Sew a faux leather handbag with exclusive project from Debbie Shore

This double zipper pouch tutorial is for a lined pouch that you can use as a pencil case, cosmetics bag, or as a clutch. The finished measurements are approximately 10″ wide x 5 1/2 tall. This is a good project … Read More

neszeszer varrás kezdőknek A neszeszer varrás nem nehéz. Főleg, ha olyan részletes varrási útmutatót kapsz hozzá, hogy egy varrótanfolyamon érezheted magad. Ennek a neszeszernek a megvarrásából új dolgokat is tanulhatsz. Például azt, hogyan kell a csíkos anyag szabásánál figyelni a csíkok egyezésére. Ha majd ruhát varrsz, akkor is könnyebben odafigyelsz az ilyen apró részletekre. Nézd meg a cikket kattints ide: neszeszer varrás A neszeszer varrás kezdőknek is ajánlott!

Scarsella é um modelo de bolsa que foi utilizado no século XV. Possui dois bolsos principais e dois bolsos para a...

Maintenant disponible en français! Veuillez choisir votre langue dans la liste déroulante ci-dessus. Description française ci-dessous. The Boronia Bowler bag is a medium sized bag to be carried as a handbag or cross body thanks to the removable cross body strap. It features some vinyl accents on the bottom and double s

Continuamos Chic@s!!! En mi anterior entrada, Tutorial Bolsa de Labores: 1ª Parte, lo dejamos en la preparación de la cremallera, ahora vamos a ponerla en su sitio. Le damos la vuelta a nuestra bolsa y colocamos la cremallera en el lateral haciéndola coincidir con la última tira horizontal, derecho con derecho, en la foto se ve el final de la cremallera pero en realidad he puesto primero el otro lado, por donde se abre, se ve en la siguiente foto. Marcamos y cosemos... Abrimos la cremallera y seguimos cosiendo alrededor de la bolsa... ...Por la marca, esto es por el filo. Siempre con la cremallera abierta, sino cualquiera le da la vuelta!!! Una vez lo tenemos, cosemos un pespunte alrededor de toda la bolsa coincidiendo con la costura entre la primera tira horizontal y las verticales. Nos queda algo así, a modo de adorno le he puesto un segundo pespunte en la tira roja, pero eso es opcional, vais viendo como va quedando? Ahora vamos con el forro!!! Os tengo que comentar antes de empezar que puse el forro antes que las asas y creo que hubiese sido mejor al revés, ya que al coserlas la costura se nota en el interior, en mi caso no se aprecia porque es hilo blanco, igual al fondo de la tela pero estaría mejor terminada de la otra forma, dicho esto...seguimos! Bueno, para hacer el forro seguimos los mismos pasos que para la parte de fuera...Tenemos los tres rectángulos + costuras, como veis en la foto siempre voy por largo, cosemos un lateral y luego el otro. Recortamos el sobrante, pero tampoco hace falta que sea al ras, pensad que será una bolsa con mucho tute y no queremos que se abran las costuras. Y lo tenemos...Ahora vamos a añadir el bolsillo interior! Doblamos por la mitad el trozo de tela para el bolsillo de 22 x 24 cm, en la foto se ve que yo corté dos trozos de tela, no hace falta así nos ahorramos coser uno de los lados, nos queda un bolsillo de 11 x 24 cm + costuras, acordaros que no están añadidas en las medidas...Cosemos los lados abiertos y dejamos una pequeña abertura para dar la vuelta. Cosemos a puntada escondida la abertura y ponemos la cinta... Como el mío lleva tres bolsillos, pues así he puesto la cinta... Hilvanamos las cintas, fijamos solo la cinta de arriba a mano o a máquina, yo lo hice a máquina. Situamos el bolsillo a una distancia entre 6 y 8 cm del comienzo del forro, pero eso es mejor que lo veáis vosotras. Pasamos un pespunte por todo el alrededor excepto por arriba claro, y otro pespunte por las cintas verticales para hacer los tres bolsillos. Si queréis ponerle una etiqueta con vuestra marca, hay que coserla antes de fijar el bolsillo al forro, la mía es una cinta de algodón beige en la que con tinta y un sello de letras he estampado mi marca. Como me enrollo, por favor!!! Ahora a coser el forro...ánimo que ya no queda nada... Damos la vuelta como en la foto y colocamos el forro... Esto toca coserlo a mano alrededor de la bolsa a puntada escondida. Siempre con la cremallera abierta. Yo he probado antes de coser a darle la vuelta a ver si queda bien... Lo que me ha resultado más complicado son las esquinas pero con paciencia se termina poniendo, algún plieguecillo he tenido que hacer para que me cuadrara, pero ya os he comentado... que solo soy una simple aficionada. ...Y lo dejamos por hoy!!!! Mañana más!!! Solo quedan las asas y los adornos... Quiero que me contéis como lo vais viendo! Se aceptan sugerencias y consejos!!! Besos Mami.

