Groningen is a province in the North-East of the Netherlands. On the east it borders on Germany, on the west on Friesland, on the south on Drenthe and on the north on the North Sea.
Hello All, I want to cover all of Europe eventually, and i thought i would talk about the Netherlands today. Many people think of the Volendam costume when they think about Holland or the Netherlands. This is the costume which is replicated on all kinds of labels under 'Dutch Maid', with the peaked and winged cap. In fact, the costume is only worn in the one village of Volendam, and is not representative or typical of the Netherlands as a whole. Nonetheless, it is very famous, for reasons which are unknown to me, and so i will adress it first. Volendam is in the province of North Holland, on the west coast of the [former?] Zuidersee. It is one of a handful of towns and villages in the Netherlands where the folk costume is still a living tradition with some people. You can see it here on this map. There are three variants of the costume, which is why you may have wondered why different images did not look the same. There is the everyday costume, and the young girl's costume which resembles it, the Sunday go to Market costume, and the costume for special occasions, which is the one you most often see these days. I will start with a description of the last one, which is called the 'Bruiloftsgast' or 'Wedding Guest' costume. The foundation is a chemise, which has no sleeves, and a petticoat. The traditional costume is about ankle length. The chemise does not show when the costume is completed. Over the chemise is worn a 'kraplap', also called 'koplap' ' kralap' or 'kroplap', a type of double bib, similar to the overcollar found in some German costumes. It fastens at the neck and is secured on the bottom by ribbons on the front panel which thread through loops attached to the back panel. The kraplap is found in many Dutch costumes, and is often decorated. Mevrouw Kil will be showing us how to put on the costume. Here are a couple of kraplaps from the early 1900's. These are made from printed cloth. I suspect that earlier they were embroidered, but i have no actual confirmation of that. An equivalant piece of the costume is still embroidered in Walcheren and Urk, and covered in beadwork in Axel, but made of a simple piece of printed cloth in Marken and elsewhere. They are made in two pieces, front and back, one shoulder is sewn closed, and the other has a fastening. There is a piece of ribbon or lace around the neck opening. Today, the kraplap usually has a design of machine-embroidered satin stitch flowers, usually roses. Here is an example of a contemporary kraplap. Around 1930 a family named Tol developed a way to mechanically spray paint Rose designs on a silk background using a series of templates This appears to be the precourser to the machine embroidered ones of today. Here is an old photo of a girl with a nice smile, and no roses on her kraplap, but what look like embroidered flowers. Here are some examples of the more common contemporary kraplaps. Kraplaps made of printed material are also still worn. When dressing up, an 'Edelkraal' is placed around the neck, made of several strands of coral beads and an ornamental buckle. You can see this on several of the images. The skirt is then put on, the white and red striped skirt for the 'Wedding Guest' costume, otherwise a long full skirt in a plain dark color, most commonly black or navy. The women in Marken, just a few kilometers away, wear a very similar striped skirt, but always under the topskirt. They make fun of Volendamers for walking around in their 'underwear'. Over this is put on the 'kletje', a blouse or jacket of black wool with a bit of a peplum in back, and a couple of wide lappets in front. It has a square-cut neckline both front and back, which are edged with trim. The front closes with hooks. Here is Mevrouw Kil again. Here is a back view of the kletje being worn, showing the embroidery on the kraplap. Then the apron is put on over the kletje.The apron should be long and full. You can see cheap versions which are sometimes not made long or full enough. The apron has a tie which is usually made of an ornamentally woven band. For the 'Wedding Guest' costume, the apron is black, or perhaps another dark color, and the top part of the apron matches the kraplap. whether embroidered as here, Or made of printed material. When worn properly, the 'Wedding Guest' costume incudes a white kerchief worn over the shoulders and tucked into the front neckline of the kletje. Mevrouw Kil shows us how it should look. For the Sunday and Market-day costumes, they wear a dark or black skirt, a striped apron, and