Today I have a tutorial to show you how to take out excess fabric in the back thigh of the Lisbeth Pants. I am using Lisbeth pants as an example, but if you are having similar issues with other pant patterns, this tutorial will help as well. A couple of things before we jump into the details. I wanted to remind you tha
If you want to use a pattern that is too small, or too big, you need to know the way garments differ in proportion from one size to another.
Today is the third installment in the Blackwood Cardigan Sewalong! In case you missed the first few posts, we have covered how to grade between sizes, how to do a quick 'cheater' full bust adjustment,
Have you ever made a garment and found that the neckline sits just a bit too high for comfort? Perhaps the back also dips a bit below where the neckline seam should naturally sit on your body? Forward head posture occurs when your head rests in a forward leaning position, away from the body. This… Continue reading Forward Head/Shoulder Adjustment
Most sewing patterns are made for an "ideal" hourglass shaped woman. And as everyone on planet Earth knows, not all of us are shaped the same way! This is what makes sewing so awesome. You can sew your clothes to fit you and your wonderful shape perfectly.
Is your shoulder line falling off your shoulders? If so, your neckline and shoulders are too wide and you need to do an Across Ch...
Learn how to make a full bust adjustment for princess seams in this instalment of the Elsie Dress Sewalong from Sew Over It
The Great British Sewing Bee- Episode one
Here is a fast and easy way to do a small FBA (Full bust Adjustment) in a sewing pattern. This method works best when the adjustment is less than 8 cm.
If you want to use a pattern that is too small, or too big, you need to know the way garments differ in proportion from one size to another.
Today is the third installment in the Blackwood Cardigan Sewalong! In case you missed the first few posts, we have covered how to grade between sizes, how to do a quick ‘cheater’ full ... Read More
Hey friends! It’s Nellie from sewmessy.blogspot.com. It’s January! And were I live, it’s cold. Like really really cold. And I’ve seen a lot of requests on...
Is your shoulder line falling off your shoulders? If so, your neckline and shoulders are too wide and you need to do an Across Ch...
Visit the post for more.
Today is the third installment in the Blackwood Cardigan Sewalong! In case you missed the first few posts, we have covered how to grade between sizes, how to do a quick ‘cheater’ full ... Read More
Is your shoulder line falling off your shoulders? If so, your neckline and shoulders are too wide and you need to do an Across Ch...
from Pati Palmer's brilliant book Fit For Real People
How to do a full bust adjustment and a small bust adjustment, from patterns with darts to princess seams to patterns with no darts, there's a method here
Is your shoulder line falling off your shoulders? If so, your neckline and shoulders are too wide and you need to do an Across Ch...
Is your shoulder line falling off your shoulders? If so, your neckline and shoulders are too wide and you need to do an Across Ch...
Today on the blog we are talking about how to perform a Full Bust Adjustment on a princess seam bodice like the Karri dress pattern.
how to do a dartless full bust adjustment FBA for sewing patterns using knit fabrics
Learn how to Grading Altering Sewing Pattern Sizes. Modify your patterns to use the sizes that fit your body with this easy tutorial.
Hello lovely sewists! I’m here to show you how to do a full bust adjustment on a woven dolman shirt. There’s nothing to be worried about, it’s really no different from a regular FBA, but we do have to deal with the sleeve since it’s built into the bodice. This tutorial is based on the ... Read More about Dolman Full Bust Adjustment Tutorial
Today is the second post in a 2 part series on doing full bust adjustments on patterns without any darts. For the first post, we covered a quick and dirty ‘pivot ... Read More
Today I’m sharing an adjustment that I have to make pretty often: making the waist bigger on a pattern. My waist is around 40 – 41″, and my hips are 46 – 47″, which me…
Today is the third installment in the Blackwood Cardigan Sewalong! In case you missed the first few posts, we have covered how to grade between sizes, how to do a quick ‘cheater’ full ... Read More
Hello! Today's post is a quickie tute for the full-busted, or those who sew for them :-) What with the proliferation of raglan patterns and their general on-trend stylishness, I wouldn't want anyone's
To grade a pattern to fit different sizes, refer to the illustrations, instructions, and two charts that follow.
Today is the third installment in the Blackwood Cardigan Sewalong! In case you missed the first few posts, we have covered how to grade between sizes, how to do a quick ‘cheater’ full ... Read More
Vogue 1261 , the Alice + Olivia knit tunic I shared with you on my last post , is designed to be fairly close fitting at the bustline. Fo...
Does this ever happen to you? The pattern calls for 5/8″ buttons, but you see some 3/4″ buttons that are just PERFECT with your fabric of your shirt? What do you do? Let’s be honest, sometimes I just slap the 3/4″ buttons on, making the buttonholes longer, and call it the day. No one can […]
Today is the second post in a 2 part series on doing full bust adjustments on patterns without any darts. For the first post, we covered a quick and dirty ‘pivot ... Read More
How to do a full bust adjustment and a small bust adjustment, from patterns with darts to princess seams to patterns with no darts, there's a method here
Today is the fourth installment in the Blackwood Cardigan Sewalong! We are going to wrap up the adjustments portion of the process today with narrow and broad shoulder adjustments. Tomorrow we will ... Read More
Hi there! This is Manda. I am going to take you along on my journey on learning how to do a Full Tummy Adjustment!! Doesn't that...
Today is the third installment in the Blackwood Cardigan Sewalong! In case you missed the first few posts, we have covered how to grade between sizes, how to do a quick 'cheater' full bust adjustment,
Today is the third installment in the Blackwood Cardigan Sewalong! In case you missed the first few posts, we have covered how to grade between sizes, how to do a quick ‘cheater’ full ... Read More
If you want to use a pattern that is too small, or too big, you need to know the way garments differ in proportion from one size to another.
