Old-fashioned quilt frames are typically made with a soft wood such as pine. It should come with the stands and frame boards.

My great grandmother didn't use a frame. She sandwiched her quilt between two mattresses. She stitched a row and rolled it up and then, pulled another row out from under the mattress. She quilted sitting on the floor. A frame was only necessary for quilting bees. My great aunt (her sister) had a ceiling frame made with broomcorn slats clamped together with C-clamps. Pulleys were screwed to the ceiling. The ropes were tied around the slats. They ran over the pulleys and were held in place by drape hooks screwed into the walls. Frames from at least 1813 had holes drilled in them for running ropes through the backing to stretch it. In modern times, the backing was tacked or stapled on. Today, we use clips. Only the backing fabric is stretched. The top and batting are basted to prevent them from shifting. Wooden clamps had been in use since at least the 1870s. Some were intended for holding wood slats together, but others were carved as standing clamps to make a floor frame. Metal clamps came into use in 1900. The Stretch Frame, also known as a Floor Frame or Stand Frame hasn't changed much in the last 200+ years. They can still be found in homes today. The one on the top left is probably homemade. The one on the top right is the new FA Edmund's Legacy Frame. I own the Edmund's model 5560D frame on the second row that was marketed with an optional extension kit (5560D1). Both kits are shown beneath the frame. The Edmund's frame on the fourth row is the 5560A. I don't know who manufactured the last frame, but it looks fairly modern and includes an ingenious tool box. Scroll frames were actually intended for making tapestries, but quilters adopted them. On the top row, are two primitive antique scroll frames. I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say that the Scroll Frame is contemporary with the Stretch Frame. Hand frames were such utilitarian objects that dating them is almost impossible without old photos or paintings. If they're primitive, they date before 1900. If they include metal hardware, they date after 1900. The frame on the second row left features a hand carved cogwheel. The one on the second row right is a modern frame. The frame on the third row appears to be a modern homemade version as well. It looks like an adaptation of the Edmund's 5560A. The Dutch Treat Frame on the bottom is another type of scroll frame. Tapestry Frames tilt, whereas quilt frames remain level and stationary. Tapestry frames are also more narrow than quilt frames. If you'll notice, old scroll frames had two legs and round or square rails. An area rug was heavy and had to be advanced or rolled up to make a large rug. Quilt frames always had four legs and flat rails. Combing these two elements has led to some confusion about the different frames and what they're used for. Quilts weren't rolled up. Women sat around a large frame and quilted at arms length. You must keep in mind that the largest antique mattress was a 3/4 size (48x75" or 4ft by 6ft 3"). Women on either side of a four foot wide quilt would have no problem stitching it. They didn't need, nor did they use the massive quilt frames we use today. Despite its simplicity, the Ceiling Frame only came into use during the 1930s to save space. Some time around the 1940s, quilting bees became less commonplace and the market shifted to individual frames and hoops. The Quilt As You Go Frame (bottom left) and Stretcher Bars (bottom right) were ntroduced. In the 1970s, we got the Quilt and Rug Hooking Frame. FA Edmund's, Sears and Gibbs all jumped on the stand hoop bandwagon. Different companies marketed various shapes and sizes of Quilt Hoops. The round, oval, square and half round hoops on the first and second rows were sold by Darice. I don't know who marketed the half round in the middle, but I've never seen one like it. It comes in two parts and has a center bar connecting them. The last one is FA Edmund's border hoop that comes in two sizes. The Quilter's Lap Hoop is two hoop sizes in one. FA Edmund's has recently introduced an upgraded model of the standing quilt hoop. Table Embroidery Frame Table Embroidery Hoop Cross Stitch Frame Needlepoint Frames PVC Snap Frames were recently introduced. They're so cheap and lightweight, they can easily be built at home.

Build your own DIY quilting frames in an afternoon with this easy step-by-step guide. Free plans complete with a cut list and instructions.

Are you looking for an affordable option for longarm quilting? Follow my journey as I look for the best budget options for purchasing a quilting longarm.

Enjoy the freedom and creativity of hand quilting without marking.

Quilt frames may seem complicated and expensive to someone just beginning to quilt, however, with these simple steps anyone can make their own inexpensive quilt frame.

