I am finding there is a lot of confusion, and mixed up definitions of the numbers involved in the Level System coding on the sides of boxes and within the Level System. I'd like to clear up and clarify some of them. First of all the Level System which is a system: defined "by numbers" is actually meant to be made "easier" by using those numbers. There are many times I feel they have just traded numbers for Letters and it truly hasn't helped much of anything....but I still teach it and feel it is the best tool we have for defining a 'system' for calculating hair color to be used on your hair in the correct manner. It is referred to as the Level System of Hair coloring, beginning at Level 1 (Black) --- all the way to Level 12 (platinum)....with all other colors sprinkled and spread throughout the middle of the two. Here is the chart of a level 1 thru a Level 12 (after high-lift was added to the system) Level 1 being Black and Level 12 being Platinum colored hair with all the other colors in between in a gradual scale of dark to light, or light to dark whichever way you choose to look at it. { this is a Wella chart -- Wella runs a Level darker which means a Level 2 is a Level 1 - basically} The same holds true in the Tones. Do you understand the difference between the two? Levels are the lightness and darkness of hair color and Tones which are created by the way light falls on a object. Hair color tones can be put into three standard categories: warm, cool, or neutral. When I discuss color, or if you are choosing a color from a swatch book, the tones are often indicated with letters.......... standard examples of color tones are: N = 0 = Neutral. Neither warm, nor cool. B = 7 = Brown (neither warm or cool) Cool Tones A: Ash............ 1 B: Beige......... 4 B: Blue........... 2 G: Green ....... V: Violet ........ 6 B: Brown........ 7 Warm Tones C: Copper ( in the red series colors) OR Pearl..... 8 ( pearl means blue-violet based ) G: Gold ........ 3 R: Red ......... 5 ( or Blorange) my own assessment of a bleached blond that pulls orangish (not all company's use the exact same numbers for tones, but I find that each year they are all conforming more and more towards Wella who is really the Grandaddy of all hair color! Lets review what a few box ends look like........... so you understand this a little clearer Here is Wella Koleston Perfect tube & the side of the box. This color is used for excellent gray coverage, beautiful brow color and an all around beautiful hair color line. I recommend it for hard to cover gray and for battling the Blorange tones, none of us like ( the Matt series /2). Its the only line that does have a MATT series. The number on the left side of the 'dash' or 'slash' (EITHER ONE)..... is the Level of color that is in that tube of color. So this tube of color is a Level 6 ....( all colors & tones in this tube are a Level 5 because of Wella running a Level darker than all other lines) The numbers on the right side of the dash or slash are...........the Tonal qualities within this tube of color. The one closest to the dash is the strongest , the next one being the lesser of the 2 tonal qualities. Therefore in the above pictured tube is a Level 6 ( my favorite shade of brunette) with a double shot of just STRAIGHT Brown tone. So no tones, either way no cool no warm....just straight up brown-brown-brown! Unfortunately hair color has many gray areas that need to be learned by experience....so never expect it to be black and white I'm afraid. Here is the color the above tube will be............. once applied and dried: This tube from Wella's line Illumina color is listed as a 5/81............... So, for this color inside the tube is a Level 5 (I've found that Illumina, runs - only - about 1/2 Level darker) and the tonal qualities are an "8" which is PEARL in this instance (Pearl has always been referred to as Blue Violet based which would fight any orange/blorange/gold & Brass Tones). Very handy for pretty much all of you! Then Ash which also fights the same tones, so this would be a very beautiful color for those of you with color that is stubborn in fighting those undertones. After its been a little while since coloring your hair -- does your hair pull any of those tones: blorange orange brass gold if so then this is your color. You would want to add it to an appropriate Neutral if gray is also your enemy. This tube of color would look similar to this photo: The last tube is Color Touch 8/81 : Color Touch is a Level 8 - 8 = Pearl Tone 1 = Ash Tone This is a great Toner in a Level 8 (7!) use either a 6 or 13 Volume which you would apply to a blond with brass or Blorange tones to it to BOTH............... remove the annoying Tones and to add shine and strength to blonde's which would look like this photo:
