A comprehensive guide to the rewarding craft of chairmaking The often-intimidating art of chairmaking is explained in this book of expert patterns and tips for creating seven elegant chairs. Through each project, craftspeople learn increasingly complex skills that build upon each other, making the manual a complete education in all of the basic chairmaking techniques. The straightforward plans and methods make the designs--such as a child's ladderback chair and even armchairs--accessible for home woodworkers. Illuminating discussions of construction and design fundamentals, along with an appendix on oils and waxes to give projects the finishing touch, round out this exploration of the art of building comfortable chairs.
I caught up yesterday with Tim Manney, a designer and producer of chairmaking tools in Portland, Maine. Here's our conversation, the first installment in a new series of Q&A posts with experts and…
To talk about milk paint, the first thing to address is the question "How can you paint that beautiful wood?!" The basic idea that gives the windsor it's flexibility and durability is that the woods are chosen for strength over beauty. By splitting the wood instead of sawing it, we ensure strength and a minimal amount of wave in the grain. Also, by choosing different woods for different parts, the painting brings it all together and draws attention to the silhouette, not the grain. It becomes a line drawing in 3-D. The beauty of milk paint is that when its done well, it holds tight enough to the wood that it can accentuate its "woodness" that invites the touch and guides the eye. I have been making unpainted chairs lately with cherry, butternut and oak. These chairs require a different design, because of the visual punch of the woodgrain, but that's for another time. But back to milk paint. I describe milk paint to my clients as a thin layer of pigmented plaster. It really is just milk, lime and pigment. If you've ever tried to put a tack in a plaster wall, you know how tough plaster is! It effectively becomes limestone again. It is an incredibly easy paint to work with if you want the rough look of a primitive or aged piece. The problems come when you start asking more of the finish. One of my most revered adages is that you can't rush a finish, and it applies here. The companies that sell milk paint are expecting you to want the rough look, so the instructions that they include are geared towards that. I find the paint way too thick to use this way. A quick note about the different companies. I will mention the Old Fashioned Milk Paint Company and the Real Milk Paint Company. I use the product from both companies depending on the desired color or result. If I want a layering of colors that I can burnish to a medium sheen, I use the Old Fashioned Milk Paint. Honestly, their product is not as easy to use or as tough a finish and their colors are not as subtle (my opinion) but there is one major advantage that has me using their product. Their paint isn't as tough, which means that it will burnish to a higher sheen and layer better. The Real Milk Paint Company produces the milk paint that we've all heard of, tough as nails and matte as construction paper. I love their colors, the peacock is truly gorgeous. But you can only burnish it to a low sheen and because it covers so well, layering and getting the mottled look is not easy. I used the Real Milk Paint Company when I want a single color and a softer sheen (also the Real Milk Paint Product will last for weeks once mixed). My mixing process is similar for both, though I've had many more issues with the Old Fashioned Paint. I tend to mix the paint so that it is thin enough to filter through a cone shaped paper filter that you can get at the hardware store. I mix one part paint to 3 parts water and stir or shake it. One important note, different colors may take less water, such as yellows and blues. If you are starting out with milk paint, stick to the greens, reds and blacks. After mixing, let the paint sit for 1/2 hour or so (this is where the patience begins) and then mix again. Now let it sit another hour or so. You'll notice that the top has a foamy crust and the bottom a sludge. I don't want this, I want the creamy fine paint in the middle. So don't stir it up, just tilt the cup and watch as the fine paint slides out from under the crusty foam and pour it into the filter. Let the paint filter through as it will, maybe tap the filter but don't try to force the paint through. Yes, you are going to throw out a lot of paint, believe me, you don't want it. Now you should have a cup of premium paint that only needs thinning to desired consistency. I'll go into applying it next.
This chair narrows from back to front, mortise and tenons ensure that the structure is strong and sturdy without being heavy. Laminations are another important aspect of this project.
