With basic sewing skills, you can master these common upholstery techniques.
Start ripping up your old sofa with these upholstery tools for beginners
Learn what upholstery fabrics are right for different types of DIY projects. Choose the right fabric for your upholstery job whether it's a sofa, headboard or a dining room chair.
With basic sewing skills, you can master these common upholstery techniques.
400 GSM and 100% Cotton Velvet. Width of Fabric is 42 inches and is sold per meter. Fabric that is ideal for winters. Keep up the style quotient and comfort factor with our 100% cotton velvet home products. "for quantity more than 1 meter, add the option 1 meter in the cart and increase quantity to the required meters. We will send it as one running fabric without any cuts".
If you have a tatty looking chair or a sofa that has seen better days then give it a new lease of life by having it re-upholstered using upholstery fabric.
Buy fabrics online. Best online fabric store. Apparel fabric stores online. Discount fabric online. Check out the awesome list now!
Roses Upholstery Fabric By Yard, Farmhouse Cottage Floral Fabric for chair,sofa, bench, curtain, cushion, home textile fabric, Blue, Pink FABRIC PROPERTIES: • Cotton Canvas Fabric • %65 Cotton %35 Polyester • Width 70 inches (180 cm, 1.8 meters) • Weight 6.3 oz/yd2 (215 gr/m2) • Suitable for indoor and outdoor use • Water Repellent • Soil Repellent • Oil Repellent • Linen Look • Cotton Touch • Natural Appearance • Machine Washable, Wipeable, Colorfast, and Shrinkproof • Durable, Healthy, and Breathable • Tested for harmful substances (OEKO-TEX® /STANDART100) • Country of Origin: Turkey MEASURES : • HALF YARD: 18" x 70" (46 cm x 180 cm) • ONE YARD : 36" x 70" (92 cm x 180 cm) • WEIGHT : 6.3 oz/yd2 (215 gr/m2) • Multiple yards are cut and sold in a continuous piece. • If you want to order multiple yards, please choose the length from the quantity option. If you order more than 1 item of the same fabric( 2 * 1 yard and 1*1/2 yard for example), the fabric will be sent in one piece (2.5 yards (90”) in 1 piece for the corresponding examples). IMPORTANT NOTICES: • Colors may show little color difference in different computer and mobile device screen settings. • The fabric is not completely 100% waterproof. The fabric has water, stain, and oil repellency. USAGE AREAS: • Suitable for indoor and outdoor • Home decor or upholstery fabric for sofas, chairs, benches, cushions, curtains, throw pillow, mattresses, lamp shades • Ideal for tablecloths, table mat, table runner, kitchen aprons • DIY Projects • Bags, Totebags, Backpacks • Play tents, cushions, baby nest, swings • Pet cushions, pet home accessories To see our other fabrics visit our shop sarahfabrichouse.etsy.com HOW TO USE: • 30°C gentle Machine Washing • Use detergent for the colored product • Do not use optical detergent • Do not tumble dry • Iron Medium • Iron Reserve side of the product SHIPPING : • Fast shipping with UPS, DHL, FedEx or TNT We welcome CUSTOM ORDERS. Please send us a message for your questions Feel Free to contact us if you have any question
With basic sewing skills, you can master these common upholstery techniques.
Sharing tips and tricks for how to upholster practically anything, with a step-by-step tutorial, and pictures to show you exactly how to upholster.
With basic sewing skills, you can master these common upholstery techniques.
Take your old, shabby chairs from cast-offs to cherished treasures. Try your hand at transforming your chair with upholstery the Chair Whimsy way!
If you are new to upholstery, check out these tips for making the job easier and more polished and professional looking!
Have you ever taken a piece of furniture to a professional upholsterer to see how much it would cost? It's freakin' expensive!! For the price they charge, you can get a whole new piece of
Decorative upholstery tacks are easy and fun to apply! Follow these tips and tricks for applying upholstery tacks quickly and in a STRAIGHT LINE!
High Pile Solid Upholstery Fabric by yard, High quality and soft hand, 28 colors To order a sample, you can create the code and color of the product you want using the link below. https://rokfabric.etsy.com/listing/1584923963 This fabric is perfect for drapery, pillows and furniture upholstery. This fabric measures 55 inches wide. Martindale: 50000rubs Composition: %100Polyester Weight: 430 g/m2 Washable at 30 degree. Orders are by yards and Shipping will be by express courier companies like DHL, TNT or FEDEX for quick delivery. Processing time is 1-3 days and we will inform you about tracking number after shipment. Please request for sample(0,10 yard at option).