My great grandmother didn't use a frame. She sandwiched her quilt between two mattresses. She stitched a row and rolled it up and then, pulled another row out from under the mattress. She quilted sitting on the floor. A frame was only necessary for quilting bees. My great aunt (her sister) had a ceiling frame made with broomcorn slats clamped together with C-clamps. Pulleys were screwed to the ceiling. The ropes were tied around the slats. They ran over the pulleys and were held in place by drape hooks screwed into the walls. Frames from at least 1813 had holes drilled in them for running ropes through the backing to stretch it. In modern times, the backing was tacked or stapled on. Today, we use clips. Only the backing fabric is stretched. The top and batting are basted to prevent them from shifting. Wooden clamps had been in use since at least the 1870s. Some were intended for holding wood slats together, but others were carved as standing clamps to make a floor frame. Metal clamps came into use in 1900. The Stretch Frame, also known as a Floor Frame or Stand Frame hasn't changed much in the last 200+ years. They can still be found in homes today. The one on the top left is probably homemade. The one on the top right is the new FA Edmund's Legacy Frame. I own the Edmund's model 5560D frame on the second row that was marketed with an optional extension kit (5560D1). Both kits are shown beneath the frame. The Edmund's frame on the fourth row is the 5560A. I don't know who manufactured the last frame, but it looks fairly modern and includes an ingenious tool box. Scroll frames were actually intended for making tapestries, but quilters adopted them. On the top row, are two primitive antique scroll frames. I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say that the Scroll Frame is contemporary with the Stretch Frame. Hand frames were such utilitarian objects that dating them is almost impossible without old photos or paintings. If they're primitive, they date before 1900. If they include metal hardware, they date after 1900. The frame on the second row left features a hand carved cogwheel. The one on the second row right is a modern frame. The frame on the third row appears to be a modern homemade version as well. It looks like an adaptation of the Edmund's 5560A. The Dutch Treat Frame on the bottom is another type of scroll frame. Tapestry Frames tilt, whereas quilt frames remain level and stationary. Tapestry frames are also more narrow than quilt frames. If you'll notice, old scroll frames had two legs and round or square rails. An area rug was heavy and had to be advanced or rolled up to make a large rug. Quilt frames always had four legs and flat rails. Combing these two elements has led to some confusion about the different frames and what they're used for. Quilts weren't rolled up. Women sat around a large frame and quilted at arms length. You must keep in mind that the largest antique mattress was a 3/4 size (48x75" or 4ft by 6ft 3"). Women on either side of a four foot wide quilt would have no problem stitching it. They didn't need, nor did they use the massive quilt frames we use today. Despite its simplicity, the Ceiling Frame only came into use during the 1930s to save space. Some time around the 1940s, quilting bees became less commonplace and the market shifted to individual frames and hoops. The Quilt As You Go Frame (bottom left) and Stretcher Bars (bottom right) were ntroduced. In the 1970s, we got the Quilt and Rug Hooking Frame. FA Edmund's, Sears and Gibbs all jumped on the stand hoop bandwagon. Different companies marketed various shapes and sizes of Quilt Hoops. The round, oval, square and half round hoops on the first and second rows were sold by Darice. I don't know who marketed the half round in the middle, but I've never seen one like it. It comes in two parts and has a center bar connecting them. The last one is FA Edmund's border hoop that comes in two sizes. The Quilter's Lap Hoop is two hoop sizes in one. FA Edmund's has recently introduced an upgraded model of the standing quilt hoop. Table Embroidery Frame Table Embroidery Hoop Cross Stitch Frame Needlepoint Frames PVC Snap Frames were recently introduced. They're so cheap and lightweight, they can easily be built at home.

Have a quilting bee with your friends or work on that future heirloom by yourself. Old-fashioned quilt frames are difficult to find but we came across a local Amish family that still makes them. Sturdy, unfinished legs (29-1/2"H x 29"W) support three rollers Takes up much less room than traditional square frames Rollers lift off legs for practical storage Made of poplar USA made Note: Must ship to a physical address (no P.O. boxes). Cannot ship to AK, HI, or internationally.

I love to float a quilt top on my frame. There are several ways to load your quilt onto your quilting frame. My favorite way to load a quilt on a frame is to float a quilt top. I have found this method to be quick and easy. Make sure to watch the video at...

Are you looking for how to build a simple and affordable quilting frame? Here are some practical steps you need to build one by yourself. We did our research an

When it comes to quilting, the process is all about patience and dedication. If you’re looking to create your own quilt, its a great idea to have a free-standing floor quilter’s frame. Floor quilting frames keep your project materials rigid and flat as you work on it.

My Track Mount machine quilting frame Kit is my newest creation. I wanted to create a true carriage and track style frame that I can offer to quilters at a super economical price. A frame that quilters are able to sit at and comfortably machine quilt. A frame that capitalizes on the benefits of the artisans own sewing machine. My quilt frames are the perfect frames for any artisan quilters, beginner or advanced.The frame is perfect for performing detailed machine quilting while you sit comfortably. The quilt frames carriages glide on wheels with steel ball bearings. The frame sits on your table and the frame Design maximizes the use of your home sewing machine. Simply enjoy machine quilting with any home sewing machine. You’re only limited by your own imagination! The quilters using these frames are having a lot of fun and are saving a lot of money by quilting their own quilts.Some report paying for their frame after only the second quilt!! The frames are Adjustable, compact, portable and easy to store. I now provide the frames in a kit version saving the quilter a huge amount of money. With my kits you are able to either build just the tracks and rails (about $10-15.00 for a ten ft wide frame) These frames do and have all of the functionility of frames costing up to 5 times as much. I am sincerely interested in helping quilters learn how to machine quilt with their own setup and have instructional videos and will be adding more videos over the next month. Special What You Get http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8YGZGWPIeQ What You Get and how it works http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uo0srnmICbM Four Part Series on frame setup and use http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKhBEeM_ri8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKhBEeM_ri8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tv0iCwwRdys http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbTgcGmQ9PY Other videos include: Machine Quilting with a home sewing machine http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYbHnfRu5Ts Mounting quilt http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqeGx3IB3cU Project considerations http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtTxunFIpuA

Note to Pinners: THIS FRAME DOES NOT WORK!!!! Please read my comments at the bottom of this article. If you've seen or heard of the Flynn Multi Quilting Frame, you'll know that it costs about $180.00. After careful study, I came up with my own version that is much cheaper. Ask your local lumber yard or hardware store if they have any scraps close to the size you need and have them cut for you. You may want to start with 24" pipes instead of 48" for small projects until you get the hang of using this frame. The longer the rods are, the more flexible they become. For anything longer than 48", you will want furniture grade PVC or wooden dowels which are more rigid. PVC clamps are available from flexpvc.com. (1) 3/4x4x24" Solid pine shelving (3) 48" lengths 1" I.D. Charlotte pipe (2) 18" lengths 3" I.D. Sewer PVC (6) 1" PVC End caps (6) 1" PVC Clamps (4) 24" strips of 1/2" ribbon (8) Small safety pins (6) 1/4 x 2" Carriage bolts (6) 1/4" Wing nuts (6) 1/4" Machine nuts (12) 5/8" washers 1/4" Open end wrench PVC glue Vise clamps, large and small Shop vise (optional) Skill saw Jig saw Drill 1/4" drill bit 1/4" cutting bit Sheet of poster board Pencil Ruler Soda can Scissors Craft Bond spray adhesive Use the poster board to make two templates. Measure and mark two rectangles 18" long x 2-1/2" wide. Use the top of a soda can to round off the ends inside the marks. Erase the pencil marks outside the round ends. From one end, measure 1-1/2" and mark with an X. Measure 2-1/2" from that mark and make another X. Measure 1-1/2" from that mark and draw a 1-1/2" line. From the opposite end, measure 2" and mark with an X. Measure 1-3/4" from that mark and draw a 1-1/2" line 3/8" from the edge. Do the same on the other template. Cut out the templates and glue them beside each other on the wood board. Position them so each edge is flush with the edge of the board on either side leaving space between them for cutting. Use a jig saw to cut the rounded ends first. Then, cut the straight lines with the skill saw. You'll never make a cutting mistake using paper templates. Use a small vise clamp to secure the end caps. Make sure the clamp is holding the bottom of the cap, not the top so you don't crush it. Sit in a solid chair with the clamp between your legs. Hold the clamp steady and drill a 1/4" hole in the center of the cap. Repeat for all the others. It's best to use a drill press for this, if you have one. Lay the boards on top of one another, making sure the hole marks are lined up. Clamp them to a bench and drill the holes. Drill holes just inside the marks at each end of the straight lines. Change to the cutting bit and bore out from hole to hole. Assembly Place a washer and bolt in each end cap hole. Place a washer and nut onto the bolt and tighten with a wrench. Get it as tight as you can. Swirl a bit of pvc glue around the inside of the pipe. Insert the end cap. Let the glue cure. Place a washer on the bolt. Slide the bolt through a hole in the board. Place another washer on the bolt. Place a wing nut on the bolt and tighten. Repeat for the other two pipes. Tension Bands Cut a slit through one end of the ribbon. Slip the cut end through the slit in the wood. Slide the other end through the cut and pull it tight. Make sure the ribbon is under the board edge and not over it. Repeat with the other three ribbons. Different projects may require different lengths of ribbon. It's better to have them too long than too short. Mounting Center the backing fabric on the rod. Secure the fabric to the rods with the PVC clamps. The backing is wound around the first of the two rods on the end. Notice how the fabric is oriented. The wrong side faces up and wraps around the rod from the bottom. Loosen the wing nuts. Roll the backing fabric onto the rod, keeping it straight and tight. Make sure there is enough fabric on the end to wrap around the top rod. Tighten the wing nuts and move this fabric out of the way. Roll up the batting making sure there is enough on the end to wrap around the top rod. Move the batting back out of the way. Secure the fabric to the rods with the PVC clamps. The top is wound around the second of the two rods on the end. Notice how the fabric is oriented. The right side faces up and wraps around the rod from the bottom. Loosen the wing nuts. Roll the top fabric onto the rod, keeping it straight and tight. Make sure there is enough fabric on the end to wrap around the top rod. Tighten the wing nuts and move this fabric out of the way. Replace the backing fabric. Attach a safety pin close to the edge of the fabric. Slide the ribbon through the closed pin and tighten. The pin will pop open if you pull too much. Secure the ribbon with another pin. Repeat for the other three ribbons. The backing fabric and batting are wound around from the bottom. The top is placed over the ends of the batting and backing. Clamp the ends to the rod. Loosen the wing nuts on the top rod and roll the quilt to create tension. Tighten the wing nuts. The rolled batting rests between the first and second rods. The finished quilting is wound around the top rod that goes under the machine throat. Using the Frame Leave the extension table on your sewing machine if it has one. Turn your sewing machine so the throat is behind you rather than to the right. This orientation will take some getting used to. Place the 3" PVC pipes on either side of the machine. They balance the frame and allow freedom of movement in all directions. Remove the foot attachment from the machine. Remove the board and tension bands from one side. Slide the quilt under the foot arm. Don't try to slide the rod under the foot arm; it won't fit. Replace the board and tension bands. Replace the foot attachment and you're ready to stitch your quilt. Roll up the quilt on the top rod as you finish each area. This frame can also be used as a stretching frame and for hand quilting. It may be expanded and used for long arm quilting with your home machine as well. Assessment I tried it out and the only thing I like about it is being able to roll my quilt and not have any wrinkles on the back. The tension bands weren't necessary. The rods provide enough tension to keep the backing tight. It's heavy. There is so much weight on the 3" pipes that it renders them useless, even though they are required for supporting the frame. The frame has to be lifted while stitching to prevent drag. That leads to the other problem of the frame not having enough support. It lacks balance. When the needle is on one end or the other of the quilt, the frame tilts in the opposite direction. The machine and frame has to rest on a long table for adequate support. The 3" pipes do not roll smoothly which causes skips and uneven stitches that lack uniformity. It needs stability. Lastly, it isn't fair to call this a free motion frame because the movement is so limited. There is only 3-1/4" of space between the pipe and the needle on my machine. It is best used for narrow continuous line stitching. I recommend that you skip this one and move on to my Rolling Quilt Frame.

