles requests approximately producing or invalidating authentication tokens. It gets the credentials of the user – electronic mail and password – after which returns the computed token. Business objects They are declared as Python training extending Model elegance from odoo. Fashions package deal, which integrates them into the automatic patience system (database). In the case of this project: • AccessToken is a brand new version created to encapsulate the attributes of every authentication token, which includes its lifetime and the associated user. • User version has been explicitly created with the intention to increase the present User version to feature the associated identity tokens. Data files In the case of this project, it is composed in an XML record affirming configuration data (module parameterization). It is named "ir_config_param.xml" inner the "data" folder and consists of a parameter, that's the wide variety of seconds of life of the authentication token. Static web data They are static assets, which include images, CSS documents or JavaScript documents that may be utilized by the internet interface or Odoo website. In the case of this project, they may be placed interior the "static" folder, which incorporates the "description" assets, which can be used to show the module inside the Odoo management panel. Installation of the Odoo module odoo-addons - modules you need for Odoo; • packages/api-client - communicates with a backend; • packages/composables - exposes composable functions used to retrieve data using api-client and to map them to universal data formats using getters; • packages/theme - nuxt project that glues everything together. It extends our core theme and uses composables to retrieve data. Installation of Vue Storefront Note that the Odoo module just includes the needed API.: Remember to set useExactUrlsNoProxy to true, if you are not using ImageMagick or similar.In order to set up a production environment, it is recommended to follow this instruction. Otherwise, in case you are just developing, just run yarn in order to install the dependencies and then yarn dev in order to compile and run the front-end in your browser. For further installation support and procedure, please get in touch on [email protected] Compatibility Odoo v13 Vue Storefront v1.9.2
Hello everyone, this is Lisa Tilson from My Card Trip and I am delighted to be a guest on the Spellbinders blog today. I will be featuring the super fun Envelope of Wonder Collection and have three cards to share with you. This collection consists of four different envelope collections plus an accompanying clear sentiment stamp set along with a Press Plate and Die Set. I use two of the envelope collections as they were intended but my third card shows how you can use them on a A2 sized card. These sets are good fun with lots of options for filling the envelope – either to bursting point and also in a more clean and simple way. Just A Note To Say Thanks My first card uses the Autumn Wonder Etched Dies and I have created an offset bundle of Autumnal delights in my envelope. Start off by creating your envelope using the Envelope of Wonder Etched Dies. This die is simple to put together, just make sure that you use strong adhesive when gluing the pieces together so it holds up when you add your images. I went for a neutral cardstock that would blend well with my autumn-themed die cuts. Next, I picked out my cardstock colors and then I die-cut the different elements that I thought I would use including some extras that would be helpful as fillers. I used colored card from my stash along with Tuscan and Saffron Color Essentials Cardstocks. I added ink blending using Lumberjack Plaid and Ground Espresso Distress Inks to my mushrooms, Rusty Hinge Distress Ink to my gourd, and Ground Espresso Distress Ink to my acorn. I adhered all the pieces together where needed and set them to one side. I then picked a suitable sentiment from the Envelope of Wonder Sentiments Clear Stamp Set and stamped it onto some dark grey card using sticky embossing ink. I applied white detail embossing powder and heat set before trimming it out with the tag die from the Envelope of Wonder Etched Dies. I also die-cut the tag strings at the same time and threaded them through the hole in the tag, securing them in place. The fun part starts when pulling your arrangement together. Once I was happy with all of my image placements, I took a photo and then dismantled all of it! Using my photo as my guide, I adhered each of my die cuts back into the inside of the envelope, or along the outer edge. When adding my sentiment tag, I popped some thin foam tape onto the back first. I left the top parts of the leaves and mushrooms free from glue as I like them to look a little bit airy and it also adds some more interest to the final design. Card 2 – From Me To Boo My second card shows you how to use your images in a different way and I used quite a lot of the different die options from the Halloween Wonder Etched Dies to create my spooky but sweet scene. As I did with the first card, I started by pulling out all the different colored card I thought I would use. A few were discarded along the way but it’s good