I've recently completed a Danish modern style lounge chair that is perfect for the serious student of the craft. If you ever wanted to learn how to weave Hans Wegner's CH25 then this is the chair for you. It is a foldable chair so when the class is through you can easily pack it home. The design of this chair is inspired after the Hans Wegner 512 folding chair but it has been simplified in style similar to Morten Gøttler's Cuba chair. I then adjusted the chair's framing to accommodate the "planflet" weave pattern. Needless to say its a surprisingly comfortable chair. I know you will enjoy making and using this piece for many years to come. What will the class entail? It will be a 5 day, one-on-one course (Mon-Fri). The components, including hardware, will be pre-made for you. You will spend the first two days removing milling marks from the parts and creating a finish ready surface. Then you assemble the frame and put on a traditional Danish finish. Starting day three you will begin the weaving process. The total cost for the class is $1850 which includes materials. Please contact me for scheduling a class.
I've recently completed a Danish modern style lounge chair that is perfect for the serious student of the craft. If you ever wanted to...
Rope wrapping creates exceptional texture and dimension for the tapering back of a modern accent chair. Crafted from walnut using tenon and mortise techniques, the chair creates a custom effect in your space, offering a compelling blend of sculptural, architectural, and artisan design influences. Features: Round plank seat pairs with a sculptural seat back to create a true art piece Corded back create a sense of texture and artistic lightness Features oiled and waxed European walnut wood construction Assembled by tenon and mortise Designed by skilled architect, designer and woodworker Eloi Schultz, based in Paris, France Measurements: Seat Height (cm): 30 cm Shipping info: Production Lead Time: 6-8 weeks Customizations are available upon request. Shipping fees will be invoiced separately and are not included in the listed price. To obtain a quote, kindly contact [email protected] via email.
A couple weeks ago I discovered a picture of Greg Pennington's chairmaking shop. The structure is a timberframed paradise of hand tool chairmaking. I can't imagine a more pleasant place to work. Greg's shop is, I would venture to say, the dream shop we all fantasize about. Then I noticed way at the back, past all the chairs in progress and the shave horses, his workbench. It was a Split Top Roubo. Gosh, that felt good. So I did something we never do here. I asked Greg about his shop and the bench. I solicited a response, so take his comments with a grain of salt of you like. But Greg has nothing to prove. His chair work is outstanding, and anyone who gets to help Pete Galbert teach at Kelly Mehler's school is automatically tops in my book. Here's what Greg had to say. "Hi Jameel, Thanks for the kind words. Of course you can use the picture. That bench has been the best addition to the shop. I actually have a former chair student coming back this winter to make this bench. Great to hear from you, Greg." And finally, please enjoy the pic of Greg's shop (make sure you click on it to enlarge it.)
“(Chairs) are too hard. Chairmakers are doomed to poverty.” — Gary Bennett (1934 – ) furniture maker and artist If I were a full-time chairmaker, I don’t think I’d be doomed to poverty. Instead…
This post coincides with an article the I've written for the Spring 09 issue of American Woodturner Magazine about tapered mortise and tenons. Making a tapered reamer to suit your needs is a relatively simple and rewarding project. This reamer works with a scraping action. The two edges of the blade, which is easily made from an old compass saw, are ground to the desired angle, then the edges are ground at 45 degrees and honed. Next a small burr is turned opposite the grind to create the cutting edge. Take care not to "roll" the burr too far, you're really just trying to point it in the right direction. Once the blade is made, turn a long cylinder with a diameter the same size as the largest width of the blade. It’s important to use a dry hardwood for a stable and long wearing tool. Then turn a taper to match the blade. Once this is done, it's time to cut a kerf down the middle of the taper for the blade. I mark the kerf by clamping the body of the reamer to my bench top, check to make sure that the centers at both ends are the same height off the table. Then cutting a block of wood that raises a pencil to the height of the center of the turning. Finally, I run the pencil and block down both sides of the taper to mark the line. Cutting the kerf is one of the trickier parts, so take your time! If you find that the kerf is not wide enough to let the blade slide in easily, use sandpaper around a thinner card scraper to even and widen it. Then carve out a couple of “gutters” for the shavings to fill and drill a 5/8ths inch hole for the handle. Its important that the blade extend a hair beyond the wooden body of the reamer. It need not be too tight in the slot, so that it can self center in the body while reaming. If the blade is not protruding enough, simply slip a shaving in the bottom of the slot to expose more of the cutter. This tool cuts relatively slowly, and requires that you remove the blade from the body often to clear jammed shavings, but I find that the control that it offers during reaming and the ease of making it are just right for my needs. More instructions on making this reamer can also be found on John Alexander’s www.greenwoodworking.com, where I first encountered the design. Another option is to purchase a tapered reamer from Elia Bizzarri at handtoolwoodworking.com. He can also sell you a matching tenon cutter. It might just be the last great woodworking tool bargain!