This bag is easy to make using plain fabric with two bird silhouettes appliqued onto the front. Use a background fabric in a contrasting color so the

I showed the finished product to my hubby and he said, "That's cute." I hope you think so too. Project #3 Materials- 1/2 Yard each of Outer Material and Lining Thread Any embellishments Make a pattern... You can click on the picture to see the exact measurements. Cut out two outer shells, two linings, pockets (you can decide on the size and quantity of pockets), and two straps 4x22 inches. You can sew the pockets on before continuing on to the next step. Fold an edge over to the bottom. Stitch the outside edge. Once you have the corners sewn sew the edges by putting right sides together. I like to pin the corners so the seams go in opposite directions-just like you do in quilting. Here is what the side should look like once you have sewn the edges together. Sew the lining in the same way. Once you have those two things done move on to the straps. Fold the straps in half, right sides together, sew. Turn right side out and press with the seam in the middle. Sew a topstitch on the straps. This step isn't absolutely necessary-but... Look at the difference. Turn the outer layer inside out. Pin the straps into position. Before you sew the two layers together make sure you sew on any pockets you may want. Make sure when you put the lining in that the right sides of both fabrics are touching. Sew the two layers, and straps together. Be sure to leave an opening. I left my opening in between two of the straps, but I made sure to sew the straps too so they wouldn't move. Turn the purse right side out and sew another topstitch on the top edge--this is essential because it will close the opening on the top. Finished purse, just needs a little wow factor... Take some flowers from anothe project. Or use the left over lining fabric to make a new flower. Back the flower with felt. I cut two tiny holes in the felt and fed the safety pin through and sew it on to the flower. Isn't it a cute flower? I added a pocket to the lining. Every purse and bag needs at least one pocket. This would be a cute purse with some pleats too :o)

