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Hello all, Today I will do a costume tour of Tyrol, or Tirol. This famous region in the Austrian Alps has a distinct costume tradition. Tyrol as a political entity dates back to about 1140. It eventually became an integral part of Austria. After WWI, It was divided between the current State of Austria and Italy, as part of the general idea of the time that vanquished enemies must be punished. For the southernmost part of the old Duchy of Tyrol, which is called Trentino, this had some justification, because that region is overwhelmingly Italian in language and culture, but it was decided that the Italian border should be placed along the Continental divide, so that the Suedtirol, which is German speaking, was also given to Italy. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/County_of_Tyrol It is interesting that currently the two parts of Tyrol have formed a voluntary union which also includes Trentino. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tyrol%E2%80%93South_Tyrol%E2%80%93Trentino_Euroregion Here is a map of the area, showing the Euroregion including Trent. This article will cover the German speaking area, excluding Trentino, which while long associated with Tyrol, is actually distinct in culture. Thus I will be talking about North Tyrol, East Tyrol, and South Tyrol. There are a couple of Valleys in the southeastern part of this area where Ladin is spoken, but the Italians in the area were relocated there by Mussolini, and only reside in the larger cities. The geographic center of Tyrol would be the Brenner pass, and the region consists of the headlands of three different major rivers, the Inn, the Etsch [Adige], and the Drava. The Inn and the Drava eventually flow into the Danube, while the Etsch flows into the Po. The Tyroleans live on both sides of the continental divide, as mountain people often do, and find their land divided by flatlanders who think that the mountains make a good place to put a border. The Tyrol is bordered by Bavaria on the north, which speaks a similar dialect of Upper German, [Boarisch], Vorarlberg and Graubunden on the west, which both speak Allemanisch, Lombardy, Trentino and Veneto on the south, which speak various Italian dialects/languages along with some pockets of Ladin, and Carinthia and Salzburg on the east, which are also parts of Austria, and speak Upper German. Here is a good physical map of the area. The costumes are not distinguished by municipal district, but by the valleys. I will provide more detailed maps where helpful. This map above may be expanded if needed, or open google maps and scroll around as you read. Here is another map with place names that might be useful. The costume is broadly similar over this entire area, with details distinguishing the various valleys. The men wear long wool pants Hos, or leather knickers Lederhosen, a linen shirt Pfoat, a vest Weste, which is often red, Suspenders Kraxn, usually worn over the vest, a large belt Gurt, a jacket usually of loden Joppe, as well as stockings, shoes, and the hat typical of the valley. The men's jacket is one of the items which distinguish the differnent costumes. They are of various cuts and lengths, different colors, and have embroidery, ribbon, or applique, or not. They may be brown, green, blue, maroon, violet, red, or even yellow, depending on the valley. The women, of course, have more variety, there usually being a formal costume, a festive costume, a winter costume, and an everyday work costume. I will focus on the summer festive costume for comparisons here. This includes a chemise Hemdl, a bodice Mieder, which often is laced closed over a plastron Brustlatz, a skirt Kittel, an apron Schurz, and often a jacket Joppe or Tschoap. The details of the trim and embroidery on the bodice are what mostly define the various costumes today. Both sexes often wear a black silk neck scarf Flor. Whereas in most places folk costumes are called Tracht, in this area they are more likely to be called G'wand, reflecting the local dialect. What is retained today in Tyrol is three historical layers of Gewand. The old 'miedertracht', which basically dates from the Baroque, This is seldom worn, but is seen in illustrations and museums.This often has skirts cut so as to exaggerate the width of the hips, sometimes has a short waist, and often has stockings worn in rolls so as to exaggerate the thickness of the legs. The bodice is stiff, and has a wide opening, with a plastron. Here is one example from the Innsbruck area. the 'spencertracht', which has its origins in the Biedermeier, which includes the dark leg of mutton sleeves. This seems to have been spread by the Pietism of the 19th cent. which valued simplicity, dark colors and modesty. Where this coexists with the bodice costume it is considered to be more formal. Here is an example from the Lower Inntal. and the Erneuerter tracht, which is a modernization of the miedertracht, done in the 1930's. The lines have been modified for practicality and to please modern notions of beauty. The waist has been returned to the natural waist and the plastron has been narrowed. The extremely thick hips and legs are no longer part of the costume. Here is an example of a renovated gewand from Innsbruck as worn today. Dirndls are a seperate thing. They are modern clothing which developed from the old everyday work costumes, and keep more or less the traditional cut. The colors, materials and details vary according to the desire of the wearer. They are worn, but are not considered to be true folk costumes. Nord Tirol I will proceed more or less from east to west. The east half is generally referred to as the Unterland [lowlands] and the western half as the Oberland [highlands]. Leukental or Großachental This valley runs from the Thurn pass on the border with Salzburg state north through Kitzbuhel and St. Johann to the German border, following the Ache river. This is a minor river which does not connect with the Inn valley. The images show the formal costume, kassettl, with the long sleeves as well as the festive costume with the bodice. This is the costume which is featured at the head of the article. Lower Inntal This is often considered to extend from the German border up to about Jenbach. The first image shows the formal costume of this area which has gradually become popular further up the valley and into some of the side valleys for weddings and other formal occasions. This costume is called 'Kassettl'. Here is a somewhat less formal version. The bodice costume is also found here Just for example, here is the everyday costume from this area. These everyday summer costumes are what gave rise to the dirndl in the 20th century. Just to give a more complete picture, here is the winter costume for this area. Here are some photos. Here is a video of an interview with a woman who specializes in sewing the Kassettl Gwand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEpUTLlsNgo Brixental and Wildschönau The Brixental joins the Inn valley near Wörgl and extends to the south and east towards Kitzbühel. Wildschönau is a side valley which extends to the west from Brixental. Alpbachtal This valley joins the Inn at Brixlegg, and runs to the southeast. The women's bodice is embroidered on both the front and the back. Zillertal This is a large valley which lies to the south of the Inn and joins the Inntal at Jenbach. Their own version of the formal costume is still commonly worn. Here we see that there is a particular hat which is a signature of this valley. This is very common. The men's costume has a red vest which closes under the arm. The front of the vest has one to three rows of gallon around the neck opening. Kraxn are not worn. The Joppe is light gray. Here is a video of a Riflemen's group from Zillertal on parade. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocoUP3R_H3c Here is a video of a musical group, The Young Zillertalers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5Dl13fPTYw Achental This is a small side valley which lies north of the Inntal, and also joins the Inn at Jenbach. Here is an old print of this costume. Notice the similarities and the differences. Upper LowerInntal This Gwand is found roughly from Jenbach up to the town of Hall. Wipptal The Wipptal is a large valley which joins the Inn at Innsbruck. It extends south to the Brenner pass, and beyond, into South Tyrol, where at some point it becomes the upper Eisacktal. Again, note the distinctive hat. The loden joppe is burgundy or violet colored in this valley. In the first image, the woman is wearing a formal jacket, Schalk. Sterzing and Pfitscher Tal This town is in South Tyrol, south of the Brenner Pass, in what the Tyroleans consider to be the upper Wipptal. The Pfitscher Tal is a side valley which extends to the northeast from Sterzing [Vipiteno]. Stubaital This is a side valley off the lower Wipptal at Schönberg which extends to the southwest. It lies completely within North Tyrol. Innsbruck and Lower UpperInntal This costume is found from around Innsbruck up the valley to Imst. Ötztal This is a side valley of the Inn, which extends to the south from just below Imst, west of Stubaital. The men's joppe is distinguished by being embroidered on the front below the neck and on the cuffs, and no vest is worn. The women's bodice has a black upper part to the brustlatz with embroidery in a horizontal band. Pitztal This is the next side valley off the Inn as we head upstream. It joins the Inn valley at Arzl and extends to the south parallel to the Ötztal. Leutaschtal, Seefeld, Scharnitz This area lies north of the Inn valley about halfway between Innsbruck and Imst, where the Inn valley makes a bend and starts to head southwest, near the town of Telfs. The Leutasch valley runs north into Bavaria. Lechtal This river valley lies in northwestern Tyrol. The source of the river is in Vorarlberg, and flows through a corner of Tyrol before travelling north through western Bavaria. It does not connect with the Inn. The costume shows influence from both of these neighboring regions. Here is a plate showing the old costume, which seems to have been revived. Here are some images of the new costume, from the 1930's. Tannheim Tal This is a side valley of the Lech, The head of which is in the extreme northwest corner of Tyrol, and joins the Lech at a point not far from the German border. Notice the embroidered linen Goller, which is more typical of Switzerland, and the Radhaube, the wheeled headress which is common around the Bodensee, but not found anywhere else in Tyrol. Reutte This town is located on the lower Lech river, between the Tannheim Tal and the German border. Stanzer Tal At Landeck, the Inn valley makes an S curve to the south and heads to the southwest into Graubunden. The Stanzer Tal extends directly west of Landeck into Vorarlberg. This area marks the westernmost extension of North Tyrol. Paznaun Tal This valley meets the Stanzer Tal not far from its opening at Landeck, and extends to the southwest. Upper UpperInntal This includes the Inntal from just above Imst to the Swiss border. In the westernmost part of North Tyrol, there is a low pass which leads from the Upper Inn valley, just east of the Swiss border, south into South Tyrol Vintschgau This lies just south of the upper Inntal, and they are connected by a low pass. It is the valley of the upper Etsch River. The head of the valley is in the extreme northwest corner of South Tyrol. It heads south, and then east, and is considered to end in the vicinity of the city of Meran, where the river makes a sharp turn for the south. The men's costume varies; in the west, in Upper Vintschgau, it resembles that of the Upper Inntal. In the east, in lower Vintschgau, it resembles more the costume of Meran. This gwand is from Graun, in the extreme upper part of the valley. Meran and vicinity The city of Meran lies at the point where the Etsch takes a sharp turn and heads south. There is a bodice costume miedergwand which is worn here. The Burggrafenamt, the formal costume is often worn here as well, see below. Burggrafenamt This refers to the mid Etsch valley, basically between the cities of Meran and Bozen. The formal costume of this area is very popular for weddings over a wider area. This tracht shows definite city influence. This costume is also worn in Meran. The wide red lapels are a feature of this costume. Passeiertal This is a valley which opens near Meran, and heads north. Ultental This is a valley which opens on the Etsch river valley a short distance south of Meran and heads to the southwest. It lies to the south of Vintschgau. One unique characteristic is that sometimes the bun is covered with a hair net that has lace edging. Bozen and vicinity This is a large city which lies at the confluence of the Etsch and the Eisack rivers. Überetsch-Unterland This is the region which lies south of the city of Bozen, and forms a triangular extension in the south center of South Tyrol. The name means 'The Upper Etsch Lowland'. Of course, this is Tyrol, and 'lowland' is relative. The bodice is light green with pale red silk borders, and black velvet ribbon which is hand embroidered in a floral pattern. The brustlatz also has floral embroidery. Sarntal This is a valley which opens near the city of Bozen and heads north, between the two major river valleys of the Etsch and the Eisack. It is reached by passing through a narrow gorge, and so is relatively isolated. There are two costume traditions in this valley. The old one is very rich and colorful, and resembles the gwand which is found further east, in Eisacktal and Pustertal. In about 1850 the 'new costume' was introduced, and by the early 20th cent completely replaced the old, although most people still have them in their attics. There is now a movement to revive this costume. In the old costume unmarried men wore red jackets, and married men wore brown or black jackets. The 'new costume' is simple, dark, and sober, in keeping with the Pietistic ideals of the 19th cent. It is still a living tradition in the Sarntal. The new costume features black leather kraxn with feather embroidery. Ritten This is a plateau which lies between the Sarntal and the Eisacktal, to the northeast of the city of Bozen, and southeast of the Sarntal. The costume resembles that of the Eisacktal. Eggental This is a valley which extends to the southeast from the Eisack valley and opens just north of the city of Bozen. The men wear jackets of a light moss green which can even shade into yellow. The jacket may be short or long, and is bordered in a dark green. Kastelruth & Groedner Tal Kastelruth lies east of the Eisack valley, and leads east to the Groedner Tal, or Val Gardena, where the people speak Ladin. The costume is similar, but the Ladin people add extra items to the costume, like the festive crown, separate linen collar and metal belt for the girls. The German speaking people of Kastelruth wear a more sober form of the same costume. Mittel Eisacktal This is the mid Eisack river valley around Klausener, Villanders and Latzfons. The men's jacket of Latzfons is distinguished by embroidery on the front. Brixen This lies in the Eisacktal where it is joined by the Pustertal. Above this, the high Eisacktall is considered to be the upper Wipptal. Pustertal The Pustertal with its side valleys takes up the eastern part of South Tyrol. The large side valley on the south is Val Badia, which borders Val Gardena, and is also inhabited by Ladin speakers. The Ladin influence is also visible in this costume. You will notice that in the eastern part of this valley, another river rises and flows east. This is the Drava, which flows through East Tyrol, and eventually into Croatia. Pustertal-East Tyrol Transitional area This costume is found from Innichen east into East Tyrol by Lienz in the Drava river valley. This area also has its version of the new, or formal costume, which in this area is called Bäuerisches Gwand for the women, and Osttiroler Anzug for the men. This is similar to other names for this costume around Tyrol, and comes from the word for farmer, and not from Bavaria. East Tyrol Villgratental is a side valley which lies north of the Drava just east of the border of South Tyrol with East Tyrol. Lienz This is the main city of East Tyrol, and is found on the Drava river near the eastern edge of Tyrol Iseltal The Isel valley heads north from the city of Lienz. Defereggental This is a side valley of the Isel, and runs to the west, parallel to and north of the Drava. The women's bodice is distinguished by horizontal rows of floral embroidery on the brustlatz. Thus we come to the end of Tyrol. I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. The culture of Tyrol is rich and fascinating. I hope that you felt that it was worth devoting such a long article to it. Here is a short video about sewing Tyrolean tracht and dirndls. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlZ2onXGPRw Roman K [email protected] Source Material: Nina Gockerell & Helene Kostenzer, 'Alte Trachten aus Oberbayern & Tirol, Munich, 1976 Albert Kretschmer, 'Das Grosse Buch der Volkstrachten', Basel,1977 reprint of 1887 original Gertrud Pesendorfer & Grete Karasek,'Tirol : Neue Deutsche Bauerntrachten', Munich, 1938 Gertrud Pesendorfer, 'Lebendige Tracht in Tirol', Innsbruck, 1966 Uta Radakoich, 'Costumi Tradizionali dell'Alto Adige/Suedtirol', Trent, 2009 Maria Rehm, 'Oesterreichs Trachtenbuechlein', Innsbruck, 1981 Josef Ringler, 'Tiroler Trachten', Innsbruck, 1961 Petra Streng, 'Echt Tirol Trachten', Innsbruck, 2006 Hans Von Hammerstein, 'Trachten der Alpenlander', Vienna, 1937 'Die Sarner Tracht: Bairisch gien', Bozen, 2011

