One more from InForm Design, a townhouse, one of three in a row. Contemporary Australian design done well. I think my favourite bit is the hallway/staircase. I love the sense of transition, the attent
One more from InForm Design, a townhouse, one of three in a row. Contemporary Australian design done well. I think my favourite bit is the hallway/staircase. I love the sense of transition, the attent
What better way to get inspiration for your small space then looking at other small spaces done well? Here are 15 NYC apartments from our house tours that are small on space, but big on style. TOP ROW 1. Oliver & Sherrie’s Mini Bronx Loft, 525 square feet 2. Evan’s Modern & Cozy Manhattan Studio, 295 square feet 3. James’ Beautifully Handcrafted Apartment in Clinton Hill, 540 square feet 4. Joey and Antoni’s Brooklyn Charmer, 600 square feet 5.
One more from InForm Design, a townhouse, one of three in a row. Contemporary Australian design done well. I think my favourite bit is the hallway/staircase. I love the sense of transition, the attent
One more from InForm Design, a townhouse, one of three in a row. Contemporary Australian design done well. I think my favourite bit is the hallway/staircase. I love the sense of transition, the attent
One more from InForm Design, a townhouse, one of three in a row. Contemporary Australian design done well. I think my favourite bit is the hallway/staircase. I love the sense of transition, the attent
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Baseball quilt - posted in Quilt Pictures, Patterns & Inspiration...: Just finished making a baseball quilt for my daughter. She is hosting a ball reunion this fall so I made a baseball quilt to raffle off to off set some costs. This was a fun project that I did mostly on the long arm sashed a plain fabric and marked the stitching line with a frixion pen then put on my Maxine my Millie and applied the chenille strips now for the secret to fluffing it up.......Take your shop vac and vac...
One more from InForm Design, a townhouse, one of three in a row. Contemporary Australian design done well. I think my favourite bit is the hallway/staircase. I love the sense of transition, the attent
Great collection of green houses (exteriors). Get loads of ideas for your green paint job. All shades of green from dark to bright to pastel to light to mint green. Ultimate green house exterior gallery.
From an Art Deco bakery sitting on the banks of the Ohio River to a service station turned coffeehouse in Mississippi, these locales are the poster children for adaptive reuse done well
My summer driveway garden has only one flowering plant-a white sunpatiens with a variegated leaf. Lots of them. I am astonished at how well this plant has performed, given less than ideal sun, chilly temperatures, and relentless rain. The plants have grown at an astonishing rate, and shrug off troublesome weather. The Japanese beetles did
Terraced houses could the solution to housing affordability in Sydney, and Luigi Rosselli has produced a spectacular example
Get the look of this blush pink, full color bedroom complete with fine wool curtains and rose-colored linens as well as custom furniture and flooring.
Blogged here, with many New Orleans tips as well! To answer some questions I had about exactly how I converted this from flat to in-the-round : I reduced 4 sts in the cast-on total to “remove” the seams. I left 2 sts “blank” on each side to hide the jog, and re-started the centered pattern on front and back so it was symmetrical (meaning I didn’t just keep going with the pattern after one side, but stopped at the side seam and re-started). When I got to the small part that gets decreased like a raglan before joining the yoke, I knit back and forth. This was 10-12 rows, if I remember. Then I simply connected the fronts, backs and sleeves like a regular yoke and moved the round start to the center back (as per the pattern, because the yoke is actually in the round in the original pattern). My blog post gives a tutorial on the technique I chose to avoid jogging the 1-row stripes, which are a challenge. December 25, 2013 : This ended up being the perfect Christmas sweater, unbeknownst to me. Look at those poinsettias in that one band! All photos are in New Orleans: The Garden District, The Warehouse District and Lafayette Cemetery #1. December 15, 2013 :So this weekend was crazy! I was desperate to finish my Anatolia (including wet blocking, takes ~48 hours!) in time for my trip to New Orleans on December 17. Luckily my husband left on Friday, giving me 48 hours of non-stop sleeve knitting and end weaving. I never left the house and only ate instant or very FAST food! What a marathon! Because it’s circular, I soaked it in the tub with Eucalan. I freaked OUT when I saw that the water was a light red purple color when I squeezed… it’s impossible to tell if anything has changed right now. I’m hoping the camel color survived. :o 3Nov2013 : The body is done! I picked up my provisional cast-on and knit downwards, mirroring the yoke motifs in the opposite direction. In all, I added 3 color bands to the length. I also replaced the light colored Camel with the red Rage I used for the collar. I’ll be doing the same with the sleeves. I guess that means that I need to find something to make with all the extra Camel color I bought! I had to frog the ribbing once as I thought that just using the same needle size (US 3) would be ok, but it was too wide and floppy. I went down to US 1 and it was much better (no change in stitch number). I knit one row in stockinette and then 15 rows in 1x1 rib. I used a regular bind-off (not stretchy). Honestly, the fit is odd. There is a lot of extra material below the yoke and in the waist, and because each motif uses a different amount of colors, the tension is different in each band. Blocking will help, but for sure, not completely. 