Shannon offers a tutorial on how to adjust a “menswear” button-front shirt for a full chest and hips.

My loves, this will be a long post, and possibly a post that is not for you, but it could be useful to someone you know. If that is the case, please pass it on to them. You may have read before about us offering binders to trans masculine and non-binary community members. We've been working on improving our patterns in the background for a year or so and we have one that we are very happy with. We make it in three levels of compression. We are releasing the pattern for our most sturdy binder for free. We feel that this is a binder is safe and comfortable to wear and not too sweaty. My hope is that those with crafty parents, grandparents, friends, or a diy spirit will have a starting point for making their own safe and affordable binders. This pattern is free and I would encourage people to make binders for others, if you want to sell the binders themselves, go ahead. I hope that you will share the pattern with anyone who asks. This blog post will serve as my first pass at instructions for the construction of the binder. The pattern is available for free here: https://ureshiidesign.ca/binder-free-sewing-pattern-download/. When you check out with this listing it will not ask for payment, but it will ask for your billing address, we will not use it. If you would like us to make one for you you can order it here: https://ureshiidesign.ca/crop-tank/ Choose "Everyday Jersey" in the colour of your choice, and "V-Neck binder" The fabrics we use are a 66% bamboo / 28% cotton / 6% spandex jersey (Weight: 200 gsm / 5.9 oz.sq yd) You could use other rayon/spandex fabrics such as 95% bamboo 5% spandex in a similar weight for similar results. The second fabric is a "power mesh" that is not super powerful. The one we are using is 83% Nylon / 17% Spandex. (Weight: 165 gsm / 4.9 oz.sq yd) It has some drape and significantly more stretch in one direction. It is not as stiff as what is seen in shapewear, more like something that would be used to put sheer panels in leggings or tops. From here on out is the instruction portion of the post. This is my first attempt, your frustrated messages will (I assume) lead to edits and improvements. I will also post a youtube video soon, and post it HERE. I just discovered that the photos to go along with this post are of an earlier version of this binder. The stable layer topstitched on in the first step is not shown. Don't panic. 1) Print, assemble, and cut out your pattern pieces. Cut your fabric pieces paying particular attention to the direction of the greatest stretch. 2) Place your mesh "stable layer" pieces over their corresponding mesh "underlays" matching up at the armpits. Pin your stable layer to your mesh underlay and use a zig zag or three step zig zag to topstitch along the top and bottom of the stable layer. If you are having trouble with stitch formation, make sure you are using a new "universal" needle, or if you are still having trouble try smaller size or a microtex/sharp needle in one of the smaller sizes. 3) Place your overlay pieces right sides together and stitch the shoulder seams. Place your underlay (jersey) pieces right sides together. Place your mesh underlays on either sides of your jersey underlays, necklines matching. Stitch the shoulder seams of all underlays together. (4 layers) 4) Open up your overlays and lay them out so that right sides are facing up. Open up your underlays at the shoulder and lay them on top of your overlays right sides of the jersey fabric facing down. Your mesh underlays should be on top. Stitch around your neckline. 5) Flip your binder so that the whole garment is right sides out, laid out as before. Take the outer shoulder seams from one side and wrap them around the opposite shoulder. This will mean that you have one unsewn armhole inside the other armhole/shoulder. Pin from armpit to armpit on the outer side and stitch all layers. After you've done this, pulling the wrapped armpit out of the completed one will result in your right sides out binder laid flat, with one finished armhole. Now take the unfinished armhole and wrap the shoulder seams around the finished side. Pin from armpit to armpit and stitch. Pull through and do a happy dance. I hope. It might be better to just watch this part on video a few times! 6) Pinch the armpits of one side together to complete the armhole. Find your jersey overlays, they are one inch longer, make sure they are right sides together. Fold them to one side of the armpit and all other layers to the other side. Pin and fold at the armpit fold taking care to arrange your seam allowances as best you can. At the hem of your top pin the bottoms of the outerlays together. Pin the bottoms of your underlays to the overlays one inch from the bottom. Pin along both side seams distributing any weird fullness as evenly as possible. Be sure to either backstitch or leave serger tails at the armpit to pull in later. I find it easier to start at the armpit and stitch downwards toward the hem. 7) Flip your binder so that right sides are out. Fold your overlay one inch up over your underlays and stitch the hem. Use a coverstitch, zig zag, or three step zig zag to maintain stretch 8) Use a bar tack to secure your binder underarms, this will be the main stress point in the garment. 9) Either put it on and do a happy dance, or put it on and try not to be mortified that it is so wrong. You may prefer to go up or down a size, or change some element that doesn't work for you. This is hard, take the next step. Once you have the perfect garment in your hands it will have been worth it. Notes: I am very privileged to have the three machines I'll be using in the youtube video and in these instructions. If you only have a home sewing machine you should be able to complete all of these steps with a zig zag or stretch stitch. It is never a waste of time to try a few different stitches on scraps and haul on them to see if the stitches hold. I will make further videos with more limited machines to demonstrate the options. We don't tend to make standard sizes for any garments over a certain size, we always draft to measurements from there out. If you need a larger size than what we have available here, please fill in our measurement form and I will custom draft something for you. I will share the pattern here with notes on the sizing and preferences. In this way we can build a library of plus sized options, and possibly learn something. Feel free to get in touch if there is something missing here, I'm proud of you for even reading this far. -Emily