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Hello all, Today I am going to focus on the Miesbach costume. This costume has become a symbol of Bavaria, of Munich, and in fact, of Germany as a whole. It is actually from south central Upper Bavaria, the area known as the Tölz-Miesbach Upland, between the Inn River in the east, the Ammer River in the west, the Austrian border on the south, and the environs of Munich in the north, covering the Landskreise of Toelz, Miesbach, and the western half of Rosenheim. However, it is also strongly identified with Munich, and is widely worn in all of Bavaria and beyond, and often considered to be more than a regional costume. This is not a living costume region in the historical sense, as are, for example, Ochsenfurt or Schaumburg. The modern Miesbach costume was codified by the local Trachtenvereine in Miesbach starting in 1900 or so, and then other Costume groups in the region joined in to help develop it, up to the 1950's, and indeed the various local groups continue to refine it today. http://www.trachtenvereinmiesbach.de/ This is not to say that it was invented out of nothing at that time, it rose out of a desire to reclaim the clothing heritage of the area, but also to modernize it for a new era. There was much source material available, and so this must count as one of the most successful rebirths of a regional costume, as people began to value it as part of their heritage, rather than to disparage it as the outmoded clothing of country bumpkins. This is one of the few folk costumes which one can buy off the rack in department stores. Here is an image painted by Albert Kretschmer in the latter mid 1800's of the costume as it was worn at that time. We do not know the exact year that it was painted, but it was published somewhere between 1877 and 1890. There is continuity and yet many differences of detail when compared to the modern Tracht.  The photo at the head of the article shows some members of the German American Society here in Omaha who were invited to take part in the Oktoberfest activities in Munich, which few groups outside of Germany have done under official auspices. Here is another photo of that group.. There are several versions of this costume, appropriate for occasions of varying solemnity. The version pictured above is perhaps a medium level, appropriate for Sunday services or a festival. I will be presenting the various pieces with the help of my friends Orest and Sara. also members of the Omaha German American Club who agreed to pose for a series of photographs. They wear the variant of the Tracht which is used in Wolfratshausen, in the northwestern corner of this costume area. Festtracht or Deandl This is the Gwand with Mieder and Weisswasch. Originally the foundation garment was a linen chemise, of which only the collar and cuffs were visible in this version of the costume. In the course of the development of this costume in the 20th cent. The chemise was cut in two, forming a petticoat and blouse, and then the blouse was reduced to a dickey, called Schmiesl [Chemise-l, little chemise]. The only part of this which shows is the lace around the color and the linen around it. The ties on the front corners pass through the loops on the back corners, and then are secured around the body, similar to the Dutch kraplap. Here is a closeup when fully dressed. The bottom half of the chemise is now the petticoat, which today is worn over bloomers. As in many places, more than one petticoat, and even an underskirt may be worn. The Spenser jacket was extremely common in central Western Europe at this time, but here in this costume it has migrated inside the bodice, and is worn just over the chemise, and later the Schmiesl. In the print by Kretschmer above, you can see that it has the typical leg of mutton sleeves which are smocked on the upper arm. Today this garment is called Janker, and the sleeves have been modified; the upper smocked portion is sewn separately, and set into the armhole with a capped sleeve. The lower portion is quite narrow and there is a seam between the two. This results in the sleeve lying smoothly and closely along the arms when lowered, but also results in a significant lack of mobility. The Janker is always made of the same material as the top skirt, today usually a solid red, green, or blue, but in the past, as we see from Kretschmer, it was also made of flowered material. Here are front and back views. The modern Janker is quite short, not reaching the waist, which is why I do not have a photo of Sara wearing it without the bodice over it. Over the Janker is worn the Mieder, the bodice. This is generally made of black satin, is boned and stiffened with quilting and cording in many subtle patterns. It closes at the side front with chains and hooks. On the sides are two rows of silver hooks. A chain is threaded through these open hooks back and forth, the pin on the leading end being tucked in behind the threaded chain. Generally the chain is quite long, and is often looped over several pins inserted into the top front of the bodice. Sometimes it is even looped around the pins which fasten the shoulder shawl and loops right around the shoulders. Usually flowers and asparagus fern are inserted into the top of the bodice. If you look closely at this image, you can see the opening just to the right of the first rose. There is an ornamental hook in the center back, over which is hung a loop attached to the skirt. There are also hooks and eyes around the waist which help support the skirt. The Mieder has lappets which are worn under the skirt. The straps over the shoulders meet in the center back, and are pinned near the front. We see here that Sara has chosen to wear the Schmiesl over the Janker. Click on any of these images to see more detail. This is a link to an article in which a woman describes the process of sewing her own Mieder. http://www.wertachtaler.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=67:miedernaehen&catid=4:aktuelles&Itemid=3 The skirt is of wool, has deep folks at the waist, and generally has dark ribbons sewn on above the hem. The reason that this version of the costume is called 'mit Weisswasch', is that it has a linen apron and shoulder kerchief. These are generally coupled with a hem length somewhere around mid calf. Bands of lace are inserted into both. In this case, crotchet lace was used, but other types of lace, especially bobbin lace, may also be used. The apron is usually tied at the rear, if linen, and at the side if silk, but Kretschmer shows it being tied in front in his time. I do not know if there is any significance to this. The triangular shoulder kerchief, Halstuch, is folded, the folds pinned, and then secured to the bodice with two pins in front, and one or three in back, the folds being designed to help it fit smoothly and to show off the lace. ` White or blue stockings are worn with this costume, and black leather shoes, earlier high button shoes, and today more likely lower ones 'halbschuhe', with straps. The hair is put up in a bun at the back of the head and fixed in place with filligree silver hair pins. A choker with several chains and a stone in the clasp is worn around the neck. Earrings are worn. A rather low felt hat is worn, with a single row of matching cording, but having a feather or gamsbart pinned to it. A Gamsbart is a tuft of long hairs from the Chamois. Small pins from contests or travels may also be pinned to the hat. You will note that the hat is much shorter than the one pictured in Kretschmer. Often a short chain is attached to the bottom two hooks on the Mieder, with various charms hanging from it, Old coins, bird's feet, animal horns, etc. In some cases, they are also attached to the lacing chain. I will quickly introduce some of the other versions of the costume. Gewand with Mieder and Seidenwasch' This is very similar to the above costume. It is more for married women but is also worn by unmarried girls for more formal occasions, such as high Church holidays. It is distinguished by a longer hemline, around ankle length, silk apron and shoulder kerchief, and a hat which has gold cording and tassels. Kirchagwand This is worn to Church, in some places most Sundays, in others only on the more important Feast Days. It is made of silk in black or some other dark color. The skirt is longer, almost floor length, there is no shoulder shawl or bodice, The upper body being covered by a jacket with a peplum. The hat is also plain but rich. This is generally worn only by married and older women. Schalk This is the most formal version of this costume, and many country women wear it for their weddings. It is made of black silk, the collar and back edge of the jacket are ornamented with ruched black silk ribbon and lace. The upper sleeves are smocked, and there is lace on the cuffs. The skirt is floor length. The Schmiesl is worn underneath, along with a much folded fichu which is pinned into place. It fastens down the front with silver filligree buttons. A less formal version than the Gewand with Mieder and Weisswasch is sometimes known as 'Halbtracht', or 'half' costume. It replaces the Schmiesl and Janker with a short sleeved blouse. This is often worn by younger girls, and many groups prefer to use it for dancing, as it is cooler and provides more freedom of movement. One can make this even more informal by replacing the formal boned bodice with a soft bodice which buttons in front. This is particularly suited for dancing. You can see this type of bodice in the Kretschmer print being worn by the older woman in the boat. This has almost become a dirndl, which is the everyday costume.. There are a couple more versions, but I will end the article here. I will cover the men's costume in another posting. This costume is part of a larger costume complex native to the mountains of southern Upper Bavaria. For context, here are some images of other Upper Bavarian costumes. http://www.isargau.de/cms/pages/sachausschuesse/trachtenpflege-und-trachtenforschung/gebirgstracht.php Werdenfelser Isarwinkler Inntaler Berchtesgaden Here are some images of costumes which are of this complex but not Miesbach. The Miesbach costume never has fringes on the shoulder shawl. I am not certain which of the above they represent. I believe that all of the following images are of the Miesbach costume. Please feel free to correct me. I'm not sure where the man in this image is from. A bride and groom. Thank you for reading, I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. Roman K. [email protected] Source Material: http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miesbacher_Tracht Many thanks to Orest and Sara and the Omaha German American Club. Toni Demmelmeier and Torsten Gebhard, 'Trachten in Bayern, heft 1, Miesbach', Munich, 1981 Albert Kretschmer, 'Das Grosse Buch der Volkstrachten',

