Printable Norwegian paper doll dresses bit.ly/15JGdZD

Hello all, Today I will cover the last province of Norway, Hordaland. This is one of the great centers of Norwegian folk costume, having large areas in which the costume continues to be a living tradition to this day. Hordaland is divided into five districts. It also includes the second largest city in Norway, Bergen. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hordaland The folk costumes of this province are mostly similar to each other, being of the bringeduk type, with a separate plastron. As one would expect with a living tradition, individual costumes differ in details, there being room for individual expression. There are also commonly different costumes for married women and unmarried girls, and winter vs summer. The inland areas have traditions that are still living, but many of the coastal regions have reconstructed their costumes based on a wealth of evidence. Sunnhordland This province is along the southern part of the coast. Stord and Bømlo I believe that this bunad is also worn in Sveio, as I have been unable to find any for that municipality. cat 4 Fitjar This municipality has a bunad similar to the others found on the coast, as well as a plain dark drakt called stasklede. both cat 4 This image shows the bunad from Tysnes on the left, and Fitjar on the right. Etne This bunad is distinguished by the embroidered braces which are part of the costume, possibly holding up the skirt as they once did in Tinn. It also has a loose pocket, which most of the costumes in this province do not. cat 4 Kvinnherad The blue hat is worn by both married and unmarried women, and for formal occasions, the women wear a white kerchief, and unmarried girls wear a white hat. The inset tends to be plain cloth with an ornamented band at the top. women cat 2, men cat 4 Tysnes cat 3 Midhordland This consists of the center part of the coast, around the city of Bergen. Fusa The bunad as worn today is a reconstruction of the clothing worn in the early to mid 1800s. The blue cap was worn by both girls and women, but women wore the white kerchief over it for formal occasions. This municipality is just across the fjord from Kvinnherad, so there are similarities. It is somewhat short waisted, and a variety of aprons are used. cat 3 Samnanger cat 4 Os The reconstructed bunad of Os represents the mid 1800s, cat 3 This is the way that unmarried girls dressed their hair. Hair was never worn loose in public except on her wedding day. The bunad as redesigned in the early 20th cent. cat 4 Austevoll The hair in all of these areas that have strong memories of tradition was put up in braids or twists, covered by a linen cap, and the headdress worn on top in such a way that none of the hair was visible. A kerchief is worn over the cap for formal occasions, with white embroidery for unmarried girls and black embroidery for married women. Men would wear an embroidered linen scarf on such occasions. woman cat 3, men cat 4 Sotra This is an island north of Austevoll, which consists of the municipalities of Sund and Fjell. Married women wear a green vest with red sleeves, and unmarried girls wear the opposite. Both wear the black winter bunad. cat 4 Askøy This municipality consists of an island group northeast of Stord and northwest of the current municipality of Bergen. cat 4 Laksevåg This was a former municipality which has been combined with a few others into the municipality of Bergen. It is now a borough of the Bergen Municipality. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laksev%C3%A5g The bunad is cat 4 The woman on the left is from Laksevag, the woman on the right is from Os. Fana This was a former municipality which is also now a borough of the municipality of Bergen. It consists of the entire southern part of the current Bergen Municipality. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fana The folk costume - bunad of this area has never ceased being a living tradition. The married women's costume is distinguished by the kerchief over the head rail, while unmarried girls wear a headband. The girls' bodice is edged in blue, while the women's is green or patterned silk. The apron features open work of many kinds, hardangersom, crochet, and other techniques are used. The apron may also be of printed cloth, however it always has a notched or toothed edge, unlike the other regions of Hordaland. The men wear two vests, one over the other. cat 1 Bergen City The city itself has two designed drakts of the livkjol type. They are the only such costumes in Hordaland. Bergendrakt The embroidery was taken from an old shawl. This embroidery was applied to the whole costume. On the skirt the embroidery was not altered to fit, but simply executed in L shapes around the hem. There is no apron. As Bergen is a major city, this drakt is very popular. cat 5 Much less well known is the Bjørgvindrakt cat 5 Nordhordland There is one man's bunad for Nordhordland cat 4 Outer Nordhordland There is a recently reconstructed bunad with a green jacket inside the bodice. The girls' hair is wrapped in ribbons and then wound around the top of the head. Married women wear a bag shaped kerchief. cat 3 This girl is wearing her hair incorrectly, loose under a fake hair roll. There is also a version of the bunad which was designed in the early 20th cent. cat 4 Osterøy This is very similar to the previous bunad, but there is a padded roll under the women's headdress, and the pleated skirt has a green hem, as in Voss. cat 4 Masfjorden There is a version of this bunad which was designed in the 1970s. cat 4 There is also a more recently reconstructed version which differs little. cat 3 Voss Both of the inland costumes represent unbroken living traditions. Voss has separate bunads for marrried women and single girls. It also has a summer and winter bunad, which is very common for Hordaland. Married women have a deep green hem on the skirt edged with silver lace, while unmarried girls have three narrow black velvet bands. Married women also wear the headpiece. There are two types of jacket worn with this bunad, one which shows the stomacher, the bringeduk, and one which closes down the middle. women cat 1, men cat 4 Hardanger The district of Hardanger is generally considered to have one bunad, which is a living tradition. There is a great deal of variety in the ornamentation of the bodice inset, both beadwork and embroidery. Previously the bodice was of many colors and materials, but under the influence of the National Bunad, it is almost always red today. The white apron with hardangersom is worn for formal occasions, but other aprons are worn as well. There is also a winter bunad here, as is the case in the rest of Hordaland. I will cover some of the distinctions between the regions, which do not always follow the municipalities. Generally, most of the images which are just labelled Hardanger are from Ullensvang or Sorfjorden, or are of the old National costume. women cat 1, men cat 4 Ulvik, Eidfjord and Granvin The women's bunad is distinct in a couple of different ways. Firstly, the bodice opening does not have a notch, but extends smoothly from the closure to the neck, similar to the Voss bunad. Secondly, the married women wear a different headpiece, consisting of a kerchief worn over a head rail, somewhat similar to that of Fana. Both summer and winter bunads are shown in the following images. The men's bunad varies, that of Granvin and Ulvik each being distinct, and that of Eidfjord being shared with Ullensvang and Sorfjorden. Ulvik Granvin Eidfjord The western regions have a woman's headdress that is similar from one to another, but of a somewhat different shape. It is finely pleated and starched to obtain its distinctive form. The men of Ullensvang and Sorfjorden wear the same bunad as they do in Eidfjord. The men of Kvam and Jondal each have a distinct bunad. In Torvikbygd the mean wear the Jondal bunad, even though the town is in Kvam. Ullensvang In this photo, the headdress does not have the fold which is found in the versions further west. I have only found one photo of this exact type of headdress, so I am not certain if this is an actual distinction. The man is wearing the red 'bridegroom's jacket'. Kvam. In Kvam the headdress has the fold by the temples, but the headdress itself is a somewhat different shape, being higher and rounder in front. You will sometimes see women from Kvam wearing the more general headdress though. The men wear a distinct bunad with a green vest and patterned stockings. Jondal The women's costume is very close to that of Sorfjorden, differing only in minor details. There is only one band hanging from the belt. In the above regions there usually tend to be two. The man's bunad is distinct, and is also worn in Torvikbygd. Sørfjorden This means south fjord, and refers to a side fjord which extends to the south from the main Hardangerfjord. The area around this fjord is home to the classic version of the Hardanger bunad and folk costume. It includes the northernwestern parts of Ullensvang and Odda municipalities. Married women wear the flat top version of the headdress, as they do in Jondal, and which is often seen in other parts of Hardanger as well. They may also wear three bands hanging from the belt with the formal costume. Unmarried girls wear their hair in braids, and may wrap them with ribbons and put them up. Little girls wear a bonnet. The bodice and jacket both have the notch in front, as do all of the western variants. The bodice may be of many materials or colors. The plastron, or bodice inset has hundreds of different designs, executed in either beadwork, applique, or embroidery of various kinds, or in a combination of techniques. My next article will be an overview of different types of insets. The blouses may have Hardanger embroidery, other whitework, or blackwork. Røldal This is a former municipality which currently makes up the southeastern part of Odda municipality. It was originally part of Suldal parish, which lies further down the same valley and which today is in Rogaland. The bunad is distinct. cat 4 Nasjonal or National bunad This was popular at the beginning of the 20th century, especially in areas which had not yet developed or reconstructed their own bunads. It is a simplified form of the Hardanger bunad, using simplified beadwork for the inset, a red bodice to reflect the national flag, and a beaded version of the little girls' bonnet for all women. This concludes my overview of Norwegian costume. I will certainly do more articles on individual subjects in Norway in the future as well. Thank you for reading. I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. Roman K email:[email protected] Source Material: Source Material: Aagot Noss, 'Draktskikk i Aust-Telemark', Oslo, 2010 Kari-Anne Pedersen, 'Folkedrakt blir Bunad', Cappelen Damm, 2013 Bjorn Sverre hol Haugen, 'Norsk Bunadleksikon' Oslo, 2009 Kjersti Skavhaug et al, 'Norwegian Bunads', Oslo, 1991 Heidi Fossnes, 'Norges Bunader og Samiske Folkedrakter', Oslo, 1993 Ellen Scheel et al, 'Bunad-Brodering', Oslo, 1997 Janice Stewart, 'The Folk Arts of Norway', University of Wisconsin, 1953 Guvnor Traetteberg, 'Folk Costumes of Norway', Oslo, 1966, 1976 Thorbjorg Ugland, 'A Sampler of Norway's Folk Costumes', Oslo, 1996 Laila Duran, 'Scandinavian Folklore vol I - III', Sweden, 2011-2013 Laila Duran, 'Populaere Bunader', 2014

The tradition of using Bridal Crowns is by no means only Norwegian. In most cultures, even today, it is customary that the bride is dressed up in spectacular fashion, and often time special headdre…

Post Card- Papirdukken Kristine OG Vesle-Kari Med Norske Bunader- Norwegian National Costumes Mariette Produkter- Valdres-Gudbrandsdal, Rondaskken Size 8.25 inch (21.00 cm) by 5.75 inch (14.6 cm) Unused- In Excellent condition- Suitable for framing- Send greetings for Valentines, Easter, Birthdays, - Invitations, Save the date, Invite to a Birthday party Share a memory for a 2024 birthday greeting. Check out another post card: https://www.etsy.com/your/shops/me/listing-editor/edit/1426986468/about Check out my board and card games for all ages: www.anriasgames.com DIY: Create a shadow box. Example is Christmas but use your imagination for other themes: https://www.kcedventures.com/blog/handmade-ornaments-for-kids-vintage-dioramas Use post cards to make a unique junk journal: Craft Project: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/99642210492627191/ Why not create a Writing Back to School Basket with some unique post cards, stationary, stamps, and variety of pens? Add some candy or a cupcake. Add an Etsy gift card for a great teen gift. Check out my store that sells games and vintage cookbooks and serving ware! https://www.etsy.com/shop/AnriasGames Please follow: https://www.pinterest.com/anriasgames/ https://www.pinterest.com/anriasgames/7bloxup/ https://www.pinterest.com/anriasgames/mother-or-just-mom/

The Norwegian folk dress has gained in popularity in recent years. A 20th century invention based on traditional folk costumes, the bunad is available for both men and women.

For centuries, it has been a tradition for Norwegian Brides to wear a Crown on their wedding day: The Bridal Crown Tradition never died, although the wearing of traditional folk costumes called …