This is the ultimate guide to sewing with piping. Learn how to sew with piping, and how to make it yourself. Sewing with piping is easy - if you know the right tips and tricks.
I consider myself a bit of a do-it-your-selfer, but after many years and many more failed projects, I have also come to realize my own limits. One of those limits is reupholstery. So, for me the question is not, “how do I reupholster this chair?” it is, “how much fabric should I buy to give to the guy I’m paying to reupholster this chair?
Plain Weave Upholstery fabric, Heavy weight 360 gr/m2 linen fabric by the yard or meter. Any length linen fabric. Linen fabric for loose covers, bags, aprons, decorative pillows, Curtains. STONE WASHED. Linen fabric is a very popular and highly appreciated material and is used for a variety of purposes. The fact that linen is the oldest natural fabrics used by humans – and used widely nowadays – illustrates well that it has lots of advantages and can be used for many purposes. DETAILS Fabric width is 140 cm / 55". Fabric is cut in one piece to your chosen length. We do sell in whole meters. Fabric weight: 360 g/m2, EUROPEAN FLAX® certified fabric Listing price is per meter. Please select the quantity you would like to buy. Available in following colours: optical white, silver, natural, Balsam Green, light green, blue, navy, steel grey, anthracite, aubergine. Not sure about the color?! Order sample set and make it easier. DELIVERY: We do ship fabric with DPD, Fedex or UPS economy. It usually takes 5 - 8 days depending on the country. Express delivery available - 1-3 business days in Europe and 1 -5 to other countries. If you will choose Express shipping, please leave your phone number in personalisation section to finish the order. It helps courier to deliver your package as soon as possible. All fabrics are prepared specially for you based on your inquiry and purchased quantity. We do apologise, but do not accept returns of fabrics unless it's faulty. If you are not sure about the colour or quality please order fabric swatches.
shopping fabrics
Painted upholstery is not always an easy project. Learn about common mistakes, how to fix them, and best practices for painting upholstery with this before and after DIY ottoman tutorial. Hi everyone! I’m so excited to be visiting you all today at Arts & Classy! I’m Stacy, and I blog at Anastasia Vintage, where my...
Maybe it's a husband who slobbers. Or a baby who projectile vomits. Mine did. In that case, cover everything in plastic. (wink) The best upholstery fabrics
shopping fabrics
If you are new to upholstery, check out these tips for making the job easier and more polished and professional looking!
Fabric samples from upholstery projects can easily be repurposed into a variety of household goods and useful DIY projects.
Refresh your room for Spring with these simple chair covers - it's easier than you might think, and saves your budget too!
We all need ideas for our projects, and sometimes those ideas are hard to come by. Just recently I was asked to put together fabric ideas for several clients who wanted custom chairs. This is the part of my job that I love doing. It’s really fun playing around with fabrics. However, it takes a…
Katso näistä linkeistä aikaisemmat postaukset: // Here are links to earlier posts: Introducing… my reupholstered retro sofa Reupholstering a sofa Part 1: Before reupholstering Ensimmäisessä osassa kerroin oman mielipiteeni siitä, mitä kannattaa ottaa huomioon jos aikoo verhoilla sohvan itse. Tässä osassa keskitytään enemmän itse verholuprojektiin. Lähdetään liikkeelle nitojasta. En missään tapauksessa lähtisi näin isoon projektiin pelkällä käsikäyttöisellä nitojalla, jonka voi ostaa muutamalla eurolla. Sillä pystyy kyllä tekemään pieniä projekteja, esimerkiksi tuolin istuimen verhoilun, mutta näin laajaan projektiin se on ihan liian työläs. Käsin painettava