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Hello all, Today I am going to focus on the Miesbach costume. This costume has become a symbol of Bavaria, of Munich, and in fact, of Germany as a whole. It is actually from south central Upper Bavaria, the area known as the Tölz-Miesbach Upland, between the Inn River in the east, the Ammer River in the west, the Austrian border on the south, and the environs of Munich in the north, covering the Landskreise of Toelz, Miesbach, and the western half of Rosenheim. However, it is also strongly identified with Munich, and is widely worn in all of Bavaria and beyond, and often considered to be more than a regional costume. This is not a living costume region in the historical sense, as are, for example, Ochsenfurt or Schaumburg. The modern Miesbach costume was codified by the local Trachtenvereine in Miesbach starting in 1900 or so, and then other Costume groups in the region joined in to help develop it, up to the 1950's, and indeed the various local groups continue to refine it today. http://www.trachtenvereinmiesbach.de/ This is not to say that it was invented out of nothing at that time, it rose out of a desire to reclaim the clothing heritage of the area, but also to modernize it for a new era. There was much source material available, and so this must count as one of the most successful rebirths of a regional costume, as people began to value it as part of their heritage, rather than to disparage it as the outmoded clothing of country bumpkins. This is one of the few folk costumes which one can buy off the rack in department stores. Here is an image painted by Albert Kretschmer in the latter mid 1800's of the costume as it was worn at that time. We do not know the exact year that it was painted, but it was published somewhere between 1877 and 1890. There is continuity and yet many differences of detail when compared to the modern Tracht.  The photo at the head of the article shows some members of the German American Society here in Omaha who were invited to take part in the Oktoberfest activities in Munich, which few groups outside of Germany have done under official auspices. Here is another photo of that group.. There are several versions of this costume, appropriate for occasions of varying solemnity. The version pictured above is perhaps a medium level, appropriate for Sunday services or a festival. I will be presenting the various pieces with the help of my friends Orest and Sara. also members of the Omaha German American Club who agreed to pose for a series of photographs. They wear the variant of the Tracht which is used in Wolfratshausen, in the northwestern corner of this costume area. Festtracht or Deandl This is the Gwand with Mieder and Weisswasch. Originally the foundation garment was a linen chemise, of which only the collar and cuffs were visible in this version of the costume. In the course of the development of this costume in the 20th cent. The chemise was cut in two, forming a petticoat and blouse, and then the blouse was reduced to a dickey, called Schmiesl [Chemise-l, little chemise]. The only part of this which shows is the lace around the color and the linen around it. The ties on the front corners pass through the loops on the back corners, and then are secured around the body, similar to the Dutch kraplap. Here is a closeup when fully dressed. The bottom half of the chemise is now the petticoat, which today is worn over bloomers. As in many places, more than one petticoat, and even an underskirt may be worn. The Spenser jacket was extremely common in central Western Europe at this time, but here in this costume it has migrated inside the bodice, and is worn just over the chemise, and later the Schmiesl. In the print by Kretschmer above, you can see that it has the typical leg of mutton sleeves which are smocked on the upper arm. Today this garment is called Janker, and the sleeves have been modified; the upper smocked portion is sewn separately, and set into the armhole with a capped sleeve. The lower portion is quite narrow and there is a seam between the two. This results in the sleeve lying smoothly and closely along the arms when lowered, but also results in a significant lack of mobility. The Janker is always made of the same material as the top skirt, today usually a solid red, green, or blue, but in the past, as we see from Kretschmer, it was also made of flowered material. Here are front and back views. The modern Janker is quite short, not reaching the waist, which is why I do not have a photo of Sara wearing it without the bodice over it. Over the Janker is worn the Mieder, the bodice. This is generally made of black satin, is boned and stiffened with quilting and cording in many subtle patterns. It closes at the side front with chains and hooks. On the sides are two rows of silver hooks. A chain is threaded through these open hooks back and forth, the pin on the leading end being tucked in behind the threaded chain. Generally the chain is quite long, and is often looped over several pins inserted into the top front of the bodice. Sometimes it is even looped around the pins which fasten the shoulder shawl and loops right around the shoulders. Usually flowers and asparagus fern are inserted into the top of the bodice. If you look closely at this image, you can see the opening just to the right of the first rose. There is an ornamental hook in the center back, over which is hung a loop attached to the skirt. There are also hooks and eyes around the waist which help support the skirt. The Mieder has lappets which are worn under the skirt. The straps over the shoulders meet in the center back, and are pinned near the front. We see here that Sara has chosen to wear the Schmiesl over the Janker. Click on any of these images to see more detail. This is a link to an article in which a woman describes the process of sewing her own Mieder. http://www.wertachtaler.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=67:miedernaehen&catid=4:aktuelles&Itemid=3 The skirt is of wool, has deep folks at the waist, and generally has dark ribbons sewn on above the hem. The reason that this version of the costume is called 'mit Weisswasch', is that it has a linen apron and shoulder kerchief. These are generally coupled with a hem length somewhere around mid calf. Bands of lace are inserted into both. In this case, crotchet lace was used, but other types of lace, especially bobbin lace, may also be used. The apron is usually tied at the rear, if linen, and at the side if silk, but Kretschmer shows it being tied in front in his time. I do not know if there is any significance to this. The triangular shoulder kerchief, Halstuch, is folded, the folds pinned, and then secured to the bodice with two pins in front, and one or three in back, the folds being designed to help it fit smoothly and to show off the lace. ` White or blue stockings are worn with this costume, and black leather shoes, earlier high button shoes, and today more likely lower ones 'halbschuhe', with straps. The hair is put up in a bun at the back of the head and fixed in place with filligree silver hair pins. A choker with several chains and a stone in the clasp is worn around the neck. Earrings are worn. A rather low felt hat is worn, with a single row of matching cording, but having a feather or gamsbart pinned to it. A Gamsbart is a tuft of long hairs from the Chamois. Small pins from contests or travels may also be pinned to the hat. You will note that the hat is much shorter than the one pictured in Kretschmer. Often a short chain is attached to the bottom two hooks on the Mieder, with various charms hanging from it, Old coins, bird's feet, animal horns, etc. In some cases, they are also attached to the lacing chain. I will quickly introduce some of the other versions of the costume. Gewand with Mieder and Seidenwasch' This is very similar to the above costume. It is more for married women but is also worn by unmarried girls for more formal occasions, such as high Church holidays. It is distinguished by a longer hemline, around ankle length, silk apron and shoulder kerchief, and a hat which has gold cording and tassels. Kirchagwand This is worn to Church, in some places most Sundays, in others only on the more important Feast Days. It is made of silk in black or some other dark color. The skirt is longer, almost floor length, there is no shoulder shawl or bodice, The upper body being covered by a jacket with a peplum. The hat is also plain but rich. This is generally worn only by married and older women. Schalk This is the most formal version of this costume, and many country women wear it for their weddings. It is made of black silk, the collar and back edge of the jacket are ornamented with ruched black silk ribbon and lace. The upper sleeves are smocked, and there is lace on the cuffs. The skirt is floor length. The Schmiesl is worn underneath, along with a much folded fichu which is pinned into place. It fastens down the front with silver filligree buttons. A less formal version than the Gewand with Mieder and Weisswasch is sometimes known as 'Halbtracht', or 'half' costume. It replaces the Schmiesl and Janker with a short sleeved blouse. This is often worn by younger girls, and many groups prefer to use it for dancing, as it is cooler and provides more freedom of movement. One can make this even more informal by replacing the formal boned bodice with a soft bodice which buttons in front. This is particularly suited for dancing. You can see this type of bodice in the Kretschmer print being worn by the older woman in the boat. This has almost become a dirndl, which is the everyday costume.. There are a couple more versions, but I will end the article here. I will cover the men's costume in another posting. This costume is part of a larger costume complex native to the mountains of southern Upper Bavaria. For context, here are some images of other Upper Bavarian costumes. http://www.isargau.de/cms/pages/sachausschuesse/trachtenpflege-und-trachtenforschung/gebirgstracht.php Werdenfelser Isarwinkler Inntaler Berchtesgaden Here are some images of costumes which are of this complex but not Miesbach. The Miesbach costume never has fringes on the shoulder shawl. I am not certain which of the above they represent. I believe that all of the following images are of the Miesbach costume. Please feel free to correct me. I'm not sure where the man in this image is from. A bride and groom. Thank you for reading, I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. Roman K. [email protected] Source Material: http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miesbacher_Tracht Many thanks to Orest and Sara and the Omaha German American Club. Toni Demmelmeier and Torsten Gebhard, 'Trachten in Bayern, heft 1, Miesbach', Munich, 1981 Albert Kretschmer, 'Das Grosse Buch der Volkstrachten',