Hello all, Today I will cover the last province of Norway, Hordaland. This is one of the great centers of Norwegian folk costume, having large areas in which the costume continues to be a living tradition to this day. Hordaland is divided into five districts. It also includes the second largest city in Norway, Bergen. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hordaland The folk costumes of this province are mostly similar to each other, being of the bringeduk type, with a separate plastron. As one would expect with a living tradition, individual costumes differ in details, there being room for individual expression. There are also commonly different costumes for married women and unmarried girls, and winter vs summer. The inland areas have traditions that are still living, but many of the coastal regions have reconstructed their costumes based on a wealth of evidence. Sunnhordland This province is along the southern part of the coast. Stord and Bømlo I believe that this bunad is also worn in Sveio, as I have been unable to find any for that municipality. cat 4 Fitjar This municipality has a bunad similar to the others found on the coast, as well as a plain dark drakt called stasklede. both cat 4 This image shows the bunad from Tysnes on the left, and Fitjar on the right. Etne This bunad is distinguished by the embroidered braces which are part of the costume, possibly holding up the skirt as they once did in Tinn. It also has a loose pocket, which most of the costumes in this province do not. cat 4 Kvinnherad The blue hat is worn by both married and unmarried women, and for formal occasions, the women wear a white kerchief, and unmarried girls wear a white hat. The inset tends to be plain cloth with an ornamented band at the top. women cat 2, men cat 4 Tysnes cat 3 Midhordland This consists of the center part of the coast, around the city of Bergen. Fusa The bunad as worn today is a reconstruction of the clothing worn in the early to mid 1800s. The blue cap was worn by both girls and women, but women wore the white kerchief over it for formal occasions. This municipality is just across the fjord from Kvinnherad, so there are similarities. It is somewhat short waisted, and a variety of aprons are used. cat 3 Samnanger cat 4 Os The reconstructed bunad of Os represents the mid 1800s, cat 3 This is the way that unmarried girls dressed their hair. Hair was never worn loose in public except on her wedding day. The bunad as redesigned in the early 20th cent. cat 4 Austevoll The hair in all of these areas that have strong memories of tradition was put up in braids or twists, covered by a linen cap, and the headdress worn on top in such a way that none of the hair was visible. A kerchief is worn over the cap for formal occasions, with white embroidery for unmarried girls and black embroidery for married women. Men would wear an embroidered linen scarf on such occasions. woman cat 3, men cat 4 Sotra This is an island north of Austevoll, which consists of the municipalities of Sund and Fjell. Married women wear a green vest with red sleeves, and unmarried girls wear the opposite. Both wear the black winter bunad. cat 4 Askøy This municipality consists of an island group northeast of Stord and northwest of the current municipality of Bergen. cat 4 Laksevåg This was a former municipality which has been combined with a few others into the municipality of Bergen. It is now a borough of the Bergen Municipality. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laksev%C3%A5g The bunad is cat 4 The woman on the left is from Laksevag, the woman on the right is from Os. Fana This was a former municipality which is also now a borough of the municipality of Bergen. It consists of the entire southern part of the current Bergen Municipality. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fana The folk costume - bunad of this area has never ceased being a living tradition. The married women's costume is distinguished by the kerchief over the head rail, while unmarried girls wear a headband. The girls' bodice is edged in blue, while the women's is green or patterned silk. The apron features open work of many kinds, hardangersom, crochet, and other techniques are used. The apron may also be of printed cloth, however it always has a notched or toothed edge, unlike the other regions of Hordaland. The men wear two vests, one over the other. cat 1 Bergen City The city itself has two designed drakts of the livkjol type. They are the only such costumes in Hordaland. Bergendrakt The embroidery was taken from an old shawl. This embroidery was applied to the whole costume. On the skirt the embroidery was not altered to fit, but simply executed in L shapes around the hem. There is no apron. As Bergen is a major city, this drakt is very popular. cat 5 Much less well known is the Bjørgvindrakt cat 5 Nordhordland There is one man's bunad for Nordhordland cat 4 Outer Nordhordland There is a recently reconstructed bunad with a green jacket inside the bodice. The girls' hair is wrapped in ribbons and then wound around the top of the head. Married women wear a bag shaped kerchief. cat 3 This girl is wearing her hair incorrectly, loose under a fake hair roll. There is also a version of the bunad which was designed in the early 20th cent. cat 4 Osterøy This is very similar to the previous bunad, but there is a padded roll under the women's headdress, and the pleated skirt has a green hem, as in Voss. cat 4 Masfjorden There is a version of this bunad which was designed in the 1970s. cat 4 There is also a more recently reconstructed version which differs little. cat 3 Voss Both of the inland costumes represent unbroken living traditions. Voss has separate bunads for marrried women and single girls. It also has a summer and winter bunad, which is very common for Hordaland. Married women have a deep green hem on the skirt edged with silver lace, while unmarried girls have three narrow black velvet bands. Married women also wear the headpiece. There are two types of jacket worn with this bunad, one which shows the stomacher, the bringeduk, and one which closes down the middle. women cat 1, men cat 4 Hardanger The district of Hardanger is generally considered to have one bunad, which is a living tradition. There is a great deal of variety in the ornamentation of the bodice inset, both beadwork and embroidery. Previously the bodice was of many colors and materials, but under the influence of the National Bunad, it is almost always red today. The white apron with hardangersom is worn for formal occasions, but other aprons are worn as well. There is also a winter bunad here, as is the case in the rest of Hordaland. I will cover some of the distinctions between the regions, which do not always follow the municipalities. Generally, most of the images which are just labelled Hardanger are from Ullensvang or Sorfjorden, or are of the old National costume. women cat 1, men cat 4 Ulvik, Eidfjord and Granvin The women's bunad is distinct in a couple of different ways. Firstly, the bodice opening does not have a notch, but extends smoothly from the closure to the neck, similar to the Voss bunad. Secondly, the married women wear a different headpiece, consisting of a kerchief worn over a head rail, somewhat similar to that of Fana. Both summer and winter bunads are shown in the following images. The men's bunad varies, that of Granvin and Ulvik each being distinct, and that of Eidfjord being shared with Ullensvang and Sorfjorden. Ulvik Granvin Eidfjord The western regions have a woman's headdress that is similar from one to another, but of a somewhat different shape. It is finely pleated and starched to obtain its distinctive form. The men of Ullensvang and Sorfjorden wear the same bunad as they do in Eidfjord. The men of Kvam and Jondal each have a distinct bunad. In Torvikbygd the mean wear the Jondal bunad, even though the town is in Kvam. Ullensvang In this photo, the headdress does not have the fold which is found in the versions further west. I have only found one photo of this exact type of headdress, so I am not certain if this is an actual distinction. The man is wearing the red 'bridegroom's jacket'. Kvam. In Kvam the headdress has the fold by the temples, but the headdress itself is a somewhat different shape, being higher and rounder in front. You will sometimes see women from Kvam wearing the more general headdress though. The men wear a distinct bunad with a green vest and patterned stockings. Jondal The women's costume is very close to that of Sorfjorden, differing only in minor details. There is only one band hanging from the belt. In the above regions there usually tend to be two. The man's bunad is distinct, and is also worn in Torvikbygd. Sørfjorden This means south fjord, and refers to a side fjord which extends to the south from the main Hardangerfjord. The area around this fjord is home to the classic version of the Hardanger bunad and folk costume. It includes the northernwestern parts of Ullensvang and Odda municipalities. Married women wear the flat top version of the headdress, as they do in Jondal, and which is often seen in other parts of Hardanger as well. They may also wear three bands hanging from the belt with the formal costume. Unmarried girls wear their hair in braids, and may wrap them with ribbons and put them up. Little girls wear a bonnet. The bodice and jacket both have the notch in front, as do all of the western variants. The bodice may be of many materials or colors. The plastron, or bodice inset has hundreds of different designs, executed in either beadwork, applique, or embroidery of various kinds, or in a combination of techniques. My next article will be an overview of different types of insets. The blouses may have Hardanger embroidery, other whitework, or blackwork. Røldal This is a former municipality which currently makes up the southeastern part of Odda municipality. It was originally part of Suldal parish, which lies further down the same valley and which today is in Rogaland. The bunad is distinct. cat 4 Nasjonal or National bunad This was popular at the beginning of the 20th century, especially in areas which had not yet developed or reconstructed their own bunads. It is a simplified form of the Hardanger bunad, using simplified beadwork for the inset, a red bodice to reflect the national flag, and a beaded version of the little girls' bonnet for all women. This concludes my overview of Norwegian costume. I will certainly do more articles on individual subjects in Norway in the future as well. Thank you for reading. I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. Roman K email:[email protected] Source Material: Source Material: Aagot Noss, 'Draktskikk i Aust-Telemark', Oslo, 2010 Kari-Anne Pedersen, 'Folkedrakt blir Bunad', Cappelen Damm, 2013 Bjorn Sverre hol Haugen, 'Norsk Bunadleksikon' Oslo, 2009 Kjersti Skavhaug et al, 'Norwegian Bunads', Oslo, 1991 Heidi Fossnes, 'Norges Bunader og Samiske Folkedrakter', Oslo, 1993 Ellen Scheel et al, 'Bunad-Brodering', Oslo, 1997 Janice Stewart, 'The Folk Arts of Norway', University of Wisconsin, 1953 Guvnor Traetteberg, 'Folk Costumes of Norway', Oslo, 1966, 1976 Thorbjorg Ugland, 'A Sampler of Norway's Folk Costumes', Oslo, 1996 Laila Duran, 'Scandinavian Folklore vol I - III', Sweden, 2011-2013 Laila Duran, 'Populaere Bunader', 2014

Hello all, This is the second part of my overview of the costumes of Norway. This will cover the central row of provinces in Eastern Norway, the yellow and orange ones on the map below, minus the ones I covered in the first article. This includes the provinces of Oppland, Buskerud, Telemark, and East and West Agder. All of these have at least some areas in which folk costumes were a living tradition or within living memory at the beginning of the 20th cent. The National Bunad Council Bunad- og Folkedraktrådet , the authority on national costumes appointed by the government, has developed five categories to grade modern day bunads according to ‘authentic’ regional folk clothing: Category 1 – a bunad that represents a final link in the development of a folk costume. This is basically an original folk costume that has taken on the function of a bunad. Category 2 – a bunad that has a background in a particular folk costume that is out of use but not forgotten. It is generally reconstructed from first-hand knowledge, with many examples extant. Category 3 – a bunad that has been reconstructed from preserved folk garments which reflect the actual time and region of the piece. Pictures and writings may be used as sources in reconstruction. Category 4 – a bunad that has been made based on random and incomplete folk material. Missing pieces have been designed to match the style of the materials. Category 5 – a bunad that has been completely or partially freely composed. It was the 1800s bunad movement that has given these types of bunad their status. New bunads are being designed every year, and must go through the strict judgement process of the National Bunad Council in order to be classified as a proper ‘bunad’. The council is very strict in making sure new additions follow closely the traditions and history of the area. Because of this, many designs today, even though they have the same function as a bunad, generally don’t make the cut and thus can not be called ‘bunads’. They receive the name ‘drakt’ instead. . Costumes are readily available in Norway, there are many businesses which make them. These are called Husflid. They are, however, expensive, as the Norwegians believe in paying a living wage to people who do things like embroider or weave by hand. For every one of these costumes, whether bunad or drakt, there is at least one sewing house, or husflid, which specializes in making it. So let us continue. Oppland This is divided into the three districts of Vestoppland, Gudbrandsdal, and Valdres. The image at the top of the article is one of the bunads from Gudbrandsdal which has never gone out of usage, the Rondestakken. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oppland Vestoppland One of the costumes which represent this region was designed by the noted artist Alf Lundeby in 1932. The Lundeby costume comes in black, blue, or white. It remains very popular. Lundeby Drakt cat 5 Vestoppland Bunad This was designed in 1937 from pieces found in different parts of Vestoppland. cat 5 The next three costumes each represent a part of Vestoppland. Hadeland Bunad Hadeland is the southern part of Vestoppland, around Randsfjord. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hadeland The Hadeland Bunad is an accurate reconstruction of the local dress in the mid 1800s. It was made in plaids of different colors. Plaids are common in several neighboring districts as well. Girls wore a pale cap, married women a black one. The cap had a lace ruffle, similar to that in some Danish costumes. Like with all bunads, an underskirt must be worn. cat 3 Toten is in the east central part of Vestoppland. Toten drakt This design was finalized in 1971, based on pieces of costume found in this area. men cat 5, women cat 4 Land, or Nordre Land, is in the northern part of Vestoppland. Landingsdrakt Work on the costume started in 1927 and was finalized in 1980. The embroidery was taken from an old shawl found in Hadeland. cat 5 Gudbrandsdal Gudbrandsdal is a valley which extends from Lillehammer to the northwest. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gudbrand_Valley The men wear a red wool plaid vest, or, for more formal occasions, a brocade vest may be worn. Sometimes an older form of frock coat may be worn as well. This is shown in the second image. cat 4 Rondastakken or Livkjol cat 1 This bunad is part of a living tradition in the valley. It is not designed or reconstructed.The most recent version is called rondastakken, which means 'striped skirt'. These were made with homewoven cloth, striped for the skirt, and plaid for the attached bodice. Livkjol means 'bodice skirt' and refers to the construction. Other types of cloth were also used in the past, and these have now come back into use. It was known that in the early 1800's it was the fashion to wear embroidered skirts. Some of these skirts have been preserved in museums. Embroidery from these skirts were copied onto wool and used to make a livkjol with an embroidered skirt. This was the origin of the Gudbrandsdal Bunad. The original skirt for this embroidery was from Lom. cat 4 The same embroidery was used in the 1920s to make the Gudbrandsdal Formal bunad. The bodice was also made of wook most often of the same color and also received embroidery, as did the pocket. An apron with matching embroidery was also sometimes worn. This became very popular and was the origin of the Embroidered Bunad type which was copied in so many places around Norway with different embroidery patterns, several of which we have already seen. cat 5 Another designed bunad used embroidery from a skirt found at the Graffer Farm. This is called the Graffer Bunad and remains very popular today. cat 4 Jorde Bunad This was designed by Maria Jorde from Bøverdal in Lom. cat 5 Other similar bunads represent particular parts of Gudbrandsdal. Lesja Bunad or Rutastakk cat 2 Gausdals Bunad cat 4 Dovre Bunad cat 5 Lillehammer Bunad. This comes in blue with multicolored embroidery, or green or red with monochromatic gold embroidery of the same design. cat 5 Valdres This valley lies in the southern part of Oppland. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valdres Rutastakken This is the Valdres equivalent of the Rondestakken of Gudbrandsdal. In this bunad, the skirt as well as the bodice is plaid, of many kinds. The matching mens costume also features a plaid wool vest and a black jacket. This was common in the second half of the 19th cent. cat 3 Valdres has two livkjol type embroidered bunads. The 'Old' Valdres Bunad This was designed in 1914. cat 5 The 'New' Valdres Bunad This was designed in 1948. cat 5 The South. or lower Valdres Bunad cat 3 Upper Valdres Bunad, or Bringedukdrakt This has been established as the bunad for Upper Valdres, namely Vang and Slidre. The second term refers to the stomacher or plastron which is inserted into the bodice. This was typical for the first half of the 19th cent. The everyday costume is plain blue. cat 3 Buskerud Buskerud borders on Oslo on the southeast, but also extends up into two major mountain valleys, Hallingdal and Nemedal. These border Valdres, Telemark and Hordaland, all areas in which the costume tradition is strong. There are also smaller distinct areas in central Buskerud, Ringerike in the north, and the coherent costume region of Siggdal-Eggedal-Krødsherad in the center. The lowland areas lost their costume tradition early, but the high mountain valleys were still wearing their traditional costumes at the beginning of the 20th century when the bunad movement began. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buskerud Ringerike This is just downstream from Valdres in the same valley. In the past it was an independent fief. It extends south to the province of Oslo. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ringerike_(traditional_district) There is both a local drakt cat 4 and an embroidered bunad. cat 5 Mends bunad is cat 3 Ådal is a valley in the municipality of Ringerike They have their own embroidered bunad, designed in 1938 cat 5 Hønefoss This bunad was designed in 1954 cat 5 Lower Buskerud This is shown in light blue on the map with the exception of Ringerike. In these low lying areas close to the capitol, the bunads are designed or recreated. There is an embroidered bunad, cat 5,which was designed in 1939 for all of Lower Buskerud: Eiker, Lier, Drammen, Modum, Hurum, Sandsvaer and Røyken. Some of these also have their own bunads or drakten. Hurum Bunad This was a free composition in 1994 cat 5 Røyken drakt A free composition in 1992 cat 5 Lier Bunad This was a free composition completed in 1974. men cat 4, women cat 5 Modum drakt cat 5 Eiker drakt cat 5 Kongsberg drakt cat 5 Hallingdal This is one of the most famous valleys of Norway for costume, embroidery and folklore. These three valleys have distinct costumes, but they intergrade from one to the other. I have written an article on Hallingdal already. I may have to update it, as I have learned more since I wrote it. http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2012/06/bunad-and-rosemaling-embroidery-of.html This is an area where the local costume is well remembered, and there are many examples to be found around the valley. Upper Hallingdal cat 1 This consists of the municipalities of Hol and Ål. This man is in a Rogaland Bunad, not Hallingdal The upper Hallingdal bunad is noted for its embroidery, an extremely short bodice, black apron for the dress bunad, and quite complex headdresses for both married women and single girls, as seen in the last two images above. Hulda Garborg, who was so instrumental in reviving interest in Norwegian folk costumes in the early 20th cent. thought that it was important to make the costumes modern and easy to wear. She took this costume and simplified it. Perhaps the biggest change is that she replaced the headdress with a simple embroidered cap similar to that worn in Lower Hallingdal. This simplified bunad became very popular, and many people mistakenly believe it to be the authentic Upper Hallingdal bunad. Here are some examples. Lower Hallingal This consists of the municipalities of Hemsedal, Gol, and Nes. The costumes are quite similar to that of Upper Hallingdal, but they traditionally wore the cap, they used a flowered or plaid apron for the formal costume, and there are other minor differences. They sometimes wore a kerchief tied around the cap, as is the custom in mid Buskerud. cat 1 There are two mens bunads, one is rather plain black, cat 1, and the other is highly embroidered, cat 4. The second is very popular with men all over Norway who want a colorful embroidered bunad. The everyday bunad from Hallingdal is also well remembered and still worn. It has no apron and is black or plaid. Mid Buskerud This consists of Sigdal - Eggedal, Krødsherad, and sometimes Flå. Flå This municipality is technically in Lower Hallingdal, but the costume is perhaps closer to the Mid Buskerud costume. cat 4 Sigdal - Eggedal, Krødsherad cat 3 Numedal This lies over the mountains south of Hallingdal, and is north of Telemark. Mans bunad There are three. The gray jacket is used all over the valley, but there are also two different black bunads for Lower and upper Numedal Gray Jacket cat 2 Lower Numedal mens bunad with round jacket cat 3 Upper Numedal mens bunad with short jacket. cat 3 Lower Numedal, Flesberg cat 2 Upper Numedal cat 3 There is also an embroidered bunad which was designed for Numedal in 1938. cat 4 Telemark https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telemark Telemark is perhaps the richest province in Norway as regards costumes. The costumes were a living tradition well into the 20th cent. There are many examples of different embroideries and cuts. However, many of these reflect individual variations and different time periods. There are only three costume districts in Telemark: East Telemark, West Telemark and Tinn. This map also separates the coastal area. This was distinct culturally, but did not keep much in the way of costume. I have written a series of articles on Telemark already. http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2014/05/beltestakk-and-gratrje-costumes-of-east.html http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2014/05/gratrje-costume-of-east-telemark-norway.html http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2014/05/east-telemark-norway-embroidered-shirts.html http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2014/05/east-telemark-norway-socks-and-shoes.html http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2012/06/costume-and-rosemaling-embroidery-of.html Tinn Mens Bunad cat 3 Omslagsliv The embroidered bands which cross over the shoulders were originally suspenders which held up the skirt. The bodice was attached to the second underskirt. The embroidery is often done freehand, and there is much individual variation. cat 1 Skjaelingskleda This is an older costume from the early 1800s which shows the influence of neighboring Numedal. cat 3 East Telemark Mans bunad with gray jacket cat 2 This is the most common version. It comes from the same period as the beltestakk. Stakk og Liv This means skirt and bodice. It is the most recent and simplest form of the East Telemark folk costume which was in use into the 1970s. cat 1 Beltestakk cat 2 This is an older form of the costume which was revived. It has a great deal of ornament in the form of ribbon, but has embroidery only on the shirt. The skirt is exceptionally full, which makes it fun to dance in. Because of the lack of embroidery, it is fairly inexpensive and very popular today. It is named after the very wide card woven sash which is an integral part of this costume. Raudtroje This means red jacket and is the common embroidered form of the East Telemark Bunad. It is based on an even older form of the folk costume. cat 3 - West Telemark The costume and embroidery tradition is just as rich in West Telemark. The various costume types are associated with different periods of history. The older, more elaborately embroidered forms were used as the basis for the modern bunad. Raudsaumsbunad This is the most recent form of the costume, this came into being around 1910. This was thought at the time to be stylishly modern. It reintroduced the old embroidery on the bodice. cat 1 Fløyesliv This bunad was in use roughly from 1895 to 1915 or so. It is distinguished by the embroidered bib attached to the front of the bodice. The apron was sometimes embroidered. cat 2 Rundtroje This is the most recent living form of the mans bunad in plain black. It matches the two womens bunads above. cat 1 Bringeklutbunad and Gray Jacket bunad These were worn in the early to mid 1800s by women and men, respectively. Relatively recently they have been reconstructed and begun to be worn again. cat 3 Vest Telemark bunad The most popular bunad today is the elaborately embroidered one which was worn even earlier, roughly from 1750 to 1850. cat 4 Drangedal This is a coastal area. To my knowledge this is the only coastal costume to be reconstructed in Telemark. cat 4 Agder In ancient times this was a petty kingdom, The name is so old that the meaning of it has been lost. Today it is divided into two provinces, West Agder and East Agder. This is the southernmost point of Norway. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agder This area is small, and I am surprised that It was divided in two. It is sometimes referred to as the southland. It includes Setesdal in which the folk costume is a living tradition, and coastal areas which have revived theirs. You will notice part of the coast is depicted in white with the heading 'unspecified'. Setesdal This district holds much the same position in Norway that Andalusia does in Spain. The costume is iconic for the country, but is not at all typical. cat 1 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Setesdal The everyday costume for the women is a white jumper with black bands on the hem. The men wear a sort of overall. For Sundays and feast days, a second black jumper with bands of red and green on the hem was worn over this. The men put on an embroidered vest with either a fancy knitted sweater or short embroidered jacket. Åmli The bunad was reconstructed from old costume pieces in 1926. There are various kerchiefs and aprons preserved with different embroidery designs. cat 4 Iveland This began to be reconstructed in 1917. This bunad may be worn with a variety of embroidered pockets, many of which are to be found. Very similar pockets are also worn in West Agder. cat 4 West Agder There is only one bunad for most of West Agder. The striped skirt is worn by unmarried girls or by married women on regular days. On feastdays married women wear a finely pleated black skirt. The colorful high headdress was worn by married women. Girls wore a lower one which was much less ornamented. The skirt was held up by buttoning it to woven suspenders. Shawls with various embroidery patterns were also worn. As in Iveland, the embroidery on the pockets varied quite a bit. cat 4 Here are some embroidered shawls from West Agder with the names of the locations in which they were found. Sirdal cat 4 This is the northernmost valley of Vest Agder There is also an Agderdrakt which is a free composition for all of Agder. It features several local wildflowers. I have only seen one photo of it.\ cat 5 This concludes part 2. Thank you for reading. I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. I hope that some of you might be inspired to try some of the incredible embroidery which is found in this area. email: [email protected] Source Material: Bjorn Sverre hol Haugen, 'Norsk Bunadleksikon' Oslo, 2009 Kjersti Skavhaug et al, 'Norwegian Bunads', Oslo, 1991 Heidi Fossnes, 'Norges Bunader og Samiske Folkedrakter', Oslo, 1993 Ellen Scheel et al, 'Bunad-Brodering', Oslo, 1997 Janice Stewart, 'The Folk Arts of Norway', University of Wisconsin, 1953 Guvnor Traetteberg, 'Folk Costumes of Norway', Oslo, 1966, 1976 Thorbjorg Ugland, 'A Sampler of Norway's Folk Costumes', Oslo, 1996 Laila Duran, 'Scandinavian Folklore vol I - III', Sweden, 2011-2013