I thought it appropriate that my 1st bag tutorial be one of the 1st custom bags I ever made. What seems like a bazillion years ago, (back in the "good ol' days" of 2006-wink!) my previous boss asked me to make her a custom bag and told me how she wanted it to look...this was what I came up with for her, and she loved it! I affectionately named it the "C2" bag because her first and last name both started with the letter "C". The design is a basic "boxy" bag, so if you've ever made any form of a "boxy bag" it will be a breeze. Simply adding some cute straps with gathered ring attachments and hardware turns it into one nifty looking bag! I've made this bag for ages, I used to sell it in my Etsy Handmade shop and it was a super popular seller. I even had a repeat customer recently return after 5 years and request her 3rd one! Here is the one I recently made for her in a different fabric: I'm not very good at choosing "Sewing Levels", but if you are a beginner, this is a fun challenge to tackle. Learning how to apply hardware right out of the gate is a great way for beginners to make the run into the bag making boat! If you're an experienced sewer or have made bags before, you'll find this bag comes together in a snap! If you've never delved into adding hardware to your bags with rivets, rings and grommets, this project is a great jump into doing so! You'll need tools or attachment kits to attach and set your rivets and grommets~ so check the supply list before starting. Let's get going! Note: **This tutorial is PIC heavy! I wanted to add as many pics as possible for showing steps and details** The gorgeous fabrics I've used in this bag tutorial are from Camelot Fabrics GRAY MATTERS and GRAY MATTERS MORE fabric lines. These beautiful fabrics and others from the collection can be purchased from Hawthorne Threads Supplies: ♦ Fabric A: Your main bag fabric, strap fabric & interior pocket fronts, 1 yard ♦ Fabric B: Interior lining fabric, 1/2 yard ♦ Fabric C: Accent fabric for top band, straps and interior pocket backings, 1/2 yard ♦ Fusible Fleece, 1/2 yard (I used and recommend Heat n Bond's Extra High Loft Fusible Fleece) ♦ Extra Stiff Firm Interfacing rectangle for bag bottom (I used Bosal Craft Tex, you can use Timtex as well) and a rectangle of iron-on adhesive (such as Heat n' Bond Feather Lite), both cut to the size: 11.5 wide x 3.75" tall ♦ Woven fusible interfacing, 1/2 yard (I used and recommend Heat n Bond's Soft White Woven Fusible, you can use other brands such as Pellon SF101 or Bosal Fashion Fuse) ♦ Four - 1" or 1.25" Album Rings (these rings are typically used to bind 3 ring books and albums. Unlike "Split" rings, you can open them completely wide in the center--see the pic of them in the 'MAKE YOUR STRAPS" section of the tute) ♦ Eight- 1/4" grommets/eyelets (you will need a tool to attach these or an attachment set/hammer) ♦ Four- Rivets, size 8-9mm (you will need a tool to attach these or an attachment set/hammer) You can use either Double or Single cap rivets. I use DOUBLE cap rivets in this tute. ♦ 5/8 " Roll Stitch Witchery (If you don't know what Stitch Witchery is, see explanation in the 'MAKE YOUR STRAPS' section of the tute) ♦ 18mm Magnetic Snap Supplies/Tools Help: 1) Eyelet/Grommet Plier kit: used to set your eyelets/grommets. This plier kit can be purchased at JoAnn's/Hobby Lobby in the US or at multiple places online. 2) Large Eyelet/Grommet kit: an alternative to using the pliers to set eyelets/grommets. Can also be purchased at JoAnn's/Hobby Lobby in the US or multiple places online 3) Heat n Bond Extra High Loft Fusible Fleece: you can purchase some from my Etsy store 4) Rivet setting kit example: can be purchased from Craft Stores locally or multiple places online 5) Rivet setting kit example: can be purchased from Craft Stores locally or multiple places online 6) Craft Tex: For your bag bottoms, you can purchase this from my Etsy store 7) Suggestion: Crop-A-Dile: For hole punching This isn't required to make this bag if you have another way to punch holes through fabric, but is a quick n' easy way to do so. This can be purchased from JoAnn's/Hobby Lobby or multiple places online 8) Suggestion: Leather Hole Punch: This isn't required to make this bag if you have another way to punch small holes through fabric, but is a quick n' easy way to do so. This can be purchased from JoAnn's/Hobby Lobby or multiple places online 9) Woven Fusible Interfacing: You can purchase Heat n Bond Soft and Bosal Fashion Fuse from my Etsy store Cut your pieces • From Bag FABRIC A: -Main Bag Outside pieces: Using above pic as guide, from the FOLD of your fabric, cut a trapezoid shape as shown. Bottom will be 8 inches across, measure up 11 inches and cut a 9 inch line across the top. Match your top and bottom points up and cut a diagonal line on the side. Pics show what your shape will look like cut (still in half) and then unfolded. - Straps- cut two strips for outer straps 2.5" wide x 28" long - Inside pockets Fronts - cut two rectangles 9.5" wide x 5.5" tall •From FABRIC B: -Main Bag Interior Lining: Use your Main Bag Outside trapezoid pieces you just cut as templates and cut two interior pieces in the same trapezoid shape as your outer bag pieces. •From FABRIC C: - Straps - Cut two strips for strap accents 1.5" wide x 30" long - Bag Top Band Binding - Cut two strips 4" wide x 18.5" long - Inside Pockets Backs - Cut two rectangles 9.5" wide x 5.5" tall From your FUSIBLE FLEECE: Cut two trapezoid pieces (use your already cut pieces as a template) Cut two strips 1" wide x 24" long for your straps padding *keep a scrap piece of fusible fleece for your magnetic snap attachment From your WOVEN INTERFACING: Cut 4 trapezoid pieces (use your already cut pieces as a template) Cut 2 rectangles 9.5" wide x 5.5" tall for inside pockets interfacing Cut 2 strips 1 1/8" wide x 25" long for straps interfacing *You should already have your rectangles of Craft Tex/Timtex and iron on adhesive cut to 11.5" wide x 3.75" tall. Make your Straps As a matter of habit, I always make my bag straps 1st. Gets them out of the way! •Take your Bag Outer Strap strips and Bag Accent Strap strips and press/iron them. •Fuse the Woven Interfacing strap strips to the WRONG side of both outer straps •Fold in the ends of your outer straps 1/4" and press •Fuse your Fusible Fleece strap strips on top of your woven interfacing on the WRONG side of each strap (on top of the woven interfacing) **TIP** Interfacings/Fleece cut shorter than your strap length will keep the ends from being bulky!** •Fold in the sides of your Outer Strap Strips so that they meet and press (make sure to keep the 1/4" ends you folded and pressed still folded) •Now take your Accent Strap Strips and fold them in half long-wise so that they meet and press •Here is where you will use the Stitch Witchery! Take your Accent Strap Strip and lay it across your Outer Bag Strap Strip over the fold, centering it. Place Stitch Witchery underneath your Accent Strap piece and iron to fuse the Accent Strap into place on your Outer Strap. MAKE SURE you fuse the accent strip to the side of the strap that you folded in with the raw edges and NOT to the "smooth side". 5/8" rolls of Stitch Witchery can be purchased in the NOTIONS Section at your local sewing/craft store or from multiple places online **Strap Making TIP** I loooooves me some Stitch Witchery! Fusing your accent strap strip to your outer straps with Stitch Witchery will not only serve as a time saving basting step (no need for pins or clips!)...it will also keep your accent fabric from shifting when you topstitch it!!**** •You should have a tad of Accent Strip fabric hanging off the ends of your straps. Fold that extra accent fabric into the Outer Strap Fabric opening at the end of the strap. Once folded in, press. • Topstitch 1/8" your Accent Strap fabric all the way around your strap. • This is what your straps will look like when topstiching is finished! • Now fold the strap ends up 1" (towards back of strap) and press • Take a piece of Stitch Witchery the width of your straps and place on the back end of your straps behind the 1" you just folded up. Press well, making sure the Stitch Witchery fuses. The Stitch Witchery is 5/8" wide-MAKE SURE NOT to fuse the actual "Fold". You should have a little space where the fold meets that you can see all the way through. • SEE the little SPACE in your strap end? Good! • Punch a small centered hole (I use a Leather hole punch on the smallest hole setting) in the folded part of your strap end. **STRAP MAKING TIP!** Using Stitch Witchery on the ends of straps to fuse them saves you from having to STITCH across straps to secure them. "Strap Stitching" for the purpose of securing, can look unsightly!*** • Once your hole is punched, you will attach your rivets- Shown in the pic are DOUBLE CAP rivets. You will have the male portion of your rivet (with the pole) and the female version (back). If you purchase the rivets, purchase them with an attachment kit. It typically has the pieces shown in the first pic above. **Note: if you are using SINGLE cap rivets instead of DOUBLE cap rivets, the MALE will need to go through the back side of your strap and the FEMALE on the top. • Place the MALE part of your rivet through the hole you punched • Flip the strap over and attach the FEMALE portion of your rivet onto the back of the MALE (Good rivets will make a slight "snapping" noise when the male is attached to the female. • Place the back of the FEMALE rivet into the concave rivet base (called the ANVIL) • Take the CONCAVE rivet setter pole top and place it over the MALE rivet top. Hammer 2-3 times or until set. • Your rivet is now set! Repeat this process for the other 3 strap ends... • Once your rivet is set, open your album ring and slip it through the small opening on your strap end • For the time being, leave the album ring open • You're now done with your straps! All 4 strap ends should look like this! ***STRAP MAKING TIP*** See how wonderful the straps look without visible "stitch lines" to secure them? If your Stitch Witchery is fused well and your rivet set right, it will be plenty strong enough to hold your straps and look more professional in the process!