nitoja kipeyttää vahvemmankin käden aika nopeasti työkyvyttömäksi. Siksi näin isoon projektiin tarvitaan ehdottomasti paineilmakompressori ja siihen sopiva niittipyssy ja niitit. Itse lainasin paineilmakompressorin isältäni, mutta haaveilen kyllä ostavani joskus ikioman meille. Sitä voi käyttää niin moniin projekteihin! Ehkä sitten kun on enemmän harrastetilaa... Nitojan lisäksi kannattaa pitää lähellä myös niitinpoiston aikana käytetty lattapäinen ruuvimeisseli ja hyvät pihdit, sekä terävät sakset. // In the first part I explained what I think is important to consider before reupholstering something yourself. This part is more about the reupholstering itself. Let's start with the stapler. Never use a cheap hand stapler for a big project like this. It is fine for smaller projects like a chair seat cover, but in a project as big as this you'll only get really sore arms. I would recommend using a pneumatic stapler that uses compressed air. It's fast, easy and light to use. You'll also need a flathead screw driver, good pliers and sharp scissors. Verhoilukankaasta leikataan oikean kokoinen pala verhoiltavaan osaan nähden. Voit käyttää apuna sohvasta purettuja kankaan paloja, jotka on nimetty selkeästi. Itse käytin lisäksi kankaan alla levyvanua tuomaan lisäpehmeyttä. Jos käytät levyvanua, leikkaa se ensin suunnilleen oikean kokoiseksi ja aseta verhoiltavan osan päälle. Ammu yksi niitti yhden reunan keskelle ja sopivan jämäkästi pingottaen vastakkaisen puolen reunalle. Toista toisille sivuille. Ammu lisää niittejä noin 5-10 cm välein vaihdellen puolta, jotta kireys pysyy tasaisena. Kun kaikki reunat on niitattu, leikkaa ylijäävä vanu pois ja aseta verhoilukangas kohdilleen vanun päälle. Toista sama verhoilukankaan kanssa: niitti keskelle ja pingotus sopivan jämäkästi vastakkaiselta puolelta. Siistin reunan aikaansaamiseksi taita kankaan reuna kerran ennen nitomista. Niittaa ensin kaikki reunat noin 10cm välein ja lisää väleihin niittejä, kunnes niitä on noin 1- 0,5cm välein. Tarkastele kankaan pingotusta koko ajan. Kankaan pitäisi olla niin kireä, ettei siihen jää kädellä painaessa ryppyjä tai painaumia, mutta ei myöskään superkireä. // First you cut a right size piece from the upholstery fabric. You can use the original upholstery fabric pieces as a guide. I used batting under the fabric for extra softness. First put one stable to the center of one side. Tighten the batting from the other side and staple. Do the same for the other two sides. Attach the batting with a few staples 5-10cm or so apart, keeping the batting tight as you go. Cut the extra batting away. Staple the fabric like the batting. To get a clean edge, fold the fabric edge under before stapling. Add staples 5-10cm or so apart, keeping the fabric tight. Then fill the gaps, until there are staples 1-0,5 cm apart. Kulmista leikataan ensin ylimääräinen kangas pois ja niitataan kiinni. Kannattaa olla supervarovainen leikkausvaiheessa! Jos leikkaat liikaa, ei sitä pysty korjaamaan. Itsellä kävi melkein vahinko kun leikkasin yhdestä kulmasta vähän liikaa, mutta onneksi sain kyseisen kulman silti juuri ja juuri viimeisteltyä, niin ettei koko osan verhoilu mennyt pilalle. // Cut the extra fabric from the corners before stapling. Be super careful not to cut too much! If you cut too much, it's impossible to fix. This almost happened to me, yikes! Fortunately there was just enough fabric to fix my error. Viimeistellyn ilmeen kulmiin saa, kun avonaisen reunan ompelee käsin verhoiluneulan avulla kiinni piilo-ompeleella. Piilo-ommel tehdään pienillä pistoilla puolelta toiselle niin, että kun lanka kiristetään, pistot katoavat näkyvistä. Loistava keino saada viimeistelty ilme verhoiluun. // Use an invisible ladder stitch to finish the corners to get a more professional look. Sohvan kaikki isot osat verhoiltiin suunnilleen tällä samalla periaatteella. Käsinojissa olikin sitten enemmän