Less “kiss me quick”, more “massage me holistically”, Hove is where Brighton goes when it wants to stretch out a bit and be kind to itself. It’s a short seafront stroll from the wreckage of the West Pier to Hove Lawns, but as the crowds thin it’s hard not to breathe a sigh of upmarket relief. The atmosphere turns from seaside to coastal, the beach dotted with hardy swimmers, lunch-hour readers and ball-chasing cavapoos instead of boozy day-trippers. Inland, Hove is home to tree-lined Regency