20Oct2013 : Once I connected everything to the yoke, things sped up enormously. For the neckline, I did NOT switch to smaller needles and did NOT do the last increase row. After the first row in red I began a 1x1 rib for 6 rows, then bound off using a mildly stretchy method (k2, *insert left needle into front of 2 sts, k2tog, k1*). I think I will have to add a ribbon for softness at the neckline, this yarn is itchy. Also, it is quite tight at the upper arms. I might have to add some cotton fabric to help with perspiration, sigh! Now for some major lengthening of the arms and body… more 4-color fair-isle, here I come! 21Sept2013 : For the sleeves before yoke attachment: provisional cast-on and addition of the ‘ribbon motif’ as in the body. Used 32-34 numbers to start and increased steadily to 36-38 by the yoke. The sleeve doesn’t even reach past my elbow! That would be too much ribbing. I will certainly have to lengthen with more fair-isle motifs. I’m stalling on the project. I never do magic loop/2 circs with stranded sleeves, the yarn carrying over the joins is so messy. So, I use 12” circulars, which are fine except when you start going back and forth for the raglan decreases (no longer in the round). Ouch, really painful with 3 color stranding. 14July2013 : My first love from the new Rowan Magazine 54. Note 1 : This is not for the faint of heart. It strands using 3 colors most of the time, and 4 colors some of the time!! I am contemplating whether to intarsia the 4th color, as 3 colors makes an extremely thick fabric, already. Note 2 : The colors are off in the magazine picture. What looks like red, is actually a rusty orange. The pink looks like raspberry Peony, but it is actually a lilac purple, Damask. I didn’t want pink or purple, so I changed the Damask to Rage, a bright red. This makes it relatively closer to the rusty orange Ginger, but I like the subtle difference more than having a purple option. I wanted to knit this in the round. I began with a provisional cast-on above the ribbing, because I wasn’t really sure if I wanted that long of ribbing, or if I wanted to add more stranding. I added the green ‘ribbon’ motif seen at the top of the sweater before the actual start of the sweater. To do this, I ‘subtracted’ 8 rows from the waist shaping and cast-on 250 stitches, going down to 246 on the 2nd row. 6 more rows and I was to the actual ‘start’ as in the pattern. To prevent jogging at the start of the round, and any mish mashing of motifs because of waist shaping, I knit the two stitches flanking the side seam in the main color of the current motif. This really diluted the effect of knitting in the round nicely. There’s a pic of that! CHART ERRATA: Row 56 - There should be a solid Watery stitch at the bottom of each diamond, not an empty Camel stitch. Row 59 - There should be a triangle Cinnamon stitch at the bottom of the small diamond motif, not a empty Camel stitch. intswemodo2013#12 I DID IT FOR THE FIRST TIME!!
This was one of our other projects we've been working on. Just finished (mostly). We still have to add the panel, latch, and lock to the gate and we'll be done.…
*This post may have affiliate links, which means I may receive commissions if you choose to purchase through links I provide (at no extra cost to you). Learning how to cool down a room with no AC is crucial during the summer months. And who am I to teach you? Well, I lived in Paris during the 2019 summer heat wave—in a 7th-floor walk-up apartment with no AC. It got up to 108 degrees one day! I’ve also lived in California where there was no AC in most people’s homes. And, I spent a summer in Boulder, Colorado, with no AC—and it was often 90+ degrees outside. Here are 16 tips and tricks for how to cool down a room with no AC—based on my real-life experience! 1. Turn on the bathroom vent fan. The […]
Our favourite Tobacco linen, Corinium, Made in Cirencester tailored jacket. Made from the most delightfully warm Tobacco coloured Irish linen. 11oz in weight and our favourite coloured linen. Made by our in house Tailor Sian, in our workrooms above our Market Place, Cirencester Showroom. Sian studied tailoring at the London School of Fashion before moving to Savile Row and working at Dege and Skinner for 3 years. She then returned to The Cotswolds and we are deligted to have her on board! Each jacket is unstructured and unlined with 2 side patch pockets on the outside as well as a breast pocket and an internal patch pocket in the lower left. Each button hole is done by hand.