a scarf woven or knitted from colorful yarn instead of the white kerchief. The Market day apron is often decorated over the gathers at the top with colorful smocking. The every day costume consists of a shirt made of printed cloth, consisting of small motifs set in lines, and a simple apron. The high lace cap is not worn, but the black undercap is. I do not have the cut of this shirt , but the pictures seem to show the cloth set in horizontally around the waist, and gathers or tucks on the front. Rules, are of course, made to be broken. Some women like the everyday shirt so much they wear it with their market day costume, sometimes with the full lace cap. When it starts to show signs of wear, then it becomes an everyday shirt. This woman is obviously on her way to market. She is wearing a fancy purse hanging from her apron strings. I have not seen this anywhere else. More commonly, Dutch women wear a cloth pocket under the apron, very similar to the ones i describe in the Provencal costume. In Dutch they are called zijzak. Here is one nicely embroidered zijzak from Volendam. The famous peaked lace caps are supported by the black undercaps. The caps themselves are made of two symmetrical pieces for the body of the cap, derived from the round back of the standard bonnet, and two wings, derived from the rectangular piece that makes up the top and sides of a bonnet. I do not have an exact cut, but the good ones are made of very fine and beautifully made lace, and the wings are gathered and pleated to shape. There are some spectacular examples above, as well. This high peaked cap is a relatively modern innovation, from around the turn of the 20th cent, in much the same way as the lace cap of Bigouden, in Brittany. Here is a famous painting of the Volendam costume made in 1865, showing a much more modest cap, albeit with similar wings. No other Dutch costume has a similar cap, although some are just as impressive. You can see that she is wearing black leather shoes with silver buckles. The famous wooden shoes are indeed worn, but not to Church, and not inside the house. They are very practical in mud, sand, and doing dirty work outside. Also some dances rely on the clomp and clatter they make. If you wish to purchase some, get them one or two sizes too large, as you will need a couple pairs of thick socks and/or a sheepskin pad over the top of your instep and the top front edge to be able to wear them with any comfort. One last variant is the girl's costume, which resembles the everyday costume, but has a matching rather plain blouse and skirt. I hope that you have found this interesting. Maybe you will be able to get to Volendam and have your picture taken posing in this famous costume. One more image of Volendam ladies with very impressive high lace caps and smocking on their aprons. And two last saucy prints from Gardilanne and Moffat. There are several sites online which make costumes. Here is a website from which you can order Dutch costumes out of Orange city, Iowa. http://www.octulipfestival.com/history-heritage/dutch-costumes/ Here is another one, This one offers kits, patterns, and Dutch fabrics, but their costumes are simplified. http://www.fieldsfabricsonline.com/Dutch_c_272.htmlhttp://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=5790425923241370525&postID=908598908426786324 Another website out of Holland, Michigan http://www.tuliptime.com/dutch-dance-costumes/ And a very wonderful website from the fabulous OpenAir Museum in the Netherlands. http://www.openluchtmuseum.nl/index.php?pid=372&sub=5 Here is a video showing some Voledam girls and one Marken girl in a Bulgarian line dance at some festival. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7m2PGlFKTj8 Here is a Dutch dance showing several of the better known costumes, including a couple of ladies in the Volendam. Unfortunately, much of the Dutch dance tradition that was mentioned in historical records has disappeared due to the influence of Calvinism. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNmpkeY41xA&feature=related Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. I also choreograph and teach folk dance. Roman K. [email protected] Source Material: A. Groen, 'Dutch Costumes', Elmar, B V, the Netherlands Constance Neuwhoff, 'Klederdrachten', Amsterdam, 1976 Jackie Craver and Phyllis Zylstra, 'Dutch Costumes, a Look into the Past', Pella, Iowa, 2007 Elsa M Valeton, 'Niederlandischer Trachten', Amsterdam, after 1959 E. Van der Ven-Ten Bensel, 'Dances of the Netherlands', New York, 1949 Gardilanne and Moffat, 'National Costumes of Holland', year unknown
‘t is mien vriendinne . i . … saampies an de wandel … . . . . i . . . . . . i . . . . . i . .