I made my own binder today and it was SO EASY (and cheap.. only $10!) so I thought I’d share! Works well and is so BREATHABLE and comfy due to the mesh in the back. Make one for every day of the wee…

Hey, I'm thendyn, and I make and sell custom-fitted binders. What this means is that I will make a binder to fit anyone, and now I've made a tutorial so that you can make one for yourself! The binders...

My loves, this will be a long post, and possibly a post that is not for you, but it could be useful to someone you know. If that is the case, please pass it on to them. You may have read before about us offering binders to trans masculine and non-binary community members. We've been working on improving our patterns in the background for a year or so and we have one that we are very happy with. We make it in three levels of compression. We are releasing the pattern for our most sturdy binder for free. We feel that this is a binder is safe and comfortable to wear and not too sweaty. My hope is that those with crafty parents, grandparents, friends, or a diy spirit will have a starting point for making their own safe and affordable binders. This pattern is free and I would encourage people to make binders for others, if you want to sell the binders themselves, go ahead. I hope that you will share the pattern with anyone who asks. This blog post will serve as my first pass at instructions for the construction of the binder. The pattern is available for free here: https://ureshiidesign.ca/binder-free-sewing-pattern-download/. When you check out with this listing it will not ask for payment, but it will ask for your billing address, we will not use it. If you would like us to make one for you you can order it here: https://ureshiidesign.ca/crop-tank/ Choose "Everyday Jersey" in the colour of your choice, and "V-Neck binder" The fabrics we use are a 66% bamboo / 28% cotton / 6% spandex jersey (Weight: 200 gsm / 5.9 oz.sq yd) You could use other rayon/spandex fabrics such as 95% bamboo 5% spandex in a similar weight for similar results. The second fabric is a "power mesh" that is not super powerful. The one we are using is 83% Nylon / 17% Spandex. (Weight: 165 gsm / 4.9 oz.sq yd) It has some drape and significantly more stretch in one direction. It is not as stiff as what is seen in shapewear, more like something that would be used to put sheer panels in leggings or tops. From here on out is the instruction portion of the post. This is my first attempt, your frustrated messages will (I assume) lead to edits and improvements. I will also post a youtube video soon, and post it HERE. I just discovered that the photos to go along with this post are of an earlier version of this binder. The stable layer topstitched on in the first step is not shown. Don't panic. 1) Print, assemble, and cut out your pattern pieces. Cut your fabric pieces paying particular attention to the direction of the greatest stretch. 2) Place your mesh "stable layer" pieces over their corresponding mesh "underlays" matching up at the armpits. Pin your stable layer to your mesh underlay and use a zig zag or three step zig zag to topstitch along the top and bottom of the stable layer. If you are having trouble with stitch formation, make sure you are using a new "universal" needle, or if you are still having trouble try smaller size or a microtex/sharp needle in one of the smaller sizes. 