As many of you have been asking for advice on how to adjust our patterns for bustier ladies, we thought we’d kick off this new year with a tutorial on how to do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) and add a bust fitting dart to dartless patterns. If you’ve been following our blog, you might...
Today is the third installment in the Blackwood Cardigan Sewalong! In case you missed the first few posts, we have covered how to grade between sizes, how to do a quick 'cheater' full bust adjustment,
Hello! Today's post is a quickie tute for the full-busted, or those who sew for them :-) What with the proliferation of raglan patterns and their general on-trend stylishness, I wouldn't want anyone's fit worries to cause them to miss out! To note before starting: this is a variation on the no-dart full bust adjustment (FBA) outlined here. We'll skip over that part pretty quickly today in order to get to the raglan-specific bits. Refer back to that post for details if you need to. OK, down to it. Grab your pattern, and we'll start with the front bodice. I'm using the Lane Raglan sweatshirt/tee pattern by Hey June, but of course any raglan-sleeved top will do. Here it is in its original state: Now perform your no-dart FBA, as described in detail in this post. The raglan front shoulder seam is a different shape from the 'standard' armhole, but the principle is exactly the same. Draw your adjustment lines Cut Spread out the pieces by the desired amount Slide some spare paper underneath and stick it all in place Then complete the FBA by re-drawing the front shoulder seam to smooth it out: Stick everything in place and cut out your adjusted front piece: Now, onto the extra step necessitated by the raglan sleeve construction. Because we've just changed the front shoulder seam on the bodice pattern piece (by lengthening it slightly), we also need to adjust the front shoulder seam on the sleeve pattern piece. Otherwise they won't match up properly at the underarm and your attempt at bosom-accommodating will be in vain. We'll do this by determining how much length we need to add to the sleeve seamline, and then adding it :-) So, firstly, measure the length of the shoulder seam on your adjusted front bodice. It will be slightly curved - the easiest way to measure around the curve is to stand your tape measure on its side instead of laying it flat. Like this: Note this measurement as precisely as possible. Now take your sleeve pattern piece and before you do anything else, identify the front shoulder seam. We don't need to make any changes to the back! The front seam is usually marked with one notch and the back with two - but whatever the markings are, just make sure you are working on the correct side! In this picture, my sleeve pattern has the front shoulder seam on the right hand side. Measure and note the length of the front shoulder seam as accurately as possible. Now, subtract this measurement (the length of the front shoulder seam on the sleeve) from the previous measurement you took (the length of the front shoulder seam on the adjusted bodice). The seam on the sleeve pattern piece will be 1-2cm shorter, depending on the size of your FBA. Note down exactly how much shorter it is. This is the amount by which we will lengthen the front sleeve seam. In a couple of steps, I will refer to it as XX cm / YY inches. Before you lengthen, trace the original curve of the front sleeve seam and underarm point onto a spare piece of paper: Now, slide this piece of paper either downwards or outwards slightly, following the curve of the seam in the most 'logical' direction, positioning the new underarm point XX cm / YY inches away from the original underarm point. Like this: As you can see, in this case I extended the seam downwards and out slightly. The curve of raglan sleeve seams varies from one pattern to another: when positioning the new underarm point, just follow the curve in the direction that seems easiest. Sometimes, it might be necessary to re-draw the seam slightly to smooth it out - in this case, a good trick is to trace over the sleeve curve from a larger size of the original pattern. That way, you can change the length of the seam without deviating from the shaping of the original pattern. And all that remains is to connect the new underarm point back to the side/underarm sleeve seam: Finished! Go forth and sew your slightly-more-accommodating raglan tee! What became of mine, you may be wondering? Ahem. Yes. Sometimes, there is such a thing as too much slouch. Sometimes, one can even be unnecessarily zealous about adding room for the boobs. Sometimes, one steams ahead with a fabric that has absolutely no stretch recovery, and ends up with a ridiculously oversized sweater with a humungously gaping back neckline which is only made wrinklier and worse by application of the elastic thread fix. Ah well. You win some, you lose some. I might shorten the sleeves and make it into a grandad-style cardi, but not any time soon. The weather has turned and now I must make ALL THE SUMMER THINGS. Yay! Hope it's helpful my dears :-) Jo
(Also how to rotate bust dart OUT at sideseam) Size Medium traced, then slashed (in red) and spread using the Fit For Real People method for non-darted bodices. After FBA is complete, trace the sideseam onto new tissue below. Close the horizontal bust dart by rotating pattern, while over sideseam tracing on under layer. New adjusted pattern is shown in red. Horizontal bust dart has been moved to the side seam and excess dart uptake is cut off. Final pattern as retraced, with markings, etc. The "bump out" at the bust area sideseam will be eased to the back piece. I also curved up the bottom hem area a bit to compensate for the added length from the FBA.
Is your shoulder line falling off your shoulders? If so, your neckline and shoulders are too wide and you need to do an Across Ch...
Here is a fast and easy way to do a small FBA (Full bust Adjustment) in a sewing pattern. This method works best when the adjustment is less than 8 cm.
Here is a fast and easy way to do a small FBA (Full bust Adjustment) in a sewing pattern. This method works best when the adjustment is less than 8 cm.
The garment fits perfectly – but it’s too big around the bust? We show you how to adjust styles with darts or princess seams like a pro.
Today will be the first post in a 2 part series on doing full bust adjustments on patterns without any darts. For the first post, we will be covering a quick ... Read More