Hello all, Today I will do a costume tour of Tyrol, or Tirol. This famous region in the Austrian Alps has a distinct costume tradition. Tyrol as a political entity dates back to about 1140. It eventually became an integral part of Austria. After WWI, It was divided between the current State of Austria and Italy, as part of the general idea of the time that vanquished enemies must be punished. For the southernmost part of the old Duchy of Tyrol, which is called Trentino, this had some justification, because that region is overwhelmingly Italian in language and culture, but it was decided that the Italian border should be placed along the Continental divide, so that the Suedtirol, which is German speaking, was also given to Italy. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/County_of_Tyrol It is interesting that currently the two parts of Tyrol have formed a voluntary union which also includes Trentino. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tyrol%E2%80%93South_Tyrol%E2%80%93Trentino_Euroregion Here is a map of the area, showing the Euroregion including Trent. This article will cover the German speaking area, excluding Trentino, which while long associated with Tyrol, is actually distinct in culture. Thus I will be talking about North Tyrol, East Tyrol, and South Tyrol. There are a couple of Valleys in the southeastern part of this area where Ladin is spoken, but the Italians in the area were relocated there by Mussolini, and only reside in the larger cities. The geographic center of Tyrol would be the Brenner pass, and the region consists of the headlands of three different major rivers, the Inn, the Etsch [Adige], and the Drava. The Inn and the Drava eventually flow into the Danube, while the Etsch flows into the Po. The Tyroleans live on both sides of the continental divide, as mountain people often do, and find their land divided by flatlanders who think that the mountains make a good place to put a border. The Tyrol is bordered by Bavaria on the north, which speaks a similar dialect of Upper German, [Boarisch], Vorarlberg and Graubunden on the west, which both speak Allemanisch, Lombardy, Trentino and Veneto on the south, which speak various Italian dialects/languages along with some pockets of Ladin, and Carinthia and Salzburg on the east, which are also parts of Austria, and speak Upper German. Here is a good physical map of the area. The costumes are not distinguished by municipal district, but by the valleys. I will provide more detailed maps where helpful. This map above may be expanded if needed, or open google maps and scroll around as you read. Here is another map with place names that might be useful. The costume is broadly similar over this entire area, with details distinguishing the various valleys. The men wear long wool pants Hos, or leather knickers Lederhosen, a linen shirt Pfoat, a vest Weste, which is often red, Suspenders Kraxn, usually worn over the vest, a large belt Gurt, a jacket usually of loden Joppe, as well as stockings, shoes, and the hat typical of the valley. The men's jacket is one of the items which distinguish the differnent costumes. They are of various cuts and lengths, different colors, and have embroidery, ribbon, or applique, or not. They may be brown, green, blue, maroon, violet, red, or even yellow, depending on the valley. The women, of course, have more variety, there usually being a formal costume, a festive costume, a winter costume, and an everyday work costume. I will focus on the summer festive costume for comparisons here. This includes a chemise Hemdl, a bodice Mieder, which often is laced closed over a plastron Brustlatz, a skirt Kittel, an apron Schurz, and often a jacket Joppe or Tschoap. The details of the trim and embroidery on the bodice are what mostly define the various costumes today. Both sexes often wear a black silk neck scarf Flor. Whereas in most places folk costumes are called Tracht, in this area they are more likely to be called G'wand, reflecting the local dialect. What is retained today in Tyrol is three historical layers of Gewand. The old 'miedertracht', which basically dates from the Baroque, This is seldom worn, but is seen in illustrations and museums.This often has skirts cut so as to exaggerate the width of the hips, sometimes has a short waist, and often has stockings worn in rolls so as to exaggerate the thickness of the legs. The bodice is stiff, and has a wide opening, with a plastron. Here is one example from the Innsbruck area. the 'spencertracht', which has its origins in the Biedermeier, which includes the dark leg of mutton sleeves. This seems to have been spread by the Pietism of the 19th cent. which valued simplicity, dark colors and modesty. Where this coexists with the bodice costume it is considered to be more formal. Here is an example from the Lower Inntal. and the Erneuerter tracht, which is a modernization of the miedertracht, done in the 1930's. The lines have been modified for practicality and to please modern notions of beauty. The waist has been returned to the natural waist and the plastron has been narrowed. The extremely thick hips and legs are no longer part of the costume. Here is an example of a renovated gewand from Innsbruck as worn today. Dirndls are a seperate thing. They are modern clothing which developed from the old everyday work costumes, and keep more or less the traditional cut. The colors, materials and details vary according to the desire of the wearer. They are worn, but are not considered to be true folk costumes. Nord Tirol I will proceed more or less from east to west. The east half is generally referred to as the Unterland [lowlands] and the western half as the Oberland [highlands]. Leukental or Großachental This valley runs from the Thurn pass on the border with Salzburg state north through Kitzbuhel and St. Johann to the German border, following the Ache river. This is a minor river which does not connect with the Inn valley. The images show the formal costume, kassettl, with the long sleeves as well as the festive costume with the bodice. This is the costume which is featured at the head of the article. Lower Inntal This is often considered to extend from the German border up to about Jenbach. The first image shows the formal costume of this area which has gradually become popular further up the valley and into some of the side valleys for weddings and other formal occasions. This costume is called 'Kassettl'. Here is a somewhat less formal version. The bodice costume is also found here Just for example, here is the everyday costume from this area. These everyday summer costumes are what gave rise to the dirndl in the 20th century. Just to give a more complete picture, here is the winter costume for this area. Here are some photos. Here is a video of an interview with a woman who specializes in sewing the Kassettl Gwand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEpUTLlsNgo Brixental and Wildschönau The Brixental joins the Inn valley near Wörgl and extends to the south and east towards Kitzbühel. Wildschönau is a side valley which extends to the west from Brixental. Alpbachtal This valley joins the Inn at Brixlegg, and runs to the southeast. The women's bodice is embroidered on both the front and the back. Zillertal This is a large valley which lies to the south of the Inn and joins the Inntal at Jenbach. Their own version of the formal costume is still commonly worn. Here we see that there is a particular hat which is a signature of this valley. This is very common. The men's costume has a red vest which closes under the arm. The front of the vest has one to three rows of gallon around the neck opening. Kraxn are not worn. The Joppe is light gray. Here is a video of a Riflemen's group from Zillertal on parade. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocoUP3R_H3c Here is a video of a musical group, The Young Zillertalers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5Dl13fPTYw Achental This is a small side valley which lies north of the Inntal, and also joins the Inn at Jenbach. Here is an old print of this costume. Notice the similarities and the differences. Upper LowerInntal This Gwand is found roughly from Jenbach up to the town of Hall. Wipptal The Wipptal is a large valley which joins the Inn at Innsbruck. It extends south to the Brenner pass, and beyond, into South Tyrol, where at some point it becomes the upper Eisacktal. Again, note the distinctive hat. The loden joppe is burgundy or violet colored in this valley. In the first image, the woman is wearing a formal jacket, Schalk. Sterzing and Pfitscher Tal This town is in South Tyrol, south of the Brenner Pass, in what the Tyroleans consider to be the upper Wipptal. The Pfitscher Tal is a side valley which extends to the northeast from Sterzing [Vipiteno]. Stubaital This is a side valley off the lower Wipptal at Schönberg which extends to the southwest. It lies completely within North Tyrol. Innsbruck and Lower UpperInntal This costume is found from around Innsbruck up the valley to Imst. Ötztal This is a side valley of the Inn, which extends to the south from just below Imst, west of Stubaital. The men's joppe is distinguished by being embroidered on the front below the neck and on the cuffs, and no vest is worn. The women's bodice has a black upper part to the brustlatz with embroidery in a horizontal band. Pitztal This is the next side valley off the Inn as we head upstream. It joins the Inn valley at Arzl and extends to the south parallel to the Ötztal. Leutaschtal, Seefeld, Scharnitz This area lies north of the Inn valley about halfway between Innsbruck and Imst, where the Inn valley makes a bend and starts to head southwest, near the town of Telfs. The Leutasch valley runs north into Bavaria. Lechtal This river valley lies in northwestern Tyrol. The source of the river is in Vorarlberg, and flows through a corner of Tyrol before travelling north through western Bavaria. It does not connect with the Inn. The costume shows influence from both of these neighboring regions. Here is a plate showing the old costume, which seems to have been revived. Here are some images of the new costume, from the 1930's. Tannheim Tal This is a side valley of the Lech, The head of which is in the extreme northwest corner of Tyrol, and joins the Lech at a point not far from the German border. Notice the embroidered linen Goller, which is more typical of Switzerland, and the Radhaube, the wheeled headress which is common around the Bodensee, but not found anywhere else in Tyrol. Reutte This town is located on the lower Lech river, between the Tannheim Tal and the German border. Stanzer Tal At Landeck, the Inn valley makes an S curve to the south and heads to the southwest into Graubunden. The Stanzer Tal extends directly west of Landeck into Vorarlberg. This area marks the westernmost extension of North Tyrol. Paznaun Tal This valley meets the Stanzer Tal not far from its opening at Landeck, and extends to the southwest. Upper UpperInntal This includes the Inntal from just above Imst to the Swiss border. In the westernmost part of North Tyrol, there is a low pass which leads from the Upper Inn valley, just east of the Swiss border, south into South Tyrol Vintschgau This lies just south of the upper Inntal, and they are connected by a low pass. It is the valley of the upper Etsch River. The head of the valley is in the extreme northwest corner of South Tyrol. It heads south, and then east, and is considered to end in the vicinity of the city of Meran, where the river makes a sharp turn for the south. The men's costume varies; in the west, in Upper Vintschgau, it resembles that of the Upper Inntal. In the east, in lower Vintschgau, it resembles more the costume of Meran. This gwand is from Graun, in the extreme upper part of the valley. Meran and vicinity The city of Meran lies at the point where the Etsch takes a sharp turn and heads south. There is a bodice costume miedergwand which is worn here. The Burggrafenamt, the formal costume is often worn here as well, see below. Burggrafenamt This refers to the mid Etsch valley, basically between the cities of Meran and Bozen. The formal costume of this area is very popular for weddings over a wider area. This tracht shows definite city influence. This costume is also worn in Meran. The wide red lapels are a feature of this costume. Passeiertal This is a valley which opens near Meran, and heads north. Ultental This is a valley which opens on the Etsch river valley a short distance south of Meran and heads to the southwest. It lies to the south of Vintschgau. One unique characteristic is that sometimes the bun is covered with a hair net that has lace edging. Bozen and vicinity This is a large city which lies at the confluence of the Etsch and the Eisack rivers. Überetsch-Unterland This is the region which lies south of the city of Bozen, and forms a triangular extension in the south center of South Tyrol. The name means 'The Upper Etsch Lowland'. Of course, this is Tyrol, and 'lowland' is relative. The bodice is light green with pale red silk borders, and black velvet ribbon which is hand embroidered in a floral pattern. The brustlatz also has floral embroidery. Sarntal This is a valley which opens near the city of Bozen and heads north, between the two major river valleys of the Etsch and the Eisack. It is reached by passing through a narrow gorge, and so is relatively isolated. There are two costume traditions in this valley. The old one is very rich and colorful, and resembles the gwand which is found further east, in Eisacktal and Pustertal. In about 1850 the 'new costume' was introduced, and by the early 20th cent completely replaced the old, although most people still have them in their attics. There is now a movement to revive this costume. In the old costume unmarried men wore red jackets, and married men wore brown or black jackets. The 'new costume' is simple, dark, and sober, in keeping with the Pietistic ideals of the 19th cent. It is still a living tradition in the Sarntal. The new costume features black leather kraxn with feather embroidery. Ritten This is a plateau which lies between the Sarntal and the Eisacktal, to the northeast of the city of Bozen, and southeast of the Sarntal. The costume resembles that of the Eisacktal. Eggental This is a valley which extends to the southeast from the Eisack valley and opens just north of the city of Bozen. The men wear jackets of a light moss green which can even shade into yellow. The jacket may be short or long, and is bordered in a dark green. Kastelruth & Groedner Tal Kastelruth lies east of the Eisack valley, and leads east to the Groedner Tal, or Val Gardena, where the people speak Ladin. The costume is similar, but the Ladin people add extra items to the costume, like the festive crown, separate linen collar and metal belt for the girls. The German speaking people of Kastelruth wear a more sober form of the same costume. Mittel Eisacktal This is the mid Eisack river valley around Klausener, Villanders and Latzfons. The men's jacket of Latzfons is distinguished by embroidery on the front. Brixen This lies in the Eisacktal where it is joined by the Pustertal. Above this, the high Eisacktall is considered to be the upper Wipptal. Pustertal The Pustertal with its side valleys takes up the eastern part of South Tyrol. The large side valley on the south is Val Badia, which borders Val Gardena, and is also inhabited by Ladin speakers. The Ladin influence is also visible in this costume. You will notice that in the eastern part of this valley, another river rises and flows east. This is the Drava, which flows through East Tyrol, and eventually into Croatia. Pustertal-East Tyrol Transitional area This costume is found from Innichen east into East Tyrol by Lienz in the Drava river valley. This area also has its version of the new, or formal costume, which in this area is called Bäuerisches Gwand for the women, and Osttiroler Anzug for the men. This is similar to other names for this costume around Tyrol, and comes from the word for farmer, and not from Bavaria. East Tyrol Villgratental is a side valley which lies north of the Drava just east of the border of South Tyrol with East Tyrol. Lienz This is the main city of East Tyrol, and is found on the Drava river near the eastern edge of Tyrol Iseltal The Isel valley heads north from the city of Lienz. Defereggental This is a side valley of the Isel, and runs to the west, parallel to and north of the Drava. The women's bodice is distinguished by horizontal rows of floral embroidery on the brustlatz. Thus we come to the end of Tyrol. I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. The culture of Tyrol is rich and fascinating. I hope that you felt that it was worth devoting such a long article to it. Here is a short video about sewing Tyrolean tracht and dirndls. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlZ2onXGPRw Roman K [email protected] Source Material: Nina Gockerell & Helene Kostenzer, 'Alte Trachten aus Oberbayern & Tirol, Munich, 1976 Albert Kretschmer, 'Das Grosse Buch der Volkstrachten', Basel,1977 reprint of 1887 original Gertrud Pesendorfer & Grete Karasek,'Tirol : Neue Deutsche Bauerntrachten', Munich, 1938 Gertrud Pesendorfer, 'Lebendige Tracht in Tirol', Innsbruck, 1966 Uta Radakoich, 'Costumi Tradizionali dell'Alto Adige/Suedtirol', Trent, 2009 Maria Rehm, 'Oesterreichs Trachtenbuechlein', Innsbruck, 1981 Josef Ringler, 'Tiroler Trachten', Innsbruck, 1961 Petra Streng, 'Echt Tirol Trachten', Innsbruck, 2006 Hans Von Hammerstein, 'Trachten der Alpenlander', Vienna, 1937 'Die Sarner Tracht: Bairisch gien', Bozen, 2011

Die Wildschönau ist ein Hochtal in den Kitzbüheler Alpen mit zwei interessanten Museen und einem herrlichen Skigebiet.