I’m sure you’ve seen those cool PVC-pipe quilting frames. People use them for tying quilts and detailed hand quilting. You can buy a PVC quilting frame at most craft stores, but it’s also easy to m…

Build your own DIY quilting frames in an afternoon with this easy step-by-step guide. Free plans complete with a cut list and instructions.

Homemade quilt frames are a great idea if you have the time and energy to build one. If you are on a budget, buying a quilting frame might not be the best option since quilting frames start at $100 and can cost upwards of $2400. That $100 frame...

Note to Pinners: THIS FRAME DOES NOT WORK!!!! Please read my comments at the bottom of this article. If you've seen or heard of the Flynn Multi Quilting Frame, you'll know that it costs about $180.00. After careful study, I came up with my own version that is much cheaper. Ask your local lumber yard or hardware store if they have any scraps close to the size you need and have them cut for you. You may want to start with 24" pipes instead of 48" for small projects until you get the hang of using this frame. The longer the rods are, the more flexible they become. For anything longer than 48", you will want furniture grade PVC or wooden dowels which are more rigid. PVC clamps are available from flexpvc.com. (1) 3/4x4x24" Solid pine shelving (3) 48" lengths 1" I.D. Charlotte pipe (2) 18" lengths 3" I.D. Sewer PVC (6) 1" PVC End caps (6) 1" PVC Clamps (4) 24" strips of 1/2" ribbon (8) Small safety pins (6) 1/4 x 2" Carriage bolts (6) 1/4" Wing nuts (6) 1/4" Machine nuts (12) 5/8" washers 1/4" Open end wrench PVC glue Vise clamps, large and small Shop vise (optional) Skill saw Jig saw Drill 1/4" drill bit 1/4" cutting bit Sheet of poster board Pencil Ruler Soda can Scissors Craft Bond spray adhesive Use the poster board to make two templates. Measure and mark two rectangles 18" long x 2-1/2" wide. Use the top of a soda can to round off the ends inside the marks. Erase the pencil marks outside the round ends. From one end, measure 1-1/2" and mark with an X. Measure 2-1/2" from that mark and make another X. Measure 1-1/2" from that mark and draw a 1-1/2" line. From the opposite end, measure 2" and mark with an X. Measure 1-3/4" from that mark and draw a 1-1/2" line 3/8" from the edge. Do the same on the other template. Cut out the templates and glue them beside each other on the wood board. Position them so each edge is flush with the edge of the board on either side leaving space between them for cutting. Use a jig saw to cut the rounded ends first. Then, cut the straight lines with the skill saw. You'll never make a cutting mistake using paper templates. Use a small vise clamp to secure the end caps. Make sure the clamp is holding the bottom of the cap, not the top so you don't crush it. Sit in a solid chair with the clamp between your legs. Hold the clamp steady and drill a 1/4" hole in the center of the cap. Repeat for all the others. It's best to use a drill press for this, if you have one. Lay the boards on top of one another, making sure the hole marks are lined up. Clamp them to a bench and drill the holes. Drill holes just inside the marks at each end of the straight lines. Change to the cutting bit and bore out from hole to hole. Assembly Place a washer and bolt in each end cap hole. Place a washer and nut onto the bolt and tighten with a wrench. Get it as tight as you can. Swirl a bit of pvc glue around the inside of the pipe. Insert the end cap. Let the glue cure. Place a washer on the bolt. Slide the bolt through a hole in the board. Place another washer on the bolt. Place a wing nut on the bolt and tighten. Repeat for the other two pipes. Tension Bands Cut a slit through one end of the ribbon. Slip the cut end through the slit in the wood. Slide the other end through the cut and pull it tight. Make sure the ribbon is under the board edge and not over it. Repeat with the other three ribbons. Different projects may require different lengths of ribbon. It's better to have them too long than too short. Mounting Center the backing fabric on the rod. Secure the fabric to the rods with the PVC clamps. The backing is wound around the first of the two rods on the end. Notice how the fabric is oriented. The wrong side faces up and wraps around the rod from the bottom. Loosen the wing nuts. Roll the backing fabric onto the rod, keeping it straight and tight. Make sure there is enough fabric on the end to wrap around the top rod. Tighten the wing nuts and move this fabric out of the way. Roll up the batting making sure there is enough on the end to wrap around the top rod. Move the batting back out of the way. Secure the fabric to the rods with the PVC clamps. The top is wound around the second of the two rods on the end. Notice how the fabric is oriented. The right side faces up and wraps around the rod from the bottom. Loosen the wing nuts. Roll the top fabric onto the rod, keeping it straight and tight. Make sure there is enough fabric on the end to wrap around the top rod. Tighten the wing nuts and move this fabric out of the way. Replace the backing fabric. Attach a safety pin close to the edge of the fabric. Slide the ribbon through the closed pin and tighten. The pin will pop open if you pull too much. Secure the ribbon with another pin. Repeat for the other three ribbons. The backing fabric and batting are wound around from the bottom. The top is placed over the ends of the batting and backing. Clamp the ends to the rod. Loosen the wing nuts on the top rod and roll the quilt to create tension. Tighten the wing nuts. The rolled batting rests between the first and second rods. The finished quilting is wound around the top rod that goes under the machine throat. Using the Frame Leave the extension table on your sewing machine if it has one. Turn your sewing machine so the throat is behind you rather than to the right. This orientation will take some getting used to. Place the 3" PVC pipes on either side of the machine. They balance the frame and allow freedom of movement in all directions. Remove the foot attachment from the machine. Remove the board and tension bands from one side. Slide the quilt under the foot arm. Don't try to slide the rod under the foot arm; it won't fit. Replace the board and tension bands. Replace the foot attachment and you're ready to stitch your quilt. Roll up the quilt on the top rod as you finish each area. This frame can also be used as a stretching frame and for hand quilting. It may be expanded and used for long arm quilting with your home machine as well. Assessment I tried it out and the only thing I like about it is being able to roll my quilt and not have any wrinkles on the back. The tension bands weren't necessary. The rods provide enough tension to keep the backing tight. It's heavy. There is so much weight on the 3" pipes that it renders them useless, even though they are required for supporting the frame. The frame has to be lifted while stitching to prevent drag. That leads to the other problem of the frame not having enough support. It lacks balance. When the needle is on one end or the other of the quilt, the frame tilts in the opposite direction. The machine and frame has to rest on a long table for adequate support. The 3" pipes do not roll smoothly which causes skips and uneven stitches that lack uniformity. It needs stability. Lastly, it isn't fair to call this a free motion frame because the movement is so limited. There is only 3-1/4" of space between the pipe and the needle on my machine. It is best used for narrow continuous line stitching. I recommend that you skip this one and move on to my Rolling Quilt Frame.

Quilting has a rich history in the United States. In fact, one might argue that in many ways quilting is unique to the United States. Whatever the case may be, there is a fond appreciation for the beautiful works done by quilters. Our family has a beautiful quilt that hangs in the family room which is a one-of-a-kind representation of so much family history and values. Quilts have a special way of strumming our heart strings and soothing our soul. Believe it or not, the tools necessary for maki

Build your own DIY quilting frames in an afternoon with this easy step-by-step guide. Free plans complete with a cut list and instructions.

I had a request to show my frame setup, pursuant to the endless review of the Flynn Multi Frame Quilting frame from a few weeks ago. I unexpectedly had a quilt occur so rather than wait for my new quilting table to arrive in a couple weeks I decided to put the frame to use. Hm, should have taken…

Explore UK Yankee's 35 photos on Flickr!