3) Place your overlay pieces right sides together and stitch the shoulder seams. Place your underlay (jersey) pieces right sides together. Place your mesh underlays on either sides of your jersey underlays, necklines matching. Stitch the shoulder seams of all underlays together. (4 layers) 4) Open up your overlays and lay them out so that right sides are facing up. Open up your underlays at the shoulder and lay them on top of your overlays right sides of the jersey fabric facing down. Your mesh underlays should be on top. Stitch around your neckline. 5) Flip your binder so that the whole garment is right sides out, laid out as before. Take the outer shoulder seams from one side and wrap them around the opposite shoulder. This will mean that you have one unsewn armhole inside the other armhole/shoulder. Pin from armpit to armpit on the outer side and stitch all layers. After you've done this, pulling the wrapped armpit out of the completed one will result in your right sides out binder laid flat, with one finished armhole. Now take the unfinished armhole and wrap the shoulder seams around the finished side. Pin from armpit to armpit and stitch. Pull through and do a happy dance. I hope. It might be better to just watch this part on video a few times! 6) Pinch the armpits of one side together to complete the armhole. Find your jersey overlays, they are one inch longer, make sure they are right sides together. Fold them to one side of the armpit and all other layers to the other side. Pin and fold at the armpit fold taking care to arrange your seam allowances as best you can. At the hem of your top pin the bottoms of the outerlays together. Pin the bottoms of your underlays to the overlays one inch from the bottom. Pin along both side seams distributing any weird fullness as evenly as possible. Be sure to either backstitch or leave serger tails at the armpit to pull in later. I find it easier to start at the armpit and stitch downwards toward the hem. 7) Flip your binder so that right sides are out. Fold your overlay one inch up over your underlays and stitch the hem. Use a coverstitch, zig zag, or three step zig zag to maintain stretch 8) Use a bar tack to secure your binder underarms, this will be the main stress point in the garment. 9) Either put it on and do a happy dance, or put it on and try not to be mortified that it is so wrong. You may prefer to go up or down a size, or change some element that doesn't work for you. This is hard, take the next step. Once you have the perfect garment in your hands it will have been worth it. Notes: I am very privileged to have the three machines I'll be using in the youtube video and in these instructions. If you only have a home sewing machine you should be able to complete all of these steps with a zig zag or stretch stitch. It is never a waste of time to try a few different stitches on scraps and haul on them to see if the stitches hold. I will make further videos with more limited machines to demonstrate the options. We don't tend to make standard sizes for any garments over a certain size, we always draft to measurements from there out. If you need a larger size than what we have available here, please fill in our measurement form and I will custom draft something for you. I will share the pattern here with notes on the sizing and preferences. In this way we can build a library of plus sized options, and possibly learn something. Feel free to get in touch if there is something missing here, I'm proud of you for even reading this far. -Emily