Hello all, Today I will do a costume tour of Tyrol, or Tirol. This famous region in the Austrian Alps has a distinct costume tradition. Tyrol as a political entity dates back to about 1140. It eventually became an integral part of Austria. After WWI, It was divided between the current State of Austria and Italy, as part of the general idea of the time that vanquished enemies must be punished. For the southernmost part of the old Duchy of Tyrol, which is called Trentino, this had some justification, because that region is overwhelmingly Italian in language and culture, but it was decided that the Italian border should be placed along the Continental divide, so that the Suedtirol, which is German speaking, was also given to Italy. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/County_of_Tyrol It is interesting that currently the two parts of Tyrol have formed a voluntary union which also includes Trentino. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tyrol%E2%80%93South_Tyrol%E2%80%93Trentino_Euroregion Here is a map of the area, showing the Euroregion including Trent. This article will cover the German speaking area, excluding Trentino, which while long associated with Tyrol, is actually distinct in culture. Thus I will be talking about North Tyrol, East Tyrol, and South Tyrol. There are a couple of Valleys in the southeastern part of this area where Ladin is spoken, but the Italians in the area were relocated there by Mussolini, and only reside in the larger cities. The geographic center of Tyrol would be the Brenner pass, and the region consists of the headlands of three different major rivers, the Inn, the Etsch [Adige], and the Drava. The Inn and the Drava eventually flow into the Danube, while the Etsch flows into the Po. The Tyroleans live on both sides of the continental divide, as mountain people often do, and find their land divided by flatlanders who think that the mountains make a good place to put a border. The Tyrol is bordered by Bavaria on the north, which speaks a similar dialect of Upper German, [Boarisch], Vorarlberg and Graubunden on the west, which both speak Allemanisch, Lombardy, Trentino and Veneto on the south, which speak various Italian dialects/languages along with some pockets of Ladin, and Carinthia and Salzburg on the east, which are also parts of Austria, and speak Upper German. Here is a good physical map of the area. The costumes are not distinguished by municipal district, but by the valleys. I will provide more detailed maps where helpful. This map above may be expanded if needed, or open google maps and scroll around as you read. Here is another map with place names that might be useful. The costume is broadly similar over this entire area, with details distinguishing the various valleys. The men wear long wool pants Hos, or leather knickers Lederhosen, a linen shirt Pfoat, a vest Weste, which is often red, Suspenders Kraxn, usually worn over the vest, a large belt Gurt, a jacket usually of loden Joppe, as well as stockings, shoes, and the hat typical of the valley. The men's jacket is one of the items which distinguish the differnent costumes. They are of various cuts and lengths, different colors, and have embroidery, ribbon, or applique, or not. They may be brown, green, blue, maroon, violet, red, or even yellow, depending on the valley. The women, of course, have more variety, there usually being a formal costume, a festive costume, a winter costume, and an everyday work costume. I will focus on the summer festive costume for comparisons here. This includes a chemise Hemdl, a bodice Mieder, which often is laced closed over a plastron Brustlatz, a skirt Kittel, an apron Schurz, and often a jacket Joppe or Tschoap. The details of the trim and embroidery on the bodice are what mostly define the various costumes today. Both sexes often wear a black silk neck scarf Flor. Whereas in most places folk costumes are called Tracht, in this area they are more likely to be called G'wand, reflecting the local dialect. What is retained today in Tyrol is three historical layers of Gewand. The old 'miedertracht', which basically dates from the Baroque, This is seldom worn, but is seen in illustrations and museums.This often has skirts cut so as to exaggerate the width of the hips, sometimes has a short waist, and often has stockings worn in rolls so as to exaggerate the thickness of the legs. The bodice is stiff, and has a wide opening, with a plastron. Here is one example from the Innsbruck area. the 'spencertracht', which has its origins in the Biedermeier, which includes the dark leg of mutton sleeves. This seems to have been spread by the Pietism of the 19th cent. which valued simplicity, dark colors and modesty. Where this coexists with the bodice costume it is considered to be more formal. Here is an example from the Lower Inntal. and the Erneuerter tracht, which is a modernization of the miedertracht, done in the 1930's. The lines have been modified for practicality and to please modern notions of beauty. The waist has been returned to the natural waist and the plastron has been narrowed. The extremely thick hips and legs are no longer part of the costume. Here is an example of a renovated gewand from Innsbruck as worn today. Dirndls are a seperate thing. They are modern clothing which developed from the old everyday work costumes, and keep more or less the traditional cut. The colors, materials and details vary according to the desire of the wearer. They are worn, but are not considered to be true folk costumes. Nord Tirol I will proceed more or less from east to west. The east half is generally referred to as the Unterland [lowlands] and the western half as the Oberland [highlands]. Leukental or Großachental This valley runs from the Thurn pass on the border with Salzburg state north through Kitzbuhel and St. Johann to the German border, following the Ache river. This is a minor river which does not connect with the Inn valley. The images show the formal costume, kassettl, with the long sleeves as well as the festive costume with the bodice. This is the costume which is featured at the head of the article. Lower Inntal This is often considered to extend from the German border up to about Jenbach. The first image shows the formal costume of this area which has gradually become popular further up the valley and into some of the side valleys for weddings and other formal occasions. This costume is called 'Kassettl'. Here is a somewhat less formal version. The bodice costume is also found here Just for example, here is the everyday costume from this area. These everyday summer costumes are what gave rise to the dirndl in the 20th century. Just to give a more complete picture, here is the winter costume for this area. Here are some photos. Here is a video of an interview with a woman who specializes in sewing the Kassettl Gwand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEpUTLlsNgo Brixental and Wildschönau The Brixental joins the Inn valley near Wörgl and extends to the south and east towards Kitzbühel. Wildschönau is a side valley which extends to the west from Brixental. Alpbachtal This valley joins the Inn at Brixlegg, and runs to the southeast. The women's bodice is embroidered on both the front and the back. Zillertal This is a large valley which lies to the south of the Inn and joins the Inntal at Jenbach. Their own version of the formal costume is still commonly worn. Here we see that there is a particular hat which is a signature of this valley. This is very common. The men's costume has a red vest which closes under the arm. The front of the vest has one to three rows of gallon around the neck opening. Kraxn are not worn. The Joppe is light gray. Here is a video of a Riflemen's group from Zillertal on parade. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocoUP3R_H3c Here is a video of a musical group, The Young Zillertalers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5Dl13fPTYw Achental This is a small side valley which lies north of the Inntal, and also joins the Inn at Jenbach. Here is an old print of this costume. Notice the similarities and the differences. Upper LowerInntal This Gwand is found roughly from Jenbach up to the town of Hall. Wipptal The Wipptal is a large valley which joins the Inn at Innsbruck. It extends south to the Brenner pass, and beyond, into South Tyrol, where at some point it becomes the upper Eisacktal. Again, note the distinctive hat. The loden joppe is burgundy or violet colored in this valley. In the first image, the woman is wearing a formal jacket, Schalk. Sterzing and Pfitscher Tal This town is in South Tyrol, south of the Brenner Pass, in what the Tyroleans consider to be the upper Wipptal. The Pfitscher Tal is a side valley which extends to the northeast from Sterzing [Vipiteno]. Stubaital This is a side valley off the lower Wipptal at Schönberg which extends to the southwest. It lies completely within North Tyrol. Innsbruck and Lower UpperInntal This costume is found from around Innsbruck up the valley to Imst. Ötztal This is a side valley of the Inn, which extends to the south from just below Imst, west of Stubaital. The men's joppe is distinguished by being embroidered on the front below the neck and on the cuffs, and no vest is worn. The women's bodice has a black upper part to the brustlatz with embroidery in a horizontal band. Pitztal This is the next side valley off the Inn as we head upstream. It joins the Inn valley at Arzl and extends to the south parallel to the Ötztal. Leutaschtal, Seefeld, Scharnitz This area lies north of the Inn valley about halfway between Innsbruck and Imst, where the Inn valley makes a bend and starts to head southwest, near the town of Telfs. The Leutasch valley runs north into Bavaria. Lechtal This river valley lies in northwestern Tyrol. The source of the river is in Vorarlberg, and flows through a corner of Tyrol before travelling north through western Bavaria. It does not connect with the Inn. The costume shows influence from both of these neighboring regions. Here is a plate showing the old costume, which seems to have been revived. Here are some images of the new costume, from the 1930's. Tannheim Tal This is a side valley of the Lech, The head of which is in the extreme northwest corner of Tyrol, and joins the Lech at a point not far from the German border. Notice the embroidered linen Goller, which is more typical of Switzerland, and the Radhaube, the wheeled headress which is common around the Bodensee, but not found anywhere else in Tyrol. Reutte This town is located on the lower Lech river, between the Tannheim Tal and the German border. Stanzer Tal At Landeck, the Inn valley makes an S curve to the south and heads to the southwest into Graubunden. The Stanzer Tal extends directly west of Landeck into Vorarlberg. This area marks the westernmost extension of North Tyrol. Paznaun Tal This valley meets the Stanzer Tal not far from its opening at Landeck, and extends to the southwest. Upper UpperInntal This includes the Inntal from just above Imst to the Swiss border. In the westernmost part of North Tyrol, there is a low pass which leads from the Upper Inn valley, just east of the Swiss border, south into South Tyrol Vintschgau This lies just south of the upper Inntal, and they are connected by a low pass. It is the valley of the upper Etsch River. The head of the valley is in the extreme northwest corner of South Tyrol. It heads south, and then east, and is considered to end in the vicinity of the city of Meran, where the river makes a sharp turn for the south. The men's costume varies; in the west, in Upper Vintschgau, it resembles that of the Upper Inntal. In the east, in lower Vintschgau, it resembles more the costume of Meran. This gwand is from Graun, in the extreme upper part of the valley. Meran and vicinity The city of Meran lies at the point where the Etsch takes a sharp turn and heads south. There is a bodice costume miedergwand which is worn here. The Burggrafenamt, the formal costume is often worn here as well, see below. Burggrafenamt This refers to the mid Etsch valley, basically between the cities of Meran and Bozen. The formal costume of this area is very popular for weddings over a wider area. This tracht shows definite city influence. This costume is also worn in Meran. The wide red lapels are a feature of this costume. Passeiertal This is a valley which opens near Meran, and heads north. Ultental This is a valley which opens on the Etsch river valley a short distance south of Meran and heads to the southwest. It lies to the south of Vintschgau. One unique characteristic is that sometimes the bun is covered with a hair net that has lace edging. Bozen and vicinity This is a large city which lies at the confluence of the Etsch and the Eisack rivers. Überetsch-Unterland This is the region which lies south of the city of Bozen, and forms a triangular extension in the south center of South Tyrol. The name means 'The Upper Etsch Lowland'. Of course, this is Tyrol, and 'lowland' is relative. The bodice is light green with pale red silk borders, and black velvet ribbon which is hand embroidered in a floral pattern. The brustlatz also has floral embroidery. Sarntal This is a valley which opens near the city of Bozen and heads north, between the two major river valleys of the Etsch and the Eisack. It is reached by passing through a narrow gorge, and so is relatively isolated. There are two costume traditions in this valley. The old one is very rich and colorful, and resembles the gwand which is found further east, in Eisacktal and Pustertal. In about 1850 the 'new costume' was introduced, and by the early 20th cent completely replaced the old, although most people still have them in their attics. There is now a movement to revive this costume. In the old costume unmarried men wore red jackets, and married men wore brown or black jackets. The 'new costume' is simple, dark, and sober, in keeping with the Pietistic ideals of the 19th cent. It is still a living tradition in the Sarntal. The new costume features black leather kraxn with feather embroidery. Ritten This is a plateau which lies between the Sarntal and the Eisacktal, to the northeast of the city of Bozen, and southeast of the Sarntal. The costume resembles that of the Eisacktal. Eggental This is a valley which extends to the southeast from the Eisack valley and opens just north of the city of Bozen. The men wear jackets of a light moss green which can even shade into yellow. The jacket may be short or long, and is bordered in a dark green. Kastelruth & Groedner Tal Kastelruth lies east of the Eisack valley, and leads east to the Groedner Tal, or Val Gardena, where the people speak Ladin. The costume is similar, but the Ladin people add extra items to the costume, like the festive crown, separate linen collar and metal belt for the girls. The German speaking people of Kastelruth wear a more sober form of the same costume. Mittel Eisacktal This is the mid Eisack river valley around Klausener, Villanders and Latzfons. The men's jacket of Latzfons is distinguished by embroidery on the front. Brixen This lies in the Eisacktal where it is joined by the Pustertal. Above this, the high Eisacktall is considered to be the upper Wipptal. Pustertal The Pustertal with its side valleys takes up the eastern part of South Tyrol. The large side valley on the south is Val Badia, which borders Val Gardena, and is also inhabited by Ladin speakers. The Ladin influence is also visible in this costume. You will notice that in the eastern part of this valley, another river rises and flows east. This is the Drava, which flows through East Tyrol, and eventually into Croatia. Pustertal-East Tyrol Transitional area This costume is found from Innichen east into East Tyrol by Lienz in the Drava river valley. This area also has its version of the new, or formal costume, which in this area is called Bäuerisches Gwand for the women, and Osttiroler Anzug for the men. This is similar to other names for this costume around Tyrol, and comes from the word for farmer, and not from Bavaria. East Tyrol Villgratental is a side valley which lies north of the Drava just east of the border of South Tyrol with East Tyrol. Lienz This is the main city of East Tyrol, and is found on the Drava river near the eastern edge of Tyrol Iseltal The Isel valley heads north from the city of Lienz. Defereggental This is a side valley of the Isel, and runs to the west, parallel to and north of the Drava. The women's bodice is distinguished by horizontal rows of floral embroidery on the brustlatz. Thus we come to the end of Tyrol. I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. The culture of Tyrol is rich and fascinating. I hope that you felt that it was worth devoting such a long article to it. Here is a short video about sewing Tyrolean tracht and dirndls. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlZ2onXGPRw Roman K [email protected] Source Material: Nina Gockerell & Helene Kostenzer, 'Alte Trachten aus Oberbayern & Tirol, Munich, 1976 Albert Kretschmer, 'Das Grosse Buch der Volkstrachten', Basel,1977 reprint of 1887 original Gertrud Pesendorfer & Grete Karasek,'Tirol : Neue Deutsche Bauerntrachten', Munich, 1938 Gertrud Pesendorfer, 'Lebendige Tracht in Tirol', Innsbruck, 1966 Uta Radakoich, 'Costumi Tradizionali dell'Alto Adige/Suedtirol', Trent, 2009 Maria Rehm, 'Oesterreichs Trachtenbuechlein', Innsbruck, 1981 Josef Ringler, 'Tiroler Trachten', Innsbruck, 1961 Petra Streng, 'Echt Tirol Trachten', Innsbruck, 2006 Hans Von Hammerstein, 'Trachten der Alpenlander', Vienna, 1937 'Die Sarner Tracht: Bairisch gien', Bozen, 2011