*** *Note* There are actual rings for purse making that you can purchase that do the same thing as these Album Rings...they are called "Gate Rings"...but they are super expensive~ These album rings provide the same purpose, look great and work just as well! Construct Main Bag • Get your Main Bag Trapezoid pieces (Exterior and Interior). Fuse 1 trapezoid Woven Interfacing piece to each fabric trapezoid piece on the WRONG side of the fabric. Then take your Fusible Fleece trapezoid pieces and fuse them on top of the woven interfacing (on exterior pieces only). For now, set these 4 trapezoid pieces aside. POCKETS: •Take your pocket front and back pieces and place wrong sides together. Fuse your pocket woven interfacing piece onto your pocket front (You may want to clip the interfacing out of the corners before stitching) •Now stitch using a 1/4" seam around the pocket leaving an opening in the bottom of the pocket (approx 2-3 inch opening) •After you've sewn around you pocket, clip the corners. (*Note: I clipped out the interfacing corners before sewing around my pocket) • Reach into the opening at the bottom of your pocket and turn it right side out • On the bottom of your pocket where your opening is, fold the raw edges under 1/4" to hind them and press your pocket. • Topstitch across the top of the pocket using a 1/8" seam. Repeat this process to make your 2nd pocket. • Center your pocket on your Bag Interior lining fabric 2.5" up from the bottom (Just eyeball your centering). Topstitch the pocket to the bag lining with a 1/8" seam allowance along the sides and bottom of the pocket. Now make you middle pocket dividing line by figuring out where you want your pocket divided. On one pocket, I stitch right down the center of the pocket---on the other pocket,I stitch a little over the middle so one pocket is bigger than the other. This pocket sizing is entirely your preference. Repeat this process for the other pocket • Take your Bag Top Band Binding pieces and fold them in half lengthwise. Press. • Place your Bag Interior lining piece on your Bag Exterior piece WRONG sides together. Then, pin or clip your Bag top Band Binding piece along the top edge of your outer bag with the raw edges of the binding strip towards the top. • MAKE SURE you pin/clip your Bag Binding across the top with your lining piece and your bag exterior piece! On the lining side, stitch a 1/2" seam from the top edge. You will be stitching through a "sandwich", of which the layers are: 1) your lining piece, 2) your bag exterior and 3) your bag binding strip. •After stitching, on the RIGHT side of each bag side, fold/press the top band UP (it will now be taller than your bag top edge) This is what your outer bag piece, lining fabric and top band will look like stitched with the top band folded/pressed up. Now open up your bag exterior and lining (keeping that top band folded UP) take both your bag pieces and place them RIGHT SIDES together (see above pic) matching up the top binding bands evenly--again, making sure those bands are facing UP. This is very important! •Pin or clip in place all the way around the two pieces leaving an opening at the bottom lining pieces (leave opening approx 3-4"). Stitch all the way around using a 1/2" seam on the LINING and a 1/4" seam on the outer bag exterior. Follow the guide on the pic above. ***BAG MAKING TIP*** Sewing your interior lining with slightly larger seams will aid your bag lining into fitting and falling into your bag better*** • Time to make those boxed corners! Using a ruler, mark off a 2" square on each of the 4 corners of your bag. • Once you've marked off your squares, form the "boxes". To do this, pull the corners out, matching the side seams (do this by peeking on the INSIDE of your bag). Please, please, please MATCH your seams! I see boxed bags all the time whose seams don't match! Taking just a minute to match your seams makes the bottom of your bag look so much better! Match seams on all 4 corners, pulling your squares out. When you match your seams, the lines you drew for your square should meet up making a nice straight line. • This is what your outer bag corners will look like with seams matched--clip in place • This is what your inner bag corners will look like with seams matched--clip in place • For the OUTER bag corners, stitch straight across the line. For the INNER (lining) bag corners, stitch JUST ABOVE the line (about 1/4" above) ***BAG MAKING TIP*** Just like you did with your lining seams, sewing the boxed corners of your lining with slightly larger seams will aid your bag lining into fitting and falling into your bag better*** • Trim all four of your bag corners about 1/4" away from the stitch lines • Trim the Bag Top Binding off the sides of your bag to about 1/4" • Reach inside the opening in the bag lining and grab your outer bag pulling it through the opening to turn it right side out • This is what your bag will now look like. • This is why we can't forget the small details during bag making...You can now see how important it was to match up your side seams where your top band is. It should match up and be nice and straight as shown! Now, push your lining down into your bag. • Fold over the top band into the inside lining. Pin or clip this fold down • Continue pinning/clipping the fold over of the top band all the way around. • Your top band should now be folded over into the lining side of your bag. Here is a pic of what it looks like from the outside. Guess what? It's time for Stitch Witchery again! • Lay your bag down on one of it's long sides. Pull off some of your clips/pins and put a strip of Stitch Witchery in between your bag lining and the top band that you folded over (see pics) Pull the top band down over the Stitch Witchery and iron to fuse • Continue this process around the entire perimeter of the top band~ removing the pins/clips as you go. The corners where the side seams meet may be a tad tricky~ just tug your lining fabric down smooth underneath. • Make sure that your iron is hot so that it fuses well. You may need to use your other hand after inserting the Stitch Witchery to hold down the top band until you can get the iron over it to fuse--BE CAREFUL of your fingers if you're using steam! • Fuse well! Once you get around the entire perimeter, re-iron the top band again to ensure fusing *Note* You can topstitch around this top band if you want to, or like the look of the topstitching around the band-although it's not necessary because the Stitch Witchery will hold just fine. Once your top band is fused down with the Stitch Witchery, you'll need to mark where your grommets will be placed. Mark in 3" and again at 5.5" from the side seam of your bag. • Know your grommet sides! On the left side of pic is MALE grommet, on the right side is FEMALE grommet. • Now punch a hole where your markings were made. (at 3" and 5.5" in from side seam) Punch the hole so that your hole is made with half the hole in the top band and the other half into the main bag fabric (see pic!) I use a CROP-A-DILE hole punch from 'We r Memory Keepers' on the 3/16" hole setting. This is a scrapbooking tool, but I've used it for years--it makes great grommet sized holes through multiple layers of fabrics easily. • Clip your grommet hole every so slightly • Place your MALE grommet inside this hole, then apply the female grommet to the other side. Use your grommet tool to press down/squeeze on the grommet to attach it. If you don't have a tool, you can still apply these grommets with a grommet attachment kit (sold at both JoAnn's and Hobby Lobby) just follow the manufacturers instructions of your grommet attachment kit Repeat this process until all 8 grommets are applied. When all 8 of your grommets are attached, it's time to make the markings for your magnetic snap. Use the magnetic snap back facing for placement. Center by measuring in approximately 3" from the grommets closest to the center Mark on your fabric inside the openings of the magnetic snap facing to show where the button will go. REPEAT this process on the other side of the bag •Take your scraps of fusible fleece and cut them just a tad larger than your magnetic snap backings. Mark inside the slits onto the non fusible side of the fusible fleece. • Using a sharp pair of scissors, clip the slits you marked. • Go back into your purse lining and clip the slits you marked on the lining front/back BE CAREFUL not to clip your outer bag! Pull the lining away from the outer bag before clipping. If you have some FRAY CHECK, apply it to each of the slits you just clipped on your bag lining. This will help keep your slits from fraying when you use and pull on your magnetic snap. • Place the magnetic snap through the slits. Then looking into the inside of the bag, (see pic), place the magnetic snap facing on top of the slits and push the side prongs down toward the snap's center. Repeat this process for the other half of the magnetic snap on the other side of the bag lining. We're in the home stretch now! • Time to put in your bag bottom • Take your 11.5" x 3.75" rectangle of Craft Tex or Timtex and apply your iron on adhesive to one side. Let it cool for a minute and remove the paper backing from the adhesive. • Place your Craft Tex/Timtex piece into the bottom of your bag, adhesive/fusible side down. Ironing this on can be tricky! I use a hand towel, stick it in the bag, turn it upside down and press/iron the bottom of the bag. This will activate the adhesive and fuse your Craft Tex rectangle to the bottom of your bag creating a base. • When your bag bottom is in, close the opening in your bag lining. Pin or clip closed (folding in the raw edges) and stitch with a 1/8" seam allowance. Once the opening is stitched, push your lining back down into your bag. Last but not least, attach your straps! Take an open album rings from one of your straps and feed it through your grommet holes, gathering together your bag in the process--then simply close your album rings. Repeat for all 4 straps.....annnnnnd you are DONE-ZERS! Woot! You now have a super cute new bag! Here are more views! The possibilities are endless! Play with design! Here are others I've made using two fabrics in a split fabric design using cotton and corduroy: Here's the split fabric design again, in an enlarged size to make a tote bag! Have fun! If you make one and would like to share/show yours off, please feel free to post your pic on my FB page or send it to me in an email! I'd love to see! Happy Sewing! Hypernoodle♥