to have options! I die-cut all the different elements that I knew I would need, plus a few that I wasn’t sure about so I could play about with different arrangements. The die cuts were all adhered together and set to one side. I created an American A2-sized top folding notecard from Fog Color Essentials Cardstock. I also cut an A2 panel of fog card using one of the arched dies from Essential Arches Etched Dies. I began by gluing the cobwebs and one of the boo garlands behind the arch before I popped some thin foam tape onto the back of the arch panel and added it to the base card. The remaining elements were inserted into the scene either with foam tape or just directly into the arch with wet adhesive. I thought it would be cute to add a boo garland onto the ghost and it fits just perfectly! To finish, I stamped a sentiment from Envelope of Wonder Sentiments Clear Stamp Set onto a black card with sticky embossing ink. I applied white detail embossing powder and heat set it. It was trimmed and popped inside the arch. Although I went with a traditional card here, I thought it would be great fun to add the bats and a few ghosts onto thin acetate strips and have them appear to be flying around outside of the envelope. That’s for another day! Card 3 – Christmas Wishes Enclosed My final card is a “go big or go home” option using the Envelope of Wonder Etched Dies and the Christmas Wonder Etched Dies. This time I created my envelope mostly from plain white card, but I did add some white glitter card to the inside of the top flap. There is lots of sparkle in this card and I went with a traditional red, green, gold, and white color palette. I pretty much used all the dies in the set and I die-cut several flowers, candy canes, gingerbread men, and sweets. So, this envelope is bursting with glittery fun! I added a little bit of ink blending onto the gingerbread men so that they didn’t appear quite so flat and I used Brushed Corduroy Distress Ink for that. It did take me some time to come up with my final arrangement as there was a lot to pack in but I started building it up by placing the three poinsettias followed by the two gingerbread men, as they were the largest of the die cuts. All of the other elements were added gradually and I opted to have a few of them spilling outside of the envelope as well. Once again, I took a photo before taking everything back out and reassembling it with glue. This part goes pretty quickly once you know your design. To finish up, I stamped the “Christmas Wishes Enclosed” sentiment from Envelope of Wonder Sentiments Clear Stamp Set using sticky embossing ink. I applied gold embossing powder and heat set it before trimming it out with the tag die from Envelope of Wonder Etched Dies. That brings us to the end of my cards. I hope that they have inspired you to create these unique envelope cards which are sure to be a really fun surprise for the recipient. Thank you for your visit today and happy crafting! Other Supplies Neenah Solar White Classic Crest 80lb/110lb, thin foam tape, tweezers, embellishment wand, die cutting machine, wet adhesive, Hero Arts White Detail Embossing Powder, MISTI, other colored cardstock from stash, Versamark Ink, Hero Arts Gold Embossing Powder, Hero Arts Glitter Paper Holiday Sparkle, Hero Arts Glitter Paper Basics, Hero Arts Blending Brushes
Need to shoot clothing photography for social media, an e-commerce store or your product photography business? It's important to take pictures that are inviting, so your customers want to buy what you're selling! Time to make your outfits shine through beautiful photography with these simple steps. The Benefits of Conceptualising Your Clothing Photography Shoot Beforehand A crucial step in clothing photography that a lot of people don’t do is conceptualizing the photo shoot. First, you need to ask yourself why you need to take photos of the outfit. Is it going to be for an e-commerce website, a social media post, or a lifestyle shoot? Knowing the purpose of the shoot allows you to narrow down your requirements. For instance, if it’s going to be for e-commerce, you might need to use a white background. If it’s for social media or lifestyle, you might need a few props to style your images. Next, think of how you’re going to photograph the clothes. Look at style, color, and texture to help you decide which props or background to use. Feel free to sketch your ideas on paper. Pick a Background That Matches the Clothing Style The type of backdrop you use depends on where you plan to use the images. While e-commerce requires a plain background, lifestyle photos often demand realistic settings. When it comes to e-commerce, a white background is often the standard. The main reason is that it creates uniformity in all the listings from different sellers. But its plain profile also makes it less distracting and makes the outfits stand out. Don’t worry if you don’t have a studio with a white background. You can always use all sorts of DIY photography backdrops such as a wall or even a blanket. If you want a consistent look, you can also get a seamless paper backdrop as well. You can buy one at craft stores for as low as ten dollars. All you have to do is tape it