It's been one week since I finished Japan's Kumano Kodo Iseji Route: the thousand-year-old pilgrimage route through Mie Prefecture. This two-week hike was simultaneously the hardest thing I've ever done, and yet also one of the most rewarding. 170 kilometers. 2 mountain peaks. 18 mountain passes. 7 fantastic shrines. 5 steamy onsens. Countless tiny towns. Fantastic meals. Sleeping on tatami mat floors. Waving Konichiwa to everyone we passed. How do I even begin to describe this experience? Well... I guess we can start at the beginning. Am I Really Cut Out For This? Let's be honest. Heading into my 2-week Kumano Kodo Iseji