Small Sling Bag aka Passport Purse in Elephant Caravan. Adorable elephant pattern with tone on tone one paisley background. Light gray with black. More of same fabric on back. Solid black twill accent on front, only. Black strap, zippers and lining. -- View this item in other fabrics: http://etsy.me/1vx8cIy View all items in this fabric: http://etsy.me/17UddSe Visit our store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/janinekingdesigns Ready-To-Ship: http://etsy.me/17TtWoN -- Awesome little everyday purse that’s perfect for travel too. It's the ideal size when you want to carry the essentials. Small but not too small. The extra zipper compartment in front is perfect for cell phone, iPod, camera and/or passport when traveling. Main compartment easily accommodates wallet and checkbook. Nice long adjustable shoulder strap allows you to wear it across , which is a great look that's comfortable and convenient. Crafted with high quality decorator fabrics and heavy durable lining fabric. A fabulous gift to yourself or someone special that will be used and appreciated. SPECS/ FEATURES / CARE * Dimensions approx 9” x 7” * Extra zip compartment in front extends to bottom of bag and is approx 7" by 7". * Secure zipper closures. * Sturdy nylon web shoulder strap adjusts from 24" to 56" to accommodate virtually all body types. * Nickel/silver hardware and zipper pulls * All stress points are triple stitched and reinforced for durability. * Bag is fully lined but not padded. * Lining fabric is water repellent industrial grade twill. * We primarily use upholstery fabrics which are pre-treated to repel moisture and soiling. * Care Instructions: Spot clean with damp cloth. Dry clean for best results. * Handmade with Pride in the USA in our pet free and smoke free design studios. ★ THIS ITEM IS READY-TO-SHIP (RTS) ★ 2 0 % __ O F F __ A M A N D A __ K I N G __ E A R R I N G S : https://www.etsy.com/shop/AmandaKingDesigns?coupon=ARTSYFAMILY20