Hello all, Today I will cover the last province of Norway, Hordaland. This is one of the great centers of Norwegian folk costume, hav...

Hello all, This is the second part of my overview of the costumes of Norway. This will cover the central row of provinces in Eastern N...

Hello all, this is part three of my overview of Norway, even if I published them out of order. This will cover the west of Norway from south to north, with the exception of Hordaland, which will be the subject of my next article. This area is in shades of pink on the map below. The National Bunad Council Bunad- og Folkedraktrådet , the authority on national costumes appointed by the government, has developed five categories to grade modern day bunads according to ‘authentic’ regional folk clothing: Category 1 – a bunad that represents a ‘final’ link’ in the development of a folk costume. This is basically an original folk costume that has taken on the function of a bunad. Category 2 – a bunad that has a background in a particular folk costume that is out of use but not forgotten. It is generally reconstructed from first-hand knowledge. Actual old garments exist. Category 3 – a bunad that has been reconstructed from preserved folk garments which reflect the actual time and region of the piece. Pictures and writings are used as sources in reconstruction. Category 4 – a bunad that has been made based on random and incomplete folk material. Missing pieces have been designed to match the style of the materials. Category 5 – a bunad that has been completely or partially ‘freely composed’. It was the 1800s bunad movement that has given these types of bunad their status. New ‘bunads’ that are being designed every year, must go through the strict judgement process of the National Bunad Council in order to be classified as a proper ‘bunad’. The council is very strict in making sure new additions follow closely the traditions and history of the area. Because of this, many designs today, even though they have the same function as a bunad, generally don’t make the cut and thus can not be called ‘bunads’. They receive the name drakt. Costumes are readily available in Norway, there are many businesses which make them. These are called Husflid. They are, however, expensive, as the Norwegians believe in paying a living wage to people who do things like embroider or weave by hand. For every one of these costumes, whether bunad or drakt, there is at least one sewing house, or husflid, which specializes in making it. So let us continue. Rogaland This is the center of Norway's petroleum industry. The name seems to be taken from that of an ancient Norse tribe that lived in this area. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rogaland There is only one bunad for this province that has any historical authenticity. It is worn over the entire province. There are various local costumes, but they are all mostly made up, cat 5. I will cover them after. Rogaland Mens Bunad There are two men's bunads. Both are in common usage. There was a very sharp one designed in the 1920's, after various museum pieces. It features a vest of patterned brocade, and red piping on the jacket and breeches or pants. cat 4 The second is a more recent reconstruction of an older, more colorful type of costume from the early 1800s. It was designed in 1986. cat 3 Rogaland Womens Bunad There is one bunad, but it comes in several variations. The caps and shawls are copies of actual old garments. As several of them were found, the embroidery of any of them may be used. These variants are named for the districts in which they were found. The same embroidery is copied onto the aprons and pockets. The bodice is of silk damask or brocade, and can be one of many colors. It may be waistlength or have a gathered peplum. The skirts are plain, but may be black, blue, or green. The caps may be trimmed with lace, and sometimes a small tulle scarf is worn over them, with a bow in back. cat 4 Here is a map which shows where the original shawls and caps were found. A quick view of the various embroidery patterns. Bjerkreim Frafjord Bokn Jelsa Erfjord The woman on the left is wearing the Erfjord embroidery. The one on the right has Tjelmeland. Loland Tjelmeland In recent years, more embroidered shawls have come to light, and those designs are also used. There are also several composed drakts that exist in Rogaland, all cat 5. Åsestakken This is not linked with any particular part of Rogaland. cat 5 Lund This municipality is in the southeast, on the border with West Agder. The bunad was a free composition which was finished in 1998. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lund,_Norway Egersund or Eigersund This municipality is north and west of Lund. It has two costumes, both cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eigersund Jaeren This is a district just south of the capitol, towards the center of the province. This district has two costumes. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J%C3%A6ren This bunad was presented in 1980 cat 5 This one is called the Karen and Knud drakt, for women and men, respectively. Presented in 1982 and 1993. cat 5 Sandnes This is a municipality just south of Stavanger. The bunad is called Leirfivel. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandnes Stavanger This city is the center of administration for Rogaland. They have two different bunads, both cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stavanger Liljedrakt Annedrakt Haugesund This municipality is in the northwest of Rogaland, on the coast. This was designed in 2001 and is meant to symbolize the history of the area. cat 5 Karmøy This is an island and municipality off the northwest coast of Rogaland. The bunad was a free composition in 1984. The mens bunad was designed later. both are cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karm%C3%B8y Hordaland This is the most complex province in terms of folk costume. In Hordaland are three bunads which are category one, living traditions down to the present day, as well as many that are reconstructed and a couple which were designed. I will devote a separate article to this province. Sogn and Fjordane This province is home to two Unesco world heritage sites. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sogn_og_Fjordane There are three districts in this province, each of which has basically one bunad. Going from south to north. Sogn By 1900, folk costumes were no longer worn in Sogn, however, there was a wealth of preserved garments which enabled the reconstruction of the bunad in various forms. These include those for married women, unmarried girls and children as well as those for everyday and formal occasions. Married women wore a white headdress, which they continued to wear even after they gave up the rest of the costume. The Inner and Middle Sogn Womens bunad. This was revived in the early 1900s. A green silk blouse could also be worn under the bodice by married women. cat 4 This woman is wearing the green blouse, but has omitted the headdress, which is incorrect. This girl is unmarried according to her bunad. Unmarried girls wear headbands or kerchiefs. Both married women and unmarried girls could wear a plastron under the bodice for more formal occasions. Recently a reconstructed bunad has been released for Inner and Middle Sogn. It does not differ that much, but offers more options. The same rules apply for married vs unmarried women for the headdress, but unmarried girls may wear a jacket under the bodice. Little girls wear a bonnet. cat 3 Mens bunad from Sogn This also has an early 20th cent version. cat 4 As well as a recently reconstructed version. cat 3 Brekke This is a former municipality in Outer Sogn on the coast, which has now been combined with the municipality of Gulen. This is the only bunad which I have found from Outer Sogn. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brekke Sunnfjord There is one bunad for this district, with a few variants. There was much material available to reconstruct this bunad. A new reconstruction was done recently, but it did little except make more variety available and change minor details. One notable detail is that unmarried girls have red piping on their hats, but married women have black. This is a detail that one has to look closely to see. old bunad cat 4, reconstructed cat 3 Good image, but this woman is wearing a cap of the wrong shape. Here you can see the red edging on the girls' caps. Nordfjord There is only one bunad for Nordfjord, but it has many variants. The original bunad was launched in 1927. There was an attempt to revise the bunad in 1947, but after doing research, the committee found little that needed changing. A variety of apron, pocket and shirt embroideries exist. cat 4 Møre and Romsdal The name of this province was controverted for quite a long time. The three districts in this province each have more ties to the next province over rather than to each other. This is evident in the costumes, Sunnmore to Nordfjord, Romsdal to Oppland, and Nordmore to South Trondelag. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C3%B8re_og_Romsdal Sunnmøre Bunads for this district were designed in the 1920's, copying embroidery from old bodices and aprons. They are all of the livkjol type, with differing embroideries from different municipalites. Refer to the map above to find their locations. There were apparently costumes worn within living memory at the time, but they were too plain to be adopted. Recently there has also been a reconstructed bunad. Mens Bunad There is a bunad from the 1920s cat 4 There is also a more recently reconstructed bunad cat 3 Reconstructed Sunnmøre bunad cat 3 Inner and north Sunnmøre These are all variants of the same bunad, each based on a different old apron which was found and copied in various locations. The cap may be worn with or without the kerchief. The married womens kerchief is embroidered all in black, while the unmarried girls' kerchief is embroidered in various colors. A silk scarf is worn around the base of the kerchief. I will start in the north and work clockwise around. cat 5 Skodje Ørskog This is the most famous version of this bunad, because it has been worn by the royal family. There were two different groups which designed the bunad, one in Oslo, and the other in Sunnmøre itself. The embroidery on the bodice differs, likely the Oslo group copied a different bodice. Oslo variant Sunnmøre variant Norddal Stranda Sykkylven I Sykkylven II Hjørundfjord This was a former municipality which was located around the fjord of the same name. It now forms the eastern part of the municipality of Ørsta. In the first image it is on the left. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hj%C3%B8rundfjord Ørsta bunad This is for the village of Ørsta and the former municipality of that name, which forms the eastern part of the current municipality. This bunad differs in that there is no apron, and the embroidery is done on the skirt instead. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%98rsta South and Outer Sunnmøre This bunad differs in the bodice, which is made of a brocade material with a different cut. The brocade is orange on one side and red on the other. Either side may be worn facing out. There are two variants, one from Dalsfjord which is used for all of south Sunnmøre, and one from Vigra which is used for outer Sunnmøre. Dalsfjord This was a former municipality found around the fjord of the same name. It now forms the western part of Volda municipality. The apron embroidery is similar to that of neighboring Nordfjord. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dalsfjord,_M%C3%B8re_og_Romsdal Vigra Vigra is an island and a former municipality on the coast. It now forms the north part of the municipality of Giske. The bunad is worn all along the coast. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vigra This image shows Vigra on the left, and Dalsfjord on the right. Romsdal There are three basic bunads from Romsdal, which reflect different periods. The first bunad to be presented in the 20th cent, based on very good research into 19th cent costume resembles that of western Oppland. Rutastakk fra Romsdal cat 3 While the rutastakk suited the pietistic mood of the 19th cent, its simplicity and quiet dark colors were not met with approval by the people of the 20th cent, who wanted a colorful, embroidered bunad. Thus research was done, and bunads were designed based on embroidered bodices from the 18th cent. There were four of these, all cat 5 Mens bunad Bolsøy Bunad This is the best known of the four, based on a bodice found in the former municipality of the same name, which is currently part of the municipality of Molde. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bols%C3%B8y Vågstranda Bunad This village is on the south bank of the Romdalsfjord, in the northwest of the municipality of Rauma. Rødven Bunad This village is on the Rødvenfjord, just south of where it empties into the Romsdalfjord, in the northeast of the municipality of Rauma. Malo Bunad This bunad was designed by Anne Malo, based on material found in the Romsdalmuseum. Reconstructed Romsdal Bunad This is based on the clothing of the 18th cent, and features some of the same embroideries as the 20th cent designs. cat 3 Nordmøre The whitework from this region is famous, and there are many designs used in the bunad. The apron may be of linen with white openwork, or of silk plaid. There are likewise two headdresses, the older is called linhatte, and is made of white linen with openwork embroidery, the more recent, from the 1800's is called piklue, and is a pointed cap made with black silk that has multicolored embroidery around the base. This bunad is worn all over the district except in the two easternmost municipalities. cat 3 Mens Bunad There is a bunad which was designed in 1922 based on old pictures and interviews, with a brown jacket and embroidered blue vest. cat 5 There is also a reconstructed bunad, based on clothing from around the year 1800. cat 3 This can be worn with black wool knickers or natural suede knickers. Rindal Bunad This municipality is landlocked and lies at the eastern end of Nordmore. It borders South Trondelag on three sides, and the costume reflects this. cat 3 Aure and Hemne Aure is in the northeast of Nordmore and Hemne in the southwest of Trondelag. The bunad is worn in both provinces. cat 3 This concludes part three. I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. Thank you for reading. Roman K. email - [email protected] Source Material: Aagot Noss, 'Draktskikk i Aust-Telemark', Oslo, 2010 Kari-Anne Pedersen, 'Folkedrakt blir Bunad', Cappelen Damm, 2013 Bjorn Sverre hol Haugen, 'Norsk Bunadleksikon' Oslo, 2009 Kjersti Skavhaug et al, 'Norwegian Bunads', Oslo, 1991 Heidi Fossnes, 'Norges Bunader og Samiske Folkedrakter', Oslo, 1993 Ellen Scheel et al, 'Bunad-Brodering', Oslo, 1997 Janice Stewart, 'The Folk Arts of Norway', University of Wisconsin, 1953 Guvnor Traetteberg, 'Folk Costumes of Norway', Oslo, 1966, 1976 Thorbjorg Ugland, 'A Sampler of Norway's Folk Costumes', Oslo, 1996 Laila Duran, 'Scandinavian Folklore vol I - III', Sweden, 2011-2013