haastetta. Käsinojat verhoilin aivan eri tavalla kuin alunperäisessä verhoilussa. Aluksi toivoin, että olisin voinut poistaa käsinojan ulkonevan palan kokonaan, mutta se olikin naulattu ja liimattu kiinni. Nyt olen tyytyväinen ettei niitä voinut irrottaa, sillä tykkään käsinoijien muodosta tosi paljon. Idea käsinojien verhoiluun lähti, kun löysin kuvan tästä sohvasta netistä: // I used this same principle to reupholster the other big pieces of the sofa. The armrests were a different story. I reupholstered the arms differently than they were originally. I got the idea when I saw this picture in the Internet: Ennen uudelleenverhoilua irroitin vanhan vaahtomuovin käsinojista, sillä siinä oli käsinojien verhoilunapeista syvät painaumat. Oli helpompaa irroittaa vanha vaahtomuovi ja käyttää uutta tilalla. Vaahtomuovin kiinnitin niittien avulla käsinojiin ja leikkasin puukolla ylimääräiset reunat pois. Päälle tuli vielä kerros levyvanua ennen verhoilukangasta. Vaahtomuovin voi liimata kiinni vaahtomuoville tarkoitetulla spray-liimalla, mutta en itse kokenut sitä tarpeelliseksi. // Before reupholstering the arms I removed the old foam from the arms. It had deep holes from the tufting buttons that were on the sofa arms before. I stapled the foam in place and used a knife to trim the extra away. You can also use glue, but I didn't find it necessary. I also added a layer of batting over the foam before the fabric. Käsinojissa ei ole ommeltu yhtään kangaspalaa ennen nitomista, vaan kaikki on kiinnitetty niiteillä paikalleen. Näyttää vaikealta, mutta on oikeastaan paljon helpompaa kuin osien ompeleminen yhteen ennen paikalleen kiinnittämistä. Pitää vain huomioida tarkkaan kankaan suunta ja että kangas pingottuu sopivasti. // You can see that nothing was sewed together, everything was attached with staples. It looks difficult but it's actually much easier than sewing the pieces together before stapling. You just need to pay attention on the direction and tension of the fabric. Kapeaa pahvista leikattua nauhaa voi käyttää apuna nitomiseen, kun kankaan reuna pitää kiinnittää, mutta niittejä ei saa näkyä. Kaarevan reunan kanssa kankaan suunnan kanssa piti olla tarkkana. // A narrow piece of upholstery cardboard helps to get a clean edge without the staples showing. I had to be careful with the direction of the fabric with the curved edge. Käsinojien auki jäävät etu- ja takaosa viimeistellään verhoilluilla paneeleilla, jotka voi tehdä itse. Niihin tarvitaan lattapäisiä pieniä nauloja, jotka painetaan pahvista leikatun muodon reunoihin, noin 1cm päästä reunasta ja noin 2-3cm välein. Naulankantojen päälle liimataan pala vanulevyä ja kangas, jossa on 1cm vara. Kankaan reuna taitetaan toiselle puolelle ja liimataan kuumaliimalla kiinni. Valmiit paneelit naputellaan varovasti kumivasaralla paikoilleen. // Upholstered panels are used to cover the exposed edges. You can make them yourself. You need flat head nails that are pushed through a right size cardboard shape every 2-3cm, about 1cm from the edge. Batting and fabric are glued over the nail head side. The edges of the fabric are folded and hot glued on the other side. The finished panels are carefully hammered in place with a rubber mallet. Kun kaikki valmiiksi verhoillut osat on kiinnitetty uudestaan kiinni toisiinsa, sohvan runko on valmis! Vielä siis jäljellä tyynyjen päällisten ompelu. Siitä tulee vielä yksi erillinen postaus. // When all the upholstered pieces are attached together, the sofa frame is finished! Next up: sewing the covers for the sofa pillows. I will make it into a separate post.
We are finally getting to the stage of building where I’m thinking less about the guts of the house and more about the pretty things. Hardware on cabinets, rugs, curtains, and fabrics are where my mind wanders to these days. For the past few weeks I’ve been spending most of my “stuck on the couch breastfeeding”...
