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During the week I'd posted some images on Facebook showing how I was adding crocheted edges to pillowcases I'd made. A few people asked for a ...

I love the way this rolls up neatly so it can be tucked into a knitting tote or your purse. The color is up to you. This felted needle case features an un-felted knitted cable in a contrasting co…

Here is a lesson on how to starch crocheted small things. Holidays are coming, one wants to amuse relatives with little crocheted trifles,...

Have you ever put a wool sweater in the washing machine and have it shrink so it would only fit a doll? The felting process is disappointing when it happens by accident, but you can take advantage of this process to form sturdy, heat resistant fabrics. In this article, I will share with you some tips to create perfect felted garments. Some people will use a washing machine to felt their items. Since I don’t have access to a top loading washing machine (where you can check the progress of the felting so you don’t shrink the item too much) I prefer to felt by hand in the sink. For a visual demonstration, check out my video tutorial below!

Now I don't profess to be an expert on this, but Louise asked if needle felting was hard, so I'm going to show you how I do it. I didn't use an armature on Hyacinth, but I am using one here for this dog. Cut two pieces of pipe cleaner 4" long and one piece 3 1/2" long. Bend them into the shapes shown. It should end up looking like this. See, two leg parts and one head/body/tail part. Now twist the leg parts around the body part. With a few bends in the right places it's already starting to look like a dog. It almost takes on a life of its own. "Bad dog, stop that! Don't embarrass me in front of the nice ladies." Now take a piece of roving about 5" long and starting at the hip, wrap it around the leg working down to the foot. At the foot turn and start wrapping back up the leg. Now a word about the needles. I'm just a beginner and only have two needles. I don't know anything about size or type, and even with my little pink glasses, I can't see the barbs, but apparently there are barbs on these wickedly sharp things that sort of "tangle" the fibers together. The barbs are up a ways from the tip so you have to poke the needle through the fibers at least 1/2" to make the magic happen. Now start poking through the leg from all angles to secure the fibers. Try to avoid poking the pipe cleaner because that's bad for the needle. You can use the foam block to work on the little parts, or if you're brave and like blood, hold it in your hand. Because I guarantee, sooner or later, you will poke yourself. And like I said these things are WICKEDLY sharp. So be careful if you work in hand. Repeat that routine on all the legs, then do the tail and head and maybe two layers on the body. Your dog should eventually look like that bad dog's sister here. By the way, she is quite well behaved and would never embarrass me in front of you nice ladies. So this is the first part of making a felted dog. Tomorrow we'll start the details and work on house training here Amongst The Oaks.