to your wall, and you have yourself a photo shoot studio. For lifestyle, you can use just about anything as your backdrop. You can shoot in front of walls for eye-level shots or even on floors or tables for flay lay (overhead) images. The option you choose has to work well with your outfit. So, if you have a modern dress, don’t pick a rustic brick wall because their styles don’t match. The colors of your backdrop also shouldn’t overpower the clothes. If in doubt, refer to the color wheel and look for options that complement the tones of the outfit. Keep a Lint Roller Nearby to Ensure the Clothes Look Great Paying attention to details is essential in product photography. So you need to take time your outfits look perfect before you start clicking that shutter. The main issue you’ll encounter with clothes are wrinkles. To avoid having to edit out creases in Photoshop, try to iron them before you shoot. Or consider using a steamer if you can’t apply direct heat to the garment. Lint is another problem you’ll find when shooting clothing photography. Always bring a lint roller to pick up the tiny particles clinging onto your outfits. Lighting Setup for Clothing Photography Lighting doesn’t have to be a challenge when it comes to DIY clothing photography. We’ll show you tricks to achieve professional results without expensive lighting kits. The first solution is to shoot beside a wide window during the daytime. Doing so allows you to diffuse the light coming from the sun, producing even lighting. But what if you need to shoot at night? Consider buying a small work light, instead. For about twenty dollars, you’ll have a powerful kit that would let you shoot indoors. For best results, hang a white curtain about a meter away from the work light to diffuse the harsh beam. Position your DIY kit about 45 degrees from the outfit to ensure even lighting. If you have a few extra dollars, then think about buying a small softbox. Each one runs about 50 US dollars and up. It may not be that cheap, but it’s a great investment. Especially if you see yourself shooting a lot of clothing photography in the future. Use Lenses With Focal Lengths Over 50mm Lenses can affect the perspective of your image. If you use short focal lengths such as 18mm or 35mm, expect your photos to have a fisheye effect. In other words, it makes the outfit look much bigger than it is. Make it a point to avoid wide-angle lenses. Stick to focal lengths from 50mm and above. This will help you better capture the correct dimensions of your product. It’s okay if you have an 18-55mm kit lens. Just set the zoom all the way up to 55mm, and you’re good to go. You may have to step back to get everything in the frame, but at least the clothes won’t look distorted. If you have the money, you can also invest in a portrait lens such as the 85mm or 135mm. They not only reduce distortion, but they also make outfits look slim. Camera Settings for Clothing Photography Now that you have your lens, it’s now time to learn how to photograph clothes using the correct camera settings. First, let’s start with the aperture. Use a narrow f-stop such as f/8 or f./11 if you want both your backdrop and the outfit to look sharp. Now if you like your background to look blurry, then choose a low aperture such as f/4 or 5.6. Try not to go all the way down to f/1.8 or f/2, or you could risk blurring some parts of the clothes you’re photographing. Feel free to switch to Aperture Priority, so you don’t need to tweak with the shutter speed anymore. Just make sure the value doesn’t go any lower than 1/60th of a second if your hand-holding it. Otherwise, you might end up with motion blur in your image. Finally, keep your ISO to 100 to reduce image noise. Especially since the higher ISO values you use, the more visible the grain you'll have in your photo. If there isn’t enough light available, adjust the shutter speed, instead. Since you’re dealing with a static subject, you can always use a tripod so you can work with anything slower than 1/60th. Popular Composition Setups for Apparel and Clothing Photos Now that your camera, backdrop, and lights, are ready, it’s time to start setting up the clothes. There are several ways to photograph outfits. The most common ones are flat lay, eye level, and ghost mannequin. We’ll go through each method to help you figure out what you need to use for your photo shoot. The first one is the flat lay. As the term suggests, it involves laying the clothes flat on a surface such as a table or a floor. You can take photos of the garments either folded or open. You also have the option to include a few small props to make your photo appear authentic. Once everything is set up, shoot with the camera facing down 90 degrees. The next popular method is the eye-level shot. It involves positioning your lens at the same level as the outfit. To display the items you’re shooting, you can either hang it on a hanger, use a DIY mannequin, or a live model. Try different angles to make sure you show all the details in the garment. Take photos of the front, the back, and the sides. The ghost mannequin is a variation of the eye-level shot. What makes it different is that it makes the outfit look like someone’s