I'm sure you've seen some of our very own ModHomeEcTeacher's delicious upholstery posts by now. She's a wiz to be sure, but if the idea of ripping fabric
I don't exactly have $$ to buy the couch of my dreams, but lucky for me, my husband and I were able to reupholster this beauty. We found a living room set that included a large sofa, love seat, chair and a half, and an ottoman for $50. Engineer hubby and I totally transformed the sofa AND an ottoman for $200 (ottoman will be coming soon). We are going to go through the steps of stripping the fabric off of the couch and reupholstering the couch. I promise you this is the same exact couch. This proves that almost anything can become something new. Use your imagination when finding the right couch. The diamond in the rough is usually really rough at first. So, look past dingy, pastel colored, floral fabrics and look at the general shape and structure of the piece to find the right candidate for reupholstering. Here are some things to consider when looking for the right couch: Step back and look at the couch to determine how many "sections" you will be reupholstering. The "visible" sections for my couch were arms, back of back rest, front of back rest, sides (under arms), front bottom, pillows, and cushions. There were two "hidden" sections which included under the couch and under the seat cushions. Typical upholstery fabric is sold on a large bolt that is about 54" wide. Knowing this may help you estimate how much fabric you will need per section. Cost to reupholster. A sofa can take anywhere between 12-20 yards of fabric depending on its size and shape. Keep that in mind when choosing fabric; things can get pricey. We used 16 yards on our couch. Is the structure sound? Can I reuse the tack strips or any upholstery hardware? Will the feet need to be replaced or renovated? Are the foam cushions worn out or do they have plenty of body left? Is this couch more comfortable than a $200 couch I could buy new? Will any odors remain once the fabric and batting have been removed? Our couch was easy to reupholster because the seat cushions and the pillows were detached. I imagine it would be harder to reupholster a couch that had cushions and pillows sewn onto the body of the couch, but I'm sure it can be done with a little determination. Couch Heavy Duty Upholstery Fabric Inexpensive fabric to use in "unseen" places, i.e. muslin Staples Cereal Box Cardboard (we will explain later) Batting Spray Glue Zippers, thread, or anything else needed to sew cushion covers Any replacement items for worn out material, i.e. foam or feet Pliers Staple Gun Hammer Sewing Machine Fabric Scissors Measuring Tape Any other job specific tools We went to Home Fabric in Orem, Utah to find our fabric. Here's the criteria we used to find the right fabric... No continuous pattern. Patterns, such as stripes, can be difficult to line up during reupholstering and may require more material to make patterns align. Fabric with a sturdy weave. This may go without saying, but make sure to get a durable fabric that is meant for furniture if you want your legacy to last. How much? Remember the sections I talked about? Measure the length of each section and add a few inches extra on each end so you have enough fabric to work with. It would be bad to not have enough, so measure a little generously. We didn't have to worry about the width since 54" wide fabric fit each section on our couch perfectly. As I mentioned above, we used 16 yards on our large sofa. Price point. We are on a budget and the fabric had to fit within that budget, so we didn't waste time looking at fabric above a certain price point. Our fabric was about $9 a yard. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of the fabric on the sofa before is was ripped off. Hubby was anxious to get going and started ripping off fabric, batting, and foam, so to give you an idea of what it looked like with it's original fabric, here is the love seat. Here is the sofa all stripped down with the seat cushions and pillows set aside. Engineer hubby ripped off the fabric, the batting from the whole couch which he thought was holding in all the odors. He also removed the foam from the arms. When we realized that foam is really expensive, we salvaged the original foam and "Lysol-ed" it liberally ;) All that remained of the couch at the end of Step 4 was the wood structure, cardboard on the arms, springs, the blue mesh material covering the springs, foam (foam not pictured), and metal tack strips. In our case, the next step was to put the foam back on the arms. Foam only covered the front, sides, and tops of the arms. Sadly, I don't have a picture of this so just use your imagination. I did however attach a photo of a roll of foam you can purchase at your local Joanns. It's called High Density Urethane Foam 1"x24"x30". Remember, any staple dimples or irregular shapes in the foam may show through when you cover it with new batting and fabric, so use spray glue on the back and try to staple it nice and evenly on the edges. New batting stapled into place. You will notice some dimples caused by the staples, but these were not too sever and were easily smoothed out once the fabric was stretched over it. We used about 3 packages of 8oz batting that had been pre-cut for a queen size quilt. (10oz would have been better but it wasn't in stock). You can buy it at Walmart. Roughly cut it into pieces that cover each section of the couch. Sections meaning, front of arms, around each arm, front of couch, and back of couch. Just go for it, it doesn't have to be perfect. Under side of couch Notice the feet have been removed. Also notice all the yucky stuff that came out of the couch when it was stripped. Among the "treasure" was 75 cents, "the lost sock", cocoa puffs, the top hat from a Monopoly game, and much more. We first attached muslin over the seat cushion springs/base (see finished product below). Locate areas on the frame of the couch where you can staple the