Вот первый полноценный МК с подробным описанием процесса. Для работы потребуется: 1.Акрил детский примерно 40-60гр. (400м*100гр).Чем толще нить, тем больше получится игрушка. 2.Крючок 1,5см 3.Прочные нитки ( для пришивания деталей) в цвет пряжи. 4.Игла для игрушек (можно заменить обычной иглой большой длины) и для обычного шитья. 5.Синтепух или холофайбер (для набивки) 6.Шерсть для валяния(совсем немного, примерно 10-20 гр), игла для валяния 7.Стеклянные глазки, носик. 8. Ткань,кружево и подвеска для платья. 9. Пастель и тонкая кисточка для тонирования. Дальше много фото... Голова. 1-й ряд: 2 в.п. 2-й ряд: 6 ст. б/н во вторую от крючка петлю. (6) Далее вяжем по кругу. 3-й ряд: 2 ст. б/н в каждую петлю. (12) 4-й ряд: ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (18) 5-й ряд: 2 ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (24) 6-й ряд: 3 ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (30) 7-й ряд: 4ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (36) 8-й ряд: 5ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (42) 9-й ряд: 6ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (48) 10-11 ряд: провязать по кругу без прибавок (48) 12-й ряд: 5ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н вместе, повторить 6 раз (42) и т.д. в порядке убывания до 18 петель.Набиваем. Закрываем провязываем по 2 ст. б/н вместе. Мордочка вязаная.(Альтернатива валяной) 1-й ряд: набрать 7 в.п. 2-й ряд: 3 ст. б/н, во 2-ю от крючка петлю, затем 4 ст.б/н в каждую в.п., 3 ст. б/н, затем 4 ст.б/н в каждую в.п. (14) Вяжем по кругу. 3-й ряд: 2 ст. б/н в каждую петлю 3 раза, 4 ст. б/н,2 ст. б/н в каждую петлю 3 раза, 4 ст. б/н (20) 4-5 й ряд: 20 ст. б/н. Набить не очень плотно, пришить. На вязаной мордашке носик можно вышить (нитками типа "Ирис"). Ушки.(2 детали) 1-й ряд: 2 в.п.2-й ряд: 6 ст. б/н во вторую от крючка петлю. (6) Далее вяжем по кругу. 3-й ряд: 2 ст. б/н в каждую петлю. (12) 4-й ряд: 12 петель по кругу Нитку закрепить и обрезать. Тело. 1-й ряд: 2 в.п. 2-й ряд: 6 ст. б/н во вторую от крючка петлю. (6) Далее вяжем по кругу. 3-й ряд: 2 ст. б/н в каждую петлю. (12) 4-й ряд: ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (18) 5-й ряд: 2 ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (24) 6-й ряд: 3 ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (30) 7-й ряд: 30 ст.б/н по кругу 8-й ряд: 5ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (36) 9-й ряд: 36 ст.б/н по кругу 10-й ряд: 4ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н вместе, повторить 6 раз (30) 11-й ряд: 30 ст.б/н по кругу 12-й ряд: 3ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н вместе, повторить 6 раз (24) 13-й ряд: 2ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н вместе, повторить 6 раз (18) 14-й ряд: 1ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н вместе, повторить 6 раз (12) Набиваем. Закрываем петли. Голову набиваем плотно, но не переусердствуйте) во-первых потеряет форму, т.к. полотно эластичное, во-вторых будет перевешивать и игрушка не будет стоять. После обрезания нитки, крючок вводим сбоку и вытаскиваем кончик нитки, теперь можно обрезать. Ручки.(2 детали) 1-й ряд: 2 в.п. 2-й ряд: 6 ст. б/н во вторую от крючка петлю. (6) Далее вяжем по кругу. 3-й ряд: 2 ст. б/н в каждую петлю. (12) 4-й ряд: ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (18) 5-й ряд: ст. б/н по кругу (18) 6-й ряд: ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н вместе, повторить 6 раз (12) 7-11 ряд: 12 петель по кругу. Набиваем ручки. Закрываем провязывая по 2 п. вместе ст. б/н. Ручки можно набить поплотнее. Ножки. (2 детали) Вяжем с подошвы. 1-й ряд: набрать 7 в.п. 2-й ряд: 3 ст. б/н, во 2-ю от крючка петлю, затем 4 ст.б/н в каждую в.п., 3 ст. б/нзатем 4 ст.б/н в каждую в.п. Далее по схеме. О - в.п. T- ст.б/н V - 2 ст. б/н из одного 6-й ряд: Вяжем по кругу за заднюю стенку 32 петли. 7-й ряд: 32 ст. б/н по кругу. 8-й ряд: провязать вместе 2ст.б/н (6 раз); 4 ст.б/н; 2ст.б/н вместе,2ст. б/н (3раза); 4ст. б/н (23п) 9-й ряд: провязать вместе 2ст.б/н (3 раза); 4 ст.б/н; 2ст.б/н вместе,1ст. б/н (3раза); 4ст. б/н (17п) 10-16 й ряд: 17 ст.б/н по кругу. 17-й ряд: равномерно убавить 4 ст б/н.(13) 18-й ряд: 13 ст.б/н по кругу. Набить и закончить провязыванием 2 ст.б/н вместе. В ножки для большей устойчивости можно вложить "стельку" из плотного картона или пластиковой салфетки (перед убавками стопы). Набить плотно. После того, как все детали связаны, можно собирать игрушку. Если вы хотите, чтобы игрушка хорошо стояла, начинайте с ножек. Здесь показано нитяное крепление (точно так же можно сделать и пуговичное). Ножка прокалывается не насквозь. Ушки и ручки пока не пришиваем. Иголку после закрепления узелка, выводим на спинку и нитку обрезаем. Приступаем к мордочке). Отщипываем два, примерно одинаковых кусочка шерсти. Хорошо расщепляем их руками и начинаем формовать комочек иглой для валяния. Комочки должны быть не совсем плотные -"недоваляные" Прикладываем шарики к мордочке и начинаем приваливать до конца, формируя щечки и место для носика. Отщипываем еще маленький кусочек шерсти и валяем с одной стороны. Приваливаем его к щечкам снизу, формируя рот. Когда мордочка будет готова, игла должна очень туго входить в шерсть. Теперь прикалываем ушки симметрично. Примерно на уровне 5-6 рядов от макушки. Пришиваем потайным швом. Вот что должно получиться... Прикладываем к мордочке глазки и носик, найдя оптимальный вариант, который вас устроит. Можно сделать грустного или веселого, или задумчивого мишку, только меняя положения носика и глаз. Тонируем ротик, щеки,совсем немного вокруг носика и место для глаз. Теперь пришиваем глазки и носик,приклеиваем ресницы. Мишка приобразился) Теперь одеваем нашу игрушку, здесь полет фантазии, платье сшитое или вязаное, юбочка, тапочки, шляпки и т.д. (По вязаной одежде сделаю отдельный МК.). Пришиваем ручки и украшаем бантики, бусинки,пуговки,кружево,подвески и т.д. Вот, что получилось у меня) Если у вас остались какие-то вопросы с удовольствием отвечу). При копировании ссылка на блог желательна. Приятного творчества! 