Blogged here, with many New Orleans tips as well! To answer some questions I had about exactly how I converted this from flat to in-the-round : I reduced 4 sts in the cast-on total to “remove” the seams. I left 2 sts “blank” on each side to hide the jog, and re-started the centered pattern on front and back so it was symmetrical (meaning I didn’t just keep going with the pattern after one side, but stopped at the side seam and re-started). When I got to the small part that gets decreased like a raglan before joining the yoke, I knit back and forth. This was 10-12 rows, if I remember. Then I simply connected the fronts, backs and sleeves like a regular yoke and moved the round start to the center back (as per the pattern, because the yoke is actually in the round in the original pattern). My blog post gives a tutorial on the technique I chose to avoid jogging the 1-row stripes, which are a challenge. December 25, 2013 : This ended up being the perfect Christmas sweater, unbeknownst to me. Look at those poinsettias in that one band! All photos are in New Orleans: The Garden District, The Warehouse District and Lafayette Cemetery #1. December 15, 2013 :So this weekend was crazy! I was desperate to finish my Anatolia (including wet blocking, takes ~48 hours!) in time for my trip to New Orleans on December 17. Luckily my husband left on Friday, giving me 48 hours of non-stop sleeve knitting and end weaving. I never left the house and only ate instant or very FAST food! What a marathon! Because it’s circular, I soaked it in the tub with Eucalan. I freaked OUT when I saw that the water was a light red purple color when I squeezed… it’s impossible to tell if anything has changed right now. I’m hoping the camel color survived. :o 3Nov2013 : The body is done! I picked up my provisional cast-on and knit downwards, mirroring the yoke motifs in the opposite direction. In all, I added 3 color bands to the length. I also replaced the light colored Camel with the red Rage I used for the collar. I’ll be doing the same with the sleeves. I guess that means that I need to find something to make with all the extra Camel color I bought! I had to frog the ribbing once as I thought that just using the same needle size (US 3) would be ok, but it was too wide and floppy. I went down to US 1 and it was much better (no change in stitch number). I knit one row in stockinette and then 15 rows in 1x1 rib. I used a regular bind-off (not stretchy). Honestly, the fit is odd. There is a lot of extra material below the yoke and in the waist, and because each motif uses a different amount of colors, the tension is different in each band. Blocking will help, but for sure, not completely. 20Oct2013 : Once I connected everything to the yoke, things sped up enormously. For the neckline, I did NOT switch to smaller needles and did NOT do the last increase row. After the first row in red I began a 1x1 rib for 6 rows, then bound off using a mildly stretchy method (k2, *insert left needle into front of 2 sts, k2tog, k1*). I think I will have to add a ribbon for softness at the neckline, this yarn is itchy. Also, it is quite tight at the upper arms. I might have to add some cotton fabric to help with perspiration, sigh! Now for some major lengthening of the arms and body… more 4-color fair-isle, here I come! 21Sept2013 : For the sleeves before yoke attachment: provisional cast-on and addition of the ‘ribbon motif’ as in the body. Used 32-34 numbers to start and increased steadily to 36-38 by the yoke. The sleeve doesn’t even reach past my elbow! That would be too much ribbing. I will certainly have to lengthen with more fair-isle motifs. I’m stalling on the project. I never do magic loop/2 circs with stranded sleeves, the yarn carrying over the joins is so messy. So, I use 12” circulars, which are fine except when you start going back and forth for the raglan decreases (no longer in the round). Ouch, really painful with 3 color stranding. 14July2013 : My first love from the new Rowan Magazine 54. Note 1 : This is not for the faint of heart. It strands using 3 colors most of the time, and 4 colors some of the time!! I am contemplating whether to intarsia the 4th color, as 3 colors makes an extremely thick fabric, already. Note 2 : The colors are off in the magazine picture. What looks like red, is actually a rusty orange. The pink looks like raspberry Peony, but it is actually a lilac purple, Damask. I didn’t want pink or purple, so I changed the Damask to Rage, a bright red. This makes it relatively closer to the rusty orange Ginger, but I like the subtle difference more than having a purple option. I wanted to knit this in the round. I began with a provisional cast-on above the ribbing, because I wasn’t really sure if I wanted that long of ribbing, or if I wanted to add more stranding. I added the green ‘ribbon’ motif seen at the top of the sweater before the actual start of the sweater. To do this, I ‘subtracted’ 8 rows from the waist shaping and cast-on 250 stitches, going down to 246 on the 2nd row. 6 more rows and I was to the actual ‘start’ as in the pattern. To prevent jogging at the start of the round, and any mish mashing of motifs because of waist shaping, I knit the two stitches flanking the side seam in the main color of the current motif. This really diluted the effect of knitting in the round nicely. There’s a pic of that! CHART ERRATA: Row 56 - There should be a solid Watery stitch at the bottom of each diamond, not an empty Camel stitch. Row 59 - There should be a triangle Cinnamon stitch at the bottom of the small diamond motif, not a empty Camel stitch. intswemodo2013#12 I DID IT FOR THE FIRST TIME!!