Shop for Bag & Purse Patterns Serendipity Hip Bag Sewing Pattern by LTS April 20, 2023 The Parisian Street Purse Tote Sewing Pattern by LTS December 9, 2020 The Somerset Bag Pattern by LTS November

I showed the finished product to my hubby and he said, "That's cute." I hope you think so too. Project #3 Materials- 1/2 Yard each of Outer Material and Lining Thread Any embellishments Make a pattern... You can click on the picture to see the exact measurements. Cut out two outer shells, two linings, pockets (you can decide on the size and quantity of pockets), and two straps 4x22 inches. You can sew the pockets on before continuing on to the next step. Fold an edge over to the bottom. Stitch the outside edge. Once you have the corners sewn sew the edges by putting right sides together. I like to pin the corners so the seams go in opposite directions-just like you do in quilting. Here is what the side should look like once you have sewn the edges together. Sew the lining in the same way. Once you have those two things done move on to the straps. Fold the straps in half, right sides together, sew. Turn right side out and press with the seam in the middle. Sew a topstitch on the straps. This step isn't absolutely necessary-but... Look at the difference. Turn the outer layer inside out. Pin the straps into position. Before you sew the two layers together make sure you sew on any pockets you may want. Make sure when you put the lining in that the right sides of both fabrics are touching. Sew the two layers, and straps together. Be sure to leave an opening. I left my opening in between two of the straps, but I made sure to sew the straps too so they wouldn't move. Turn the purse right side out and sew another topstitch on the top edge--this is essential because it will close the opening on the top. Finished purse, just needs a little wow factor... Take some flowers from anothe project. Or use the left over lining fabric to make a new flower. Back the flower with felt. I cut two tiny holes in the felt and fed the safety pin through and sew it on to the flower. Isn't it a cute flower? I added a pocket to the lining. Every purse and bag needs at least one pocket. This would be a cute purse with some pleats too :o)

in my Etsy

Rapido y sencillo tutorial para hacer una funda para los pañuelos de papel by funkypatch.

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This is essentially the same as my Reversible Library Bag, but I've added a spot for a library card and pencils - making it not reversible. But you don't have to add the pocket so that it can be reversible! This bag is also smaller than the adult one. Please refer to the tutorial here if you need more pictures - it has step by step pictures. The only ones in this tutorial are of additions to the bag. Now, let's get started! What you'll need: 1 fabric strip for the contrast strip on the front, 5" x 12" 1 fabric strip for the left front, 4.5" x 12" 1 fabric strip for the right front, 8" x 12" 1 piece of fabric for the back, 16.5" x 12" 2 pieces of fabric for the lining, each 16.5" x 12" 4 pieces of fabric for the straps, each 1" x 18" 4 pieces of fusible interfacing for the straps, each 1" x 18" (optional) 1 piece of fabric for pocket, 5" x 8" If you don't want to have a contrast strip, just replace the contrast strip, and the left and right front pieces with a front panel measured at 16.5" x 12". Here's how: Iron your fabric and cut out all pieces. Place your contrast strip and left front piece right sides together and sew. Press the seam open. Place your right front piece right sides together with the contrast strip and sew together. Press seam open. Place your bag front right sides together with the bag back. Sew together along the SIDES and BOTTOM. Not the top! Creating the gussets: Fold the bag so the side seams are centered on the top and bottom (on top of each other). This will make a point at the bottom of the bag. Measure 2" from the tip of the point and cut off in a straight line. Pin each flap. Sew each corner, separately. Onto the inside of the bag, the lining: The pocket will go on the lining piece. First, fold over 1/4" of fabric on all four sides and press. How I folded the corners: Before sewing it on the lining, sew a straight line across the top of the pocket, so it looks finished and keeps the fabric folded. You want to do this first so it's not attached to the lining. Place it where you want it to be on the lining and sew down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side. Do not sew the top. Then measure 1 1/2" over and sew down once and again another 1 1/2" over from that spot. This is for the pencils! Place the two lining pieces right sides together and sew along the sides and bottom, just as you did the outside of the bag. Now create the gussets just as you did for the outside of the bag - Side seams together, make a point, measure 2" up and cut a straight line. Pin and sew each flap. Straps: Fold each strap lengthwise wrong sides together and press. Open the fold. Place interfacing above crease. Fold fabric over interfacing and press. Place another interfacing strip below the crease and do the same for the bottom half of the fabric. Fold strap in half at the crease and press. Sew strap along the folded edge and along the open edge to close it up. Repeat on opposite strap. Pin one strap to the front of the bag, each end 3 1/2" from the sides. The bag is outside out now! The strap will lay on the outside of the bag once sewn on, until the lining is in. Sew in place. Repeat on the back side of the bag with other strap. Make sure you don't catch the other side of the bag when sewing the strap on. Insert the outside bag into the lining, with the right sides touching. The straps go inside, too. Line up the side seams and pin in place. Sew together, leaving a 3" section open on the back. Flip it right side out now, through the opening you just left. Tuck the lining to the inside of the bag. Press, tucking the raw edges of your open stitch to the inside of the bag. Edge stitch around the top of the bag to close up the opening and give it a nice finished look. Make sure the straps stay out of the way when you top stitch.