For the pincushion you’ll need approx. 25 g sock yarn for the body and 20 g for both the upper part of the dress and the skirt. For the hair you’ll need approx. 15 g yarn. The ruffles are worked of crochet yarn size 80. The pattern is written out. There are no charts but many pictures and sketches to clarify the instructions further. Die Anleitung für das Nadelkissen ist in Englisch und Deutsch (2 files) You can download an ENGLISH and a GERMAN Version of the pattern

Get your craft on these craft kits for adults. Includes paint pouring, handlettering, macrame, crochet, knitting, needle felting and more!

I wish I had seen these a few years back when I hosted a Bamboo Needle Giveaway because this tutorial by Sarah on “Good Smiths” (double pointed Knitting Needle Cases) are perfect for st…

The Yip Yips Hanging Baskets Free Knitting & Crochet Pattern is an easy project to do. It's embellished with pingpong ball eyes and pipe cleaner antennae.

This tutorial includes instructions for felting a small, medium, or large bowl of a single color as pictured on the cover. These bowls are not knitted or crocheted, but made using the wet felting technique directly from unspun, carded wool. I recommend that readers of this tutorial have a basic knowledge of wet felting before trying to felt a bowl. Ideally the reader will have experience making felt by hand from roving or batting (not knitting/yarn) at least one time in the past. However, the instructions are written and designed for someone who has never felted before. I have been teaching felting for several years and I have decided to bring my no-nonsense, easy to understand teaching techniques into written material. This tutorial took over 100 hours to write, photograph, and edit. It contains copyrighted material and may not be duplicated without consent of the author. PDF file is 7.9 MB Explained in 25 Steps Contains over 220 photos 3 Bowl Sizes 42 pages If you would like to purchase more than one tutorial, consider purchasing them in bulk with a 25% discount: https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/125153680/buy-all-of-my-tutorials-for-a-25

Ryan of “The Blooming Thread” designed and created this stunning Felt Rosebud Basket. I found a picture of her project on Pinterest and then located her site and now I can share her tutorial with…