THING 1: Here’s some high-level Blog Trivia for you: what do the following three pictures have in common? They’re all…
A classic exterior. A contemporary interior. Each of the two units boasts an open floor plan yet also designed for sufficient privacy. The kithen opens up to the breakfast room with a row of seats at the eating bar. The great room includes a fireplace as well as views to the rear patio. With bedroom 2 and bedroom 3 located upstairs from the main floor master suite, this duplex plan offers relaxation for everyone and privacy for a family with older children. Mom and dad can relax in the secluded master bedroom while their children enjoy their bedrooms located on the second level. Square footage same for both units -- 2038 living square feet -- for total living square footage for both units of 4076. Each plan set includes the following: floorplan 4 side exterior elevations, electrical plan, birds-eye view of the roof, foundation plan, and some miscellaneous details. Please Note We do not offer plumbing, HVAC, or window scheduling. This will have to be done on a local level, probably by your building team! These items are NOT included: Architectural or Engineering Stamp - handled locally if required. Site Plan - handled locally when required. Mechanical Drawings (location of heating and air equipment and ductwork) - your subcontractors handle this. Plumbing Drawings (drawings showing the actual plumbing pipe sizes and locations) - your subcontractors handle this. Energy calculations - handled locally when required.
For many years I sewed my quilt binding onto the front of my quilts by machine, then sewed the back edge down by hand. I enjoyed the whole ritual and used to look forward to spending a whole evening with a quilt on my lap, slowly stitching the binding on whilst watching Netflix. A quilt is supposed to be a labour of love after all. As my design work got busier, my commitments and deadlines started piling up. I was working on a quilt one day for a paid partnership and I realised I didn't have enough time to sew the back by hand. So I had a go at machine stitching it instead. It was far from perfect, but I had it done in half an hour and met my deadline! I'm sharing my method with you today, as I've had a lot of questions on Instagram after sharing a binding photo recently. This method is not only a massive time saver but also produces more durable quilts that can withstand many, many washes and you don't need to worry about the binding unravelling and needing repairs. MACHINE BINDING STEPS Watch the video here! 1. Cut your binding strips 2 1/4" wide, cross grain. 2 1/4" is my preferred width of strip as it produces a neater finish on the back, without a big 'flap'. I've always cut my binding strips cross grain rather than bias for standard rectangular quilts, in fact often I cut the strips straight from the bolt. I find bias strips overly stretchy for my binding method. If you aren't familiar with these terms this is a helpful article. 2. Join the binding strips with diagonal seams, as shown. Trim excess fabric 1/4” away from the seam, press open .Press the entire binding in half lengthwise, wrong sides facing. 3. Starting half way down one side of the quilt, place the binding strip on the right side of the quilt, raw edge to raw edge. Leave a 6" tail of binding at the beginning, then sew the rest onto the quilt, with a 1/4” seam, mitreing the corners. Leave a 6" tail at the end of the binding also. Join the two tails of the binding with a diagonal seam (as above), press with iron down onto the quilt, and finish stitching it down with a 1/4" seam. (Note: Up to this point this is pretty much the universal method for binding a quilt and there are many video and picture tutorials on the Internet if you are a beginner. I wanted to include these steps in this tutorial for completeness. My machine binding method and my video below focuses on the rest of the binding process.) 4. You will need three quilting clips for the next step. I use Clover Wonder Clips but there are other brands out there, and I heard of people using bulldog clips for this also. Place the quilt on a flat surface, right side up, and fold over the binding to the back, as tight as you can so there is no 'gap' between the edge of the quilt and the binding. Clip. Repeat ~5 inches below, folding over and clipping again, and then one more time 5 inches below the last clip. This is the most important part of the process and takes a bit of practice till you get used to it - if you don't fold back the binding sufficiently your stitches will not catch the binding on the back and you will end up with unsewn gaps. 5. Place the quilt on the machine with the foot right below the first clip. I just use a regular sewing foot but you can use a walking foot also if you prefer or if you use high loft batting. Sew in the ditch with a 3 mm stitch length as close to the binding as you can get, without sewing over it. 6. Keep stitching down the length of the binding, go as slowly as you need to, making sure your stitch line remains right up against the binding edge. Slide the clips down as you go. Periodically stop to repeat step 4, folding over the edge of the binding to the back and clipping. 7. When you get to a corner, first fold over and clip the binding on the lower edge, then mitre the corner. You will notice in the video below that I first mitred the corner in one direction, it didn't sit quite right so I mitred it the other way and the corner looked sharper. There is no 'right' direction of mitreing so do what works and looks best. Put a clip on the corner to hold the mitred fold in place. Keep sewing all the way to the corner, right into it (and in fact you may even want to go a small stitch in onto the binding then back one stitch, if you want to absolutely make sure the corner is secure). Stop with needle down, turn the quilt 90 degrees and keep going as before. You should end up with a binding that's neat and even on the back. It does take some practice, so don't be discouraged if your first effort doesn't look as even. VIDEO TUTORIAL The video below shows the whole process from step 4 onwards. TROUBLESHOOTING - If you end up with unsewn gaps on the back, just unpick the stitch line up to an inch before the gap, fold the binding over tightly, clip, and repeat the process. If the gap is very small e.g. less than 1/4" you can just put a stitch or two in there by hand. - If you are using a very high loft batting, or really struggling to catch the edge of the binding on the back, with lots of unsewn gaps, try cutting your strips 2.5" wide instead. That should give you a bit more room for error as there will be more fabric on the back for your stitch line to catch. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- For those of you who asked on Instagram - this is the mini quilt I was binding! It's an old project from my WIP drawer that I dug up for this tutorial. It's a free block designed by Lori Holt - you can download the pattern here. The fabrics are a mix of prints from my stash, most of them over 5 years old.