Couple in traditional dress, Keukenhof Gardens, The Netherlands
Hello All, I want to cover all of Europe eventually, and i thought i would talk about the Netherlands today. Many people think of the Volendam costume when they think about Holland or the Netherlands. This is the costume which is replicated on all kinds of labels under 'Dutch Maid', with the peaked and winged cap. In fact, the costume is only worn in the one village of Volendam, and is not representative or typical of the Netherlands as a whole. Nonetheless, it is very famous, for reasons which are unknown to me, and so i will adress it first. Volendam is in the province of North Holland, on the west coast of the [former?] Zuidersee. It is one of a handful of towns and villages in the Netherlands where the folk costume is still a living tradition with some people. You can see it here on this map. There are three variants of the costume, which is why you may have wondered why different images did not look the same. There is the everyday costume, and the young girl's costume which resembles it, the Sunday go to Market costume, and the costume for special occasions, which is the one you most often see these days. I will start with a description of the last one, which is called the 'Bruiloftsgast' or 'Wedding Guest' costume. The foundation is a chemise, which has no sleeves, and a petticoat. The traditional costume is about ankle length. The chemise does not show when the costume is completed. Over the chemise is worn a 'kraplap', also called 'koplap' ' kralap' or 'kroplap', a type of double bib, similar to the overcollar found in some German costumes. It fastens at the neck and is secured on the bottom by ribbons on the front panel which thread through loops attached to the back panel. The kraplap is found in many Dutch costumes, and is often decorated. Mevrouw Kil will be showing us how to put on the costume. Here are a couple of kraplaps from the early 1900's. These are made from printed cloth. I suspect that earlier they were embroidered, but i have no actual confirmation of that. An equivalant piece of the costume is still embroidered in Walcheren and Urk, and covered in beadwork in Axel, but made of a simple piece of printed cloth in Marken and elsewhere. They are made in two pieces, front and back, one shoulder is sewn closed, and the other has a fastening. There is a piece of ribbon or lace around the neck opening. Today, the kraplap usually has a design of machine-embroidered satin stitch flowers, usually roses. Here is an example of a contemporary kraplap. Around 1930 a family named Tol developed a way to mechanically spray paint Rose designs on a silk background using a series of templates This appears to be the precourser to the machine embroidered ones of today. Here is an old photo of a girl with a nice smile, and no roses on her kraplap, but what look like embroidered flowers. Here are some examples of the more common contemporary kraplaps. Kraplaps made of printed material are also still worn. When dressing up, an 'Edelkraal' is placed around the neck, made of several strands of coral beads and an ornamental buckle. You can see this on several of the images. The skirt is then put on, the white and red striped skirt for the 'Wedding Guest' costume, otherwise a long full skirt in a plain dark color, most commonly black or navy. The women in Marken, just a few kilometers away, wear a very similar striped skirt, but always under the topskirt. They make fun of Volendamers for walking around in their 'underwear'. Over this is put on the 'kletje', a blouse or jacket of black wool with a bit of a peplum in back, and a couple of wide lappets in front. It has a square-cut neckline both front and back, which are edged with trim. The front closes with hooks. Here is Mevrouw Kil again. Here is a back view of the kletje being worn, showing the embroidery on the kraplap. Then the apron is put on over the kletje.The apron should be long and full. You can see cheap versions which are sometimes not made long or full enough. The apron has a tie which is usually made of an ornamentally woven band. For the 'Wedding Guest' costume, the apron is black, or perhaps another dark color, and the top part of the apron matches the kraplap. whether embroidered as here, Or made of printed material. When worn properly, the 'Wedding Guest' costume incudes a white kerchief worn over the shoulders and tucked into the front neckline of the kletje. Mevrouw Kil shows us how it should look. For the Sunday and Market-day costumes, they wear a dark or black skirt, a striped apron, and a scarf woven or knitted from colorful yarn instead of the white kerchief. The Market day apron is often decorated over the gathers at the top with colorful smocking. The