Felting knitting, or "what's in a name?" Some call it fulling, and that's probably the most technically correct. Some call it "boiled wool," and you can certainly boil it, but you don't have to. I think most people call it felting, so I will too. So, what IS felting? This post is about wet felting. Wet felting happens when wool is subjected to three factors simultaneously. First, there must be WETTING; second, TEMPERATURE CHANGE and third, AGITATION. When all three of these things happen at once, woolen fabric will shrink substantially, becoming both thicker and smaller. (There is another kind of felting done dry which is worked with barbed needles. This is called needle felting, but it is not covered in today's post.) Why felt? Felting has two sides to its nature: the utility aspect, and beauty inherent in such a dense fabric. utility Felt is as close to a miracle fiber as you can make outside of a lab. It is somewhat rain-proof, somewhat wind-proof, immensely warm and very hard-wearing--nomads in some of the world's coldest places live in felt huts, dress themselves in felted hats and boots and use felt to ride their horses. Closer to home, my kids have worn felted mittens here in Wisconsin for years: here is the same pair as shown in the opening illustration after they were worn for two years by a little boy for snowball fights, sledding and all-around tom-foolery. An unfelted mitten would never have survived, but these are tucked away safe, waiting for another little kid who needs bomb-proof mittens. < threadjack > If you want to make the mittens illustrated in this post, they are available in a couple of ways: For recipe (free) click here For the pattern ($3.25, child's XS-XL) you can *Click through to the pattern page *Click through to the project page *or buy the pattern now < / threadjack > beauty of the fabric However, utility knits aren't the only reason to felt. Felting is inherent beautiful with a soft, lush look. The stitches lose definition and meld together, the surface becomes matte. Here is a peek at the fabric of a felted cushion. The density of the fabric not only makes it wear hard, but makes it almost luminous--the depth of the fabric reacts with light differently than a thinner or smoother or shinier fabric would, the colors seem more saturated. Of all the cushions we have in the house, this is the one that people find themselves holding and carrying around from place to place. Felting is irreversible Felting is an irreversible process. Once felted, a hand knit garment cannot be unraveled. The yarn has stuck to itself and congealed into a solid mass. This irreversibility has both downside and upside. On the downside, that beautiful hand knit which went into the washing machine by accident has been ruined, yes. Nothing--not vinegar, not yogurt, not shampoo, not conditioner--can bring it back to its pre-felted state. On the upside, it is the very irreversibility of the process that makes felted items so hard-wearing. Felted knitting can be cut, sewn and shaped. It will not unravel, so a felted sweater can have a long and lovely second act cut up and sewn into cozy mittens and slippers. Felting is unpredictable Besides being irreversible, felting is also unpredictable. Sometimes, felting occurs gradually and evenly across an entire garment. More often, the process occurs suddenly and unevenly. Accordingly, felting garments to fit is something of a gamble. It is true that felted garments are commercially available--"boiled wool" jackets are a famous example. However, these garments are made from sheets of knitting which has been felted and then cut and sewn. The jackets are not "boiled," the fabric is. For this reason, most knit-and-felt patterns are for bags, or mittens, or slippers: items where the fit isn't super-important. Four ways to felt The two main ways to felt are by hand, or using a washing machine. Two other methods are by using a (clean!) toilet-plunger or by using a dryer. Whichever way you choose, however, consider turning the item inside out first, because the exposed side can get a bit roughed up by the process. With hand-felting, you have more control over the project. The mittens in the photo above were stopped from felting further at just the right time by having a paper pattern handy, against which the mittens were frequently compared as the size got nearer and nearer. For larger projects, or for projects where fit is not so much of an issue, felting in the washing machine is a good choice. Felting a large project by hand makes you realize the immense strength that the old washer-women must have had, to wrestle wet and heavy fabrics by hand. hand felting The basis of felting is that you knead and rub with the aid of dish-washing detergent—the suds act as a lubricant, making the rubbing easier. (That's hand dishwashing detergent, not machine detergent!) First, prepare a basin with cold water, and another with hot water, as hot as you can stand. (Hint: wearing dishwashing gloves lets you use far hotter water than you could stand without them.) Wet the item to be felted in the hot water, then lift it out of the water and rub and knead a drop or two of dish detergent through it. Hold one part of the item in one hand and the other part in the other hand, and rub the item on itself, changing your grip frequently to bring new parts into the process. Rubbing evenly all over gets the best all-over felting. Dunk the item into the hot water again, and begin to wash the detergent out, then abruptly dunk the item in the cold water and continue kneading and rubbing. Again lift the item out of the water, add a drop or two of detergent, then agitate and rub for a while. Continue in the manner, alternating sudsy kneading under hot and cold shocks until the item is the size you want. The felting and shrinking usually occurs when the cold water shocks the wool, although it sometimes occurs on a hot-water