Well, that was an exciting week, wasn't it? We had a big spring snow storm and virtually no work got done by anyone all week, except by the snow plow drivers and the guys with chain saws who spent quite a bit of time cutting up the massive tree that fell down across my neighbor's driveway. We lost a few branches, but nothing that required a chain saw, thank goodness. We all know that a snow day is a free day, right? So instead of working on real things that I need to get done for my real life, I used the whole day to finish a baby quilt for my friend's first grandson. His parents chose mountains, along with navy, gray, and aqua for him, which was quite the challenge. I'm afraid there is no aqua in this quilt, but I think I got the style and tone right. Here's how it finally worked out: How better to photograph a mountains quilt than against the snow? Of course the day after the storm it was bright and perfect outside when I wanted to take pictures, so I had to wait until later in the evening to get photos that weren't totally bleached out.All that snow was pretty blinding! Except for the center panel with the mountains, this is nothing like I started with. It was lovely to have time to work on it and try things, rip them out, and try something else until I felt like I got it right. I ended up deciding that piecing of any kind would distract from the mountains, so I just used graduated strips of color, with grays on the bottom and blues on top. This quilt turned out to be just about 40 by 48, almost exactly where I wanted it to be. I think that will be a nice size for a tiny boy and still be good when he's a little bigger. I quilted it with organic lines that were not straight but not curved, either. These are easy enough in theory, but it's hard to get them to look consistently graceful. It was a nice couple of hours while I listened to the plows and the wind. For the backing I used a pretty blue called Prism by P and B Textiles. It made a nice complement to the colors on the front. The binding is Kona Celestial. I was going to use navy but it looked pretty harsh. This one is just a little bit softer which made it perfect for this project. And because I like things all blendy, I used a perfectly matching blue thread in the bobbin and 8 different colors of thread in the top. To match the different colors, you know? When you give a baby quilt, do you wash it first? I washed this one, then I ironed it so that it will look "new" when little Otto's parents take it out of the box. Is that weird? Whether it is or not, this little quilt is on its way to its new owner, who is still pretty new himself. I'm so happy to have this done, and so happy for my friend, because being a grandma is pretty much the best thing ever. I know this little guy will bring them all so much happiness. Hope everyone has a great weekend. Our snow is pretty well melted (since it was 50 degrees today) and I have some fun plans for the weekend. It's my daughter's birthday, so we'll get to see her, and I'm hopeful that there will be some celebrating. I can't have cake any more (gluten, bah!) but you know what *is* gluten free? Most wine. True fact! I'll test some for you just to be sure! Sharing at Confessions of a Fabric Addict, Finished or Not Friday, and crazymomquilts.
The Story The Deets The Schuylkill River isn't the cleanest, but it gets the job done and has a lot of character - just like the legendary mermaid that swims up and down its current and who is routinely spotted near Boat House Row. She may not win any prizes for her outward appearance, but she sure does have a great personality. This sticker pays tribute to the Schuylkill's resident mermaid who proves there's more to being magical than just looks. Designed by real Philadelphians after a few rounds of Yuengling to inspire creativity Stickers are printed on durable, high opacity (no judgement if you gotta look that word up) adhesive vinyl which makes them perfect for slapping on your kid's trapper keeper, the back of your shaggin' wagon, or attempting to cover up that "Wentzylvania" tattoo that clearly did not age well Fast and easy bubble-free application Do not attempt to eat, snort, or use as suppository