Hello all, Today I will do a costume tour of Tyrol, or Tirol. This famous region in the Austrian Alps has a distinct costume tradition. Tyrol as a political entity dates back to about 1140. It eventually became an integral part of Austria. After WWI, It was divided between the current State of Austria and Italy, as part of the general idea of the time that vanquished enemies must be punished. For the southernmost part of the old Duchy of Tyrol, which is called Trentino, this had some justification, because that region is overwhelmingly Italian in language and culture, but it was decided that the Italian border should be placed along the Continental divide, so that the Suedtirol, which is German speaking, was also given to Italy. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/County_of_Tyrol It is interesting that currently the two parts of Tyrol have formed a voluntary union which also includes Trentino. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tyrol%E2%80%93South_Tyrol%E2%80%93Trentino_Euroregion Here is a map of the area, showing the Euroregion including Trent. This article will cover the German speaking area, excluding Trentino, which while long associated with Tyrol, is actually distinct in culture. Thus I will be talking about North Tyrol, East Tyrol, and South Tyrol. There are a couple of Valleys in the southeastern part of this area where Ladin is spoken, but the Italians in the area were relocated there by Mussolini, and only reside in the larger cities. The geographic center of Tyrol would be the Brenner pass, and the region consists of the headlands of three different major rivers, the Inn, the Etsch [Adige], and the Drava. The Inn and the Drava eventually flow into the Danube, while the Etsch flows into the Po. The Tyroleans live on both sides of the continental divide, as mountain people often do, and find their land divided by flatlanders who think that the mountains make a good place to put a border. The Tyrol is bordered by Bavaria on the north, which speaks a similar dialect of Upper German, [Boarisch], Vorarlberg and Graubunden on the west, which both speak Allemanisch, Lombardy, Trentino and Veneto on the south, which speak various Italian dialects/languages along with some pockets of Ladin, and Carinthia and Salzburg on the east, which are also parts of Austria, and speak Upper German. Here is a good physical map of the area. The costumes are not distinguished by municipal district, but by the valleys. I will provide more detailed maps where helpful. This map above may be expanded if needed, or open google maps and scroll around as you read. Here is another map with place names that might be useful. The costume is broadly similar over this entire area, with details distinguishing the various valleys. The men wear long wool pants Hos, or leather knickers Lederhosen, a linen shirt Pfoat, a vest Weste, which is often red, Suspenders Kraxn, usually worn over the vest, a large belt Gurt, a jacket usually of loden Joppe, as well as stockings, shoes, and the hat typical of the valley. The men's jacket is one of the items which distinguish the differnent costumes. They are of various cuts and lengths, different colors, and have embroidery, ribbon, or applique, or not. They may be brown, green, blue, maroon, violet, red, or even yellow, depending on the valley. The women, of course, have more variety, there usually being a formal costume, a festive costume, a winter costume, and an everyday work costume. I will focus on the summer festive costume for comparisons here. This includes a chemise Hemdl, a bodice Mieder, which often is laced closed over a plastron Brustlatz, a skirt Kittel, an apron Schurz, and often a jacket Joppe or Tschoap. The details of the trim and embroidery on the bodice are what mostly define the various costumes today. Both sexes often wear a black silk neck scarf Flor. Whereas in most places folk costumes are called Tracht, in this area they are more likely to be called G'wand, reflecting the local dialect. What is retained today in Tyrol is three historical layers of Gewand. The old 'miedertracht', which basically dates from the Baroque, This is seldom worn, but is seen in illustrations and museums.This often has skirts cut so as to exaggerate the width of the hips, sometimes has a short waist, and often has stockings worn in rolls so as to exaggerate the thickness of the legs. The bodice is stiff, and has a wide opening, with a plastron. Here is one example from the Innsbruck area. the 'spencertracht', which has its origins in the Biedermeier, which includes the dark leg of mutton sleeves. This seems to have been spread by the Pietism of the 19th cent. which valued simplicity, dark colors and modesty. Where this coexists with the bodice costume it is considered to be more formal. Here is an example from the Lower Inntal. and the Erneuerter tracht, which is a modernization of the miedertracht, done in the 1930's. The lines have been modified for practicality and to please modern notions of beauty. The waist has been returned to the natural waist and the plastron has been narrowed. The extremely thick hips and legs are no longer part of the costume. Here is an example of a renovated gewand from Innsbruck as worn today. Dirndls are a seperate thing. They are modern clothing which developed from the old everyday work costumes, and keep more or less the traditional cut. The colors, materials and details vary according to the desire of the wearer. They are worn, but are not considered to be true folk costumes. Nord Tirol I will proceed more or less from east to west. The east half is generally referred to as the Unterland [lowlands] and the western half as the Oberland [highlands]. Leukental or Großachental This valley runs from the Thurn pass on the border with Salzburg state north through Kitzbuhel and St. Johann to the German border, following the Ache river. This is a minor river which does not connect with the Inn valley. The images show the formal costume, kassettl, with the long sleeves as well as the festive costume with the bodice. This is the costume which is featured at the head of the article. Lower Inntal This is often considered to extend from the German border up to about Jenbach. The first image shows the formal costume of this area which has gradually become popular further up the valley and into some of the side valleys for weddings and other formal occasions. This costume is called 'Kassettl'. Here is a somewhat less formal version. The bodice costume is also found here Just for example, here is the everyday costume from this area. These everyday summer costumes are what gave rise to the dirndl in the 20th century. Just to give a more complete picture, here is the winter costume for this area. Here are some photos. Here is a video of an interview with a woman who specializes in sewing the Kassettl Gwand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEpUTLlsNgo Brixental and Wildschönau The Brixental joins the Inn valley near Wörgl and extends to the south and east towards Kitzbühel. Wildschönau is a side valley which extends to the west from Brixental. Alpbachtal This valley joins the Inn at Brixlegg, and runs to the southeast. The women's bodice is embroidered on both the front and the back. Zillertal This is a large valley which lies to the south of the Inn and joins the Inntal at Jenbach. Their own version of the formal costume is still commonly worn. Here we see that there is a particular hat which is a signature of this valley. This is very common. The men's costume has a red vest which closes under the arm. The front of the vest has one to three rows of gallon around the neck opening. Kraxn are not worn. The Joppe is light gray. Here is a video of a Riflemen's group from Zillertal on parade. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocoUP3R_H3c Here is a video of a musical group, The Young Zillertalers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5Dl13fPTYw Achental This is a small side valley which lies north of the Inntal, and also joins the Inn at Jenbach. Here is an old print of this costume. Notice the similarities and the differences. Upper LowerInntal This Gwand is found roughly from Jenbach up to the town of Hall. Wipptal The Wipptal is a large valley which joins the Inn at Innsbruck. It extends south to the Brenner pass, and beyond, into South Tyrol, where at some point it becomes the upper Eisacktal. Again, note the distinctive hat. The loden joppe is burgundy or violet colored in this valley. In the first image, the woman is wearing a formal jacket, Schalk. Sterzing and Pfitscher Tal This town is in South Tyrol, south of the Brenner Pass, in what the Tyroleans consider to be the upper Wipptal. The Pfitscher Tal is a side valley which extends to the northeast from Sterzing [Vipiteno]. Stubaital This is a side valley off the lower Wipptal at Schönberg which extends to the southwest. It lies completely within North Tyrol. Innsbruck and Lower UpperInntal This costume is found from around Innsbruck up the valley to Imst. Ötztal This is a side valley of the Inn, which extends to the south from just below Imst, west of Stubaital. The men's joppe is distinguished by being embroidered on the front below the neck and on the cuffs, and no vest is worn. The women's bodice has a black upper part to the brustlatz with embroidery in a horizontal band. Pitztal This is the next side valley off the Inn as we head upstream. It joins the Inn valley at Arzl and extends to the south parallel to the Ötztal. Leutaschtal, Seefeld, Scharnitz This area lies north of the Inn valley about halfway between Innsbruck and Imst, where the Inn valley makes a bend and starts to head southwest, near the town of Telfs. The Leutasch valley runs north into Bavaria. Lechtal This river valley lies in northwestern Tyrol. The source of the river is in Vorarlberg, and flows through a corner of Tyrol before travelling north through western Bavaria. It does not connect with the Inn. The costume shows influence from both of these neighboring regions. Here is a plate showing the old costume, which seems to have been revived. Here are some images of the new costume, from the 1930's. Tannheim Tal This is a side valley of the Lech, The head of which is in the extreme northwest corner of Tyrol, and joins the Lech at a point not far from the German border. Notice the embroidered linen Goller, which is more typical of Switzerland, and the Radhaube, the wheeled headress which is common around the Bodensee, but not found anywhere else in Tyrol. Reutte This town is located on the lower Lech river, between the Tannheim Tal and the German border. Stanzer Tal At Landeck, the Inn valley makes an S curve to the south and heads to the southwest into Graubunden. The Stanzer Tal extends directly west of Landeck into Vorarlberg. This area marks the westernmost extension of North Tyrol. Paznaun Tal This valley meets the Stanzer Tal not far from its opening at Landeck, and extends to the southwest. Upper UpperInntal This includes the Inntal from just above Imst to the Swiss border. In the westernmost part of North Tyrol, there is a low pass which leads from the Upper Inn valley, just east of the Swiss border, south into South Tyrol Vintschgau This lies just south of the upper Inntal, and they are connected by a low pass. It is the valley of the upper Etsch River. The head of the valley is in the extreme northwest corner of South Tyrol. It heads south, and then east, and is considered to end in the vicinity of the city of Meran, where the river makes a sharp turn for the south. The men's costume varies; in the west, in Upper Vintschgau, it resembles that of the Upper Inntal. In the east, in lower Vintschgau, it resembles more the costume of Meran. This gwand is from Graun, in the extreme upper part of the valley. Meran and vicinity The city of Meran lies at the point where the Etsch takes a sharp turn and heads south. There is a bodice costume miedergwand which is worn here. The Burggrafenamt, the formal costume is often worn here as well, see below. Burggrafenamt This refers to the mid Etsch valley, basically between the cities of Meran and Bozen. The formal costume of this area is very popular for weddings over a wider area. This tracht shows definite city influence. This costume is also worn in Meran. The wide red lapels are a feature of this costume. Passeiertal This is a valley which opens near Meran, and heads north. Ultental This is a valley which opens on the Etsch river valley a short distance south of Meran and heads to the southwest. It lies to the south of Vintschgau. One unique characteristic is that sometimes the bun is covered with a hair net that has lace edging. Bozen and vicinity This is a large city which lies at the confluence of the Etsch and the Eisack rivers. Überetsch-Unterland This is the region which lies south of the city of Bozen, and forms a triangular extension in the south center of South Tyrol. The name means 'The Upper Etsch Lowland'. Of course, this is Tyrol, and 'lowland' is relative. The bodice is light green with pale red silk borders, and black velvet ribbon which is hand embroidered in a floral pattern. The brustlatz also has floral embroidery. Sarntal This is a valley which opens near the city of Bozen and heads north, between the two major river valleys of the Etsch and the Eisack. It is reached by passing through a narrow gorge, and so is relatively isolated. There are two costume traditions in this valley. The old one is very rich and colorful, and resembles the gwand which is found further east, in Eisacktal and Pustertal. In about 1850 the 'new costume' was introduced, and by the early 20th cent completely replaced the old, although most people still have them in their attics. There is now a movement to revive this costume. In the old costume unmarried men wore red jackets, and married men wore brown or black jackets. The 'new costume' is simple, dark, and sober, in keeping with the Pietistic ideals of the 19th cent. It is still a living tradition in the Sarntal. The new costume features black leather kraxn with feather embroidery. Ritten This is a plateau which lies between the Sarntal and the Eisacktal, to the northeast of the city of Bozen, and southeast of the Sarntal. The costume resembles that of the Eisacktal. Eggental This is a valley which extends to the southeast from the Eisack valley and opens just north of the city of Bozen. The men wear jackets of a light moss green which can even shade into yellow. The jacket may be short or long, and is bordered in a dark green. Kastelruth & Groedner Tal Kastelruth lies east of the Eisack valley, and leads east to the Groedner Tal, or Val Gardena, where the people speak Ladin. The costume is similar, but the Ladin people add extra items to the costume, like the festive crown, separate linen collar and metal belt for the girls. The German speaking people of Kastelruth wear a more sober form of the same costume. Mittel Eisacktal This is the mid Eisack river valley around Klausener, Villanders and Latzfons. The men's jacket of Latzfons is distinguished by embroidery on the front. Brixen This lies in the Eisacktal where it is joined by the Pustertal. Above this, the high Eisacktall is considered to be the upper Wipptal. Pustertal The Pustertal with its side valleys takes up the eastern part of South Tyrol. The large side valley on the south is Val Badia, which borders Val Gardena, and is also inhabited by Ladin speakers. The Ladin influence is also visible in this costume. You will notice that in the eastern part of this valley, another river rises and flows east. This is the Drava, which flows through East Tyrol, and eventually into Croatia. Pustertal-East Tyrol Transitional area This costume is found from Innichen east into East Tyrol by Lienz in the Drava river valley. This area also has its version of the new, or formal costume, which in this area is called Bäuerisches Gwand for the women, and Osttiroler Anzug for the men. This is similar to other names for this costume around Tyrol, and comes from the word for farmer, and not from Bavaria. East Tyrol Villgratental is a side valley which lies north of the Drava just east of the border of South Tyrol with East Tyrol. Lienz This is the main city of East Tyrol, and is found on the Drava river near the eastern edge of Tyrol Iseltal The Isel valley heads north from the city of Lienz. Defereggental This is a side valley of the Isel, and runs to the west, parallel to and north of the Drava. The women's bodice is distinguished by horizontal rows of floral embroidery on the brustlatz. Thus we come to the end of Tyrol. I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. The culture of Tyrol is rich and fascinating. I hope that you felt that it was worth devoting such a long article to it. Here is a short video about sewing Tyrolean tracht and dirndls. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlZ2onXGPRw Roman K [email protected] Source Material: Nina Gockerell & Helene Kostenzer, 'Alte Trachten aus Oberbayern & Tirol, Munich, 1976 Albert Kretschmer, 'Das Grosse Buch der Volkstrachten', Basel,1977 reprint of 1887 original Gertrud Pesendorfer & Grete Karasek,'Tirol : Neue Deutsche Bauerntrachten', Munich, 1938 Gertrud Pesendorfer, 'Lebendige Tracht in Tirol', Innsbruck, 1966 Uta Radakoich, 'Costumi Tradizionali dell'Alto Adige/Suedtirol', Trent, 2009 Maria Rehm, 'Oesterreichs Trachtenbuechlein', Innsbruck, 1981 Josef Ringler, 'Tiroler Trachten', Innsbruck, 1961 Petra Streng, 'Echt Tirol Trachten', Innsbruck, 2006 Hans Von Hammerstein, 'Trachten der Alpenlander', Vienna, 1937 'Die Sarner Tracht: Bairisch gien', Bozen, 2011