wearing it except you don't see the person at all. So how do you take clothing photography without mannequins? It’s easier than you think. First, take a photo of a person or a mannequin wearing the outfit. Next, turn the garment inside out and photograph the reverse side of the collar. You then load the files onto Photoshop. Use the pen tool to cut away the wearer’s limbs in the first image. Finally, paste the image of the reverse side of the outfit behind, and that’s it! Use the Spot Healing Tool to Remove Blemishes No matter how much you iron the clothes, you’ll never be able to remove every single wrinkle. And that’s where editing comes in. There are three main ways to get rid of any blemishes on garments, and we’ll go through how to use each one. The first and most common method is using the spot healing brush tool. Once you select it, all you have to do is to click on the blemish, and Photoshop automatically removes it for you. Sometimes, the spot healing brush tool leaves ugly blotches in the edited areas. So when this happens, you can use the patch tool instead. Click and hold down your mouse as you draw around the blemish. Once you create a selection, click it again and drag it to a clean region in the photo. Photoshop then copies that section to cover the ugly parts. If you’re dealing with huge wrinkles, consider using the clone stamp tool. Alt+click to copy a smooth section and click again to apply it on the creases. It might leave a few marks, so feel free to apply the spot healing brush or the patch tool after. Remove Wrinkles With Frequency Separation If you have tiny creases that seem impossible to remove, then try frequency separation to make your outfit appear smooth. It sounds complicated, but it’s easy to do. First, create two duplicates of your image. Name the first one Low Frequency and the second one High Frequency. Next, hide the High-Frequency layer and select the Low-Frequency layer. Go to Filter, click on Blur, then Gaussian Blur. Increase the radius of the pixels until the wrinkles aren’t visible, anymore. Now, go to High-Frequency and click the box where the eye icon used to be to make it visible again. Go to Image and select Apply Image. Choose Low Freq as your Layer, then go to Blending and click on Subtract, then Okay. Once the dialogue box closes, go to the Layers Panel and select Linear Light for the Blending Mode. Click on Low-Frequency, then go to the Tools Panel, right click on the Brush Tool, and choose the Mixer Brush Tool. Go to Options Bar and change the wet value between 3 to 5. Now paint on the wrinkles and see them slowly disappear. Conclusion: Clothing Photography Learning how to photograph clothing can be fun whether you’re doing it as a hobby or for business. So start going through your closet and start practising what you learned today. Once you get the hang of it, you’ll see the difference in the quality of your images.
Soldering is defined as "the joining of metals by a fusion of alloys which have relatively low melting points". In other words, you use a metal that has a low melting point to adhere the surfaces to be soldered together. Consider that soldering is more like gluing with molten metal, unlike welding where the base metals are actually melted and combined. Soldering is also a must have skill for all sorts of electrical and electronics work. It is also a skill that must be taught correctly and developed with practice. This tutorial will cover the most common types of soldering required for electronics work. This includes soldering components to printed circuit boards and soldering a spliced wire joint. Soldering Equipment The Soldering Iron/Gun The first thing you will need is a soldering iron, which is the heat source used to melt solder. Irons of the 15W to 30W range are good for most electronics/printed circuit board work. Anything higher in wattage and you risk damaging either the component or the board. Soldering Iron If you intend to solder heavy components and thick wire, then you will want to invest in an iron of higher wattage (40W and above) or one of the large soldering guns. The main difference between an iron and a gun is that an iron is pencil shaped and designed with a pinpoint heat source for precise work, while a gun is in a familiar gun shape with a large high wattage tip heated by flowing electrical current directly through it. Soldering Gun For hobbyist electronics use, a soldering iron is generally the tool of choice as its small tip and low heat capacity is suited for printed circuit board work (such as assembling kits). A soldering gun is generally used in heavy duty soldering such as joining heavy gauge wires, soldering brackets to a chassis or stained glass work. You should choose a soldering iron with a 3-pronged grounding plug. The ground will help prevent stray voltage from collecting at the soldering tip and potentially damaging sensitive (such as CMOS) components. By their nature, soldering guns are quite "dirty" in this respect as the heat is generated by shorting a current (often AC) through the tip made of formed wire. Guns will have much less use in hobbyist electronics so if you have only one tool choice, an iron is what you want. For a beginner, a 