Part 1: Seat and undercarriage. Curtis Buchanan gets to the basics of chairmaking with this Windsor made exclusively with a few basic hand tools.
List of tools for Windsor chairmaking students
A blog about woodworking, chairmaking, turning and furniture making
If you’ve ever used a hand-cut rasp or a hand-filed saw you know how their tiny imperfections from handwork make the tool cut smoother. When it comes to making chairs, the small handmade imperfections…
“Ingenious Mechanicks” is my worst-selling book. Since it was released in 2016, we’ve sold about 4,000 copies. But I don’t care. That book changed my workshop life more than any other project I’ve …
I was out working on a maple tree yesterday and saw so many lovely spoon blanks in it that I thought it was about time to start up the Spoons for Hunger project again. For those who don't know, here's how it works. I use my nervous energy to make spoons and then I put them up on the blog for sale and if you are interested, you can email me. I put the names in a hat after a couple of days and pick a winner. Then you get a spoon and I sent the proceeds to aid hunger relief. I'm looking forward to a long winter by the fire kicking out spoons! This monster cherry ladle is $210. I have more to come that are smaller and a bit less expensive, so stay tuned. Thanks for joining in and please let me know if you have a favorite hunger relief organization.
Over 200 photos plus insightful essays from a variety of perspectives celebrate the chair—the centerpiece of furniture arts over the course of American furniture making—in this inspiring showcase of 45 works from 39 artists. These chairs, benches, and stools are sculptural, conceptual, functional (and occasionally dysfunctional) seating, reflecting the dramatic latest evolution since the storied history of chairmaking in Philadelphia. Statements by each of the artists offer their sources of inspiration and creativity. The chairs, set against the backdrop of the world's mass-production and petroleum-based materials, stand as a beacon to the vitality and critical importance of independent artisans and designers in raising the bar of excellence in the built world. A one-of-a-kind history of Philadelphia chair design, with full-page images of 40 historic chairs, is also featured. Compiled by Joshua Lane, the Lois F. and Henry S. McNeil Curator of Furniture, Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library, it details their evolution and makers, and their significance in furniture history. Shipping / Billing Information This product ships direct from the manufacturer: Your order will ship in approximately 5 business days. This product is considered special order. Your account will be charged when you place your order. Express or overnight shipping is not available for this product. Ships by Ground to the 48 contiguous states. Cannot ship to Alaska, Hawaii, PO Boxes, APOs, US Territories, Canada or other foreign countries. Return Information If you have a return issue, contact Woodcraft Supply customer service @ 1-800-535-4482 for return details. If purchased at a Woodcraft store, please return the item directly to the store where the purchase was made. Warranty Information Items considered defective will be replaced by the manufacturer if contacted within 30 days of the purchase date.
