Hello all, I received a request to do an overview of the costumes of Brittany [Breizh, Bretagne]. I do not know if this will be in time to help her with her class project, but I had been planning on doing this for a while in any case. I have already done one in-depth article on the costume called Giz-Fouen from Rosparden. Brittany is traditionally divided into two parts, Lower Brittany and Upper Brittany. The lower and upper defined by altitude. Lower Brittany is the western half, where the people speak the Breton Language, which derives from the same root as Welsh and Cornish. Upper Brittany is the eastern half, where the people speak French, and traditionally used the Gallo Language, which is also derived from Latin. The Breton Language has been retreating to the west for some centuries now. Here is a map showing upper and lower Brittany against the traditional provinces. The second map gives the names of the provinces in the Breton Language as well as in French. In France, as in many places, the traditional provinces or regions no longer have any legal standing, purely administrative districts have taken their place for legal and governmental purposes. Some maps that you will see show these administrative regions rather than the traditional cultural regions. Brittany, or Little Britain, was settled by people from the Island of Great Britain who fled their homes during the Anglo-Saxon invasion. For more information about the History, Language and Culture of Brittany, see this article. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brittany There are many costumes in Brittanny, by some counts up to 66, but I will not be able to show them all, in fact I have not found images for all of them. They are also not evenly distributed, there being more costumes and more elaborate and colorful ones in the west. LOWER BRITTANY The four best known and most elaborate costumes are all from the western part of the province of Gernew [Cornouialle]. I will start with these. Giz-Fouen costume from the region of Rosporden and Pont-Aven. I have already done an in depth posting on this costume. Here is the region and the costume itself. Bigouden Costume of Pont l'Abbe. This is perhaps the most famous costume and embroidery of Brittany. Here is the location of the region. The photograph at the top of the article is of a professional embroiderer's shop in this region. You can see the masses of embroidery on the garments they are working on. I find it interesting to see men also engaged in the embroidery. The costumes they are wearing are those of the end of the 19th cent. Here are a couple of photographs, even today some people prefer the old form of the costume. During the early part of the 20th century, the coif continued to grow until it reached monumental proportions. This continued until the advent of automobiles made it inconvenient. The skirts shortened, and the aprons became white with free-form embroidery. The Glazik costume of Kemper [Quimper] This is another well-known costume of Brittany, often featured on the famous pottery of the area. Here is the location of the region. Here is a group performing at a festival in Poznan', Poland. [This photograph is taken from the book 'Ethnic Dress' by Frances Kennett, In the book she implies that this is a Polish dance group, which it clearly is not. Most general books on folk costume, even good ones, have at least one such glaring error. Make sure you check multiple sources.] The exact form of the embroidery, especially on the men's vests, varies by the town. This costume has several variations, some of which are quite reserved. A jacket for the men is part of the costume as well. Alternatively, some versions of the costume are very colorful indeed, as this example from Kerfeunteun. The Costume of Plougastel-Daoulas This is one of the most colorful of all the costumes of Brittany. It is only found in the one city. Here is an older form of the costume. Notice the rich lace and embroidery. Here is a more recent form. The province of Leon. This costume is found in the regions of Brignogan and Plounéour-Trez on the mid-northern coast. Kerlouan, just to the west of the above region, is famous for the cone-shaped coif. Saint-Pol-de-Léon in the northeast corner. Inland Leon The Province of Tregor Tregor is characterized by a small coif with two narrow wings, called the touken. There is also a larger coif called the katiole. The Province of Gwened or Vannes. This province is named after Gwynedd in Wales, another remembrance of the roots of the people of Brittany. The costumes of Gwened or Vannes are characterized by a coif in which the front has developed a flat shield-like shape. Here is an example from Auray. The costume of the Island of Groix, in the Lorient region. Sometimes the entire coif is made of lace which covers the side of the head. Here is the costume of Baud. Sometimes the pinafore apron is highly embroidered. The dances here are just as active and spectacular as in other parts of Brittany. This is the Groupe de Pontivy performing the Gavotte du Pays Pourlet. UPPER BRITTANY There is much less costume material