Make This Delightful Knitted Baby Layette Set For Your Little One

Knit Doll Bowling Skittles Free Knitting Pattern: knit home game toys

The Outlandish Bodice Vest Free Knitting Pattern is the perfect way to stay warm while looking fantastic. Cable gives the body of this vest a nice, textured look.

This is the second part of the mini-course that covers the basics of the Continental knitting style. Last week we discussed ways to hold the yarn and adjust yarn tension, and in this tutorial, we’ll take a look at knitting, purling and binding off stitches – all done with the working yarn in the left hand. […]

The Orwell's Garden Cowl Free Knitting Pattern is a quick knit that would make a great beginner colour work project.

Christmas stockings are a great way to experiment with different fair isle patterns to create a wonderfully festive effect, like Helen of pointy pointy sticks did with these fantastic stocking!

Ready to try stranded knitting? Get tips from these experts to avoid a few common beginner mistakes.

How to knit an easy triangle shawl

Hamish — a free pattern for a knit pair of fair isle socks from General Hogbuffer.

This Fuego Poncho Free Knitting Pattern will challenge your skills and help you improve while creating a stunning piece.

This elegant elongated heart-shaped Uroko Brioche Shawl Knitting Pattern features a stitch pattern inspired by traditional Japanese sashiko embroidery.

12 Days of a Vintage Handmade Holiday — Day 1 They’re comfortable, warm — yes, even sexy — and fashionably popular decade after decade. This stocking pattern is one from the…

Men’s cardigan with collar. Free knitting pattern. Knitted cardigan for men by Martin Storey. Martin Storey’s collared cardigan takes its inspiration from the rugged coast....

Learn how to knit bulky-style flat slipper socks using only two needles. Pattern + video tutorial.

A knit dickie pattern free perfect for layering in winter. Using basic knitting stitches, you'll have one whipped up in no time!

I’ll admit to not totally understanding the appeal of fancy knit socks. I enjoy knit socks (both wearing and knitting them), but my socks are generally super simple, stockinette or a basic te…

Prettify Your Dining Table With This Delightful Calla Knitted Coaster Set

Ginny Jovanovich returns to Knitting for Charity with yet another outstanding use for leftover yarn: a little-known knitting technique called helix knitting Do you struggle with what to do with your leftover yarn? Not long ago, I received an email from a reader that I honestly could have written myself! She wrote: “[I have] tons...

some of the thinking behind the making

I love Japanese knitting patterns. Of course not every designer from that country has the same style, but in general, many Japanese knitting patterns have a spare but stylish look, with just enough…

Fair Isle knitting is a technique for working two (or more) colors of yarn in the same row. The Fair Isle Hat Free Knitting Pattern is fun to knit and easy.

An easy to follow tutorial on how to read knitting charts for beginners. Everything a beginners needs to understand to follow a pattern.

I'm sure we all have dozens of knitted socks. They are one of the most important and practical parts of our wardrobes. Try these patterns!