15W to 30W range is the best but be aware that at the 15W end of that range, you may not have enough power to join wires or larger components. As your skill increases, a 40W iron is an excellent choice as it has the capacity for slightly larger jobs and makes joints very quickly. Be aware that it is often best to use a more powerful iron so that you don't need to spend a lot of time heating the joint, which can damage components. A variation of the basic gun or iron is the soldering station, where the soldering instrument is attached to a variable power supply. A soldering station can precisely control the temperature of the soldering tip unlike a standard gun or iron where the tip temperature will increase when idle and decrease when applying heat to a joint. However, the price of a soldering station is often ten to one hundred times the cost of a basic iron and thus really isn't an option for the hobby market. But if you plan to do very precise work, such as surface mount, or spend 8 hours a day behind a soldering iron, then you should consider a soldering station. The rest of this document will assume that you are using a soldering iron as that is what the majority of electronics work requires. The techniques for using a soldering gun are basically the same with the only difference being that heat is only generated when the trigger is pressed. Solder The choice of solder is also important. There several kinds of solder available but only a few are suitable for electronics work. Most importantly, you will only use rosin core solder. Acid core solder is common in hardware stores and home improvement stores, but meant for soldering copper plumbing pipes and not electronic circuits. If acid core solder is used on electronics, the acid will destroy the traces on the printed circuit board and erode the component leads. It can also form a conductive layer leading to shorts. For most printed circuit board work, a solder with a diameter of 0.75MM to 1.0MM is desirable. Thicker solder may be used and will allow you to solder larger joints more quickly, but will make soldering small joints difficult and increase the likelihood of creating solder bridges between closely spaced PCB pads. An alloy of 60/40 (60% tin, 40% lead) is used for most electronics work. These days, several lead-free solders are available as well. Kester "44" Rosin Coresolder has been a staple of electronics for many years and continues to be available. It is available in several diameters and has a non-corrosive flux. Large joints, such as soldering a bracket to a chassis using a high wattage soldering gun, will require a separate application of brush on flux and a thick diameter solder of several millimeters. Remember that when soldering, the flux in the solder will release fumes as it is heated. These fumes are harmful to your eyes and lungs. Therefore, always work in a well ventilated area and avoid breathing the smoke created. Hot solder is also dangerous. It is surprisingly easy to splash hot solder onto yourself, which is a thoroughly unpleasant experience. Eye protection is also advised. Preparing To Solder Tinning The Soldering TipBefore use, a new soldering tip, or one that is very dirty, must be tinned. "Tinning" is the process of coating a soldering tip with a thin coat of solder. This aids in heat transfer between the tip and the component you are soldering, and also gives the solder a base from which to flow from. Step 1: Warm Up The IronWarm up the soldering iron or gun thoroughly. Make sure that it has fully come to temperature because you are about to melt a lot of solder on it. This is especially important if the iron is new because it may have been packed with some kind of coating to prevent corrosion. Step 2: Prepare A Little SpaceWhile the soldering iron is warming up, prepare a little space to work. Moisten a little sponge and place it in the base of your soldering iron stand or in a dish close by. Lay down a piece of cardboard in case you drip solder (you probably will) and make sure you have room to work comfortably. Step 3: Thoroughly Coat The Tip In SolderThoroughly coat the soldering tip in solder. It is very important to cover the entire tip. You will use a considerable amount of solder during this process and it will drip, so be ready. If you leave any part of the tip uncovered it will tend to collect flux residue and will not conduct heat very well, so run the solder up and down the tip and completely around it to totally cover it in molten solder. Step 4: Clean The Soldering Tip After you are certain that the tip is totally coated in solder, wipe the tip off on the wet sponge to remove all the flux residue. Do this immediately so there is no time for the flux to dry out and solidify. Step 5: You're Done!You have just tinned your soldering tip. This must be done anytime you replace the tip or clean it so that the iron maintains good heat transfer. Soldering A Printed Circuit Board (PCB) Soldering a PCB is probably the most common soldering task an electronics hobbyist will perform. The basic techniques are fairly easy to grasp but it is a skill that will take a little practice to master. The best way to practice is to buy a simple electronics kit