available from Upper Brittany. There is also much less variety in the costumes. I here present what I have been able to find by province. The Province of Sant Brieg [in French, Saint Brieuc or Penthievre]. This is an example of the Burgher's or Town Costume, widespread among the various folklorique groups of Upper Brittany. Province of Sant Malou [Saint Malo] Province of Roazhon [Rennes] Notice the coif has the side lappets folded over the top and pinned in place. Also notice the triskelion on her neckband. This is a very Celtic symbol and one of the National symbols of Breizh [Brittany]. Province of Guerande This is a small province with a very colorful and unique costume. This is known as the costume of the Marsh-Dwellers. Province of Naonaid [Nantes] When the French Government instituted the Departements [administrative regions] to replace the old traditional Provinces, they removed the Bro-Naonaid [pays de Nantes] from Brittany and made it administratively part of the Departement of Loire-Atlantique. The people of Brittany still consider it to be an integral part of their land, however. Historically, the women of Nantes wore a very high coif, somewhat reminiscent of those of Normandy. Here is an image of a couple of girls from Pornic, mid 1800's. Here is the costume of a folkloric group in Vertou. They did a very good job of researching their local materials to make this outfit. You can see many details on their website. http://cercleceltiquevertou.free.fr/dossiercostume.htm A children's perfoming group from Jans. As in many children's groups from many countries, the skirts have been shortened far beyond what any adult would wear. A simple bonnet is worn instead of the adult coif, which is common in many areas. http://filetsbleus.free.fr/groupe/jans.htm Coif and costume from the area of Clisson. Town costume of Nantes itself as presented by the performing group Bleuniadur. http://bleuniadur.over-blog.com/article-2268231.html I would like to emphasize that this is not a comprehensive listing. There are yet other costumes which I have not covered. Thank you for reading, I hope you have found this interesting and informative. Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. I also choreograph and teach folk dance. Roman K. [email protected] Source Material: Joseph Jigourel - Yanna Fournier, 'Costumes de Bretagne', Brest, 2000 Pierre Jakez Helias, 'Coiffes et Costumes de Bretagne', 1983 Bruno Helias, 'Breton Costumes', Florence, Italy, 1997 V. Hetet-Roudaut et al, 'La Broderie en Bretagne', Morlaix, 1989 Andre Sainsard, 'Costumes Folkloriques Provinces Françaises', Paris, 1972 Royere, Gardilanne, Moffat et al, 'Les Costumes Regionaux de la France', New York, 1929 Charles-Brun, 'Costumes des Provinces Françaises', Paris, 1937 P. Leroux, 'Costumes Regionaux', Paris, 1940
Hello all, Today I will talk about another costume which was acquired by my friend Joan. The costume is commonly known as Giz-Foen [or Giz-Fouen]. It is also known as the costume of the regions of Fouesnant, Rosporden, Concarneau, or Pont-Aven. In fact, it is found in all of these, and over a relatively large area along the coast of the southeast corner of the province of Bro-Gernev, or Cornouialle, Brittany, as far north as Elliant. [But is not found in the communities of Moelan on the sea or Clohars Carnoet, in the extreme southeast corner.] Here is a map of Lower Brittany with the subject area shown in red. Below is a map showing the province of Cornouialle in the context of all Brittany. Brittany, or Little Britain, was settled by people from the southwest of the Island of Great Britain, who were driven out of their homeland by the invading English, [Anglo-Saxons]. The province of Kernev [in Breton] or Cornouialle [in French] is named after their homeland in Britain, Kornog or Cornwall, just as the next province to the east, Bro-Wened, or Vannes, is named after Gwynedd.They brought their language with them, and it is still spoken in Brittany today, being closely related to both Cornish and Welsh. On the map above, you can see the black and white flag of Brittany, and the flag of Kernev (Gernev)or Cornouaille with the white ram on blue. For more information on Brittany, see this article. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brittany Brittany, especially the western part, has a very rich history of folk costumes. This is one of the better known ones, with its elaborate coif. I found the costume on auction from an Estate Sale, among a lot of stage costumes, and i was able to buy it quite cheaply, as noone knew what it was. My Friend Joan, for whom i more recently made a Provencal costume, was very happy to acquire it. Here is the costume as we received it. Below that is a photo of Joan wearing it, along with myself in an Indian Kurta, Jennifer in her Hungarian, from the Great Plain, and Rita in her Goral. Since Pont-Aven, one of the villages where this costume is worn, has a long history of hosting famous artists, this costume has been well documented in art. Here is a painting by Sartre from his time there of the innkeeper where he stayed, followed by a sketch