EN: The popular design SONNENSTUNDEN (German for sun hours) becomes a collection. SONNENSTUNDEN tee is now followed by an airy cardigan knitted with a double thread of a kid mohair yarn. Early hours as well as late evenings can be quite cold during the summer time. A light and soft cardigan is a go for design for those chilly hours. It needs little space in your bag and will keep you cozy and warm when needed. The cardigan as well as the tee were designed with a pleasant anticipation of spending time in nature during the long summer days in mind. The cardigan is knitted top down flat. First the back neck is shaped using short rows followed by a raglan yoke. The raglan lines are knitted in Seed Stitch pattern while the rest of the cardigan is knitted in Stockinette Stitch to create a stitch contrast. After dividing the work in sleeves and body the raglan lines go over to side stripes that continue in Seed Stitch pattern. The sleeves are knitted in round using Stockinette Stitch. The design is finished by knitting a facing for the buttons along the front in Ribbing Stitch. All edges are worked in Ribbing Stitch pattern too. The pattern contains a step by step description, a schematic and knitting tutorials (photos and text). SKILL LEVEL Advanced SIZE 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9) suggested positive ease of appx. 10 cm / 4’’ BUST CIRCUMFERENCE OF FINISHED GARMENT 87 (93, 103, 113, 123) (135, 145, 155, 165) cm / 34 (36½, 40½, 44½, 48½) (53, 57, 61, 65)’’ YARN 1425 (1537, 1781, 2047, 2289) (2654, 2922, 3274, 3513) m / 1559 (1681, 1948, 2238, 2503) (2902, 3196, 3580, 3842) yds of a Kid Mohair yarn in Lace weight The design is knitted with a double thread (two yarn threads held together). The yardage mentioned above is the total amount of yarn needed. SUGGESTED YARN 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) (13, 14, 16, 17) balls or 175 (200, 225, 250, 275) (325, 350, 400, 425) g of Silk Mohair, Isager (75% super kid mohair, 25% silk, 25 g – 212 m / 232 yds), color 63 (caramel) The design is knitted with a double thread (two yarn threads held together). The yardage mentioned above is the total amount of yarn needed. SUGGESTED NEEDLES 3.0 mm (US 3) und 3.5 mm (US 4) circular needles with an 80 cm / 32’’ cord or a needle size to achieve the gauge below GAUGE (after wet blocking) 20 stitches x 27 rows in Stockinette Stitch on bigger needle size = 10x10 cm = 4x4’’ TOOLS 8 stitch markers waste yarn or stitch holder 7 (7, 8, 8, 9) (9, 10, 10, 11) buttons size 15 mm (5/8’’) ø __________________________________________________________________ DE: Das Design SONNENSTUNDEN wird zu einer Kollektion. Nach dem beliebten SONNENSTUNDEN Shirt gibt es nun auch einen luftigen Cardigan, gestrickt mit einem Doppelfaden Mohair-Garn. Die frühen bzw. späten Sommerstunden können oft recht frisch sein und ein leichter Cardigan ist dafür genau das Richtige. Er wiegt nicht viel und nimmt nicht viel Platz in einer Tasche ein, sorgt aber in den kühlen Sommerstunden für die nötige Wärme und Gemütlichkeit. Wie das Shirt entstand der SONNENSTUNDEN Cardigan in der Vorfreude auf den Sommer und viel Zeit in der Natur. Der Cardigan wird von oben nach unten in Hin- und Rückreihen gestrickt. Als erstes wird der Nackenbereich mit Hilfe von verkürzten Reihen geformt und anschließend die Raglanpasse gearbeitet. Die Raglanlinien werden im kleinen Perlmuster gestrickt. Der Rest vom Cardigan ist im schlichten Glatt Rechts Muster als Kontrast zum kleinen Perlmuster gearbeitet. Nach der Abtrennung der Ärmel gehen die Raglanlinien in Seitenstreifen über, die ebenfalls im kleinen Perlmuster gehalten sind. Die Ärmel werden im Glatt Rechts Muster in Runden gestrickt. Das Design wird mit einer Blende im Rippenmuster entlang der Vorderteile beendet. Alle Bündchen sind ebenfalls in einem Rippenmuster gestrickt. Die Anleitung beinhaltet eine „Schritt für Schritt“ Beschreibung, eine Schnittskizze und Strick-Tutorials (Foto und Text). SCHWIERIGKEITSGRAD Fortgeschritten GRÖßEN 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9) empfohlener Bewegungsspielraum für den Brustumfang liegt bei ca. 10 cm BRUSTUMFANG VOM FERTIGEN STRICKSTÜCK 87 (93, 103, 113, 123) (135, 145, 155, 165) cm STRICKGARN 1425 (1537, 1781, 2047, 2289) (2654, 2922, 3274, 3513) m von einem Kid Mohair-Strickgarn in Stärke Lace Das Design wird mit einem Doppelfaden gestrickt. Bei dem angegebenen Garnverbrauch handelt es sich um die Gesamtmenge. STRICKGARNEMPFEHLUNG 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) (13, 14, 16, 17) Knäuel bzw. 175 (200, 225, 250, 275) (325, 350, 400, 425) g von Silk Mohair, Isager (75% Super Kid Mohair, 25% Seide, 25 g – 212 m), Farbe 63 (Karamel) Das Design wird mit einem doppelten Faden gestrickt. Bei dem angegebenen Garnverbrauch handelt es sich um die Gesamtmenge. NADELEMPFEHLUNG 3,0 und 3,5 mm Rundstricknadeln mit einem 80 cm Seil oder eine für die Maschenprobe passende Nadelstärke MASCHENPROBE (Nach dem Spannen) 20 Maschen x 27 Reihen im Glatt Rechts Muster mit Doppelfaden und auf größeren Nadeln gestrickt = 10 x 10 cm ZUBEHÖR 8 Maschenmarkierer Garnreste oder Maschenhalter zum Stilllegen von Maschen 7 (7, 8, 8, 9) (9, 10, 10, 11) Knöpfe mit einem 15 mm ø

Read Knitting languages knitting terms in several languages by siren97 on Issuu and browse thousands of other publications on our platform. Start h...