Blogged here, with many New Orleans tips as well! To answer some questions I had about exactly how I converted this from flat to in-the-round : I reduced 4 sts in the cast-on total to “remove” the seams. I left 2 sts “blank” on each side to hide the jog, and re-started the centered pattern on front and back so it was symmetrical (meaning I didn’t just keep going with the pattern after one side, but stopped at the side seam and re-started). When I got to the small part that gets decreased like a raglan before joining the yoke, I knit back and forth. This was 10-12 rows, if I remember. Then I simply connected the fronts, backs and sleeves like a regular yoke and moved the round start to the center back (as per the pattern, because the yoke is actually in the round in the original pattern). My blog post gives a tutorial on the technique I chose to avoid jogging the 1-row stripes, which are a challenge. December 25, 2013 : This ended up being the perfect Christmas sweater, unbeknownst to me. Look at those poinsettias in that one band! All photos are in New Orleans: The Garden District, The Warehouse District and Lafayette Cemetery #1. December 15, 2013 :So this weekend was crazy! I was desperate to finish my Anatolia (including wet blocking, takes ~48 hours!) in time for my trip to New Orleans on December 17. Luckily my husband left on Friday, giving me 48 hours of non-stop sleeve knitting and end weaving. I never left the house and only ate instant or very FAST food! What a marathon! Because it’s circular, I soaked it in the tub with Eucalan. I freaked OUT when I saw that the water was a light red purple color when I squeezed… it’s impossible to tell if anything has changed right now. I’m hoping the camel color survived. :o 3Nov2013 : The body is done! I picked up my provisional cast-on and knit downwards, mirroring the yoke motifs in the opposite direction. In all, I added 3 color bands to the length. I also replaced the light colored Camel with the red Rage I used for the collar. I’ll be doing the same with the sleeves. I guess that means that I need to find something to make with all the extra Camel color I bought! I had to frog the ribbing once as I thought that just using the same needle size (US 3) would be ok, but it was too wide and floppy. I went down to US 1 and it was much better (no change in stitch number). I knit one row in stockinette and then 15 rows in 1x1 rib. I used a regular bind-off (not stretchy). Honestly, the fit is odd. There is a lot of extra material below the yoke and in the waist, and because each motif uses a different amount of colors, the tension is different in each band. Blocking will help, but for sure, not completely. 20Oct2013 : Once I connected everything to the yoke, things sped up enormously. For the neckline, I did NOT switch to smaller needles and did NOT do the last increase row. After the first row in red I began a 1x1 rib for 6 rows, then bound off using a mildly stretchy method (k2, *insert left needle into front of 2 sts, k2tog, k1*). I think I will have to add a ribbon for softness at the neckline, this yarn is itchy. Also, it is quite tight at the upper arms. I might have to add some cotton fabric to help with perspiration, sigh! Now for some major lengthening of the arms and body… more 4-color fair-isle, here I come! 21Sept2013 : For the sleeves before yoke attachment: provisional cast-on and addition of the ‘ribbon motif’ as in the body. Used 32-34 numbers to start and increased steadily to 36-38 by the yoke. The sleeve doesn’t even reach past my elbow! That would be too much ribbing. I will certainly have to lengthen with more fair-isle motifs. I’m stalling on the project. I never do magic loop/2 circs with stranded sleeves, the yarn carrying over the joins is so messy. So, I use 12” circulars, which are fine except when you start going back and forth for the raglan decreases (no longer in the round). Ouch, really painful with 3 color stranding. 14July2013 : My first love from the new Rowan Magazine 54. Note 1 : This is not for the faint of heart. It strands using 3 colors most of the time, and 4 colors some of the time!! I am contemplating whether to intarsia the 4th color, as 3 colors makes an extremely thick fabric, already. Note 2 : The colors are off in the magazine picture. What looks like red, is actually a rusty orange. The pink looks like raspberry Peony, but it is actually a lilac purple, Damask. I didn’t want pink or purple, so I changed the Damask to Rage, a bright red. This makes it relatively closer to the rusty orange Ginger, but I like the subtle difference more than having a purple option. I wanted to knit this in the round. I began with a provisional cast-on above the ribbing, because I wasn’t really sure if I wanted that long of ribbing, or if I wanted to add more stranding. I added the green ‘ribbon’ motif seen at the top of the sweater before the actual start of the sweater. To do this, I ‘subtracted’ 8 rows from the waist shaping and cast-on 250 stitches, going down to 246 on the 2nd row. 6 more rows and I was to the actual ‘start’ as in the pattern. To prevent jogging at the start of the round, and any mish mashing of motifs because of waist shaping, I knit the two stitches flanking the side seam in the main color of the current motif. This really diluted the effect of knitting in the round nicely. There’s a pic of that! CHART ERRATA: Row 56 - There should be a solid Watery stitch at the bottom of each diamond, not an empty Camel stitch. Row 59 - There should be a triangle Cinnamon stitch at the bottom of the small diamond motif, not a empty Camel stitch. intswemodo2013#12 I DID IT FOR THE FIRST TIME!!