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Die Miesbacher Tracht gehört zu den bekanntesten Trachten in Bayern. Je nach Anlass gibt es unterschiedliche Tragevarianten. Hier alles erfahren!

This is a print inspired by vintage geometric tiles that captures the timeless elegance and intricate patterns reminiscent of historic tile designs. We have used a summery combination of pinks, blues, and greens to give this traditional print a fun kitsch twist. These versatile Crepe wide-leg bottoms make the perfect lounge or outerwear! Pair with a matching blouse for a beautiful twin set or a low key camisole top for a comfortable yet chic look.

Hello all, Today I am going to focus on the Miesbach costume. This costume has become a symbol of Bavaria, of Munich, and in fact, of Germany as a whole. It is actually from south central Upper Bavaria, the area known as the Tölz-Miesbach Upland, between the Inn River in the east, the Ammer River in the west, the Austrian border on the south, and the environs of Munich in the north, covering the Landskreise of Toelz, Miesbach, and the western half of Rosenheim. However, it is also strongly identified with Munich, and is widely worn in all of Bavaria and beyond, and often considered to be more than a regional costume. This is not a living costume region in the historical sense, as are, for example, Ochsenfurt or Schaumburg. The modern Miesbach costume was codified by the local Trachtenvereine in Miesbach starting in 1900 or so, and then other Costume groups in the region joined in to help develop it, up to the 1950's, and indeed the various local groups continue to refine it today. http://www.trachtenvereinmiesbach.de/ This is not to say that it was invented out of nothing at that time, it rose out of a desire to reclaim the clothing heritage of the area, but also to modernize it for a new era. There was much source material available, and so this must count as one of the most successful rebirths of a regional costume, as people began to value it as part of their heritage, rather than to disparage it as the outmoded clothing of country bumpkins. This is one of the few folk costumes which one can buy off the rack in department stores. Here is an image painted by Albert Kretschmer in the latter mid 1800's of the costume as it was worn at that time. We do not know the exact year that it was painted, but it was published somewhere between 1877 and 1890. There is continuity and yet many differences of detail when compared to the modern Tracht.  The photo at the head of the article shows some members of the German American Society here in Omaha who were invited to take part in the Oktoberfest activities in Munich, which few groups outside of Germany have done under official auspices. Here is another photo of that group.. There are several versions of this costume, appropriate for occasions of varying solemnity. The version pictured above is perhaps a medium level, appropriate for Sunday services or a festival. I will be presenting the various pieces with the help of my friends Orest and Sara. also members of the Omaha German American Club who agreed to pose for a series of photographs. They wear the variant of the Tracht which is used in Wolfratshausen, in the northwestern corner of this costume area. Festtracht or Deandl This is the Gwand with Mieder and Weisswasch. Originally the foundation garment was a linen chemise, of which only the collar and cuffs were visible in this version of the costume. In the course of the development of this costume in the 20th cent. The chemise was cut in two, forming a petticoat and blouse, and then the blouse was reduced to a dickey, called Schmiesl [Chemise-l, little chemise]. The only part of this which shows is the lace around the color and the linen around it. The ties on the front corners pass through the loops on the back corners, and then are secured around the body, similar to the Dutch kraplap. Here is a closeup when fully dressed. The bottom half of the chemise is now the petticoat, which today is worn over bloomers. As in many places, more than one petticoat, and even an underskirt may be worn. The Spenser jacket was extremely common in central Western Europe at this time, but here in this costume it has migrated inside the bodice, and is worn just over the chemise, and later the Schmiesl. In the print by Kretschmer above, you can see that it has the typical leg of mutton sleeves which are smocked on the upper arm. Today this garment is called Janker, and the sleeves have been modified; the upper smocked portion is sewn separately, and set into the armhole with a capped sleeve. The lower portion is quite narrow and there is a seam between the two. This results in the sleeve lying smoothly and closely along the arms when lowered, but also results in a significant lack of mobility. The Janker is always made of the same material as the top skirt, today usually a solid red, green, or blue, but in the past, as we see from Kretschmer, it was also made of flowered material. Here are front and back views. The modern Janker is quite short, not reaching the waist, which is why I do not have a photo of Sara wearing it without the bodice over it. Over the Janker is worn the Mieder, the bodice. This is generally made of black satin, is boned and stiffened with quilting and cording in many subtle patterns. It closes at the side front with chains and hooks. On the sides are two rows of silver hooks. A chain is threaded through these open hooks back and forth, the pin on the leading end being tucked in behind the threaded chain. Generally the chain is quite long, and is often looped over several pins inserted into the top front of the bodice. Sometimes it is even looped around the pins which fasten the shoulder shawl and loops right around the shoulders. Usually flowers and asparagus fern are inserted into the top of the bodice. If you look closely at this image, you can see the opening just to the right of the first rose. There is an ornamental hook in the center back, over which is hung a loop attached to the skirt. There are also hooks and eyes around the waist which help support the skirt. The Mieder has lappets which are worn under the skirt. The straps over the shoulders meet in the center back, and are pinned near the front. We see here that Sara has chosen to wear the Schmiesl over the Janker. Click on any of these images to see more detail. This is a link to an article in which a woman describes the process of sewing her own Mieder. http://www.wertachtaler.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=67:miedernaehen&catid=4:aktuelles&Itemid=3 The skirt is of wool, has deep folks at the waist, and generally has dark ribbons sewn on above the hem. The reason that this version of the costume is called 'mit Weisswasch', is that it has a linen apron and shoulder kerchief. These are generally coupled with a hem length somewhere around mid calf. Bands of lace are inserted into both. In this case, crotchet lace was used, but other types of lace, especially bobbin lace, may also be used. The apron is usually tied at the rear, if linen, and at the side if silk, but Kretschmer shows it being tied in front in his time. I do not know if there is any significance to this. The triangular shoulder kerchief, Halstuch, is folded, the folds pinned, and then secured to the bodice with two pins in front, and one or three in back, the folds being designed to help it fit smoothly and to show off the lace. ` White or blue stockings are worn with this costume, and black leather shoes, earlier high button shoes, and today more likely lower ones 'halbschuhe', with straps. The hair is put up in a bun at the back of the head and fixed in place with filligree silver hair pins. A choker with several chains and a stone in the clasp is worn around the neck. Earrings are worn. A rather low felt hat is worn, with a single row of matching cording, but having a feather or gamsbart pinned to it. A Gamsbart is a tuft of long hairs from the Chamois. Small pins from contests or travels may also be pinned to the hat. You will note that the hat is much shorter than the one pictured in Kretschmer. Often a short chain is attached to the bottom two hooks on the Mieder, with various charms hanging from it, Old coins, bird's feet, animal horns, etc. In some cases, they are also attached to the lacing chain. I will quickly introduce some of the other versions of the costume. Gewand with Mieder and Seidenwasch' This is very similar to the above costume. It is more for married women but is also worn by unmarried girls for more formal occasions, such as high Church holidays. It is distinguished by a longer hemline, around ankle length, silk apron and shoulder kerchief, and a hat which has gold cording and tassels. Kirchagwand This is worn to Church, in some places most Sundays, in others only on the more important Feast Days. It is made of silk in black or some other dark color. The skirt is longer, almost floor length, there is no shoulder shawl or bodice, The upper body being covered by a jacket with a peplum. The hat is also plain but rich. This is generally worn only by married and older women. Schalk This is the most formal version of this costume, and many country women wear it for their weddings. It is made of black silk, the collar and back edge of the jacket are ornamented with ruched black silk ribbon and lace. The upper sleeves are smocked, and there is lace on the cuffs. The skirt is floor length. The Schmiesl is worn underneath, along with a much folded fichu which is pinned into place. It fastens down the front with silver filligree buttons. A less formal version than the Gewand with Mieder and Weisswasch is sometimes known as 'Halbtracht', or 'half' costume. It replaces the Schmiesl and Janker with a short sleeved blouse. This is often worn by younger girls, and many groups prefer to use it for dancing, as it is cooler and provides more freedom of movement. One can make this even more informal by replacing the formal boned bodice with a soft bodice which buttons in front. This is particularly suited for dancing. You can see this type of bodice in the Kretschmer print being worn by the older woman in the boat. This has almost become a dirndl, which is the everyday costume.. There are a couple more versions, but I will end the article here. I will cover the men's costume in another posting. This costume is part of a larger costume complex native to the mountains of southern Upper Bavaria. For context, here are some images of other Upper Bavarian costumes. http://www.isargau.de/cms/pages/sachausschuesse/trachtenpflege-und-trachtenforschung/gebirgstracht.php Werdenfelser Isarwinkler Inntaler Berchtesgaden Here are some images of costumes which are of this complex but not Miesbach. The Miesbach costume never has fringes on the shoulder shawl. I am not certain which of the above they represent. I believe that all of the following images are of the Miesbach costume. Please feel free to correct me. I'm not sure where the man in this image is from. A bride and groom. Thank you for reading, I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. Roman K. [email protected] Source Material: http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miesbacher_Tracht Many thanks to Orest and Sara and the Omaha German American Club. Toni Demmelmeier and Torsten Gebhard, 'Trachten in Bayern, heft 1, Miesbach', Munich, 1981 Albert Kretschmer, 'Das Grosse Buch der Volkstrachten',