or assemble a simple circuit (such as an LED chaser) on a perf-board. Don't buy that expensive kit or dive into a huge project after only soldering a few joints. Soldering components onto a PCB involves preparing the surface, placing the components, and then soldering the joint. Step 1: Surface Preparation:A clean surface is very important if you want a strong, low resistance solder joint. All surfaces to be soldered should be cleaned well. 3M Scotch Brite pads purchased from the home improvement, industrial supply store or automotive body shop are a good choice as they will quickly remove surface tarnish but will not abrade the PCB material. Note that you will wantindustrial pads and not the kitchen cleaning pads impregnated with cleaner/soap. If you have particularly tough deposits on your board, then a fine grade of steel wool is acceptable but be very cautious on boards with tight tolerances as the fine steel shavings can lodge between pads and in holes. Once you have cleaned the board down to shiny copper you can use a solvent such as acetone to clean any bits of the cleaning pad that may remain and to remove chemical contamination from the surface of the board. Methyl hydrate is another good solvent and a bit less stinky then acetone. Be aware that both these solvents can remove ink, so if your board is silk screened, test the chemicals first before hosing down the entire board. A few blasts with compressed air will dry out the board and remove any junk that may have built up in the holes. It also never hurts to give the component leads a quick wipe down as well, to remove glue or tarnish that may have built up over time. Step 2: Component Placement After the component and board have been cleaned, you are ready to place the components onto the board. Unless your circuit is simple and only contains a few components, you will probably not be placing all the components onto the board and soldering them at once. Most likely you will be soldering a few components at a time before turning the board over and placing more. In general it is best to start with the smallest and flattest components (resistors, ICs, signal diodes, etc.) and then work up to the larger components (capacitors, power transistors, transformers) after the small parts are done. This keeps the board relatively flat, making it more stable during soldering. It is also best to save sensitive components (MOSFETs, non-socketed ICs) until the end to lessen the chance of damaging them during assembly of the rest of the circuit. Bend the leads as necessary and insert the component through the proper holes on the board. To hold the part in place while you are soldering, you may want to bend the leads on the bottom of the board at a 45 degree angle. This works well for parts with long leads such as resistors. Components with short leads such as IC sockets can be held in place with a little masking tape or you can bend the leads down to clamp onto the PC board pads. Step 3: Apply HeatApply a very small amount of solder to the tip of the iron. This helps conduct the heat to the component and board, but it is not the solder that will make up the joint. To heat the joint you will lay the tip of the iron so that it rests against both the component lead and the board. It is critical that you heat the lead and the board, otherwise the solder will simply pool and refuse to stick to the unheated item. The small amount of solder you applied to the tip before heating the joint will help make contact between the board and the lead. It normally takes a second or two to get the joint hot enough to solder, but larger components and thicker pads/traces will absorb more heat and can increase this time. If you see the area under the pad starting to bubble, stop heating and remove the soldering iron because you are overheating the pad and it is in danger of lifting. Let it cool, then carefully heat it again for much less time. Step 4: Apply Solder To The JointOnce the component lead and solder pad has heated up, you are ready to apply solder. Touch the tip of the strand of solder to the component lead and solder pad, but not the tip of the iron. If everything is hot enough, the solder should flow freely around the lead and pad. You will see the flux melt liquify as well, bubble around the joint (this is part of its cleaning action), flow out and release smoke. Continue to add solder to the joint until the pad is completely coated and the solder forms a small mound with slightly concave sides. If it starts to ball up, you have used too much solder or the pad on the board is not hot enough. Once the surface of the pad is completely coated, you can stop adding solder and remove the soldering iron (in that order). Don't move the joint for a few seconds as the solder needs time to cool and resolidify. If you do move the joint, you will get what's called a "cold joint". This is recognized by it's characteristic dull and grainy appearance. Many cold joints can be fixed by reheating and applying a small amount of solder, then being allowed to cool without being disturbed. Step 5: Inspect The Joint and CleanupOnce the joint is made you should inspect it. Check for cold joints (described a little above and