every day costume consists of a shirt made of printed cloth, consisting of small motifs set in lines, and a simple apron. The high lace cap is not worn, but the black undercap is. I do not have the cut of this shirt , but the pictures seem to show the cloth set in horizontally around the waist, and gathers or tucks on the front. Rules, are of course, made to be broken. Some women like the everyday shirt so much they wear it with their market day costume, sometimes with the full lace cap. When it starts to show signs of wear, then it becomes an everyday shirt. This woman is obviously on her way to market. She is wearing a fancy purse hanging from her apron strings. I have not seen this anywhere else. More commonly, Dutch women wear a cloth pocket under the apron, very similar to the ones i describe in the Provencal costume. In Dutch they are called zijzak. Here is one nicely embroidered zijzak from Volendam. The famous peaked lace caps are supported by the black undercaps. The caps themselves are made of two symmetrical pieces for the body of the cap, derived from the round back of the standard bonnet, and two wings, derived from the rectangular piece that makes up the top and sides of a bonnet. I do not have an exact cut, but the good ones are made of very fine and beautifully made lace, and the wings are gathered and pleated to shape. There are some spectacular examples above, as well. This high peaked cap is a relatively modern innovation, from around the turn of the 20th cent, in much the same way as the lace cap of Bigouden, in Brittany. Here is a famous painting of the Volendam costume made in 1865, showing a much more modest cap, albeit with similar wings. No other Dutch costume has a similar cap, although some are just as impressive. You can see that she is wearing black leather shoes with silver buckles. The famous wooden shoes are indeed worn, but not to Church, and not inside the house. They are very practical in mud, sand, and doing dirty work outside. Also some dances rely on the clomp and clatter they make. If you wish to purchase some, get them one or two sizes too large, as you will need a couple pairs of thick socks and/or a sheepskin pad over the top of your instep and the top front edge to be able to wear them with any comfort. One last variant is the girl's costume, which resembles the everyday costume, but has a matching rather plain blouse and skirt. I hope that you have found this interesting. Maybe you will be able to get to Volendam and have your picture taken posing in this famous costume. One more image of Volendam ladies with very impressive high lace caps and smocking on their aprons. And two last saucy prints from Gardilanne and Moffat. There are several sites online which make costumes. Here is a website from which you can order Dutch costumes out of Orange city, Iowa. http://www.octulipfestival.com/history-heritage/dutch-costumes/ Here is another one, This one offers kits, patterns, and Dutch fabrics, but their costumes are simplified. http://www.fieldsfabricsonline.com/Dutch_c_272.htmlhttp://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=5790425923241370525&postID=908598908426786324 Another website out of Holland, Michigan http://www.tuliptime.com/dutch-dance-costumes/ And a very wonderful website from the fabulous OpenAir Museum in the Netherlands. http://www.openluchtmuseum.nl/index.php?pid=372&sub=5 Here is a video showing some Voledam girls and one Marken girl in a Bulgarian line dance at some festival. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7m2PGlFKTj8 Here is a Dutch dance showing several of the better known costumes, including a couple of ladies in the Volendam. Unfortunately, much of the Dutch dance tradition that was mentioned in historical records has disappeared due to the influence of Calvinism. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNmpkeY41xA&feature=related Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. I also choreograph and teach folk dance. Roman K. [email protected] Source Material: A. Groen, 'Dutch Costumes', Elmar, B V, the Netherlands Constance Neuwhoff, 'Klederdrachten', Amsterdam, 1976 Jackie Craver and Phyllis Zylstra, 'Dutch Costumes, a Look into the Past', Pella, Iowa, 2007 Elsa M Valeton, 'Niederlandischer Trachten', Amsterdam, after 1959 E. Van der Ven-Ten Bensel, 'Dances of the Netherlands', New York, 1949 Gardilanne and Moffat, 'National Costumes of Holland', year unknown
> girl from the town of Huizen , Holland , several decades ago - naar verluidt het allerlaatste meisje dat nog in de plaats Huizen in klederdracht rondliep , maar door haar 'vriendinnetjes' daarmee zo geplaagd schijnt te zijn geweest , dat ze uiteindelijk maar besloot de klederdracht voorgoed aan de wilgen te hangen .....
