Check out CapelinCrew's Sparkle style Three-layer outdoor lightweight windbreaker jacket, It is waterproof, moisture-permeable and water-repellent. Full fabric is laminated with water-resistant and moisture-permeable film, protecting the wearer from rain, snow, and cold wind; oatmeal, Aurora ...
Three Layer Cake Quilt This Three Layer Cake Quilt designed by Cozy Quilt Designs for Jordan Fabrics, The Tutorial is available for free. Full Post: Three Layer Cake Quilt Tutorial
Laugardalur Jacket in beige, made from breathable and water-resistant three-layer material with taped seams. The jacket has an adjustable hood and waist.
Check out CapelinCrew's Sparkle style Three-layer outdoor lightweight windbreaker jacket, It is waterproof, moisture-permeable and water-repellent. Full fabric is laminated with water-resistant and moisture-permeable film, protecting the wearer from rain, snow, and cold wind; oatmeal, Aurora ...
We were pleasantly surprised when the 3-layer magic cake turned out to be incredibly easy (just 7 ingredients!)—and downright delicious. Here's exactly how to bake a magic cake.
Pattern, designed by Daneila Stout of Cozy Quilt Designs, includes piecing instructions This pattern makes a variation of sizes from Lap to King. Pattern for 10" Squares
Laugardalur Jacket in beige, made from breathable and water-resistant three-layer material with taped seams. The jacket has an adjustable hood and waist.
Laugardalur Jacket in beige, made from breathable and water-resistant three-layer material with taped seams. The jacket has an adjustable hood and waist.
Okay, we’re drooling a little. Can you blame us? HERSHEY'S lovers, this one is for you.
One simple batter turns into a 3 layered cake with a top layer of sponge, a middle layer of custard and a fudge-like base. It's like....magic! Adapted from Magic Cake by Jo Cooks.
I have been working on this piece for lo, these many years, ever since I saw a photo on Pinterest with a draft that I still can't figure out. Perhaps it involves actually cutting out some of the warp blocks -- I'm talking scissors here -- to achieve the difference between the upper and lower sections of the fabric. I know how to design the top portion of the fabric and I know how to design the bottom portion of the fabric. But how do you weave a design that incorporates both? If you look closely, you will see at the top of the photo that some of the warp blocks just disappear. I love the ingenuity of this, but I'm not prepared to weave the many, many samples required to get it right. Around the same time, I came upon a couple of photos of work by the late, great Sandra Rude. Above scarves woven by Sandra Rude I spent a long time working out the threading, tieup, and treadling for the second piece and, long story short, here is what I came up with. It calls for 20 shafts. Although I have a loom with 32 shafts, I didn't want to replicate Rude's lovely design -- rather, I wanted to create one of my own, hopefully as interesting, but with a clearer pattern. So here is my version of a deflected-double-weave puzzle, calling for just 6 shafts: Here's what the full drawdown looks like: It looks quite simple to weave, right? Absolutely not, especially if you want to full the fabric, as I did (to reduce problems with the long floats and make the layers more distinct). I won't give you the long list of my missteps, but here's just one of the samples that didn't work. Note that there are two warp blocks on each selvage that appear to be spaced farther away from the other blocks. Actually, the sett is the same throughout: 18 epi for 18/2 merino. The problem lies with the process of fulling itself, which stretches the outer layers away from the others. Details: The warp blocks were 18 ends each. The sett was 2 ends per dent in a 12-dent reed for 9 dents and then leave 3 dents empty and repeat. I had to weave the weft blocks in a similar fashion, which called for a very careful, gentle beat. In my view, the above sample looks like some kind of netting. So I put on another, longer warp and decided that I would first create more samples and then weave a long scarf once I got it right. For this next set of samples, I spaced the two warp blocks on either selvage just one dent apart, leaving the remainder of the blocks 3 dents apart as I did with the first sample. Here's how that looked (you can't really see the blocks at the selvages -- but they're better, trust me): Better, yes, but still not what I was going for. I wanted a softer, flatter appearance, somewhere between the gauzy fabric you'd get if you didn't full it at all and the rope-like, corded fabric you see above. Finally it dawned on me: I needed to talk to a felter! Felters know a lot about what you might call the Goldlilocks Effect, making sure their fabric is not too stiff yet not too gauzy. And this is what fiber friends are for. So I called up Marie Brate, a talented felter in our guild, and asked her to give me some pointers. Marie brought over some bubble wrap and showed me how to keep the fabric flat and add just enough soapy water to encourage fulling. Marie Brate to the rescue! Sometimes I feel like it takes me a long time to figure things out -- to realize that this shawl called for skillful weaving AND skillful fulling. Prior to having this seemingly obvious insight, I would simply agitate a piece like this in the washing machine or by hand. I've learned that this creates a much denser look. There is a place for that, but not for a scarf that I want to wear. Turns out the finishing was harder than the weaving itself. It took hours, mainly because I wanted the details to be just right, which included separating every layer at every juncture by hand. I went through this entire process once and saw that the fabric truly needed more fulling. So I washed and fulled it again -- and then I had to separate each and every layer again, by hand. It was worth it, however, because I'm happy with the results. Thanks for reading!