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Hello all, Today I am going to focus on the Miesbach costume. This costume has become a symbol of Bavaria, of Munich, and in fact, of Germany as a whole. It is actually from south central Upper Bavaria, the area known as the Tölz-Miesbach Upland, between the Inn River in the east, the Ammer River in the west, the Austrian border on the south, and the environs of Munich in the north, covering the Landskreise of Toelz, Miesbach, and the western half of Rosenheim. However, it is also strongly identified with Munich, and is widely worn in all of Bavaria and beyond, and often considered to be more than a regional costume. This is not a living costume region in the historical sense, as are, for example, Ochsenfurt or Schaumburg. The modern Miesbach costume was codified by the local Trachtenvereine in Miesbach starting in 1900 or so, and then other Costume groups in the region joined in to help develop it, up to the 1950's, and indeed the various local groups continue to refine it today. http://www.trachtenvereinmiesbach.de/ This is not to say that it was invented out of nothing at that time, it rose out of a desire to reclaim the clothing heritage of the area, but also to modernize it for a new era. There was much source material available, and so this must count as one of the most successful rebirths of a regional costume, as people began to value it as part of their heritage, rather than to disparage it as the outmoded clothing of country bumpkins. This is one of the few folk costumes which one can buy off the rack in department stores. Here is an image painted by Albert Kretschmer in the latter mid 1800's of the costume as it was worn at that time. We do not know the exact year that it was painted, but it was published somewhere between 1877 and 1890. There is continuity and yet many differences of detail when compared to the modern Tracht.  The photo at the head of the article shows some members of the German American Society here in Omaha who were invited to take part in the Oktoberfest activities in Munich, which few groups outside of Germany have done under official auspices. Here is another photo of that group.. There are several versions of this costume, appropriate for occasions of varying solemnity. The version pictured above is perhaps a medium level, appropriate for Sunday services or a festival. I will be presenting the various pieces with the help of my friends Orest and Sara. also members of the Omaha German American Club who agreed to pose for a series of photographs. They wear the variant of the Tracht which is used in Wolfratshausen, in the northwestern corner of this costume area. Festtracht or Deandl This is the Gwand with Mieder and Weisswasch. Originally the foundation garment was a linen chemise, of which only the collar and cuffs were visible in this version of the costume. In the course of the development of this costume in the 20th cent. The chemise was cut in two, forming a petticoat and blouse, and then the blouse was reduced to a dickey, called Schmiesl [Chemise-l, little chemise]. The only part of this which shows is the lace around the color and the linen around it. The ties on the front corners pass through the loops on the back corners, and then are secured around the body, similar to the Dutch kraplap. Here is a closeup when fully dressed. The bottom half of the chemise is now the petticoat, which today is worn over bloomers. As in many places, more than one petticoat, and even an underskirt may be worn. The Spenser jacket was extremely common in central Western Europe at this time, but here in this costume it has migrated inside the bodice, and is worn just over the chemise, and later the Schmiesl. In the print by Kretschmer above, you can see that it has the typical leg of mutton sleeves which are smocked on the upper arm. Today this garment is called Janker, and the sleeves have been modified; the upper smocked portion is sewn separately, and set into the armhole with a capped sleeve. The lower portion is quite narrow and there is a seam between the two. This results in the sleeve lying smoothly and closely along the arms when lowered, but also results in a significant lack of mobility. The Janker is always made of the same material as the top skirt, today usually a solid red, green, or blue, but in the past, as we see from Kretschmer, it was also made of flowered material. Here are front and back views. The modern Janker is quite short, not reaching the waist, which is why I do not have a photo of Sara wearing it without the bodice over it. Over the Janker is worn the Mieder, the bodice. This is generally made of black satin, is boned and stiffened with quilting and cording in many subtle patterns. It closes at the side front with chains and hooks. On the sides are two rows of silver hooks. A chain is threaded through these open hooks back and forth, the pin on the leading end being tucked in behind the threaded chain. Generally the chain is quite long, and is often looped over several pins inserted into the top front of the bodice. Sometimes it is even looped around the pins which fasten the shoulder shawl and loops right around the shoulders. Usually flowers and asparagus fern are inserted into the top of the bodice. If you look closely at this image, you can see the opening just to the right of the first rose. There is an ornamental hook in the center back, over which is hung a loop attached to the skirt. There are also hooks and eyes around the waist which help support the skirt. The Mieder has lappets which are worn under the skirt. The straps over the shoulders meet in the center back, and are pinned near the front. We see here that Sara has chosen to wear the Schmiesl over the Janker. Click on any of these images to see more detail. This is a link to an article in which a woman describes the process of sewing her own Mieder. http://www.wertachtaler.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=67:miedernaehen&catid=4:aktuelles&Itemid=3 The skirt is of wool, has deep folks at the waist, and generally has dark ribbons sewn on above the hem. The reason that this version of the costume is called 'mit Weisswasch', is that it has a linen apron and shoulder kerchief. These are generally coupled with a hem length somewhere around mid calf. Bands of lace are inserted into both. In this case, crotchet lace was used, but other types of lace, especially bobbin lace, may also be used. The apron is usually tied at the rear, if linen, and at the side if silk, but Kretschmer shows it being tied in front in his time. I do not know if there is any significance to this. The triangular shoulder kerchief, Halstuch, is folded, the folds pinned, and then secured to the bodice with two pins in front, and one or three in back, the folds being designed to help it fit smoothly and to show off the lace. ` White or blue stockings are worn with this costume, and black leather shoes, earlier high button shoes, and today more likely lower ones 'halbschuhe', with straps. The hair is put up in a bun at the back of the head and fixed in place with filligree silver hair pins. A choker with several chains and a stone in the clasp is worn around the neck. Earrings are worn. A rather low felt hat is worn, with a single row of matching cording, but having a feather or gamsbart pinned to it. A Gamsbart is a tuft of long hairs from the Chamois. Small pins from contests or travels may also be pinned to the hat. You will note that the hat is much shorter than the one pictured in Kretschmer. Often a short chain is attached to the bottom two hooks on the Mieder, with various charms hanging from it, Old coins, bird's feet, animal horns, etc. In some cases, they are also attached to the lacing chain. I will quickly introduce some of the other versions of the costume. Gewand with Mieder and Seidenwasch' This is very similar to the above costume. It is more for married women but is also worn by unmarried girls for more formal occasions, such as high Church holidays. It is distinguished by a longer hemline, around ankle length, silk apron and shoulder kerchief, and a hat which has gold cording and tassels. Kirchagwand This is worn to Church, in some places most Sundays, in others only on the more important Feast Days. It is made of silk in black or some other dark color. The skirt is longer, almost floor length, there is no shoulder shawl or bodice, The upper body being covered by a jacket with a peplum. The hat is also plain but rich. This is generally worn only by married and older women. Schalk This is the most formal version of this costume, and many country women wear it for their weddings. It is made of black silk, the collar and back edge of the jacket are ornamented with ruched black silk ribbon and lace. The upper sleeves are smocked, and there is lace on the cuffs. The skirt is floor length. The Schmiesl is worn underneath, along with a much folded fichu which is pinned into place. It fastens down the front with silver filligree buttons. A less formal version than the Gewand with Mieder and Weisswasch is sometimes known as 'Halbtracht', or 'half' costume. It replaces the Schmiesl and Janker with a short sleeved blouse. This is often worn by younger girls, and many groups prefer to use it for dancing, as it is cooler and provides more freedom of movement. One can make this even more informal by replacing the formal boned bodice with a soft bodice which buttons in front. This is particularly suited for dancing. You can see this type of bodice in the Kretschmer print being worn by the older woman in the boat. This has almost become a dirndl, which is the everyday costume.. There are a couple more versions, but I will end the article here. I will cover the men's costume in another posting. This costume is part of a larger costume complex native to the mountains of southern Upper Bavaria. For context, here are some images of other Upper Bavarian costumes. http://www.isargau.de/cms/pages/sachausschuesse/trachtenpflege-und-trachtenforschung/gebirgstracht.php Werdenfelser Isarwinkler Inntaler Berchtesgaden Here are some images of costumes which are of this complex but not Miesbach. The Miesbach costume never has fringes on the shoulder shawl. I am not certain which of the above they represent. I believe that all of the following images are of the Miesbach costume. Please feel free to correct me. I'm not sure where the man in this image is from. A bride and groom. Thank you for reading, I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. Roman K. [email protected] Source Material: http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miesbacher_Tracht Many thanks to Orest and Sara and the Omaha German American Club. Toni Demmelmeier and Torsten Gebhard, 'Trachten in Bayern, heft 1, Miesbach', Munich, 1981 Albert Kretschmer, 'Das Grosse Buch der Volkstrachten',

In her new monthly column, curator Shonagh Marshall traces the visual representation of a fashion trend through the ages. Here, she considers the leg of mutton sleeve

The Blanca Flight Suit is a semi-fitted, highly customizable boiler suit pattern inspired by vintage workwear. With multiple sleeve and leg options, it can be made in a variety of fabrics and can easily be styled up or down. Blanca features a center front zipper, patch pockets that double as belt loops, an optional tie belt or buckled belt, a traditional shirt collar and a unique pleated back design. Customize your flight suit by adding a long sleeve, tapered sleeve with a snap button, or short sleeve. The leg is cut straight, with the option to crop it or taper at the hem with a leg tab. In addition, choose between a classic breast patch pocket or zippered pocket for added detailPattern written for sizes 0-20.  Please email [email protected] if you are interested in the size 14-32 pattern.

Japanese tattoos are definitely more complicated than most Western tattoos and also more meaningful. Here are some of the best Japanese tattoo designs for you to choose from.

Part of The Royal School of Needlework x Coast collection. Designed with modern brides in mind, this jumpsuit is unbound by tradition. Showing off a wide-leg silhouette with a waist-defining fit and kimono sleeves, the jumpsuit comes complete with sparkling embellishments for extra drama, inspired by the Kyoto artwork. The Royal School of Needlework was founded in 1872, to revive the beautiful artform of embroidery. This new bridal collection has been inspired by the Royal School of Needlework's Archives.

With tattoo trends changing almost as often as the trends on social media, there still are some tattoo styles that defy time, gaining immunity to any and all passing-by trends. Want to guess which tattoos we are talking about? Yup, you’re absolutely right; it’s American traditional tattoos! To honor this never-dying trend, we’ve rounded up some of the most beautiful specimens done in recent days, and although these old-school tattoos did change during the period of their natural evolution, the core still stayed the same.

A collection of amazing Inspirational Japanese tattoos samples made by top artists around the world - via Pinterest. Save your favorite inspiration!

Leg tattoos for men can be a great way to express yourself. They are large enough to show off your personality, but they can also be subtle.