Heidi van het Noorse klederdracht magazin BUNAD en 18 leden van de Noorse Folkedraktforum reisden in augustus 2011 naar Nederland om de klederdracht van twee plaatsen te bestuderen. Het was een zeer informatieve en indrukwekkende reis. ANDREA TEBBENHOFF, lid van de Noorse Folkedraktforum had de reis georganiseerd. Andrea is van Nederlandse afkomst en is bekend met STAPHORST en SPAKENBURG waar nog dagelijks klederdracht wordt gedragen door een aantal vrouwen. Dankzij Andrea konden de Noorse vrouwen van dichtbij kennismaken met de klederdracht uit Staphorst en Spakenburg. In de BUNAD magazins nr.4 van 2011 en nr.1 van 2012 stonden uitgebreide artikelen over deze reis. Een aantal pagina's van twee artikelen uit de betreffende magazins en een serie foto's van de website van MAGASINET BUNAD. Magasinet BUNAD 4-2011 Magasinet BUNAD 1-2012 Twee Noorse vrouwen gekleed in Staphorster klederdracht Een Staphorster vrouw toont het stipwerk. Een vaste hand! Indrukwekkende resultaten. Een Staphorster vrouw laat zien hoe een muts wordt gemaakt Mouwtjes voor kinderen Klederdracht Spakenburg Plooien maken voor een mutsje Kraplappen voor in de rouw Margot Sollie was verkleed in klederdracht, hier te midden van twee Spakenburgse vrouwen Tevreden leden van de NFF Veel indrukken om over na te praten Veel moois op de planken Tekst en foto's: Heidi Fossnes, Magasinet BUNAD MAGASINET BUNAD Het volgende verslag is van de website NORSK FOLKEDRAKTFORUM. De reis begon vanaf luchthaven Schiphol Amsterdam, daar stond een bus klaar die ons naar het hotel in Amersfoort bracht. Na het eten informeerde Andrea ons over Nederland en het programma voor de volgende dagen. Eerst bezochten we Staphorst en ontmoetten daar Aaltje Troost. Zij heette ons welkom bij haar thuis en liet ons klederdracht zien. Twee Noorse vrouwen krijgen klederdracht aan. Aaltje Troost draagt nog iedere dag klederdracht, daar is ze trots op. De dracht bestaat uit een muts van stipwerk. Aan de kleuren kun je zien of iemand in of uit de rouw is. Een vrouw in de rouw draagt een muts met stippen in wit en verschillende blauw tinten, een vrouw uit de rouw draagt een muts met de kleuren rood, geel groen en wit. Aaltje Troost maakt zelf geen stipwerk meer, maar ze liet ons wel zien hoe het stipwerk gedaan wordt. Twee Staphorster vrouwen, rechts Aaltje Troost Na de lunch bezochten we de MUSEUM BOERDERIJ, dat is een particulier museum. Hier keken we in de kast waar het textiel wordt bewaard. Mevrouw van Dijk-Koobs liet ons zien hoe de kap wordt gemaakt. Mevrouw van Dijk-Koobs liet ons zien hoe de muts wordt gemaakt. De volgende dag gingen we naar Spakenburg. In Spakenburg zijn veel vrouwen die nog dagelijks de klederdracht dragen. Eerst bezochten we het KLEDERDRACHT- EN VISSERIJMUSEUM. Voordat de rondleiding begon, werd één van onze leden in klederdracht gestoken. Na de lunch was er een klederdracht modeshow met modellen van verschillende leeftijden. Er werd kleding geshowd uit de periode van 1800 tot heden. In Spakenburg zijn ook kostuums voor in en uit de rouw, de verschillen zijn goed te zien. In MUSEUM SPAKENBURG kregen we een rondleiding en mochten veel klederdracht bekijken en aanraken. De avond werd afgesloten met een rondleiding door een molen en een diner in het naastgelegen restaurant. Zondag was de dag van vertrek. We werden naar Amsterdam gebracht voor een rondvaart door de grachten. Aan boord kregen we een lunch. Na de boottocht bracht de bus ons naar Schiphol en vlogen we terug naar Noorwegen. Tekst en foto's: Mona Løkting NORSK FOLKEDRAKTFORUM Met dank aan Heidi Fossnes, Mona Løkting en Andrea Tebbenhoff. Op mijn blog "De tante van Tjorven" kun je onder het LABEL KLEDERDRACHT alle berichten lezen over Staphorst en Spakenburg.