My quilt is large, 2 x 2 m and I am still determined to do all the quilting by hand. When I took quilting lessons with Ester Miller in Berlin we worked on those wounderful floor-standing scroll quilt frames which I loved but was not willing to spend that much money on. Besides, those frames are like a bulky piece of furniture which I wouldn’t know where to put when I am not working on a quilt. That’s why I was using a larger hoop frame at first and also tried one of those plastic klip frames a friend gave me. But to be honest once you worked on a large floor-standing quilt frame anything else just doesn’t feel right. And with the technique we learned from Ester Miller you need both hands free for quilting which doesn’t work with frames you have to hold in one hand. I always thought about the quilting bees in the old days on frames they made themselfs and kept looking for “how-to’s” for a frame that would fit into my appartment. I did not find anything I liked that is when I started to make up my mind about my own version of a two poles floor-standing scroll frame and here it is: Nachdem der PDF link meiner deutschen Anleitung verloren gegangen ist hier jetzt in rot einfach die kurze deutsche Übersetzung der Bauanleitung meine IKEA Hacks - Quiltständer / Quiltrahmen. The Material I used is: my kitchen table ;-) ( actually it is the table legs Vika Artur new name is FINNVARD MITTBACK from IKEA which look a little bit like sawhorses but have two seperate top bars for adjusting the hight of your table. Between the two bars you can easily secure the side poles of your quilt frame) two wooden poles approx. 30 cm longer than your quilt (you need 15 cm minimum on both ends to hold the poles between the bars of “Artur”, smooth sanded otherwise your quilt fabric might get damaged. In my example I used flat ones but if I’d do is again I would choose round poles. 4 screwclamps 4 smaller “regular” clamps two pieces of 30 – 50 cm long string (I used cotton fabric string) two stips of Linen (or any other strong material) a little shorter than the length of your poles, widths 10 cm Only tool needed is a tacker with staples long enough to secure the fabric strips on the poles Das Material, das ich verwendete habe: mein Küchentisch ;-) (eigentlich sind es nur die Tischbeine Vika Artur [Ikea hat sie umbenannt, sie heißen jetzt FINNVARD] von IKEA, die ein wenig wie Sägeböcke aussehen, nur haben sie zwei separate „Balken“ oben mit denen die Höhe des Tischs eingestellt werden kann. Zwischen den beiden „Balken“ kann man ganz einfach die Seitenpole des Quiltrahmens befestigen) zwei Holzstangen ca. 30 cm länger als der Quilt selbst (es werden mindestens 15 cm an beiden Enden der Stangen benötigt um sie zwischen den Balken von " Arthur" FINNVARD zu befestigen, darauf achten dass das Holz glatt geschliffen ist sonst könnten sie den Quilt beschädigt. In meinem Beispiel habe ich flache „Stangen“ verwendet, würde aber beim nächsten Mal sicher runde Stangen nehmen 4 Schraubzwingen 4 kleineren "normalen" Klemmen zwei 30 - 50 cm lange Stück Stoffband (ich habe Baumwolleband verwendet) zwei Streifen Leinen (oder ein anderes festes Material) etwas kürzer als die Länge der Stangen, Breite ca. 10 cm das einzige benötigte Werkzeug, ist ein Tacker mit Klammern die lang genug sind, um die Stoffstreifen an den Polen sicher zu befestigen Tacker the fabric on to the wooden poles. Befestige die Leinen/Stoffstreifen an den Stangen. Now you are ready to attach the quilt to the frame. As my quilt was a work already in progress it was “properly” prepared. The quilting design was marked and the backing, wadding and top where tacked with basting stitches. (on the website of Cotton Patch you can find a very good description of how to prepare your quilt and they offer the “real frames” too) couldn't find it on that website any longer you will have to google for an instruction) Jetzt kann der Quilt auf dem Rahmen/Stangen