from another artist. Here is a photo showing a more contemporary version of this costume. The base of the garment is a chemise, which does not show, except for some lace on the ends of the sleeves. Over this is a full petticoat, or more than one. Then there is the famous collerette, which you can see in the above images. This is attached to a sort of dickey, which hangs over the torso front and back, I think it was originally secured by ribbons, as similar garments in Dutch and German costumes are, we pinned it to the waistband of the petticoat.. The collar itself is very wide, and has lace attached to the front edges. The top edge of the front overlapping pieces is also decorated with lace. The rest of the collar is goffered, like the ruffed collars in Elizabethan costume, but each curl is much smaller. These are made by gathering the collar material into a neckband. Then for each curve, a straw is placed either on the top or bottom, the cloth is wrapped around it, and then the whole thing is starched and ironed to keep the ruffle. [Needless to say, she has not washed it since she acquired it.] The effect is quite stunning, especially when considers the amount of work it takes to make and set. In some variants of the costume, the collarette has quite a curve to it. I do not understand how this is achieved, but it is impressive. Over the collarette, a 'jacket' of heavy wool is worn, called blouse or gilet. It opens down the front, the two sides overlap, and the neckline is cut square and edged with ribbon, trim, and/or rows of embroidery. This is pinned closed. It also has matching rows of ornament on the ends of the sleeves. Lace may be added, or the lace may be attached to the ends of the sleeves of the chemise. Over the blouse, or gilet, a vest or bodice is worn. It is made of the same heavy wool. It has armholes cut large in back, and it is laced tightly in front. It is again decorated with matching ornament around the armholes, the neck, and the front edge. Here is a woman wearing an older form of the costume. You can see rows of embroidery between the rows of sewn on trim and ribbon. In the photo of the rear of the vest above, you will notice a sort of padded 'shelf' on the lower back. A full skirt of the same wool is worn over the bodice, and this helps hold it in place. The hem of the skirt is ornamented in the same way as the blouse and the bodice. The length of the hem varies. Over all of this, an apron is worn. Occasionally you will see one that hangs from the waist. But most commonly, there is a triangular bib attached to the top, which is pinned to the bodice. In England, this was called a 'pin-afore'. It is usually white, off white, or blue, and often trimmed with lace. The length of the apron also varies. It is unfortunately sometimes made of satin today. Open-work gloves, 'mitaines', and black velvet ribbons around the neck elegantly accessorize the outfit. The ribbons sometimes have sequins attached, and often support crosses. What truly sets this costume apart, as is so often the case, is the unique coif. While at first glance it may appear to be bizarre and rather inexplicable, consisting of a pillbox with one or two wide strips of lace attached, in fact it developed from the standard mob cap with long side lappets. If you look at the painting by Sartre above, you will see an early form of this cap. Here is a woman wearing the old-style cap of Pont-Aven that he painted. And here is the cap as worn in Pont-Aven today. The hair is gathered up into a bun on top of the head, or more likely, braided and then pinned up, as in Arles. The cap is then fitted on top of the hair. You may have noticed that there are variations on this basic coif. For example, in Pont-Aven, there is one strip of lace. In Concarneau and some other communities, they have two, like this. Joan bought her coif seperately, on French Ebay, and it is closer to the Concarneau style. In fact, because this basic coif is worn in so many communities, several variations have developed. And that covers the Pont-Aven costume. However, there is in fact another variant, which reflects something that is often seen in the historical development of folk costume. In some communities where they wear this costume, the women at a certain point looked at it and muttered something under their breath probably best not recorded for history. They then decided to simplify. They took the blouse, vest, and skirt and made it all in one piece, thus creating a dress in the modern sense. This has become the costume of these communities, and is still worn with the collarette, coif and apron. It is often of velvet or a rich dark fabric, and an entirely different type of embroidery, often including beadwork has developed for this dress. Some of these communities include Quimperle, Querrien, Benodet, and Tremeven. This is the same woman photographed in 1913 and 1915. One could wish to see her embroidery more clearly. Thank you for reading, i hope you have found this interesting and perhaps inspiring. I will close with just a couple more images which i found on the internet, and one of Joan wearing her costume. Just a couple of videos to show the costume, and let you experience Breton Music. The music is clearly of the Celtic Tradition. This is a group of people doing An Dro, one of the commonest dances of Brittany. Every town does it a little differently. This is how it should be done, in one long line with everybody. This is from a festival, a fest noz, in Riec The costumes are very visible. They are accompanied by a pipe and drum corps. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4D2BngPIS4&feature=related This is a gavotte in the style of Fisel, extensively choreographed for the stage. The music is very good, being a form of Mouth-Music in call and response. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGF8IwhojRA&feature=related And another group doing An Dro. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdSIbI5QWJM&feature=related Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. I also choreograph and teach folk dance. Roman K. [email protected] Source Material: Joseph Jigourel - Yanna Fournier, 'Costumes de Bretagne', Brest, 2000 Pierre Jakez Helias, 'Coiffes et Costumes de Bretagne', 1983 Bruno Helias, 'Breton Costumes', Florence, Italy, 1997 V. Hetet-Roudaut et al, 'La Broderie en Bretagne', Morlaix, 1989 Andre Sainsard, 'Costumes Folkloriques Provinces Françaises', Paris, 1972 Royere, Gardilanne, Moffat et al, 'Les Costumes Regionaux de la France', New York, 1929 Charles-Brun, 'Costumes des Provinces Françaises', Paris, 1937 P. Leroux, 'Costumes Regionaux', Paris, 1940
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Hello all, I received a request to do an overview of the costumes of Brittany [Breizh, Bretagne]. I do not know if this will be in time to help her with her class project, but I had been planning on doing this for a while in any case. I have already done one in-depth article on the costume called Giz-Fouen from Rosparden. Brittany is traditionally divided into two parts, Lower Brittany and Upper Brittany. The lower and upper defined by altitude. Lower Brittany is the western half, where the people speak the Breton Language, which derives from the same root as Welsh and Cornish. Upper Brittany is the eastern half, where the people speak French, and traditionally used the Gallo Language, which is also derived from Latin. The Breton Language has been retreating to the west for some centuries now. Here is a map showing upper and lower Brittany against the traditional provinces. The second map gives the names of the provinces in the Breton Language as well as in French. In France, as in many places, the traditional provinces or regions no longer have any legal standing, purely administrative districts have taken their place for legal and governmental purposes. Some maps that you will see show these administrative regions rather than the traditional cultural regions. Brittany, or Little Britain, was settled by people from the Island of Great Britain who fled their homes during the Anglo-Saxon invasion. For more information about the History, Language and Culture of Brittany, see this article. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brittany There are many costumes in Brittanny, by some counts up to 66, but I will not be able to show them all, in fact I have not found images for all of them. They are also not evenly distributed, there being more costumes and more elaborate and colorful ones in the west. LOWER BRITTANY The four best known and most elaborate costumes are all from the western part of the province of Gernew [Cornouialle]. I will start with these. Giz-Fouen costume from the region of Rosporden and Pont-Aven. I have already done an in depth posting on this costume. Here is the region and the costume itself. Bigouden Costume of Pont l'Abbe. This is perhaps the most famous costume and embroidery of Brittany. Here is the location of the region. The photograph at the top of the article is of a professional embroiderer's shop in this region. You can see the masses of embroidery on the garments they are working on. I find it interesting to see men also engaged in the embroidery. The costumes they are wearing are those of the end of the 19th cent. Here are a couple of photographs, even today some people prefer the old form of the costume. During the early part of the 20th century, the coif continued to grow until it reached monumental proportions. This continued until the advent of automobiles made it inconvenient. The skirts shortened, and the aprons became white with free-form embroidery. The Glazik costume of Kemper [Quimper] This is another well-known costume of Brittany, often featured on the famous pottery of the area. Here is the location of the region. Here is a group performing at a festival in Poznan', Poland. [This photograph is taken from the book 'Ethnic Dress' by Frances Kennett, In the book she implies that this is a Polish dance group, which it clearly is not. Most general books on folk costume, even good ones, have at least one such glaring error. Make sure you check multiple sources.] The exact form of the embroidery, especially on the men's vests, varies by the