It was in Australia — in Melbourne to be precise — that, under the auspices of George Calombaris, I ate the most fabulous chips: they’d been fried in garlicky oil and came sprinkled with dried mountain oregano and feta. It’s a sensational combo. Now, if you felt like doing some deep-frying, you could certainly make a panful of Tuscan Fries giving them this particular Greek spin by replacing the thyme, rosemary and sage with fresh oregano and scattering feta over them to serve, but for ease — and equal deliciousness — this is how I proceed. I chop unpeeled potatoes into small cubes, toss them in a shallow roasting tin — the shallowness is essential — with olive oil, garlic and dried oregano, and when they emerge from the oven burnished and crisp, I crumble feta over them and — should the season allow — and strew with fresh oregano. No deep-frying involved: deep happiness achieved. For US cup measures, use the toggle at the top of the ingredients list.