Hello all, This is the second part of my overview of the costumes of Norway. This will cover the central row of provinces in Eastern Norway, the yellow and orange ones on the map below, minus the ones I covered in the first article. This includes the provinces of Oppland, Buskerud, Telemark, and East and West Agder. All of these have at least some areas in which folk costumes were a living tradition or within living memory at the beginning of the 20th cent. The National Bunad Council Bunad- og Folkedraktrådet , the authority on national costumes appointed by the government, has developed five categories to grade modern day bunads according to ‘authentic’ regional folk clothing: Category 1 – a bunad that represents a final link in the development of a folk costume. This is basically an original folk costume that has taken on the function of a bunad. Category 2 – a bunad that has a background in a particular folk costume that is out of use but not forgotten. It is generally reconstructed from first-hand knowledge, with many examples extant. Category 3 – a bunad that has been reconstructed from preserved folk garments which reflect the actual time and region of the piece. Pictures and writings may be used as sources in reconstruction. Category 4 – a bunad that has been made based on random and incomplete folk material. Missing pieces have been designed to match the style of the materials. Category 5 – a bunad that has been completely or partially freely composed. It was the 1800s bunad movement that has given these types of bunad their status. New bunads are being designed every year, and must go through the strict judgement process of the National Bunad Council in order to be classified as a proper ‘bunad’. The council is very strict in making sure new additions follow closely the traditions and history of the area. Because of this, many designs today, even though they have the same function as a bunad, generally don’t make the cut and thus can not be called ‘bunads’. They receive the name ‘drakt’ instead. . Costumes are readily available in Norway, there are many businesses which make them. These are called Husflid. They are, however, expensive, as the Norwegians believe in paying a living wage to people who do things like embroider or weave by hand. For every one of these costumes, whether bunad or drakt, there is at least one sewing house, or husflid, which specializes in making it. So let us continue. Oppland This is divided into the three districts of Vestoppland, Gudbrandsdal, and Valdres. The image at the top of the article is one of the bunads from Gudbrandsdal which has never gone out of usage, the Rondestakken. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oppland Vestoppland One of the costumes which represent this region was designed by the noted artist Alf Lundeby in 1932. The Lundeby costume comes in black, blue, or white. It remains very popular. Lundeby Drakt cat 5 Vestoppland Bunad This was designed in 1937 from pieces found in different parts of Vestoppland. cat 5 The next three costumes each represent a part of Vestoppland. Hadeland Bunad Hadeland is the southern part of Vestoppland, around Randsfjord. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hadeland The Hadeland Bunad is an accurate reconstruction of the local dress in the mid 1800s. It was made in plaids of different colors. Plaids are common in several neighboring districts as well. Girls wore a pale cap, married women a black one. The cap had a lace ruffle, similar to that in some Danish costumes. Like with all bunads, an underskirt must be worn. cat 3 Toten is in the east central part of Vestoppland. Toten drakt This design was finalized in 1971, based on pieces of costume found in this area. men cat 5, women cat 4 Land, or Nordre Land, is in the northern part of Vestoppland. Landingsdrakt Work on the costume started in 1927 and was finalized in 1980. The embroidery was taken from an old shawl found in Hadeland. cat 5 Gudbrandsdal Gudbrandsdal is a valley which extends from Lillehammer to the northwest. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gudbrand_Valley The men wear a red wool plaid vest, or, for more formal occasions, a brocade vest may be worn. Sometimes an older form of frock coat may be worn as well. This is shown in the second image. cat 4 Rondastakken or Livkjol cat 1 This bunad is part of a living tradition in the valley. It is not designed or reconstructed.The most recent version is called rondastakken, which means 'striped skirt'. These were made with homewoven cloth, striped for the skirt, and plaid for the attached bodice. Livkjol means 'bodice skirt' and refers to the construction. Other types of cloth were also used in the past, and these have now come back into use. It was known that in the early 1800's it was the fashion to wear embroidered skirts. Some of these skirts have been preserved in museums. Embroidery from these skirts were copied onto wool and used to make a livkjol with an embroidered skirt. This was the origin of the Gudbrandsdal Bunad. The original skirt for this embroidery was from Lom. cat 4 The same embroidery was used in the 1920s to make the Gudbrandsdal Formal bunad. The bodice was also made of wook most often of the same color and also received embroidery, as did the pocket. An apron with matching embroidery was also sometimes worn. This became very popular and was the origin of the Embroidered Bunad type which was copied in so many places around Norway with different embroidery patterns, several of which we have already seen. cat 5 Another designed bunad used embroidery from a skirt found at the Graffer Farm. This is called the Graffer Bunad and remains very popular today. cat 4 Jorde Bunad This was designed by Maria Jorde from Bøverdal in Lom. cat 5 Other similar bunads represent particular parts of Gudbrandsdal. Lesja Bunad or Rutastakk cat 2 Gausdals Bunad cat 4 Dovre Bunad cat 5 Lillehammer Bunad. This comes in blue with multicolored embroidery, or green or red with monochromatic gold embroidery of the same design. cat 5 Valdres This valley lies in the southern part of Oppland. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valdres Rutastakken This is the Valdres equivalent of the Rondestakken of Gudbrandsdal. In this bunad, the skirt as well as the bodice is plaid, of many kinds. The matching mens costume also features a plaid wool vest and a black jacket. This was common in the second half of the 19th cent. cat 3 Valdres has two livkjol type embroidered bunads. The 'Old' Valdres Bunad This was designed in 1914. cat 5 The 'New' Valdres Bunad This was designed in 1948. cat 5 The South. or lower Valdres Bunad cat 3 Upper Valdres Bunad, or Bringedukdrakt This has been established as the bunad for Upper Valdres, namely Vang and Slidre. The second term refers to the stomacher or plastron which is inserted into the bodice. This was typical for the first half of the 19th cent. The everyday costume is plain blue. cat 3 Buskerud Buskerud borders on Oslo on the southeast, but also extends up into two major mountain valleys, Hallingdal and Nemedal. These border Valdres, Telemark and Hordaland, all areas in which the costume tradition is strong. There are also smaller distinct areas in central Buskerud, Ringerike in the north, and the coherent costume region of Siggdal-Eggedal-Krødsherad in the center. The lowland areas lost their costume tradition early, but the high mountain valleys were still wearing their traditional costumes at the beginning of the 20th century when the bunad movement began. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buskerud Ringerike This is just downstream from Valdres in the same valley. In the past it was an independent fief. It extends south to the province of Oslo. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ringerike_(traditional_district) There is both a local drakt cat 4 and an embroidered bunad. cat 5 Mends bunad is cat 3 Ådal is a valley in the municipality of Ringerike They have their own embroidered bunad, designed in 1938 cat 5 Hønefoss This bunad was designed in 1954 cat 5 Lower Buskerud This is shown in light blue on the map with the exception of Ringerike. In these low lying areas close to the capitol, the bunads are designed or recreated. There is an embroidered bunad, cat 5,which was designed in 1939 for all of Lower Buskerud: Eiker, Lier, Drammen, Modum, Hurum, Sandsvaer and Røyken. Some of these also have their own bunads or drakten. Hurum Bunad This was a free composition in 1994 cat 5 Røyken drakt A free composition in 1992 cat 5 Lier Bunad This was a free composition completed in 1974. men cat 4, women cat 5 Modum drakt cat 5 Eiker drakt cat 5 Kongsberg drakt cat 5 Hallingdal This is one of the most famous valleys of Norway for costume, embroidery and folklore. These three valleys have distinct costumes, but they intergrade from one to the other. I have written an article on Hallingdal already. I may have to update it, as I have learned more since I wrote it. http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2012/06/bunad-and-rosemaling-embroidery-of.html This is an area where the local costume is well remembered, and there are many examples to be found around the valley. Upper Hallingdal cat 1 This consists of the municipalities of Hol and Ål. This man is in a Rogaland Bunad, not Hallingdal The upper Hallingdal bunad is noted for its embroidery, an extremely short bodice, black apron for the dress bunad, and quite complex headdresses for both married women and single girls, as seen in the last two images above. Hulda Garborg, who was so instrumental in reviving interest in Norwegian folk costumes in the early 20th cent. thought that it was important to make the costumes modern and easy to wear. She took this costume and simplified it. Perhaps the biggest change is that she replaced the headdress with a simple embroidered cap similar to that worn in Lower Hallingdal. This simplified bunad became very popular, and many people mistakenly believe it to be the authentic Upper Hallingdal bunad. Here are some examples. Lower Hallingal This consists of the municipalities of Hemsedal, Gol, and Nes. The costumes are quite similar to that of Upper Hallingdal, but they traditionally wore the cap, they used a flowered or plaid apron for the formal costume, and there are other minor differences. They sometimes wore a kerchief tied around the cap, as is the custom in mid Buskerud. cat 1 There are two mens bunads, one is rather plain black, cat 1, and the other is highly embroidered, cat 4. The second is very popular with men all over Norway who want a colorful embroidered bunad. The everyday bunad from Hallingdal is also well remembered and still worn. It has no apron and is black or plaid. Mid Buskerud This consists of Sigdal - Eggedal, Krødsherad, and sometimes Flå. Flå This municipality is technically in Lower Hallingdal, but the costume is perhaps closer to the Mid Buskerud costume. cat 4 Sigdal - Eggedal, Krødsherad cat 3 Numedal This lies over the mountains south of Hallingdal, and is north of Telemark. Mans bunad There are three. The gray jacket is used all over the valley, but there are also two different black bunads for Lower and upper Numedal Gray Jacket cat 2 Lower Numedal mens bunad with round jacket cat 3 Upper Numedal mens bunad with short jacket. cat 3 Lower Numedal, Flesberg cat 2 Upper Numedal cat 3 There is also an embroidered bunad which was designed for Numedal in 1938. cat 4 Telemark https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telemark Telemark is perhaps the richest province in Norway as regards costumes. The costumes were a living tradition well into the 20th cent. There are many examples of different embroideries and cuts. However, many of these reflect individual variations and different time periods. There are only three costume districts in Telemark: East Telemark, West Telemark and Tinn. This map also separates the coastal area. This was distinct culturally, but did not keep much in the way of costume. I have written a series of articles on Telemark already. http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2014/05/beltestakk-and-gratrje-costumes-of-east.html http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2014/05/gratrje-costume-of-east-telemark-norway.html http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2014/05/east-telemark-norway-embroidered-shirts.html http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2014/05/east-telemark-norway-socks-and-shoes.html http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2012/06/costume-and-rosemaling-embroidery-of.html Tinn Mens Bunad cat 3 Omslagsliv The embroidered bands which cross over the shoulders were originally suspenders which held up the skirt. The bodice was attached to the second underskirt. The embroidery is often done freehand, and there is much individual variation. cat 1 Skjaelingskleda This is an older costume from the early 1800s which shows the influence of neighboring Numedal. cat 3 East Telemark Mans bunad with gray jacket cat 2 This is the most common version. It comes from the same period as the beltestakk. Stakk og Liv This means skirt and bodice. It is the most recent and simplest form of the East Telemark folk costume which was in use into the 1970s. cat 1 Beltestakk cat 2 This is an older form of the costume which was revived. It has a great deal of ornament in the form of ribbon, but has embroidery only on the shirt. The skirt is exceptionally full, which makes it fun to dance in. Because of the lack of embroidery, it is fairly inexpensive and very popular today. It is named after the very wide card woven sash which is an integral part of this costume. Raudtroje This means red jacket and is the common embroidered form of the East Telemark Bunad. It is based on an even older form of the folk costume. cat 3 - West Telemark The costume and embroidery tradition is just as rich in West Telemark. The various costume types are associated with different periods of history. The older, more elaborately embroidered forms were used as the basis for the modern bunad. Raudsaumsbunad This is the most recent form of the costume, this came into being around 1910. This was thought at the time to be stylishly modern. It reintroduced the old embroidery on the bodice. cat 1 Fløyesliv This bunad was in use roughly from 1895 to 1915 or so. It is distinguished by the embroidered bib attached to the front of the bodice. The apron was sometimes embroidered. cat 2 Rundtroje This is the most recent living form of the mans bunad in plain black. It matches the two womens bunads above. cat 1 Bringeklutbunad and Gray Jacket bunad These were worn in the early to mid 1800s by women and men, respectively. Relatively recently they have been reconstructed and begun to be worn again. cat 3 Vest Telemark bunad The most popular bunad today is the elaborately embroidered one which was worn even earlier, roughly from 1750 to 1850. cat 4 Drangedal This is a coastal area. To my knowledge this is the only coastal costume to be reconstructed in Telemark. cat 4 Agder In ancient times this was a petty kingdom, The name is so old that the meaning of it has been lost. Today it is divided into two provinces, West Agder and East Agder. This is the southernmost point of Norway. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agder This area is small, and I am surprised that It was divided in two. It is sometimes referred to as the southland. It includes Setesdal in which the folk costume is a living tradition, and coastal areas which have revived theirs. You will notice part of the coast is depicted in white with the heading 'unspecified'. Setesdal This district holds much the same position in Norway that Andalusia does in Spain. The costume is iconic for the country, but is not at all typical. cat 1 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Setesdal The everyday costume for the women is a white jumper with black bands on the hem. The men wear a sort of overall. For Sundays and feast days, a second black jumper with bands of red and green on the hem was worn over this. The men put on an embroidered vest with either a fancy knitted sweater or short embroidered jacket. Åmli The bunad was reconstructed from old costume pieces in 1926. There are various kerchiefs and aprons preserved with different embroidery designs. cat 4 Iveland This began to be reconstructed in 1917. This bunad may be worn with a variety of embroidered pockets, many of which are to be found. Very similar pockets are also worn in West Agder. cat 4 West Agder There is only one bunad for most of West Agder. The striped skirt is worn by unmarried girls or by married women on regular days. On feastdays married women wear a finely pleated black skirt. The colorful high headdress was worn by married women. Girls wore a lower one which was much less ornamented. The skirt was held up by buttoning it to woven suspenders. Shawls with various embroidery patterns were also worn. As in Iveland, the embroidery on the pockets varied quite a bit. cat 4 Here are some embroidered shawls from West Agder with the names of the locations in which they were found. Sirdal cat 4 This is the northernmost valley of Vest Agder There is also an Agderdrakt which is a free composition for all of Agder. It features several local wildflowers. I have only seen one photo of it.\ cat 5 This concludes part 2. Thank you for reading. I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. I hope that some of you might be inspired to try some of the incredible embroidery which is found in this area. email: [email protected] Source Material: Bjorn Sverre hol Haugen, 'Norsk Bunadleksikon' Oslo, 2009 Kjersti Skavhaug et al, 'Norwegian Bunads', Oslo, 1991 Heidi Fossnes, 'Norges Bunader og Samiske Folkedrakter', Oslo, 1993 Ellen Scheel et al, 'Bunad-Brodering', Oslo, 1997 Janice Stewart, 'The Folk Arts of Norway', University of Wisconsin, 1953 Guvnor Traetteberg, 'Folk Costumes of Norway', Oslo, 1966, 1976 Thorbjorg Ugland, 'A Sampler of Norway's Folk Costumes', Oslo, 1996 Laila Duran, 'Scandinavian Folklore vol I - III', Sweden, 2011-2013