“Iona” is a one off 21ft clinker cabin cruiser built in 1970 Well it is all done and she is now afloat well at least when the tide is in. She is finished
Blogged here, with many New Orleans tips as well! To answer some questions I had about exactly how I converted this from flat to in-the-round : I reduced 4 sts in the cast-on total to “remove” the seams. I left 2 sts “blank” on each side to hide the jog, and re-started the centered pattern on front and back so it was symmetrical (meaning I didn’t just keep going with the pattern after one side, but stopped at the side seam and re-started). When I got to the small part that gets decreased like a raglan before joining the yoke, I knit back and forth. This was 10-12 rows, if I remember. Then I simply connected the fronts, backs and sleeves like a regular yoke and moved the round start to the center back (as per the pattern, because the yoke is actually in the round in the original pattern). My blog post gives a tutorial on the technique I chose to avoid jogging the 1-row stripes, which are a challenge. December 25, 2013 : This ended up being the perfect Christmas sweater, unbeknownst to me. Look at those poinsettias in that one band! All photos are in New Orleans: The Garden District, The Warehouse District and Lafayette Cemetery #1. December 15, 2013 :So this weekend was crazy! I was desperate to finish my Anatolia (including wet blocking, takes ~48 hours!) in time for my trip to New Orleans on December 17. Luckily my husband left on Friday, giving me 48 hours of non-stop sleeve knitting and end weaving. I never left the house and only ate instant or very FAST food! What a marathon! Because it’s circular, I soaked it in the tub with Eucalan. I freaked OUT when I saw that the water was a light red purple color when I squeezed… it’s impossible to tell if anything has changed right now. I’m hoping the camel color survived. :o 3Nov2013 : The body is done! I picked up my provisional cast-on and knit downwards, mirroring the yoke motifs in the opposite direction. In all, I added 3 color bands to the length. I also replaced the light colored Camel with the red Rage I used for the collar. I’ll be doing the same with the sleeves. I guess that means that I need to find something to make with all the extra Camel color I bought! I had to frog the ribbing once as I thought that just using the same needle size (US 3) would be ok, but it was too wide and floppy. I went down to US 1 and it was much better (no change in stitch number). I knit one row in stockinette and then 15 rows in 1x1 rib. I used a regular bind-off (not stretchy). Honestly, the fit is odd. There is a lot of extra material below the yoke and in the waist, and because each motif uses a different amount of colors, the tension is different in each band. Blocking will help, but for sure, not completely. 20Oct2013 : Once I connected everything to the yoke, things sped up enormously. For the neckline, I did NOT switch to smaller needles and did NOT do the last increase row. After the first row in red I began a 1x1 rib for 6 rows, then bound off using a mildly stretchy method (k2, *insert left needle into front of 2 sts, k2tog, k1*). I think I will have to add a ribbon for softness at the neckline, this yarn is itchy. Also, it is quite tight at the upper arms. I might have to add some cotton fabric to help with perspiration, sigh! Now for some major lengthening of the arms and body… more 4-color fair-isle, here I come! 21Sept2013 : For the sleeves before yoke attachment: provisional cast-on and addition of the ‘ribbon motif’ as in the body. Used 32-34 numbers to start and increased steadily to 36-38 by the yoke. The sleeve doesn’t even reach past my elbow! That would be too much ribbing. I will certainly have to lengthen with more fair-isle motifs. I’m stalling on the project. I never do magic loop/2 circs with stranded sleeves, the yarn carrying over the joins is so messy. So, I use 12” circulars, which are fine except when you start going back and forth for the raglan decreases (no longer in the round). Ouch, really painful with 3 color stranding. 14July2013 : My first love from the new Rowan Magazine 54. Note 1 : This is not for the faint of heart. It strands using 3 colors most of the time, and 4 colors some of the time!! I am contemplating whether to intarsia the 4th color, as 3 colors makes an extremely thick fabric, already. Note 2 : The colors are off in the magazine picture. What looks like red, is actually a rusty orange. The pink looks like raspberry Peony, but it is actually a lilac purple, Damask. I didn’t want pink or purple, so I changed the Damask to Rage, a bright red. This makes it relatively closer to the rusty orange Ginger, but I like the subtle difference more than having a purple option. I wanted to knit this in the round. I began with a provisional cast-on above the ribbing, because I wasn’t really sure if I wanted that long of ribbing, or if I wanted to add more stranding. I added the green ‘ribbon’ motif seen at the top of the sweater before the actual start of the sweater. To do this, I ‘subtracted’ 8 rows from the waist shaping and cast-on 250 stitches, going down to 246 on the 2nd row. 6 more rows and I was to the actual ‘start’ as in the pattern. To prevent jogging at the start of the round, and any mish mashing of motifs because of waist shaping, I knit the two stitches flanking the side seam in the main color of the current motif. This really diluted the effect of knitting in the round nicely. There’s a pic of that! CHART ERRATA: Row 56 - There should be a solid Watery stitch at the bottom of each diamond, not an empty Camel stitch. Row 59 - There should be a triangle Cinnamon stitch at the bottom of the small diamond motif, not a empty Camel stitch. intswemodo2013#12 I DID IT FOR THE FIRST TIME!!
Proud of you son, daughter cute, sweet, congratulations, exam results, well done, graduation, GCSE, A-Levels card from mum, dad, parents Mark the brilliance of your son or daughter and share your pride in their exam results with this congratulations card. - Choose between son or daughter - 133 x 184 mm - Comes with yellow envelope in cello wrap To bring you these awesome cards, we work with a great company called Buddy Fernandez, a fellow small business based in Leighton Buzzard in the UK. Buddy Fernandez used to work in advertising. Then one day he didn't. He wandered, lingered, drank scotch in a row boat. Soon enough though, he was writing funny little greeting cards that finally said it like it was - from the back of a Vauxhall Viva Magnum permanently parked in a Kwik Save car park in Rhyl. And he still does (although the Kwik Save is now a Lidl).