at length below), shorts with adjacent pads or poor flow. If the joint checks out, move on to the next. To trim the lead, use a small set of side cutters and cut at the top of the solder joint. After you have made all the solder joints, it is good practice to clean all the excess flux residue from the board. Some fluxes are hydroscopic (they absorb water) and can slowly absorb enough water to become slightly conductive. This can be a significant issue in a hostile environment such as an automotive application. Most fluxes will clean up easily using methyl hydrate and a rag but some will require a stronger solvent. Use the appropriate solvent to remove the flux, then blow the board dry with compressed air. Conformal CoatingsIf the printed circuit board you just soldered is going to be used in a hostile environment where it is subjected to moisture, dirt or chemicals, it may be a good idea to apply a conformal coating such as those made by MG Chemicals. These coatings are sprayed onto a PC board to seal it against hazards of the environment. Coatings are usually lacquer, silicone or urethane based and are applied to both sides of the board once it is fully assembled and tested. Cold Solder Joints A "cold solder joint" can occur when not enough heat is applied to the component, board, or both. Another common cause is a component moving before the solder has completely cooled and solidified. A cold joint is brittle and prone to physical failure. It is also generally a very high resistance connection which can effect the operation of the circuit or cause it to fail completely. Cold joints can often be recognized by a characteristic grainy, dull gray colour, but this is not always the case. A cold joint can often appear as a ball of solder sitting on the pad and surrounding the component lead. Additionally you may notice cracks in the solder and the joint may even move. Below is the shocking image of every example of a bad solder joint you will ever see. It appears that this FM transmitter kit was assembled using the technique of "apply solder to iron then drip onto joint". If your joints are looking like this, then stop and practice after rereading this page. Note that not a single of of these joints is acceptable, but amazingly, the circuit worked. Most cold solder joints can be easily fixed. Generally all that is required is to reheat the joint and apply a little more solder. If there is already too much solder on the joint, then the joint will have to be desoldered and then soldered again. This is done by first removing the old solder with a desoldering tool or simply by heating it up and flicking it off with the iron. Once the old solder is off, you can resolder the joint, making sure to heat it thoroughly and keep it still as it cools. Soldering A Wire Joint or Splice Another very common task is soldering a joint between two or more wires. Unlike soldering a PCB where the component is generally held only by the solder joint itself, a splice between wires must be physically strong before it is soldered. This usually means twisting the wires together properly and then soldering. Areas where you will see soldered wire joints are cable repairs and automotive wiring. In these cases, the joint must be insulated after soldering as well. Step 1: Strip The Wires To Be Joined, Slip On Insulation Heat shrink tubing is generally the preferred method to insulate a wire splice. There are two main types of heat shrink available; adhesive lined and non-adhesive lined. Non-adhesive tubing forms an insulating barrier only and thus is suitable for use only when the joint will not be subjected to moisture, chemicals or other harsh environments. Adhesive lined heatshrink tubing is lined with a heat sensitive adhesive that melts to seal the joint as the tubing is heated. Thus it forms a totally sealed joint and is used when a splice will be subjected to moisture or other elements which can effect the joint. As an example, you would use non-adhesive shrink tube when repairing a lamp cord, but you would use adhesive lined tubing when installing a car stereo. Use heat shrink tube with a diameter of approximately 1.5 times to two times the diameter of the wires to be joined. Cut the tube to length so that it will extend past each side of the joint by at least 0.5 inches and then slip it over one of the wire ends. Now strip about an inch of insulation from each wire end. If you are joining rather thick wire (thicker then 12 gauge) then you may want to strip a little more insulation to make twisting the wire easier. Step 2: Twist The Wires Together A strong mechanical connection is necessary before the wires are to be soldered so you must twist them together. The wires will be twisted in what is referred to as a "Lineman's joint" where the wires are joined in a straight line as opposed to twisting together in a "V" shape. Hold the stripped ends of the wires together in an "X" shape so their middles cross one another and then twist one of the wires along the other wires length. Then twist the other side to match. What you will end up with is a strong wire joint that is generally not much thicker then the wire itself. Step 3: Apply Heat Apply your heat to the bottom