Hello all, Today I will talk about the costume of Friesland in the Netherlands. Europe is, in general, the most uniform part of the world, Ethnically and Linguistically speaking, which is the result of the tradition of Nation-States. Many small ethnic groups have been assimilated at a greater rate compared to Asia or Africa. Nevertheless, there are still about 100 languages spoken on the continent. Even in western Europe there are minority languages still extant. One of these small ethnicities are the Frisians. Here is a map of Historical Friesland, which consisted of the north sea coastal area from the Netherlands to Denmark. Today, most Frisians have been assimilated by the Danish, German, and Dutch peoples. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frisia The Frisians are divided into three groups, the West Frisians, the East Frisians and the North Frisians. They speak a language, or three closely related languages of their own, which are closely related to English, and very distinct from Dutch, German, and Danish. Here is a map showing the current extant of the Frisian Language(s). There are currently about 500,000 speakers of Frisian, the vast majority of which speak West Frisian. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frisian_languages I will be focusing on the West Frisians and their costume today. West Frisian is recognized as a language in the Netherlands, and the Frisians have their own Province, which is officially called Fryslân in the Frisian Language, and simply Friesland in Dutch. I should mention that in the Netherlands, there is another region called West Friesland, which is part of North Holland. Here is a map of Friesland and its position in the Netherlands. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Friesland And here is the flag of Fryslân. There is a flag which has been designed to represent all the Frisian People, but it has not been officially adopted by the InterFrisian Council. Fryslân is an area with very rich farmland, and so the farmers in this area are historically quite well off. The costume of this area reflects this, being based on the Burgher's costumes of a couple of centuries ago. The basic parts of the woman's costume is a full skirt, the rok, and a blouse/jacket, the jak, with a skirt gathered into the waist which reaches to between hip and mid thigh. There is a chemise, the sleeves of which sometimes show, a petticoat, or more than one, and most likely bloomers underneath. This is essential to keeping the line of the skirt. A regrettable tendency among some modern dance groups, especially in America is the omission of the petticoat. This results in the skirt sticking to the legs, and hanging limply in too narrow a fashion, as in this photograph. The other mistake is that the hair should not be visible. Other than that, they did a reasonable job, but i will only present this one photograph from America, the others are all from Fryslân. The jak en rok are made in many colors, with many differences in detail in cut, especially of the sleeves. There is some resemblance to the traditional Welsh costume, but the overall effect is quite different. Here are some examples of the jak en rok. Less costly materials are used for everyday wear. As you can see, most of the time, the jak and the rok are made of the same material, but not always. Here are some dancers from West Friesland. On Sundays, or for special occasions, richer materials are used. The neckline of the jak varies somewhat. There is a triangular fichu worn over the shoulders, and an apron worn over the jak. Here are a couple of women dressed in everyday attire. The one on the left is wearing a plaid jak en rok and an apron of solid cloth. The lace sleeves of the chemise are visible. Her accessories, which are usual, consist of a pin holding the fichu closed, as well as a purse and chatelaine hanging from the waist. The woman on the right is wearing jak en rok of plain black and a fichu of calico. She also gives us a good look at the headress which is specific to this region. When a woman is grown, her hair is cut short. She then wears a cap of white eyelet linen and over that, a black cap. These are both visible in this photo above. Over the caps is worn the Oorijzer, the 'ear iron'. Here is an old painting showing a young woman about to have her hair cut short so as to put on the adult headdress [and apparently not very happy about it]. The woman on the left is holding a large pair of scissors, and the lace overcap and Oorijzer are sitting on the chair at left. The Oorijzer