Want to know why arcade machines are so expensive? We'll give you the top 10 reasons why plus so much more.
FULL-SIZE COMMERCIAL GRADE: Equipped with the Highest Quality SANWA Joysticks, 26" LCD Monitor, Thick Tempered Glass, and more! We stand behind our products because we are industry leaders in quality craftsmanship and design. 60 CLASSIC GAMES INCLUDED: Feel like a kid again while playing the pre-installed 80's and 90's classic games! Whether playing for fun or competitively with your friends and family, this arcade machine is guaranteed to be a big hit! PLUG AND PLAY: No setup necessary. Simply plug the game machine in and choose from a comprehensive game list. Supports free and paid gameplay with no setup required. All of our Arcade Models also include a commercial grade custom Volume Control Module with Bass, Treble and Balance inside the cabinet. 3-YEAR WARRANTY: When you lead the industry in construction quality, it's easy to offer the industry-best warranty. We guarantee that the arcade will operate as intended - if not, we expedite brand new parts for easy repair. Purchase with confidence that this classic arcade was built to last. DIMENSIONS: 42"L X 33.5"W X 33"H
The Internet Arcade, our collection of working arcade machines that run in the browser, has gotten a new upgrade in its 4th year. Advancements by both the MAME emulator team and the Emscripten conversion process allowed our team to go through many more potential arcade machines and add them to the site. The majority of […]
In the 70s and 80s, the notion of “sex sells” had a lot of traction from what I can remember. It seemed that the lowest common denominator of advertising was to stick a scantily clad yo…
I have always wanted to own my own arcade. I have been playing around with the Raspberry Pi since the first model came out back in 2012. Once I saw the perfo...
Since I have had many people from out of state requesting me to make a kit, I am putting vewlix #3 on hold for now. I started brainstorming ...
Namco Bandai is getting ready to announce an update to its Tekken 6 arcade fighter in Japan. No word yet on what new features Tekken 6 Bloodline Rebellion will bring to the table, but we could very well be seeing some new characters, stages and modes, like in the recent Virtua Fighter 5 R update. […]
The Centipede effect. '81.
Raspberry PiSONE Multiple Entertainment Centre: After the success of my first Instructible here's my second one! It's not a million miles away from the arcade machine I built but the arcade machine is only a one player machine and it's only a got small one person screen.So this build is going to …
Celebrate the 50th Anniversary of Atari with Arcade1Up's Arcade Machine. Immerse yourself in the world of classic gaming with this feature-packed cabinet. Experience the nostalgia on the 17" BOE screen, as you dive into the iconic Atari games. With built-in Wi-Fi, you can connect, compete, and share your high scores with gamers worldwide.
Jeff Atwood (coincidentally the cocaine-dusted, AK-toting godfather of our comment system) writes at length about the absolutely fabulous things that the tiny, supremely adaptable Raspberry Pi computers have done for…
Bartop Arcade Ett galleri/bygglogg över mitt Arkadspelsbygge. Det hela började vid morgonkaffet på jobbet då en arbetskamrat och jag pratade om möjligheterna...