shock. Sometimes glove fingers or mitten thumbs fingers might try and felt shut. Keep a wooden-spoon handle or chopstick handy to poke apart unwanted interior felting. If you want to try boiling, dunk the project into a pot of boiling water , stir it with a wooden spoon, dunk it back in the cold water and do the soap and agitation cold. Repeat. One thing about boiling is that dyes used on woolens aren't always benign. Be sure to wash the pot very thoroughly afterwards, and use only a stainless steel pot to avoid unwanted interaction of the pot-metal with the dyes. However you do it, this process sometimes takes a LOT longer than you think, and you might have to replace the hot water with fresh if it gets too cool. Depending on the color and type of wool, it has taken me as long as 20 minutes of constant agitation and temperature shocks to felt one measly mitten. Other times, however, the process takes place so fast you can hardly see it happening. If it is taking a while, take heart: although you may doubt it while you are wrestling away, as long as the item was knit with ordinary wool (NOT SUPERWASH!!!) it will eventually shrink. When the item is the size you want, stop rubbing. Let the item come to room temperature, then gently rinse out the suds in fresh lukewarm water, then lay flat to dry out of the sun. washing machine felting: top loaders vs. front loaders The easiest machine for felting in an old-fashioned top loader you can stop in mid cycle. This lets you haul out the wet item to test the size as the process progresses. These old top-loaders also let you re-position stuff--sometimes items to be felted get folded on themselves during the spin cycle, and the marks left behind can be hard to get rid of. Another advantage is that, on most top-loaders, you can change the cycle with the twist of a dial, easily switching from wash to rinse to spin. Yet another advantage is that you can keep cleaning the lint screen if your project sheds. Top loaders do have one important downside, though: believe it or not, a washing machine agitator can break your arm. Be sure the machine is turned OFF before you reach in. Felting can also be done with a front-loader. These machines lock and it is often difficult to change the pre-set program once its started, so to get around this, choose the shortest cycle. This lets you keep checking the size after each run-through. machine how-to The principles of felting are the same whether by hand or machine: lots of temperature changes, lots of agitation. Each machine has different settings, so look for a heavy-duty cycle (lots of agitation) with abrupt temperature changes (hot wash followed by cold rinse, or vice versa). Unless the item is massive, it probably makes more sense to toss your felting in with a compatible load (or loads!) you were planning to run anyway. Some people prefer to run the item through the washer in a mesh bag or a pillow case. This does help catch the fibers from the wool, but has the downside that the fibers may be re-deposited on the surface of the item. Nevertheless, if your machine is elderly or likely to get clogged from a particularly wooly project, a bag is probably a good idea. If you are using a method where you can't get at the item during the felting process (the item is in a pillow case or a mesh bag, or if you are using a front loader which can't be stopped) you might want to consider stuffing the project loosely with a small rag. This helps keep the item from folding over on itself inside the bag or during the spin cycle: folding can leave crease marks. For small items, a loose stuffing can also help prevent the item from starting to felt to itself. Yet another trick: a toilet plunger A toilet plunger offers yet another way to felt. Yes, this sounds d.i.s.g.u.s.t.i.n.g, and so it would be if you used the same plunger for felting as for your toilet. Yuk. Don't do that. Buy a brand new toilet plunger and hide it away when you're not felting. Fill the tub with hot water, and the bathroom sink with cold water and have at it with the plunger. This is more work that machine felting but less work than hand-felting. Plus, unlike front-loader felting, with a toilet plunger, you can stop at any time to check the project. A final trick: dryer felting You can also felt hand knits, sort of, in a dryer. You put in the wet item (turn it inside out) and the dryer does the temperature change and agitation part. The upside of this is that you can stop the dryer at any time and have a look, the downside is that it often takes multiple wetting/drying cycles to get a moderate amount of felting: the temperature change is gradual, and the agitation less than if the item were in water. This will eventually work, but it's slow, and even slower if you put it into a bag or pillow case. Washing felted items Just because something is felted doesn't mean it won't shrink if you wash it again. The upside is that if the item is still too big, you can re-felt it. But if you'd like the felted item to retain its size, wash it the same way you would wash all woolens: cool water, no agitation, no temperature shocks, and no dryer. On the other hand, felt doesn't really seem to get very dirty--to my recollection, I've never actually had to wash a pair of felted mittens. Embroidery There is something about felted wool which pairs well with embroidery. Below are some "alien eyeball" mittens (also much worn) which were embroidered after felting with a sharp needle and woolen (called "tapestry") yarn. Although there are firmly-knit exceptions, like Swedish embroidered twined knitting, knitting generally doesn't play well with embroidery because the embroidery sinks into the stitches. However, felted knitting has no such problem. (These are child's size large from the kid-mitt pattern, just somewhat misshapen, you know, from long wear.) --Good knitting, TK You have been reading TECHknitting on "felting knitting."