is is not unique to this area, it is very common in many parts of the Netherlands, but in Fryslân it is unusually large. Where it is usually a band of metal with knobs on the ends, here the Oorijzer has become widened almost to helmet proportions. It is usually made of gold, but sometimes of silver. It is made to fit an individual woman, and always has a v shaped opening in front. Over the Oorijzer, a lace cap is worn, which covers the black undercap and the Oorijzer. The cap is always made of lace, so that the gold of the Oorijzer shows through. There is a frill in back over the nape of the neck. The 'knobs' are left uncovered, and pins hold the cap in place. The knobs are highly ornamented and sometimes set with stones. In the 1800's, the frill hung down to the shoulders. More recently, the frill has gotten shorter, sometimes being reduced to a mere ruffle, which i personally find much less attractive. Here are some examples from different time periods. Over the cap with the frill, a straw hat or top hat were sometimes worn. For the men, the costume consisted of cable knit knee socks, buckled shoes, black knickers, tailcoat and top hat, and brocade vest. They also carried silver in the form of watch chains. I will close with a few more images of this costume. I wish to voice my support of all those who work to keep this type of clothing a living tradition. Good wishes to all who work hard to keep their local clothing tradition alive. Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. I also choreograph and teach folk dance. Roman K. [email protected] Source Material: A. Groen, 'Dutch Costumes', Elmar, B V, the Netherlands Constance Neuwhoff, 'Klederdrachten', Amsterdam, 1976 Jackie Craver and Phyllis Zylstra, 'Dutch Costumes, a Look into the Past', Pella, Iowa, 2007 Elsa M Valeton, 'Niederlandischer Trachten', Amsterdam, after 1959 E. Van der Ven-Ten Bensel, 'Dances of the Netherlands', New York, 1949 Gardilanne and Moffat, 'National Costumes of Holland', year unknown James Snowden, 'The Folk Dress of Europe', 1979, New York, London LIlla Fox, 'Folk Costumes of Western Europe', 1969, London
P1170780
Hello all, Today I will talk about the costume of Friesland in the Netherlands. Europe is, in general, the most uniform part of the world, Ethnically and Linguistically speaking, which is the result of the tradition of Nation-States. Many small ethnic groups have been assimilated at a greater rate compared to Asia or Africa. Nevertheless, there are still about 100 languages spoken on the continent. Even in western Europe there are minority languages still extant. One of these small ethnicities are the Frisians. Here is a map of Historical Friesland, which consisted of the north sea coastal area from the Netherlands to Denmark. Today, most Frisians have been assimilated by the Danish, German, and Dutch peoples. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frisia The Frisians are divided into three groups, the West Frisians, the East Frisians and the North Frisians. They speak a language, or three closely related languages of their own, which are closely related to English, and very distinct from Dutch, German, and Danish. Here is a map showing the current extant of the Frisian Language(s). There are currently about 500,000 speakers of Frisian, the vast majority of which speak West Frisian. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frisian_languages I will be focusing on the West Frisians and their costume today. West Frisian is recognized as a language in the Netherlands, and the Frisians have their own Province, which is officially called Fryslân in the Frisian Language, and simply Friesland in Dutch. I should mention that in the Netherlands, there is another region called West Friesland, which is part of North Holland. Here is a map of Friesland and its position in the Netherlands. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Friesland And here is the flag of Fryslân. There is a flag which has been designed to represent all the Frisian People, but it has not been officially adopted by the InterFrisian Council. Fryslân is an area with very rich farmland, and so the farmers in this area are historically quite well off. The costume of this area reflects this, being based on the Burgher's costumes of a couple of centuries ago. The basic parts of the woman's costume is a full skirt, the rok, and a blouse/jacket, the jak, with a skirt gathered into the waist which reaches to between hip and mid thigh. There is a chemise, the sleeves of which sometimes show, a petticoat, or more