Ah, spring. Having just arrived [http://www.woolyventures.com/four-more-days/] in Canada from New Zealand a few days ago, spring feels colder than normal. I’ve traded in those sunny skies for cloudy ones, and the chirping tui [http://www.nzbirdsonline.org.nz/species/tui#bird-sounds] birds I was used to waking up to have been replaced with the sound of rain drops falling against the window pane. Fortunately, these elements combine perfectly with sock knitting. And on the beautiful west coast of

I blogged about this one here. Again, a while ago. It doesn't look a whole lot different now, but I thought it deserved an official FO post. This is an interesting design, if I do say so myself: nothing more than basic ribbing, with a little shaping, but the horizontal ribbing in the center panel makes for a pretty dramatic design feature and adds curves where they don't really exist. I used some Rowan cashsoft dk I had in the stash for a long time (I ordered it by mistake, thinking it was cashcotton). I debated for some time about what sort of sleeves to make for this. In the end, I decided to make it a tank top, mostly because I wanted to move on to something new and this was the fastest finish. I did a quick single crochet finish around the armholes to give them some structure. I've never actually worn this. I think it would be more wearable with sleeves, and some day I may get around to knitting some. In the meantime, I think it would make a good vest over a shirt, but since that's not really a wardrobe concept I've ever embraced, it mostly just sits on a shelf in my closet.

Congratulations, Heidi! It seems like people are always interested in general knowledge books about knitting. Whether we are new knitters (or knitting hopefuls!) or people who have a lot of knittin…

I couldn't decide which colour of lovely Birlinn Yarns 4 ply to buy, so I got a ball of each colour and this is the result. I made a colourwork cardigan which aims to reflect the colours and lanscape of the Scottish Hebrides. The cardigan is knitted in the round with a centre front steek. The sleeves are knitted in the round then sleeves and body are joined to form a yoke. Short rows are used after shaping the yoke to provide extra height at the back neck. The steek is cut and button and buttonhole bands are added. The buttons I used were a gift. Wood or horn buttons would look good. I made this cardigan for myself then wrote down what I had done. Some people asked me for larger sizes so I have added in two larger sizes. In the pictures, the cardigan is worn in the first size with about five inches (12cm) of positive ease. The pattern has not been test knitted in Spindrift. I have recommended colours which are closest to the original shades of Birlinn but they are not an exact match.

The Teddy Bear Blanket is an easy blanket pattern written in 5 sizes and works up quickly with double strands of bulky weight yarn.

Elegant landscaped cables create a flattering A-line shape to this cardigan that allows it to swing. Wear it open or cross it over with a snap or pin for a cardigan with a difference.Sample is shown in Blue Moon Fiber Arts Targhee Worsted in size 34.5” / 87.5 cm modelled with no ease in Shorter Version. A suggested substitute yarn is shown below.Pattern includes instructions for a shorter length version and a longer length version. Please note that the yarn quantities for the suggested yarns are for the shorter version; for the longer version an additional 200 yards/183 metres is needed.

These Stash Buster Sweater Knitting Patterns are a great way of using up your stash of odds and ends of yarn.

A new easy hoodie knitting pattern – the Anastasia Hoodie – is a free chunky cardigan knitting pattern here on the blog! Read about my inspiration and the scrumptuous yarn this hoodie is designed with or scroll down for the free pattern. No time right now? Pin this free hoodie knitting pattern for later! The Anastasia Hoodie is the perfect chunky knit cardigan pattern for fall. When the weather starts getting a little cooler, you start reaching for light coats and vests to layer on before heading out the door. The Anastasia Hoodie features a cozy hood and deep pockets to keep your hands nice and warm. This vest also has the option to add sleeves for a full-coverage hoodie! The Inspiration Last fall, I crocheted a hooded vest, the Dusk Hooded Vest (check out the free pattern here) and I’ve been wearing it non-stop in the fall and spring (and let’s be honest, on cold summer days too). This year I wanted to make a warmer knit version I could wear all winter long, here comes the Anastasia Hoodie. I wanted the same feminine touch the lace edging gives to an otherwise simple and very cozy vest. I added a […]

A step-by-step tutorial on the M1L and M1R knitting increase. How to knit them and how to tell them apart so you don't get confused.