Follow our basic felting directions and see five home projects you can make using this fun felting technique (we even include free patterns!).

Craftster user Ammasmama created these gorgeous handmade knitting needles by casting items like glitter and yarn in resin. She even provides a tutorial so

At last, a book that tells you everything you need to know about needle felting!\n\nThis is the book authors Roz Dace and Judy Balchin wish they had b

Did you know needle felting can be functional as well as decorative? Today I'll show you how to repair a small hole or tear in a sweater. You'll need your choice color of wool fibers (I recommend short fiber batts), felting needles, felting foam, and your torn sweater.

When I tell people that I needle felt, more often than not I have to explain what that is. At shows, a lot of folks walk into my booth and assume that I'm using boiled wool or I have knitted then felted (by way of washing and drying) my products. I always keep some unfinished products and supplies on hand so that I can demonstrate the process: "See, I gather the wool into the general shape, then I poke it with these special, barbed needles, and the fibers tangle together. The more I poke, the more I can shape and sculpt the wool..." Once they see how things are made, then it seems as though they have a better appreciation of the total work and time that goes into each piece. Needle felted pieces are not something that can be mass produced--at least very well. I'm just a one gal show over here (plus the work my husband puts in). As much as I wish I could make more things, my time is finite, which means my productivity is finite too. Sometimes I'm envious of graphic designers and artists who can make prints--they can produce so much product. They can send their work to shops across the states--out of the states even. I struggle to renew local consignment orders. Thank goodness the shop owners are patient. But I digress. Below is the step-by-step process with short descriptions of how I made the wool painting from week 3 of 52 Weeks of Felt Paintings. Enjoy! 1. Blank needle felted canvas on my felting foam with my 6-needle tool. 2. The four shades of blue I used for the sky. 3. The entire background was covered in one blue. 4. Other blues laid out on the canvas to determine how I wanted the gradient. 5. All the blues are felted down. 6. Playing with composition with shades of pink and purple for the balloons. 7. Started with the the balloons in the back.... 8. And worked my way toward the front of the bunch. 9. All balloons are felted in place. 10. Placing lighter colored felt for balloon highlights. 11. Balloon highlights are felted in. 12. I also added some white into the highlights. Determining string placement. 13. "Stretching" the wool into long pieces for the strings. 14. All the strings are in place. 15. Adding flesh colored wool for the hand and arm holding the balloons. 16. Adding small balloon details. 17. Small detail work on the hand. 18. The edges of the painting are still pretty messy... 19. ...so I cleaned them up with my felting needles. 20. Edges smoothed. (Side shot to show dimension.) 21. Finished! I didn't time myself while making this. It's not terribly detailed, so I guess it took a total of 1.5 hours (give or take a bit) not including all the picture taking. More detailed pieces take up to 3 or 4 hours. It truly is a lot of layering, and it's easier to build up the felt rather than take it away. Does anything about this process surprise you?

Felt pots

*PLEASE NOTE that everything I make and display here are my own, original designs and style and are COPYRIGHTED - they may not be copied in style or form without permission.*

Let me share how I made these cute little flowers. Anyone that has tried needle felting will tell you what a hugely satisfying craft it is. There's something strangely therapeutic about stabbing a big ball of fluff and watching it turn into a solid piece of sculpture. It's the perfect craft for letting off steam. My first attempt at needle felting resulted in these funny looking chaps. They were excellent fun to make and really, you can't go wrong when you're putting silly faces on pumpkins... One of the easiest techniques for creating needle felted shapes is using the cookie-cutter method. Basically, you just stuff a cutter shape with loose roving, tops, or carded wool and then keep prodding and poking it with a felting needle until all the fibres felt and mesh together into a solid shape. I'd still class myself as a novice needle felter, but you get pretty passable results even as a beginner. These flowers are the perfect starter project if you want to try out needle felting for the first time, as they combine both cookie-cutter needle felting and some simple sculptural needling techniques. Needle felting is pretty