Our favourite Tobacco linen, Corinium, Made in Cirencester tailored jacket. Made from the most delightfully warm Tobacco coloured Irish linen. 11oz in weight and our favourite coloured linen. Made by our in house Tailor Sian, in our workrooms above our Market Place, Cirencester Showroom. Sian studied tailoring at the London School of Fashion before moving to Savile Row and working at Dege and Skinner for 3 years. She then returned to The Cotswolds and we are deligted to have her on board! Each jacket is unstructured and unlined with 2 side patch pockets on the outside as well as a breast pocket and an internal patch pocket in the lower left. Each button hole is done by hand.
The flowers of our orchid should not last forever, they dry and fall naturally one after another. Now the orchid begins to grow, to produce new leaves and roots, and even to grow in size.
I dag känner jag mig lite trädgårdsledsen. Eller rättare sagt buxbomledsen. Har insett att kanske 10-15 plantor av mina ca 250 nyplanterade buxbom är angripna av den där himlarns sjukan Cylindrocladium buxicola som ska vara värre än almsjukan var. Kolla era buxbom säger jag bara!! Å kolla Hillevis informativa inlägg för att få veta mer. Jag som varit och är sååå glad att jag får buxbom inte bara att överleva, utan att frodas och må gott i min trädgård, som ligger i zon 4. Här ska det alltså egentligen inte gå att ha de vanligaste buxbomen. Men det gör det alltså. Har buxbomhäckar som är 10 år. Men så i dag vaknade jag upp till den bistra verkligheten efter att ha läst Hillevis inlägg. Sprang direkt ut i trädgården för att titta till mina nyplanterade (250.....) buxbom. Å hittar så klart smittan. TROR JAG i alla fall. Alla tecken finns där, som jag kan se. Har lagt en bit i en plastpåse dock för att göra en sista koll. Smittad!? Lider gör jag med de som har betydligt mer buxbom än vad jag har och som har fått in smittan. I år har jag kanske planterat 10-15 klot också. Förutom dom jag hade sedan tidigare. Ja, ja...... Dags att sanera, hålla tummarna, gråta en skvätt och TRO. Att inte alla ska bli smittade. Det är i denna häck runt äppelträdet jag hittat de smittade buxbomen Komma ihåg ska man dock göra att detta är ett i högsta grad världsligt problem. Det kan vara bra att ta på 'perspektiv-glasögonen'... Men inte desto mindre ledsamt för alla som ägnat tid, kraft och resurser på buxbom i sin trädgård. Denna fina, fina växt. Näe..... VILL INTE att alla mina buxbom ska bli smittade * Alternativ till klot Ett alternativ till klot är brudspirea. Förstås inte vintergrön. Men hos mig spelar det då rakt ingen roll då vintern för det mesta innebär massor av snö och vintergröna växter har svårt att göra sig synliga där under snötäcket :-)) Men på hösten och våren är vintergrönt så klart mycket uppskattat. Men någon ersättare till grön liten häck å som går i zon 4, känner jag inte till just nu (om det nu skulle vara kört för buxbom, vilket jag hoppas att det inte är förstås). Tips någon?? Gammal brudspirea som började klippas för ca 10 år sedan *** Nu hoppas jag och tror att vi tillsammans kan mota bort denna eländiga sjukdom så att buxbom kan få fortsätta vara en favoritväxt i mångas trädgårdar. Att vi genom att vara uppmärksamma, snabbt tar bort sjukan om man har den för att minska spridning, gör de insatser som rekommenderas och ja, be en bön kanske... håller smittan i schack och förhoppningsvis utrotar den, eller åtminstone begränsar skadorna. SÅ kära ni, kolla era buxbom!! Håller tummarna att så många som möjligt slipper eländet. Denna danska sida har flera bra bilder på angrepp. Det åskar det hos mig idag. Ungefär så känner jag mig också. Som ett åskmoln. MEN, perspektiv-glasögonen är inte glömda...... Kan vara viktigt att påminna sig om dessa. Kram,
Here is another round of unusual festivals celebrated in October in different parts of the world. Tübingen Duck Race Every year since 19...
This is a special 'Camo' cord version of our 'Made in Cirencester' jacket Made by our in house Tailor Sian, in our workrooms above our Market Place, Cirencester Showroom. Sian studied tailoring at the London School of Fashion before moving to Savile Row and working at Dege and Skinner for 3 years. She then returned to The Cotswolds and we are deligted to have her on board! Each jacket is unstructured and unlined with two side patch pockets on the outside as well as a breast pocket and an internal patch pocket in the lower left. Each button hole is done by hand and this special fabric is a limited edition lightweight camouflage 100% cotton cord. Each bespoke jacket is made for each individual, so please allow around 4 weeks for delivery.
Throwing all modesty out the window: I've knit a lot of beautiful things over the years, but I'm not sure...