How to Knit Below Knitting Technique with Studio Knit

A play on the traditional rib stitch, the Seed Rib knit stitch tutorial will give you thick textured rows you'll want to use for everything.

This month I’m introducing you to Janine Bajus, aka The Feral Knitter. She is an author, designer, teacher, online shop owner, and Fair Isle enthusiast.

Knitting blog for lace and cable lovers. Find beautiful knitting patterns, interesting swatches and awesome knitting techniques.

Cats in the Hat Free Knitting Pattern

5 illustrations, click any illustration to enlarge *reminder--like the other posts in this series, the top part shows the general directions, the bottom part, directions for the KAL of the "pocket hats" which illustrate the post For years, a truly flat hat top in ribbing eluded me. With spiral decreases, no matter how ferocious the rate of decrease, the darn thing never lay flat, nor could I find a suitable pattern for progressively eliminating ribs. With "all-at-once decreases" the ribs became even more distorted and the darn thing still wouldn't lay flat--the 12, 10 or 8 stitches at the top would form a little nipple when the yarn was drawn through--not quite the thing. On both kinds of decrease, the needles at the top of the hat went slipping out as fewer and fewer stitches remained. But today, I go on my way rejoicing, because a few months ago, a new trick revealed itself to me, a ... TRULY FLAT TOP for a ribbed hat This hat top features 5 decrease rounds and a final working together at the top, 6 steps in all: these are labeled steps A through F on the illustration, and are described in the text. Step D is not labeled on the illustration because it is only a minor (although mathematically important) decrease. Some of these steps are ordinary decreases with which you are familiar: knit 2 together (k2tog) and purl 2 together (p2tog), but some of these steps have a little trick involved.In the top part of this post -- the general directions -- the number of plain rounds to work between the decreases is left vague, partly because much depends on the yarn you're using: baby weight requires more plain rounds between decreases than does bulky yarn. In the bottom part of this post, round-by-round directions are given for the hat top in double knitting weight (DK, also called "light worsted") and you can use these row-by-row directions as a starting point, adding plain rows for thinner yarn, subtracting for thicker. Part 1: general directions for the truly flat hat top STEP A (decrease on the purl ribs)This first round of decreases features an ordinary decrease done on the PURL stitches. Written succinctly: *purl 2 together, knit 2* all the way around the first decrease round Hidden in the purl ribs, the purl 2 together (p2tog) decrease will never show on the outside (although it does show inside). After this decrease round, knit several rounds without decreasing in the new pattern (k2,p1), and that is the end of step A. One little note before leaving step 1: On a 2x2 ribbing, the rate of decrease in step A leaves 3/4 of the original number of stitches on your needles. Step B (decrease on the knit ribs)On this step, a knit 2 together (k2tog) decrease is done on the knit ribs. However, there is TRICK: an extra round added, a set-up round where only the purl stitches are worked, while the knit stitches are not worked at all, only slipped. As shown in the illustration, working the k2togs WITHOUT the set up row results in flabby, slanted stitches, while WITH the set up row, the stitches are more upright. Including the set-up row, written succinctly, step B is in 2 rounds: round 1 (set up round): * p1, slip the 2 knit stitches of the knit rib purlwise, while holding yarn in back* all the way around the round. round 2 (decrease round): *p1, k2tog* all the way around the round. By inserting an extra round of purls but not knits, the knits are forced to stretch upward. Of course they will slant somewhat, but with much their slack devoted to stretching up that extra round, the k2togs will lay smoother and more upright than if the slipping row were omitted. Three little notes before we leave step B: After this step, you will have 1/2 of your original stitch count on the needle. From here on out, when you come to count rows, it will look like you lost a row -- if you find that you need to count rows, the row on which you slipped the knits will be invisible--you won't be able to see it unless you turn the work inside out to count rows! Performing the decreases on this round will certainly result in so few stitches that they cannot POSSIBLY be stretched around a circular needle, however short. Therefore, if you were not already working on double pointed needles (dpn's) or by the magic loop technique, you would have to switch to one of those techniques now. Step C (decrease away all purl ribs, change gauge)The problem now is that there is STILL too much yarn and too much slack to make a hat top lay nicely flat. So the little TRICK of this step is to CHANGE GAUGE. Yes, simply by knitting with a smaller needle (2 sizes smaller works well) you'll be putting a lot less yarn into the hat top, and that'll help a lot with laying smooth. Changing gauge is not a conventional method of decrease, so it bears repeating one more time: by switching to a smaller needle, you are putting a lot less yarn into the fabric, and this creates a decrease all by itself. In other words, you will now: *switch to needles 2 sizes smaller and use these smaller sized needles for the remainder of the hat top.