muslin. Cut muslin to fit. Be generous and give yourself plenty of fabric to work with. Use the cardboard trick, described two paragraphs below, along the front edge of the couch in order to hide staples and give a uniform edge. Fold the muslin over the stapled cardboard strip and tuck under the arm and back. Pull the muslin tight and staple to the frame. You will be working under the couch at this point in oder to staple the muslin to the frame. Drape a large piece of fabric over the arm of the couch and staple in the joint. Notice how we have a lot of extra fabric hanging off the front and back of the arm. That fabric will be folded into a fan later on. Use the cardboard trick to attach the fabric to the front of the couch. The cardboard makes it so you don't see any staples and you will see how. Place the fabric "right side" to the muslin and a couple inches away from the edge of the couch. Cut a few strips of cardboard (cereal boxes work great) about 1/2" wide and as long as the couch goes. Staple through the cardboard and the edge of the fabric into the wood frame. Flip the fabric over and you have a nice, clean, finished look for the front part of your couch. Staple the fabric to the bottom. Wrap and staple the fabric around the sides of the couch about 5 inches. Notice the front bottom piece. It is tightly secured with staples, no raw edges showing. The back fabric piece is just draped over the back for fun at this point; the next step is to work on the arms again. Arms. This is the trickiest part. Start from the outside of the arm and work your way up, around, and down creating small folds. Staple as you go; you can always pull the staples out and readjust. When you get close to the end, fold the fabric under to give it a clean finish and staple in place. Don't staple on the front of the couch, just pull the fabric tight and staple it in place on the sides of the couch. The fold at the bottom of the arm should cover the fold you made earlier on the front bottom piece. Trim away bulky fabric as needed. Notice where we stapled. All these staples will be covered by the side fabric piece. Move to the back of the arm and follow the same process creating a fan with the extra fabric. We applied a little bit of super glue behind the small fan folds to keep them in place. So far so good four months and three kids later! Here is an overview of what you will be doing to attach the side piece. Notice the order. First, use the cardboard trick to attach fabric under the arm curve. Second, staple fabric around the back of the couch and staple in place. Third, use a tack strip to secure fabric in place on opposite side. Here is a picture of a tack strip. This little strip of metal allows us to create a finished edge much like the cardboard trick. **Here is a closer view of how to attach the tack strip. Along the edge, push tack strip through the back of the fabric. Fold it over so that the back of the tack strip is against the back of the fabric. Hammer the fabric and tack strip into place along the side. Wrap and staple bottom edge of fabric onto the couch. This is what the side should look like finished. Attach fabric to the "front" of the back rest. Use cardboard trick to staple fabric in place along the top of the back frame. Flip fabric over to the front of the couch, pull it tight, tuck in bottom, and staple to frame. Make sure the "right side" of your fabric is showing once you flip it over. Fold under raw edges on the sides and staple to frame from behind the couch. Add back piece. Use the cardboard trick along to top of the back. Flip fabric over. Begin working on the bottom. Wrap bottom fabric under couch and staple. The staples under the couch will be covered by muslin later. Then work on the sides of the back piece using tack strips. All staples should be hidden. Here is a closer view of the back rest so you can see more clearly what we did and where we used the cardboard trick. Notice that the "front" back piece actually wraps over the top and down the back of the couch a few inches. Then the "back" back piece is stapled on top of the "front" back piece. Attach the muslin to the "unseen" underside of the couch. No need to make it look pretty. Just cut a piece to fit the bottom and just staple it on. Start on one side and work your way around. Then attach the feet. Here are the feet Engineer Hubby designed and made since we didn't like the original feet. We really liked the blonde look, but you could always stain them. We added the center block for extra support. Wrap cushions in new batting as pictured. Use spray glue to secure the batting to the foam cushion. Make a cushion cover. I used THIS tutorial. Make Pillow Covers. I made simple envelope pillow covers so I didn't have to sew on a zipper. I used THIS tutorial. I didn't want the corners of my pillows to poke out, so I just sewed them down into the form. All done! I promise this look isn't too hard to achieve. Just have patience and always over estimate on your fabric so you have enough. Stephanie & Engineer Hubby
Refresh your room for Spring with these simple chair covers - it's easier than you might think, and saves your budget too!
With basic sewing skills, you can master these common upholstery techniques.
This is a gold jacquard fabric with a beautiful floral embossed design. It is designed specifically for making dress, curtains, upholstery, or any other high-end textile project. Width:55inches/140cm Weight: 250g/m² The listing is for 1 yard, for more quantity, we will send you an uncut piece. If purchase more, please feel free to contact us for a wholesale price❤ Disclaimer of Photos: The photo may differ from the actual product due to reproduction limitations of the photograph and limitations of viewing photos at different resolutions, hue, brightness, contrast, and other screen variations. Due to these limitations, photos may not provide a perfect match to the actual product received. Please convo us if you have any questions. Enjoy shopping : )