In my Amercian Welsh Stick Chair classes, we start with home center dowels that have been selected for dead-straight grain for the chair’s back spindles and
ercol Originals Chairmaker's Chair The pinnacle of Windsor chairmaking, ercol's Chairmaker's Chair is a demonstration of skill and craftsmanship. Four spindles separated by a double bow, and a curved arched back contribute to a supportive sit. Two upward-turned armrests supported by three spindles adjoining a solid sculptured seat provide additional comfort. Made in the UK. Designer: Lucian Ercolani, 1958 Manufacturer: ErcolDimensions: 23.6"w | 24.8"d | 43.7"h | 16.5"h seat Construction: Solid ash with a matte lacquer or paint finish. Features a Windsor wedge joint, where the leg of the chair goes right through the seat. A wedge is then inserted into a cut in the leg, forming a remarkably strong joint. Sanded off flush with the seat, the joint then provides a beautiful design element. Upholstered seat options also available, contact us to inquire. Contact us, we'd love to assist with your order.
In this video excerpt from "No-Fear Chairmaking,” Christopher Schwarz shows you how to use soap flakes (or grated soap) and water to make two varieties of traditional Danish soap finish.
Traditional windsor chair and danish midcentury modern chair making, chairmaker. Wooden plane making with Caleb James. Focussing on moulding / molding planes, 18th century wooden planes, materials, woods, construction, function, and use. How to make, use, sharpen, and maintain.
Many woodworkers avoid chairmaking for the joinery, the angles, the special tools required or the materials (green, rived stock?). And when it comes to designing a chair, even experienced woodworke…
I caught up yesterday with Tim Manney, a designer and producer of chairmaking tools in Portland, Maine. Here's our conversation, the first installment in a new series of Q&A posts with experts and…
presented at gallery FUMI, christopher jenner has designed the 'rush chair' as part of the studio’s continued exploration of traditional english craft.
I was out working on a maple tree yesterday and saw so many lovely spoon blanks in it that I thought it was about time to start up the Spoons for Hunger project again. For those who don't know, here's how it works. I use my nervous energy to make spoons and then I put them up on the blog for sale and if you are interested, you can email me. I put the names in a hat after a couple of days and pick a winner. Then you get a spoon and I sent the proceeds to aid hunger relief. I'm looking forward to a long winter by the fire kicking out spoons! This monster cherry ladle is $210. I have more to come that are smaller and a bit less expensive, so stay tuned. Thanks for joining in and please let me know if you have a favorite hunger relief organization.
Ercol Chairmaker Rocking Chair | Model 473 c. 1980 | With Custom New Seat and Scatter Cushions in Lovely Rose Colour Few forms convey the warm, familiar essence of home as succinctly as that of a rocking chair. This delightful piece was designed by Lucian Ercolani as a stirring ode to the historic profession of chairmaking, suffused with thoughtful crafted details and raw materials. Manufactured in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire. Ercol furniture is synonymous with good design, quality materials and craftsmanship and was built for longevity. This is a real eye catching piece of vintage retro furniture, features a traditional spindle backrest with eight finely-tuned spindles, curved to accommodate the bodies natural contours. Durable, solid wood legs grant the chair a range of movement, allowing users to lean back and enjoy the simple pleasures of sitting on a rocking chair. Please examine the pictures for a better idea of the condition. There is slight damage to the rocking legs of the chair. I have tried to show this and the colours as accurately as possible but please remember colours can vary in different lights and/or devices. The joints are solid & sturdy & strong with no wobbles. The item will not be in factory new condition, but is in excellent condition it may show some signs of its previous life. You are buying a piece of history. Please request more photos if required and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get into touch. D I M E N S I O N S Width: 24” (61cm) Depth at the base: 30” (76cm) Height: 40.5” (103cm) Oyster shaped seat
Instructions for using a chairmaking reamer to cut tapered mortices in a Windsor chair seat.
The Portland Chair, designed by Ben Klebba of Phloem Studio and produced by Thos. Moser, rose to the top in the architecture Architizer A+ Awards, winning both the Jury and Popular Choice Awards in the residential products categories for seating.