This digital drafting tutorial guides you to create a custom chest binder based on your own measurements. The easy to follow tutorial includes instructions for how to create a crop top length binder with several style and finishing options. The two binder styles addressed in the tutorial are most similar in fit to Underworks and GC2B binders. An add-on for full length binders will become available in the future. This pattern is an Instant Download, which means it will be available to you as soon as your payment is made. You can find your Download under Your Account, in the Purchases & Reviews section or through an email sent by etsy after purchase. Supplies needed and recommended fabric: Duoplex Binder This binder style is lighter weight and more comfortable. It may not have the same binding effect as the powernet binder. Required materials: duoplex fabric, lycra/spandex fabric with 50-70% stretch ALL ways OR medium weight powernet, thread (maxilock stretch recommended for serger), stretch needles appropriate for your machine, sewing machine OR serger, tracing paper, pencil scissors/rotary blade, pins, double-eyed needle, coverstitch machine (optional) Firm Powernet Binder This binder is extremely effective at binding. It may be less comfortable and hotter to wear than the duoplex binder. Required materials: firm powernet fabric, thread (maxilock stretch recommended for serger), stretch needles appropriate for your machine, sewing machine OR serger, tracing paper, pencil, scissors/rotary blade, pins, double-eyed needle, coverstitch machine (optional) Fabric Descriptions Duoplex: This fabric is super versatile and strong. It’s typically reversible- shiny on one side and matte on the other. It offers about 5% stretch one-way and is super soft! This fabric is typically offered by lingerie and bra fabric suppliers. The tutorial includes a recommended online source for this fabric available in the US. If you are aware of other resources outside of the US for duoplex, please let us know! We would love to spread the knowledge to other makers. Firm Powernet: In order to achieve successful binding with the firm powernet binder you must source the correct type of powernet, which can be tricky. This powernet has about 30-50% stretch in all directions, and my preferred source is 6.4 oz/square yard. Powernet with a greater amount of stretch and lighter in weight will not achieve the same binding effect. This fabric is typically offered by lingerie and bra fabric suppliers. The tutorial includes a recommended online source for this fabric available in the US. If you are aware of other resources outside of the US for firm powernet, please let us know! We would love to spread the knowledge to other makers. Medium Weight Powernet: When using this powernet for the back of the duoplex binder, a powernet with 50-70% stretch is acceptable. This type of powernet is often more readily available and accessible in fabric stores. PDF patterns cannot be returned or refunded. Please do not share this pattern with others, printed or digitally. Items handmade using this tutorial cannot be sold.

I made my own binder today and it was SO EASY (and cheap.. only $10!) so I thought I’d share! Works well and is so BREATHABLE and comfy due to the mesh in the back. Make one for every day of the wee…

This digital drafting tutorial guides you to create a custom chest binder based on your own measurements. The easy to follow tutorial includes instructions for how to create a crop top length binder with several style and finishing options. The two binder styles addressed in the tutorial are most similar in fit to Underworks and GC2B binders. An add-on for full length binders will become available in the future. This pattern is an Instant Download, which means it will be available to you as soon as your payment is made. You can find your Download under Your Account, in the Purchases & Reviews section or through an email sent by etsy after purchase. Supplies needed and recommended fabric: Duoplex Binder This binder style is lighter weight and more comfortable. It may not have the same binding effect as the powernet binder. Required materials: duoplex fabric, lycra/spandex fabric with 50-70% stretch ALL ways OR medium weight powernet, thread (maxilock stretch recommended for serger), stretch needles appropriate for your machine, sewing machine OR serger, tracing paper, pencil scissors/rotary blade, pins, double-eyed needle, coverstitch machine (optional) Firm Powernet Binder This binder is extremely effective at binding. It may be less comfortable and hotter to wear than the duoplex binder. Required materials: firm powernet fabric, thread (maxilock stretch recommended for serger), stretch needles appropriate for your machine, sewing machine OR serger, tracing paper, pencil, scissors/rotary blade, pins, double-eyed needle, coverstitch machine (optional) Fabric Descriptions Duoplex: This fabric is super versatile and strong. It’s typically reversible- shiny on one side and matte on the other. It offers about 5% stretch one-way and is super soft! This fabric is typically offered by lingerie and bra fabric suppliers. The tutorial includes a recommended online source for this fabric available in the US. If you are aware of other resources outside of the US for duoplex, please let us know! We would love to spread the knowledge to other makers. Firm Powernet: In order to achieve successful binding with the firm powernet binder you must source the correct type of powernet, which can be tricky. This powernet has about 30-50% stretch in all directions, and my preferred source is 6.4 oz/square yard. Powernet with a greater amount of stretch and lighter in weight will not achieve the same binding effect. This fabric is typically offered by lingerie and bra fabric suppliers. The tutorial includes a recommended online source for this fabric available in the US. If you are aware of other resources outside of the US for firm powernet, please let us know! We would love to spread the knowledge to other makers. Medium Weight Powernet: When using this powernet for the back of the duoplex binder, a powernet with 50-70% stretch is acceptable. This type of powernet is often more readily available and accessible in fabric stores. PDF patterns cannot be returned or refunded. Please do not share this pattern with others, printed or digitally. Items handmade using this tutorial cannot be sold.

