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For the inhabitants of Niue—a knuckle of coral in the emptiness of the South Pacific—existence is precarious. A threadbare coat of soil, a tenuous supply line from distant New Zealand and regular battering from cyclones make the upraised atoll a home from which many are drawn by the prospect of greater economic rewards in Auckland. Yet a determination among its faithful residents to keep alive their culture and traditions may see tourism—managed by the islanders on their own terms—the saviour of this ocean-bound wilderness.

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