inexpensive to get started, and the supplies are becoming easier to find. Materials needed Wool tops, roving, sliver or shredded pure wool yarn. I buy mine from World of Wool in the UK. Felting needles. A lot of needle felters use thicker felting needles to begin with and then gradually reduce the width of the needles so that the holes become less prominent as the piece is finished. I tend to use just a size 38 triangular needle, but I use 4 or 5 at a time to start with. I then reduce it down so that I'm doing the final sculpting with just 1 needle. Thick foam or felting brush to felt on. I use an old memory foam pillow, (hence the unattractive towelling cover). Carders or wool combs are optional, but they do help with blending colours and seperating the fibres before you begin felting. Cutter shape. I use this sugar flower cutter as it's sturdy and there's a ridge of plastic to hold onto How to needle felt cookie cutter flowers Firstly you need to prepare your fibres for felting. I have a stash of dyed merino tops as I do quite a lot of spinning, however the fibres are a little too neatly lined up for felting, so I need to tease them and mix them up a bit. I hand card the fibres, but just separating the fibres with your hands will help in the felting process. I blended 2 colours together to get a more natural look. I've used a sugar flower cutter as opposed to a cookie-cutter as it's just a bit more comfortable to hold and the extra circle around the base of the cutter keeps your fingers a little further away from the felting needles - watch out, those needles are sharp! Stuff your combed fibres into the cutter, making sure that they all pass across the centre, so that all the petals are firmly attached. With practice it's possible to get a finished flower that has lighter outer petals and a darker centre (or vice versa). Now take your felting needles and just keep prodding inside the cutter until all the fibres have reduced down and are just filling the bottom of the cutter. Here's a short animated gif showing my needle felting technique. The felting needle has little tiny barbs on the edges causing the fibres to become tangled and compacted with each insertion. The more you poke and prod, the denser your wool will become and the more it will shrink or felt. I found that turning my flower and repeating the felting process when it appeared to be quite compacted at the base of the cutter helped to create a nice dense flower. Here it shows the flower becoming more and more felted with each turning. By the end of the 4th stabbing it was time to move onto the next stage. This process combines 3 steps in 1 - adding additional colour to the petals, creating a flower centre and further felting of the petals. I use just a single needle for the remainder of the flower. Pull out a thin wisp of fibres in a contrasting colour and lay it over one of the petals. I tend to place it so that one end is positioned just past the length of the petal I want to work on. Now insert the needle repeatedly at the base of the petal and gradually work your way up the petal until there is no more contrasting fibre left to secure into the petal. Secure the tail end of the contrasting fibre by needling it into the flower centre. Try to work it into a dense circle. To speed up the process of bringing the long, loose tail together I use a combination of gently swirling it around the needle end and prodding the loose fibres into a circle shape. The flower centre will become bigger, denser and higher as each petal is worked. Work your way around each petal, adding a thin layer of colour and needling the remainder into the centre. Keep working on the centre until it becomes quite dense with very few fibres sticking out. Once the centre has come together, the flower just needs a little neatening around the edges to get rid of its slight fuzziness. I tend to do this by lifting the loose fibres with the end of my needle and almost 'folding' the stray fibres in. Needle felting is not an exact science and everyone's style is different. Some people leave their pieces quite loose, while others keep working until it is very dense and solid. I tend to keep poking and prodding until it feels like a fairly durable piece, with very few fibres sticking out, but it's still fairly soft and squashy. I added this one to a headband for my daughter and I'm thinking of stringing a rainbow of pastel flowers into a garland to decorate her bedroom. If you enjoyed this post, you may also enjoy my post about making a Remembrance Day poppy. or my post on how to make a slightly more advanced layered flower using the same sugar flower cutter. ---------- Please be sweet and share the love. Leave a comment, subscribe to my YouTube channel, like my Facebook page for regular updates or follow me on Pinterest, Bloglovin' or Instagram