befestigen werden. Mein Quilt war bereits "richtig" vorbereitet. Das Quiltmuster hatte ich bereits aufgezeichnet, die Rückseite mit dem Vlies und dem Quilttop waren bereits sauber zusammen geheftet. All three layers of your quilt need to be attached to the fabric stips on the poles. The fabric strip should be facing up ( see picture above) and the entire quilt needs to be smooth and flat between the two poles. If you are in doubt do it again otherwise you might regret it when you quilt it in your frame later. Das gesamte Sandwich (alle drei Schichten des Quilts) müssen an den Leinen/Stoffstreifen der Stangen befestigt werden. Der Leinen/Stoffstreifen sollte nach oben zeigen (siehe Bild oben) und das Quiltsandwich sollte glatt und ohne Falten zwischen den beiden Stangen liegen. Wenn Du Dir nicht ganz sicher bist, befestige es lieber noch einmal sauber und glatt, sonst bereust Du es später beim Quilten im Rahmen. Roll up the enire quilt on one of the poles and give it a little tension. First, put the “empty” pole between the sidebars of the “Vikar Artur” "FINNVARD" table leg (see picture below) and secure it on both ends with a screwclamp. Then roll off just as much of the quilt to barely fit the lenght of “Artur”. Pull it tight and now secure both ends of the second pole with a screwclamp. Roll den gesamten Quilt jetzt gleichmäßig und ruhig ein bisschen fester auf einer der Stangen auf. Dann befestige die „leere“ Stange zuerst zwischen den „Balken“ von Arthur FINNVARDs Tischbein (siehe Bild unten) und sichere sie mit einer Schraubzwinge an beiden Seiten. Dann einfach so viel von dem Quilt abrollen das er gerade so bis an die andere Seite von Artur FINNVARD passt. Ziehe ihn leicht stramm und sicherer nun die beiden Enden der zweiten Stange ebenfalls mit den Schraubzwingen. With the “regular” clamps and the string I pulled the sides of my quilt tight (which is optional I think, see if you need to). Mit den "normalen" Klemmen und dem Stoffband habe ich die Seiten meines Quilts etwas stramm gezogen (was eher optional ist, einfach selbst beurteilen ob Du es brauchst). When you finished quilting the part of your quilt in the frame just open the screwclamps, roll the finished part on the "empty pole" and put all clamps back on. Wenn Du den Teil deines Quilts im Rahmen fertig gequiltet hast, einfach die Schraubzwinen öffnen und den Quilt entsprechen weiter auf die „leere“ Stange aufrollen und wieder festklemmen. Now when I finished the quilt or want to take a longer break I just disassemble the frame. I can put the quilt rolled-up on the poles under my bed and Artur will become my kitchentable again. Und wenn mein Quilt fertig gequiltet ist oder ich eine längere Quiltpause einlege, zerlege ich den Rahmen wieder in seine Einzelteile. Artur FINNVARD wird wieder mein Küchentisch und die Stangen lege ich unter mein Bett. Quiltrahmen von Redwork in Germany steht unter einer Creative Commons Namensnennung-Keine kommerzielle Nutzung-Weitergabe unter gleichen Bedingungen 3.0 Deutschland Lizenz. This instruction is almost 10 years old, in the meantime you can find alternative versions on the web: Diese Anleitung ist jetzt schon fast zehn Jahre alt, in der Zwischenzeit gibt es bereits alternative Versionen im Netz: Blogspot of Celebrate Hand Quilting Group http://www.celebratehandquilting.com/2012/04/diy-inexpensive-home-hand-quilting.html Other sites with just pictures of finished IKEA Hack quilt frames for inspiration: Andere Seiten nur mit Bildern des fertigen Quiltrahmen / Quiltständer IKEA HACKs als Inspiration: Nice pictures of rolled up quilt and IKEA Quilt Frame “legs” http://quarterinchmark.blogspot.de/2011_11_01_archive.html Beautiful version, I like it in white better than mine in birch http://onlyangelika.blogspot.de/2011/08/ikea-hack.html http://goldenprecious-patchuli.blogspot.de/2011/07/stangenquiltrahmen.html http://www.patchwork-quilt-forum.de/eigenbau-quiltrahmen-t9306.html