of the wire joint and use the thicker section of the soldering tip. If you heat up the top of the wire, you will get a lot of heat loss since heat rises. The thicker area of the solder iron tip will conduct more heat into the wire joint. It also helps to slightly wet the tip of the soldering iron to further aid in heat transfer. The thicker the wire joint, the more heat will be required. Be careful, because on thin wires with cheap insulation you can actually melt quite a bit of it off if you overheat the joint. Once the joint is hot enough (a good clue is when the solder you used to wet the tip of the iron flows into the joint) you can move on to applying solder. Once you have soldered a number of these joints you will be able to judge how much heat must be applied based on the thickness of the wire. Step 4: Apply Solder To The Joint With the joint fully heated, apply your solder to the joint just above the soldering tip. If it doesn't begin to melt immediately then you will need more heat. Once the solder begins to melt it will flow into the joint around the soldering iron. As the solder flows, move the tip along the wire joint while applying solder. The joint should start to suck in the solder as it is applied. If you find that the solder is pooling where it is touched to the joint yet it is not flowing inside, you will need more heat. Continue adding solder until the joint is fully covered. You should still be able to see the outlines of the individual wire strands but no copper of the wire should be visible. If you add too much solder to the point where the joint becomes a blob, you will end up with a brittle joint and the excess solder will need to be removed. Step 5: Clean The Flux If the wire joint is to be sealed or used in an area it will be exposed to moisture, the flux must be removed. Some fluxes will absorb moisture or other chemicals and become corrosive to the joint. While there are flux removal chemicals available most fluxes can be cleaned up using methyl hydrate available at any hardware store. Some are even water soluble. Step 6: Insulate The Joint Slide the heat shrink tubing so that it evenly covers the joint and apply heat to shrink it. Ideally, you will want a heat gun for this but a simple lighter is acceptable as long as you keep the flame moving to avoid burning the tubing or the wire. If you used adhesive lined heat shrink, you need to heat the tube until it has shrunk fully around the wire and a little of the adhesive has oozed out the ends. Non-lined heatshrink can be heated until it tightly covers the joint. You can overheat this stuff. If too much heat is used, then the insulation underneath will begin to break down and may form a bubble. A bubble could also be caused if you heat adhesive lined tubing to the point where it starts to boil. Tips and Tricks Soldering is something that needs to be practiced. These tips should help you become successful so you can stop practicing and get down to some serious building. 1) Use heatsinks. Heatsinks are a must for the leads of sensitive components such as ICs and transistors. If you don't have a clip on heatsink, then a pair of pliers is a good substitute. 2) Keep the iron tip clean. A clean iron tip means better heat conduction and a better joint. Use a wet sponge to clean the tip between joints. Keep the tip well tinned. 3) Double check joints. When assembling complicated circuits, it is good practice to check joints after soldering them. Use a magnifying glass to visually inspect the joint and a meter to check resistance. 4) Solder small parts first. Solder resistors, jumper leads, diodes and any other small parts before you solder larger parts like capacitors and transistors. This makes assembly much easier. 5) Install sensitive components last. Install CMOS ICs, MOSFETs and other static sensitive components last to avoid damaging them during assembly of other parts. 6) Use adequate ventilation. Most soldering fluxes should not be breathed in. Avoid breathing the smoke created and make sure that the area you are working in has adequate airflow to prevent buildup of noxious fumes. Soldering Safety While soldering is not generally a hazardous activity, there are a few things to keep in mind. The first and most obvious is that it involves high temperatures. Soldering irons are going to be 350F or higher, and will cause burns very quickly. Make sure to use a stand to support the iron and keep the cord away high traffic areas. Solder itself can drip, so it makes sense to avoid soldering over exposed body parts. Always work in a well lit area where you have space to lay parts out and move around. Avoid soldering with your face directly above the joint because fumes from the flux and other coatings will irritate your respiratory tract and eyes. Most solders contain lead, so you should avoid touching your face while working with solder and always wash your hands before eating. Share on Facebook Share on Twitter Share on Google Plus About Kiran Manchekar This is a short description in the author block about the author. You edit it by entering text in the "Biographical Info" field in the user admin panel. RELATED POSTS
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