Laugardalur Jacket in Black, made from breathable and water-resistant three-layer material with taped seams. Complete with adjustable hood and waist.
Laugardalur Jacket in beige, made from breathable and water-resistant three-layer material with taped seams. The jacket has an adjustable hood and waist.
The NIGHT DIVE® CABINA bottom features our highest rise, more lower tummy, front leg and hip coverage, with our unique three-layer construction for the ultimate smoothing fit. FEEL: Material has a buttery hand feel. Triple lined compression material. SUSTAINABILITY: Made from discarded fishing nets and other nylon waste, sustainably and ethically in Bali, Indonesia. FIT: Compression fabric offers a controlled fit that holds its shape and makes the perfect, secure fit. FIT TIP: Swimwear should fit snug when dry. Ethically Made Constructed in our recycled fabric OceanTex Created by the Female Founded brand NIGHT DIVE® Constructed in the most Environmentally Friendly way and with Zero Waste
The three-layer false doubleweave got another washing, this time with a gentler program (I did not want it to shrink further, I just wanted to get rid of the pressed look). Of course I forgot to measure brfore, but it can't have shrunk much (I think). However, the pressed end still showed as flatter than the rest. I think the mangled end reverted to "almost untreated". I let it dry out completely. It then had this, um, slightly hard hand that line-dried things can have. So it got re-moistened (not much!), put in the mesh bag again and was sent into the dryer for 10 minutes (no heat, of course). I think it improved the hand some, and it got more difficult to recognize the pressed end.. I also retrieved the "failure", wet it through, let it become almost dry amd mangled it properly. It came out flatter than before (of course!), but not as flat as the pressed variant. Gave both to several people for hadling, and again got most votes for the mangled. - my problem is that I still like the look of the un-treated/tumbled so much better! I also tried to fix a threading/treadling (for three layers) to make the right-hand edge easier to shuttle. For the "summer skies" it was easy - I just put the outer band on it's own shafts, and added treadles as needed. (I wove it on the dobby, but think it is easier to see what happens if shown in treadle mode). (I opted for the easiest lifting, which is why the white "back-and-forth" ends come out over the edge. After all, I had 24 ends/picks of the cotton, so it made quite a difference. What can I say - lazy?) So I tried to do something similar to the three-layer one. But I only have 16 shafts, so I had to restrict myself to the two outermost bands. I could not find an easy way, but after a while I think I found a work-around. It has to be woven on the dobby, and would rely on a couple of "empty picks" to make me notice when the light blue should cross to the other side. From the bottom up: The blue comes out on top of the green (it should go over the red, too - for some reason I didn't see that before making a picture of it :-( It comes out over the green, because the unwoven blue warp goes over the green. The green comes in fron the bottom, goes out on top, because unwoven green goes over red. Before the red picks, the blue should cross to the underside - the two outer bands go up, to make that easy. Blue stays on the underside for the red band. Blue goes in from the underside, and goes out still on the underside (because the unwoven goes under green). Green comes from the top, but comes out under (unwoven green goes under red) Before the red, the blue should come up - outer bands go down to make that easy. And so on... I think. - probably I will have to make some adjustments, once I start weaving, or rather: IF I start weaving.