Here is my quilting room. My husband calls it the "Woman Cave". However, I love it!!! This is the latest quilt that I have been working on. It is a "Nine Patch" pattern. When I say "Old Fashion Quilting Frame" it is because when I was advanced enough in my sewing adventure and wanted to start quilting my Grandmother said go to Carter Lumber and buy 2 x 4's to make a set of saw horses and two other pieces of board for the wrapping of the quilt and wah-lah!!! I have my quilting frame. I wouldn't trade it for any up to date boughten frame. It is priceless to me because Grandma told us how to make it. There's not a day that goes by that I don't look at that quilting frame and not think of my Grandma. For Grandma's are priceless, also!!!

Kit #3 Four Roll carriage type frame Price $255.00 Includes USPS priority shipping within the US, for shipment to other countries please contact me for current pricing.We also accept postal money orders, contact for details email: [email protected] I will be back with more frames for sale in March 2020 Please email us if you want to be added to the list for march 2020 Kind Regards & Happy Holidays The frame is designed by an artisan quilters for Sitting comfortably while you work. The project has been and is a solution for quilters to machine their own quilts at home with their home sewing machines. It is hand made from both new and recycled materials. A few frames each month to share with other quilters. These are the same kits previously sold since 2011 in Ken Lund’s Etsy, shop kennethlund Machine Quilt Frames & Alternative Bamboo Rod Building The quilt frame is the perfect solution for the handy person to build their own track and carriage machine quilting frame with the components provided and a few extra items available at a home center or hardware store. This frame is being used in several countries around the world by artisan quilters. It is one of the best most usable machine quilting frames at any price. The quilt frame Design maximizes the use of your home sewing machine. It was designed for those desiring to sit comfortably and utilize their home sewing machine to produce astounding results. The frame will do a wide range of quilting on "shoestring " budgets without compromising functionality. The frame provides the features of frames costing much more than the cost of the kits we offer. The design provides excellent visibility and flexibility allowing the artisan to work close to your work. The kit requires supplies commonly available at a local hardware store to make the rolls. and miscellaneous hardware* (the cost of shipping the supplies is more than the cost of purchasing locally.)* Please note we no longer use a track. Guides may be used on a flat surface. Depending on the type of table you use you will need to make something to attach the side frames to. I have had users report paying for their frame after just a couple of quilting projects when compared to the cost of sending their project out to be machine quilted. The kit makes up the frame similar to the ones shown on the following videos: (The new frames include our latest design improvements.) What You Get What You Get and how it works Four Part Series on frame setup and use http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKhBEeM_ri8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKhBEeM_ri8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tv0iCwwRdys http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbTgcGmQ9PY Instructional & Quick Tips Videos Be sure to watch my Youtube instructional videos What you get* This kit comes with knob handles for roll tightening. Skate type wheels on both carriages. Please note All wheels are recycled and may vary, however all wheels come with steel ball bearings. The frame components are made from both new and recycled wood. The components are rough sanded and may require additional finishing as one desires. With the frame kit you can make any width of frame you desire. Many individuals make a 120” setup and also a 60” setup. The kit comes with: (1) Lower carriage (1) upper carriage (8) carriage wheels with steel ball bearings (2) end frame assemblies with braces (2) Handles (8) roll end connectors with knob handles The frame kits are hand made and are not a mass manufactured item. Shipping The cost of the frame includes shipping USPS Priority within the US For Other countries please contact me for pricing.