I've been working on many pouches lately and I thought it would be fun to write a tutorial for one of them. A few days ago I needed a ...

I'm posting today as a part of Clover & Violet's Summertime Sewing Adventures Series . I'm really excited to be a part of this series! ...

Our MQG met for literally sewing together a bag, the SEW TOGETHER BAG from SewDemented (pattern available at craftsy). Of course I would sew this bag with my new upcoming line REEL TIME, expected to be in stores in April. I was so eager to make that bag, that I had already cut all pieces days ahead and on Sunday morning I packed my car (including heaving the heavy machine into the car, preparing lunch and so on). Started by worrying about the snow falling densely, but still hoping I can make it on the street. At this point I have to admit that my car don’t have the legally prescribed winter tires (I use the car only randomly and can go for groceries by feet, in case it’s snowy). But just that day I was not able to get a bus on Sunday morning to bring my machine, may iron and all my sewing supplies to the house where our meeting was ;-( Slippery road conditions forced me not to drive any further and to turn back to my home. But hey – we live in a world of tele-communication: I sewed at home and exchanged pictures with my group back and force via What’s app. So fun! And here is my bag, some pics of the process: This little red clips are really helpful when “pinning” stiff and fused fabrics together. The finished bag is a birthday present for my daughter, who is a passionate artist, drawing with pencils. As a biological scientist she draws amazing illustrations of all kinds of research objects. The bag’s outside is pieced together from a Mini-Charm Pack of REEL TIME and the inside is filled with all kind of specialty drawing pencils, rubber gums and so on. And as a little fun accessory the zipper got a miniature model figure ;-) Can you spot what the binding fabric is saying? There’s written: GIVE ME A KISS I LOVE YOU. This happened coincidentally, but: hey, the words couldn’t have chosen better! The inside with graphite lining in the pockets

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I don't have an iPhone or an iPod, but I just had to try out this new FREE pattern for a pouch! It is easy and I can not remember where I got it from. I hope whomever designed it will forgive me, I do NOT take any credit for this design. This is a super simple pouch. You will need 5 - 5x7 pieces of fabric. Two for the outside, 2 for the lining and one for the pocket. You will also need a 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 square for the ring. That's it! You will need 2 - 5x7 pieces of fusible interfacing for the lining, 1 - 2 1/2 x 3 1/2 piece of fusible for the pocket and batting for the front pieces. If you'd rather use fusible batting, knock yourself out! If you don't want to quilt your pouch, by all means....don't! First, fuse the interfacing to each piece of the 5x7 pieces. Lay the 2 front pieces RST and the 2 lining pieces RST. Round the upper right hand corner. I used a 6" saucer. 3% curve is what you're looking for. Fold your pocket with 5"side together and sew around 3 sides leaving an opening for turning. Turn, press and attach to the right side of one of the lining pieces. Line up your 9" zipper, wrong side to the right side of the lining with the pull 3/4" up from the lower right hand corner. Pin and baste with a scant 1/4" seam. Lay the front piece over the zipper with the right side down, pin and sew. Turn with wrong sides together and top stitch close to the seam. Repeat for the second side. Open up and pin all of the raw edges together. Front pieces RST, lining pieces RST. Using a 1/2" seam allowance, start at one end of the zipper and sew all the way around the bag, leaving a 3" opening for turning in the lining. Trim the seam allowances. Turn through opening. Carefully push out all 4 corners. Now, sew either by hand or machine to close the opening. Ta-da!! You now have a great pouch for your iPhone/iPod or sunglasses or whatever! The pocket is great for earbuds or ID. This simple pouch could be made a lot bigger or smaller, depending on your specific need. I hope that these instructions were helpful. I know that I will be making more of these. I'm soooo excited, I just found where I found this pattern!! It is at Sew Can She!! Make sure to check out all of the wonderful, fun patterns on this web site or on Craftsy! Linking to: Let's Bee Social! at Sew Fresh Quilts. Threading Your Way! at Threading My Way.