Вот первый полноценный МК с подробным описанием процесса. Для работы потребуется: 1.Акрил детский примерно 40-60гр. (400м*100гр).Чем толще нить, тем больше получится игрушка. 2.Крючок 1,5см 3.Прочные нитки ( для пришивания деталей) в цвет пряжи. 4.Игла для игрушек (можно заменить обычной иглой большой длины) и для обычного шитья. 5.Синтепух или холофайбер (для набивки) 6.Шерсть для валяния(совсем немного, примерно 10-20 гр), игла для валяния 7.Стеклянные глазки, носик. 8. Ткань,кружево и подвеска для платья. 9. Пастель и тонкая кисточка для тонирования. Дальше много фото... Голова. 1-й ряд: 2 в.п. 2-й ряд: 6 ст. б/н во вторую от крючка петлю. (6) Далее вяжем по кругу. 3-й ряд: 2 ст. б/н в каждую петлю. (12) 4-й ряд: ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (18) 5-й ряд: 2 ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (24) 6-й ряд: 3 ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (30) 7-й ряд: 4ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (36) 8-й ряд: 5ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (42) 9-й ряд: 6ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (48) 10-11 ряд: провязать по кругу без прибавок (48) 12-й ряд: 5ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н вместе, повторить 6 раз (42) и т.д. в порядке убывания до 18 петель.Набиваем. Закрываем провязываем по 2 ст. б/н вместе. Мордочка вязаная.(Альтернатива валяной) 1-й ряд: набрать 7 в.п. 2-й ряд: 3 ст. б/н, во 2-ю от крючка петлю, затем 4 ст.б/н в каждую в.п., 3 ст. б/н, затем 4 ст.б/н в каждую в.п. (14) Вяжем по кругу. 3-й ряд: 2 ст. б/н в каждую петлю 3 раза, 4 ст. б/н,2 ст. б/н в каждую петлю 3 раза, 4 ст. б/н (20) 4-5 й ряд: 20 ст. б/н. Набить не очень плотно, пришить. На вязаной мордашке носик можно вышить (нитками типа "Ирис"). Ушки.(2 детали) 1-й ряд: 2 в.п.2-й ряд: 6 ст. б/н во вторую от крючка петлю. (6) Далее вяжем по кругу. 3-й ряд: 2 ст. б/н в каждую петлю. (12) 4-й ряд: 12 петель по кругу Нитку закрепить и обрезать. Тело. 1-й ряд: 2 в.п. 2-й ряд: 6 ст. б/н во вторую от крючка петлю. (6) Далее вяжем по кругу. 3-й ряд: 2 ст. б/н в каждую петлю. (12) 4-й ряд: ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (18) 5-й ряд: 2 ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (24) 6-й ряд: 3 ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (30) 7-й ряд: 30 ст.б/н по кругу 8-й ряд: 5ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (36) 9-й ряд: 36 ст.б/н по кругу 10-й ряд: 4ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н вместе, повторить 6 раз (30) 11-й ряд: 30 ст.б/н по кругу 12-й ряд: 3ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н вместе, повторить 6 раз (24) 13-й ряд: 2ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н вместе, повторить 6 раз (18) 14-й ряд: 1ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н вместе, повторить 6 раз (12) Набиваем. Закрываем петли. Голову набиваем плотно, но не переусердствуйте) во-первых потеряет форму, т.к. полотно эластичное, во-вторых будет перевешивать и игрушка не будет стоять. После обрезания нитки, крючок вводим сбоку и вытаскиваем кончик нитки, теперь можно обрезать. Ручки.(2 детали) 1-й ряд: 2 в.п. 2-й ряд: 6 ст. б/н во вторую от крючка петлю. (6) Далее вяжем по кругу. 3-й ряд: 2 ст. б/н в каждую петлю. (12) 4-й ряд: ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н, повторить 6 раз (18) 5-й ряд: ст. б/н по кругу (18) 6-й ряд: ст. б/н, 2 ст. б/н вместе, повторить 6 раз (12) 7-11 ряд: 12 петель по кругу. Набиваем ручки. Закрываем провязывая по 2 п. вместе ст. б/н. Ручки можно набить поплотнее. Ножки. (2 детали) Вяжем с подошвы. 1-й ряд: набрать 7 в.п. 2-й ряд: 3 ст. б/н, во 2-ю от крючка петлю, затем 4 ст.б/н в каждую в.п., 3 ст. б/нзатем 4 ст.б/н в каждую в.п. Далее по схеме. О - в.п. T- ст.б/н V - 2 ст. б/н из одного 6-й ряд: Вяжем по кругу за заднюю стенку 32 петли. 7-й ряд: 32 ст. б/н по кругу. 8-й ряд: провязать вместе 2ст.б/н (6 раз); 4 ст.б/н; 2ст.б/н вместе,2ст. б/н (3раза); 4ст. б/н (23п) 9-й ряд: провязать вместе 2ст.б/н (3 раза); 4 ст.б/н; 2ст.б/н вместе,1ст. б/н (3раза); 4ст. б/н (17п) 10-16 й ряд: 17 ст.б/н по кругу. 17-й ряд: равномерно убавить 4 ст б/н.(13) 18-й ряд: 13 ст.б/н по кругу. Набить и закончить провязыванием 2 ст.б/н вместе. В ножки для большей устойчивости можно вложить "стельку" из плотного картона или пластиковой салфетки (перед убавками стопы). Набить плотно. После того, как все детали связаны, можно собирать игрушку. Если вы хотите, чтобы игрушка хорошо стояла, начинайте с ножек. Здесь показано нитяное крепление (точно так же можно сделать и пуговичное). Ножка прокалывается не насквозь. Ушки и ручки пока не пришиваем. Иголку после закрепления узелка, выводим на спинку и нитку обрезаем. Приступаем к мордочке). Отщипываем два, примерно одинаковых кусочка шерсти. Хорошо расщепляем их руками и начинаем формовать комочек иглой для валяния. Комочки должны быть не совсем плотные -"недоваляные" Прикладываем шарики к мордочке и начинаем приваливать до конца, формируя щечки и место для носика. Отщипываем еще маленький кусочек шерсти и валяем с одной стороны. Приваливаем его к щечкам снизу, формируя рот. Когда мордочка будет готова, игла должна очень туго входить в шерсть. Теперь прикалываем ушки симметрично. Примерно на уровне 5-6 рядов от макушки. Пришиваем потайным швом. Вот что должно получиться... Прикладываем к мордочке глазки и носик, найдя оптимальный вариант, который вас устроит. Можно сделать грустного или веселого, или задумчивого мишку, только меняя положения носика и глаз. Тонируем ротик, щеки,совсем немного вокруг носика и место для глаз. Теперь пришиваем глазки и носик,приклеиваем ресницы. Мишка приобразился) Теперь одеваем нашу игрушку, здесь полет фантазии, платье сшитое или вязаное, юбочка, тапочки, шляпки и т.д. (По вязаной одежде сделаю отдельный МК.). Пришиваем ручки и украшаем бантики, бусинки,пуговки,кружево,подвески и т.д. Вот, что получилось у меня) Если у вас остались какие-то вопросы с удовольствием отвечу). При копировании ссылка на блог желательна. Приятного творчества! 

Free crochet pattern for an ultra cute amigurumi dog. Easy to follow, with lots of pictures and a tutorial for making your own fur!

How To: Needle Felt Heart Garland

creating embroidery, needle felting, & fiber art tutorials

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