* As it happens, in step C we NOT ONLY want to tighten up all the future stitches we are going to knit, but we ALSO want to decrease away even more of them. Therefore, IN THIS SAME ROUND that you're switching to smaller needles, you are ALSO going to do another k2tog decrease all around. The k2tog's will look best if you arrange matters so that the purl stitch lays behind the knit stitch when the k2tog is finished. Written succinctly, and incorporating the previous part about smaller needles, step C can be summarized: arrange matters so that one purl stitch is on the tip of your left needle, with a knit stitch the left of that. *Knit together the knit stitch with the purl stitch* all the way around the round, using the smaller needles. As you can see from the illustration below, the combination of gauge change and decreases results in a very pretty and very distinctive change in fabric. After this decrease, work an additional round or 2 with the smaller needles and this will end step C. Two little notes before leaving step C: After this step, you will have 25% of your original stitch count on the needles. In this step, you work away all the purls, and all the rest of the hat top will be by means of knit stitches only. Step D (another set up row, possibly with decreases)In step D, you're going to decrease away as many stitches as are needed so that at the end of the step, you'll have a multiple of 4 stitches on your needles. If the number of stitches on your needles is ALREADY divisible by 4, then you're all set, just knit a round plain. If you wonder WHY you need a multiple of 4, there is a green paragraph of explanation. If today is not a "why" day for you, just scroll past. In Step F, the last step, you Kitchener-stitch (graft) the top of the hat together. Step E-- just before that final grafting--is a last decrease round in which you're going to decrease away the remaining number of stitches by half. So, in order to have the correct number of stitches for steps E and F, this step--step D--gets rid of any extra stitches which would throw off final stitch counts. In other words, this step, D, is a "set-up round." As you may remember from middle-school math, only numbers which are multiples of 4 (4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40 or 44, etc.) will yield an even number when further divided by 2. In other words, round E gets rid of half the remaining stitches, and the number of stitches at the end of round E has to be an even number of stitches, so rounds E and F will only work if we use round D to decrease away any leftover stitches ahead of time. Written succinctly, in step D you must proceed as follows: If on your needles, you have ANY NUMBER OF STITCHES DIVISIBLE BY 4, you're all set: just knit one round plain. If, however, you have ANY OTHER sort of a number, you must use this step to bring the number of stitches on your needles to the nearest multiple of 4 by knitting 2 stitches together as many times as needed. You can simply put the necessary number of decreases anywhere at random in this round, just so long as you don't put them next to one another. Knit one additional round plain (no decreases) and that is the end of step D. Step E (last decrease round)This step is simply a round of k2togs--and it is the last decrease round. The only thing remarkable about this round is that these last decreases are a bit miserable. As a result of previously switching to smaller needles in step C, these stitches are already at a very small gauge. Knitting two together at this gauge (and on so few loops) means stitches that just want to POP off the needle. However, persevere, because the final result is worth it. To make it easier, the little TRICK in this step is that you can either use a smaller needle (a tiny sock needle) OR a crochet hook to work the actual decreases, then replace the resulting loops back onto the needles you have been using (replacing the stitches back on the needles they came from assures that these last loops are of the correct diameter for step 6, replace the stitches RIGHT ARM FORWARD so they are in the correct position for step F). Step F (graft--a.k.a. Kitchener stitch--the hat top shut)Arrange the stitches so that they are divided in half. If you are working on dpn's, arrange 1/2 the stitch count on each of two needles. If you are working by magic loop, put 1/2 the stitch count on each needle of your magic loop set-up. The grand finale, the final TRICK of this hat top, is to graft the top together. (Click here for an easy method of Kitchener stitching.) Kitchener-stitching the top shut achieves three big aims: first, the short lengthwise graft pulls the entire top into the pleasant-looking oval shape of the finished decrease (see illustration below) second, grafting prevents you from having to work final decrease rounds on a tiny number of stitches, with needles falling out in all directions and third, it makes a really smooth top, avoiding the pointy-looking decreases of other hat tops This decrease looks very well, and goes very fast--faster and faster on each round as you decrease away more and more stitches. Part 2: Round-by-round directions for the pocket hat KAL In the previous post of the pocket hat KAL, we left the pocket hats 4 stripes high, with the fifth color just added by the jogless back join method. In this post, all the decreasing of the entire hat will be done in this final color. The row instructions are written for the Watch Cap. For the Stocking Cap, add another round in pattern between rows 2 and 3. For the Rasta Hat add another round in pattern between rows 2 and 3 and also between rows 5 and 6. Stitch counts appear for the two different widths of hats (116 sts = regular size, 120 sts = extra large head size) Round 1: After performing the jogless back join in the new color yarn, knit around (no purling) ending just before the first two purl stitches to be worked in the new color. Place marker. (116, 120 sts) Rounds 2 and 3: *p2, k2* repeat around (for stocking cap and rasta hat, add another round between rounds 2 and 3, per note in PURPLE, above) Round 4: *p2tog, k2* repeat around (87, 90 sts remaining) ROUND 4 corresponds to STEP A of the general directions in part 1 of this post, above. Rounds 5 and 6: *p1, k2* repeat around (for rasta hat, add another round between rounds 5 and 6, per note in PURPLE, above) Round 7: *p1, sl2* repeat around. (Slip stitches purlwise so as not to twist, slip with yarn in back.) Round 8: *p1, k2tog, repeat around (58, 60 sts remaining). Things will start to get tight at this round – it’s time to switch to dpns or the magic loop technique if you haven't done so already. ROUNDS 7 and 8 correspond to STEP B of the general directions, above. Rounds 9 and 10: *p1, k1* repeat around Round 11: Switching to needles 2 sizes smaller, and using a long magic-loop type set-up, or a set of dpns, *k2tog* around, setting up so that you have (15, 15) stitches on your first needle, and (14, 15) on the second (29, 30 stitches remaining). ROUND 11 corresponds to step C of the general directions, above. Round 12: Knit plain (no further purling on this hat top). Round 13: In order to make the final graft work on this hat it is important to have a multiple of 4 stitches at this point: For the 116 st hat: k13, k2tog, k to end of round (28 sts remaining) For the 120 st hat: k13, k2tog, k13, k2tog (28 sts remaining). ROUND 13 corresponds to step D of the general directions, above. Round 14: k plain Round 15: *k2tog* around. (14, 14 sts remaining). ROUND 15 corresponds to step E of the general directions, above. Round 16: Kitchener-stitch the top of the hat closed. ROUND 16 corresponds to step F of the general directions, above. Try the hat on. If you find it is too short or too long, the hat need not be ripped out all the way to the beginning to rebalance the color proportion among the stripes. No. As stated in the first post of this KAL, the ultimate fit of this hat can be somewhat adjusted by working more or fewer rounds only in this last color. So, if you need to fix the fit, rip out to round one of this last color, then re-work, adding or subtracting in the plain rows to make the hat longer or shorter. If you want to know WHY this procedure does not distort the color pattern even though it seems like it would, a (long-ish) art- history type explanation is here. If you are following along in the KAL, the steps still remaining to a finished hat are BLOCKING and TWO ALTERNATIVES to conquer ITCHY-FOREHEAD syndrome --TECHknitter PS: * * * ADDENDUM, 2011: The KAL laid out above stretches out over 5 posts, of which this is fourth, and it is free. However, some folks have written to say they find it hard to follow the pattern over so many posts. So...if you like, you can buy the pattern in an easy-to-print, all-in-one place pdf. * * *PS:

This jacket is designed with the intension of creating a garment you should feel right at home in as soon as it touches your shoulders. My main focus in the developing process was to get the best fit around the shoulders and armhole. I love brioche and the possibilities for letting the shaping with increases and decreases become an essential part of the design. The shorter length and slanting pockets makes this jacket an easy and functional addition to most wardrobes. Use it as a warm cardigan on colder days or as a jacket on cool summer evenings.

Real Fairisle knitting is one of the joys of my existence. Working with shetland wool feels intuitive, like what knitting should be. I have been exploring the happiness of working in one brand of that yarn imparticular, Sandness's own "Jamieson's of Shetland". Their colour palette is the best there is on offer. I've loved them for ages, but this is my first foray into "pattern writing" with their wool. A warning: This is not a pattern for a beginner. In fact, if you are a beginner, let