Hello all, Part three of this overview is forthcoming. I was asked about the costumes of Trondelag, and so I wrote this one first. This is the fourth part of my overview of Norwegian Costumes. This will cover all of Norway from Trondelag north. Here Norway starts to overlap Sapmi, commonly called Lappland. I will not be covering the Saami costumes of Norway, as I have already written about them. They are a completely separate costume tradition, and it makes no sense to separate the part which is in Norway from the rest of Sapmi, which lies in Sweden, Finland, and Russia. While Trondheim is an old Norse city, Norwegian settlement becomes more recent the further north you go, and the costume tradition becomes very thin. The Norwegians are not indigenous to the north in the same way as they are to the south. The National Bunad Council Bunad- og Folkedraktrådet , the authority on national costumes appointed by the government, has developed five categories to grade modern day bunads according to ‘authentic’ regional folk clothing: Category 1 – a bunad that represents a ‘final’ link’ in the development of a folk costume. This is basically an original folk costume that has taken on the function of a bunad. Category 2 – a bunad that has a background in a particular folk costume that is out of use but not forgotten. It is generally reconstructed from first-hand knowledge. Actual old garments exist. Category 3 – a bunad that has been reconstructed from preserved folk garments which reflect the actual time and region of the piece. Pictures and writings are used as sources in reconstruction. Category 4 – a bunad that has been made based on random and incomplete folk material. Missing pieces have been designed to match the style of the materials. Category 5 – a bunad that has been completely or partially ‘freely composed’. It was the 1800s bunad movement that has given these types of bunad their status. New ‘bunads’ that are being designed every year, must go through the strict judgement process of the National Bunad Council in order to be classified as a proper ‘bunad’. The council is very strict in making sure new additions follow closely the traditions and history of the area. Because of this, many designs today, even though they have the same function as a bunad, generally don’t make the cut and thus can not be called ‘bunads’. They receive the name drakt. Costumes are readily available in Norway, there are many businesses which make them. These are called Husflid. They are, however, expensive, as the Norwegians believe in paying a living wage to people who do things like embroider or weave by hand. For every one of these costumes, whether bunad or drakt, there is at least one sewing house, or husflid, which specializes in making it. All of the costumes from the north are either designed or reconstructed, with the single exception of the Røros region, where the costume tradition was still within living memory at the beginning of the 20th cent. The girls at the top of this article are in Røros costume. Trøndelag This area is centered around the city of Trondheim. It is currently split into two provinces. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tr%C3%B8ndelag There is a bunad which was designed for all of Trøndelag. cat. 4 Work on designing the costume started in 1920. It was based on various pieces which were found around the region. As it was intended to cover a large area, more variation was incorporated than was usual at that time. A couple of different aprons are used, and the colors were traditionally either blue, green or red. There is now a black and gold variant, and I have seen a photo of one in rust. Old photographs show a greater variety of material used. A veil may be worn over the cap. South Trøndelag South Trondelag has the richest costume tradition of any of the provinces which we will cover today. The map, like the one of Agder, shows white areas signifying unspecified costume traditions. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S%C3%B8r-Tr%C3%B8ndelag The city of Trondheim has a drakt which was designed for it. It has not been approved as a bunad. cat 5 No comment. Røros This is a mining area, and the southern edge of Sapmi. The costumes can be made in a wide variety of colors and fabrics. The girl's costume is distinct from that of married women. They still wear a jacket as part of the formal bunad. There are three regions in this district, Røros itself, Haltdalen and Tydal. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R%C3%B8ros Røros cat 2 Folk dance from Roros, the pols. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGBSxeNNcxo There is an embroidered bunad which was designed for this area, called the Bergstadbunad. It features embroidery of some of the local wildflowers. cat.5 Haltdalen This costume is very similar to that of Roros. cat 4 Tydal This is part of the Roros district, the bunad is somewhat distinct, but still similar. cat 4 Selbu This costume features embroidered caps, pockets and shawls. The bodice and vest are of block printed cloth. cat 3 Gauldal cat 4 mens bunad only Oppdal cat 4 Rennebu and Meldal men cat 3 Rennebu Womens bunad cat 4 Meldal Womens bunad cat 4 Orkdal cat 3 Orkdalsdrakt This is a designed embroidered costume for Orkdal cat 5 Orkladalen This is another reconstructed bunad for the three previous districts of Sennebu, Meldal and Orkdal, which formed the ancient kingdom of Orkladalen. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orkdalen Hitra This is an island near the south border of South Trondelag. This drakt is based on an old drawing. cat 4 Fosen Fosen lies north of the Trondheim fjord, and has land borders only with North Trondelag, but is jurisdictionally part of South Trondelag. The bunad is very similar to that of North Trondelag. It features a quilted skirt, and seems to be based at least in part on the drawing just above. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fosen cat 3 North Trøndelag https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nord-Tr%C3%B8ndelag This area is much less populated than South Trondelag. There are only three bunads and a couple of drakts from this province. North Trondelag embroidered bunad. Also called the Floan bunad. This was put together in 1938. It seems to feature four different possible embroidery patterns. cat 4 North Trondelag reconstructed bunad. This represents the 1700s. This was presented in 1992. cat 3 Namdalen Namdalen is close to the coast, next to Fosen. This bunad was designed in 1950. women 4, men 3 Leksvik Leksvik is on the north bank of the Tronderfjord across from Trondheim. This drakt was designed in 1992 and features embroidery of wildflowers. There are 4 variants. cat 5 Mosvik Mosvik is next to Leksvik, just up the fjord. This drakt is a free composition. cat 5 Overhalla Overhalla is further north, just past Namdalen. The embroidery on this drakt was taken from a bridal skirt found in the area. cat 5 Nordland The climate here is remarkably temperate, with some of the few temperate rain forests that can be found in Europe. The fisheries are exceptionally rich. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordland The Nordland bunad comes in inland and coastal variants, green and blue, respectively. The embroidery and cut come from garments found in Vefsn. It was designed in 1928 cat 5 The Mens bunad is also used in Troms cat 4 Vega This is a group of islands in the south of Nordland. This drakt was a free composition in 1995. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vega,_Norway Hamarøy This municipality is in the north of Nordland. This bunad was designed in 1939. women cat 4, men cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hamar%C3%B8y Ofoten Ofoten is a district in the northeast corner of Nordland. The bunad was based on several garments from the area, including an embroidered apron which was found in Canada. The floral embroidery on the apron was added by the designers. The design was finished in 1989. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ofoten Lofoten Lofoten is a district in the north of Nordland, consisting of a peninsula and a large group of islands. The bunad was designed in 1942 cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lofoten Troms This province lies completely north of the Arctic Circle. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troms Troms bunad This features the weaving tradition of the area. It was designed in 1967 cat 4 Troms Festdrakt This was a free composition based on the folk embroidery of Troms. cat 5 The rest of the costumes of this province are connected to particular districts. There are a remarkable number of small communities which have designed their own costumes. Bardu and Målselv These two districts are in the southeast of Troms. They were first settled by Norwegians in 1788. The Saami call the area Bearddu. Since many of the early settlers came from Gudbrandsdal, it was decided to model the bunad for this area on the Gudbrandsdal bunad. The design of the bunad was finished in the 1960s. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bardu Balsfjord This municipality lies just north of Malselv. It is a fertile region that lies between two fjords. This bunad was finished in 1979. It features a cap for girls and a kerchief for married women. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balsfjord Malangen This was a former municipality centered around the Malangen fjord, which lies between Balsfjord and Lenvik. The territory has since been divided among neighboring districts. The drakt was designed to represent the culture and nature of the area, including a stylized letter M. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malangen Lenvik Lenvik district is west of Balsfjord, split between the mainland and the island of Senja. The drakt was composed in 1981 and aggressively features dandelions in its embroidery and silver jewelry. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lenvik Senja Senja is an island off the southern coast of Troms, it is split between four municipalities, one of which is Lenvik. The drakt was designed in 1978 and the style of the 70s is evident. It features either a brown bodice or a red one. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Senja Tromsø This is the next municipality north along the coast, including the city of Tromsø and the island of Tromsøya along with other islands and a big chunk of the coastline. The drakt features embroided Queen Anne's Lace. cat 5 Karlsøy This is the next municipality as we continue north along the coast. It is made up of islands. My sources disagree whether this is a bunad or a festdrakt. It features naturalistic floral embroidery. It comes in blue or red. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karls%C3%B8y Helgøy This is a former municipality which is currently incorporated into Karlsoy. The actual village of Helgoy is no longer inhabited. The drakt features embroidery of one specific plant, the Northern Dock, Rumex longifolius. I do not know why this plant was considered significant. The design was completed in 2000. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helg%C3%B8y Skjervøy This is the next municipality as you continue north. It also consists of a group of islands. This costume was designed by Dagmar Haugberg. My sources disagree as to whether this is a bunad or a drakt. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skjerv%C3%B8y Lyngen This municipality lies on a peninsula to the south of Skjervoy. This drakt was designed in 1985. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lyngen This image shows the Nordland bunad on the left, and the Lyngen festdrakt on the right. Kåfjord This municipality lies east of Lyngen on the mainland. The bunad was a free composition which took its inspiration from the natural richness of the area. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G%C3%A1ivuotna%E2%80%93K%C3%A5fjord Nordreisa This district lies northeast of Kafjord.The costume, called a bygdedrakt, is an attempt to reconstruct the historical clothing of the area. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordreisa Kvaenangen This district lies at the northeast end of Troms, next to Finnmark. The name means Kven Fjord. Most people in this area now consider themselves to be Norwegian, although the majority are of Saami or Kven ancestry. The bunad was a free composition in 1996. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kv%C3%A6nangen Kven The Kven are an ethnic minority in Troms and Finnmark, as well as adjacent parts of Sweden. They are descended from Finnish settlers who came to the area in the 18th and 19th cent. Their drakt reflects their Finnish heritage. Some of them still speak their distinctive dialect. In this image, a Kven couple poses with a family in the Nordreisa bygdedrakt. Finnmark This is the largest and least populated province of Norway. In the interior, the Saami are the majority, while on the islands, the Norwegians are. The fjord areas are mixed. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finnmark Finnmark has several Saami costumes which are very much alive, but there is only one Norwegian bunad and two drakts for this area. Finnmark bunad This bunad was designed in 1967. There was little native material to go on, but the hat was traditional. Notice the pendant which is attached to the bodice. cat 5 Finnmark Festdrakt This is a free composition based on the sewing traditions of Finnmark. cat 5 Vardø This municipality is the furthest east in Norway.This drakt was designed to symbolize the area. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vard%C3%B8 Svalbard Svalbard is a group of islands which lies far north of the Arctic circle. It had no human inhabitants until modern times. It is now under Norwegian jurisdiction. It has the northernmost permanent civilian population of any settlement in the world. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Svalbard The tradition is that only those who have spent all four seasons on Svalbard are permitted to wear this bunad. cat 5 This concludes my overview of Norwegian costume. I will return to look at individual costumes in more detail. Thank you for reading. I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. Roman K. email - [email protected] Source Material: Aagot Noss, 'Draktskikk i Aust-Telemark', Oslo, 2010 Kari-Anne Pedersen, 'Folkedrakt blir Bunad', Cappelen Damm, 2013 Bjorn Sverre hol Haugen, 'Norsk Bunadleksikon' Oslo, 2009 Kjersti Skavhaug et al, 'Norwegian Bunads', Oslo, 1991 Heidi Fossnes, 'Norges Bunader og Samiske Folkedrakter', Oslo, 1993 Ellen Scheel et al, 'Bunad-Brodering', Oslo, 1997 Janice Stewart, 'The Folk Arts of Norway', University of Wisconsin, 1953 Guvnor Traetteberg, 'Folk Costumes of Norway', Oslo, 1966, 1976 Thorbjorg Ugland, 'A Sampler of Norway's Folk Costumes', Oslo, 1996 Laila Duran, 'Scandinavian Folklore vol I - III', Sweden, 2011-2013

