My Aunt Nina’s grandmother, Liza from Karabakh, used to make this using mountain spring water, and the taste of those pickles was incomparable. Here, beetroot is often added to Armenian pickles for color, which is similar to how they're made in the Middle East. These pickles are delicious and we eat them in the summer and in winter. You can buy horseradish leaves and dill stalks in bunches from Polish delis specially for pickling, but if you can’t find them (or the blackcurrant and cherry leaves), just substitute with some spices or aromatics that you like (celery would be great) or simply leave them out. Recipe from Mamushka: Recipes from Ukraine & beyond by Olia Hercules. Photography by Kris Kirkham, published by Mitchell Beazley, £25, www.octopusbooks.co.uk.