3 in 1 is now also available in German, Danke Schön, Serendipity888, Italian thanks to bricci and in Norwegian thanks to lovely amylin et désormais aussi en Français The pattern is split in 2 pdfs per language: 1 pdf for the smaller sizes (XS-S-M) and another pdf for the larger sizes (L-XL-XXL). So you will find 10 pdfs: 2 in English, 2 in German, 2 in Italian, 2 in Norwegian and 2 en Français. Make sure you use the right pattern 3 in 1: a layered henley shirt worked bottom up, in the round, seamless and in 1 piece (yes 1 ;) with a contiguous sleeve inset and extra long sleeves. This is an ideal garment to use up stash yarns and the fun starts when picking colors for your 3 in 1 Each layer of the body is shaped with short rows and put on hold. The next layer is cast on and joined to the previous layer by knitting with 3 needles. Don’t let that scare you, it is quite easy and fully explained in words and illustrations Best worn with no ease or some positive ease. Available sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL: Finished measurements chest: 30.75, 34.5, 39, 43, 47, 51” (78, 88, 99, 109, 120, 130 cm) For ease of reading and following the pattern it is split in 2 parts: 3 in 1 (size XS, S and M) 3 in 1 (size L, XL and XXL) What you’ll need: sport weight / 5ply or fingering weight / 4ply section 3 = main section total of ± 800/910/1000/1120/1240/1350 m (880/1000/1100/1240/1360/1480 yards) If you make it striped as pictured: ± half of MC and CC section 2 = middle section ± 210/225/245/250/260/275 m (230/250/270/275/285/300 yards) section 1 = bottom section ± 200/220/240/285/295/320 m (222/240/265/295/325/360 yards) 3,5 mm circular needle (US 4) or double pointed needles (dpns) 4 mm circular needle (US 6) or dpns 3 mm circular needle (US 3) or dpns 12 markers 6 buttons ± 1,3 cm / 0.5” diameter Gauge 23 sts and 35 rows stockinette with the larger needle = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”) Check out the different projects for ideas and colors and especially revi-and-noa’s 3 in 1 here for a cute and inspiring idea (look at the thumbholes) Errata: version française, page 3 en bas: rang 26: tric env jusqu’au M (au lieu de tric endr)
Layer on a lovely look in this beautiful crochet cardigan with pretty scalloped edges. The hook and eye front closure and three-quarter sleeves make it an easy topper to any outfit that needs a touch of romance. 28" length Cotton Machine wash Imported
Enjoy a slice of rich, decadent Millionaire Shortbread, also known as Caramel Squares or homemade Twix Bars with an easy shortbread crust, gooey caramel layer and smooth milk chocolate topping.
The NIGHT DIVE® HONEY bottom features an ultra-flattering crossover surplice V-waistband, a mid-high rise fit, and our unique three-layer construction for the ultimate smoothing fit. FEEL: Material has a buttery hand feel. Triple lined compression material. SUSTAINABILITY: Made from discarded fishing nets and other nylon waste, sustainably and ethically in Bali, Indonesia. FIT: Compression fabric offers a controlled fit that holds its shape and makes the perfect, secure fit. Size up if you are between sizes or want more coverage. FIT TIP: Swimwear should fit snug when dry. Ethically Made Constructed in our recycled fabric OceanTex Created by the Female Founded brand NIGHT DIVE® Constructed in the most Environmentally Friendly way and with Zero Waste
Laugardalur Jacket in Black, made from breathable and water-resistant three-layer material with taped seams. Complete with adjustable hood and waist.
With a creamy lemon cheesecake filling, this easy peasy no bake Lattice Slice makes the perfect dessert! This recipe includes both regular and thermomix ins
Product information: Heating method: Drying Rated Voltage: 220V Body material: PP Packing List: Machine gift carton Applicable scenario: family Number of layers: 5 Rated Power: 160W Temperature Range: 35-70 degrees Panel Type: Knob type Product Size: [GB] white three-layer single twist,[GB] white five-layer double twist,[GB] blue three-layer single twist,[GB] blue five-layer double twist, [American Standard] white five-layer double twist, [American Standard] blue five-layer double twist, [European standard] white five-layer double twist, [European standard] blue five-layer double twist, [British Standard] white five-layer double twist, [British Standard] blue five-layer double twist Rated frequency: 50 Capacity: 5 layers Packing list: Drying machine x1pc
This beautiful origami rose ornament is perfect to make for a gift or as a decoration for your home. Each “layer” or wreath uses 6 pieces of paper, and there are three layers, not count…