Hello all, This is the second part of my overview of the costumes of Norway. This will cover the central row of provinces in Eastern Norway, the yellow and orange ones on the map below, minus the ones I covered in the first article. This includes the provinces of Oppland, Buskerud, Telemark, and East and West Agder. All of these have at least some areas in which folk costumes were a living tradition or within living memory at the beginning of the 20th cent. The National Bunad Council Bunad- og Folkedraktrådet , the authority on national costumes appointed by the government, has developed five categories to grade modern day bunads according to ‘authentic’ regional folk clothing: Category 1 – a bunad that represents a final link in the development of a folk costume. This is basically an original folk costume that has taken on the function of a bunad. Category 2 – a bunad that has a background in a particular folk costume that is out of use but not forgotten. It is generally reconstructed from first-hand knowledge, with many examples extant. Category 3 – a bunad that has been reconstructed from preserved folk garments which reflect the actual time and region of the piece. Pictures and writings may be used as sources in reconstruction. Category 4 – a bunad that has been made based on random and incomplete folk material. Missing pieces have been designed to match the style of the materials. Category 5 – a bunad that has been completely or partially freely composed. It was the 1800s bunad movement that has given these types of bunad their status. New bunads are being designed every year, and must go through the strict judgement process of the National Bunad Council in order to be classified as a proper ‘bunad’. The council is very strict in making sure new additions follow closely the traditions and history of the area. Because of this, many designs today, even though they have the same function as a bunad, generally don’t make the cut and thus can not be called ‘bunads’. They receive the name ‘drakt’ instead. . Costumes are readily available in Norway, there are many businesses which make them. These are called Husflid. They are, however, expensive, as the Norwegians believe in paying a living wage to people who do things like embroider or weave by hand. For every one of these costumes, whether bunad or drakt, there is at least one sewing house, or husflid, which specializes in making it. So let us continue. Oppland This is divided into the three districts of Vestoppland, Gudbrandsdal, and Valdres. The image at the top of the article is one of the bunads from Gudbrandsdal which has never gone out of usage, the Rondestakken. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oppland Vestoppland One of the costumes which represent this region was designed by the noted artist Alf Lundeby in 1932. The Lundeby costume comes in black, blue, or white. It remains very popular. Lundeby Drakt cat 5 Vestoppland Bunad This was designed in 1937 from pieces found in different parts of Vestoppland. cat 5 The next three costumes each represent a part of Vestoppland. Hadeland Bunad Hadeland is the southern part of Vestoppland, around Randsfjord. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hadeland The Hadeland Bunad is an accurate reconstruction of the local dress in the mid 1800s. It was made in plaids of different colors. Plaids are common in several neighboring districts as well. Girls wore a pale cap, married women a black one. The cap had a lace ruffle, similar to that in some Danish costumes. Like with all bunads, an underskirt must be worn. cat 3 Toten is in the east central part of Vestoppland. Toten drakt This design was finalized in 1971, based on pieces of costume found in this area. men cat 5, women cat 4 Land, or Nordre Land, is in the northern part of Vestoppland. Landingsdrakt Work on the costume started in 1927 and was finalized in 1980. The embroidery was taken from an old shawl found in Hadeland. cat 5 Gudbrandsdal Gudbrandsdal is a valley which extends from Lillehammer to the northwest. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gudbrand_Valley The men wear a red wool plaid vest, or, for more formal occasions, a brocade vest may be worn. Sometimes an older form of frock coat may be worn as well. This is shown in the second image. cat 4 Rondastakken or Livkjol cat 1 This bunad is part of a living tradition in the valley. It is not designed or reconstructed.The most recent version is called rondastakken, which means 'striped skirt'. These were made with homewoven cloth, striped for the skirt, and plaid for the attached bodice. Livkjol means 'bodice skirt' and refers to the construction. Other types of cloth were also used in the past, and these have now come back into use. It was known that in the early 1800's it was the fashion to wear embroidered skirts. Some of these skirts have been preserved in museums. Embroidery from these skirts were copied onto wool and used to make a livkjol with an embroidered skirt. This was the origin of the Gudbrandsdal Bunad. The original skirt for this embroidery was from Lom. cat 4 The same embroidery was used in the 1920s to make the Gudbrandsdal Formal bunad. The bodice was also made of wook most often of the same color and also received embroidery, as did the pocket. An apron with matching embroidery was also sometimes worn. This became very popular and was the origin of the Embroidered Bunad type which was copied in so many places around Norway with different embroidery patterns, several of which we have already seen. cat 5 Another designed bunad used embroidery from a skirt found at the Graffer Farm. This is called the Graffer Bunad and remains very popular today. cat 4 Jorde Bunad This was designed by Maria Jorde from Bøverdal in Lom. cat 5 Other similar bunads represent particular parts of Gudbrandsdal. Lesja Bunad or Rutastakk cat 2 Gausdals Bunad cat 4 Dovre Bunad cat 5 Lillehammer Bunad. This comes in blue with multicolored embroidery, or green or red with monochromatic gold embroidery of the same design. cat 5 Valdres This valley lies in the southern part of Oppland. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valdres Rutastakken This is the Valdres equivalent of the Rondestakken of Gudbrandsdal. In this bunad, the skirt as well as the bodice is plaid, of many kinds. The matching mens costume also features a plaid wool vest and a black jacket. This was common in the second half of the 19th cent. cat 3 Valdres has two livkjol type embroidered bunads. The 'Old' Valdres Bunad This was designed in 1914. cat 5 The 'New' Valdres Bunad This was designed in 1948. cat 5 The South. or lower Valdres Bunad cat 3 Upper Valdres Bunad, or Bringedukdrakt This has been established as the bunad for Upper Valdres, namely Vang and Slidre. The second term refers to the stomacher or plastron which is inserted into the bodice. This was typical for the first half of the 19th cent. The everyday costume is plain blue. cat 3 Buskerud Buskerud borders on Oslo on the southeast, but also extends up into two major mountain valleys, Hallingdal and Nemedal. These border Valdres, Telemark and Hordaland, all areas in which the costume tradition is strong. There are also smaller distinct areas in central Buskerud, Ringerike in the north, and the coherent costume region of Siggdal-Eggedal-Krødsherad in the center. The lowland areas lost their costume tradition early, but the high mountain valleys were still wearing their traditional costumes at the beginning of the 20th century when the bunad movement began. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buskerud Ringerike This is just downstream from Valdres in the same valley. In the past it was an independent fief. It extends south to the province of Oslo. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ringerike_(traditional_district) There is both a local drakt cat 4 and an embroidered bunad. cat 5 Mends bunad is cat 3 Ådal is a valley in the municipality of Ringerike They have their own embroidered bunad, designed in 1938 cat 5 Hønefoss This bunad was designed in 1954 cat 5 Lower Buskerud This is shown in light blue on the map with the exception of Ringerike. In these low lying areas close to the capitol, the bunads are designed or recreated. There is an embroidered bunad, cat 5,which was designed in 1939 for all of Lower Buskerud: Eiker, Lier, Drammen, Modum, Hurum, Sandsvaer and Røyken. Some of these also have their own bunads or drakten. Hurum Bunad This was a free composition in 1994 cat 5 Røyken drakt A free composition in 1992 cat 5 Lier Bunad This was a free composition completed in 1974. men cat 4, women cat 5 Modum drakt cat 5 Eiker drakt cat 5 Kongsberg drakt cat 5 Hallingdal This is one of the most famous valleys of Norway for costume, embroidery and folklore. These three valleys have distinct costumes, but they intergrade from one to the other. I have written an article on Hallingdal already. I may have to update it, as I have learned more since I wrote it. http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2012/06/bunad-and-rosemaling-embroidery-of.html This is an area where the local costume is well remembered, and there are many examples to be found around the valley. Upper Hallingdal cat 1 This consists of the municipalities of Hol and Ål. This man is in a Rogaland Bunad, not Hallingdal The upper Hallingdal bunad is noted for its embroidery, an extremely short bodice, black apron for the dress bunad, and quite complex headdresses for both married women and single girls, as seen in the last two images above. Hulda Garborg, who was so instrumental in reviving interest in Norwegian folk costumes in the early 20th cent. thought that it was important to make the costumes modern and easy to wear. She took this costume and simplified it. Perhaps the biggest change is that she replaced the headdress with a simple embroidered cap similar to that worn in Lower Hallingdal. This simplified bunad became very popular, and many people mistakenly believe it to be the authentic Upper Hallingdal bunad. Here are some examples. Lower Hallingal This consists of the municipalities of Hemsedal, Gol, and Nes. The costumes are quite similar to that of Upper Hallingdal, but they traditionally wore the cap, they used a flowered or plaid apron for the formal costume, and there are other minor differences. They sometimes wore a kerchief tied around the cap, as is the custom in mid Buskerud. cat 1 There are two mens bunads, one is rather plain black, cat 1, and the other is highly embroidered, cat 4. The second is very popular with men all over Norway who want a colorful embroidered bunad. The everyday bunad from Hallingdal is also well remembered and still worn. It has no apron and is black or plaid. Mid Buskerud This consists of Sigdal - Eggedal, Krødsherad, and sometimes Flå. Flå This municipality is technically in Lower Hallingdal, but the costume is perhaps closer to the Mid Buskerud costume. cat 4 Sigdal - Eggedal, Krødsherad cat 3 Numedal This lies over the mountains south of Hallingdal, and is north of Telemark. Mans bunad There are three. The gray jacket is used all over the valley, but there are also two different black bunads for Lower and upper Numedal Gray Jacket cat 2 Lower Numedal mens bunad with round jacket cat 3 Upper Numedal mens bunad with short jacket. cat 3 Lower Numedal, Flesberg cat 2 Upper Numedal cat 3 There is also an embroidered bunad which was designed for Numedal in 1938. cat 4 Telemark https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telemark Telemark is perhaps the richest province in Norway as regards costumes. The costumes were a living tradition well into the 20th cent. There are many examples of different embroideries and cuts. However, many of these reflect individual variations and different time periods. There are only three costume districts in Telemark: East Telemark, West Telemark and Tinn. This map also separates the coastal area. This was distinct culturally, but did not keep much in the way of costume. I have written a series of articles on Telemark already. http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2014/05/beltestakk-and-gratrje-costumes-of-east.html http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2014/05/gratrje-costume-of-east-telemark-norway.html http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2014/05/east-telemark-norway-embroidered-shirts.html http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2014/05/east-telemark-norway-socks-and-shoes.html http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2012/06/costume-and-rosemaling-embroidery-of.html Tinn Mens Bunad cat 3 Omslagsliv The embroidered bands which cross over the shoulders were originally suspenders which held up the skirt. The bodice was attached to the second underskirt. The embroidery is often done freehand, and there is much individual variation. cat 1 Skjaelingskleda This is an older costume from the early 1800s which shows the influence of neighboring Numedal. cat 3 East Telemark Mans bunad with gray jacket cat 2 This is the most common version. It comes from the same period as the beltestakk. Stakk og Liv This means skirt and bodice. It is the most recent and simplest form of the East Telemark folk costume which was in use into the 1970s. cat 1 Beltestakk cat 2 This is an older form of the costume which was revived. It has a great deal of ornament in the form of ribbon, but has embroidery only on the shirt. The skirt is exceptionally full, which makes it fun to dance in. Because of the lack of embroidery, it is fairly inexpensive and very popular today. It is named after the very wide card woven sash which is an integral part of this costume. Raudtroje This means red jacket and is the common embroidered form of the East Telemark Bunad. It is based on an even older form of the folk costume. cat 3 - West Telemark The costume and embroidery tradition is just as rich in West Telemark. The various costume types are associated with different periods of history. The older, more elaborately embroidered forms were used as the basis for the modern bunad. Raudsaumsbunad This is the most recent form of the costume, this came into being around 1910. This was thought at the time to be stylishly modern. It reintroduced the old embroidery on the bodice. cat 1 Fløyesliv This bunad was in use roughly from 1895 to 1915 or so. It is distinguished by the embroidered bib attached to the front of the bodice. The apron was sometimes embroidered. cat 2 Rundtroje This is the most recent living form of the mans bunad in plain black. It matches the two womens bunads above. cat 1 Bringeklutbunad and Gray Jacket bunad These were worn in the early to mid 1800s by women and men, respectively. Relatively recently they have been reconstructed and begun to be worn again. cat 3 Vest Telemark bunad The most popular bunad today is the elaborately embroidered one which was worn even earlier, roughly from 1750 to 1850. cat 4 Drangedal This is a coastal area. To my knowledge this is the only coastal costume to be reconstructed in Telemark. cat 4 Agder In ancient times this was a petty kingdom, The name is so old that the meaning of it has been lost. Today it is divided into two provinces, West Agder and East Agder. This is the southernmost point of Norway. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agder This area is small, and I am surprised that It was divided in two. It is sometimes referred to as the southland. It includes Setesdal in which the folk costume is a living tradition, and coastal areas which have revived theirs. You will notice part of the coast is depicted in white with the heading 'unspecified'. Setesdal This district holds much the same position in Norway that Andalusia does in Spain. The costume is iconic for the country, but is not at all typical. cat 1 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Setesdal The everyday costume for the women is a white jumper with black bands on the hem. The men wear a sort of overall. For Sundays and feast days, a second black jumper with bands of red and green on the hem was worn over this. The men put on an embroidered vest with either a fancy knitted sweater or short embroidered jacket. Åmli The bunad was reconstructed from old costume pieces in 1926. There are various kerchiefs and aprons preserved with different embroidery designs. cat 4 Iveland This began to be reconstructed in 1917. This bunad may be worn with a variety of embroidered pockets, many of which are to be found. Very similar pockets are also worn in West Agder. cat 4 West Agder There is only one bunad for most of West Agder. The striped skirt is worn by unmarried girls or by married women on regular days. On feastdays married women wear a finely pleated black skirt. The colorful high headdress was worn by married women. Girls wore a lower one which was much less ornamented. The skirt was held up by buttoning it to woven suspenders. Shawls with various embroidery patterns were also worn. As in Iveland, the embroidery on the pockets varied quite a bit. cat 4 Here are some embroidered shawls from West Agder with the names of the locations in which they were found. Sirdal cat 4 This is the northernmost valley of Vest Agder There is also an Agderdrakt which is a free composition for all of Agder. It features several local wildflowers. I have only seen one photo of it.\ cat 5 This concludes part 2. Thank you for reading. I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. I hope that some of you might be inspired to try some of the incredible embroidery which is found in this area. email: [email protected] Source Material: Bjorn Sverre hol Haugen, 'Norsk Bunadleksikon' Oslo, 2009 Kjersti Skavhaug et al, 'Norwegian Bunads', Oslo, 1991 Heidi Fossnes, 'Norges Bunader og Samiske Folkedrakter', Oslo, 1993 Ellen Scheel et al, 'Bunad-Brodering', Oslo, 1997 Janice Stewart, 'The Folk Arts of Norway', University of Wisconsin, 1953 Guvnor Traetteberg, 'Folk Costumes of Norway', Oslo, 1966, 1976 Thorbjorg Ugland, 'A Sampler of Norway's Folk Costumes', Oslo, 1996 Laila Duran, 'Scandinavian Folklore vol I - III', Sweden, 2011-2013

