Dish with a scale motif and scrolls, anonymous, c. 1565 - c. 1585 - Rijksmuseum
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Suzanis, the root of which means “needle” in Persian, were traditionally embroidered by brides-to-be for their dowries. In large part a show of skill and industriousness, it’s said that discerning potential mother-in-laws would look at the quality of the suzani before looking at the girl herself to judge whether she was a suitable match for her son. This traditional black-and-red suzani comes from the storied city of Samarkand, a major stop along the Silk Road as well as the magnificent capital of the Timurid Dynasty, founded by the powerful, eponymous 14th century ruler.
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Prestigious men’s surcoats embellished with designs such as this dramatic decoration in cross-stitch were among the most elaborate silk-thread embroidered garments in Central Asia. In a flamboyant style, large palmettes framed by split palmette leaves dominate with quartered rosettes and smaller flora on a brilliant yellow ground. Foliate vines enhance the edge along the front center opening, hemline, and cuffs. It is lined with an ikat of cypress trees and finger-looped trim. The style and technique represent professional work from Shahr-i Sabz, south of Samarkand. The pattern was drawn on the cotton ground cloth of the surcoat, then disassembled for stitching, and finally reassembled—revealed by severed and misaligned motifs plus mismatched colors.
suzani
Suzani is the extraordinarily beautiful and intricate embroidery tradition of Uzbekistan. Threads of silk or cotton are dyed vivid colors and stitched into the elaborate designs used to decorate bed covers, table cloths, and other household items.
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A silk on silk suzani cushion