It’s the Neon Series Arcade Pinball Machine!. With vibrating bumpers and flashing lights. Has electronic score counter and arcade soundsUsesIt’s great for the whole familyTips and AdviceRequires 3 x AA batteries (not included). Measures approx. 41 cm x 28 cm x 14 cm
Project Index TableTop Arcade - Raspberry Pi 3 & RetroPie Setup, Part 1 TableTop Arcade - Raspberry Pi 3 & RetroPie Setup, Part 2 TableTop Arcade - Controller & Parts Selection TableTop Arcade - Cabinet Construction & Cutting TableTop Arcade - Assembly, Electrical, and Painting TableTop Arcade - Artwork, Speakers, Marquee TableTop Arcade - Wiring and Wrapping Up TableTop Arcade - Final Build Pics Assembly Now that all of our wood pieces have been cut out and prepped, its time to start putting this thing together! This part was a bit more tricky than I had anticipated, and took a lot of trial and error to get everything to line up perfectly. The idea is to use small wood "batons" to act as supports and stops for the various panels. The picture below shows how they are used to block the various panels into place. The key is to stat with one side first, get everything lined up how you want it, and mark your joints. Then mark those same joints on the other side before you start gluing or nailing anything down. I used painters tape to hold everything together while testing out the fit of my markings just to be sure. After you have marked both sides, and are pleased with the fit, its time to secure everything to the panels. I used a combination of wood glue and brad nails. You can probably get away with just using wood glue, but with an air compressor, putting in a few brad nails for extra support is an easy task. Once all of the batons were secure and in place, its time to begin putting everything together. Starting with the monitor panel, I worked my way around the cabinet, gluing and clamping down the various pieces as can be seen below. If your measurements are good, everything will fit together neatly. Keep things clamped together for at least a few hours before you move the cabinet. I recommend letting it sit with the clamps on overnight. Electrical Wiring With the cabinet assembled and the glue drying, it went ahead and added the modular power inlet. This using a standard computer / monitor power cable, which I then wired directly to a surge protected power strip. Pretty simple to install, just cut a hole to fit, and after a bit of file work, made sure that it went in nice and snug. Don't screw it in yet, as we need to paint before securing this to the cabinet. Once I was sure it could be mounted in the hole correctly, I started the wiring process. I removed the wall plug end from the power strip and wired it to the inlet switch as shown below. I chose to use female spade adapters instead of directly soldering the connections. Note that there is more than one way to wire this switch, but the way shown here will allow the switch to light up when turned on. Painting & T-Molding With the cabinet fully assembled and the glue dry, its time to paint! I have seen people use cans of spray paint for this part, but this MDF really sucks up the paint, and you will go through a lot of cans of spray paint to cover properly. My wife had recently painted all of our interior doors black using a sprayer, so I used the left over paint and her sprayer to take care of my paint job. Would have done it outside, but the temperature has started to drop, so did it in the insulated garage, with some plastic protection applied. I gave the paint a solid 24 hours to dry before I moved the cabinet from the garage, back down to my project room. With everything coated in a nice black finish, next step is to add the T-Molding. I am using 3/4in T-molding to match the width of the side panels. Using a rubber mallet, I slowly worked my way around both sides. When getting to a corner, I nipped a bit of the insert to make it easier to get flush corner bends as shown below. Here we have a picture of everything painted black, and the T-Molding installed. If you have seen any of my other projects, you will know that I am a bit fan of Black/Blue themes. It looks great with the T-Molding installed against the black paint. The T-Molding also served as protection for the edges of the MDF, and adds a bit of grip to the bottom keeping the cabinet from sliding around. With most of the exterior work completed, next step is to install the display. This was tricky due to the built in speakers this monitor has. I'm not planning on using the built-in speakers but they increase the length of the monitor enough that I couldn't mount it without conflicting with the controller board buttons. The solution was to flip/rotate the display 180 degrees as shown below. I used the existing VESA holes on the back of the LCD to mount a piece of pine to the back. Then used additional wood pieces to create a bracket, using glue and brad nails to keep everything secure. And here it is, with the screen installed. As mentioned before, I had to rotate the display 180 degrees to make it work in this cabinet. Doing this on the Raspberry Pi is really easy, and here are the steps: Plug in a USB keyboard and power on the Pi Once EmulationStation has booted, hit F4 to launch the command console Type the following in the command line to edit the Configuration file: sudo nano /boot/config.txt Now add the following to the bottom of the configuration file and save: display_rotate=2 Go ahead and reboot, and the display will show right-side up (on your upside down screen)! If you ever need to revert back, setting display_rotate to 0 or deleting the line will set everything back to normal. Next up is the artwork and installing all of the buttons.
With nothing but pictures on their Facebook page and a prototype locked in a cabinet at the Gamescom convention in Cologne, Germany, 8Bitdo Tech HK LTD