town. This costume has several variations, some of which are quite reserved. A jacket for the men is part of the costume as well. Alternatively, some versions of the costume are very colorful indeed, as this example from Kerfeunteun. The Costume of Plougastel-Daoulas This is one of the most colorful of all the costumes of Brittany. It is only found in the one city. Here is an older form of the costume. Notice the rich lace and embroidery. Here is a more recent form. The province of Leon. This costume is found in the regions of Brignogan and Plounéour-Trez on the mid-northern coast. Kerlouan, just to the west of the above region, is famous for the cone-shaped coif. Saint-Pol-de-Léon in the northeast corner. Inland Leon The Province of Tregor Tregor is characterized by a small coif with two narrow wings, called the touken. There is also a larger coif called the katiole. The Province of Gwened or Vannes. This province is named after Gwynedd in Wales, another remembrance of the roots of the people of Brittany. The costumes of Gwened or Vannes are characterized by a coif in which the front has developed a flat shield-like shape. Here is an example from Auray. The costume of the Island of Groix, in the Lorient region. Sometimes the entire coif is made of lace which covers the side of the head. Here is the costume of Baud. Sometimes the pinafore apron is highly embroidered. The dances here are just as active and spectacular as in other parts of Brittany. This is the Groupe de Pontivy performing the Gavotte du Pays Pourlet. UPPER BRITTANY There is much less costume material available from Upper Brittany. There is also much less variety in the costumes. I here present what I have been able to find by province. The Province of Sant Brieg [in French, Saint Brieuc or Penthievre]. This is an example of the Burgher's or Town Costume, widespread among the various folklorique groups of Upper Brittany. Province of Sant Malou [Saint Malo] Province of Roazhon [Rennes] Notice the coif has the side lappets folded over the top and pinned in place. Also notice the triskelion on her neckband. This is a very Celtic symbol and one of the National symbols of Breizh [Brittany]. Province of Guerande This is a small province with a very colorful and unique costume. This is known as the costume of the Marsh-Dwellers. Province of Naonaid [Nantes] When the French Government instituted the Departements [administrative regions] to replace the old traditional Provinces, they removed the Bro-Naonaid [pays de Nantes] from Brittany and made it administratively part of the Departement of Loire-Atlantique. The people of Brittany still consider it to be an integral part of their land, however. Historically, the women of Nantes wore a very high coif, somewhat reminiscent of those of Normandy. Here is an image of a couple of girls from Pornic, mid 1800's. Here is the costume of a folkloric group in Vertou. They did a very good job of researching their local materials to make this outfit. You can see many details on their website. http://cercleceltiquevertou.free.fr/dossiercostume.htm A children's perfoming group from Jans. As in many children's groups from many countries, the skirts have been shortened far beyond what any adult would wear. A simple bonnet is worn instead of the adult coif, which is common in many areas. http://filetsbleus.free.fr/groupe/jans.htm Coif and costume from the area of Clisson. Town costume of Nantes itself as presented by the performing group Bleuniadur. http://bleuniadur.over-blog.com/article-2268231.html I would like to emphasize that this is not a comprehensive listing. There are yet other costumes which I have not covered. Thank you for reading, I hope you have found this interesting and informative. Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. I also choreograph and teach folk dance. Roman K. [email protected] Source Material: Joseph Jigourel - Yanna Fournier, 'Costumes de Bretagne', Brest, 2000 Pierre Jakez Helias, 'Coiffes et Costumes de Bretagne', 1983 Bruno Helias, 'Breton Costumes', Florence, Italy, 1997 V. Hetet-Roudaut et al, 'La Broderie en Bretagne', Morlaix, 1989 Andre Sainsard, 'Costumes Folkloriques Provinces Françaises', Paris, 1972 Royere, Gardilanne, Moffat et al, 'Les Costumes Regionaux de la France', New York, 1929 Charles-Brun, 'Costumes des Provinces Françaises', Paris, 1937 P. Leroux, 'Costumes Regionaux', Paris, 1940
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農場,曬金針花,曬金針 Taiwan eastern food Hemerocallis fulva hasselblad 503cx cf50mm fuji film rvp100f 金針花為百合科,又稱萱草,又有別名忘憂草,屬多年生草本,花多朵,顏色淡黃,金針花一般為食用,近幾年由於政府推廣觀光農業,種植金針花的山坡地又頗具美感因而爆紅,此外金針花又可入藥,有清熱涼血,利濕,安神,明目,通乳,寬胸膈,利水止血,解毒等等功效.... 赤科山(赤柯山) 赤科山(赤柯山)位於花蓮縣的玉里鎮,由來該地早期出產質地堅硬的赤科樹,日據時期日本人視它為上等建材而砍伐輸往日本,較小的枝幹則做為槍托使用,赤科山(赤柯山)之名就是由此而來,在赤科山(赤柯山)種植金針花的的農民大部分是台灣西部遷徒而來,由來是民國48年的八七水災,許多西部的農民一夕之間流失了田地房舍,在無地可耕作下,大批遷往地廣人稀的後山,由於東部平原的耕地早已有農民耕作,只好遷往赤科山(赤柯山)山麓或丘陵地帶從事開墾,目前赤科山(赤柯山)的農作物大部分是金針花,每年八月到十月中旬滿山滿谷開滿金針花,形成一片黃澄澄的 花海,既美麗又壯觀. 花蓮縣,花蓮,洄瀾 花蓮古稱奇萊,至於花蓮的由來為花蓮溪向東流入大海,溪水與海濤激盪迂迴澎湃,而有洄瀾之稱,後人取其諧音而稱為花蓮,花蓮縣面積為4628平方公里,人口35萬5000多人,是一個風景秀麗,到處充滿大自然美麗景色的地方.
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