This cake has a miraculous texture — almost like a super-aerated fluffy pancake — and a delicate flavour; it is scented with lemon rather than tingling with it. And even though there is coconut milk in the cake, this comes through as sweetness rather than tropical exuberance. For all that it is a tripartite affair, it is ridiculously easy to make: the perfect pudding when friends come round for supper. And did I mention that it is vegan? Don’t shake the tin of coconut milk, as it’s best to get as much of the thick creamy part as possible. However, please don’t worry too much about it: the better-quality cans of coconut milk tend to be thicker anyway. But you are not allowed even to think about using light coconut milk. For US cup measures, use the toggle at the top of the ingredients list.