Skip the Binding for a Super Fast Finish! Quilt blocks and mini quilts look wonderful in frames and are beautiful on a wall. Cluster several together for a lovely display of your quilting skills. Framing is a great way to get a quilt on display quickly, and to show off orphan blocks that may never …

Fun story about me...I am really great at starting block challenges from various fabric designers...not so great at finishing them! I get so excited about the beautiful quilt blocks that I'm creating and just want to do something with them now! In my last tutorial about repurposing unused quilt blocks, we talked about attaching them to the back of jackets or sweatshirts. Today, we're brightening up my sewing room!Supplies: P.S.: If you click and purchase, I may receive a small commission at no e

Quilting has a rich history in the United States. In fact, one might argue that in many ways quilting is unique to the United States. Whatever the case may be, there is a fond appreciation for the beautiful works done by quilters. Our family has a beautiful quilt that hangs in the family room which is a one-of-a-kind representation of so much family history and values. Quilts have a special way of strumming our heart strings and soothing our soul. Believe it or not, the tools necessary for maki

Reposted with updated photos. I have read so many blogs by quilters who are still crawling on the floor to layer and baste or pin their quilts. It is time to rise up off the floor and get yourself a quilt frame! I watched Footloose the other night Whether you find one at an estate sale or go to the lumber yard and buy boards to make one, a serious quilter needs a quilt frame. I have 2 quilting frames, this one was my Gramma's, the boards are 3/4 inch x 4 inches wide and are 86 and 101 inches long. It will frame up to a full size quilt. It has holes drilled every 4 inches, pieced strips of denim are nailed to each board for pinning the backing. The holes are for dropping large nails through to square the frame. Then she used C clamps to keep it tight. Gramma used the frame to hand quilt. She would sit on one side and quilt as far as she could reach then remove pins and 2 nails and roll the quilt onto the board and then drop the nails through the holes again and clamp with C clamps to keep the frame in place and the quilt taught on the frame. She had short stanchions with holes for the corner nails so the quilt was at a comfortable height for quilting. The other quilt frame that I have belonged to the Grandmother of one of my dearest friends and if she ever starts quilting I will return it to her. It is made of 1 inch x 2 inch boards that are 96 inches and 120 inches long. I set it on my dining chairs, a good height for pinning, its a little higher than kitchen counter tops. I put the nails in the holes then measure across and lengthwise at the corners and diagonally to be sure it is square. Then I pin or staple the backing to the frame. Stapling is quicker to put on the frame but pinning in much quicker to take off and there is no scarring the fabric with pins. Lay the batting on and smooth it out. Lay quilt top on and smooth it out I pin with straight pins if I plan to machine quilt it. I baste if I am going to hand quilt with my lap frame. Buy boards that are knot free you don't want it oozing sap on your quilt. And don't let the guy at the lumber yard sell you warped or crooked boards that contractors have rejected. Straight boards are a must. Clamp or tape the boards together in pairs so you are drilling holes through both boards. Measure and mark every 4 inches. Then take your hubby's cordless drill and drill holes big enough to accommodate the 4 great big nails you bought with the boards. Mine are mismatched 3 1/2 and 4 inch nails. If you are a pinner sew long strips of denim and fold in half then tack or staple to boards. If you prefer to staple quilts to the frame skip that step. Use a light weight staple gun with 1/4 inch staples you want them to come out easily. I tilt the staple gun slightly so the staple does not go in all the way and leaves a space to pry it out with a flat edge screw driver. Save your knees! Save your back! Get a quilt frame! Sweet talk your hubby into one for Valentines Day or get him a cordless drill. Happy Quilting, Ann