Hello all, this is part three of my overview of Norway, even if I published them out of order. This will cover the west of Norway from south to north, with the exception of Hordaland, which will be the subject of my next article. This area is in shades of pink on the map below. The National Bunad Council Bunad- og Folkedraktrådet , the authority on national costumes appointed by the government, has developed five categories to grade modern day bunads according to ‘authentic’ regional folk clothing: Category 1 – a bunad that represents a ‘final’ link’ in the development of a folk costume. This is basically an original folk costume that has taken on the function of a bunad. Category 2 – a bunad that has a background in a particular folk costume that is out of use but not forgotten. It is generally reconstructed from first-hand knowledge. Actual old garments exist. Category 3 – a bunad that has been reconstructed from preserved folk garments which reflect the actual time and region of the piece. Pictures and writings are used as sources in reconstruction. Category 4 – a bunad that has been made based on random and incomplete folk material. Missing pieces have been designed to match the style of the materials. Category 5 – a bunad that has been completely or partially ‘freely composed’. It was the 1800s bunad movement that has given these types of bunad their status. New ‘bunads’ that are being designed every year, must go through the strict judgement process of the National Bunad Council in order to be classified as a proper ‘bunad’. The council is very strict in making sure new additions follow closely the traditions and history of the area. Because of this, many designs today, even though they have the same function as a bunad, generally don’t make the cut and thus can not be called ‘bunads’. They receive the name drakt. Costumes are readily available in Norway, there are many businesses which make them. These are called Husflid. They are, however, expensive, as the Norwegians believe in paying a living wage to people who do things like embroider or weave by hand. For every one of these costumes, whether bunad or drakt, there is at least one sewing house, or husflid, which specializes in making it. So let us continue. Rogaland This is the center of Norway's petroleum industry. The name seems to be taken from that of an ancient Norse tribe that lived in this area. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rogaland There is only one bunad for this province that has any historical authenticity. It is worn over the entire province. There are various local costumes, but they are all mostly made up, cat 5. I will cover them after. Rogaland Mens Bunad There are two men's bunads. Both are in common usage. There was a very sharp one designed in the 1920's, after various museum pieces. It features a vest of patterned brocade, and red piping on the jacket and breeches or pants. cat 4 The second is a more recent reconstruction of an older, more colorful type of costume from the early 1800s. It was designed in 1986. cat 3 Rogaland Womens Bunad There is one bunad, but it comes in several variations. The caps and shawls are copies of actual old garments. As several of them were found, the embroidery of any of them may be used. These variants are named for the districts in which they were found. The same embroidery is copied onto the aprons and pockets. The bodice is of silk damask or brocade, and can be one of many colors. It may be waistlength or have a gathered peplum. The skirts are plain, but may be black, blue, or green. The caps may be trimmed with lace, and sometimes a small tulle scarf is worn over them, with a bow in back. cat 4 Here is a map which shows where the original shawls and caps were found. A quick view of the various embroidery patterns. Bjerkreim Frafjord Bokn Jelsa Erfjord The woman on the left is wearing the Erfjord embroidery. The one on the right has Tjelmeland. Loland Tjelmeland In recent years, more embroidered shawls have come to light, and those designs are also used. There are also several composed drakts that exist in Rogaland, all cat 5. Åsestakken This is not linked with any particular part of Rogaland. cat 5 Lund This municipality is in the southeast, on the border with West Agder. The bunad was a free composition which was finished in 1998. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lund,_Norway Egersund or Eigersund This municipality is north and west of Lund. It has two costumes, both cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eigersund Jaeren This is a district just south of the capitol, towards the center of the province. This district has two costumes. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J%C3%A6ren This bunad was presented in 1980 cat 5 This one is called the Karen and Knud drakt, for women and men, respectively. Presented in 1982 and 1993. cat 5 Sandnes This is a municipality just south of Stavanger. The bunad is called Leirfivel. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandnes Stavanger This city is the center of administration for Rogaland. They have two different bunads, both cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stavanger Liljedrakt Annedrakt Haugesund This municipality is in the northwest of Rogaland, on the coast. This was designed in 2001 and is meant to symbolize the history of the area. cat 5 Karmøy This is an island and municipality off the northwest coast of Rogaland. The bunad was a free composition in 1984. The mens bunad was designed later. both are cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karm%C3%B8y Hordaland This is the most complex province in terms of folk costume. In Hordaland are three bunads which are category one, living traditions down to the present day, as well as many that are reconstructed and a couple which were designed. I will devote a separate article to this province. Sogn and Fjordane This province is home to two Unesco world heritage sites. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sogn_og_Fjordane There are three districts in this province, each of which has basically one bunad. Going from south to north. Sogn By 1900, folk costumes were no longer worn in Sogn, however, there was a wealth of preserved garments which enabled the reconstruction of the bunad in various forms. These include those for married women, unmarried girls and children as well as those for everyday and formal occasions. Married women wore a white headdress, which they continued to wear even after they gave up the rest of the costume. The Inner and Middle Sogn Womens bunad. This was revived in the early 1900s. A green silk blouse could also be worn under the bodice by married women. cat 4 This woman is wearing the green blouse, but has omitted the headdress, which is incorrect. This girl is unmarried according to her bunad. Unmarried girls wear headbands or kerchiefs. Both married women and unmarried girls could wear a plastron under the bodice for more formal occasions. Recently a reconstructed bunad has been released for Inner and Middle Sogn. It does not differ that much, but offers more options. The same rules apply for married vs unmarried women for the headdress, but unmarried girls may wear a jacket under the bodice. Little girls wear a bonnet. cat 3 Mens bunad from Sogn This also has an early 20th cent version. cat 4 As well as a recently reconstructed version. cat 3 Brekke This is a former municipality in Outer Sogn on the coast, which has now been combined with the municipality of Gulen. This is the only bunad which I have found from Outer Sogn. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brekke Sunnfjord There is one bunad for this district, with a few variants. There was much material available to reconstruct this bunad. A new reconstruction was done recently, but it did little except make more variety available and change minor details. One notable detail is that unmarried girls have red piping on their hats, but married women have black. This is a detail that one has to look closely to see. old bunad cat 4, reconstructed cat 3 Good image, but this woman is wearing a cap of the wrong shape. Here you can see the red edging on the girls' caps. Nordfjord There is only one bunad for Nordfjord, but it has many variants. The original bunad was launched in 1927. There was an attempt to revise the bunad in 1947, but after doing research, the committee found little that needed changing. A variety of apron, pocket and shirt embroideries exist. cat 4 Møre and Romsdal The name of this province was controverted for quite a long time. The three districts in this province each have more ties to the next province over rather than to each other. This is evident in the costumes, Sunnmore to Nordfjord, Romsdal to Oppland, and Nordmore to South Trondelag. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C3%B8re_og_Romsdal Sunnmøre Bunads for this district were designed in the 1920's, copying embroidery from old bodices and aprons. They are all of the livkjol type, with differing embroideries from different municipalites. Refer to the map above to find their locations. There were apparently costumes worn within living memory at the time, but they were too plain to be adopted. Recently there has also been a reconstructed bunad. Mens Bunad There is a bunad from the 1920s cat 4 There is also a more recently reconstructed bunad cat 3 Reconstructed Sunnmøre bunad cat 3 Inner and north Sunnmøre These are all variants of the same bunad, each based on a different old apron which was found and copied in various locations. The cap may be worn with or without the kerchief. The married womens kerchief is embroidered all in black, while the unmarried girls' kerchief is embroidered in various colors. A silk scarf is worn around the base of the kerchief. I will start in the north and work clockwise around. cat 5 Skodje Ørskog This is the most famous version of this bunad, because it has been worn by the royal family. There were two different groups which designed the bunad, one in Oslo, and the other in Sunnmøre itself. The embroidery on the bodice differs, likely the Oslo group copied a different bodice. Oslo variant Sunnmøre variant Norddal Stranda Sykkylven I Sykkylven II Hjørundfjord This was a former municipality which was located around the fjord of the same name. It now forms the eastern part of the municipality of Ørsta. In the first image it is on the left. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hj%C3%B8rundfjord Ørsta bunad This is for the village of Ørsta and the former municipality of that name, which forms the eastern part of the current municipality. This bunad differs in that there is no apron, and the embroidery is done on the skirt instead. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%98rsta South and Outer Sunnmøre This bunad differs in the bodice, which is made of a brocade material with a different cut. The brocade is orange on one side and red on the other. Either side may be worn facing out. There are two variants, one from Dalsfjord which is used for all of south Sunnmøre, and one from Vigra which is used for outer Sunnmøre. Dalsfjord This was a former municipality found around the fjord of the same name. It now forms the western part of Volda municipality. The apron embroidery is similar to that of neighboring Nordfjord. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dalsfjord,_M%C3%B8re_og_Romsdal Vigra Vigra is an island and a former municipality on the coast. It now forms the north part of the municipality of Giske. The bunad is worn all along the coast. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vigra This image shows Vigra on the left, and Dalsfjord on the right. Romsdal There are three basic bunads from Romsdal, which reflect different periods. The first bunad to be presented in the 20th cent, based on very good research into 19th cent costume resembles that of western Oppland. Rutastakk fra Romsdal cat 3 While the rutastakk suited the pietistic mood of the 19th cent, its simplicity and quiet dark colors were not met with approval by the people of the 20th cent, who wanted a colorful, embroidered bunad. Thus research was done, and bunads were designed based on embroidered bodices from the 18th cent. There were four of these, all cat 5 Mens bunad Bolsøy Bunad This is the best known of the four, based on a bodice found in the former municipality of the same name, which is currently part of the municipality of Molde. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bols%C3%B8y Vågstranda Bunad This village is on the south bank of the Romdalsfjord, in the northwest of the municipality of Rauma. Rødven Bunad This village is on the Rødvenfjord, just south of where it empties into the Romsdalfjord, in the northeast of the municipality of Rauma. Malo Bunad This bunad was designed by Anne Malo, based on material found in the Romsdalmuseum. Reconstructed Romsdal Bunad This is based on the clothing of the 18th cent, and features some of the same embroideries as the 20th cent designs. cat 3 Nordmøre The whitework from this region is famous, and there are many designs used in the bunad. The apron may be of linen with white openwork, or of silk plaid. There are likewise two headdresses, the older is called linhatte, and is made of white linen with openwork embroidery, the more recent, from the 1800's is called piklue, and is a pointed cap made with black silk that has multicolored embroidery around the base. This bunad is worn all over the district except in the two easternmost municipalities. cat 3 Mens Bunad There is a bunad which was designed in 1922 based on old pictures and interviews, with a brown jacket and embroidered blue vest. cat 5 There is also a reconstructed bunad, based on clothing from around the year 1800. cat 3 This can be worn with black wool knickers or natural suede knickers. Rindal Bunad This municipality is landlocked and lies at the eastern end of Nordmore. It borders South Trondelag on three sides, and the costume reflects this. cat 3 Aure and Hemne Aure is in the northeast of Nordmore and Hemne in the southwest of Trondelag. The bunad is worn in both provinces. cat 3 This concludes part three. I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. Thank you for reading. Roman K. email - [email protected] Source Material: Aagot Noss, 'Draktskikk i Aust-Telemark', Oslo, 2010 Kari-Anne Pedersen, 'Folkedrakt blir Bunad', Cappelen Damm, 2013 Bjorn Sverre hol Haugen, 'Norsk Bunadleksikon' Oslo, 2009 Kjersti Skavhaug et al, 'Norwegian Bunads', Oslo, 1991 Heidi Fossnes, 'Norges Bunader og Samiske Folkedrakter', Oslo, 1993 Ellen Scheel et al, 'Bunad-Brodering', Oslo, 1997 Janice Stewart, 'The Folk Arts of Norway', University of Wisconsin, 1953 Guvnor Traetteberg, 'Folk Costumes of Norway', Oslo, 1966, 1976 Thorbjorg Ugland, 'A Sampler of Norway's Folk Costumes', Oslo, 1996 Laila Duran, 'Scandinavian Folklore vol I - III', Sweden, 2011-2013

Hello all, Part three of this overview is forthcoming. I was asked about the costumes of Trondelag, and so I wrote this one first. This is the fourth part of my overview of Norwegian Costumes. This will cover all of Norway from Trondelag north. Here Norway starts to overlap Sapmi, commonly called Lappland. I will not be covering the Saami costumes of Norway, as I have already written about them. They are a completely separate costume tradition, and it makes no sense to separate the part which is in Norway from the rest of Sapmi, which lies in Sweden, Finland, and Russia. While Trondheim is an old Norse city, Norwegian settlement becomes more recent the further north you go, and the costume tradition becomes very thin. The Norwegians are not indigenous to the north in the same way as they are to the south. The National Bunad Council Bunad- og Folkedraktrådet , the authority on national costumes appointed by the government, has developed five categories to grade modern day bunads according to ‘authentic’ regional folk clothing: Category 1 – a bunad that represents a ‘final’ link’ in the development of a folk costume. This is basically an original folk costume that has taken on the function of a bunad. Category 2 – a bunad that has a background in a particular folk costume that is out of use but not forgotten. It is generally reconstructed from first-hand knowledge. Actual old garments exist. Category 3 – a bunad that has been reconstructed from preserved folk garments which reflect the actual time and region of the piece. Pictures and writings are used as sources in reconstruction. Category 4 – a bunad that has been made based on random and incomplete folk material. Missing pieces have been designed to match the style of the materials. Category 5 – a bunad that has been completely or partially ‘freely composed’. It was the 1800s bunad movement that has given these types of bunad their status. New ‘bunads’ that are being designed every year, must go through the strict judgement process of the National Bunad Council in order to be classified as a proper ‘bunad’. The council is very strict in making sure new additions follow closely the traditions and history of the area. Because of this, many designs today, even though they have the same function as a bunad, generally don’t make the cut and thus can not be called ‘bunads’. They receive the name drakt. Costumes are readily available in Norway, there are many businesses which make them. These are called Husflid. They are, however, expensive, as the Norwegians believe in paying a living wage to people who do things like embroider or weave by hand. For every one of these costumes, whether bunad or drakt, there is at least one sewing house, or husflid, which specializes in making it. All of the costumes from the north are either designed or reconstructed, with the single exception of the Røros region, where the costume tradition was still within living memory at the beginning of the 20th cent. The girls at the top of this article are in Røros costume. Trøndelag This area is centered around the city of Trondheim. It is currently split into two provinces. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tr%C3%B8ndelag There is a bunad which was designed for all of Trøndelag. cat. 4 Work on designing the costume started in 1920. It was based on various pieces which were found around the region. As it was intended to cover a large area, more variation was incorporated than was usual at that time. A couple of different aprons are used, and the colors were traditionally either blue, green or red. There is now a black and gold variant, and I have seen a photo of one in rust. Old photographs show a greater variety of material used. A veil may be worn over the cap. South Trøndelag South Trondelag has the richest costume tradition of any of the provinces which we will cover today. The map, like the one of Agder, shows white areas signifying unspecified costume traditions. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S%C3%B8r-Tr%C3%B8ndelag The city of Trondheim has a drakt which was designed for it. It has not been approved as a bunad. cat 5 No comment. Røros This is a mining area, and the southern edge of Sapmi. The costumes can be made in a wide variety of colors and fabrics. The girl's costume is distinct from that of married women. They still wear a jacket as part of the formal bunad. There are three regions in this district, Røros itself, Haltdalen and Tydal. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R%C3%B8ros Røros cat 2 Folk dance from Roros, the pols. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGBSxeNNcxo There is an embroidered bunad which was designed for this area, called the Bergstadbunad. It features embroidery of some of the local wildflowers. cat.5 Haltdalen This costume is very similar to that of Roros. cat 4 Tydal This is part of the Roros district, the bunad is somewhat distinct, but still similar. cat 4 Selbu This costume features embroidered caps, pockets and shawls. The bodice and vest are of block printed cloth. cat 3 Gauldal cat 4 mens bunad only Oppdal cat 4 Rennebu and Meldal men cat 3 Rennebu Womens bunad cat 4 Meldal Womens bunad cat 4 Orkdal cat 3 Orkdalsdrakt This is a designed embroidered costume for Orkdal cat 5 Orkladalen This is another reconstructed bunad for the three previous districts of Sennebu, Meldal and Orkdal, which formed the ancient kingdom of Orkladalen. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orkdalen Hitra This is an island near the south border of South Trondelag. This drakt is based on an old drawing. cat 4 Fosen Fosen lies north of the Trondheim fjord, and has land borders only with North Trondelag, but is jurisdictionally part of South Trondelag. The bunad is very similar to that of North Trondelag. It features a quilted skirt, and seems to be based at least in part on the drawing just above. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fosen cat 3 North Trøndelag https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nord-Tr%C3%B8ndelag This area is much less populated than South Trondelag. There are only three bunads and a couple of drakts from this province. North Trondelag embroidered bunad. Also called the Floan bunad. This was put together in 1938. It seems to feature four different possible embroidery patterns. cat 4 North Trondelag reconstructed bunad. This represents the 1700s. This was presented in 1992. cat 3 Namdalen Namdalen is close to the coast, next to Fosen. This bunad was designed in 1950. women 4, men 3 Leksvik Leksvik is on the north bank of the Tronderfjord across from Trondheim. This drakt was designed in 1992 and features embroidery of wildflowers. There are 4 variants. cat 5 Mosvik Mosvik is next to Leksvik, just up the fjord. This drakt is a free composition. cat 5 Overhalla Overhalla is further north, just past Namdalen. The embroidery on this drakt was taken from a bridal skirt found in the area. cat 5 Nordland The climate here is remarkably temperate, with some of the few temperate rain forests that can be found in Europe. The fisheries are exceptionally rich. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordland The Nordland bunad comes in inland and coastal variants, green and blue, respectively. The embroidery and cut come from garments found in Vefsn. It was designed in 1928 cat 5 The Mens bunad is also used in Troms cat 4 Vega This is a group of islands in the south of Nordland. This drakt was a free composition in 1995. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vega,_Norway Hamarøy This municipality is in the north of Nordland. This bunad was designed in 1939. women cat 4, men cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hamar%C3%B8y Ofoten Ofoten is a district in the northeast corner of Nordland. The bunad was based on several garments from the area, including an embroidered apron which was found in Canada. The floral embroidery on the apron was added by the designers. The design was finished in 1989. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ofoten Lofoten Lofoten is a district in the north of Nordland, consisting of a peninsula and a large group of islands. The bunad was designed in 1942 cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lofoten Troms This province lies completely north of the Arctic Circle. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troms Troms bunad This features the weaving tradition of the area. It was designed in 1967 cat 4 Troms Festdrakt This was a free composition based on the folk embroidery of Troms. cat 5 The rest of the costumes of this province are connected to particular districts. There are a remarkable number of small communities which have designed their own costumes. Bardu and Målselv These two districts are in the southeast of Troms. They were first settled by Norwegians in 1788. The Saami call the area Bearddu. Since many of the early settlers came from Gudbrandsdal, it was decided to model the bunad for this area on the Gudbrandsdal bunad. The design of the bunad was finished in the 1960s. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bardu Balsfjord This municipality lies just north of Malselv. It is a fertile region that lies between two fjords. This bunad was finished in 1979. It features a cap for girls and a kerchief for married women. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balsfjord Malangen This was a former municipality centered around the Malangen fjord, which lies between Balsfjord and Lenvik. The territory has since been divided among neighboring districts. The drakt was designed to represent the culture and nature of the area, including a stylized letter M. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malangen Lenvik Lenvik district is west of Balsfjord, split between the mainland and the island of Senja. The drakt was composed in 1981 and aggressively features dandelions in its embroidery and silver jewelry. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lenvik Senja Senja is an island off the southern coast of Troms, it is split between four municipalities, one of which is Lenvik. The drakt was designed in 1978 and the style of the 70s is evident. It features either a brown bodice or a red one. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Senja Tromsø This is the next municipality north along the coast, including the city of Tromsø and the island of Tromsøya along with other islands and a big chunk of the coastline. The drakt features embroided Queen Anne's Lace. cat 5 Karlsøy This is the next municipality as we continue north along the coast. It is made up of islands. My sources disagree whether this is a bunad or a festdrakt. It features naturalistic floral embroidery. It comes in blue or red. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karls%C3%B8y Helgøy This is a former municipality which is currently incorporated into Karlsoy. The actual village of Helgoy is no longer inhabited. The drakt features embroidery of one specific plant, the Northern Dock, Rumex longifolius. I do not know why this plant was considered significant. The design was completed in 2000. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helg%C3%B8y Skjervøy This is the next municipality as you continue north. It also consists of a group of islands. This costume was designed by Dagmar Haugberg. My sources disagree as to whether this is a bunad or a drakt. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skjerv%C3%B8y Lyngen This municipality lies on a peninsula to the south of Skjervoy. This drakt was designed in 1985. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lyngen This image shows the Nordland bunad on the left, and the Lyngen festdrakt on the right. Kåfjord This municipality lies east of Lyngen on the mainland. The bunad was a free composition which took its inspiration from the natural richness of the area. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G%C3%A1ivuotna%E2%80%93K%C3%A5fjord Nordreisa This district lies northeast of Kafjord.The costume, called a bygdedrakt, is an attempt to reconstruct the historical clothing of the area. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordreisa Kvaenangen This district lies at the northeast end of Troms, next to Finnmark. The name means Kven Fjord. Most people in this area now consider themselves to be Norwegian, although the majority are of Saami or Kven ancestry. The bunad was a free composition in 1996. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kv%C3%A6nangen Kven The Kven are an ethnic minority in Troms and Finnmark, as well as adjacent parts of Sweden. They are descended from Finnish settlers who came to the area in the 18th and 19th cent. Their drakt reflects their Finnish heritage. Some of them still speak their distinctive dialect. In this image, a Kven couple poses with a family in the Nordreisa bygdedrakt. Finnmark This is the largest and least populated province of Norway. In the interior, the Saami are the majority, while on the islands, the Norwegians are. The fjord areas are mixed. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finnmark Finnmark has several Saami costumes which are very much alive, but there is only one Norwegian bunad and two drakts for this area. Finnmark bunad This bunad was designed in 1967. There was little native material to go on, but the hat was traditional. Notice the pendant which is attached to the bodice. cat 5 Finnmark Festdrakt This is a free composition based on the sewing traditions of Finnmark. cat 5 Vardø This municipality is the furthest east in Norway.This drakt was designed to symbolize the area. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vard%C3%B8 Svalbard Svalbard is a group of islands which lies far north of the Arctic circle. It had no human inhabitants until modern times. It is now under Norwegian jurisdiction. It has the northernmost permanent civilian population of any settlement in the world. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Svalbard The tradition is that only those who have spent all four seasons on Svalbard are permitted to wear this bunad. cat 5 This concludes my overview of Norwegian costume. I will return to look at individual costumes in more detail. Thank you for reading. I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. Roman K. email - [email protected] Source Material: Aagot Noss, 'Draktskikk i Aust-Telemark', Oslo, 2010 Kari-Anne Pedersen, 'Folkedrakt blir Bunad', Cappelen Damm, 2013 Bjorn Sverre hol Haugen, 'Norsk Bunadleksikon' Oslo, 2009 Kjersti Skavhaug et al, 'Norwegian Bunads', Oslo, 1991 Heidi Fossnes, 'Norges Bunader og Samiske Folkedrakter', Oslo, 1993 Ellen Scheel et al, 'Bunad-Brodering', Oslo, 1997 Janice Stewart, 'The Folk Arts of Norway', University of Wisconsin, 1953 Guvnor Traetteberg, 'Folk Costumes of Norway', Oslo, 1966, 1976 Thorbjorg Ugland, 'A Sampler of Norway's Folk Costumes', Oslo, 1996 Laila Duran, 'Scandinavian Folklore vol I - III', Sweden, 2011-2013