Chest binding for the larger chested transman.... When it came to finding out about chest binding, it was while watching YouTube videos...

B.UR.SLF is the home of the original breathable chest binder and patter front chest binder for transgender, enby, gender nonconforming & cosplay communities.

Best Chest binders List that you are safe and breathable. So if you looking for Chest Binders for long-term use, then you get the accurate list.

The women’s undergarment called a “brassière” has been around since 1905 in the U.S. (1) and before 1912 in England (2). However, the first brassieres didn’t look anything like the garm…

There is a huge variety of binding methods. This however, has proven to be the most comfortable, cheapest and easiest for me. What you need: A pair of body-shaping granny-panties (compression...

We've got you covered.

This underbust corset sewing pattern is made for a male silhouette. I created this on a male mannequin. Fashion has no gender. The pattern is graded into EU size 44-58/ US size XXS-XL. Check out the size table on the photos for your size. The model on the photo who wears the corset is 189 cm tall and normally wears size L-XL in Tops. The pattern has a lace up back side which is adjustable and makes it wearable for multiple body sizes. The instruction includes a detailed way with photos. In the instruction i described the way without using bias tape, but you can also close the lower hemline with biastape. This unique pattern includes a PDF sewing pattern for this corset top and a sewing instruction. The pattern includes only one size (S-L/ seam allowance excluded). The corset is adjustable (lace up back loops) and its reversible. Very Easy to sew for your very own DIY project. Purchase Includes: Instruction PDF A4 and letter Sewing Pattern PDF printable Please contact the seller for other printing sizes. *This pattern is for personal use only. Not to be used for commercial purposes. Thank you for respecting the rights of the designer. Copyright 2020. Detailed instructions are included. If you have any questions, please feel free to reach out to me over Etsy and I will be sure to clear up your confusion. Required materials: - 1 Meter Wide Fabric & Matching Thread - Lining Fabric - interfacing/ vlieseline - (Bias Tape if preferred but not necessary) - (Boning if preferred) - Eyelets & Ribbon/String - Scissors & Pins - Ruler - Sewing Machine (obviously) Fabric Suggestions: 1) Medium-weight woven (non-stretch) fabric. The garment pictured above is some kind of microfibre, but this pattern will work with a wide variety of fabrics. 2) Lining Fabric: Opaque woven fabric such as cotton or polyester lining - non-stretch Printing: Print out at 100% scale on your home printer. Sewing Level: Intermediate Notes: *Please note that this purchase exclusively includes digital pattern files. No physical product is part of this offering.* *Intended solely for personal use; commercial application is prohibited.* *Digital purchases are exempt from returns or exchanges.* *Kindly be aware that minor deviations in the printed pattern may arise due to variations in printers, paper, and other factors.* *Given that I am not a professional seamstress, this pattern may differ from commonly available professionally designed sewing patterns.* For any inquiries, feel free to get in touch with us. Your creative journey is our priority.

Binding helps you deal with breasts that you want to hide, which can be a big relief. You might decide to bind your chest because you're transgender, genderqueer, non-binary, or playing a male character. While using a professional binder...

I've had my binder for a while now & every time I put it on, I'm still so thrilled & I'm just like "I FUCKING LOVE MY BINDER", so enjoy this collage I made using newspaper clippings & a photo of my binder~! Print measures 8.5" H x 11", printed on 110 lb matte cardstock. Will have white border around edge due & color may vary slightly from picture due to printing process! Stickers & magnets measure ~4" W & are hand cut!