than one, and most likely bloomers underneath. This is essential to keeping the line of the skirt. A regrettable tendency among some modern dance groups, especially in America is the omission of the petticoat. This results in the skirt sticking to the legs, and hanging limply in too narrow a fashion, as in this photograph. The other mistake is that the hair should not be visible. Other than that, they did a reasonable job, but i will only present this one photograph from America, the others are all from Fryslân. The jak en rok are made in many colors, with many differences in detail in cut, especially of the sleeves. There is some resemblance to the traditional Welsh costume, but the overall effect is quite different. Here are some examples of the jak en rok. Less costly materials are used for everyday wear. As you can see, most of the time, the jak and the rok are made of the same material, but not always. Here are some dancers from West Friesland. On Sundays, or for special occasions, richer materials are used. The neckline of the jak varies somewhat. There is a triangular fichu worn over the shoulders, and an apron worn over the jak. Here are a couple of women dressed in everyday attire. The one on the left is wearing a plaid jak en rok and an apron of solid cloth. The lace sleeves of the chemise are visible. Her accessories, which are usual, consist of a pin holding the fichu closed, as well as a purse and chatelaine hanging from the waist. The woman on the right is wearing jak en rok of plain black and a fichu of calico. She also gives us a good look at the headress which is specific to this region. When a woman is grown, her hair is cut short. She then wears a cap of white eyelet linen and over that, a black cap. These are both visible in this photo above. Over the caps is worn the Oorijzer, the 'ear iron'. Here is an old painting showing a young woman about to have her hair cut short so as to put on the adult headdress [and apparently not very happy about it]. The woman on the left is holding a large pair of scissors, and the lace overcap and Oorijzer are sitting on the chair at left. The Oorijzer is is not unique to this area, it is very common in many parts of the Netherlands, but in Fryslân it is unusually large. Where it is usually a band of metal with knobs on the ends, here the Oorijzer has become widened almost to helmet proportions. It is usually made of gold, but sometimes of silver. It is made to fit an individual woman, and always has a v shaped opening in front. Over the Oorijzer, a lace cap is worn, which covers the black undercap and the Oorijzer. The cap is always made of lace, so that the gold of the Oorijzer shows through. There is a frill in back over the nape of the neck. The 'knobs' are left uncovered, and pins hold the cap in place. The knobs are highly ornamented and sometimes set with stones. In the 1800's, the frill hung down to the shoulders. More recently, the frill has gotten shorter, sometimes being reduced to a mere ruffle, which i personally find much less attractive. Here are some examples from different time periods. Over the cap with the frill, a straw hat or top hat were sometimes worn. For the men, the costume consisted of cable knit knee socks, buckled shoes, black knickers, tailcoat and top hat, and brocade vest. They also carried silver in the form of watch chains. I will close with a few more images of this costume. I wish to voice my support of all those who work to keep this type of clothing a living tradition. Good wishes to all who work hard to keep their local clothing tradition alive. Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. I also choreograph and teach folk dance. Roman K. [email protected] Source Material: A. Groen, 'Dutch Costumes', Elmar, B V, the Netherlands Constance Neuwhoff, 'Klederdrachten', Amsterdam, 1976 Jackie Craver and Phyllis Zylstra, 'Dutch Costumes, a Look into the Past', Pella, Iowa, 2007 Elsa M Valeton, 'Niederlandischer Trachten', Amsterdam, after 1959 E. Van der Ven-Ten Bensel, 'Dances of the Netherlands', New York, 1949 Gardilanne and Moffat, 'National Costumes of Holland', year unknown James Snowden, 'The Folk Dress of Europe', 1979, New York, London LIlla Fox, 'Folk Costumes of Western Europe', 1969, London
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To continue, we cross the waters of the southern sea to the other part of the North, North-Holland. Holland btw is not the name of the Netherlands, it is one of the provinces. there are two, north-…
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