Hello all, This is the second part of my overview of the costumes of Norway. This will cover the central row of provinces in Eastern N...

Hello all, Part three of this overview is forthcoming. I was asked about the costumes of Trondelag, and so I wrote this one first. This is the fourth part of my overview of Norwegian Costumes. This will cover all of Norway from Trondelag north. Here Norway starts to overlap Sapmi, commonly called Lappland. I will not be covering the Saami costumes of Norway, as I have already written about them. They are a completely separate costume tradition, and it makes no sense to separate the part which is in Norway from the rest of Sapmi, which lies in Sweden, Finland, and Russia. While Trondheim is an old Norse city, Norwegian settlement becomes more recent the further north you go, and the costume tradition becomes very thin. The Norwegians are not indigenous to the north in the same way as they are to the south. The National Bunad Council Bunad- og Folkedraktrådet , the authority on national costumes appointed by the government, has developed five categories to grade modern day bunads according to ‘authentic’ regional folk clothing: Category 1 – a bunad that represents a ‘final’ link’ in the development of a folk costume. This is basically an original folk costume that has taken on the function of a bunad. Category 2 – a bunad that has a background in a particular folk costume that is out of use but not forgotten. It is generally reconstructed from first-hand knowledge. Actual old garments exist. Category 3 – a bunad that has been reconstructed from preserved folk garments which reflect the actual time and region of the piece. Pictures and writings are used as sources in reconstruction. Category 4 – a bunad that has been made based on random and incomplete folk material. Missing pieces have been designed to match the style of the materials. Category 5 – a bunad that has been completely or partially ‘freely composed’. It was the 1800s bunad movement that has given these types of bunad their status. New ‘bunads’ that are being designed every year, must go through the strict judgement process of the National Bunad Council in order to be classified as a proper ‘bunad’. The council is very strict in making sure new additions follow closely the traditions and history of the area. Because of this, many designs today, even though they have the same function as a bunad, generally don’t make the cut and thus can not be called ‘bunads’. They receive the name drakt. Costumes are readily available in Norway, there are many businesses which make them. These are called Husflid. They are, however, expensive, as the Norwegians believe in paying a living wage to people who do things like embroider or weave by hand. For every one of these costumes, whether bunad or drakt, there is at least one sewing house, or husflid, which specializes in making it. All of the costumes from the north are either designed or reconstructed, with the single exception of the Røros region, where the costume tradition was still within living memory at the beginning of the 20th cent. The girls at the top of this article are in Røros costume. Trøndelag This area is centered around the city of Trondheim. It is currently split into two provinces. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tr%C3%B8ndelag There is a bunad which was designed for all of Trøndelag. cat. 4 Work on designing the costume started in 1920. It was based on various pieces which were found around the region. As it was intended to cover a large area, more variation was incorporated than was usual at that time. A couple of different aprons are used, and the colors were traditionally either blue, green or red. There is now a black and gold variant, and I have seen a photo of one in rust. Old photographs show a greater variety of material used. A veil may be worn over the cap. South Trøndelag South Trondelag has the richest costume tradition of any of the provinces which we will cover today. The map, like the one of Agder, shows white areas signifying unspecified costume traditions. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S%C3%B8r-Tr%C3%B8ndelag The city of Trondheim has a drakt which was designed for it. It has not been approved as a bunad. cat 5 No comment. Røros This is a mining area, and the southern edge of Sapmi. The costumes can be made in a wide variety of colors and fabrics. The girl's costume is distinct from that of married women. They still wear a jacket as part of the formal bunad. There are three regions in this district, Røros itself, Haltdalen and Tydal. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R%C3%B8ros Røros cat 2 Folk dance from Roros, the pols. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGBSxeNNcxo There is an embroidered bunad which was designed for this area, called the Bergstadbunad. It features embroidery of some of the local wildflowers. cat.5 Haltdalen This costume is very similar to that of Roros. cat 4 Tydal This is part of the Roros district, the bunad is somewhat distinct, but still similar. cat 4 Selbu This costume features embroidered caps, pockets and shawls. The bodice and vest are of block printed cloth. cat 3 Gauldal cat 4 mens bunad only Oppdal cat 4 Rennebu and Meldal men cat 3 Rennebu Womens bunad cat 4 Meldal Womens bunad cat 4 Orkdal cat 3 Orkdalsdrakt This is a designed embroidered costume for Orkdal cat 5 Orkladalen This is another reconstructed bunad for the three previous districts of Sennebu, Meldal and Orkdal, which formed the ancient kingdom of Orkladalen. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orkdalen Hitra This is an island near the south border of South Trondelag. This drakt is based on an old drawing. cat 4 Fosen Fosen lies north of the Trondheim fjord, and has land borders only with North Trondelag, but is jurisdictionally part of South Trondelag. The bunad is very similar to that of North Trondelag. It features a quilted skirt, and seems to be based at least in part on the drawing just above. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fosen cat 3 North Trøndelag https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nord-Tr%C3%B8ndelag This area is much less populated than South Trondelag. There are only three bunads and a couple of drakts from this province. North Trondelag embroidered bunad. Also called the Floan bunad. This was put together in 1938. It seems to feature four different possible embroidery patterns. cat 4 North Trondelag reconstructed bunad. This represents the 1700s. This was presented in 1992. cat 3 Namdalen Namdalen is close to the coast, next to Fosen. This bunad was designed in 1950. women 4, men 3 Leksvik Leksvik is on the north bank of the Tronderfjord across from Trondheim. This drakt was designed in 1992 and features embroidery of wildflowers. There are 4 variants. cat 5 Mosvik Mosvik is next to Leksvik, just up the fjord. This drakt is a free composition. cat 5 Overhalla Overhalla is further north, just past Namdalen. The embroidery on this drakt was taken from a bridal skirt found in the area. cat 5 Nordland The climate here is remarkably temperate, with some of the few temperate rain forests that can be found in Europe. The fisheries are exceptionally rich. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordland The Nordland bunad comes in inland and coastal variants, green and blue, respectively. The embroidery and cut come from garments found in Vefsn. It was designed in 1928 cat 5 The Mens bunad is also used in Troms cat 4 Vega This is a group of islands in the south of Nordland. This drakt was a free composition in 1995. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vega,_Norway Hamarøy This municipality is in the north of Nordland. This bunad was designed in 1939. women cat 4, men cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hamar%C3%B8y Ofoten Ofoten is a district in the northeast corner of Nordland. The bunad was based on several garments from the area, including an embroidered apron which was found in Canada. The floral embroidery on the apron was added by the designers. The design was finished in 1989. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ofoten Lofoten Lofoten is a district in the north of Nordland, consisting of a peninsula and a large group of islands. The bunad was designed in 1942 cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lofoten Troms This province lies completely north of the Arctic Circle. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troms Troms bunad This features the weaving tradition of the area. It was designed in 1967 cat 4 Troms Festdrakt This was a free composition based on the folk embroidery of Troms. cat 5 The rest of the costumes of this province are connected to particular districts. There are a remarkable number of small communities which have designed their own costumes. Bardu and Målselv These two districts are in the southeast of Troms. They were first settled by Norwegians in 1788. The Saami call the area Bearddu. Since many of the early settlers came from Gudbrandsdal, it was decided to model the bunad for this area on the Gudbrandsdal bunad. The design of the bunad was finished in the 1960s. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bardu Balsfjord This municipality lies just north of Malselv. It is a fertile region that lies between two fjords. This bunad was finished in 1979. It features a cap for girls and a kerchief for married women. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balsfjord Malangen This was a former municipality centered around the Malangen fjord, which lies between Balsfjord and Lenvik. The territory has since been divided among neighboring districts. The drakt was designed to represent the culture and nature of the area, including a stylized letter M. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malangen Lenvik Lenvik district is west of Balsfjord, split between the mainland and the island of Senja. The drakt was composed in 1981 and aggressively features dandelions in its embroidery and silver jewelry. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lenvik Senja Senja is an island off the southern coast of Troms, it is split between four municipalities, one of which is Lenvik. The drakt was designed in 1978 and the style of the 70s is evident. It features either a brown bodice or a red one. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Senja Tromsø This is the next municipality north along the coast, including the city of Tromsø and the island of Tromsøya along with other islands and a big chunk of the coastline. The drakt features embroided Queen Anne's Lace. cat 5 Karlsøy This is the next municipality as we continue north along the coast. It is made up of islands. My sources disagree whether this is a bunad or a festdrakt. It features naturalistic floral embroidery. It comes in blue or red. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karls%C3%B8y Helgøy This is a former municipality which is currently incorporated into Karlsoy. The actual village of Helgoy is no longer inhabited. The drakt features embroidery of one specific plant, the Northern Dock, Rumex longifolius. I do not know why this plant was considered significant. The design was completed in 2000. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helg%C3%B8y Skjervøy This is the next municipality as you continue north. It also consists of a group of islands. This costume was designed by Dagmar Haugberg. My sources disagree as to whether this is a bunad or a drakt. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skjerv%C3%B8y Lyngen This municipality lies on a peninsula to the south of Skjervoy. This drakt was designed in 1985. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lyngen This image shows the Nordland bunad on the left, and the Lyngen festdrakt on the right. Kåfjord This municipality lies east of Lyngen on the mainland. The bunad was a free composition which took its inspiration from the natural richness of the area. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G%C3%A1ivuotna%E2%80%93K%C3%A5fjord Nordreisa This district lies northeast of Kafjord.The costume, called a bygdedrakt, is an attempt to reconstruct the historical clothing of the area. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordreisa Kvaenangen This district lies at the northeast end of Troms, next to Finnmark. The name means Kven Fjord. Most people in this area now consider themselves to be Norwegian, although the majority are of Saami or Kven ancestry. The bunad was a free composition in 1996. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kv%C3%A6nangen Kven The Kven are an ethnic minority in Troms and Finnmark, as well as adjacent parts of Sweden. They are descended from Finnish settlers who came to the area in the 18th and 19th cent. Their drakt reflects their Finnish heritage. Some of them still speak their distinctive dialect. In this image, a Kven couple poses with a family in the Nordreisa bygdedrakt. Finnmark This is the largest and least populated province of Norway. In the interior, the Saami are the majority, while on the islands, the Norwegians are. The fjord areas are mixed. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finnmark Finnmark has several Saami costumes which are very much alive, but there is only one Norwegian bunad and two drakts for this area. Finnmark bunad This bunad was designed in 1967. There was little native material to go on, but the hat was traditional. Notice the pendant which is attached to the bodice. cat 5 Finnmark Festdrakt This is a free composition based on the sewing traditions of Finnmark. cat 5 Vardø This municipality is the furthest east in Norway.This drakt was designed to symbolize the area. cat 5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vard%C3%B8 Svalbard Svalbard is a group of islands which lies far north of the Arctic circle. It had no human inhabitants until modern times. It is now under Norwegian jurisdiction. It has the northernmost permanent civilian population of any settlement in the world. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Svalbard The tradition is that only those who have spent all four seasons on Svalbard are permitted to wear this bunad. cat 5 This concludes my overview of Norwegian costume. I will return to look at individual costumes in more detail. Thank you for reading. I hope that you have found this to be interesting and informative. Roman K. email - [email protected] Source Material: Aagot Noss, 'Draktskikk i Aust-Telemark', Oslo, 2010 Kari-Anne Pedersen, 'Folkedrakt blir Bunad', Cappelen Damm, 2013 Bjorn Sverre hol Haugen, 'Norsk Bunadleksikon' Oslo, 2009 Kjersti Skavhaug et al, 'Norwegian Bunads', Oslo, 1991 Heidi Fossnes, 'Norges Bunader og Samiske Folkedrakter', Oslo, 1993 Ellen Scheel et al, 'Bunad-Brodering', Oslo, 1997 Janice Stewart, 'The Folk Arts of Norway', University of Wisconsin, 1953 Guvnor Traetteberg, 'Folk Costumes of Norway', Oslo, 1966, 1976 Thorbjorg Ugland, 'A Sampler of Norway's Folk Costumes', Oslo, 1996 Laila Duran, 'Scandinavian Folklore vol I - III', Sweden, 2011-2013