For those of you who read my post yesterday, I think it paid off. I shared a list in photos of some unfinished projects and it prompted me to get one done! My "In the Kitchen ~ Creamer and Sugar Bowl" Pattern is complete! It is the perfect companion to the "Strawberries in a Bowl" Pattern! I use some of my favorite fabrics for this block. The aqua creamer print is from Moda's Glamping. The plaid is an older print from my stash. The body of the sugar bowl is from Alexander Henry's Farmdale and the fussy cut "France 1952" text print is from Suzuko Koseki. The tablecloth fabric is an older print from Windham - "Country Lane". On a family note, my youngest celebrated his 6th birthday on Thursday. He is growing up so fast. Even his presents were more grown up! Less toys this year.......and he got a Kindle - I don't even have one!! : ) xo Charise

A while back, my mom asked me if I would make a purse/bag for her to include in a gift basket for a raffle at her golf club. I happily agreed. Mom said the theme of her basket was "Fifty Shades of Pink and Grey." She had great ideas of...

Idag deltok jeg på julemessen på min arbeidsplass ved Universitetet i Tromsø. På morgenen sydde jeg ferdig tre toalettmapper med sykepleiermotiv i fronten. De var veldig populære og ble solgt med en gang. Etterhvert gikk det unna med både grytekluter, løpere, rundpinneetui, sminkepunger, kuvertbrikker, vesker og julestrømper. Pappa lager "stoppere" til å samle strikkepinnene slik at maskene ikke glir av når man frakter strikketøyet med seg. De var veldig populære. Nå er det bare å starte planlegging til neste års messe. Today I had a stall at my working place, The University of Tromsø. In the morning I finished three toiletry bags with nurses in front. They were very popular and sold out early. I'm very satisfied with my result and sold a lot of makeup-purses, runners, placemats, small bags, Christmas-stockings and potholders. Now I have to start planning what to sew for next year.

Shop for Bag & Purse Patterns Serendipity Hip Bag Sewing Pattern by LTS April 20, 2023 The Parisian Street Purse Tote Sewing Pattern by LTS December 9, 2020 The Somerset Bag Pattern by LTS November

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4 Bag Clasp Tutorials. Adding purse locks is so fun and easy and gives your bag or wallet that extra bling and style. Pin my tutorials for later! Janelle

Just in time for back-to-school or holiday projects, we've assembled a collection of free sewing patterns for bags. Our previous post focuse...

Continua la settimana dedicata ai set e agli aggiornamenti del mio negozio online. Come promesso oggi una piccola carrellata di colori p...

Bolsa Patchwork PAP

amit senki sem szeret bevarrni, én sem. De, mivel néha szükségeltetik, csak megcsináljuk. Sokféle módja van, géppel gyorsabb.Viszont nem mindenhova lehet szépen géppel belevarrni. Az ilyen tipusú neszesszerekbe kézzel szoktam a húzózárat bevarrni. Tudom , lassan kivétel leszek, mert legtöbben a gépi varrásra esküsznek. Nem vagyunk egyformák, az én véleményem szerint így a legszebb és ráadásul mutatós is. A Lépésről-Lépésre alatt a videóját is megnézhetitek és ha kedvet kaptok......

Seems like these days I'm making a lot of secret projects that I'm testing and can't show until the patterns are released. I just finished another today so in order to keep you checking in on me and not running away I stopped my testing for a couple of days and made these cute wallets and fabric baskets. This has got to be one of the simplest and quickest wallet tutorials I've come across, ever. The pattern is by Noodlehead and is a free tutorial for a boys wallet. I don't really have the need to make boys wallets so made mine in girly floral fabrics. I chose four different floral fabrics for the outside of the wallet and three different pinks for the inside. My leaning Tower of Pisa. There's a slip pocket for cash and four card slots. I also made seven fabric baskets that I originally saw on my friend Lorena's blog. And if I didn't have enough on my plate, in between making all these, my son came home with a tiny puppy he found wandering around lost in the middle of the street. He put him in the car and by the time he got home the puppy was fast asleep on the floor with it's head under the front seat. I found a box for him and put in an old sheet, took him out of the car carefully and placed him in the box. It was pretty hot and humid that night so he was happier sleeping on the cool stone floor. He woke, obviously very hungry and not knowing much about dogs got in touch with my friend Toby who has loads of dogs plus she's on a dog group. I gave her the details and was told to feed him rice and chicken. By now it was midnight so I gave him some digestive biscuits crushed with some milk. That wasn't a good idea becasue it went straight through him and when I woke in the morning after only three hours sleep he'd pooped all over the place. I cooked him his chicken and rice broth which he loved and couldn't get enough of and then took him to the vet. We had managed to find him a good home on a farm with another dog and a rabbit LOLL. My son had always wanted a dog and was hoping we'd keep this one but after one sleepless night and a load of poop everywhere I think he was more than happy to give him away. It took me most of the morning to clean his mess up outside and was left exhausted by lack of sleep and worry for this helpless little thing and after I'd had a good two hours sleep I managed to get back to my sewing. I swear that looking after a puppy is harder than looking after a baby. One last thing before I go, becasue of so much spam on my blog coming into my email I have changed the comments setting on my blog to 'Registered User includes openID'. I'm sorry if this causes problems for you leaving a comment but I don't want to put my blog on moderation unless it's absolutely necessary. After a while I'll put it back to how it was and see if the Anonymous comments stop coming in. Thanks for stopping by. ~ Maria ~

A blog featuring modern sewing projects and photography.

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Earlier this week I introduced you to my upcoming e-pattern, The Diane Tote. It was made using the new Fantasia fabric line from Sara Lawson for Art Gallery Fabrics. What I didn’t mention was that I h

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